CZ20003853A3 - A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous emulsion of vinyldimethylcone-dimethyl copolymers - Google Patents

Abstract

The present solution belongs to the new cosmetic preparations containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one aqueous emulsion of at least one copolymer of ethylenically unsaturated dimethicone with dimethicone, with a viscosity in the range of 106 and 100.106 cP and at least one cationic surfactant. This combination brings cosmetic properties (smoothness, lightness, softness) to keratin fibers without the phenomenon of greasiness. These mixtures are used in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratinous formations, such as hair or skin.

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic preparations comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic surfactant and at least one aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone-type copolymer as defined below and having a viscosity between 10 ⁶ and 100.10 ⁶ cP.

and*

State of the art

It is well known that hair that has been sensitized to varying degrees (i.e., worn and/or made brittle) either by atmospheric agents or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching and/or perming is not soft and is often difficult to part and comb.

It has already been stated that conditioners, especially cationic polymers or silicones, are used in preparations for washing or treating keratin structures such as hair to facilitate detangling and to achieve softness and elasticity. Unfortunately, these above-mentioned advantages are also accompanied by certain obviously undesirable cosmetic effects in already dry hair, such as weighting of the hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair) or lack of smoothness (inhomogeneity of the hair between the root and the tip).

In addition, the use of cationic polymers is accompanied by a number of unpleasant phenomena. Due to their strong affinity for hair, certain polymers deposit in significant quantities upon repeated application, which leads to undesirable phenomena such as hair that is unpleasant to the touch, heavy hair, stiffening of the hair and its sticking together, which adversely affects combing. These unpleasant phenomena are accentuated in the case of fine hair that lacks strength and volume.

It can be summarized that currently used cosmetic preparations containing cationic silicones and/or cationic surfactants do not provide completely satisfactory results.

444

4 4

4 4

44444

4

4444 4

44

4 4 • 4 ·

4 ·

4 4 4

4 44

The essence of the invention

The present inventor has discovered that combining an aqueous emulsion of at least one silicone copolymer, as defined below and having a viscosity between 10 ⁶ and 100.10 ⁶ cP, with a cationic surfactant allows these unpleasant phenomena to be eliminated.

Through extensive research into the issues discussed, the editor has found that by adding an (aqueous) emulsion of a certain silicone copolymer to previously known hair preparations based on cationic surfactants, it is possible to reduce or even eliminate the problems generally associated with such preparations, which are (with repeated use) in particular heaviness to the touch, lack of smoothness and softness of the hair, all while maintaining other cosmetically beneficial properties associated with conditioner-type preparations.

and

In addition, the preparations according to the invention, which are applied to the skin, particularly in the form of a foaming bath or shower gel, cause an improvement in the softness of the skin.

Thus, according to the present invention, novel cosmetic preparations are now proposed, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous emulsion composed of at least one silicone copolymer as defined below, said copolymer having a dynamic viscosity between 10 ⁶ and 100.10 ⁶ cP, and at least one cationic surfactant.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of an aqueous emulsion of at least one aqueous emulsion of a siliconized copolymer as defined below with a viscosity in the range of 10 ⁶ to 100.10 ⁶ cP within or for the production of a cosmetic preparation containing a cationic surfactant.

The various objects of the invention will be described in detail below. The set of meanings and definitions of the formulations used in this invention and given below is valid for all objects of the invention.

4 « · 4 4

4 4

4444 4

4

4444 · 4 • 44 44

4 44 4

4 4 4 *

4 4 4 4 ·

4 4 4 4

444 44 44

The silicone copolymer generally has a dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of about 25°C and at a shear rate of 0.01 Hz for a load of 1500 Pa, in values between 10 ⁶ and 100.10 ⁶ cP and preferably between 5.10 ⁶ cP and 30.10 ⁶ cP.

All dynamic viscosity measurements reported in this application were performed at a temperature of approximately 25°C using a Carri-Med CSL2-500.

