DE10063658A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion, useful for skin care, e.g. for treating rough skin, comprises sterols and/or fatty acids, polyol mono- and/or diesters, sorbitol monoester, ethoxylated fatty acids and fatty alcohols - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition (I) in the form of an water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) emulsion, comprises: (A) 1-5 wt.% sterols and/or C12-C40 fatty acids; (B) 0.1-1.5 wt.% glycerol, propylene glycol and/or ethylene glycol mono- and/or diesters; (C) 0.1-1.5 wt.% sorbitol monoester; (D) 0.1-1.5 wt.% ethoxylated C12-C40 fatty acids; and (E) 0.5-7 wt.% C12-C40 fatty alcohols. Cosmetic or dermatological composition (I) in the form of an water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) emulsion, with a pH of 3.5-8, comprises: (A) 1-5 wt.% sterols and/or C12-C40 fatty acids; (B) 0.1-1.5 wt.% glycerol, propylene glycol and/or ethylene glycol mono- and/or diesters; (C) 0.1-1.5 wt.% sorbitol monoester; (D) 0.1-1.5 wt.% ethoxylated C12-C40 fatty acids ( <= 100 EO); and (E) 0.5-7 wt.% C12-C40 fatty alcohols. An Independent claim is also included for the preparation of (I).

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological emulsions, esp special skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions. In a vorteilhaf Embodiment of the present invention relates to an application which he allows the stability of fatty acid-containing preparations, in particular emulsions, before added to W / O / W emulsions.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (ex wise for heat regulation and as sensory organ) is the barrier function, the off drying the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) prevents the well important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the ingress and the Absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is caused by the Epidermis, which as the outermost layer, the actual protective cover against the environment forms. At about one-tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the Skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (Stratum corneum), which represents the barrier function important part. Today in Elijah Skin Model Recognized by the Professional World (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Comeum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the Horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (bricks wall) Mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the brick Stones, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces ent speaks the mortar. This system essentially provides a physical barrier However, because of its narrow and multi-layered Structure are equally difficult to pass by lipophilic substances.  

The present invention relates in a particular embodiment cosmetic or Pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness, process for their Production and the use of active ingredients to reduce the stickiness Feeling of cosmetic preparations.

Besides their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences wear The epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous lipids, which are not closed Forming film on the skin are the epidermal lipids over the entire horny layer distributed.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the Lipids of the upper layers of the skin are very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore Cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid blends and water, water-binding substances.

In addition to the chemical composition, however, is also the physical behavior of these substances of importance. Therefore, the development of very good biocompatible Emulsifiers or surfactants desirable. This formulated products support the Liquid-crystalline organization of the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and improve so the barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous if their Molecular components of naturally occurring in the epidermis substances be stand.

Under cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganis against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic Substances or infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.  

The aim of skin care is also the fat and what caused by daily washing to balance the skin's loss of energy. This is especially important when the natural Re generational wealth is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are designed to protect the environment Influences, especially from sun and wind, protect and delay the aging of the skin.

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Me medicines in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean sub divorce between cosmetic and medical use and Products referred to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. By this one understands in the all common a heterogeneous system of two mixed with each other not or only limited fluids, commonly referred to as phases. The one lies in it Form of droplets before (dispere or inner phase), while the other liquid one continuous (coherent or internal phase) forms. Rarer dosage forms are multiple emulsions, ie those which in the droplets of the dispersed (or diskon continuous) phase, in turn, contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, z. As W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

Recent findings have recently led to a better understanding of practical relevance cosmetic emulsions. It is assumed that the in excess emulsifier mixtures lamellar liquid crystalline phases or crystalline gel phases form. In the gel network theory, stability and physicochemical properties are inherent These emulsions are susceptible to the formation of viscoelastic gel webs recycled.

In simple emulsions are in one phase finely dispersed, by an emulsifier enclosed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions). In a multiple emulsion (second degree), however, are in such droplets of fine disperse droplets of the first phase are emulsified. Also in these Droplets in turn may be even finer disperse droplets (multiple emulsion third degree) and so on.  

Just as one speaks for the simple emulsions of W / O or O / W emulsions (Water-in-oil or oil-in-water), there are multiple emulsions W / O / W-, O / W / O-, O / W / O / W, W / O / W / O emulsions and so on.

