CN1326520A - Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

A stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, which is a Raschel weave formed by interweaving polyethylene terephthalate fibers forming a ground structure and elastic fibers for insert weaving, wherein: the number of courses of stitches is 100-200 courses/2.54cm, and the product of courses/2.54cm and wales/2.54cm is 4000-8000. The stretchable raschel warp knitted fabric is non-yellowing, soft to the touch, and does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound, and is a fabric material suitable for use as an elastic clothing material with good thermoformability.

Description

Stretchable Raschel

technical field

The invention relates to a stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

technical background

Stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics with spandex and other elastic fibers are mostly interwoven with nylon fibers such as 4-course warp satin net, 6-course warp satin net, 10-course warp satin net, etc. Weave, elastic mesh warp knitted fabric, warp flat net, elastic fibers of 2 pieces of reed and combined weave of net, etc. These stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics are mainly used for underwear such as bras, bellybands, tights, shorts, underpants, elastic undershirts and other internal occasions. In addition, they are used for swimming suits, shoe covers, and gym suits in sports occasions. , Bicycle travel shorts, jackets, flat card clothings, etc. that have been glued, coated and laminated for external use.

In the elastic raschel warp knitted fabric using nylon fiber as the ground structure, there is still the problem of yellowing unique to nylon fiber due to the influence of heat setting during dyeing processing and NOX gas during product storage. . In the existing method of preventing yellowing, there are countermeasures such as low-temperature heat setting during dyeing processing and completely airtight packaging of the product so that the product does not turn yellow, but the decrease in washing shrinkage and the trouble before the product is shipped have become a big problem .

For this reason, a warp-knitted fabric interlaced with elastic fibers using polyethylene terephthalate fibers, which are less prone to yellowing, has been trial-produced. In this way, the problem of yellowing can indeed be eliminated, but the soft feel that is the characteristic of nylon tights is damaged, and it becomes a hard-feeling knitted fabric. For tights worn close to the skin, the feeling of contacting the skin is not good, basically no get used.

In addition, when the stretchy Raschel warp knitted fabric formed of polyethylene terephthalate inserted and woven with elastic fibers is made into bellybands or tights, etc., such as stretching when putting on and taking off Or repeated telescopic movement in the wearing process will easily cause slow rebound (the disadvantage that after the fabric is stretched, it cannot be restored to its original shape immediately even if it is removed). Especially for products using polyethylene terephthalate fiber, in order to make the hand feel soft, it must be woven under low tension, which is prone to the disadvantage of slow rebound. The stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric can only be used in strictly limited manufactured under the conditions.

disclosure of invention

The object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable Raschel warp-knitted fabric, which improves the shortcomings of the above-mentioned stretchable Raschel warp-knitted fabric in which elastic fibers are inserted and woven, and does not Will turn yellow, feel soft, without the disadvantage of slow rebound.

The stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention is constituted by interweaving polytrimethylene terephthalate (polytrimethylene terephthalate) fibers forming ground tissue and elastic fibers inserted into weaving; it is characterized in that: the number of courses is 100-200 courses/2.54cm, and the product of the number of courses/2.54cm and the number of wales/2.54cm is 4000-8000.

The ground tissue fibers used in the present invention are poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers, which are composed of polymers containing more than 50 mol% of propylene terephthalate units, containing more than 70 mol% Preferably, more than 80 mole % is more preferable, and it is more advantageous to contain more than 90 mole %. In addition, it includes a polymer fiber formed of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) containing the third component. Among them, as exemplified later The total amount of the third component in the polymer, other acid components and/or ethylene glycol components is about 50 mole % or less, preferably 30 mole % or less, more preferably 20 mole % or less, more advantageously 10 mole % or less .

In the present invention, the poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fiber can be directly connected to spinning- It can be formed by any method such as the direct drawing method (spinning drawing method) in the twisting process, or the high-speed spinning method (spinning tension method) with a take-up speed of 5000 m/min or more.