The silicone copolymer present in the composition according to the invention occurs in the form of an aqueous emulsion.

f* Aqueous emulsion means an oil-in-water emulsion in which a silicone copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in an aqueous phase forming the continuous phase of the emulsion.

This emulsion can be stabilized by a conventional emulsifier system.

This silicone emulsion may have a particle or droplet size of silicone between 10 nm and

50,000 nm (50 pm), preferably between 300 nm and 20,000 nm (20 pm).

Particle size is measured by laser granulometry.

The emulsifying system includes surfactants typically used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants may be nonionic, cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or mixtures thereof, as described below.

The emulsifier system represents 0.5 to 10 weight percent of the total weight of the emulsion.

Silicone copolymer is the result of an additive reaction in which at least:

(a) one polysiloxane of formula (I)

Ro

R„

R-Si

R.

O—Si·

Ro

-O—SiI

Ro ^R 1 (I)

4 4 • 4 ·

4 4 4

44 in which:

R 1 denotes a group capable of reacting in the sense of additive chain attachment, such as, for example, one hydrogen atom, an ethylenically unsaturated aliphatic group, in particular vinyl, allyl or hexenyl.

The groups R ₂ in formula (I) may represent in particular an alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or hydroxyl group and may in addition carry functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates and sulfates.

Alkyl groups have, for example, 1 to 20 carbon atoms; cycloalkyl groups have, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; aryl groups are especially phenyl groups; alkenyl groups have, in particular, 2 to 10 carbon atoms; alkylaryl groups may have 7 to 20 carbon atoms.

R ₂ denotes in particular methyl.

n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of formula (I) has a kinematic viscosity of between 1 and 1.10 ⁶ mm ² /s. The value of n is in particular between 5 and 5,000.

b) and at least one silicone compound containing at least one and at most two groups capable of reacting with the R1 groups of the polysiloxane (a), at least one of the R1 radicals of compounds of type (a) or (b) denotes an ethylenically unsaturated aliphatic group.

Compounds of type (b) are capable of reacting with the R1 groups of polysiloxane (a).

In the optimal case, silicone copolymers are obtained in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst (for example, a platinum catalyst), in particular by an additive reaction of at least:

-(a) one α,ω divinylpolymethylsiloxane and

-(b) α,ω dihydrogenopolydimethylsiloxane.

·· * φ φ φφφφ φ φ φ φ φ φφφ φ φ φ φ · φ φ φ φφ φφ

For example, kinematic viscosity is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

The silicone copolymers of the invention are substantially uncrosslinked.

The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is described in particular in patent application EP A874017.

These emulsions are marketed mainly under the name DC2-1997 cationic emulsion of DOW CORNING. This emulsion comprises a copolymer of α,ω divinyl dimethicone/α,ω dihydrogendimethylcone with a dynamic viscosity of around 15.10 ⁶ cP, a cationic emulsifier such as cetyltrimethylamine chloride, a stabilizer of the _? type of hydroxyethyl cellulose and water.

The silicone copolymer is preferably used in an amount of between 0.05 and 10 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount is between 0.1 and 5 weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer represents 0.5 to 15 weight percent based on the total weight of the preparation.

Cationic surfactants can be, for example, salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; salts of quaternary amines; imidazoline derivatives; or oxidized amines with cationic character.

Quaternary ammonium salts are, for example:

those salts which have the following general formula (IV):

+

X' (iv)

L in which the radicals R1 to R4, identical or different, represent an aliphatic, linear or branched radical with 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical preferably with Cg-Cio such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may carry heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. Aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxyl, polyoxyl alkene ( _C2 -C6), alkylamide, alkyl (C12- _C22 ), amidoalkyl ( _C2 -C6), alkyl ( _C2 -C12) acetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals with about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl ( _C2 - _C6 ) sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates.