In Fig. 1, a W / O / W emulsion is shown schematically, wherein the hatched WING surfaces the outer and inner water phase and the white areas mean the oil phase.

Multiple emulsions in which the respective inner and outer water phases or inner and outer oil phases are different (ie, for example, W / O / W 'and O / W / O'emulsions) are available for preparation by two-pot techniques. Such E emulsions in which the inner and outer water or oil phases are not under are of different types, are available through both one- and by two-pot process.

The multiple second degree emulsions are sometimes called "bimultiple systems", such third degree as "trimultiple systems", etc. (W. Seifriz, Studies in E mulsions, J. Phys. Chem., 29 (1925) 738-749).

Processes for the preparation of multiple emulsions are familiar to the person skilled in the art. So there are two-pot processes in which a simple emulsion (eg a W / O emulsion) and by adding a further phase (eg., A water phase) with a corresponding emulsifier (eg an O / W emulsifier) into a multiple emulsion (eg a W / O / W emulsion) is transferred.

A second method is to emulsifier mixtures with an oil phase and a Make water phase in a one-pot process in a multiple W / O / W emulsion. The emulsifiers are dissolved in the oil phase and combined with the water phase. before The reason for such a process is that the HLB values (HLB = hydrophilic lipophilic Balance) of the individual emulsifiers used differ significantly from each other the.

Thus, an object of the present invention, cosmetic or dermatological Zu preparations with excellent skin-care properties.

Further, an object of the present invention was to provide preparations provide, which improve the condition of the skin significantly, especially the Hautrauhig reduce it.  

It is known, by adding certain substances, for example some selected powder raw materials, especially talc, a stickiness or even To reduce greasiness. Apart from that, this is rarely complete succeeds by such an addition, the viscosity of the product in question changed and stability reduced.

The task was therefore to remedy all these disadvantages of the state of the art fen. In particular, products with reduced stickiness or lubricity should be used for Will be provided. Products in the field of nourishing cosmetics, the decoration cosmetic cosmetics and pharmacological galenics should be equally described disadvantages of the prior art are freed.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to provide cosmetic bases for cosmetic To develop preparations that are characterized by good skin compatibility.

Known cosmetic preparations are so-called "stearate emulsions", ie those in which stearic acid and / or palmitic acid or alkali metal salts of stearic acid and / or the palmitic acid is effective as an emulsifier. These preparations can are advantageous as W / O / W emulsions and are characterized by good skin feel and very good skin care performance. The disadvantage, however, is that fatty acids in a pH Range of 3.5-8.0 tend to crystallize (especially in a pH range below half 7.0), whereby the pleasant skin feeling, the skin care performance and the outer Appearance of a corresponding preparation are severely impaired.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to de Finishing is. It has already been proposed to increase the interfacial tension compared to what as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, that the lower the interfaces, the greater the polarity of the relevant oil phase voltage between this oil phase and water. According to the invention, the Grenzflä voltage as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component considered.

The interfacial tension is the force at an imaginary one in the interface acting between two phases line of length of one meter acts. The physika The classical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship  Force / Length and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters) given. It has a positive connotation when it tries to reach the interface out. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.

Table 1 below lists medium-polar lipids which are available as individual substances or also in mixture with each other according to the invention are advantageous. The concerned Interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. It is ever but also possible to use mixtures of higher and lower polar and the like so that a total polarity of the oil phase is in the middle range.

Table 1

According to the teaching presented here W / O emulsions are available whose viscosity at 25 ° C less than 5,000 mPa.s (= millipascal seconds), in particular less than 4,000 m.Pas, preferably less than 3,500 mPa.s (HAAKE Viscotester VT-02).

For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase may also be used, provided that the process described in the patent characteristics are considered - advantageous substances contain, selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic Carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched th alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then are advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isono nylstearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, and the like synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, an object of the present invention, products with the widest possible To provide a variety of applications. For example, basics for Zube preparations such as cleansing emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also created pronounced medical-pharmaceutical dosage forms for example, preparations for acne and other skin conditions.