The form of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fiber can be long fiber or short fiber. Shaped, W-shaped, eight-lobed, flat, dog-bone and other polygonal, multi-lobed, hollow, and indeterminate. Examples of forms in which poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers are woven into Raschel fabrics include spinning such as ring spinning and open-end spinning, and multifilaments with a dtex per filament of about 0.1 to 5.6. Yarn (including ultra-fine yarn), weak twist yarn - strong twist yarn, mixed filament yarn, false twist yarn (including drawn false twist yarn of POY), air jet processed yarn, etc.

In addition, within the range that does not impair the purpose of the present invention, blending (Sirospan or Sirofil, etc.), interweaving mixed filaments (shrinkable mixed filaments different from high-shrinkage yarns, etc.), cross-twisting, composite false twisting (elongation) Differential false twisting, etc.), 2 supply air jet processing, etc. Fibers such as natural fibers represented by wool are mixed in the range of usually 30% by mass or less.

The elastic fibers used in the present invention are spandex fibers having rubber elasticity represented by polyurethane-based and polyether-ester-based elastic fibers, and the polymer and spinning method are not particularly limited. The elastic fiber is preferably an elastic fiber having an elongation of 100% to 1000% and which does not impair stretchability at a normal processing temperature of around 180° C. in the presetting step during dyeing. Suitable deniers for elastic fibers are 30-780 decitex. Corresponding to the knitting structure of knitted fabrics, choose to use denier. For example, 220-560dtex is used for warp satin net with 6 coil courses, 220-560dtex is used for elastic mesh warp knitted fabric, 78-56dtex is used for warp flat net weave, and the back side (1) 78 is used for 2 pieces of elastic reed -560, back (2) 30-78dtex.

The elastic fibers may be smooth polyurethane-based elastic fibers or the like, and may also be covered yarns, but smooth elastic fibers are preferred in order to improve the easiness of warping and the stretchability of the knitted fabric.

The knitting structure of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention can include warp satin nets such as 4 course warp satin nets, 6 course warp satin nets, and 10 course warp satin nets (some occasions are called warp satin weaves). ), elastic mesh warp knitted fabric, warp flat mesh, 2 pieces of reed elastic fiber and net combination organization, etc. The satin weave is lustrous and elastic, and has high versatility, so it is beneficial to the application.

The elastic fibers are preferably substantially inserted into the weave. The loop configuration of the knitted fabric can be any combination of open loops and closed loops.

Including knitted fabrics obtained by weaving polypropylene terephthalate fibers for ground texture with two reeds and knitted fabrics obtained by weaving elastic fibers with two reeds, and are not limited to any kind of knitted fabrics .

A preferred example of the warp satin weave is the 6-course warp satin net represented by the above exemplified weave. The polypropylene terephthalate fiber is passed through the front reed of the satin weave, and the elastic fiber is passed through the back reed. Depending on the situation, the positional relationship between the texture formed by the front reed and the texture formed by the back reed may be shifted (see Example 2 below).

(Example 1 of 6-course warp satin weave)

Front: 22/02/20/24/42/24 (all in)

Back: 00/44/22/66/22/44 (all in)

(Example 2 of 6-course warp satin weave)

Front: 20/02/20/24/42/24 (all in)

Back: 22/44/00/44/22/66 (full entry)

(Example of stretch mesh warp knitted fabric)

Front 1: 20/24/42/46/42/24 (1 in 1 out)

Front 2: 46/42/24/20/24/42 (1 in 1 out)

Back 1: 22/00 (1 in 1 out)

Back 2: 00/22 (1 in 1 out)

(Example of flatnet organization)

Front 1: 46/44/20/22 (full entry)

Front 2: 22/24/22/20 (full entry)

Back: 22/44/22/00 (full entry)

(Example of combination structure of elastic fiber and net of 2 reeds)

Front: 24/42/46/42/24/20 (all in)

Back 1: 00/22 (full entry)

Back 2: 44/66/00/22/00/66 (full entry)

In the present invention, in order to make the Raschel warp knitted fabric in the finished (including dyeing) state have a soft hand regardless of its knitting structure, and become a knitted fabric that does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound during use, the focus is on the finished product. The number of courses of the knitted fabric is 100-200 courses/2.54cm, preferably 120-170 courses/2.54cm, and the product of the number of courses/2.54cm and the number of wales/2.54cm is 4000-8000 .