The compounds of formula (IV) are preferably chosen from those containing at least two fatty chains of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, those containing at least one fatty chain of more than 16 carbon atoms and those containing at least one aromatic radical.

and those quaternary ammonium salts of imidazole corresponding to the following formula (V):

R _e

Λ

V_7

CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(R ₈ )-CO-R _c (V) _ř

R.

in which R5 represents an alkenyl radical or alkyl containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R^ represents one hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical on C1-C4 or an alkenyl or alkyl radical with 8-30 carbon atoms, R7 represents an alkyl radical on C1-C4, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates, R5 and R6 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes methyl, R8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is on the market for example under the name "REWOQUAT W 75" Spol. REWO.

quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI):

++

R ₉ — N_(CH ₂ ) _r NR _M

2X (VI),

9 9

999 · · · • 9 9 9 • ···· · 9

9 9

9999 9 999 9

99

99 in which R9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms, the radicals R10, Rn, R12, R13 and R14, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon radicals, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular diammonium dichloride “propanesulphate”.

quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester group

Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester group that are useful in the invention are, for example, salts of the following formula (VII):

( C _f H _a O ) _z -R„

R.-C-( OC„H ₂ „ )„-N-( C„ K _2p O )-R.

X- I (Vil) in which: _D ^R 15

- R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and from C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

- Ri6 is chosen between:

radical θ radicals R20 with linear or branched hydrocarbons at C1-C22, saturated or unsaturated, a hydrogen atom,

- Rig is chosen between:

radical

R _2T Radicals R22 with linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated, with a hydrogen atom,

- R17, R18, and R19, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals of C7-C21, saturated or unsaturated;

• 9

• 9 9 · • · *►· η, ρ, r, identical or different, are integers with values from 2 to 6; y is an integer value from 1 to 10;

x, z, identical or different, are integers with values from 0 to 10;

X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

with the proviso that the sum of x + y + z is equal to 1 to 15, that if x is equal to 0, then R 1 denotes the radical R 20 and that if z is equal to 0, then R 1 denotes the radical R 22.

The alkyl radicals R15 can be linear or branched, in particular linear.

Ru preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, in particular a methyl or ethyl radical.

It is desirable that the sum of x + y + z has a value between 1 and 10.

When R 16 is a hydrocarbon radical R ₂₀ , it may be 12 to 22 carbon atoms long, or short with 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

If Reich is a hydrocarbon radical R22, it should preferably have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

It is advantageous to choose Rn, R19 and _R21 , whether the same or different, from linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals and in particular from C11-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The quantity x and the quantity z, whether the same or different, should preferably have the value 0 or 1.

It is advantageous if y equals 1.

The quantities n, p, r, whether the same or different, should preferably have the value 2 or 3, and even better should be equal to 2.

The anion should preferably be a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfate, more preferably methyl sulfate. Methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate can be used • 4 4

4 4

4 *

4444

4

4444 4

94 44

44 4 4 4 4

4 S 9 4 9

4 4 4 4 4 4

4 4 4 4 4

944 449 44 44 or an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with the amine in the ester function.

The anion X is preferably chloride or methyl sulfate.

In particular, ammonium salts of formula (VII) are used in which:

- Ris denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x, y are equal to 1;

- z is equal to 0 or 1;

- n, p, r are equal to 2;

-Ri6 is chosen between:

- radical

Ri?c- radicals methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon at C14-C22

- a hydrogen atom;

-Ris is chosen between:

- radical

R 1 is a hydrogen atom;

- R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably from C13-C17 alkyl or alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. It is preferred that the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

For example, it is possible to cite compounds of formula (VII) such as salts (especially chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacylethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals should have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived in particular from vegetable oil such as palm or ·· · · • · I • · ( sunflower. If the compound contains several acyl radicals, these may be identical or different.

These preparations are obtained, for example, by direct esterification with triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanoalmine, or oxyalkylenated, fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, » methyl paraparatoluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol.