It has surprisingly been found, and therein lies the solution of these objects that kosme tables or dermatological preparations in the form of a W / O / W emulsion containing

• A) 1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from among sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ -fatty acids,
• B) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, egg one or more mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and / or Propy glycol and / or glycol,  
• C) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation of a or more monoesters of sorbitol,
• D) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, egg nes or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation up to 100, preferably from 5-100 .
• E) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, an o the multiple fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unv branched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbons atoms
• F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably selected as a: b: c, where a, b and c are independently rational numbers from 1 to 5 before zugt from 1 to 3 will represent
• G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,
• H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 14.5% by weight,
• I) and wherein the preparations advantageously in a pH range of 3.5-8.0 (ins especially at pH values of 4.5-6.5),

to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the oil phase has a Ge total polarity between 15 and 40 mN / m, preferably 20-35 mN / m, on.

It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention had to be prepared

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote skin smoothing,
• - are characterized by a better care effect,
• - better as a vehicle for cosmetic and medical-dermatological agents nen
• - higher stability against the crystallization of the fatty acids used aufwei sen and
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility
• - characterized by a better skin feeling and higher cosmetic elegance would draw  
• - would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and broad Formulate consistency and viscosity ranges from 400 mPas to <20,000 mPas would let

as the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention can be formulated cream-like, have very good properties cosmetic properties, in particular as regards the stickiness, and have a very good skin compatibility and skin care performance.

Sterols are steroids that only in the 3-position a hydroxy group, but otherwise no functional group, thus formally represent alcohols more logical Bez. Sterols used. In addition, the 27 to 30 have C atoms Sterols generally have a double bond in the 5/6 position, more rarely also / or in 7/8, 8/9 and other positions (eg 22/23).

The sterols are lipids - mostly in the form of esters (formerly called sterols) - in the Nature widely used. The sterols found in the animal kingdom are called zoosterols. The most important representative is cholesterol. Other zoosterols were found in wool fat (La nosterin), in wool wax (dihydrolanosterol), in the silkworm, in sponges (Spon gosterin), starfish, sea urchins, oysters, etc.

Cholesterol is characterized by the following structure:

Lanosterol is characterized by the following structure:

Dihydrolanosterol is characterized by the following structure:

The plant sterols are called phytosterols. Her most important representatives are He gosterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol. You will find partially in cosmetics. Use products dung. Occasionally one separates from the group of phytosterols the sterols from mushrooms and Yeasts as mycosterins (eg ergosterol, fungisterin, stellasterin and zymosterol).

Examples of phytosterols are:

All phytosterols to be used according to the invention have one more or less large number of optical isomers, which are not listed here in detail which have proved to be advantageous if their cosmetic Unbe Possibility is beyond question.

Preferred sterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.  

Preferred fatty acids are stearic acid and / or palmitic acid (stearin) and lignocerin acid.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, ge selects from the group glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol mono stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, Gly ceryloleate, glyceryl stearate citrate,

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more monoesters of sorbitol, in particular advantageous: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate,

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention further relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, in particular selected from the group pe PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention further relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing

• A) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or several branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols le, selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cetylstea ryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures out.

The total amount of 12 to 40 carbon branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols atoms in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is present Partly selected from the range of 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-3.0 wt .-%, bezo to the total weight of the preparations.

Wool wax alcohols (CAS No. 8027-33-6) represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax obtained after the saponification of the wool wax. They consist of about 25.2% of cholesterol, 2.7% of lanosterol, 2.2% of dihydrolanosterol and about 29.5% of aliphatic monovalent C ₁₆ -C ₃₂ alcohols. Wool wax alcohols who therefore used for the preparation of ointment bases, from which most W / O emulsions are made GE used.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention therefore relate to preparations according to

• A) where from the group of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms from the group of Wool wax alcohols are chosen
• B) wherein these wool wax alcohols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols and a or several sterols, for example cholesterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol, ent hold.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate, for example, to kosme tables and dermatological preparations in the form of W / O / W emulsions containing at least 3% liquid lipids (preferably selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides and (c) ethers of medium chain fatty alcohols, (d) nonpolar lipids or (e) silicone oils or mixtures thereof).

In the context of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and The term "lipids" is sometimes used, as would be obvious to those skilled in the art is common. Also, the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" are used interchangeably.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to de Finishing is. It has already been proposed to increase the interfacial tension compared to what as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. In this case, that the lower the interfacial tension, the greater the polarity of the oil phase concerned  between this oil phase and water. According to the invention, the Grenzflä voltage as a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component considered.

The interfacial tension is the force at an imaginary one in the interface acting between two phases line of length of one meter acts. The physi The classical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship hung strength / length and is usually expressed in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters) given. It has a positive connotation when it tries to reach the interface out. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. As polar in the sense of The present invention contemplates lipids whose interfacial tension is against Water is less than 30 mN / m.