Even if the knitted fabric of the present invention uses poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers with a soft feel as the ground structure, when the density of the knitted fabric is increased, the feel becomes hard, and the material has unique elongation, so the weight per unit area and Increased thickness. If the density of the knitted fabric is reduced, it becomes a light and thin knitted fabric with a soft feel, but the smaller the density, the lower the binding force of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber to the elastic fiber, and the rebound produced by the knitted fabric The disadvantage of bullet delay becomes obvious. Setting the number of courses of the knitted fabric within the above-mentioned range, and setting the product of the number of courses and the number of wales within the above-mentioned range is the way to obtain a stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric that does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound. indispensable condition.

When the density in the warp direction is less than 100 courses/2.54 cm, the surface quality (mesh surface) of the Raschel warp knitted fabric becomes poor, and the bursting strength of the warp knitted fabric decreases greatly. When the density in the warp direction is greater than 200 courses/2.54cm, although there is no problem with the mesh surface and bursting strength, the mesh becomes too large, the knitted fabric becomes thicker, and the handle becomes hard.

In the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the density in the warp direction is very important, and at the same time, the density of the warp knitted fabric is also very important. The product of the number of courses/2.54cm and the number of wales/2.54cm (hereinafter Bulk density), that is, the knitted fabric density is very important when it is 4000-8000, it is better when it is 4500-7000, and it is more favorable when it is 5000-6500. If the knitting density is less than 4000, the density of the warp knitted fabric as a hand feeling is too small, the surface quality is deteriorated, and the dislocation of the structure is prone to occur, resulting in the disadvantage of slow rebound and extremely small bursting strength. On the other hand, when the density of the knitted fabric exceeds 8000, the bursting strength is sufficiently high, and there is no disadvantage of slow rebound, but the handle becomes hard, for example, the knitted fabric is not suitable for tight underwear.

Therefore, it is necessary to set the fabric properties in consideration of the shrinkage of the knitted fabric, etc. so that the product of the number of courses and the number of wales of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric satisfies the above-mentioned predetermined condition.

The type and size of the Raschel warp knitting machine are not particularly limited for the weaving of stretchable Raschel warp knitting fabrics, but it is best to have a machine size of 48-64 pieces/5.08cm, that is, 24-32 pieces/2.54cm. Raschel machine for weaving.

In the method of fabric design as in the present invention, it is necessary to make the length of the loop (lanna) of the yarn for knitting more than that of nylon fiber or polyethylene terephthalate and elastic fiber. The number of coil courses on the machine is small. The scouring is applied to the woven stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, and when the tenter is stretched in the presetting process after scouring, the tension setting is carried out so that it is within the density range of the present invention, and the polyethylene terephthalic acid must be set. The stitch length and the number of courses on the machine of the propylene ester fiber and elastic fiber are adjusted and set to a density that is approximately the same as the width and length of the knitted fabric after dyeing to obtain a specified knitting density. The setting conditions can use the known range of 150-200°C and 30-60 seconds, but it is best to set at about 190°C when presetting, and at about 170°C when finishing and setting. In this way, the setting is good and the dyeing fastness is no problem. For the dyeing of knitted fabrics, it is preferable to use a liquid flow dyeing machine that has a large rubbing effect on stretchable raschel warp knitted fabrics.