Such preparations are marketed, for example, under the name DEHYQUAT by Henkel, as STEPANQUAT by Stepán, as NOXAMIUM by Ceca and as REXOWUAT WE 18 by Revo-Witco.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Among the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the radial alkyl comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, marketed under the name CERAPHYL 70 by Van Dyk.

According to the present invention, the cationic surfactant or surfactants may represent 0.5 to 20 weight percent, preferably 1 to 10 weight percent, of the final weight of the preparation.

• ·

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one surfactant, which is generally present in an amount of between about 0.1 and 60 weight percent, preferably between 3 and 40 weight percent and most preferably between 5 and 30 weight percent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants or mixtures of these surfactants.

Surfactants suitable for the practice of the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactants: I

Within the scope of the present invention, their nature is not critical. As an example of anionic surfactant, alone or in a mixture, it is possible to cite in particular (the list is not limited to) salts (in particular alkaline sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amidosulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isothionates and N-acyl laurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably has 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical denotes mainly a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as salts of oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, copra oil acid, hydrogenated copra oil; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, or alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylpolyoxylalkylene acids, alkyl(C6-C24)arylethercarboxylpolyoxylalkylene acids, alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylpolyoxylalkene acids and their salts, in particular those having 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

9 9 • · 9 · · · ·

9 9 ·

9 9 ·

Among the anionic surfactants, the use of salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof is preferred according to the present invention.

(ii) Non-ionic surfactants

Nonionic surfactants are also well known as such (see in particular M.R. Porter: "Handbook of Surfactants" published by Blackie and Son, Glasgow and London, 1991, pp. 116-178) and their nature is not a critical factor within the scope of the present invention. They may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated with a fatty chain comprising 8-18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may vary between 2 and 50 and the number of glycerol groups may vary between 2 and 30. Co-polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene with fatty alcohols may also be mentioned; fatty polyethoxylamides containing 2 and 30 moles of ethylene oxide, fatty polyglycerolated amides with an average of 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4 such groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines with preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose esters of fatty diacids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (C10-C14)amine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be mentioned that alkyl polyglycosides form nonionic surfactants which are particularly well suited within the scope of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not a critical factor within the scope of the present invention, may be (non-limiting list) derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic radical has a linear or branched chain with 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contains at least one anionic hydrosolubilizing group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); it is also possible to mention alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8- _C2o )amidoalkyl(Ci-C6) betaines or alkyl(C8- _C2o )amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines,

Among the amine derivatives, there are preparations marketed under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and with the structures: R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(R ₃ )(R 4 )(CH ₂ COO-) (2), in which: R ₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from the acid R ₂ -COOH present in hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R ₃ denotes betahydroxyethyl and R 4 a carboxymethyl group;

»» and

R ₅ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(C) (3) _t in which: _#

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ -OX', C represents -(CH 2 ) _Z -Y', when z = 1 or 2,

X' denotes a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom

Y' represents -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H

R5 denotes the alkyl radical of the acid R9-COOH present in copra oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular at C7, C9, C11 or _C13 , an alkyl radical at C17 and its isoform, an unsaturated C17 radical.

The compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition 1993 under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Laurodiamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

For example, cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated, RHONE POULENC Company, may be mentioned.

In the preparations according to the invention, mixtures of surfactants are preferably used, in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. A mixture of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant is particularly preferred.

• · • ···· · ft · »44 *

Preferably, an anionic surfactant is used selected from alkyl(Ci2-Ci4) sulfates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium, alkyl(Ci2-Ci4) ether sulfates of sodium, triethanolamine or ethyleneoxyammonium which is ethylenically oxidized with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isothionate and sodium olefin(Ci4-Ci6) sulfonate and mixtures thereof with:

- either with an amphoteric surfactant such as amino derivatives designated disodium cocoamphodipropionate or sodium cocoamphodipropionate, marketed in particular by Spol. RHONEPOULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in an aqueous solution containing 38% active substance, or under the designation MIRANOL C32;

- or with an amphoteric surfactant of the zwitterionic type such as alkyl betaines, in particular *coco betaine marketed by Henkel under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in an aqueous solution containing 32% active substance.