Polar oils are, for example, those from the group of the lecithins and the fatty acid tri glycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be chosen, for example, to be advantageous are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, rizi nut oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the same more.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of esters from ge saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n- Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl iso nonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic tables and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.  

Furthermore, the oil phase may advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who first wrote their production. They arise according to the reaction equation

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde Hyds, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of allyl aldehyde. Guerbe Alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and cause virtually none Skin irritation. Advantageously, we as greasy, over-greasy and also greasy we kende ingredients are used in skin and hair care products.

The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by the structure

out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

Advantageously according to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are the 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 12 from the company Con dea Chemie GmbH - and 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure

and is, for example, under the trade name Isofol® 16 from the Company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are also present according to the invention to use in part. Mixtures of 2-butyloctanol and 2-hexyldecanol are exemplified under the trade name Isofol® 14 by Condea Chemie GmbH available.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatologi preparations is advantageously from the range to 25.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5- 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Sin ne of the present invention to use. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase einzusein put.

Non-polar oils are, for example, those which are selected from the group of ver branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (Petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutene ne. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances. The follow Table 2 lists lipids that can be used as single substances or as a mixture which are advantageous according to the invention. The relevant interfacial tensions against  Water is given in the last column. However, it is also beneficial to make mixtures higher and lower polarity and the like to use.

Table 2

As basic components of the preparations according to the invention can be used:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• - natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;  
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably Esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propy glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids. Number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono ethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or mono butyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous Pro -products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

The oil phase of the emulsions according to the present invention is erfindungsge preferably preferably composed of components of the type listed in item (4), although it is possible to accept without major disadvantages, up to 50% by weight. %, preferably up to 40 wt .-% of the total weight of the oil components from the Group of other oil components to choose. These can then be chosen advantageously who from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carbon acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkoxy get a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageous are selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, iso propyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-Oc tyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ethers, the group of sown saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be chosen, for example, to be advantageous  are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel and the like, if the conditions required in the main claim a being held.

According to the invention can be used advantageously fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petro chemical waxes are chosen. According to the invention, for example, Can delilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, Jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), Crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes, provided that the Main claim required conditions are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those known under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid ) as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified bent waxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example, hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid ter and glycol esters, such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoylstearat and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties as the said fat and / or wax components, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions required in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components both individually and present in the mixture.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Sin ne of the present invention to use.  

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15- alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether or mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexyliso stearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2- Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat if the conditions required in the main claim conditions are met.

Of the hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated Use polyisobutene or polydecene advantageous in the context of the present invention if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

W / O / W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be produced with the aid of the customary O / W Emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of W / O emulsifiers or more Coemulsifiers are produced.

If desired, W / O / W emulsions according to the present invention furthermore comprise one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in admixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, Wollwachssäu regemische, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrityl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diiso stearate, beeswax (Cera alba) and Stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with Isopropylhydroxycetylether, Methylglucose dioleate, Methylglucose dioleate in admixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in admixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in admixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in admixture with cetyl dimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2 -dipolyhydroxys tearat, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate ,

If desired, W / O / W emulsions according to the present invention comprise one or more emulsifiers, in particular advantageously selected from the group of the following substances which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in admixture with stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate , Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glyceryl oleate mixed with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetyl stearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in admixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG -22-dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4-stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 mixed with PEG-8 di stearate, steareth-21, Steareth-20, Isostearet h-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, Stearamido propyl-PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20-methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, tri-eteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth- 10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in admixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in admixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in the form of a Skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of egg ner sunscreen or a sunscreen milk, are advantageous and contain z. B. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more  Emulsifiers as commonly used for such type of formulation become.

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions tongues are usually not possible without the usual auxiliaries and additives. among them include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insects repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic same substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Medical topical compositions according to the present invention ent usually keep one or more drugs in effective concentration. The one For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Ordinance, Lebensmittel- und Arz neimittelgesetz).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions used in the context of the present invention, depending on their structure, for example are used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous, the inventive to use compositions as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations the.

It is also advantageous from the properties of the invention in the form of de make use of cosmetic cosmetics (make-up formulations).

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are used in the Form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain next to him In addition, the active ingredient used according to the invention additionally contains at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.  