Next, the knitted fabric of the present invention woven with 6 courses through a satin net will be described as an example. First, set the number of courses on the machine to a small number, preferably 65-85 courses/2.54cm, and weave the gray fabric under appropriate weaving tension. In more detail, the length of the stitches of the front yarn 1250-1350mm/lack (1 gram is the length required for every 480 coil courses) is combined with the coil length of the back yarn 120-165mm/lack, and the product of the coil length of the front yarn and the coil length of the back yarn It is within the range of 150,000 to 215,000, and when knitting under such conditions, it is easy to increase the density of the courses or the density of the knitted fabric. When the coil length product of front yarn and back yarn is less than 150,000, it is easy to increase the course density or knitted fabric density, and finally the handle of the gray fabric becomes hard, and the elongation of the finished knitted fabric decreases. In addition, when the product is 215,000 or more, the knitting tension becomes too low, the weave dislocation becomes large in the gray cloth stage, and the springback delay of the finished gray cloth occurs, so that a good gray cloth cannot be obtained. In the case of dyeing and finishing the gray fabric, the tenter density of the presetting process after scouring is expressed as a bulk density, for example, set to 3500-6000, and presetting is performed under this setting, and the set volume of the finishing and setting after dyeing is The density can be adjusted to the required length (the state of maintaining the number of courses after dyeing) and the desired width (the state of maintaining the number of wales after dyeing). By designing such a knitted fabric, it is possible to obtain a warp-knitted fabric that is free from shrinkage such as washing shrinkage and ironing shrinkage. As the setting condition, it can be in the temperature range of 150-200°C, preferably about 190°C when presetting, and about 170°C when finishing and setting. Under such conditions, setting is good, and it can be obtained in fast dyeing. The warp knitted fabric that does not have any problem in terms of degree of thickness.

By combining terephthalic acid or its functional derivatives and propylene glycol or its functional derivatives in the state where the catalyst exists and under appropriate reaction conditions, the polymer used to constitute the stretchable Raschel knitted fabric of the present invention Synthesized from poly(trimethylene terephthalate) of trimethylene phthalate fibers. In this synthesis process, it is also possible to add one or more appropriate third components to obtain a copolymerized polyester, or to separately manufacture polyethylene terephthalate and other polytrimethylene terephthalate After polyester, nylon, and poly(trimethylene terephthalate) other than polyester, nylon, and poly(trimethylene terephthalate), fibers obtained by mixing or composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) are also included in poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fibers.

As the third component added to the polymerization of poly(trimethylene terephthalate), aliphatic dihydroxy acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dihydroxy acids (cyclohexane Dihydroxy acids, etc.), aromatic dihydroxy acids (isophthalic acid, SojimussuruhoySoftal acid, etc.), aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol alcohols, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanedimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethoxy)benzene, etc.), polyether glycols ( polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic hydroxycarbonic acid (ω-hydroxycaproic acid, etc.), aromatic hydroxycarbonic acid (P-hydroxybenzoic acid, etc.), and the like. In addition, the polymer may contain a compound (benzoic acid, etc., glycerin, etc.) having one or three or more ester-forming functional groups within a substantially linear range. During spinning, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxyphenol derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, slippery agents such as aerosol, and hindering agents can also be added to polypropylene terephthalate. Antioxidants such as phenol derivatives, flame retardants, electrolytic agents, pigments, fluorescent whitening agents, infrared absorbers, defoamers.

Best form for carrying out the invention

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically based on examples and the like, but the present invention is not limited by the examples and the like.

The production of poly(trimethylene terephthalate fiber), the fineness measurement method of elastic fiber, and the evaluation method of the usability of Raschel warp knitted fabric in the examples are as follows.

(1) Preparation using polypropylene terephthalate fiber

Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) having ηsp/c=0.8 was spun at a spinning temperature of 265°C and a spinning speed of 1200 m/min to obtain an undrawn yarn. Next, twist under the conditions of hot roll temperature 60°C, hot plate temperature 140°C, draw ratio 3 times, and draw speed 800m/min to obtain stretched yarns such as 40dtex/24f, 56dtex/36f, 84dtex/48f, etc. For example, the strength, elongation, initial tensile strength (Young's modulus), and elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of 56dtex/36f stretched yarn are 2.8cN/dtex, 46%, 27cN/dtex, and 98%.

When measuring the elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of the poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fiber, the fiber is installed in a tensile testing machine with a distance between chucks of 10 cm, and stretched at a tensile speed of 20 cm/min. To 10% elongation, leave for 1 minute. After that, make it shrink again at the same speed, draw the stress-strain curve, take the elongation when the stress is zero during the shrinkage process as the residual elongation (A), and calculate the elastic recovery rate according to the following formula.

Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation = (10-A)/10×100(%)

When measuring the viscosity ηsp/c of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) polymer, the polymer was dissolved in o-chlorophenol at a concentration of 1 g/dl at 90°C, and after that, the obtained solution was transferred to an Austrian Measured at 35°C in a Twald viscosity tube, and calculated by the following formula. (In the following formula, T is the falling time (seconds) of the sample solution, T0 is the falling time (seconds) of the solvent, and C is the solution concentration (g/dtex))

ηsp/c=(T/T ₀ -1)/C

(2) Determination of fineness of elastic fibers

In the present invention, the dtex of the elastic fiber is measured by the following method. In an atmosphere at 20° C. and a humidity of 65% RH, the elastic fibers were left to stand linearly without tension and without load. Thereafter, the elastic fibers were cut to a length of 1000 mm, and 10 of them were weighed together, converted into weight per 10000 m, and the value was defined as decitex.

(3) Performance evaluation method of stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric

[1] Evaluation of feel

It was performed according to JIS-L-1096 bending resistance (softness) test method A method (45 degree cantilever), but the size of the test piece was changed to 25 mm×150 mm.

The bending resistance is calculated from the formula (2). When the value is less than 125 mm, the hand feels soft and slippery. When the value is more than 125 mm, the hand feel is judged to be hard.

Bending resistance (mm) = moving length in the longitudinal surface direction + moving length in the longitudinal direction

＋Movement length in the horizontal direction＋Movement length in the horizontal direction (2)

[2] Evaluation of slow rebound

Cut into 2 pieces according to the length of radial direction 100mm×weaving direction 90mm of stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, and sew up its initial weaving position and final weaving position along weft direction with the double needle overlock seam of seam edge 7mm. The sewing machine thread at this time was elastic nylon 235dtex, the pitch was 13 stitches/2.54cm, and the needle was #11 (ball end), and a test piece was produced under these conditions. Then, the test piece was fully soaked in a 0.13% aqueous solution of a weakly alkaline synthetic detergent, and after that, the stitches were centered and fixed to a stretch fatigue tester (manufactured by Takemoto System Co., Ltd.) with a gap of 70 mm between chucks. Demache (デマッチャ) testing machine, with a speed of 200 revolutions per minute and a specified elongation (described later), performs reciprocating 10,000 times of up and down movement, repeated elongation and relaxation. Remove the test piece, observe the surface and Changes in the appearance of the outline, cut and dislocation of the elastic yarn, etc., were judged according to the following criteria.

The level 5 test piece has basically no change from before it was placed in the stretch fatigue testing machine.

The grade 4 test piece has a slight narrowing and a slightly thicker appearance.

Grade 3 test piece has a slight narrowing, and the appearance becomes slightly thicker.

Grade 2 test piece shrinks in width, thickens in appearance, and dislocation of tissues occurs.

Grade 1 test pieces have narrowed width, tissue dislocation, or broken elastic filaments, etc., and the appearance is seriously thickened, which is not suitable for commercial use.

When set to the stretch fatigue testing machine, the elongation of the test piece is set by the following method.

The stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric is cut into a size of 20mm in warp and 25.4mm in weft, and is tested by Tanxilun tensile testing machine under the conditions of initial load of 4.9cN of test piece, chuck interval of 100mm, and elongation speed of 300mm/min. Make it stretch, obtain the elongation when the load is 9.8N and the elongation when the load is 14.7N, and determine the elongation according to formula (3).

Elongation (%)={(elongation at load 9.8N)+(elongation at load 14.7N)/2}                                                            

[3] turn yellow

According to JIS-L-0855 test method of color fastness to nitrogen oxide gas, weak test method.

[4] Determination of transverse elongation

The stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric is cut into a test piece with a warp of 25.4mm and a weft of 200mm, and the initial load of the test piece is 4.9cN, the chuck interval is 100mm, and the elongation speed is 300mm/min by Tanxilun tensile testing machine. Under the conditions, it was stretched to a load of 14.7 N, and the elongation at this time was measured.