The preparation according to the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, cationic polymers, amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic, proteins, protein hydrolysates, methyl-18-eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic, linear or networked, modified or not, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additives conventionally used in the cosmetic field that do not affect the properties of the preparation according to the present invention.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions of from 0 to 20 percent by weight of the total composition. The precise amount of each additive is easily determined by the skilled person according to the nature and function of the additive.

The subject of the invention is a method of acting on keratinous substances, such as skin or hair, characterized in that it consists in applying a cosmetic preparation, as previously defined, to the keratinous formations and then optionally rinsing with water.

• · · • · · • · · • · · · · · · ·

1.5

Thus, the method according to the invention allows to maintain a hairstyle, to condition, care for, wash or remove make-up from the skin, hair or any other keratin formation.

The preparations according to the invention can be presented in particular in the form of a conditioner after washing the hair with shampoo, for further rinsing or not, in the form of preparations for permanent waving, straightening, dyeing or bleaching hair, or in the form of rinse-off preparations, for application before or after dyeing and bleaching hair, permanent waving or straightening hair or between two stages of a permanent waving or straightening hair procedure.

The preparations according to the invention may also exist in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic washing agents (lotions) for skin and/or hair care.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened wash or foam and may be used on the skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and especially on the hair.

The compositions according to the invention can also be used for washing or treating keratinous structures such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, pubic skin and in particular hair.

The compositions according to the invention may also be detergent compositions/such as shampoos, shower gels, bath foams or make-up removers. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, usually aqueous.

The surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base can be chosen arbitrarily, alone or in mixtures, from among the anionic, amphoteric or nonionic and cationic surfactants defined above.

• ·

The quality and quantity of the washing base are sufficient for the final preparation to have satisfactory foaming and/or detergency capacity.

According to the invention, the washing base may thus represent 4 to 50%, preferably 6 to 35% and most preferably 8 to 25% of the total weight of the final preparation.

The preparations can be formulated into various forms, such as sprays, squeeze sprays or aerosol containers, to provide application of the preparation in the form of a spray or foam. Such formulations are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, lacquer or mousse for application to the hair.

F

In everything that follows or precedes, pots/T percentages are expressed.

The invention will be further illustrated in the following by means of examples which are not to be considered as limiting the methods of implementation described. In these examples, the abbreviation AH stands for active material.

Examples of implementation:

EXAMPLE 1:

According to the invention, a conditioner was prepared for application after washing the hair with shampoo, having the following composition;

- a mixture of myristate, palmitate and myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate 1 g

- cetyl alcohol 5 g

- hydroxyethylcellulose (molecular weight 1,300,000) 0.25g

- behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP phy. CLARIANT) 1 g AH

- cationic emulsion with 67% AH from a copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane with α,ω vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane with α,ω hydrogenated groups (DC-1997 by DOW CORNING) 0.8 g AH

- polydimethylsiloxane (MIRASIL 300 fy. RHODIA CHIMIE) 5 g

- polydimethylsiloxane (DC200 FLUID-60.000CS fy, DOW CORNING) 1 g

- perfumes, preservatives as needed

- add water to 100 g

Apply this product to washed and dried hair. Leave it on for 2 minutes and rinse with water.

Hair treated in this way after shampooing is soft, smooth, and easy to detangle.

