CN1675421A - Woven or knit fabric and process for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

A woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising polyester fibers of low titanium oxide content; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising polyester staple fibers obtained by graft polymerization of a hydrophilic compound; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising side by side crimped staple fibers; a woven or knit fabric comprising air-jet interlacing spun yarns comprising low-shrinkage staple fibers and copolymerized polyester staple fibers; and a process for producing these. A woven or knit fabric of polyester staple fibers that is bulky, excelling in moisture retention, lightweightness, water absorptivity, quick dryability, etc. and exhibits excellent anti-pilling properties can be obtained.

Description

Fabric and method for its manufacture

technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of fabric (woven or knit fabric) and its manufacturing method, more specifically, relate to a kind of fabric containing air-jet interlacing spun yarns (air-jet interlacing spun yarns) and its manufacturing method.

The present invention is constituted by four inventions of first to fourth.

The first invention of the present invention relates to a fabric composed of air-jet entangled spun yarns containing polyester staple fibers, which can exhibit ultraviolet shielding effect, penetration resistance, and pilling resistance by a mechanism different from conventional ones. Furthermore, it relates to a polyester staple fiber-containing fabric that exhibits pilling resistance and is excellent in water absorption and quick-drying properties without using a special modified polyester.

The second invention relates to a fabric composed of air-jet entangled spun yarns containing polyester staple fibers that has both hygroscopicity and pilling resistance, and further relates to a fabric that can improve the disadvantages of conventional graft polymerization processed fibers. Poor properties, dimensional instability when wet, wrinkling, low dryness, slippery feeling, etc.

The third invention relates to a short-fiber fabric having excellent bulkiness composed of air-jet entangled spun yarns containing side-by-side crimped staple fibers, and relates to a bulky, heat-retaining, light-weight, water-absorbing and quick-drying property, etc., and has A staple fiber fabric with excellent pilling resistance and a method of making the same.

The fourth invention relates to a staple fiber fabric having excellent bulkiness composed of air-jet entangled spun yarns containing low-shrinkage staple fibers and copolyester staple fibers, and relates to a bulky, heat-retaining, lightweight, water-absorbing and quick-drying fabric The invention relates to a polyester staple fiber fabric having excellent anti-pilling properties and a manufacturing method thereof.

Background technique

Conventional methods for obtaining polyester fiber fabrics with anti-permeability and ultraviolet shielding effects include the method of using polyester fibers rubbed with titanium oxide inside the fibers, the method of adding ultraviolet absorbers to the surface of gray fabrics, and the method of high-density fabrics. The method of ground weaving, etc. In particular, the so-called full-dull fiber containing a large amount of titanium oxide inside the fiber, as described in Patent No. 2888504, is widely used in clothing and the like because of its excellent permeability resistance and ultraviolet shielding effect. However, the dull yarn with a titanium oxide content of more than 3.0% by mass will cause severe wear and tear on the yarn guide, silk path and reed, and induce hair and broken ends. It is obviously limited in expressing bright colors that can be obtained with ordinary polyester fibers. In order to prevent the above-mentioned shortcomings, someone has proposed a method of making a composite fiber with a fiber containing more titanium oxide as a fiber core and an ordinary fiber as a sheath, but the cost of this method is high and the quality is unstable. The method of adding a UV absorber through post-processing will harden the texture and increase the cost.

On the other hand, as polyester fibers emphasizing water-absorbing and quick-drying properties, long fibers having circular cross-sections made of conventional ultrafine fibers and irregular cross-sections such as L-shaped, W-shaped, and Y-shaped have been proposed. The above-mentioned fibers have excellent water absorption and quick-drying properties due to their increased fiber surface area, reduced inter-fiber voids, and improved capillary imaging effect, so they are often used in sportswear that requires light weight and gloss. Hollow fibers are generally used as lightweight insulating materials among polyester staple fibers, but the ultraviolet absorption effect and visible light transmittance exhibited by the present invention cannot be expected due to weak diffuse reflection on the surface of the fibers.

As the anti-pilling polyester fibers, organic sulfonic acid-based copolyester fibers and modified polyester fibers containing phosphorus etc. are mainly used (eg, JP-A-7-173718 and JP-A-8-13274). For the above-mentioned fibers, the fiber strength is reduced in the resin or spinning and stretching process, and further promotes the reduction of fiber strength (knot strength) under the conditions of the dyeing process, so that the hairiness on the surface of the gray cloth is easy to fall off, In addition to fabrics, it is also used for blended silk fabrics of wool and rayon. However, in the above-mentioned modified polyester fibers, especially organic sulfonic acid-based copolyester fibers, metal salts are easily precipitated during spinning even in the form of fibers with a general circular cross-section, and the spinning performance is not good. . The spinning of shaped cross-section fibers is even more difficult. And because the fiber strength is weak, it has the disadvantage of poor spinnability. In order to improve spinnability, fiber strength must be increased, and in order to obtain pilling resistance, it is necessary to find a way to reduce fiber strength in the dyeing process. Furthermore, in order to maintain a certain quality during the dyeing process, its processing management is also relatively cumbersome.

In the dyeing process of the above-mentioned modified polyester fiber, when the treatment liquid is a strong acidic liquid with a pH of 3 to 4, it is difficult to control the change of the pH of the liquid during treatment and the difference between rolls to a minimum. , the gray cloth is prone to embrittlement and discoloration, which will cause a decrease in the strength and quality of the practical gray cloth, and obviously damage the value of the product. In addition, it is disadvantageous in terms of cost for fabrics of fiber structure that require high-temperature and long-term dyeing treatment in order to obtain pilling resistance. In addition, the gray fabric made of the above-mentioned modified polyester fibers is extremely uneconomical because the strength of the yarn or the gray fabric is significantly lowered in the post-dyeing treatment, so that re-dyeing is impossible.

In recent years, studies on improvement of pilling resistance by spinning methods have been carried out, among which there is a method using wrap spinning. In this method, since the basic structure is inter-fiber entanglement using high-speed air fluid, the fiber ends are confined inside the fiber, so the hairiness is less and the pilling resistance is improved. However, compared with the ring spinning method, the structure There is a disadvantage of hardening the hand. Therefore, in polyester staple fiber fabrics, it is necessary to have a kind of anti-pilling and ultraviolet shielding properties, anti-permeability, color rendering properties, water absorption and quick-drying properties, cool feeling, and soft hand feeling without using all dull short fibers. fabric.

The purpose of the first invention of the present invention is to provide a kind of fabric at low cost. It is transparent, has a high UV shielding rate, has excellent water absorption and quick-drying properties, and has excellent color rendering properties. It is also rich in anti-pilling and soft to the touch even without using special modified polyester fibers.

Graft polymerization processing is well known as a method for imparting hygroscopicity to polyester fibers. For example: the graft polymerization process described in JP-A-2000-45181, but in order to put it into practical use, it still has shortcomings that should be solved. That is, the polyester fiber processed by graft polymerization has the disadvantages of poor physical properties of the dyed product, especially low strength when wet, wrinkling, large dimensional change rate, and sticky and slippery hand feeling. In order to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages, many studies have been made on two-component spinning in which a hygroscopic component is blended in the fiber core, but the fiber shape of the spinning is unstable due to swelling during washing or water absorption. There are still problems in deterioration of dyeing quality, low hygroscopicity, spinning cost, etc., so there are almost no products that have been practically used as clothing materials.

The main purpose of the second invention of the present invention is to provide a polyester staple fiber fabric for underwear and outerwear, and interior materials, auxiliary materials, bedding, etc. suitable for towels, pads, mats, sheets, etc. Fabrics; instead of using 2-component spun fibers mixed with hygroscopic components in the fiber core, fibers that have been grafted and polymerized with polyester single-component spun fibers are also available, and air-jet interlaced spinning technology is used A soft polyester staple fiber fabric with both hygroscopicity and anti-pilling properties is obtained. Furthermore, it is to provide a polyester staple fiber fabric having both hygroscopicity and pilling resistance, which has improved the disadvantages of poor physical properties, dimensional instability when wet, low dryness, and slippery feeling that graft polymerization processed fibers have. .

In addition, stretchable spun yarns using side-by-side crimp-prone fibers are widely known (for example, JP-A-6-287809). In order to make the material exhibit curling properties, it is necessary to rub the cloth with a liquid flow dyeing machine, and at this time, many feathers will be produced on the surface of the gray cloth. Therefore, there must be a process of removing feathers through singeing and alkali reduction processing. Due to the above reasons, stretchable spun yarn cannot be blended or interwoven with silk, wool, acrylic fiber, Promix fiber, rayon, spandex fiber and other materials that do not have alkali resistance.

The object of the third invention of the present invention is to provide a staple fiber fabric excellent in pilling resistance, stretchability and bulkiness by using an air-jet entangled spun yarn containing side-by-side crimp-prone fibers, and to obtain the following polyester fabric: Ester staple fiber fabrics do not require special singeing, alkali reduction processing, etc. in order to obtain anti-pilling properties. Manufacturing failures rarely occur during spinning, spinning and dyeing. Although they are air-jet entangled spun yarns , but only through simple treatment such as hot water treatment, it can still be a polyester staple fiber fabric with excellent stretch bulk and soft bulk and anti-pilling properties.

The object of the fourth invention of the present invention is to provide a staple fiber fabric excellent in pilling resistance and bulkiness by using an air-jet entangled spun yarn in combination with short fibers having different shrinkage effects, and to obtain a polyester-based fabric as described below. Short-fiber fabrics, that is, do not need to use modified polyester fibers used in the past to obtain anti-pilling properties, and few manufacturing failures occur during spinning, spinning and dyeing processing. A polyester-based staple fiber fabric with excellent bulkiness that can achieve both soft bulkiness and pilling resistance through simple treatments such as hot water treatment.

Contents of the invention

The inventors of the present invention conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, and finally completed the present invention. Namely the constitution of the present invention is as follows:

The first invention is:

1. A fabric containing polyester fibers, characterized in that the fabric is made of air-jet interlaced spun yarns containing titanium oxide content lower than 1.0% by mass of polyester fibers, and the anti-lifting in the Japanese Industrial Standard JIS L 1076A method The spherical property is above grade 3, the ultraviolet shielding rate is above 84%, and the visible light transmittance is below 40%.

2. The manufacturing method of the fabric containing polyester fiber described in item 1 above, characterized in that the fabric uses air-jet entangled spun yarn as the constituent filaments of the fabric, and the air-jet entangled spun yarn contains titanium oxide content of less than 1.0 mass %, and there are three or more protrusions continuously present on the fiber circumference along the fiber length direction, and the degree of irregularity of the fiber cross-section (the ratio of the circumscribed circle to the inscribed circle) is 1.8 or more Highly deformed polyester fiber or hollow rate 8% or more of hollow polyester fiber, and the number of hairs with a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m of the spun yarn is 30 or more but less than 350, and the number of hairs with a length of 3 mm or more is less than 15.

The second invention is:

3. A polyester fiber fabric, characterized in that the fabric is made of air-jet interlaced spun yarns containing polyester staple fibers that have been grafted and polymerized with a hydrophilic compound, with a standard moisture content of more than 1.5% and anti-stripping Sphericity is above grade 3.

4. The polyester fiber fabric as described in item 3 above, wherein the dimensional change rate measured according to the JIS L 1018 F-1 method is -8% to 0% for knitted fabrics, and within ±3% for textile fabrics .

5. The method for producing a polyester fiber fabric as described in the above item 3 or 4, characterized in that the following spun yarn is used to weave a fabric in the method, the spun yarn is graft-polymerized with a hydrophilic compound The air-jet interlaced spun yarn of the processed polyester staple fiber, and the spun yarn has 30 to 350 hairs with a length of 1 mm or more but less than 3 mm per 10 m of yarn length, and the number of hairs with a length of 3 mm or more is less than 15.

6. The method for producing a polyester fiber fabric according to any one of the above items 3 to 5, characterized in that the air-jet entangled polyester spun yarn or the air-jet mixed filament of the air-jet entangled spun yarn and other multifilaments is used to Woven into fabric.

7. The method for producing a polyester fiber fabric as described in any one of the above-mentioned items 3 to 6, wherein the denier of the polyester staple fiber is at least 1.3 dtex, and there are 3 points on the circumference of the fiber section. More than one protruding portion exists continuously along the fiber length direction, and the degree of irregularity thereof is 1.8 or more.

The third invention is:

8. A stretchable bulky staple fiber fabric, characterized in that the fabric is composed of air-entangled spun yarns containing at least 10% by mass of side-by-side crimped staple fibers with a fineness of 1.0 to 6.0 dtex, and the pilling resistance is 3 above grade.

9. The stretchable bulky short-fiber fabric according to the above-mentioned item 8, wherein the air-jet entangled spun yarn contains at least 10% by mass of low-shrinkage short fibers having a shrinkage in boiling water (according to JIS L 1015) of 4% or less .

10. The stretchable bulky staple fiber fabric according to item 8 or 9 above, wherein the crimped staple fibers and/or low-shrinkage staple fibers have a hollow cross-section with a hollow rate of 5% or more, or Polyester-based staple fibers with one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the cross-section of the fiber having a deformity degree of 1.8 or more.

11. A method for producing a stretchable bulky staple fiber fabric, characterized in that at least 10% by mass of side-by-side crimp-prone staple fibers having a fineness of 0.8 to 4.0 dtex is used, and the hairiness number (X) and The relationship between the cross-sectional fiber number (Y) of the spun yarn satisfies the following formula (1) and the air-jet entangled spun yarn is made into a fabric, and then the fabric is heat-shrunk.

0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula

X: The number of hairs with a length of 1mm or more per 10m

Y: the number of fibers in the cross-section of the spun yarn

The number of cross-sectional fibers of the spun yarn: 5315×1.11/(dtex of British cotton count×single fiber) 12. The method for manufacturing the stretchable bulky short-fiber fabric as described in the above item 11, characterized in that the curling tendency The boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of staple fibers is 20% or more.

13. The method for producing stretchable bulky short-fiber fabrics as described in item 12 above, wherein the air-jet entangled spun yarn contains low-shrinkage short fibers 90 to 90% of which have a boiling water shrinkage rate (according to JIS L 1015) of 4% or less. 10% by mass, 10% to 90% by mass of short fibers with a tendency to crimp with a shrinkage in boiling water (according to JIS L 1015) of 20% or more.

14. The method for producing a stretchable bulky staple fiber fabric according to any one of the above items 11 to 13, wherein the crimp-prone short fibers and/or low-shrinkage short fibers have a hollow rate of 8%. The polyester-based short fiber with a hollow cross-section as above, or a polyester-based staple fiber with a deformed cross-section having one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross-section and having a degree of deformity of 1.8 or more.