[5] Evaluation of thermoformability

Using a stretch forming machine (manufactured by Daido Corporation), a metal mold with a diameter of 60 mm and a height of 75 mm is pressed against the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, and the plastically deformed knitted fabric is evaluated according to the following criteria forming state. The test piece is 30cm×30cm in size, fixed in the machine, the heating temperature of the pushing metal mold is kept at 380°C, the forming depth is 20mm, and the processing time is 30 seconds.

○ With a print over 18cm, the hand feeling of the formed knitted fabric does not change.

× Has a print of less than 18cm, or changes in the handle of formed knitted fabrics.

(Example 1)

Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fiber 56dtex/36f is used for the front, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industry Co., Ltd., trade name Royka) is used at a draft ratio of 80%. 310dtex warped elastic fiber was used for the back side, and a 6-course warp satin net was woven under the following conditions.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (Kalumaya (カ一ルマィ

      ャ1) Made by the company, model: RSE4N, machine number 28

/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24

Back 00/44/22/66/22/44

Coil Length: Front 1270mm, Back 155mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 80 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric is scouring, and pre-setting is carried out at a setting temperature of about 190°C and a setting time of 45 seconds. The density during pre-setting is set to 150 courses/2.54cm×32 wales/2.54cm. Flow dyeing machine for dyeing. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

It can be seen from Table 1 that the finally obtained stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric has a net weight of 206g/m ² , a thickness of 0.53mm, no yellowing, soft hand feeling, and does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound, transverse elongation and thermoforming The property is also better than existing products, so it is judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corsets and the like.

(Example 2, 3)

Stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics were manufactured and evaluated by changing the density setting and final density when presetting the same fabric in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Example 4-7)

Stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics were produced by changing the stitch length conditions in Example 1, and various evaluations were performed. The results are shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Embodiment 8)

In Example 1, the polyurethane-based elastic fiber on the back side was changed to a cored wire (a cored wire obtained by once covering Loica 230dtex (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industries Co., Ltd.) to produce stretchability. Raschel warp knits and were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Example 9)

Polypropylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex/36f is used for the front, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd., trade name Loica) 310dtex is adjusted at a draft ratio of 80%. Post-warp elastane is used on the back side to weave a 6-course warp satin mesh.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 24/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24

Back 00/44/22/66/22/44

Coil Length: Front 1310mm, Back 125mm

Number of coil rows on the machine: 70 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under this knitting condition is scouring, presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190°C and a setting time of 45 seconds, and the density during presetting is set at 140 courses/2.54cm×30 wales/2.54 cm, dyed by liquid flow dyeing machine after presetting. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained elastic raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 185 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.50 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Example 10)

Polypropylene terephthalate fiber 40dtex/36f is used for the front, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industry Co., Ltd., trade name Loica) 310dtex is adjusted at a draft ratio of 80%. The finished elastic fiber was used for the back side, and a 6-course warp satin net was woven under the following conditions.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24

Back 00/44/22/66/22/44

Coil Length: Front 1270mm, Back 155mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 80 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under this knitting condition is scouring, presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190°C and a setting time of 45 seconds, and the density during presetting is set at 150 courses/2.54cm×30 wales/2.54 cm, dyed by liquid flow dyeing machine after presetting. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained elastic raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 191 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.48 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Example 11)

Polypropylene terephthalate fiber 84dtex/48f was used for the front, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd., trade name Loica) 310dtex was adjusted at a draft ratio of 80%. Post-warp elastane is used on the back side to weave a 6-course warp satin mesh.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24

      Back 00/44/22/66/22/44 coil length: 

          Back 155mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 80 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured, and presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190° C. and a setting time of 45 seconds. The density during presetting is set as 150 courses/2.54cm×30 wales/2.54cm, and after presetting, it is dyed by a liquid flow dyeing machine. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained elastic raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 232 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.54 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not turn yellow, feel soft, and will not produce the disadvantage of slow rebound. In addition, the transverse elongation and thermoformability are better than existing products. Therefore, it was judged to be the most suitable warp knitted fabric for corset use and the like.

