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MXPA00010162A - Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and a silicone and their use - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and a silicone and their use

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Publication number
MXPA00010162A
MXPA00010162A MXPA/A/2000/010162A MXPA00010162A MXPA00010162A MX PA00010162 A MXPA00010162 A MX PA00010162A MX PA00010162 A MXPA00010162 A MX PA00010162A MX PA00010162 A MXPA00010162 A MX PA00010162A
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MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
groups
silicone
composition according
composition
weight
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/2000/010162A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Decoster Sandrine
Bailly Virginie
Douin Veronique
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of MXPA00010162A publication Critical patent/MXPA00010162A/en

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Abstract

Cosmetic composition, contains an emulsion(s) comprising a silicone copolymer(s) of viscosity 10<6>to 10<8>cP obtained by reacting a polysiloxane (I) and a silicone compound(s) with at least two groups reactive with the terminal groups of (I) using a catalyst, at least one of them containing one or two ethylenically unsaturated aliphatic groups. Cosmetic composition, comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, a silicone(s) and an emulsion(s) comprising a silicone copolymer of viscosity 10<6>to 10<8>cP obtained by reacting a polysiloxane (A) of formula (I) and a silicone compound(s) (B) with at least two groups reactive with the terminal groups of (I) using a catalyst, at least one of (A) and (B) containing one or two ethylenically unsaturated aliphatic groups:R1-Si(R2)2-(-O-Si(R2)2-)n-O-Si(R2)2-R1 (I) R1=H or ethylenically unsaturated group, particularly vinyl, allyl or hexenyl;R2=1-20C alkyl, 5-6C cycloalkyl, 7-20C aralkyl or OH optionally with ether, amino, carboxyl, hydr oxyl, thiol, ester, sulfonate or sulfate groups;and n=number giving a viscosity of 1 to 10<6>mm<2>/s.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A COPOLYMER VINILDIMETICONÁ / DIMETICONA AND A SILICONE AND ITS UTILIZATIONS.
Field of the Invention The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one silicone and at least one dimethicone copolymer of ethylenic unsaturation / dimethicone.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION It is well known that hair that has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or fragilized) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as colorations, discolorations and / or permanent, are often difficult to untangle and comb, and lack softness. Compositions for the washing or treatment of keratin materials such as hair have already been recommended in the compositions REF. : 124178 -tM ----- «- l --- mÉ * ÉlittMi-i-t t fl.? t lt. 1, -p i, - ",,. - .. *, "'" • * "« •' - • • • -. ....,... -., ._, ....- -. »-». - ^ u Of conditioning agents, particularly cationic polymers or silicones, to facilitate the disentangling of the hair and to impart softness and flexibility, however, the cosmetic advantages mentioned above are unfortunately also accompanied, in dry hair, of certain cosmetic effects judged undesirable, namely a caking of the hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair), a lack of smoothing 10 (inhomogeneous hair from the root to the tip), In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose presents several disadvantages. strong affinity for the hair, some of these polymers are importantly deposited in repeated uses, and lead to undesirable effects such as unpleasant, heavy touch, a stiffness of the hair, and an adhesion of interfibers that affects the hairstyle. disadvantages are accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lacks vividness and volume. In summary, it happens that current cosmetic compositions containing silicones do not completely satisfy. The applicant has now discovered that the association of at least one copolymer "" * - «« - -V- * i ^ -. . .. .. -4 *.. "".
Silicone with a viscosity between 10d and 100.106 cP with silicones allows to remedy these drawbacks. Thus, as a consequence of important investigations carried out on the subject, it has now been discovered by the applicant that by introducing at least one particular silicone copolymer of viscosity comprised between 106 and 100'6 cP in the particular capillary compositions of the prior art based on of silicones, it is possible to limit, even suppress, the problems generally related to the use of such compositions, namely in particular the caking (touch loaded in repeated applications), the lack of smoothing and softness of the hair, maintaining the other cosmetic properties advantageous that are inherent in the compositions based on conditioning agents. On the other hand, the compositions of the invention applied to the skin, particularly in the form of a foaming bath or shower gel, provide an improvement in the softness of the skin.