The fourth invention is:

15. A bulky staple fiber fabric, characterized in that the fabric is made of air-jet interlaced spun yarns containing low-shrinkage staple fibers and copolyester staple fibers containing boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of 4%, And it is a fabric formed by thermal shrinkage of the air-jet entangled spun yarn containing 10-60% by mass of copolyester staple fiber, and the pilling resistance is above grade 3.

16. The bulky staple fiber fabric as described in item 15 above, wherein the copolyester staple fiber has a hollow cross section with a hollow rate of 8% or more or a deformed degree with one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross section. High-shrinkage short fibers with a special-shaped cross-section of 1.8 or more and a boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of 20% or more.

17. The bulky staple fiber fabric according to item 15 or 16 above, wherein the low-shrinkage short fibers are hollow polyester staple fibers with a fiber cross-sectional shape or a profiled degree of 1.8 or higher.

18. The bulky staple fiber fabric according to any one of the above items 15 to 17, wherein the third component of the copolyester staple fiber is isophthalic acid.

19. A method for producing a bulky staple fiber fabric, characterized in that the following air-jet entangled spun yarn is used to make the fabric, and then the fabric is thermally shrunk, wherein the air-jet entangled spun yarn contains boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) air-jet entangled spun yarn with 90-40% by mass of low-shrinkage short fibers of 4% or less and 10-60% by mass of high-shrinkage short fibers of 20% or more, And the relationship between the number of hairiness (K) of the spun yarn and the number of cross-sectional fibers (A) of the spun yarn satisfies the following formula (1).

0.4≤K≤3A (1) formula

K: The number of hairs with a length of 1mm or more per 10m

A: Number of cross-sectional fibers of spun yarn

The number of cross-sectional fibers of the spun yarn: 5315×1.11/(dtex of British cotton count×single fiber) 20. The method for manufacturing the bulky short-fiber fabric as described in item 19 above, characterized in that the high shrinkage and short The fiber is a copolyester staple fiber having a hollow cross section with a hollow rate of 8% or more or a deformed cross section with one or more protrusions on the outer periphery of the fiber cross section with a degree of deformation of 1.8 or more and a fineness of 1.0 to 4.0 dtex.

21. The method for producing a bulky short fiber fabric as described in the above item 19 or 20, wherein the high shrinkage short fiber is a copolymer having a maximum thermal stress of 0.08 cN/dtex or more at 60 to 160°C. Ester staple fiber.

Detailed ways

The present invention will be specifically described below.

The polyester fiber-containing fabric in the present invention refers to a knitted fabric or a woven fabric using at least air-jet entangled spun yarn as constituent threads.

First, the first invention of the present invention will be described in detail.

The content of titanium oxide contained in the polyester fiber used in 1st invention is less than 1.0 mass %. When the polyester fiber is a high-shape polyester fiber with three or more protrusions present on the fiber circumference continuously along the fiber length direction, and the degree of deformation is 1.8 or more, it is preferably 0.6% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass %the following. If it exceeds 1.0% by mass, the spinnability deteriorates and the matting effect exerts a strong effect, so that whiteness deteriorates and color rendering properties may be lost. The feature of the present invention is that the ultraviolet shielding properties and anti-transmission properties of nearly all-dull fibers can be obtained with a small amount of titanium oxide content, so it is not necessary to contain an excessive amount.

In the case of a hollow fiber, the surface reflectance of light is inferior to that of the above-mentioned highly deformed fiber, and a slightly higher content of titanium oxide is more effective, preferably at least 0.4% by mass and about 0.8% by mass. When the number of hollow shapes in the fiber is large, since the reflectance of light increases, the content of titanium oxide can be less than one, and the color rendering property can be improved.

Titanium oxide can be used as the main body, and kaolin, zirconium carbide, various pigments, tourmaline, a small amount of radioactive fine powder obtained from rare ores and deep ocean water, antibacterial deodorant, etc. can also be mixed as needed. Antibacterial agents, etc.

The fiber cross-section used in the first invention must have a form of fiber with a high degree of irregularity: three or more protrusions exist on the circumference of the fiber, and the degree of deformation (ratio of circumscribed circle to inscribed circle) is 1.8 or more, and The protrusions exist continuously along the fiber length direction. Circular cross-section, flat cross-section and triangular cross-section with a degree of irregularity lower than 1.8 are not within the scope of the present invention, but must have a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more, and the height difference between the protrusions and grooves on the fiber surface is large And Y-shaped, cross-shaped, and star-shaped cross-section fibers with high surface diffuse reflectance. The degree of deformation thereof is preferably 2.0 or more and less than 3.5, more preferably 3.0 or less. If it is above 3.5, the fiber strength will decrease. The above-mentioned high-shape fiber generally has bulkiness, and can impart a cushioning effect that feels soft when the gray cloth is pressed. Therefore, it can play an effective role in softening the hand of the air-jet entangled spun yarn of the present invention.

The hollow fiber used in the first invention preferably has a hollow ratio of not less than 8% and not more than 45%. If it is less than 7%, the light reflectance will be poor, and if it is more than 46%, the shape retention will be poor, so it is not preferable. Preferably it is in the range of 15% to 30%. The hollow cross-sectional shape of the fiber can be round, triangular, flat, square, etc. In addition, the number of hollows in the single fiber can be one or more, which can be hollow fibers formed during spinning, or hollow fibers formed after specific components in cotton, silk, or fabrics are dissolved and removed.

The content of high irregularity fibers and hollow fibers in the air-entangled spun yarn is preferably 30%, more preferably 50% or more. They can be used alone or in combination. In addition, it can also be mixed with other fibers within the range that does not affect performance, such as: cotton and rayon, cupro ammonia fiber, polynosic, refined cellulose (Tesosel, etc.) and other cellulose fibers (including hygroscopic and heat-generating fibers ), polyester with deodorant, antibacterial, antibacterial and deodorant properties, acrylonitrile, acrylate, modified polyacrylonitrile fibers, etc.

In addition, the feature of the first invention is that the pilling resistance can be obtained by using a homopolymer polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, and the polyester fiber can also be used in order to obtain bright colors and heterochromatic dyeing effects. It can be mixed with cationic dyeable polyester fiber, etc., which are copolymers containing organic sulfonic acid metal alkali components, in the form of interweaving, interlacing, blending, etc. In the present invention, the content of high profile fiber or hollow fiber in the fabric is preferably 20%, more preferably 40% or more.

The fineness of the polyester fiber in the first invention is preferably 3.5 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, from the viewpoints of entanglement, hand feeling, and count. If it is more than 3.6 dtex, the number of constituents of the spun yarn is reduced and the rigidity is strong, so that the intertwining property is deteriorated, resulting in a hard feel and low strength, and it is difficult to obtain a fine count. Compared with long fibers, short fibers are more likely to have anti-light transmission due to the bulkiness caused by crimping, and by making the fibers into a high profile degree of 1.8 or higher and a hollow cross-sectional shape, the rigidity of the fibers is enhanced, as Spun yarn has the characteristic of good bulkiness. As a result, there is less fiber overflow caused by heat and physical force in the subsequent process, and compared with fibers with round cross-section and flat cross-section and a degree of irregularity lower than 1.8, it has excellent bulky fiber shape retention, It also plays a beneficial role in preventing the transmission of ultraviolet rays and visible light.

From the perspective of the strength of rigidity caused by the cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber in the first invention, even with a fineness of 1.1 to 1.5 dtex, sufficient rigidity (hari, body bone) can be obtained as that of the round cross-sectional fiber 2.0 dtex. Compared with conventional yarns, the number of spun yarns can be increased for the same number of yarns. As a result, the yarn strength, the ultraviolet reflection of the fiber, and the effect of preventing the transmission of visible light can be improved. In addition, considering the strength of its rigidity, it also has the effect of reducing the entanglement between hairs and improving the pilling resistance.

In the polyester staple fiber of the first invention, the appropriate number of crimps is 8 to 20 crimps/25 mm, and the higher the crimp number, the stronger the bulkiness or the diffuse reflection on the gray fabric surface, preferably 10 crimps/25 mm or more. Fiber cut length can be cut from 32mm to different lengths, and can be selected according to the purpose. Generally speaking, if you consider the number of hairiness of the spun yarn, the degree of hairiness entanglement, the feel, and the silk quality, it is best not to be too long, preferably 32mm to 51mm.

When the above-mentioned polyester staple fiber is spun, the ring spinning method is not used, but a high-speed air-entangled yarn such as air-end spinning or wrap spinning is used. The above-mentioned method is different from the ring spun yarn, and has the effect of suppressing silk hairiness in the silk structure, but this structure cannot avoid the feeling becoming hard. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable to set the spinning conditions so as not to impair the feel and bulk of the spun yarn. Conditions for looseness and pilling resistance, avoiding low-speed spinning under high air pressure that increases the degree of entanglement and hardens the handle, etc.

In the first invention, the number of hairiness of the spun spun yarn is preferably not less than 30 and less than 350 per 10 m of yarn length, and less than 30 and less than 350, and the number of hairs having a length of 3 mm or more is less than 15, And each hairiness number satisfies less than 300 and 10 or less at the same time. According to the present invention, by specifying the cross-sectional shape and fineness of the fiber, and then making spun yarn with high-speed airflow, spun yarn with few hairiness can be obtained. If the number of hairiness is more than 350 and more than 15, especially in double In a bulky and loose structure such as a rib structure and a loop structure, sufficient anti-pilling properties cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. In addition, when the number of hairiness of 1 mm or more is less than 30, it becomes a spun yarn with a high degree of entanglement and a small yarn diameter. Although the pilling resistance increases, it becomes a gray fabric with a hard hand feeling with poor bulkiness, so it is not easy to use. ideal. As a result, the ultraviolet shielding rate targeted by the present invention decreases, and the visible light transmittance increases, which is not preferable.

In the fabric of the first invention, by using at least the above-mentioned polyester spun yarn, it is possible to obtain a visible light transmittance of 40% or less at 380 to 780 nm, an ultraviolet shielding rate of 84% or more at a wavelength of 280 to 400 nm, and an anti-pilling rate in the JIS L 1076 method. Fabrics containing polyester fibers with a spherical property of 3 or higher. In the above case, it can also be blended, blended, intertwisted, interwoven, interwoven with other fibers to make a structure in which more of the above polyester fibers are used in the surface layer of the gray cloth, or the above fibers can be used alone.

The dyeing process of the woven fabric of the first invention is the same as other polyester fibers, and the usual dyeing process is performed after scouring. Common polyester fibers are dyed under high pressure at 120-130°C, and for cationic dyeable polyester, they are dyed at normal pressure to high pressure at 98-120°C. In the present invention, it can be accomplished without using a UV absorber in combination, but a UV absorber can be used in combination in an amount smaller than usual. Textiles can be singed or sheared in the same process before dyeing or after dyeing as usual. In addition, light alkali treatment can also be performed after singeing, and then dyed to improve the quality, pilling resistance, and handle of gray fabrics .

Next, the second invention of the present invention will be described in detail.

In the second invention of the present invention, the pilling resistance of the polyester staple fiber fabric and the hygroscopicity of the graft polymerization processed (hereinafter referred to as graft polymerization) polyester fiber are brought into play, and the poor strength and especially wetness of the graft polymerization fiber are improved. When the strength is poor and the dimensional stability is poor, wrinkling, slippery and other shortcomings. In addition, by blending or blending with untreated polyester raw cotton or filament, the slippery feeling when wet and the dimensional change rate are improved without impairing hygroscopicity.

The polyester staple fibers used in the second invention are not particularly limited, and in addition to mainly using homopolymer polyesters such as polyterephthalic acid, it is also possible to use organic sulfonic acid bases for obtaining different colors and low-temperature dyeability. Compound copolyester, and copolyester modified polyester such as the third component copolyester such as isophthalic acid and neopentyl glycol for obtaining high shrinkage. Wherein it can also contain 0.3% by mass to 5.0% by mass of titanium oxide, and then kaolin, zirconium carbide, various pigments, carbon fine powders such as bamboo and binchotan, tourmaline (tourmaline), antibacterial deodorant, Antibacterial agent, antifungal agent, etc.

In the second invention, the polyester fiber can exhibit pilling resistance due to the decrease in strength caused by graft polymerization processing, and the polyester fiber strength before graft polymerization processing is preferably 3.0 cN/dtex or more, more preferably 4.0 cN/dtex or more. dtex above. In the present invention, the strength of the spun yarn can be improved by the degree of graft polymerization of the graft polymer fiber and the blending and blending ratio of the fiber of the non-graft polymer, so that high-strength polyester fiber is not necessarily required, which is the present invention Characteristics. Therefore, in addition to circular cross-sectional shapes, triangular, Y-shaped, cross-shaped, star-shaped or rectangular shapes, flat types, flat types with a part of protrusions, etc. can be used, and furthermore hollow High profile polyester. In particular, in the present invention, a fiber having a fineness of 1.3 dtex or more, three or more protrusions present on the circumference of the fiber cross section continuously along the fiber length direction, and a fiber having a degree of irregularity (ratio of the major diameter to the minor diameter) of 1.8 or more is used. Especially effective with polyester fibers. This is because the above-mentioned fibers are easier to obtain bulkiness and cushioning effect than fibers with a round cross-section, resulting in a soft gray cloth feel. The degree of irregularity is preferably 2.0 dtex or more and less than 3.2. If it is less than 1.8 and higher than 3.2, even if the fineness is increased, the rigidity will be weakened, which is not suitable for the present invention.

Fibers having a cross-sectional shape with the above-mentioned degree of irregularity have a larger surface area than fibers with a circular cross-section, and have good water absorption and quick-drying properties. In addition, fabrics made of it are structurally less water-retaining than fabrics obtained from fine-denier spun yarns, and thus have better drying properties. In the case of knitted fabrics, fine denier spun yarns are soft to the touch, and the product is easily deformed, but according to the present invention, a certain rigidity can be obtained, and the beautiful outline of the product can be maintained.

The fineness of the polyester fiber can be selected from a thin fineness of 0.5dtex to a thick fineness of 5.0dtex according to the needs, and can be determined after considering the increase in fiber diameter according to the grafting rate. When the fineness is lower than 0.5dtex, the liquid permeability during graft polymerization is poor, it is difficult to obtain a uniform grafting rate, and when the graft polymerized fiber is spun, the wind cotton caused by the decrease in fiber strength tends to increase. On the other hand, if it exceeds 5.0 dtex, only a coarse-count spun yarn can be obtained, and the texture becomes hard, which is not preferable. From the viewpoint of feel and process passability, the fineness after graft polymerization is preferably in the range of 1.0 dtex to 3.0 dtex.

