DE10131796A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing cardiolipin, useful e.g. for treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and treatment of inflammatory conditions such as eczema or psoriasis - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of cardiolipin (I) is claimed in cosmetic or dermatological preparations (A) for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and/or the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of negative abnormalities in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin. An Independent claim is also included for cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing (I).

Description

The present invention relates to the use of cardiolipin in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis before and treatment of degenerative Skin symptoms such as wrinkles and fine lines, skin and Sagging tissues, skin regeneration disorders, skin circulatory disorders, sensitive skin, itching, sensitivity to stress and changes in DNA synthesis and / or skin DNA repair performance.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a effective content of cardiolipin z. B. to protect against harmful oxidation processes in the skin.

Cosmetic skin care means primarily that the natural Function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances may increase Substances or for infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to reduce the fat and fat caused by daily washing Compensate for skin water loss. This is especially important when the natural Regeneration capacity is not sufficient. In addition, skin care products are said to exist Protect environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and skin aging delay.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis" such as:

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• a) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Produkte zur Pflege sensibler, juckender und/oder trockener Haut bzw. Produkte zur Behandlung von oder Prophylaxe vor DNS-Schädigungen sowie Produkte, welche beispielsweise die chronologische Hautalterung verlangsamen sollen, sind an sich bekannt. Allerdings ist deren Wirksamkeit begrenzt. Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. to the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin:

• a) Increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

Products for the care of sensitive, itchy and / or dry skin or products for the treatment of or prophylaxis against DNA damage as well as products which are intended, for example, to slow the chronological aging of the skin, are known per se. However, their effectiveness is limited.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their respective wavelength, the rays have different effects on the organ skin: the so-called UV-C radiation with a Wavelength that is less than 290 nm is from the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere absorbed and therefore has no physiological meaning. Against cause Rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range Erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe Burns. As a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight, the narrower Range around 308 nm specified.

To protect against UV-B radiation, numerous compounds are known in which it are, for example, derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and s-triazine.

It has long been erroneously assumed that the boring UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible one has biological effects. However, numerous studies have now shown that UV-A radiation with a view to triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic Reactions and chronic changes in the skin are far more dangerous than UV-B Radiation is. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation from UV-A Radiation to be amplified.

So it is u. a. proved that even the UV-A radiation under normal Everyday conditions are sufficient to quickly reduce the collagen and elastin fibers damage that are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-related skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin is part of it for example folds and wrinkles as well as an irregular, furrowed relief. Further the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can become irregular Have pigmentation. Even the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even Carcinoma or malignant melanoma is possible. One through everyday UV exposure prematurely aged skin is also characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A Rays. While the UV-B radiation is strong depending on numerous factors varies (e.g. time of year and day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains Relative to day and day or geographic factors day by day constant. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living Epidermis, while about 70% of UV-B rays come from the horny layer be held back.

It is therefore of fundamental importance that cosmetic and dermatological Light protection preparations against both UV-B and UV-A radiation provide adequate protection.

UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the intervene photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism. Furthermore counts UV radiation for ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that even ionic Species with UV exposure arise, which in turn then oxidatively in the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

It is also known that in human and animal skin unwanted oxidation processes can occur. In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury "in" Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", pp. 323ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), such oxidative damage to the skin and its nearer Causes listed.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against spoilage preparations containing them are used. However, antioxidants and / or Radical scavengers also used in cosmetic or dermatological formulations in order to remedy or prevent oxidation reactions.

It is already in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as in numerous other documents have suggested vitamin E - a substance with known antioxidant effect in light protection formulations - to be used, but still remains here the effect achieved far behind the hoped for.

An object of the present invention was therefore to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art Avoid technology and especially the damage caused by environmental pollution permanently, sustainably and without eliminating the risk of side effects or them submissions.

Another object of the invention was cosmetic, dermatological and to create active pharmaceutical ingredients and preparations and light protection formulations for Prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, especially of Serve photodermatoses, preferably polymorphic light dermatosis.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca- Acne and a variety of other terms as used in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al. Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, p. 2), are specified.

It has surprisingly been found that the Use of cardiolipin in cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of degenerative Skin symptoms, sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.

Cardiolipin is a diphosphatidylglycerin found in mitochondrial membranes, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Invention 0.0005 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 up to 5% by weight of cardiolipin, in each case based on the total composition of the Preparations.