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, such cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not the Protection against sunlight is, but the content of UV-protective substances ent hold. For example, UV-A or UV-B filters are commonly used in day creams integrated punching.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which are UV rays absorb in the UVB range, wherein the total amount of the filter substances z. 0.1% by weight up to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-meth oxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid (4) isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethyl hexyl ester);
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. As sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzene zophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and ih salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention is intended to be Of course, not limiting.

It may also be advantageous to include UVA filters in preparations according to the invention usually used in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations ent are holding. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of Dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane 1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations that contain these combinations are the subject of the invention. It can be the same Quantities of UVA filter substances are used, which for UVB filter substances were called.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments, commonly used in cosmetics To protect the skin from UV rays are used. These are Oxi of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and Mi tions thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can The quantities mentioned for the above combinations may be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can kos containing metic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as they are usually in such Preparations are used, for. As antioxidants, preservatives, bacteri cides, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments coloring matter, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents medium or silicone derivatives.

It is advantageous for the preparations according to the present invention further antiirrita tive or anti-inflammatory agents, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecyl glyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α- Hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.  

It is also advantageous, the preparations in the context of the present invention usual Add antioxidants. According to the invention as favorable antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl , γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, di stearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathio ninsulfoximin) in se hr low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, furfurylidenesorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, Vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as benzoic acid coniferyl benzoate, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophe non, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its Deri vate (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg, selenomethionine ), Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the present invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations be preferably carries 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, esp especially 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, be relied on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

Preparations according to the present invention may also be used as a reason situation for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All common for deodorants or antiperspirants agents can ge advantageous be used, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, Odor absorber, for example, in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 be phyllosilicates, of which in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, lite, beidellite, Nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinole acid.

Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable in the preparations according to the invention to be incorporated. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hy droxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'- Trichlorocarbonilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, tri ethyl citrate, Famesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those described in Patent Patent documents DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696, DE-195 47 160, DE- 196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31 003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patents DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or active ingredient combinations. Also, sodium bicarbonate is advantageous to use.

The amount of such agents (one or more compounds) in the preparations According to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zu preparation.  

The water phase of the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention may also have gel character, in addition to an effective content of the erfindungsge according to substances used and solvents commonly used, be preferably water, even more organic thickeners, for. Gum arabic, xan thangummi, sodium alginate, starch and starch derivatives (eg distarch phosphate), cellulose, Cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic Ver thickener, z. As aluminum silicates such as organically modified or unmodified hectorites, bentonites, or the like, or a mixture of poly ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickening agent tel is in the gel z. B. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, contained.

It may also be advantageous to use preparations according to the invention border or oberflä chenaktiven agents add, for example, cationic emulsifiers such as in particular quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be chosen are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyl trialkylammonium chlorides or bromides such as benzyldimethylstea rylammonium chloride, further Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, for example, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammo ammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides or bromides, alkyl amide ethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Ce tylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds of cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkyldimethylaminoxide or alkylamino ethyldimethylaminoxide. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous use.

It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (for example Jaguar® C 162 [hydroxypropyl guar Hy droxypropyltrimonium chlorides] or modified magnesium aluminum silicates (eg. Quaternium-18 hectorite, which z. B. under the trade name Bentone® 38 at  the company Rheox is available, or stearalkonium hectorite, which z. B. under the Han product name Softisan® gel available from Hüls AG).

Preparations according to the invention may advantageously also contain oil thickeners, to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the pen consistency. benefit For the purposes of the present invention, oil thickeners are, for example, further Solids, such as For example, hydrophobic silicas of the type Aerosil®, available from Degus sa AG are available. Advantageous Aerosil® types are, for example, Aerosil® OX 50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200, Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil® COK 84, Aerosil® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972, Aerosil® R 974 and / or Aerosil® R 976.

Furthermore, so-called metal soaps (i.e., the salts of higher fatty acids with exception me the alkali metal salts) advantageous oil thickener in the context of the present invention, such as aluminum stearate, zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Also advantageous is preparations according to the invention amphoteric or zwitterio niche surfactants (eg cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizers (eg betaine). Advantageously to use amphoteric surfactants are, for example, acyl / dialkylethylenedi amine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, dinatriu malkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodi acetate and sodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkyl amino acids, for example aminopropyl alkyl glutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroampho carboxyglycinat.