In the second invention, the hydrophilic compound to be graft-polymerized on the polyester fiber refers to a vinyl-based monomer of a hydrophilic group or a vinyl group that can easily express hydrophilicity by simple treatment such as hydrolysis or neutralization treatment. It is a monomer that has a polymerizable vinyl group in its molecular structure, and has acidic groups such as carboxylic acid and sulfonic acid and/or hydrophilic groups such as salts, hydroxyl groups, ester groups, and amide groups.

Specifically, such as: acrylic acid, sodium acrylate, aluminum acrylate, calcium acrylate, potassium acrylate, zinc acrylate, magnesium acrylate and other acrylate monomers, acrylamide, 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylic acid, Allyl alcohol, sodium allyl sulfonate, sodium vinyl sulfonate, sodium methallyl sulfonate, sodium styrene sulfonate, polyoxymethylene methacrylate, etc. These may be used individually by 1 type, and may use 2 or more types together.

The graft polymerization process can be carried out by using the above-mentioned monomers by using a known method for cotton and silk of polyester fibers. That is, it is possible to use a water-based processing fluid containing a catalyst or a swelling agent such as a hydrophilic monomer and a peroxide, or to perform heat treatment after immersion in a water-based processing fluid. After neutralization and washing, the acidic group is treated with sodium Alkali metal salt treatment, etc. as a representative, improves hygroscopicity and water absorption.

In the graft polymerization process in the second invention, the monomer concentration in the working fluid is preferably 10% by mass to 40% by mass, and the polymerization rate is preferably set to be 2% by mass or more to about 30% by mass. If it is less than 2% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a moisture absorption rate, and when it is more than 30% by mass, although a high moisture absorption rate can be obtained, the fiber strength decreases, the water retention rate becomes high, and wrinkling and dimensional changes when wet become large, and the drying time If it becomes longer, it will lose the non-iron (W&W) properties of polyester, so it is not ideal.

The treatment conditions in the second invention are preferably such that the moisture content (20° C., 65% RH) after alkali metal salification is controlled within a range of 1.5 to 15%.

The polyester fiber processed by graft polymerization can be blended with ungrafted polyester fiber, and the standard moisture content required as a spun yarn is 1.5% or more, which can be adjusted by the mixing ratio of untreated cotton The graft polymerization ratio and its mixing ratio may be appropriately set as needed. For example, to control the rate of dimensional change within the range of the present invention using only graft polymer fibers, it is only necessary to set the moisture content to 5% or less. In addition, when the dimensional change rate and slippery feel are to be improved at the same time, it can be made into high-grafted polymer fibers with a moisture content of 7% or more, and fibers with a high degree of deformation such as Y-type fibers that are less than 80% by mass. Blended and blended filaments of non-grafted polymerized polyester staple fibers or filaments.

The upper limit of the standard moisture content of the fabric in the second invention is preferably 7%, more preferably 6%. If the standard moisture content exceeds 7%, the shrinkage of gray cloth or products will increase during washing, the dimensional stability will deteriorate, and it will appear wrinkled, and the drying time will be correspondingly longer with the increase of water retention, which will damage The non-ironing property inherent in polyester. In order to obtain a standard moisture content of 1.5% or more, graft polymerization must have sufficient polymerization time. From the perspective of process or equipment, it is unfavorable to implement it with gray cloth, and it is best to implement it in the state of raw cotton or spun yarn.

When using graft-polymerized cotton, it can be made into 100% graft-polymerized polyester cotton, or blended with non-graft-polymerized cotton, or can be made into twisted yarns such as the above-mentioned spun yarn and non-graft-polymerized spun yarn. Blending can be performed by card blending, sliver blending, drawing process, spinning process, and the like.

The fibers to be blended may be short fibers other than polyester, but in the present invention, polyester is mainly used in terms of physical properties, W&W properties, and dyeability. Its shape can be circular cross-section, hollow or high-profile fiber, ultra-fine fiber, cationic dyeable and atmospheric dyeable fiber (cationic dye, disperse dye), raw yarn dyed fiber, dope dyed fiber, etc., and can be combined according to the purpose together.

After grafting and polymerizing the spun yarn, it can be used directly, or it can be further used to make the graft polymerized yarn and circular cross-section, hollow or high profile fiber, ultrafine fiber, false twist processed yarn, cationic dyeable and normal pressure dyeable fiber, Multifilaments such as yarn-dyed fibers and dope-dyed fibers are air-jet blended to form a structure in which the surface of the spun yarn is covered with multifilaments before use. At this time, the blending ratio of the graft polymerized fibers is not less than 10% by mass and not more than 75% by mass, which is preferable in terms of moisture absorption, strength, texture, and dimensional stability. If the graft polymerization rate is less than 10% by mass, high graft polymerization is necessary to obtain a moisture absorption rate, so that the fiber strength is remarkably lowered, and the fibers may fall off due to repeated washing, which is not preferable.

In the polyester staple fiber in the second invention, the appropriate number of crimps is 8 to 17 pieces/25 mm, and the fiber cut length can be cut from 32 mm to unequal lengths, and can be appropriately selected according to the purpose. Generally speaking, if you consider the number of hairiness of the spun yarn, the degree of hairiness entanglement, the feel, and the silk quality, it is best not to be too long, preferably 32mm to 51mm.

When the above-mentioned polyester staple fiber is spun, the ring spinning method is not used, but a high-speed air-entangled yarn such as air-end spinning or wrap spinning is used. The air-jet entanglement spinning can be carried out by a known method described in JP-A-56-31370. The above method is different from the ring spun yarn in that it has the effect of suppressing silk hairiness in terms of structure, but this structure cannot prevent the texture from becoming hard. In the present invention, it is preferable to set the spinning conditions so as not to impair the hand feel, bulkiness, and pilling resistance of the spun yarn, and to avoid low-speed spinning under high air pressure that increases the degree of entanglement and makes the hand feel hard. wait. In addition, the distribution of the grafted polymer fibers in the spun yarn can be randomly distributed, but the core-shell structure yarn form in which more grafted polymer fibers are distributed in the fiber core is ideal in terms of hand feeling and wearing feeling during moisture absorption.

In the second invention, the number of hairs in the spun yarn is preferably 30 to 350 hairs with a length of 1 mm or more and less than 3 mm per 10 m of yarn length, and the number of hairs with a length of 3 mm or more is It is 15 or less, and more preferably, the number of hairiness is 300 or less and 10 or less at the same time. When the number of hairiness exceeds 350 and 15, respectively, it is not preferable because sufficient pilling resistance cannot be obtained especially in bulky and loose structures such as interlock weave and pile weave. In addition, when the number of hairs with a length of hairiness of 1 mm or more is less than 30, it becomes a spun yarn with a high degree of entanglement and a small yarn diameter, and although the pilling resistance increases, it becomes a gray fabric with a hard handle with poor bulkiness. So less than ideal. In the present invention, the spun yarn with less hairiness can be produced by specifying the cross-sectional shape and fineness of the fiber, and then forming a spun yarn by high-speed airflow.

Next, when forming a woven fabric, in addition to using the above-mentioned spun yarn alone, it can also be interwoven with other fibers within the range that does not impair the characteristics of the present invention. In addition to common weaves such as interlock weaves, plain knits, twill weaves, and satin weaves, the present invention can also be used in weaves with many relief weaves such as deer point patterns, jacquard weaves, and terry weaves. Effect.

The above-mentioned gray cloth does not need to adopt the necessary dyeing processing conditions when using the copolyester fiber to obtain pilling resistance, such as the treatment conditions of high pressure and long time in a highly acidic bath with pH 3 to 4, or alkali weight reduction, etc. It is sufficient to set the processing conditions as conventional or in accordance with the characteristics of the interwoven material. Common polyester fibers are dyed under high pressure at 120-130°C for 20-40 minutes, and cationic dyeable and normal-pressure disperse-dyeable modified polyesters are dyed under normal pressure or high pressure at 98-120°C.

In the second invention, post-processing such as ultraviolet absorber, silk protein, amino acid, chitosan treatment, water absorption, antifouling, water repellency, antibacterial deodorization, and antibacterial processing can be performed. The present invention is a spun yarn with less hairiness, which does not require the singeing process of the cloth like the conventional ring spun yarn, but it can be singed or sheared after the dyeing that is usually used in textiles. It can be treated with light alkali to remove the melted hair balls, and then dyed to supplement and improve the quality, pilling resistance and hand feeling of gray fabrics.

Next, the third invention of the present invention will be described.

In the third invention of the present invention, side-by-side crimp-prone short fibers having a large thermal shrinkage property are used as air-entangled spun yarns, especially after blending crimp-prone polyester short fibers and other fibers into air-entangled spun yarns , heat treatment in the fabric form, so that it shows sufficient shrinkage, and becomes a filament structure with many gaps between the fibers, thereby improving the softness against deformation between intertwined fibers, giving bulkiness, softness and stretchability . Furthermore, it is made into a structure in which most of the curl-prone fibers that cause fiber feathering during dyeing are enclosed in the inner layer of the spun yarn to suppress the occurrence of feathering, and can be processed without special singeing and alkali weight reduction. In the case of improving the quality of gray cloth.

In the description of the third invention, unless otherwise specified, the term "fiber" refers to short fiber.

The side-by-side crimp-prone short fibers in the 3rd invention are preferably made of homopolyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate or the like This polyester is a polyester-based crimp-prone fiber obtained by copolymerizing copolyesters such as the third and fourth components as the basic skeleton. For example, the mass ratio of (A)/(B) in the range of 45/55 to 55/45, which is a common homopolyester of component (A) and another component (B) of its copolyester can be used. Combined side-by-side composite fibers.

As the copolymerization component of the copolyester in the third invention, isophthalic acid, sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate, adipic acid, and neopentyl glycol can be suitably selected from the viewpoint of heat shrinkage stress and heat shrinkage rate. , diethylene glycol and other acid or glycol components, the amount of the copolymerization is preferably 4 to 18 mol% for high melting point types, more preferably 5 to 12 mol% range, and preferably 12 to 40 mol% for low melting point types, more preferably 18 to 30 mol% range. When the amount of copolymerization is less than 4 mol%, the shrinkage of the fiber is insufficient, and when it exceeds 40 mol%, stress relaxation is likely to occur during post-processing, and the shrinkage force, raw cotton strength, and thermal stability will decrease.

More specifically, as a high-melting-point type having a melting point of 240 to 260° C., polyethylene terephthalate (A) and a copolymer of 5 mol % isophthalic acid and 2 mol % 5-sulfoisophthalic acid can be used. A combination of sodium formate copolyester (B), and a low melting point type having a melting point of 140 to 160° C., copolyester copolymerized with, for example, 30 mol % of neopentyl glycol, etc. can be used as the component (B). In the case where the blended fiber is relatively heat-resistant, such as cellulose-based fibers, the (B) component is best to use a high-melting point type, and in knitwear applications that use silk, wool, etc. that do not require heat resistance, The low melting point types are preferred.

The hot water shrinkage rate of the crimp-prone fiber in the third invention is obtained under the liquid temperature condition that maximizes the shrinkage rate without impairing the characteristics of the fiber, the low melting point type is at the boiling temperature, and the high melting point type The type is under high pressure conditions, and its free shrinkage rate is preferably more than 20%, more preferably more than 30%. If the shrinkage rate in hot water is less than 20%, the expressive power of shrinkage is insufficient, and the difference in shrinkage rate between entangled fibers cannot be obtained, making it difficult to obtain soft texture and stretchability.

The fineness of the crimp-prone fibers is not less than 0.8 dtex and not more than 4.0 dtex, preferably not less than 1.0 dtex and not more than 3.3 dtex, more preferably not more than 2.5 dtex. This is because when it is lower than 0.8dtex, stress relaxation is likely to occur, the shrinkage force is insufficient, not only the bulkiness cannot be obtained, but also the number of constituent fibers in the spun yarn increases, which easily induces hairiness and pilling. And if it exceeds 4.0dtex, although the shrinkage force increases, the thicker fibers are more distributed on the outside of the spun yarn due to the centrifugal force than the finer fibers in the spinning mechanism. Wearing and washing of the product is rubbed, and the chance of inducing badminton increases, which obviously affects the anti-pilling effect. Therefore, it is preferable to set the fineness of the crimp-prone fibers to be equal to or lower than that of the blended fibers so that most of them can be distributed inside the spun yarn.

Curl-prone fibers are spun into air-jet entangled spun yarns to form fabrics, and heat-treated in the fabric state to express crimps by heat shrinkage. Therefore, crimped fibers having a fineness of 1.0 to 6.0 dtex exist in the woven fabric of the present invention.

The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side crimp-prone fibers in the third invention may be a hollow fiber, an ellipse, a triangle, a Y shape, or a flat shape in addition to a round shape within the range of the component ratio of (A) and (B). , Square and other shaped fibers. Hollow or profiled shapes are easy to get coarse denier and generally have stronger thermal stress than round sections. Moreover, due to its rigidity, it is easy to resist high-speed eddy currents, and it is not easy to fly to the outside, so it plays a more effective role. In addition, in order to obtain a difference in shrinkage between the blended fibers, it is necessary to increase the shrinkage expressiveness of the crimp-prone fibers, and the above-mentioned fiber shape can further enhance the effect of the third invention.

The side-by-side crimp-prone fibers in the third invention can be used alone or in a state close to 100% when a high stretchability of 30% or more is required as a characteristic of the fabric, but when moderate stretchability is required, When the practical properties of the fabric are emphasized, it can be used after blending with low-shrinkage fibers with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 4% or less. As a low-shrinkage blended material blended with crimp-prone fibers, it is preferable to have a cross-sectional shape and fineness (specific gravity) that can increase rigidity. Spun structure. Corresponding fibers include hollow fibers with a hollow ratio of 8% or more or polyester staple fibers with more than one protruding portion on the outer periphery of the fiber and a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more.

In the case of hollow fibers, the cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion may be circular, elliptical, triangular, flat, square, or the like. In addition, the number of hollows in the cross-section may be one or more, and the hollows may be formed during spinning, or may be formed after dissolving and removing specific components in cotton, silk, or fabric. The total amount of hollow ratio is preferably more than 8% and less than 40%. If it is less than 8%, the shrinkage force will decrease. When it is more than 40%, the rigidity and fiber shape retention will be low, or the cross section will be damaged, and the shrinkage effect will be reduced. worse.

In addition, if it is a special-shaped fiber, it is preferable to have a special-shaped cross-sectional shape (Y-shaped, cross-shaped, Star type, other groove type, etc.) fibers. When the degree of irregularity is lower than the above value, the stress relaxation is large, and it is difficult to express shrinkage force in the blended yarn, and it is difficult to obtain the desired bulkiness and soft hand feeling.