• - Veränderungen der normalen Lipidperoxidation,
• - defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zuständen von Hautanhangsgebilden,
• - entzündlichen Hautzuständen,
• - atopischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo
• - empfindlicher, juckender oder gereizter Haut,
• - Veränderung des Ceramid-, Lipid- und Energiestoffwechsels der gesunden Haut,
• - Veränderung des physiologischen transepidermalen Wasserverlustes,
• - Verminderung der Hauthydratation und Abnahme des Feuchtigkeitsgehaltes der Haut,
• - Veränderung des Natural Moisturizing Factor Gehaltes,
• - Verminderung der Zell-Zell-Kommunikation,
• - Mangelerscheinungen der intrazellulären DNS-Synthese,
• - DNS-Schädigungen und Verminderung von endogenen DNS-Reparaturmechanismen,
• - Aktivierung von Metalloproteinasen und/oder anderer Proteasen bzw. Inhibierung der entsprechenden endogenen Inhibitoren dieser Enzyme,
• - Abweichungen von den normalen post-translationalen Modifikationen von Bindegewebsbestandteilen,
• - Veränderungen des normalen Hyaluronsäure- und Glycosaminoglycangehaltes der gesunden Haut,
• - Schuppenbildung der Haare,
• - Hautbrüchigkeit und Hautermüdung,
• - Erhöhung der normalen Keratinozytenproliferation,
• - Verminderung der natürlichen Regeneration und Struktur der Haare,
• - umweltbedingten (durch Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspezies, freie Radikale verursachten) negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde möglich.

When using the active ingredient used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of

• Changes in normal lipid peroxidation,
• - deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficit, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages,
• - inflammatory skin conditions,
• - atopic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo
• - sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,
• Change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin,
• - change in physiological transepidermal water loss,
• Reduction in skin hydration and decrease in the moisture content of the skin,
• - change in natural moisturizing factor content,
• - reduction in cell-cell communication,
• Deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis,
• - DNA damage and reduction of endogenous DNA repair mechanisms,
• Activation of metalloproteinases and / or other proteases or inhibition of the corresponding endogenous inhibitors of these enzymes,
• - deviations from the normal post-translational modifications of connective tissue components,
• Changes in the normal hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycan content of healthy skin,
• - scaling of the hair,
• - skin fragility and fatigue,
• Increased normal keratinocyte proliferation,
• - reduction of the natural regeneration and structure of the hair,
• - Environmental (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) negative changes in the skin and the skin appendages possible.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention that according to the invention used active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions - such as for example wrinkles and / or fine lines, skin and tissue sagging, Circulatory disorders of the skin, sensitive skin, itching, sensitivity to stress, inflammatory Skin conditions (atopic eczema, psoriasis etc.) and the like - to use.

The invention therefore also relates to
cosmetic or dermatological preparations with an effective content of cardiolipin.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into usual cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which come in different forms can be present. The preparations within the meaning of the present invention can preferably in addition to one or more oil phases (in which the cardiolipin preferably is incorporated) additionally contain one or more water phases and for example in the form of W / O, O / W, multiple (W / O / W, O / W / O) emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also be a microemulsion, a solid Emulsions (i.e. an emulsion that is stabilized by solids, e.g. Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion, a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion his.

Furthermore, the active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be placed in a solution Gel, a solid stick or an aerosol can be incorporated.

The emulsions according to the invention are preferably O / W emulsions.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when added or other active ingredients antioxidants are used. According to the Preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications of suitable or customary antioxidants be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines Homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfone oximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives , Butylhydroxytoluene, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. Selenomethionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble ones can be particularly advantageous Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, the respective concentrations of which range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the antioxidants are advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

According to the invention, further active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap vitamin B1, vitamin B12, vitamin D1, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F), especially the gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to use the other active ingredients from the group of refatting agents Choose substances such as Purcellin oil, Euceri® and Neocerit®.

The further active ingredient (s) are also particularly advantageously selected from the Group of NO synthase inhibitors, especially if the invention Preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are said to serve.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The further active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group which catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic Extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or Bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of Plant family Theaceae, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or Catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins are to be understood and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular, are also advantageous Green tea extracts such as B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., Especially the types of tea Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred further active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - Catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - galiocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavone and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are also advantageous further active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:


where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, this or that is particularly advantageous Flavone glycosides to be selected from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin (Aurantün, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, Hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, Quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutablon, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy- 3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomareïn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to use the other active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and to choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula


and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain or as the number of C atoms U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula


on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred further active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, Creatine ascorbate and that on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols esterified derivatives.