Description of the Invention Thus, according to the present invention, new cosmetic compositions are proposed, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one siliconized copolymer defined below, with a viscosity comprised between 106 and 100. 106 cP and at least one silicone. Another object of the invention relates to the use of at least one silicone copolymer as defined below with a viscosity comprised between 10d and 100,106 cP in or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a silicone. The different objects of the invention will be detailed below. The set of meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for the set of objects of the invention. The siliconed copolymer results from the addition reaction, in the presence of a catalyst of at least: - (a) a polysiloxane of formula (I) I * R.-Si- O-Si- O-Si- • R? O) I I R, R * wherein: R1 designates a group capable of reacting by chain addition reaction such as for example a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group with an ethylenic unsaturation particularly vinyl, allyl or hexenyl. The groups R2 of the formula (I) can represent, in particular, alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or hydroxyl groups and can further comprise functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulphates. The alkyl groups have, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl groups have, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; aryl groups are particularly phenyl groups; the alkylaryl groups may have from 7 to 20 carbon atoms. More particularly R2 denotes methyl. 25 n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of '- ^^ "•'" • - "'^ - Ha-ÜiÉaáÉ-h-dHI-B ..... .... A ....; .... -á --- ti The formula (I) preferably has a kinematic viscosity comprised between 1 and 1,106 mm2 / s, particularly ranges from 5 to 5000. (b) and at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and at most two groups capable of reacting with the Rl groups of the polysiloxane (a), at least one of the compounds of type (a) or (b) contains an aliphatic group having an ethylenic unsaturation The compounds of type (b) are another polysiloxane of type (a) in the which groups Rl of the polysiloxane (b) are capable of reacting with the Rl groups of the polysiloxane (a) Preferably, the silicone copolymers are obtained in particular by addition reaction, in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst (for example a platinum), of at least: - (a) an alpha, omega-divinylpolydimeti lsiloxane, and - (b) an alpha, omega-dihydrogen polydimethylsiloxane. The copolymer generally has a dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of about 25 ° C and a shear rate of 0.01 Hz for a voltage of 1500 Pa, comprised between 10d and 100,106 cP and preferably between 5,106 cP and 30,106 cP.
All measurements of dynamic viscosities given in the present application have been made at a temperature of about 25 ° C, in a Carri-Med CSL2-500. The kinematic viscosity is measured, for example, at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445, Appendix C. The silicone copolymers according to the invention are essentially non-crosslinked. The silicone copolymer present in the composition according to the invention can be in the form of an aqueous emulsion. By aqueous emulsion is meant an oil-in-water type emulsion in which the siliconed copolymer is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase which forms the continuous phase of the emulsion. This emulsion can be stabilized by a usual emulsifier system. This silicone emulsion may have a size of droplets or silicone particles between 10 nm and 50 μm, and preferably between 0.3 μm and 20 μm. The size of the particles is measured by laser granulometry. The emulsifier system comprises surfactants commonly used in silicone emulsions. These surfactants can be non-ionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric or their mixtures such as those described below. The emulsifier system represents 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The synthesis of these silicone emulsions is described in particular in EP-A-10 874017. Such emulsions are sold in particular under the name DC2-1997 cationic emulsion by the company Dow Corning. This emulsion comprises a copolymer, w-15 divinyldimethicone /, ts-dihydrogenodimethicone with a dynamic viscosity of about 15,106 cP, a cationic emulsifier such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, a stabilizer of the hydroxyethylcellulose type and water. The silicone copolymer is preferably used in an amount between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount is between 0.1 and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. ^^ t-M-i-i-Éi-á-a-ia- -.
The silicones other than the silicone copolymer which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in the composition and can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are chosen more particularly among those having a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and more particularly still between: (i) the cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably from 4 to 5. These are, for example, octamethylcyclohetetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type -d-H-a-OU-i-U-α-lia-ß-t-l-Hl-i dimethylsiloxanes / methylalkylsiloxane, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure: with D.- - - Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxy- (hexa-2, 2). , 2 ', 2', 3, 3 '-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ~ 6m2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, the decamethyl tetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. The silicones that fall into this class are also described in the article published in Cosraetics and toiletries, vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 TODD & BYERS "volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics".