The low-shrinkage fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 4% or less in a state of free shrinkage in boiling water for 20 minutes, but synthetic fibers are preferred because synthetic fibers can be arbitrarily determined. Denier, fiber cross-sectional shape, etc., especially preferred are homopolyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polyalkylene terephthalate represented by polybutylene terephthalate. .

The mixing ratio of side-by-side crimp-prone fibers in the spun yarn is preferably not less than 10% by mass and not more than 60% by mass, more preferably not less than 15% by mass and not more than 45% by mass. Especially in the case of fibers with a high degree of irregularity, since the shrinkage stress is strong, the mixing ratio is preferably 40% by mass or less. When the mixing ratio exceeds 60%, the shrinkage of the spun yarn itself becomes large, making it difficult to obtain bulkiness as a spun yarn, which affects the texture. On the other hand, if it is less than 10% by mass, sufficient shrinkage difference between high-shrinkage crimp-prone fibers and low-shrinkage fibers cannot be obtained, and the bulkiness of the spun yarn may be insufficient, and softness may not be obtained.

The low-shrinkage fiber blended with crimp-prone fibers preferably has a fineness of 0.1 to 5.0 dtex, and the cross-sectional shape of the fiber can be a normal solid circular cross-section, but a hollow fiber with a hollow rate of 8% or more or a polyester fiber with a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more Ester staple fibers are ideal in terms of pilling resistance. This is because the fiber having the above-mentioned fineness and shape has a small number of fibers in the cross-section and strong rigidity, so the fibers are not easily entangled, and it is easy to obtain anti-pilling properties. However, it is not limited to the above-mentioned fibers, as long as the pilling resistance satisfies grade 3 or higher, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, hemp, rayon, modal, cupro, polynosic fiber, リヨセル can also be used. , acetate fiber (two, three) and other regenerated fibers, refined fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, polyamide fibers, polypropylene terephthalate fibers, cationic dyeable or atmospheric dyeable polyester fibers, polyester Synthetic fibers such as 2-component spun-spun fillet type fibers of amide fibers and polyester fibers, and the above-mentioned fibers can also be used in combination.

The low-shrinkage synthetic fibers among the low-shrinkage fibers may contain 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of inorganic particles such as titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, or kaolin. When titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, etc. are contained, heat retention can be improved by absorbing radiant heat from body temperature and storing the heat inside the fiber. In addition, titanium oxide absorbs visible light, shields sunlight, and has the effect of preventing temperature rise in clothes in summer. When the content of the inorganic particles exceeds 5.0% by mass, the spinnability deteriorates, and when the content of the inorganic particles is less than 0.1% by mass, it becomes difficult to obtain heat retention and heat insulating effects.

In addition, when the low-shrinkage fiber is a high-profile Y-shaped cross-section fiber with a profile of 2.4, if an external force is applied in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, the fiber will be deformed accordingly, and it will return to its original shape when the external force is removed. Moderate cushioning effect brings soft hand feeling. It has the same resistance to deformation in the longitudinal direction as the hollow cross-section fiber, which can weaken the interfiber entanglement. Using the synergistic effect with the fineness, it can improve the pilling resistance. .

The boiling water shrinkage of the low-shrinkage fiber must be below 4.0%, so as to increase the shrinkage difference with the curl-prone fiber and obtain a bulky and soft spun yarn, and it is more ideally below 3.0%. In the blended yarn of the finished fabric, the difference in fiber length between the high-shrinkage fiber and the low-shrinkage fiber is preferably 7% or more, more preferably 8% or more. If it is less than 7%, bulkiness and softness as gray cloth tend to be lacking. Additives contained in the spun yarn may include antibacterial and deodorant agents, bacteriostatic agents, antifungal agents, pigments, etc. in addition to the titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, and kaolin, and are not particularly limited.

The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the third invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more. It is preferably 20% or more in 100% of crimp-prone fibers. If it is lower than the above value, there is a possibility that sufficient curl cannot be expressed, and it may be difficult to obtain stretchability. According to the blended yarn in the present invention, by containing highly shrinkable crimp-prone fibers and low-shrinkage fibers with various characteristics, the shrinkage of the spun yarn itself can be moderately suppressed, and a bulky feeling can be exhibited, so that moderate stretchability can be maintained. , to obtain a soft feel with the characteristics of blended materials.

As the method for producing the air-jet entangled spun yarn in the third invention, that is, a method of obtaining a spun yarn from a single highly shrinkable crimp-prone fiber, or from the high-shrinkage crimp-prone fiber and other low-shrinkage fibers, The thick yarns of the uniform blending method such as card blending are used, but it is ideal to obtain them by the following method: before the thick yarn process of using sliver blending, etc., the fibers with a tendency to crimp are mostly distributed in the The core of the fiber, and the low-shrinkage fibers are mostly distributed in the thick filaments of the core-shell structure of the outer layer, and then the thick filaments are drawn in the spinning process, or the curl-prone fibers and low-shrinkage fibers are drawn in the drafting zone of the spinning process Each thick yarn is obtained by high-speed air-entanglement such as air-end spinning, wrap spinning, etc. after being drawn. The air-jet entanglement spinning method mentioned above is different from the ring spun yarn, and has the effect of suppressing the hairiness of the silk in terms of the silk structure, but it also tends to become hard to the touch. In the present invention, spinning conditions must consider the feel, bulkiness, and pilling resistance of the spun yarn, and it is best to avoid low-speed spinning under high air pressure that increases the degree of entanglement and becomes hard to feel.

The shorter the fiber length and the finer the fineness of air-jet interlaced spun yarn, the easier it is to be scattered by high-speed eddy currents, resulting in most of them being distributed on the outside of the spun yarn. Therefore, it is preferable to set the fiber length of the crimp-prone fiber to be equal to or greater than that of the blended fiber, so that the spun yarn has a combined structure in which most of the crimp-prone fibers are distributed in the inner layer. The fiber length of the crimp-prone fiber is preferably 38 to 51 mm, and the fiber length of the blended fiber is equal to or less than that, for example, 44 mm to 32 mm is preferable.

The spun yarn spun in the third invention is an air-jet interlaced spun yarn in which the relationship between the number of hairiness (X) of the spun yarn and the number of cross-sectional fibers (Y) of the spun yarn satisfies the following formula (1).

0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula

X: The number of hairs with a length of 1mm or more per 10m

Y: the number of fibers in the cross-section of the spun yarn

Cross-sectional fiber number of spun yarn: 5315×1.11/(English cotton count×dtex of single fiber)

Wherein, when a plurality of single fibers with different deniers are mixed, the number of hairiness can be calculated according to the mixing ratio, and then added.

Next, when the obtained air-jet entangled spun yarn is made into a fabric, the spun yarn may be used alone, or may be entangled with other fibers within the scope of the present invention. The fabric of the present invention can also be used in knitting structures with many embossed structures such as deer point pattern, jacquard structure, and terry structure in addition to common weaving structures such as interlock weave, plain knit, twill weave, and satin weave. can work.

The obtained fabric is further subjected to heat treatment such as hot water treatment similar to general scouring, relaxation, dyeing, etc. In particular, by thermally shrinking the high-shrinkage fibers in the spun yarns constituting the fabric, the spun yarns can be bulked and soft to the touch , and has excellent anti-pilling properties, becoming the required staple fiber fabric.

The spun yarn in the third invention shrinks by 5% to 40% in boiling water. Therefore, it is necessary to design the spun yarn and gray cloth after considering the feel of the finished fabric, eye payment (weight per unit area of Japanese fabric), cloth length, etc. The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the present invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more. In the dyeing process, it is necessary to fully express the potential contraction force of the spun yarn or gray fabric through scouring, relaxation process, dyeing process, etc. It is best to use a liquid flow dyeing machine. It is particularly desirable to perform a uniform and sufficient relaxation treatment at 70-80°C for 10-20 minutes in the scouring and relaxation process, and then raise the temperature. It is best to use softener at the same time.

In the textile fabric in the third invention, singeing, mercerizing, etc. can be performed to improve the quality, feel, and physical properties of other fibers, especially cellulose fibers, etc., but the feature of the present invention is that it is not necessary to obtain the resistance of synthetic fibers. Special singeing, alkali reduction, acid treatment, shearing, etc. are performed to improve pilling, but the finished product of the present invention can also be obtained. Knitted fabrics also do not need to carry out alkali treatment and acid treatment in order to obtain the pilling resistance of synthetic fibers, but the finished product of the present invention can also be obtained. However, in order to obtain the anti-pilling properties of other fibers, resin processing, surface treatment, antibacterial and deodorizing processing, etc. can be performed.

Next, the fourth invention of the present invention will be described.

In the fourth invention of the present invention, two kinds of short fibers with large differences in thermal shrinkage characteristics are used, and the high thermal stress type has a specific fineness and cross-sectional shape of high-shrinkage polyester short fibers and has other specific fineness and cross-sectional shape. The blended form of shortened fibers is made into air-jet entangled spun yarn, the number of hairiness is controlled below a specific number, and at the same time, the complexation between fibers is weakened to obtain anti-pilling, and then soft hand feeling is achieved through different shrinkage differences.

In addition, in the description of this 4th invention, unless otherwise indicated, a fiber means a short fiber.

The copolyester in the fourth invention is a homopolyester such as polyalkylene terephthalate represented by polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, etc. The basic skeleton is formed by copolymerizing bifunctional carboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and adipic acid, or polyhydric alcohol components such as neopentyl glycol and bisphenol A, as copolymerization components.

In the copolyester fiber in the fourth invention, isophthalic acid is preferable as a copolymerization component in terms of heat shrinkage stress and heat shrinkage rate, and the amount of its copolymerization is preferably 4 to 12 mol%, more preferably 5 to 10 mol%. scope. When the amount of copolymerization of isophthalic acid is less than 4 mol%, the shrinkage of the fiber is insufficient, and when it is more than 13 mol%, stress relaxation is likely to occur during post-processing, and the shrinkage force, raw cotton strength, and thermal stability will decrease. In addition, sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate may be contained as a copolymerization component within the range not changing the basic properties of the copolyester fiber in the present invention.

In the copolyester fiber in the 4th invention, the shape of its fiber cross-section can be a common solid circular cross-section, but the fiber cross-section is preferably hollow or Y-shaped, cross-shaped, star-shaped and other fiber cross-sectional outer peripheries with a hollow rate of more than 8%. A profiled section with a degree of irregularity (circumscribed circle diameter/inscribed circle diameter) of 1.8 or more on the protrusion. In addition, the copolyester fiber in the present invention is a high-shrinkage fiber. Ideally, the boiling water shrinkage rate under 20 minutes of free shrinkage in hot water is more than 20%, and the same thermal stress is more than 0.08cN/dtex, more ideally It is more than 30%, and the thermal stress is more than 0.15cN/dtex. By using the above-mentioned high-shrinkage fiber as raw cotton, the mixing ratio of the high-shrinkage fiber in the blended yarn can be reduced, the shrinkage rate of the blended yarn itself can be suppressed, and the difference in shrinkage between fibers can be increased, thereby increasing the bulkiness of the yarn.

In the case of a high-shrinkage hollow fiber, the cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion may be round, elliptical, triangular, flat, square, or the like. The number of hollows in the cross-section may be one or more, and the hollows may be formed during spinning or after dissolving and removing specific components in cotton, silk, or fabric. The total amount of hollow ratio is preferably 8% or more and less than 40%. If it is less than 8%, the shrinkage force will decrease. If it is more than 40%, the cross section will be damaged and the shrinkage effect will be deteriorated.

In addition, it is preferred that the degree of deformity (diameter of circumscribed circle/diameter of inscribed circle) be more than 1.8, especially more than 2.0, with a deformed cross-sectional shape (Y-shaped, cross-shaped, star-shaped, Other groove type, etc.) fibers. When the degree of irregularity is lower than the above value, the stress relaxation is large, and it is difficult to express shrinkage force in the blended yarn, and it is difficult to obtain the desired bulkiness and soft hand feeling.

The fineness of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is preferably 1.0-4.0 dtex, more preferably 1.4-3.5 dtex. If it is too thick, the gray fabric will be hardened and lacks softness. If it is too thin, the contraction force will be reduced, and the bulkiness of the spun yarn will not be sufficient.

The spun yarn (hereinafter also referred to as blended yarn) in the fourth invention contains the above-mentioned high-shrinkage fiber and low-shrinkage fiber having a shrinkage in boiling water of 4% or less.

As for low-shrinkage fibers, they can be used as long as their boiling water shrinkage rate is 4% or less, and there are no special restrictions. However, synthetic fibers are preferred because synthetic fibers can arbitrarily determine the fineness, fiber cross-sectional shape, etc., and polyparaphenylene is particularly preferred. Homopolyester fibers such as polyethylene glycol diformate and polyalkylene terephthalate represented by polybutylene terephthalate.

The mixing ratio of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber in the spun yarn is preferably 10% by mass to 60% by mass, more preferably 15% by mass to 45% by mass. Especially in the case of fibers with a high degree of irregularity, since the shrinkage stress is strong, the mixing ratio is preferably 40% by mass or less. When the mixing ratio exceeds 60%, the shrinkage of the spun yarn itself becomes large, and it becomes difficult to obtain bulkiness as a spun yarn, which affects the texture. On the other hand, if it is less than 10% by mass, a sufficient difference in shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage fiber cannot be obtained, and the bulkiness of the spun yarn may be insufficient, and softness may not be obtained.

According to the fourth invention, by making the high-shrinkage fiber into the above-mentioned high-shrinkage polyester fiber, the mixing ratio of the high-shrinkage fiber in the spun yarn can be reduced, the shrinkage of the spun yarn itself can be moderately suppressed, the bulky feeling can be increased, and a belt can be obtained. The soft texture characterized by the mixed spinning material.

The fineness of the low-shrinkage fiber in the fourth invention is preferably 0.1 to 5.0 dtex, and the cross-sectional shape of the fiber can be a common solid circular cross-section, but a hollow fiber with a hollow rate of 8% or more or a polyester short fiber with a degree of irregularity of 1.8 or more. Fiber is ideal in terms of pilling resistance. This is because the fiber having the above-mentioned fineness and shape has a small number of fiber cross-sections and strong rigidity, so the fibers are not easily entangled, and it is easy to obtain pilling resistance. However, it is not limited to the above-mentioned fibers, as long as the pilling resistance satisfies grade 3 or higher, natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, hemp, rayon, modal, cupro, polynosic fiber, リヨセル can also be used. , acetate fiber (two, three) and other regenerated fibers, refined fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, polyamide fibers, polypropylene terephthalate fibers, cationic dyeable or atmospheric dyeable polyester fibers, polyester Synthetic fibers such as 2-component spun panel linear fibers of amide fibers and polyester fibers, and the above fibers may be used in combination.