Another advantageous further active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula


where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcamitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both enantiomers (D and L form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

It can also be advantageous to use any enantiomer mixtures, for example a Racemate made of D- and L-shape.

Further advantageous further active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and Flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Preparations according to the invention can be used in combination with cardiolipin of course, not to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination can be used.

The content of these active ingredients (one or more compounds) is advantageously determined from the Range selected from 0.0001 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

It is also advantageous, although of course not mandatory, to inject the cardiolipin to present encapsulated form, e.g. B. in collagen matrices and other usual Encapsulation materials, e.g. B. as cellulose encapsulations, in gelatin, wax matrices or encapsulated liposomally. In particular weighing matrices such as those in DE-OS 43 08 282 have been found to be favorable. Particularly advantageous Encapsulation forms in the sense of the present invention are furthermore Cardiolipin cyclodextrin complexes.

It may also be advantageous to use the active ingredient according to the invention, for. B. as so-called solid lipid nanoparts with the help of melted wax to encapsulate the under other, but not exclusively, can be selected from the group of Ester waxes, triglyceride waxes or hydrocarbon waxes. It can also be beneficial be to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention in polymers, for. B. in particles Basis of highly cross-linked polymethacrylates and / or cellulose triacetates and / or as Core / shell particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, Polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the Active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the invention The active ingredient used is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the Active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention the affected skin is applied.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, Oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more Emulsifiers commonly used for such a type of formulation become.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention that Active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for Insert cleaning of the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, Insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding formulation requirements apply medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. The For the sake of simplicity, it becomes a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the legal Regulations of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (e.g. Cosmetics Ordinance, Food and Drugs Act).

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient used according to the invention as Add an additive to preparations that already have other active ingredients for other purposes contain.

Cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can accordingly used in the sense of the present invention, depending on its structure, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, daily or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous that Compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical Use wording.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against Sunlight is, but still contain UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well Antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the Preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological are also favorable Preparations in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain within the meaning of the present invention preferably in addition to one or more active ingredients used according to the invention additionally at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The Formulations can, although not necessary, possibly also one or more contain organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which in the Water and / or the oil phase can be present.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be superficial treated ("coated"), for example an amphiphilic or hydrophobic Character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer.

According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO ₂ pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicon), a mixture of fully methylated, linear Siloxane polymers that are terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units. Particularly advantageous in For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxide pigments are produced in this way be coated.

It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture from dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which also as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments additionally with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2) are coated. Titanium dioxides which are particularly advantageous Simethicone and Alumina are coated, the coating also water may contain. An example of this is that under the trade name Eusolex T2000 at Titanium dioxide available from Merck.

This is an advantageous organic pigment in the sense of the present invention 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: Bisoctyltriazole], which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA chemicals GmbH is available.

Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which emit UV radiation Absorb UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of Filter substances e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 is up to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or skin before protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a Sunscreen for hair or skin.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, Potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially that Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Bisimidazylate, which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Haarmann & Reimer is available.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its Salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially that corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is called.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example Bisresorcinyltriazine derivatives. These are particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is listed under the Commercial name Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g. 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)] , Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl ) -Benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3, 5-triazine, individually or in any combination with one another. Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3 V.

A symmetrically substituted s- is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Triazine, that 4,4 ', 4' '- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150 is sold.

European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {(4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4- Bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 '' - methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and that 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2 '' - methylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the Trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2Hbenzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS -No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is the ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 is available.

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to use further UV-A and / or incorporate UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which Absorb radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to provide cosmetic preparations that the hair or skin before protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a Sunscreen for hair or skin.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as usually in such preparations are used, e.g. B. antioxidants, preservatives, Bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, Pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, Emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

• - Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C- Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. at alcohol can be another component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageously selected from the group of the esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols Chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n- Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyipalmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the saturated and / or triglycerol esters unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, Almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention. It can also be advantageous if necessary be waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred besides the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also beneficial in the sense to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and are also particularly advantageous Isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, also alcohols low C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which are advantageously chosen can from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their Derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, especially advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Gels used according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or one above named oil in the presence of a thickener, which is used in oily alcoholic gels preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pens contain e.g. B. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or Fatty acid ester.

Common raw materials, which are intended for use as cosmetic pencils in the sense of suitable in the present invention are liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, Isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. Beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax).