Preference is given to using non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof. These silicones are more particularly chosen among polyalkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal groups may be mentioned in particular. trimethylsilyl with a viscosity of 5.10"6 by 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10" 5 by 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25 ° C according to ASTM 445, Appendix C. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, they can be to quote, without limitation, the following commercial products: - SILBIONE oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500,000; 20 - oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by the company RHONE POULENC; the oils of the series 20 of the company DOW CORNING such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; 25 - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain • jg ^^^ M ^^^ g & oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the designation CTFA) such as the oils of series 48 of the company RHONE POULENC. In this class of Isiloxane polyalki, it is also possible to mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the GOLDSCHMIDT company which are polyalkyl (C? -C20) siloxanes. Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethylmethyl phenyl siloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl di-phenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1.10"5 a . 10 ~ 2m2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylaryl siloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE oils of series 70 641 of RHONE POULENC; - the oils of the series RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 of RHONE POULENC; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil of •, -,., ..., .. ,, - - ... "!.-........ , .. *. . ...... - ^ .. i ¿* ... *. ~. «DOW CORNING; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER as the PK20 product; - the silicones of the PN series, PH of BAYER as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums used according to the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000 000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), poly phenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutyl, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof. The following products can be mentioned more particularly: polydimethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / di-phenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, -l-Mlu ^ L - «-? - i- polydimethylsiloxane / di phenyl siloxane / methylvinylsiloxane. The most particularly usable products according to the invention are mixtures such as: mixtures formed from a chain-end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane (called dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (so-called cyclomethicone according to the invention). the dictionary nomenclature CTFA) such as product Q2 1401 marketed by the Dow Corning Company; • mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid of the Company GENERAL ELECTRIC, 'this product is an SF 30 rubber corresponding to a dimethicone, with a number-average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; • mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10"6m2 / s This product preferably comprises 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used according to the invention are cross-linked siloxane systems including the units: R2Si02 2 , R3SiO2, RSi03 / 2 and Si04 / 2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a radical lower alkyl of C 1 -C 4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical Among these resins, mention may be made of the product marketed under the name "DOW CORNING 593" or those sold under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the General Electric Company and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure, it is also possible to mention the resins of the trimethylsiloxy silicate type marketed in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21-5037 by the SHIN-ETSU Company. The organo-modified silicones which can be used according to the invention are silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon radical. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the designation DC 1248 or SILWET oils L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C 2) methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the designation Q2 5200; - amino groups substituted or not as the products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the Company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are in particular the aminoalkyl groups of C? ~ C4. quaternary ammonium groups such as the products marketed under the names ABILQUAT 3272 and ABILQUAT 3474 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, - thiol groups such as the products . . , ». * ,. ... - ^ ....,. "... .. ... ... «, ...- .. ... » marketed under the denominations "GP 72A" and "GP 71" of GENESEE; alkoxylated groups as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxylated groups such as the hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes described in French patent application FR-A-85 16334 corresponding to formula (IX): (IX) wherein the identical or different R3 radicals are chosen from the methyl and phenyl radicals; designating at least 60 mole% of the radicals R, methyl; the radical R'3 is a divalent hydrocarbon alkylene linkage of C2-C? e; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is between 1 and 150 inclusive; U-W-H-i-i-M-d-l d-t-al-l "'" "- -" - acyloxyalkyl groups such as for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732 and corresponding to the formula (X): wherein: R4 designates a methyl group, phenyl, -OCOR5 hydroxyl, a single of the radicals R4 per silicon atom which may be OH; R '4 designates methyl, phenyl; at least 60% in molar ratio of the group of the radicals R4 and R '4 designates methyl; R5 designates C6-C20 alkyl or alkenyl; R "designates a divalent, linear or branched alkylene hydrocarbon radical of C2-C: s: r is comprised between 1 and 120 inclusive, p is between 1 and 30, q is equal to 0 or is less than 0.5 while p, p + q comprised between 1 and 30, the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) may