The low-shrinkage synthetic fiber among the low-shrinkage fibers may contain 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of inorganic particles such as titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, or kaolin. When titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, etc. are contained, heat retention can be improved by absorbing radiant heat from body temperature and storing the heat inside the fiber. In addition, titanium oxide absorbs visible light, shields sunlight, and has the effect of preventing temperature rise in clothes in summer. When the content of the inorganic particles exceeds 5.0% by mass, the spinnability deteriorates, and when the content of the inorganic particles is less than 0.1% by mass, it becomes difficult to obtain heat retention and heat insulating effects.

In addition, when the low-shrinkage fiber is a high-profile Y-shaped cross-section fiber with a profile degree of about 2.4, if an external force is applied in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, the fiber will be deformed accordingly, and will return to its original state when the external force is removed. It has a moderate cushioning effect and brings a soft feel. It has the same resistance to the deformation of the length direction as the hollow cross-section fiber, which can weaken the complexation between fibers. Using the synergistic effect with the fineness, it can improve the pilling resistance. sex.

The boiling water shrinkage of the low-shrinkage fiber must be below 4.0%, so as to increase the shrinkage difference between the high-shrinkage fiber and the high-shrinkage fiber, and obtain a bulky and soft spun yarn, and it is more ideally below 3.0%. In the blended yarn of the finished fabric, the fiber length difference between the high-shrinkage fiber and the low-shrinkage fiber is preferably 7% or more, more preferably 8% or more. If it is less than 7%, bulkiness and softness as gray cloth tend to be lacking. Additives contained in the spun yarn may be antibacterial and deodorant agents, leveling agents, antifungal agents, pigments, etc., in addition to the titanium oxide, zirconium carbide, and kaolin, and are not particularly limited.

The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the present invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more.

As the method for producing the spun yarn in the fourth invention, that is, the method of blending high-shrinkage polyester staple fibers and other low-shrinkage fibers, it is possible to use thick yarns of a uniform blending method such as carded blending, but it is desirable to use the following method: Obtained by the above method: before the coarse filament process such as sliver blending, etc., the high-shrinkage fiber is mostly distributed in the fiber core, and the low-shrinkage fiber is mostly distributed in the core-shell structure of the outer layer, and then in the spinning process The thick filaments are drawn in the spinning process, or the thick filaments of high-shrinkage fibers and low-shrinkage fibers are drawn in the drafting zone of the spinning process, and then made into high-speed air-entangled yarns such as air-end spinning and wrap spinning. The air-jet entanglement spinning method mentioned above is different from the ring spun yarn, and has the effect of suppressing the hairiness of the silk in terms of the silk structure, but it also tends to become hard to the touch. In the present invention, the spinning conditions must consider the feel, bulkiness and pilling resistance of the spun yarn, and it is best to avoid low-speed spinning under high air pressure that increases the degree of entanglement and becomes hard.

The spun yarn spun in the fourth invention is an air-jet entangled spun yarn in which the relationship between the number of hairiness (K) of the spun yarn and the number of fibers (A) in the cross-section of the spun yarn satisfies the following formula (1).

0.4A≤K≤3A (1) formula

X: The number of hairs with a length of 1mm or more per 10m

Y: the number of fibers in the cross-section of the spun yarn

Cross-sectional fiber number of spun yarn: 5315×1.11/(English cotton count×dtex of single fiber)

Here, when a plurality of single fibers with different deniers are mixed, the number of hairiness is calculated based on the mixing ratio, and then added.

Next, when the obtained spun yarn is made into a fabric, the spun yarn may be used alone, or may be interwoven with other fibers within the scope of the present invention. The fabric of the present invention can also be used in knitting structures with many embossed structures such as deer point pattern, jacquard structure, and terry structure in addition to common weaving structures such as interlock weave, plain knit, twill weave, and satin weave. can work.

The obtained fabric is further subjected to heat treatment such as hot water treatment similar to general scouring, relaxation, dyeing, etc. In particular, by thermally shrinking the high-shrinkage fibers in the spun yarns constituting the fabric, the spun yarns can be bulked and soft. Hand feeling, and has excellent anti-pilling properties, becoming the required short fiber fabric.

The spun yarn in the fourth invention shrinks by 5% to 40% in boiling water. Therefore, it is necessary to design the spun yarn and the gray cloth after considering the hand feel, eye payment, cloth length, etc. of the finished fabric. The boiling water shrinkage of the spun yarn in the present invention is preferably 8% or more, more preferably 12% or more.

In the dyeing process, it is necessary to fully express the potential contraction force of the spun yarn or gray fabric through scouring, relaxation process, dyeing process, etc. It is best to use a liquid flow dyeing machine. It is particularly desirable that in the scouring and relaxation process, after uniform and sufficient relaxation treatment is performed at 70-80° C. for 10-20 minutes, the temperature is raised. It is best to use softener at the same time.

In the textile fabric in the fourth invention, treatments such as singeing and mercerizing may be performed for the purpose of improving the quality, feel, and physical properties of other fibers, especially cellulose fibers, etc., but the feature of the present invention is that it is not necessary to obtain The anti-pilling properties of synthetic fibers are subjected to special singeing, alkali reduction, acid treatment, shearing, etc., but the finished product of the present invention can also be obtained. Alkaline and acid treatments are also not required in knitted fabrics to obtain the pilling resistance of synthetic fibers, but the finished product can also be obtained. However, in order to obtain the pilling resistance of other fibers, resin processing, surface care, antibacterial and deodorizing processing, etc. can be implemented.

Example

The present invention will be specifically described below using examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

(Examples 1-5, Comparative Examples 1-6)

First, the first invention of the present invention will be described by way of examples.

All use the polyester resin that intrinsic viscosity is 0.63 in the embodiment, comparative example, use each spinneret of Y-shape profile use, hollow use and solid use, respectively at polymer temperature 290 ℃, spinning speed is 1600m/min After spinning under the conditions of 140m/min and 112°C, the stretching ratios are respectively: 2.34 for Y-shaped special-shaped fibers, 2.84 for hollow fibers (round, triangular, and square-shaped are all So), the solid fiber is 2.60, and the cut length is 38mm, and the number of crimps is about 14/25mm polyester staple fibers.

Murata Vortex Spinner (Murata Vortex Spinner) MVS manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was used for wrap spinning, and spinning was carried out under the conditions of a nozzle pressure of 0.45 MPa and a spinning speed of 350 m/min. Among them, only Example 5 had a spinning speed of 400 m/min, and only Comparative Example 6 had a spinning speed of 200 m/min.

The twist coefficient of the ring-spun yarn of Comparative Example 1 was 3.2, and the British cotton count of 30 was obtained. The double rib weave of the knitted fabric is under the conditions of 22 gauge (gauge), the length of the loop (loop) is 325mm, and the number of wales (wales) is 100, and the plain stitch is 28 gauge, the length of the loop is 275mm , Weaving was carried out under the condition that the number of wales was 100. Furthermore, the gray cloth is dried after being opened and wet-treated, and then intermediately set at 180° C. for 40 seconds. After that, the double rib and plain weave are also dyed in batches with a high-pressure liquid flow dyeing machine (130°C, 20 minutes, fluorescent disperse dye 0.8% omf), reduced and washed, dehydrated and dried, and then dyed at 160°C for 60 seconds. The finishing touches.

The measurement conditions of the knitted fabric are as follows.

(1) UV shielding rate and visible light transmittance

·Using UV-3100PC integrating sphere attachment ISR-3100 integrating sphere manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation with an inner diameter of 60 mmΦ (using an ultraviolet band-pass filter), it was measured under the following conditions.

·Standard white board: barium sulfate

· Ultraviolet shielding rate measurement wavelength: 280nm ~ 400nm

Visible light transmittance measurement wavelength: 380nm～780nm

(2) Gray cloth thickness: Using a dial thickness gauge, two sheets of gray cloth were stacked together, and the average value was obtained for each sheet of 5 times of measuring the center portion of the gray cloth along the longitudinal direction.

(3) Anti-pilling property: Measured according to JIS L 1076 A method (ICI-type testing machine judged in 5 hours).

(4) Evaluation of raw cotton and gray cloth: Evaluation was performed on the following three levels.

○: Good, ○△: Partially good, ×: Not good.

The ultraviolet shielding rate and visible light transmittance of fabrics generally depend on the polymer properties of fibers, fiber morphology (degree of shape, cross-sectional shape, presence or absence of crimps, and how much), type and content of inorganic particles, single filament fineness, silk fineness And twist structure, structure density, organization, thickness, color, etc.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained fibers and fabrics using the same.

Table 1 raw cotton spinning knitted fabric Overview Section shape Irregularity Hollow rate (%) TiO ₂ (mass%) Denier (dtex) method Hairiness (root/10m) pilling thick mm BaiDu UV shielding rate (%) Visible light transmittance (%) 1mm long 3mm long Example 1 Y type 2.4 - 0.4 1.6 Wrap around 159 3 4-5 0.39 ○ 86.0 37.1 ○ 2 field type - 38 (4 holes) 0.4 2.0 Wrap around 170 4 5 0.39 ○ 87.6 36.4 ○ 3 field type - 38 (4 holes) 0.9 2.0 Wrap around 188 7 5 0.40 ○△ 91.9 31.8 ○ 4 Y type 2.4 - 0.8 1.6 Wrap around 171 6 4-5 0.40 ○△ 91.3 32.8 ○ 5 Y type 2.4 - 0.4 1.6 Wrap around 277 3 4 0.38 ○ 85.9 37.6 ○ comparative example 1 Y type 2.4 - 0.4 1.6 Ring Spin 1655 203 2-3 0.37 ○ 87.9 32.3 x 2 round - -(solid) 0.4 1.6 Wrap around 177 4 4 0.32 ○ 79.7 43.0 x 3 round - -(solid) 0.4 2.0 Wrap around 153 6 4-5 0.33 ○ 77.8 47.2 x 4 △ type 1.4 - 0.4 1.6 Wrap around 161 4 4-5 0.32 ○ 82.9 42.0 x 5 round - -(solid) 3.5 2.0 Wrap around 143 8 5 0.35 x 92.2 30.1 x 6 Y type 2.4 - 0.4 1.6 Wrap around 25 1 5 0.36 ○ 82.4 40.9 x

In Examples 1 to 5, the number of hairiness was small, and the pilling property was at a satisfactory level of 4-5 or higher not only for the plain stitch, but also for the interlock stitch. In addition, compared with the comparative example, there is gray cloth thickness (bulkyness), the ultraviolet shielding rate is high, and the visible light transmittance is also small. On the other hand, in Examples 3 and 4, although the amount of titanium oxide was somewhat larger, the whiteness was not affected, and thus the color rendering was not affected, and sufficient whiteness was obtained more than Comparative Example 5. In Comparative Example 1, both the ultraviolet shielding rate and the visible light transmittance were good, but there was a lot of hairiness, and the pilling property in the interlock weave was poor, ranking 1-2. In Comparative Examples 2 to 5, the hairiness was less, and the pilling property was grade 3 or higher, but both the ultraviolet shielding rate and the visible light transmittance were inferior. This may be due to the large friction between fibers and between fibers and metal, the warp and weft entanglement between fibers is easy, and the apparent fiber diameter is relatively thick. Compared with Examples 1-5, which tend to become bulky, the thickness of gray cloth Poor surface reflectivity caused by fiber morphology and other reasons also caused adverse effects.

In addition, Comparative Examples 2 to 5, in which the cross-section of the fiber is round or low in shape, does not exhibit a cushioning and soft feel like the Y-shaped fibers of Examples 1, 4, and 5, but the thickness of the gray fabric is poor, and it is rough. Gray fabric with a strong hard feel. In Example 5, compared with Example 1, the number of hairiness was increased, but it had a soft texture similar to that of ring-spun yarn, and the pilling property was maintained at level 4 even in the interlock weave, and had sufficient performance.

In Comparative Example 6, the yarn speed during spinning was set at a low speed. Compared with other cases, the number of hairs with a length of 1 mm or more was drastically reduced to 25, and the pilling resistance was improved. However, due to the strong degree of entanglement, the hand feeling becomes rough and hard, which has a tendency completely different from the bulkiness and soft hand feeling shown in Examples 1 and 4, resulting in a decrease in the ultraviolet shielding rate and a decrease in the visible light transmittance. Also larger knits.

Examples 1 to 5 all have practical anti-pilling properties and color rendering properties, and have an ultraviolet shielding rate and anti-seepage effect similar to that of a completely matte silk. Compared with ring spun yarn, wrap spun yarn has less hairiness and is excellent in pilling resistance, but its disadvantage is that it is different from ring spun yarn in hard hand feeling, and its improvement is very difficult, and only the constituent requirements of the present invention are satisfied Only in this way can it not only have a soft feel, but also have anti-pilling properties, UV shielding properties, anti-penetration properties, and color rendering properties.

Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the pilling resistance when the spun yarns described in the examples and comparative examples in Table 1 were made into interlock weaves.

Table 2 Example comparative example 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 6 Fabric thickness (mm) 0.63 0.68 0.70 0.64 0.63 0.59 0.57 0.59 0.58 0.62 0.63 Pilling (level) 4-5 5 4-5 4-5 4 1-2 3 4 4 4-5 5

(Examples 6-12, Comparative Examples 7-11)

Next, the second invention will be described by way of examples.

Examples and comparative examples all use homopolymer polyester resin (polyethylene terephthalate), and after spinning at a common melting temperature, stretching at a stretching temperature of 190° C. and a crimping temperature of 110° C. Manufactured under crimping process conditions, 1.6T, 38mm raw cotton with a sharp Y-shaped cross-sectional shape (degree of irregularity 2.4) was obtained.

Murata vortex spinner MVS manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. was used in the air-jet entanglement (wrapping) spinning, and the spinning speed was 400 m/min in Example 6 and 200 m/min in Comparative Example 4, all at a nozzle pressure of 0.45 m/min. Spinning under the conditions of MPa and spinning speed of 350m/min. The twist coefficient of the ring spun yarn is 3.2, and the British cotton count of the two spun yarns is 30.