As a propellant for cosmetic and / or sprayable from aerosol containers Dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention are the usual known ones volatile, liquefied propellants, e.g. hydrocarbons (propane, Butane, isobutane) are suitable, which are used alone or in a mixture with one another can. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se that basically for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable, but nevertheless because of harmful effects on the environment or other circumstances should be avoided, in particular Fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be used as gels are present in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic Thickeners, e.g. B. gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, Cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic Thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of Polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The Thickener is in the gel e.g. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferred between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention: Examples 1. PIT emulsions



2. Examples of O / W creams





3. Examples of W / O emulsions





4. Examples of hydrodispersions



5th example (gel cream) Mass content (%) Acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.40 Crosspolymer Carbomer 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.10 Cetearyl alcohol 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.00 Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 3.00 cyclomethicones 5.00 dimeticones 1.00 cardiolipin 0.20 glycerin 3.00 sodium hydroxide qs preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.0 pH adjusted to 6.0 Lameform TGI 3.50 glycerin 3.00 Dehymuls PGPH 3.50 cardiolipin 0.50 preservative qs Perfume qs Water, demin. ad 100.0 magnesium sulfate 0.6 isopropyl 2.0 Caprylyl ether 8.0 cetearyl 6.0 Mass content (%) glyceryl stearate 3.00 PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl 2.00 Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 8.00 octyldodecanol 5.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 3.00 cardiolipin 1.00 Magnesium sulfate (MgSO ₄ ) 0.80 EDTA 0.10 preservation qs Perfume qs Water, demineralized ad 100.0 pH adjusted to 6.0

Claims (8)

1. Use of cardiolipin in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of degenerative skin symptoms, sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin. 2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the degenerative skin symptoms represent one or more appearances from the following group: - wrinkles and / or fine lines, - sagging skin and / or tissue, - Disorders of skin regeneration and skin appendages - circulatory disorders of the skin, - sensible skin, - itching, - skin sensitivity to stress, - inflammatory and sensitive skin conditions - dry skin conditions - atopic eczema - psoriasis. 3. Use according to claim 1, wherein the skin changes relate to one or more appearances from the following group: - degenerative symptoms of the skin (sagging skin, loss of elasticity, age spots, telangiectasias, disturbance of the osmolytic balance, the natural skin pH value and loss of epidermal and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the reticles and capillary vessels of the skin) and / or the appendages of the skin, - environmental (caused by smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals and the like) negative changes in the skin and appendages, - deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages (sebum and sweat glands), - reduced skin thickness, - sagging and tired skin, Disorders of normal skin pH and osmolytic balance, - pigmentation disorders, - itching, - horny layer barrier disorders, Changes in the transepidermal water loss and the normal moisture content of the skin, Changes in normal lipid peroxidation, Change in the ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin, - hair loss, for improved hair growth and / or in the event of disorders in the structure of hair, - deviations from normal cell-cell communication in the skin, Changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, Changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation, - inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, - changes to calm sensitive or irritated skin, Changes to maintain normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and glycosaminoglycan homeostasis, Changes to stimulate estrogen synthetase, - with increased activation of proteolytic enzymes in the skin, such as metalloproteinases, - changes to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions, - wound healing disorders, - changes to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration, - changes to reduce the production of sebum, Changes to prevent the formation and removal of comedones and / or to stop normal sebum homeostasis, - changes to prevent or eliminate seborrheic phenomena, - changes in prophylaxis and treatment for oily hair, but also for dandruff, - Changes to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins), - Changes to pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, which serve to reduce skin wrinkles and scars, to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin. 4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations with an effective content of Cardiolipin. 5. Use according to claim 1 or preparation according to claim 3, characterized characterized in that the content of cardiolipin in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the range from 0.0005 to 50.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 20.0% by weight, is selected, in each case based on the Total weight of the composition. 6. Use according to claim 1 or preparation according to claim 3, characterized characterized in that the content of cardiolipin in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the range from 0.02 to 10.0% by weight, are preferred from 0.02 to 5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight is, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. 7. Use according to claim 1 or preparation according to claim 3, wherein the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are characterized by an additional content distinguish one or more of the other active ingredients. 8. Use or preparation according to claim 6, characterized in that the further active ingredients from the group: alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha glucosylrutin, carnitine, camosin, osmolytes, clover extract, hop or Hop-malt extract can be chosen.