contain groups: CH, -Si-OH I O in proportions that do not exceed 15% of the sum of p + q + r. anionic groups of the carboxylic type, such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in product X-22.3701E of SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkylsulphonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL 5255". hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the application EP 342,834. Mention may be made, for example, of product Q2-8413 from the Dow Corning Company. According to the invention, it is also possible to use silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of an illicit non-s organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main polymer chain by grafting the other into said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578. EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US Patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic. Such polymers are, for example, copolymers capable of being obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture consisting of a) from 50 to 90% by weight of tertiobutyl acrylate; 15 b) from 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) from 5 to 40% by weight of. silicone macromer of formula: - (CH; .- -CH. where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700; 25 calculating the percentages by weight in relation to the '-? ti -tifwmr * --- "" - * - •' - ~ * • - * * - "• - '- * •• >' '« * & • - - «- weight Total of the monomers Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which, by means of a thiopropylene-type binding link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly type are grafted. (meth) alkyl acrylate and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which, by means of a thiopropylene-type linking link, polymeric units of isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate type are bonded in accordance with the invention, all silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions, of nanoemulsions or microemulsions. Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are: the non-volatile silicones selected from the polyalkylsiloxane family with trimethylsilyl end groups such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C such as oils of the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular the one with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the oil 70 047 V 500 000 marketed by the RHONE Company ^^^ m? ^^ POULENC, polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethyols or polyalkylaryl siloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil marketed by the company RHONE POULENC; - the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name DOW CORNING 593; - polysiloxanes with aminated groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicone; - the polysiloxanes with quaternary ammonium groups. According to the invention, the silicone (s) can represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. The compositions of the invention may further contain at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants or their mixtures which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and also more preferably between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The surfactants that are suitable for the embodiment of the present invention are particularly the following: (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Its nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a truly critical character. Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used alone or as a mixture, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali metal salts, particularly sodium salts, ammonium, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; the alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; the alkylsulfosuccinates, the alkylether sulfosuccinates, the alkylamide sulfosuccinates; the alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsul foacetates; alkylether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; the acyl isethionates and the N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical comprising all of these different A - ^^ - ^ M _- ^ _-_ ^ ___ ^^ _ ^^^^ __ ^ _ ^^^^^^ _ ^ __ b - ^ - ^ - ^ - ^ --- t¿-: compounds preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical designating preferably a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, pcinoléic, palmitic, stearic acids, copra oil acids or hydrogenated copra oil; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use poorly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl aryl ether acids, alkyl acids (Cd-C24) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and its salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulphates and their mixtures according to the invention. (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s) Non-ionic surfactants are, .....-, .. .- ,. -,. , «-» -. * •. - • * ", ..- ..,,. . -, ... «.. ^ - ^ fa ^ they too, compounds well known per se (see particularly in this respect" Handbook of surfactants "by MR PORTER, Blackie &Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178) and its nature does not, within the framework of the present invention, be critical. Thus, alcohols, alkylsols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids with a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms can be chosen from among the (non-limiting list), the number of which can be varied. of oxide groups of ethylene or propylene oxide, in particular between 2 and 50, and the number of glycerol groups can vary particularly between 2 and 30. Ethylene oxide and propylene copolymers, ethylene oxide condensates and the like can also be mentioned. of propylene on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; the oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (C 1 -C 4) amines or oxides of N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be appreciated that the alkyl polyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that come particularly well within the scope of the present invention. (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not critical in the context of the present invention, can be particularly (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines , in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C Q -C 2 O) amidoalkyl (C x) ^ y * ^^^^ - ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ .j ^^^^ 3 ^ & ^ M ^^ g ^ (jj ^ C6) betaines or the alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C? ~ Cß) sulphobetaines. Among the derivatives of amines, there may be mentioned the products marketed under the name MIRANOL, such as those described in US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures: R2-C0NHCH2CH2-N (R3) (R4) (CH2COO) (2) wherein: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 designates a betahydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; Y R5- CONHCH2CH2 -N (B) (C) (3) wherein: B represents -CH2-CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) ZY, with Z = l or 2, X' designates the group -CH2CH2-C00H or a hydrogen atom Y 'designates -COOH or the radical - CH2-CH0H-S03H R5 designates an alkyl radical of an acid R9 -COOH present in the copra oil or in the hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, particularly of C, C9, Cu or C13, an alkyl radical of C1 and its 5 iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, 10 Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodiun Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodippropionic 15 acid, Cocoamphodipropionio acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC. In the compositions according to the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly mixture • ^ t ^. ^ -v? i ^ *, ^,. . . . . .... i, ..-...... I: - * «tot,., v ...,. . . ..,. . V ^ Z tt &? preferred is a mixture constituted by at least one anionic surfactant and by at least one amphoteric surfactant. Preferably, an anionic surfactant selected from among sodium (C 2 -Ci 4) sulfates, triethanolamine or ammonium alkyl, sodium (C 2 -C 4) alkyl e-tersulfates, triethanolamine or of oxyethylenated ammonium in 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, cocoyl isethionate Sodium and sodium alphadefine (C? -Ci6) sulfonate and mixtures thereof with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives termed disodiumcococamphodipropionate or Sodiumcocoanopropionate marketed in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution with 38% active substance or under the name MIRANOL C32; 20 - or a zwitterionic amphoteric surfactant such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine marketed under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in 32% aqueous solution of MA by the company HENKEL. 25 Even more preferably the compositions M-lMU-l-l --- k-i-ri-i Huriil-l- -rilkh-.Mt > according to the invention, they can also contain at least one cationic surfactant. The cationic surfactants can be chosen from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following general formula (IV): wherein X is an anion selected from the group 15 of the halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C2-C) sulfates more particularly methylsulfate, phosphates, alkyl-o-alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, and yi) radicals Ri to R3, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl . The aliphatic radicals can ^^^ s ^^^^ j ^^ 5 || i¡¡jg »^ gg ^^^^^ d ^ comprise heteroatoms such as particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from the radicals alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide, R 4 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyl trimethyl ammonium. ii) the radicals Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from the alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals, including approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, linear or branched, including from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. ^ g ^ R3 and R4 are particularly chosen from alkyl (C2-C22) to (C2-C6) alkyl radicals; alkyl (C 2 -C 22) acetate; Preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of ammonium stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl lacetate). B) - the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium, for example that of the following formula (V): wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms for example derived from the fatty acids of tallow, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of C? -C4 or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of C? -C, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, -áM-t-kl - ^ - ri-ri-d --- aÍÉiMáhi phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl-o-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R5 and Re denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from the fatty acids of tallow, R7 denotes methyl, R8 denotes hydrogen. A product of this kind is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) marketed under the names "REWOQUAT" W 5, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the WITCO Company, C) - salts of diammonium quaternary of formula (VI): wherein R9 designates an aliphatic radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, Rio, Rn, R12, R13 and Ri, identical or different are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms , and X is an anion selected from the group halogenides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such quaternary ammonium salts particularly comprise propanosebo diammonium dichloride. D) - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (VI E) below: wherein: - R15 is chosen from the C? -C6 alkyl radicals and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals of C? -C6; - Laugh is chosen from: O - the radical R? 9_c_ - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C? -C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, - the hydrogen atom, - Ris is chosen from - the radical R2. { c ~ 5 - branched, saturated or unsaturated linear C? -C6 hydrocarbon radicals R22 - the hydrogen atom, - R17, R19 and R2 ?, identical or different, are chosen from the hydrocarbon radicals of C -C2? linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - n, p and r, identical or different, are integers that are worth 2 to 6; - and is an integer that is worth 1 to 10; - x and z, identical or different, are integers 15 that are worth 0 to 10; X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum of x + y + z equals 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R? 6 20 designates R2o and that when z is 0 then Ri8 designates R22. More particularly used are the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which: - R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, 25 - x and y are equal to 1; ^^^^ - z is equal to O or 1; - n, p and r are equal to 2; - R? 6 is chosen from: O - the Ri9 radical - methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon radicals of C ?4-C22 - the hydrogen atom; - Rp, R19 and R21 identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals of C7-C2 ?, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - Ría is chosen from: Or you - the radical R2? ~ c ~ -the hydrogen atom. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STE-PANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Among the quaternary ammonium salts, behenyl ethyl acetate, or else, stearamidopropyl dimethyl chloride, are preferred. (myristyl acetate) ammonium marketed under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the VAN DYK Company, the Quaternium-27 or the Quaternium-83 marketed by the WITCO Company. The cationic surfactant is generally present in concentrations ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.5 and 7% by weight and more preferably between 1 and 5% by weight . The composition of the invention can It also contains at least one additive selected from among thickeners, perfumes, pearlizing agents, preservatives, siliconized or non-siliconized sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, cationic, amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic polymers. ions, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyleicosanóic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, vegetable oils, animals, minerals, synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, and any other additive classically used in the cosmetic field that does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range between 0 and 20% by weight in relation to - ¿. ^ '..,. * i. ^ ... to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is easily determined by the person skilled in the art according to its nature and function. The compositions according to the invention can be used more particularly for washing or treating keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair. The compositions according to the invention can be compositions after washing with shampoo to rinse or not. The compositions according to the invention can also be detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels, foaming baths and can also be make-up removers. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, generally aqueous. The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be indistinctly chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as defined above. The quantity and quality of the washing base are sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as skin or hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition on the keratin materials as defined above, then optionally rinsing with water. Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the styling, the treatment, the care or the washing or the make-up of the skin, of the hair or of any other keratin material. The compositions of the invention can also be in the form of compositions for perming, straightening, coloring or decolorization, or else in the form of rinsing compositions, of applying before or after coloring, decolouration, perming or straightening or also between the two stages of a permanent or an aligned. The compositions according to the invention can also be presented in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or of the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thick lotion or foam and can be used for the skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly the hair. The compositions can be packaged in various forms, particularly in vaporizers, sprays or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of the hair. In all that follows or the foregoing, the percentages expressed are by weight. The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the help of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting the described embodiments. In the examples, MA means active material.
EXAMPLE 1 A preparation was prepared after shampooing according to the invention with the following composition: - Mixture of myristate, palmitate and myristyl stearate, cetyl and stearyl 1 g - Cetyl alcohol 5 g 15 - Hydroxyethylcellulose (MW 1,300,000) 0.25 g - Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) 1 g MA - 67 cationic emulsion % MA of polydimethylsiloxane copolymer with alpha-omega 20 vinyl / polydimethylsiloxane groups with alpha-omega hydrogen groups (DC-1997 from DOW CORNING) 0.8 g MA - Polydimethylsiloxane (NIRASIL DM300 from RHODIA CHIMIE) 5 g 25 - Polydimethylsiloxane (DC200 FLUID- 60,000CS of -) ¡¡- «-? Tt- --fe-f-¡- i MUJÉM SL DOW CORNING) 1 g - perfume, preservatives is - Water "esp 100 g This composition was applied on washed and drained hair. It was left to rest for 2 minutes, then rinsed with water. The hair treated with this preparation after washing with shampoo is smooth, smooth and easily unraveled.
EXAMPLE 2 A preparation was prepared after shampooing according to the invention with the following composition: - 67% cationic emulsion of polydimethylsiloxane copolymer MA with alpha-omega vinyl / polydimethylsiloxane groups with alpha-omega hydrogen groups (DC-1997 of DOW CORNING) 0.7 g MA SMDI copolymer / polyethylene glycol / - 15% alkyl (methyl / C18) terminations in a maltodextrin / water matrix (ACULYN 46 from ROHM &HAAS) 0.45 gMA Homopolymer ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride crosslinked in 50% inverse emulsion in mineral oil (SALCARE SC 95 of CIBA GEIGY 0.55 gMA - Polydimethylsiloxane (MIRASIL DM50 from RHODIA CHIMIE) 1 g - Mix of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 6 g - Perfume, preservatives is - Water esp 100 g It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant, to implement said invention is that which is clear from the manufacture of the objects to which it refers. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following.