Raw cotton and spun yarn were all subjected to graft polymerization processing under the following conditions. Using an Ombuds cycle machine (オ-バ-マイヤ-, Obermaier), scoured under the condition of Neugen HC 1g/l, washed with boiling water, and then 100% methacrylic acid 20% omf in dispersant 1.0% omf, Swelling agent 1.0% omf, soda ash 0.8% omf, liquor ratio 1:10, and 100°C were used for graft polymerization for 40 minutes. The grafting rate was 16%. Afterwards, wash with boiling water, and carry out neutralization treatment under the conditions of 4.0% omf of soda ash, 0.15% omf of sodium tripolyphosphate, and 70°C. Then put in soda ash 12% omf and sodium tripolyphosphate 0.15% omf three times at 70°C for sodium salt treatment, and then wash with boiling water. The standard moisture content of the raw cotton and spun yarn is 7.2%. Only by changing the usage amount of the above-mentioned reagents, the graft polymerization processed raw cotton with the graft polymerization rate of raw cotton of 26% and 11% was obtained. The moisture content after sodium salification was 12.1% and 4.4%, respectively. Using the above-mentioned graft polymerization processed raw cotton, the steps after the sodium salt treatment are performed in the knitted form. Table 1 shows the blending ratio, knitted gray fabric properties and evaluation results of the graft-polymerized raw cotton used in wrap spinning. (omf means mass % relative to fiber mass)

The spun yarn is woven into a double rib weave (22 gauge, pile length 325mm, 100W), and then the gray cloth is dried after being opened and wet, and then intermediately set at 180° C. for 40 seconds. Then carry out sodium salt treatment with the reagent amount suitable for the grafting rate, and wash with boiling water. Thereafter, dehydration drying was carried out, and final setting was carried out at 160° C. for 60 seconds to obtain a double rib knit fabric as a natural color yarn (成り).

The measurement and evaluation of the spun yarn and gray cloth were carried out under the following conditions.

(5) Number of yarn hairiness: It indicates the number of hairiness of more than 1mm and shorter than 3mm, and more than 3mm per 10m of yarn length. As a tester, an F-1 indextester manufactured by Shikishima Textile Co., Ltd. was used.

(6) Standard moisture content: measured according to JIS L 1095.

(7) Light fastness: measured according to JIS L 0842 ultraviolet carbon arc light test (third exposure method).

(8) Dimensional change rate: Measured according to JIS L 1018F-1 (screen drying).

(9) Anti-pilling property: Measured according to JIS L 1076 A method (ICI type 5 hours).

(10) Hand feeling: Judgment based on the touch feeling of 5 people on the silk sheet (panela).

○: Soft and excellent dry feeling, ○△: Some slippery feeling, ×: Strong slippery feeling or strong rough feeling.

(11) In the comprehensive evaluation column, ○ is good, ○△ is somewhat good, and × is bad.

table 3 Standard moisture content of cotton (%) Mixing rate (%) Cotton blending method and spinning method Standard moisture content of spun yarn (%) Yarn hairiness Dimensional change rate (%) feel Pilling (level) Light fastness (grade) Overview grafted cotton untreated cotton More than 1mm and less than 3mm 3mm or more horizontal vertical when dry when wet Comparative Example 7 12.1 100 0 Carded blended cotton wrap spinning 12.1 171 4 -14.3 -8.2 ○ x 4-5 ≤4 x Example 6 12.1 50 cores 50 shells Cotton sliver blended wrap spinning 6.5 168 3 -4.9 -2.9 ○ ○△ 4 4 ○ Example 7 12.1 30 shells 70 shells Cotton sliver blended wrap spinning 3.6 165 3 -2.0 -1.6 ○ ○ 4 ≥4 ○ Comparative Example 8 7.2 100 0 Carded blended cotton wrap spinning 7.3 166 3 -10.6 -5.7 ○ x 4-5 2 x Example 8 7.2 40 60 Carded blended cotton wrap spinning 3.0 171 3 -2.1 -1.0 ○ ○ 4 4 ○ Example 9 4.4 50 50 Carded blended cotton wrap spinning 2.2 163 3 -1.9 -0.3 ○ ○△ 4 ≥4 ○ Comparative Example 9 4.4 100 0 Carded blended ring spinning 4.4 1660 203 -3.5 -1.6 ○ ○△ 2 ≥4 x Example 10 12.1 60 cores 40 shells Air-jet blending of filaments on wrapped spun yarn blended from sliver 5.3 134 2 -3.1 -0.8 ○ ○ 4 ≥4 ○ Example 11 12.1 30 cores 70 shells Cotton sliver blended wrap spinning 3.6 282 4 -2.1 -1.8 ○ ○ 4 ≥4 ○ Comparative Example 10 12.1 100 0 Carded blended cotton wrap spinning 12.1 25 1 -11.6 -6.0 x x 5 ≤4 x

Examples 6, 7, and 11 are examples in which most of the graft-polymerized fibers are distributed on the fiber core and most of the untreated raw cotton is distributed on the outer layer by performing sliver blending. Examples 6-11 all have better pilling resistance than the ring-spun yarn of Comparative Example 9. This may be due to less hairiness due to the spinning method.

In Comparative Examples 8 and 9, the standard moisture content is relatively high, but they have slippery feeling when wet, poor wearing feeling, high dimensional change rate, and lack of dimensional stability unique to polyester. In contrast, Examples 6 to 11 all mixed untreated raw cotton, or made a structure in which most of the grafted and polymerized fibers were distributed in the inner layer of the spun yarn, so the hygroscopicity was not impaired, and it did not feel slippery when wet Feeling, and endowed with a dry feeling, so it can improve the comfort when wearing, and obtain practical light fastness.

In Example 10, the surface of the spun yarn was further covered with multifilaments, and the same effect was obtained in this case. In Example 10, the cotton sliver of Example 6 was used to blend and spin 40 counts of wrapped spun yarn, using the nozzle (P133 type) manufactured by Uba-Rayso Co. , air pressure 4.0kg/cm ² , and speed 200m minutes under the conditions of intertwining 55T, 36 filament Y-shaped cross-section (deformation degree 2.0, titanium oxide content 0.4 mass%) false twist processed yarn in the spun yarn to make entangled spun yarn . The entangled spun yarn is an entangled spun yarn having a degree of entanglement of 82 pieces/m and corresponding to a count of 29. The entangled spun yarn is a spun yarn in the form of being covered with opposing filaments, so there is little difference in gloss between the filaments and the spun yarn, and a uniform appearance with little hairiness is exhibited. In addition, the entangled spun yarn had a structure in which a graft-polymerized fiber having a mixing rate of 43.6% was mostly distributed in the inner layer of the spun yarn. After performing the same dyeing, sodium salt treatment, and finishing as in Examples 6 to 9, gray fabrics with a dry feel and a comfortable feel were obtained even when wet.

In Comparative Example 10, compared with the Examples, the number of hairs with a length of 1 mm or more dropped sharply to 25, but the gray fabric obtained was rough and hard, and had a slippery and hard feeling when wet, which was not ideal. The number of hairiness in Example 11 is higher than that of other wrapped spun yarns, but significantly less than that of the ring-spun yarn of Comparative Example 9. The knitted fabric is soft and has a cushioning effect, and the pilling resistance is also good, ranking 4.

In Comparative Example 11, a knitted fabric was obtained under the same conditions as in Example 8 except that the cross-sectional shape of the fiber was circular. Even when dry, it has a slippery flat feel unique to a round cross section, which is different from the non-slippery dry feel and soft cushioning effect of Example 8, which is composed only of the Y shape.

In Example 12, 55 counts of wrapping were wound thinly and loosely (winding density 0.26cm ³ /g) on the dyeing tube, and graft polymerization was carried out with an Austenitic circulator, and the resulting graft polymerization process The moisture absorption rate of the spun yarn after sodium salt treatment was 4.0%. The mass of this spun yarn after graft polymerization processing corresponded to 49 counts. Filament blending was performed on the spun yarn under the same conditions as in Example 10, except that 84T and 48 filament circular cross-section false-twisted processed yarns were used. The surface of the spun yarn was covered with relative filaments having a count of 29, an entanglement degree of 78/m, and a blending ratio of graft-polymerized fibers of 59%. Then, the same weaving, dyeing, and sodium salt treatment as in Examples 6 to 10 were performed, and finishing was performed. The standard moisture content of the gray cloth is 2.4%. The dimensional change rate after washing is -2.9% and -1.6% for the courses and wales respectively. The handle is good, and there is no slippery feeling when it is dry or wet. The anti-pilling is grade 5 and the light fastness is grade 4. , has sufficient practical performance.

(Examples 13-17, Comparative Examples 12-17)

Next, the third invention will be described by way of examples.

test methods

(12) Hot water shrinkage of raw cotton fiber: measured according to the hot water shrinkage standard of JIS L 1015. The boiling water treatment time was 20 minutes, and 20 minutes at 130° C. for high-melting-point fibers prone to crimping.

(13) The number of hairiness of the spun yarn: using the F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Textile Co., Ltd., the number of hairiness with a median length of 1 mm or more per 10 m of yarn length was obtained.

(14) Washing method of gray cloth: according to JIS L 0217 103 method.

(15) Stretchability of gray fabrics: Textiles and knitted fabrics are measured according to the following methods: (textiles) JIS L 1096 elongation B method (constant load method: 1.47N 1 point) (knitted fabrics) JIS L 1018 constant Elongation under load (cut strip method)

(16) Pilling resistance of gray cloth: Measured according to JIS L 1076 A method (ICI type testing machine, 5 hours).

(17) Handfeel evaluation of gray fabric: Judging and evaluating softness and bulkiness by 5 persons touching the silk sheet.

⊚: Soft and excellent bulkiness, ◯: Softness and bulkiness are generally good, ×: Hard without bulkiness, unfavorable.

(18) In the column of comprehensive evaluation, ◎ means very good, ○ means almost good, and × means poor.

(Example 13)

(Manufacture of curl-prone polyester fiber I)

As the polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.607, melting point 265°C) was used, and as the polyester (B), polyethylene terephthalate was used as the basic skeleton. , 4mol% of the acid component is isophthalic acid, 2mol% is the copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.637, fusing point 248 ℃) of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate, with composite spinneret at polymer temperature 282 ℃, spinning Spinning was performed at a yarn speed of 1600 m/min. Thereafter, in the stretching step, stretching was carried out under conditions of a stretching temperature of 155° C., a stretching ratio of 2.64, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The obtained side-by-side crimp-prone polyester fiber I (denier 2.0 dtex, cut length 38 mm) with a solid circular cross-section had a hot water shrinkage rate (130° C., 20 minutes, natural shrinkage) of 37.8%.

Using the Murata Vortex Rotator MVS manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd., the yarn grain (スライバ-ゲレソ) is set to 300, the draw ratio is 180 times, the nozzle pressure is 0.45MPa, and the spinning speed is 400m/min. The obtained crimp-prone polyester fiber is spun to obtain an air-jet entangled spun yarn with an English cotton count of 30. The number of hairiness (Y) of the spun yarn was 225, the number of cross-sectional fibers (X) was 98, and Y/X was 2.3.

The obtained spun yarn was used as a weft, and a cotton yarn having an English cotton count of 30 was used as a warp to obtain a twill fabric. After desizing and scouring the fabric, relax it with a liquid flow dyeing machine at 120°C for 20 minutes, then dehydrate and dry it, and then perform intermediate setting at 170°C for 30 seconds. Use a high-pressure dyeing machine to disperse fluorescent dyes with 0.8% omf Dyeing at 130°C for 30 minutes, reduction washing, dehydration and drying, then singeing of cotton, and final setting at 170°C for 30 seconds. Evaluate the gray fabric quality, stretchability and hand feeling after intermediate setting and final setting. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the gray cloth obtained. The number of hairiness of this textile is 160, there are almost no feathers in the intermediate setting and final setting, the elongation of the gray fabric is 34.2%, and it is a soft textile with a certain dry feeling.

(comparative example 12)

With the crimp-prone polyester fiber obtained in Example 13, ring spun yarn (30 British counts, twist coefficient 3.2) was obtained under the conditions of thick filament 140 grains, draw ratio 36 times, spinning frame speed 9000rpm. Except for using the obtained ring-spun yarn as the weft, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 13, and the quality, stretchability, and hand of the gray fabric after the intermediate setting and the final setting were evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1. . Although the elongation of the gray cloth is 37.6%, feather balls have been produced in the middle setting stage, which shows that the quality of the gray cloth is poor. As in the past, it is necessary to remove the badminton through singeing and alkali reduction treatment.

(comparative example 13)

(Manufacture of curl-prone polyester fiber II)

As polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.607, melting point 265°C) was used, and as polyester (B), the following was used in a ratio of 50/50 (mass ratio) The melting point obtained by the two polyesters is a copolyester of 244.5° C., the two polyesters are respectively, with polyethylene terephthalate as the basic skeleton and 2.5 mol% of the diol component being diethylene glycol, acid Copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.646) of isophthalic acid with 10 mol% of the ingredients, and polyethylene terephthalate as the basic skeleton, 3.3% of the diol component is diethylene glycol, and 4.4% of the acid component It is a copolyester of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.390), and it is spun under the conditions of a polymer temperature of 285° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m/min with a composite spinneret. Thereafter, in the stretching step, stretching was carried out under conditions of a stretching temperature of 155° C., a stretching ratio of 2.64, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. Side-by-side crimp-prone polyester fibers (fineness 1.0 dtex, cut length 38 mm) were obtained. The hot water shrinkage rate (130° C., 20 minutes, natural shrinkage) of this fiber was 36.5%. An air-entangled spun yarn having an English cotton count of 30 was obtained by using the obtained crimp-prone polyester fiber. The number of hairiness (Y) of the spun yarn was 599, the number of cross-sectional fibers (X) was 197, and Y/X was 3.0. This spun yarn was treated in the same manner as in Example 1 until the finished textile was obtained, and evaluated in the same manner. The results are shown in Table 4.

Table 4 Spun yarn (weft) Gray cloth characteristics Overview curl-prone fibers English cotton count spinning method Cross section fiber number X Hairiness root number Y Y/X Hairiness quality Pilling grade feel Elasticity elongation % Denier dtex Example 13 2.0 30 Wrap around 98 225 2.3 ○ 4 ○soft 34.2 ○ Comparative Example 12 2.0 30 Ring Spin 98 1901 19.4 x 1 ◎soft 37.6 x Comparative Example 13 1.0 30 Wrap around 197 599 3.0 △ 1-2 ○soft 36.1 x

Comparative example 12 is the case of the conventional ring spun yarn. Although the elongation of the textile fabric is 37.6%, feathers have been completely generated in the intermediate setting stage, showing that the quality of the gray fabric is poor. As in the past, it is necessary to remove the badminton through singeing and alkali reduction treatment. In Comparative Example 13, the number of hairiness in the silk is large, although it is not as many as in Comparative Example 12, but feathers have been produced in the intermediate setting process. In terms of quality after final setting, it is still necessary to go through singeing and alkali reduction. Or shearing removes feather shuttlecock, compared with embodiment 13 quality is poor.