The amount of surfactant (one or more compounds in the preparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight. %, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

An amazing feature of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents are in the skin, wherein be preferred active ingredients are the aforementioned antioxidants, which protect the skin from oxidati ver can protect stress.  

According to the invention, the active compounds (one or more compounds) can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocor tison-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin B ₁ , the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often vitamin F), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. As evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances select, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The active substance or agents are furthermore advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the preparations of the invention for Be Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation Radiation to the skin should serve.

Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

Further advantageously, the active ingredient (s) are selected from the group which cate chine and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts Plants or parts of plants containing catechins or bile acids esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). In particular, before Partly their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, Vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or An Thocyanidins are to be construed and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-Fla vanpentaene, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicatechin  ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient within the meaning of the present invention Invention.

Also advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular Extracts of green tea, such as. B. Extracts from leaves of plants of the species Ca mellia spec., in particular the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - Cate chin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicate chin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also, flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are beneficial agents within the meaning of the present invention. They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which are also preferred in Zuberei invention can be used in the following Table 3:

Table 3

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and un branched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

According to the invention, however, the flavonoids can also be chosen advantageously from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

wherein Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups may be branched and un branched and may have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly _1, Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Advantageously, Z ₁ to Z _{5 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, Me thoxy-, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageous from the group which are represented by the following structure:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Preferably Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly _{3 are} independently selected from the group of Hexosylreste, in particular the Rhamnosylreste and Glucosylreste. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous to use. It may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the or the Flavongly coside to choose from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-Glucosylmyricetin, α-Glucosyliso quercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is α-glucosylrutin.  

Naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside) is also advantageous according to the invention. Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7 O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, Sophorin, birutane, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy- 3,4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopy ranoside), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-de oxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetine (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-penta hydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflava non-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyrano sid).

It is also advantageous, the one or more agents from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widely used and thus the best studied biochi none. Ubiquinones are prepared according to the number of isoprene linked in the side chain. Units as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or by number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. B. in some micro organisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans outweighs Q10.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). Furthermore, there are other Plastochinone with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and at the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols ver esterified derivatives.

Another beneficial agent is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butyrate-acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitines, which are selected from the group of substances of fol lowing general structural formula

wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention dung. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl carnitine. Both entantio Mere (D and L form) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any enantiomeric mixtures, for example a Ra cemat of D and L form.

Other beneficial agents are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavor substances.

The list of active ingredients or active substance combinations mentioned in the erfindungsge mäß preparations can be used, of course, not limiting his. The active compounds can be used individually or in any combination with each other ver be used.

The amount of such agents (one or more compounds) in the preparations According to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zu preparation.

The preparation of preparations according to the invention advantageously takes place in that the Be components of the oil phase or the water phase separately combined and he warms, and then with stirring with low energy input, advantageously with the help of a Zahnkranzdispergiermaschine with a speed up to 6000 rev / min, before preferably from 1500 to 4800 rpm, combined with each other.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.  

Example 1 (W / O / W Cream)

Wt .-% stearic acid 2.00 lignoceric 1.00 cetyl alcohol 5.00 PEG-20 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 octyldodecanol 6.00 Isopropylpalmitate 1.00 Octylstearate 1.00 myristate 3.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.10 Ceramides III 0.50 sodium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 5.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with a rotational speed of 1500 rev / min combined.  

Example 2 (W / O / W Lotion)

Wt .-% cholesterol 2.50 lanosterol 0.50 lanolin 0.50 Myristylalcohol 1.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 2.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Propylene / dicaprate 3.00 octyl palmitate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 retinol 0.20 potassium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 5.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with combined at a speed of 3600 rev / min.  

Example 3 (W / O / W Lotion)

Wt .-% stearic acid 3.00 Myristylalcohol 1.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 Propylene / dicaprate 3.00 octyl palmitate 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 Alpha-glucosyl 0.50 retinol 0.20 potassium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 5.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with a speed of 2400 rev / min combined.  

Example 4 (W / O / W cream)

Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 0.50 stearic acid 3.00 cholesterol 1.00 Cetylstearylalkohol 4.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 sorbitan 0.50 Caprylic / capric 3.00 hexyl 4.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 Hydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 5.00 Ceramides II 0.07 xanthan gum 0.10 citric acid 0.10 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with a rotational speed of 1500 rev / min combined.  