Claims (21)

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one silicone and at least one silicone copolymer with a viscosity comprised between 106 and 100.106 cP resulting from the addition reaction, in the presence of a catalyst, of less: - (a) a polysiloxane of formula (I): R, R.-Si- -o-S¡- O-Si- R1) I I I * 2, «2 wherein: R1 designates a group capable of reacting by chain addition reaction such as for example a hydrogen atom, a monounsaturated ethylenic aliphatic group particularly vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, the R2 groups of the formula (I) represent alkyl groups , which have from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, cycloalkyl with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, aryl, JOM, alkylaryl with 7 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyl, and may further comprise functional groups such as ethers, amines, carboxyls, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates, sulfates. 5 n is an integer such that the polysiloxane of formula (I) preferably has a kinematic viscosity comprised between 1 and 1,106 mm2 / s. (b) and of at least one silicone compound comprising at least one and at most two groups 10 capable of reacting with the Ri groups of the polysiloxane (a), at least one of the compounds of type (a) or (b) containing an aliphatic group with an ethylenic unsaturation. fifteen
2. composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R2 designates methyl. twenty
3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound of type (b) is another polysiloxane of 25 type (a) in which the Ri groups of the polysiloxane aM-üi-i-tf-faith-iiSkM-. -., .., .-. ,, ... ..., ^., "S. (b) are susceptible to react with the Rx groups of the polysiloxane (a).
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is obtained by addition reaction, in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst, of at least: - (a) an alpha, omega-divinylpolydimethylsiloxane, and - (b) an alpha-omega-dihydrogen polydimethylsiloxane.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is in the form of an aqueous emulsion.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone copolymer is present at a concentration comprised between 0.05 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. . -. i < . -. . ' . , ",. ^, J »J-Ü.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are polyorganosiloxanes selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups as well as their mixtures .
8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that: (a) the polyalkylsiloxanes are chosen from: the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups; polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups; - the polyalkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes; (b) the polyalkylaryl siloxanes are chosen from: polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of between 1.10"5 and 5.10" 2m2 / s at 25 ° C; (c) the silicone gums are chosen from the polydiorganosiloxanes having number average molecular masses between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent; (d) the resins are chosen from the resins consisting of units: R3 Si 0? / 2, R2 Si 02/2, R Si 03/2, Yes 04/2. wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; (e) organically modified silicones are chosen from silicones which comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon radical.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the silicone gums used alone or in the form of a mixture are chosen from the following structures: polydi-ethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / di-phenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane , polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxanes and the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a chain end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane; mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum and a cyclic silicone; and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes of different viscosities.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the organomodified silicones are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups; amino groups substituted or not; thiol groups; alkoxylated groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, alkyl carboxylic groups, ----- LÉ-h-l-A-ÍÍÍ - «l-i-M - a h) 2-hydroxyalkyl sulphonate groups, i) 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphates groups, j) hydroxyacylamino groups, k) quaternary ammonium groups.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are selected from polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilyl end groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two PDMSs consisting of a gum and by an oil of different viscosities, the mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones, the resins of organopolysiloxanes, the polysiloxanes of groups, the polysiloxanes with quaternary ammonium groups.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from the insoluble polyorganosiloxanes in the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone is present at a concentration comprised between 0.001% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures.
15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at one. concentration between 0.1% and 601 by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is present at concentrations ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.5 and 7% by weight and more preferably between 1 and 5% by weight.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of shampoo, after washing with rinse shampoo or not, of composition for perming, straightening, coloring or discoloration of the hair , of composition to clarify to be applied between the two stages of a permanent or of a spraying, of washing composition for the body. '-' "- * '" - ^ • "" * - < •
19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, for washing or for treating keratin materials.
20. Process for the treatment of keratin materials, such as hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 18 on said materials, then optionally rinsing with water.
21. Use of a silicone copolymer as defined in one of claims 1 to 5 in or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a silicone.
MXPA/A/2000/010162A 1999-10-20 2000-10-17 Cosmetic compositions containing a vinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer and a silicone and their use MXPA00010162A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9913096 1999-10-20

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MXPA00010162A true MXPA00010162A (en) 2002-07-25

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