(Example 14)

(Manufacture of Y-section fiber)

Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity: 0.633) was spun under conditions of a polymer temperature of 288° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m/min using a spinneret for fibers having a Y-shaped cross-section. Thereafter, in the stretching process, stretching was carried out under the conditions of a stretching temperature of 112° C., a stretching ratio of 2.32, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The boiling water shrinkage of the obtained Y-shaped cross-sectional low-shrinkage fiber (fineness: 1.3 dtex, degree of irregularity: 2.4, cut length: 38 mm) was 1.4%.

After carding and blending with the low-shrinkage fiber of the obtained Y-shaped cross section and the above-mentioned crimping tendency polyester fiber II, the sliver grain is set to 200, The draw ratio was 160 times, and spinning was performed under the conditions of nozzle pressure 0.45 MPa and spinning speed 400 m/min to obtain wrapped spun yarns with an English cotton count of 40 counts. The blending ratio of the crimp-prone polyester fiber II in the spun yarn was 20%, and the blending ratio of the low-shrinkage fiber was 80%. The number of hairiness (Y) of the spun yarn was 245, the number of cross-sectional fibers (X) was 120, and Y/X was 2.20.

A plain knitted fabric was obtained using the obtained spun yarn under the conditions of 22 gauge, pile length per 100 wales, and 325 mm. This knitted fabric is carried out open-width, carries out the relaxation thermal shrinkage treatment at 80 ℃ for 10 minutes together with liquid flow dyeing machine and scouring agent, afterward, is heated up to 110 ℃, carries out 10 minutes thermal shrinkage treatment. Afterwards, it was dehydrated and dried, and intermediate setting was performed at 170°C for 40 seconds with a りりtowel . Then use a high-pressure liquid flow dyeing machine to dye with 0.8% omf disperse fluorescent dye for 20 minutes at 130 ° C, reduce and wash, dehydrate and dry, and use a りり towel to perform final setting at 160 ° C for 60 seconds. Table 5 shows the evaluation results of the gray cloth obtained.

(comparative example 14)

Except that the spun yarn was changed to ring spun yarn (the same manufacturing method as in Comparative Example 13), the ring spun yarn with the same fiber structure as in Example 14 was obtained, and the manufacturing method from the knitted fabric to the finished gray cloth was the same as in Example 14. . The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(Example 15)

In Example 14, the blending ratio of the crimp-prone polyester fiber II was changed to 30%, and the Y-shaped cross-section fiber was changed to rayon fiber (fineness 1.7 dtex, cut length 38 mm), and other than that, from spun yarn to final setting The manufacturing method of gray cloth is the same as in Example 14. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(Example 16)

(Manufacture of curl-prone polyester fiber III)

As the polyester (A), polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.627, melting point 265°C) was used, and as the polyester (B), polyethylene terephthalate was used as the basic skeleton. , and copolymerized 30mol% copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.607, fusing point 162°C) of neopentyl glycol as a diol component, with a composite spinneret at a polymer temperature of 282°C and a spinning speed of 1700m/min spinning. Thereafter, in the stretching step, the stretching temperature was set to room temperature, the stretching ratio was 2.55, and the stretching speed was 150 m/min. After crimping, staple fibers were produced. The obtained side-by-side crimp-prone polyester fiber III (denier: 1.6 dtex, cut length: 38 mm) with a solid circular cross section had a shrinkage in boiling water of 53.2%.

Use the obtained crimp tendency polyester fiber III and the above-mentioned Y-shaped cross-section fiber to change the cotton blending method into a sliver blending method (the fiber core is mostly distributed with curl tendency polyester fiber III, and the outer layer is mostly distributed with Y core-shell structure of Y-shaped cross-section fibers), and the mixing rate of Y-shaped cross-section fibers was changed from 80% to 70%, except that, the same process was carried out as in Example 14 to obtain wrapped spun yarns, knitted fabrics, and open-width gray fabrics. Next, after relaxation at 70°C, the dyeing temperature was set at 100°C, the intermediate setting was at 130°C, and the final setting was at 120°C, and the final setting gray fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 14, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(Example 17)

The crimp tendency polyester fiber III is changed into the crimp tendency polyester fiber II, and the Y-shaped cross-section fiber is changed into a common solid circular cross-section polyethylene terephthalate fiber (denier 2.0dtex). In addition, it is the same as the embodiment 16 Similarly, the final set gray fabric was obtained from the wrapped spun yarn, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(comparative example 15)

The wrapped spun yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 17, except that the wrapped spun yarn had very little hairiness with a hairiness number (Y) of 15, a cross-sectional fiber number (X) of 74, and a Y/X of 0.2. The gray fabric is finished and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(Comparative Example 16)

Except having used alone the low-shrinkage fiber which is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (denier: 2.0 dtex) which is a usual solid circular cross-section, the finished gray fabric was obtained from the spun yarn in the same manner as in Example 14, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

(Comparative Example 17)

In Example 14, except that the fineness of the crimp-prone polyester fiber II was changed to 4.4 dtex, the finished gray fabric was obtained from the spun yarn in the same manner as in Example 14, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 5.

table 5 curl-prone fibers Low shrinkage fiber (blend fiber) Yarn characteristics Gray cloth characteristics Overview Denier (dtex) Mixing rate% Denier (dtex) section Irregularity Mixing rate% blending method Blending method English cotton count Cross section fiber number X Hairiness root number Y Y/X Pilling (level) feel Unit payment g/m ² Example 14 1.0 20 1.3 Y type 2.4 80 Carding Wrap around 40 120 245 2.0 4 ○soft 149 ○ Comparative Example 14 1.0 20 1.3 Y type 2.4 80 Carding Ring Spin 40 120 1380 11.5 1 ○soft 152 x Example 15 1.0 30 Rayon, 1.7dtex 70 Carding Wrap around 40 105 203 1.9 4-5 ○soft 140 ○ Example 16 1.6 30 1.3 Y type 2.4 70 Sliver# Wrap around 40 107 235 2.2 4 ◎soft 146 ○ Example 17 2.0 30 2.0 round - 70 Sliver# Wrap around 40 74 155 2.1 4 ○soft 161 ○ Comparative Example 15 2.0 30 2.0 round - 70 Sliver# Wrap around 40 74 15 0.2 5 × hard 139 x Comparative Example 16 - - 2.0 round - 100 Carding Wrap around 40 74 170 2.3 5 × hard 124 x Comparative Example 17 3.0 20 1.3 Y type 2.4 80 Carding Wrap around 40 101 215 2.1 1-2 ○soft 148 x

#core/shell (curl-prone fiber/low shrinkage fiber) shape

Example 14 has less hairiness, soft and dry feel and sufficient stretchability (the stretch rate at constant load is 30% or more), and compared with Comparative Example 17 which does not contain curl-prone fibers, it is bulky and increased. 20.2% eye pay, anti-pilling is good, it is grade 4. Comparative Example 14, which had the same fiber structure as Example 2 and used a conventional ring-spun yarn, was bulky and had a soft feel, but fluffy feathers were formed all over the surface, and the quality was poor and the pilling resistance was poor, ranking first.

The anti-pilling property of Example 15 is relatively good, which is grade 4-5. It has a moderate bulky feeling and achieves a soft hand feeling similar to that of ring-spun yarn. used level. Examples 16 and 17 use slivers with a core-shell structure in which more curl-prone fibers are distributed in the fiber core, so there are almost no feathers on the knitted fabric, which is full of bulkiness, softness and good pilling resistance. level 4. Example 16, which has a particularly strong shrinkage force, has more bulkiness and softness than Example 17, and becomes a fabric with good stretchability and recovery.

Comparative Example 15 and Example 17 have the same structure, and the number of hairiness is small, but the entanglement is too strong, and the characteristics of fibers with a tendency to curl cannot be brought into play. There is little difference from the conventional air-jet entangled spun yarn obtained from a single fiber, and the hand feeling is relatively strong. It is hard and has almost no elasticity. In Comparative Example 16, although the pilling resistance was good, the texture was thin and the touch was hard, and the quality was inferior to that of Examples. In addition, in Comparative Example 17, although the number of hairs was small, many feather balls were generated in the knit fabric embodying crimping process, and although it was less than Comparative Example 14, the quality was not good enough to be practical. This is probably because the crimp-prone fibers are more distributed on the surface of the spun yarn than in Examples.

(Examples 18-22, Comparative Examples 18-21)

The following examples illustrate the present invention.

test methods

(19) Boiling water shrinkage of raw cotton fiber: Measured according to the hot water shrinkage standard of JIS L 1015. The boiling water treatment time is 20 minutes.

(20) Thermal stress of raw cotton fiber: Measured under conditions of an initial load of 0.059 cN/dtex and a heating rate of 10°C/min using a thermal stress strain measuring device EMA/SS100 manufactured by Seiko Denshi Kogyo Co., Ltd.

(21) The number of hairiness of the spun yarn: using the F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Textile Co., Ltd., the number of hairiness with a length of 1 mm or more per 10 m of yarn length was obtained.

(22) Pilling resistance of gray cloth: Measured according to JIS L 1076 A method (ICI type testing machine, 5 hours).

(23) Hand evaluation of gray fabric: Judging and evaluating the softness and bulkiness by touching the silk sheet by 5 persons.

⊚: Soft and excellent bulkiness, ◯: Softness and bulkiness are generally good, ×: Hard without bulkiness, unfavorable.

(24) In the column of comprehensive evaluation, ◎ means very good, ○ means almost good, and × means poor.

(Example 18)

Copolyester (intrinsic viscosity: 0.623) with polyethylene terephthalate as the basic skeleton and 10 mol% of the acid component being isophthalic acid was heated at a polymer temperature of 282°C and Spinning was performed at a spinning speed of 1100 m/min (containing 0.35% by mass of titanium oxide). Thereafter, in the stretching step, stretching was carried out under the conditions of a stretching temperature of room temperature, a stretch ratio of 3.75, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The boiling water shrinkage rate of the high-shrinkage fiber (denier 1.6dtex, cut-off length 38mm) of the obtained solid circle section is 24.8%, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.09cN/dtex (148 ℃).

On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.633) was spun at a polymer temperature of 288° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m/min using a normal fiber spinneret (containing titanium oxide 0.35% by mass). Thereafter, in the stretching process, stretching was carried out under conditions of a stretching temperature of 112° C., a stretching ratio of 2.34, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The boiling water shrinkage of the obtained low-shrinkage fiber (denier: 1.6 dtex, cut length: 38 mm) with a solid circular cross-section was 1.2%.

After carding and blending the high-shrinkage fibers of the obtained solid circle cross-section and the low-shrinkage fibers of the solid circle cross-section, the sliver grain is set to 300, The draw ratio was set to 180 times, and spinning was performed under the conditions of nozzle pressure 0.45 MPa and spinning speed 400 m/min to obtain wrapped spun yarns with an English cotton count of 30. The mixing rate of the high-shrinkage fiber in the spun yarn was 20%, and the mixing rate of the low-shrinkage fiber was 80%. The number of hairiness (K) of the spun yarn was 292, the number of cross-sectional fibers (A) was 123, and K/A was 2.37.

Using the obtained spun yarn, a knitted fabric having a plain stitch of 28 gauge and a pile length of 325 mm per 100 wales was obtained. This knitted fabric is carried out open-width, after carrying out 10 minutes of relaxing heat-shrinking treatment at 80 ℃ with liquid flow dyeing machine and scouring agent, be warming up to 110 ℃, carry out 10 minutes of heat-shrinking treatment. After that, it was dehydrated and dried, and the intermediate setting was performed at 170° C. for 40 seconds with a りり towel. Afterwards, dye with 0.8% omf disperse fluorescent dye at 130°C for 20 minutes with a high-pressure liquid flow dyeing machine, reduce and wash, and after dehydration and drying, use a りり towel for final setting at 160°C for 60 seconds.

Table 6 shows the evaluation results of the gray cloth obtained. The pilling resistance of the gray cloth is 4-5, and the hand feeling is generally good.

(Example 19)

The same copolyester (intrinsic viscosity: 0.625) as in Example 18 was spun at a polymer temperature of 282°C and a spinning speed of 1500 m/min using a spinneret for hollow section fibers (containing 0.35% by mass of titanium oxide) . Then, in the stretching step, stretching was carried out under the conditions of a stretching temperature of room temperature, a draw ratio of 2.68, and a draw speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The obtained high-shrinkage fiber with a hollow cross section (denier 2.2dtex, hollow ratio 20%, cut length 38mm) had a boiling water shrinkage rate of 39.1%, and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.18cN/dtex (105°C).

The high-shrinkage fiber in Example 18 is changed into the obtained hollow circular cross-section high-shrinkage fiber, and the low-shrinkage fiber is changed into rayon fiber (fineness 1.7dtex, cut length 38mm), except that it is obtained in the same way as in Example 18. Gray cloth, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(Example 20)

The high-shrinkage fiber in embodiment 18 becomes the same hollow circular section high-shrinkage fiber as embodiment 19, and the solid circular section low-shrinkage fiber of fineness 1.6dtex becomes the solid circular section low-shrinkage fiber of fineness 0.8dtex (boiling water Shrinkage rate: 1.2%), gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 18, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(Example 21)

In Example 20, the carded blending method of the cotton blending method was changed to a sliver blending method (a core-shell structure in which the fiber core is mostly distributed with high-shrinkage fibers, and the outer layer is mostly distributed with low-shrinkage fibers), and the Gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 20 except that the blending ratio of low-shrinkage fibers with solid circular cross-sections was changed from 80% to 70%, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(Example 22)

Using a spinneret for Y-shaped cross-section fibers, the same copolyester (intrinsic viscosity 0.625) as in Example 18 was spun under the conditions of a polymer temperature of 282° C. and a spinning speed of 1400 m/min (containing 0.35% by mass of titanium oxide). ). Thereafter, in the stretching step, stretching was carried out under the conditions of a stretching temperature of room temperature, a draw ratio of 2.32, and a draw speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The boiling water shrinkage of the obtained high-shrinkage fiber with Y-shaped cross section (fineness 1.6dtex, irregularity 2.2, cut length 38mm) was 36.4%, and the maximum thermal stress value was 0.17cN/dtex (109°C). In addition, the same polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.633) as in Example 18 was spun at a polymer temperature of 288° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m/min using a spinneret for fibers with a Y-shaped cross section. Silk (containing 0.35% by mass of titanium oxide). Thereafter, in the stretching process, stretching was carried out under conditions of a stretching temperature of 112° C., a stretching ratio of 2.34, and a stretching speed of 140 m/min. After imparting crimps, staple fibers were produced. The boiling water shrinkage of the obtained Y-shaped cross-sectional low-shrinkage fiber (denier: 1.1 dtex, degree of irregularity: 2.4, cut length: 38 mm) was 1.3%.