(Example 12)

Polypropylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex/36f is used for the front 1 and the front 2, and a polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industry Co., Ltd., trade name Loica) with a draft ratio of 80% ) 310dtex warped elastic fibers are used for the back 1 and back 2, and the elastic mesh warp knitted fabric is woven.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 1: 20/24/42/46/42/24 (1 in 1 out)

     Front 2: 46/42/24/20/24/42 (1 in 1 out)

    Back 1: 22/00 (1 in 1 out)

    Back 2: 00/22 (1 in 1 out)

Coil Length: Front 1, 2 950mm

    Back 1, 2 90mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 80 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under this knitting condition is scouring, presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190°C and a setting time of 45 seconds, and the density during presetting is set at 180 courses/2.54cm×30 wales/2.54 cm, dyed by liquid flow dyeing machine after presetting. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained stretchable raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 163 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.42 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not yellow, feel soft, and will not have the disadvantage of slow rebound, so it is judged to be the warp knitted fabric most suitable for tight underwear applications, etc. .

(Example 13)

Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) fiber 56dtex/36f is used for front 1, 40dtex/24f is used for front 2, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd., The warped elastic fiber is used on the back side of the warped 78dtex, and the warp flat net is woven.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 1: 46/44/20/22 (full entry)

    Front 2: 22/24/22/20 (full entry)

Back: 22/44/22/00 (full entry)

Coil Length: Front 1 850mm

         Front 2  380mm

                                             

Number of coil rows on the machine: 85 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured, and presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190° C. and a setting time of 45 seconds. The density during presetting is set as 156 courses/2.54cm×30 wales/2.54cm, and after presetting, it is dyed by a liquid flow dyeing machine. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained stretchable raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 161 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.44 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

It can be seen from Table 1 that if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it will not yellow, feel soft, and will not have the disadvantage of slow rebound. Therefore, it is judged to be most suitable for shorts, underpants, and flat card clothing. Warp knitted fabrics for internal use, etc.

(Example 14)

Polypropylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex/36f is used for the front, and polyurethane-based elastic fibers (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd., trade name Loica) are warped at a draft ratio of 80%. The final 155dtex and 44dtex are used for back 1 and back 2 respectively, and weave the combined organization of elastic fibers and nets of 2 reeds.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front: 24/42/46/42/24/20 (all in)

        Back 1: 00/22 (full entry)

Back 2: 44/66/00/22/00/66 (all in)

Coil Length: Front 1145mm

          Back 1 120mm

          2 180mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 80 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured, and presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190° C. and a setting time of 45 seconds. The density during presetting is set as 150 courses/2.54cm×40 wales/2.54cm, and dyeing is carried out by the liquid flow dyeing machine after presetting. Thereafter, finishing and setting are carried out with the desired length and desired width to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The obtained elastic raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 226 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.54 mm. Table 1 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric.

As can be seen from Table 1, if it is the stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it does not turn yellow, has a soft hand, and does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound. Warp-knitted fabrics such as sports and exterior uses.

(Comparative example 1-4)

Stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics were manufactured and evaluated by changing the density setting and final density when presetting the same fabric in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2.

As can be seen from Table 2, although the stretchable raschel warp knitted fabric for comparison does not turn yellow, the hand feeling and rebound delay are deteriorated, so it is judged as unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as corsets.

(comparative example 5)

Polyamide 6 fiber 56dtex/36f was used above, and other conditions were the same as in Example 1, and a stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric was produced and evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2. From Table 2, it can be seen that yellowing tends to occur, and the disadvantage of slow rebound occurs, so it is judged to be unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as corsets.

(compare 6)

Polyamide 6 fiber 56dtex/36f is used for the front surface, and polyurethane-based elastic fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Industry Co., Ltd., trade name Loica) 310dtex is warped at a draft ratio of 80%. On the back side, warp satin nets with 6 courses of different stitch lengths were woven under the following conditions.