EXAMPLE 2:

According to the invention, a conditioner was prepared for application after shampooing the hair, with the following composition:

- mixture of glycerol mono-, di- and tristearate 1 g

- glycerin 0.5 g

- aqueous solution of Polyquaternium-11 with 20% AH (GAFQUAT 755 from ISP) 0.5 g AH

- aqueous-alcoholic solution of Polyquaternium-30 with 22% AH (MEXOMERE PX fy. CHINMEX) 0.55 g AH

- behemyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP phy. CLARIANT) 1.45 g AH

- cationic emulsion with 67% AH of polydimethylsiloxane copolymer

- with hydrogenated α,ω groups (DC-1997 fy. DOW CORNING) 0.8 g AH

- mixture of cetyl alcohol and steryl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 4 g

- perfume, preservative as needed

- add water to 100 g

EXAMPLE 3:

According to the invention, a conditioner was prepared for application after washing the hair with shampoo, with the following composition:

- mixture of glycerol mono, di- and tristearate 0.5 g

- behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP fy. CLARIANT) 1.2 g AH

4 4 • 4444·

4

444 ·

4 4 4

44

- cationic emulsion with 67% AH of polydimethylsiloxane copolymer with α,ω hydrogenated groups (DC-1997 by DOW CORNING) 1.4 g AH

- mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 3 g

- lauryldimethylconecopolyol with 91% AH (Q2-5200 fy. DOW CORNING) 0.23 g AH

- perfume, preservatives as needed

- add water to 100 g

EXAMPLE 4:

According to the invention, a conditioner was prepared after washing the hair with shampoo with the following composition:

- a mixture of myristate, palmitate and myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate 0.5 g

- behemyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP phy. CLARIANT) 1.2 g AH

- N-oleolyldihydrosphingosine

- cationic emulsion with 67% AH of polydimethylsiloxane copolymer with α,ω vinyl groups/polydimethylsiloxane with α,ω hydrogenated groups (DC-1997 by DOW CORNING)

- a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight)

- methylalkylalkylamidoethylimidazole methosulfate as a solution of 75% AH in propylene glycol (REWOQUAT W 75 PG by REWO)

- lauryldimethylconecopolyol with 91% AH

- perfume, preservative

- water

0.01g

1.36g AH 3g

0.05 g AH 0.23 g AHk, add as needed to 100 g

Industrial applicability:

The invention will find wide application in cosmetics and care for keratinous structures of the human body such as skin and its hair, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and lips, especially in washing, dyeing, curling and straightening hair.

Claims (17)