After the high-shrinkage fibers of the obtained Y-shaped section and the low-shrinkage fibers of the Y-shaped section are carded and blended, the sliver grain is set to 200, The draw ratio was 160 times, and spinning was performed under the conditions of nozzle pressure 0.45 MPa and spinning speed 400 m/min to obtain wrapped spun yarns with an English cotton count of 40 counts. The mixing rate of the high-shrinkage fiber in the spun yarn was 20%, and the mixing rate of the low-shrinkage fiber was 80%. The number of hairiness (K) of the spun yarn was 289, the number of cross-sectional fibers (A) was 126, and K/A was 2.31.

Using the obtained spun yarn, a knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 18, and then dyed to finish setting.

Table 6 shows the evaluation results of the gray cloth obtained. The pilling resistance of the gray cloth was grade 4, and the softness and bulkiness of the touch were excellent and judged to be very good.

(Example 23)

In Example 22, the carded blending method of the cotton blending method was changed to a sliver blending method (a core-shell structure in which high-shrinkage fibers are mostly distributed in the fiber core and low-shrinkage fibers are mostly distributed in the outer layer), and the Gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 22 except that the blending ratio of low-shrinkage fibers with solid circular cross-sections was changed from 80% to 70%, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(Comparative Example 18)

In Example 18, the high-shrinkage fiber with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 12.9% and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.05 cN/dtex (160° C.) is a high-shrinkage fiber with a solid circular cross-section, and the gray cloth is obtained in the same manner as in Example 18. , and then evaluate it. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(Comparative Example 19)

In embodiment 18, the high-shrinkage fiber with solid circular cross-section becomes the high-shrinkage fiber with hollow circular cross-section (denier 2.2dtex, hollow ratio 20%), and wrapping spun yarn is changed into ring-spun yarn (at draw ratio 36 times, spun yarn Under the condition of machine rotation speed 9000rpm, the coarse yarn of 140 grains was subjected to ring spinning), and gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 18, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(comparative example 20)

In Comparative Example 19, gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Comparative Example 19 except that the ring-spun yarns were changed to wrap-spun yarns, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

(comparative example 21)

In Comparative Example 19, gray fabrics were obtained in the same manner as in Example 18 except that low-shrinkage fibers with a solid circular cross-section having a fineness of 0.8 dtex were used alone, and then evaluated. The evaluation results are shown in Table 6.

Table 6 Raw cotton structure spun yarn Gray cloth (plain stitch) Overview high shrinkage fiber low shrinkage fiber Cotton blending method/spinning method English cotton count Cross-section fiber number A Measured number of hairiness K K/A feel Pilling level Denier dtex Section shape Boiling water shrinkage % Thermal stress cN/dtex Mixing rate% Denier dtex Section shape Mixing rate% Example 18 1.6 round 24.8 0.09 20 1.6 round 80 carding/wrapping 30 123 292 2.37 ○Soft and bulky 4-5 ○ Example 19 2.2 hollow 39.1 0.18 20 1.7 Rayon 80 carding/wrapping 30 110 268 2.44 ◎soft and bulky 4 ◎ Example 20 2.2 hollow 39.1 0.18 20 0.8 round 80 carding/wrapping 30 215 563 2.62 ◎soft and bulky 4 ◎ Example 21 2.2 hollow 39.1 0.18 30 0.8 round 70 Core shell sliver/wrap 30 199 537 2.70 ◎soft and bulky 4 ◎ Example 22 1.6 Y type 36.4 0.17 20 1.1 Y type 80 carding/wrapping 40 126 289 2.31 ◎soft and bulky 4 ◎ Example 23 1.6 Y type 36.4 0.17 30 1.1 Y type 70 Core shell sliver/wrap 40 122 291 2.39 ◎soft and bulky 4 ◎ Comparative Example 18 1.6 round 12.9 0.05 20 1.6 round 80 carding/wrapping 30 123 289 2.35 × hard, thin 5 x Comparative Example 19 2.2 hollow 39.1 0.18 20 1.6 round 80 Carded/Ring 30 116 1288 11.1 ◎soft and bulky 2 x Comparative Example 20 2.2 hollow 39.1 0.18 20 1.6 round 80 carding/wrapping 30 116 twenty one 0.18 × hard, thin 5 x Comparative Example 21 - - - - - 0.8 round 100 carding/wrapping 40 184 207 1.13 × hard, thin 5 x

As mentioned above, the spun yarns of Examples 18 to 23 all had a small number of hairiness, the pilling resistance of the gray fabric was 4 grades or higher, the hand feeling was soft and the bulkiness was excellent. In Example 18, the difference in shrinkage rate between fibers is less than that of other Examples, but the hand feeling is not bad. In Comparative Example 18, the thermal stress of the high-shrinkage fiber is weak, and the shrinkage is insufficient, and it has a property similar to that of conventional wrapped spun yarns. Hard feel. Comparative Example 19 had a soft and bulky texture, but had poor pilling resistance. On the other hand, the textures of Examples 19 to 22 were close to those of ring-spun yarns, and had cushioning and soft textures different from conventional wrapped spun yarns with a strong feeling of hardness. In particular, in Examples 5 and 6, this tendency was stronger due to the cross-sectional shape of the Y-shaped fiber, and in Example 23, a gray cloth with a strong bulky soft touch was produced.

The gray cloth of Comparative Example 20 had a large shrinkage and was a hard textured gray cloth with little bulkiness. The reason for this may be that the spun yarn has fewer hairiness and a higher degree of entanglement than the examples, so the shrinkage of the high-shrinkage fibers is hindered, stress relaxation occurs between the fibers, and a bulky feeling cannot be expressed. In Comparative Example 21, although ultrafine fibers were used, the texture of gray cloth was smooth and thin, which was completely different from the bulky and soft texture shown in Examples. By making blended yarns with high-shrinkage fibers as in the examples and limiting the hairiness of the spun yarns, gray fabrics with a soft feel similar to ring-spun yarns and pilling resistance can be obtained.

Industrial Utilization Possibility

According to the first aspect of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric containing polyester staple fibers at low cost, which has little transparency even if it is a thin self-grained fabric without using all matt fibers, and is ultraviolet-shielding. High rate, excellent water absorption and quick-drying and color rendering, and even without using modified polyester fibers, it also has excellent anti-pilling and soft hand feeling. Examples of suitable uses include shirts, blouses, knitted casual clothes, golf sweaters, knitted pullovers, jackets, shorts, skirts, swimwear, underwear, uniforms and other clothes and hats, umbrellas, headscarves, towels, bags, Curtains, pillowcases, cushion covers (side), sheets, quilt covers, diapers, etc.

According to the second invention, instead of using hygroscopic two-component composite spun fiber, single-component polyester fiber processed by graft polymerization is used, and it is made into air-jet entangled spun yarn, so the hygroscopicity is high, and it can improve the conventional The shortcomings of the graft polymerization processed fibers such as dimensional instability and slippery feeling when wet, and polyester staple fiber fabrics with excellent pilling resistance can be obtained at the same time. In addition, by using polyester fibers with a specific cross-sectional shape, the hardness of the air-entangled spun yarn can be improved, and a fabric with a soft touch can be obtained. As a result, sufficient hygroscopicity and Anti-pilling, soft polyester staple fiber fabric, the second invention can be widely used in towels, Interior, auxiliary materials, bedding, etc. of doilies, mats, sheets, etc.

According to the third invention, it is possible to provide a short-fiber fabric that uses wrapped spun yarns mainly composed of polyester-based staple fibers, and only needs simple treatment such as hot water treatment, and can not only obtain anti-aging Sphericality can also have soft bulkiness at the same time, and it has excellent stretchability. The present invention therefore does not require the Spandex Baileys yarn (bare silk) weaving device, which is indispensable for obtaining the stretchability and recovery of gray fabrics such as Baileys jersey. Therefore, it is possible to easily manufacture a fabric with anti-pilling and bulkiness, softness, and stretch recovery using conventional knitting machines. It is most suitable for sports underwear sweaters, sports outerwear sweaters, knitted casual clothes, knitted pullovers, jackets, shorts, skirts, uniforms, pads, towels, headscarves, abdominal girdles, socks, cushion covers, etc.

According to the fourth invention, it is possible to provide a short-fiber fabric, which is a short-fiber fabric mainly composed of polyester-based short fibers, and does not require the use of modified polyester fibers conventionally used to obtain pilling resistance. , Spinning and further dyeing processing rarely cause manufacturing failures, and anti-pilling properties can be obtained by simple treatment such as hot water treatment, and at the same time have soft and bulky properties. This short-fiber fabric uses wrapped spun yarn, However, it still has excellent bulkiness and a soft feel with good touch. It is most suitable for sports underwear sweaters, sports outerwear sweaters, knitted casual clothes, knitted pullovers, jackets, shorts, skirts, uniforms, pads, towels, headscarves, abdominal girdles, socks, cushion covers, etc.

Claims (21)

1. fabric that contains polyester fiber, it is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that titanium oxide content is lower than the polyester fiber of 1.0 quality %, and the anti-pilling in the JIS L 1076A of the Japanese Industrial Standards method is more than 3 grades, rate of ultraviolet shield is more than 84%, and visible light transmissivity is below 40%.

2. the described manufacture method that contains the fabric of polyester fiber of claim 1, it is characterized in that, this fabric uses the formation silk of air interlacing spun yarn as fabric, described air interlacing spun yarn contains titanium oxide content and is lower than 1.0 quality %, and be present in 3 above juts on the fibre circumference along fibre length direction continued presence, and the degree of profile of fibre section be circumscribed circle to the ratio of inscribed circle is that high degree of profile polyester fiber more than 1.8 or hollow rate are the hollow polyester fibre more than 8%, and length was to be lower than 350 more than 30 at the filoplume number more than the 1mm during every 10m yarn of this spun yarn was long, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.

3. a dacron fabric is characterized in that, this fabric constitutes by containing the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and the standard aqueous rate is more than 1.5%, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.

4. dacron fabric as claimed in claim 3 is characterized in that, according to the size changing rate that JIS L 1018 F-1 methods are measured, knitted fabric is-8%～0%, and textiles is in ± 3%.

5. the manufacture method of claim 3 or 4 described dacron fabrics, it is characterized in that, use following spun yarn to make fabric in this method, this spun yarn is to contain the air interlacing spun yarn that useful hydrophilic compounds has carried out the polyester staple fiber of glycerol polymerization processing, and during the every 10m yarn of this spun yarn is long, length is lower than 3mm more than 1mm filoplume number is 30～350, and the filoplume number of length more than 3mm is lower than 15.

6. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric in the claim 3～5 is characterized in that, uses the jet mixed filament of air interlacing polyester spun yarn or air interlacing spun yarn and multifilament to make fabric.

7. the manufacture method of each described dacron fabric in the claim 3～6, it is characterized in that, the fiber number of polyester staple fiber is at least more than the 1.3dtex, and is present in 3 above juts on the circumference of fibre section along fibre length direction continued presence, and its degree of profile is more than 1.8.

8. a flexible bulkiness spun fabric is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of the parallel type crimped staple of 1.0～6.0dtex constitutes by the fiber number that contains 10 quality % at least, and anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.

9. flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 8 is characterized in that, the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) that the air interlacing spun yarn contains at least 10 quality % is the low-shrinkage short fiber below 4%.

10. flexible as claimed in claim 8 or 9 bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, crimped staple or/and low-shrinkage short fiber be, hollow rate be more than 5% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.

11. the manufacture method of a flexible bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, use that to contain 10 quality % fiber numbers at least be that the air interlacing spun yarn that the parallel type of 0.8～4.0dtex the relation between the cross-section fibers radical (Y) of the filoplume number (X) of tendentiousness staple fibre and this spun yarn and this spun yarn of curling satisfies following (1) formula is made fabric, make this fabric carry out thermal contraction then

0.4Y≤X≤2.5Y (1) formula

X: the radical of the filoplume among every 10m more than the length 1mm

Y: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn

The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)

12. the manufacture method of flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 11 is characterized in that, the boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) of the tendentiousness staple fibre that curls is more than 20%.

13. the manufacture method of flexible bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 12, it is characterized in that, it is low-shrinkage short fiber 90～10 quality % below 4% that the air interlacing spun yarn contains boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) is curling tendentiousness staple fibre 10～90 quality % more than 20%.

14. manufacture method as each described flexible bulkiness spun fabric in the claim 11～13, it is characterized in that, curl the tendentiousness staple fibre or/and low-shrinkage short fiber is a hollow rate be more than 8% hollow section or the fibre section periphery on the degree of profile of an above jut is arranged is that the polyester of the odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 is a staple fibre.

15. bulkiness spun fabric, it is characterized in that, this fabric is that the air interlacing spun yarn of low-shrinkage short fiber below 4% and copolyester staple fibre constitutes by containing boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015), and be to contain the fabric that this air interlacing spun yarn of the copolyester staple fibre of 10～60 quality % forms through thermal contraction, anti-pilling is more than 3 grades.

16. bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 15, it is characterized in that, the copolyester staple fibre is, hollow rate be have on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery degree of profile of an above jut be more than 1.8 odd-shaped cross section and boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be the high shrinkage short fiber more than 20%.

17., it is characterized in that low-shrinkage short fiber is that the fibre section is shaped as hollow or degree of profile is the polyester staple fiber of the abnormity more than 1.8 as claim 15 or 16 described bulkiness spun fabrics.

18., it is characterized in that the 3rd composition of copolyester staple fibre is a M-phthalic acid as each described bulkiness spun fabric in the claim 15～17.

19. the manufacture method of a bulkiness spun fabric; It is characterized in that; Make fabric with following air interlacing spun yarn; Then make this fabric carry out thermal contraction; Wherein this air interlacing spun yarn is that to contain boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) be that low-shrinkage short fiber 90～40 quality %, boiling water shrinkage (according to JIS L 1015) below 4% is the air interlacing spun yarn of high shrinkage short fiber 10～60 quality % more than 20%; And the relation between the filoplume number (K) of this spun yarn and the cross-section fibers radical (A) of this spun yarn satisfies following (1) formula

0.4≤K≤3A (1) formula

K: length is the radical of the above filoplume of 1mm among every 10m

A: the cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn

The cross-section fibers radical of spun yarn: 5315 * 1.11/ (English cotton numbers * filamentary dtex)

20. the manufacture method of bulkiness spun fabric as claimed in claim 19, it is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is, has hollow rate and be the degree of profile that more than one jut is arranged on hollow section more than 8% or the fibre section periphery and be the copolyester staple fibre that odd-shaped cross section more than 1.8 and fiber number are 1.0～4.0dtex.

21. the manufacture method as claim 19 or 20 described bulkiness spun fabrics is characterized in that, high shrinkage short fiber is that the maximum thermal stress under 60～160 ℃ is the above copolyester staple fibre of 0.08cN/dtex.