Example 5 (W / O / W emulsion make-up)

Wt .-% PEG-40 stearate 1.00 stearic acid 3.00 lanolin 0.50 cholesterol 0.25 lignoceric 0.25 cetyl alcohol 2.00 glyceryl stearate 1.00 sorbitan 1.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 Cetylstearylisononanoate 2.00 hexyldecanol 5.00 glycerin 3.00 Carbomer 0.15 mica 1.00 magnesium silicate 1.00 iron oxides 1.00 Titanium dioxide 2.50 talc 5.00 retinol 0.20 sodium hydroxide q. s. preservation q. s. Perfume q. s. Water, demineralized pH adjusted to 6.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with a speed of 1800 rev / min combined.  

Example 6 (W / O / W Cream)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 1.00 lignoceric 1.00 cholesterol 1.00 lanolin 1.00 cetyl alcohol 4.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl 1.00 octyldodecyl 3.00 octyldodecanol 3.00 tricaprylin 2.00 Butyleneglycolcaprylat / caprate 2.00 Cyclomethicone 1.00 Ceramide 0.50 Vitamin E Acetates 1.00 xanthan gum 0.10 glycerin 3.00 BHT 0.02 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-6.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with at a speed of 2800 rpm combined.  

Example 7 (W / O / W Lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearates 0.50 stearic acid 2.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 Sorbitan Stearate 0.50 Glyceryl stearate 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 Octylpalmitate 2.00 tocopheryl acetate 2.00 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 Ceramides III 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-7.0 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with at a speed of 2800 rpm combined.  

Example 8 (sunscreen cream)

Wt .-% PEG-100 stearate 1.00 stearic acid 2.00 cholesterol 1.00 lignoceric 1.00 cetyl alcohol 4.00 sorbitan 1.00 glyceryl stearate 2.00 octyldodecanol 4.00 paraffin oil 2.00 butyloctanol 6.00 xanthan gum 0.10 Natriumcarbomer 0.10 glycerin 3.00 octyl 4.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 octyl salicylate 3.00 Alpha-glucosyl 0.20 BHT 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.10 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, etc. q. s. Water pH adjusted to 5.0-5.5 ad 100.00

The components of the oil phase or the water phase are separately zusammengege ben and heated, and then with stirring with a Zahnrranzdispergiermaschine with a rotational speed of 3300 U / min combined.

Claims (8)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a W / O / W emulsion ent holding

• A) 1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more substances selected from among sterols, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ fatty acids,
• B) from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono- and / or diesters of glycerol and / or of propylene glycol and / or of glycol,
• C) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation of one or more monoesters of sorbitol,
• D) from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of the chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of up to 100, preferably of 5-100,
• E) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms
• F) wherein the ratio of (II): (III): (IV) is preferably selected as a: b: c, wherein a, b and c independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.
• G) and the ratio of (II) + (III) + (IV) to (V) is preferably in the range 5: 1 to 1: 5,
• H) the sum of (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) being at most 14.5% by weight,
• I) and wherein the preparations are advantageously present in a pH range of 3.5-8.0, preferably at pH values of 4.5-6.5.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, GE selected from the group glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, propylene glycol mono stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, gly ceryloleat, glyceryl stearate citrate,

3. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight of one or more monoesters of sorbitol selected from the group of sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate,

4. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

• A) 0.1 up to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, with fatty acids of chain length C ₁₂ -C ₄₀ and a degree of ethoxylation of 5-100, selected from the group PEG Stearate, PEG-30 stearate PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate

5. Preparations according to claim 1, containing

• A) 0.5-5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, one or more branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, selected from the group myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, cylstearylalkohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

6. Preparations according to claim 1,

• A) wherein the selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms from the group of wool wax alcohols,
• B) which may also contain one or more sterols in addition to the aliphatic alcohols.

7. Preparations according to claim 1, containing at least 3% liquid lipids vorzugswei selected from (a) Guerbet alcohols, (b) saturated triglycerides, (c) ethers fatty fatty alcohols, (d) nonpolar lipids and / or (e) silicone oils or blends it. 8. A process for the preparation of W / O / W emulsions according to claim 1, that the stock parts of the oil phase or the water phase separately combined and heated, and then with stirring with low energy input, preferably with the help of a ring gear Dispersing machine with a number of revolutions up to a maximum of 6000 U / min, preferably from 1500 to 4800 rpm, combined with each other.