PATENT CLAIMS 1- A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one cationic surfactant and one emulsion comprising at least one silicone copolymer with a viscosity in the range of 10 ⁶ to 100 ^{10 6} cP in a cosmetically acceptable environment _; which is the result of an additive reaction in the presence of a catalyst - (a) a polysiloxane of formula (I) and r ₂ R — Sir ₂ Ro Rn o — SiRo O — SiI Ro -R < in which R 1 denotes a group capable of reacting by an additive chain attachment such as a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, R ₂ groups of formula (I) containing C 1 -C 20 alkyl groups, cycloalkyls having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, aryl, alkylaryls having 7 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyl and having a (III) content, inter alia, ether, carboxyl, hydroxyl, thiol, ester, sulfonate and sulfate functionalities, n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of formula ( I) preferably has a kinematic viscosity in the range of 1 to 1.10 ^{to 6} mm ² / s _Í (b) at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and at most two groups capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of polysiloxane (a), wherein at least one of the compounds of type (a) or (b) comprises an aliphatic group with ethylene unsaturation. ΒΒ ΒΒ Β Β • Β Β Β Β Β «Β Β ΒΒΒΒ Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β ΒΒΒ Β Β Β Β Β ΒΒΒ ΒΒΒ ΒΒ 2 - Composition according to claim 1, characterized by a fact that R ₂ denotes methyl. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound of type (b) is another polysiloxane of type (a) in which the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane type (b) are capable of reacting with the R 1 groups of the polysiloxane (a). A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is obtained in the presence of a dihydrosilylation catalyst by an additive reaction of at least (a) one α, ω divinyl polydimethylsiloxane and - (b) one α, ω dihydrogeno polydimethylsiloxane. and A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by the fact that said silicone copolymer emulsion has a droplet or silicone particle size of between 10 nm and 50,000 nm, preferably between 300 nm and 20,000 nm. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous emulsion of the silicone copolymer is 0.5 to 15% by weight. percent of the total formulation. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is present in a concentration of between 0.05 and 10% w / w of the total composition. A formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant is selected from (A) - quaternary ammonium salts of the following general formula (VI) X ' R ' R '(IV), • 4 • 4 • 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Wherein X is an anion selected in the group of halides (chlorides, bromides, iodides) or alkyl (C2- _C6 ) sulfates, more specifically methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate or lactate, and The radicals R 1 to R ₃ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or such aromatic radicals such as aryl or alkyls The aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens, R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having 16 to 30 carbon atoms, ii) the radicals R and R _2, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical having 1-4 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl Aliphatic the radicals may contain heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens / phosphatic radicals are, for example, selected from alkyl, alkoxy, alkyl amide and C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, R 3 and R 4, identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical containing at least one ester or amide group. R 3 and R 4 are particularly selected among alkyl radicals alkyl (C 12 -C 14) amido alkyl (C 2 -C 6), alkyl (C ₁₂ -C 22) acetate, B) (V) imidazole quaternary ammonium salts, such as the one with the following formula + R _c Γ CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R ₈ ) -CO-R ₅ N 4 N < (V) wherein R ₅ denotes an alkenyl or alkyl radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R <5 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl radical in C1-C4 alkyl or alkenyl or alkyl radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical 9 9 9999 9 9 φ ·· 99 98 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9,999 99,99 R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion selected in the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates, C) - quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) (VI) _{y 9} - N- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NR 2'3 γ '14 ^ 13 ++ 2X wherein R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical of 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13 and R 14, identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected in the halide group , acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates, quaternary diammonium salts include, in particular, propanesuif diammonium dichloride, D) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, of the following formula (VII) O (C _r H _2r O) -R R, -C- (OC _n H 2 _n ) -N- (C _p H _{2 p} O) -R (VII) R in which ^{1 '15} - R 15 is selected from alkyl radicals at C 1 -C 6 and hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyls at C 1 -C ₆ , - Riój selected between O II - radical ^ ¹⁹ θ - C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - a hydrogen atom - Rig is selected between O II R ^ C- by radical ·· ·· • 9 9 · 9 9 999 999 - hydrocarbon radicals R 22 to C 1 -C 6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - a hydrogen atom, - R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon radicals at C7C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, n, p, r being the same or different units of 2 to 6, y being a unit of 1 to 10, x, z are the same or different units with values from 0 to 10, X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum of x + y + z equals 1 to 15 and that if x equals 0, then R 16 denotes R 20 and that if z equals 0, then Ru denotes R 22 . A composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the so-called cationic surfactants of formula (IV) are selected from those containing at least two C 8 to C 30 fatty chains, those containing at least one C 16 to C 16 fatty chain and those containing at least one aromatic radical. - A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the so-called cationic surfactant is selected from behenyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (miristylacetate) ammonium salts, Quatemiem-27 or Quaterniem-83. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is present at a concentration of between 0.5 and 20% by weight of the total composition, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains, inter alia, at least one surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof. ΦΦ φ φ · φ φ φ φ • • φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ φ The composition according to claim 12, characterized in that one or more surfactants are present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 60 percent by weight, preferably between 3 and 40 percent, and most preferably between 5 and 30 percent of the total formulation. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is ^! · Presented as a shampoo, rinse or non-rinse conditioner after washing - shampoo, rinse aid to be applied between two stages of one permanent waving or straightening of hair, body washes. ř * 15 - Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims for washing or treatment of keratin formations. A composition for the treatment of keratin formations such as hair, characterized in that it comprises the application of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to these formations, followed by optionally rinsing with water. 17 - Use of a silicone copolymer emulsion as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6 in the manufacture or manufacture of a cosmetic composition containing a cationic surfactant.