Knitting machine: Single bar Raschel warp knitting machine (manufactured by Kalumaya Co., Ltd., type

No.: RSE4N, No. 28/2.54cm)

Organization: Front 20/02/20/24/42/24

Back 00/44/22/66/22/44

Coil Length: Front 1135mm Back 98mm

The number of coil rows on the machine: 91 rows of coils/2.54cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is scoured, and presetting is performed at a setting temperature of about 190° C. and a setting time of 45 seconds. The density during presetting is set as 174 courses/2.54cm×40 wales/2.54cm, and after presetting, it is dyed by a liquid flow dyeing machine. After that, finishing and setting are carried out at the same density as presetting to produce stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics comparable to existing products. The obtained elastic raschel warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 189 g/m ² and a thickness of 0.50 mm. Table 2 shows various evaluation results of the stretchable raschel knitted fabric. It can be seen from Table 2 that although the disadvantage of slow rebound does not occur, the hand feels a little harder and the yellowing property remains.

(comparative example 7)

Polyethylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex/36f was used for the front, and other conditions were the same as in Example 1 to manufacture a stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric. The evaluation results of this knitted fabric are shown in Table 2. From Table 2, it can be seen that the hand feeling is slightly soft, and it does not turn yellow, but has the disadvantage of slow rebound, so it is judged to be unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as internal use.

(comparative example 8)

Polyethylene terephthalate fiber 56dtex/36f was used for the front, and other conditions were the same as in Example 1 to manufacture a stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric. The evaluation results of this knitted fabric are shown in Table 2. From Table 2, it can be seen that although the springback delay defect or yellowing did not occur, the hand feeling became hard, so it was judged to be unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as internal use.

(Comparative Examples 9-13)

Change the coil length condition of embodiment 1, make stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, its evaluation result is shown in table 2, as can be seen from table 2, though not yellowing, hand feel worsens or produces the shortcoming of slow rebound, so , judged to be unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as internal use.

(Comparative Examples 14-18)

Change the density setting or loop length conditions during presetting in Example 12 to manufacture stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabrics. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2 and Table 3. As can be seen from Tables 2 and 3, although they do not change Yellow, but the texture deteriorated or the spring back was slow, so it was judged to be unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as internal use.

(Comparative Examples 19-23)

Change the coil length condition in embodiment 13, make stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, its evaluation result is shown in table 3, as can be seen from table 3, though not yellowing, hand feel worsens or produces the shortcoming of slow rebound, Therefore, it was judged that it was unsuitable for warp knitted fabrics such as inner use.

(Comparative Examples 24-28)

Change the coil length condition among the embodiment 14, make stretchable Raschel warp knitted fabric, its evaluation result is shown in table 3, as can be seen from table 3, though not yellowing, feel worsening or produce the shortcoming of slow rebound, Therefore, it was judged that it was not suitable for warp knitted fabrics such as inner use, sports use, and outer use.

Weaving condition, property and performance of table 1 embodiment knitted fabric coil length The number of coil courses on the machine/2.54cm Machine number root/2.54cm Quantity Hand feel bending resistance mm Slow rebound disadvantage (level) Turn yellow (level) Transverse elongation% Thermoformability Overview 1mm front front 2 1mm on the back back 2 Unit payment g/m ² Thickness mm Coil course/2.54cm Land density Example 1 1270 - 155 - 80 28 206 0.53 144 6048 102 5 5 129 ○ ○ 2 1270 - 155 - 80 28 198 0.52 123 5904 98 4 5 141 ○ ○ 3 1270 - 155 - 80 28 223 0.54 195 6435 120 5 5 120 ○ ○ 4 1220 - 135 - 80 28 202 0.52 144 4896 113 4 5 118 ○ ○ 5 1220 - 135 - 80 28 229 0.54 147 7791 122 5 5 140 ○ ○ 6 1320 - 160 - 80 28 187 0.50 102 4080 105 3 5 127 ○ ○ 7 1320 - 160 - 80 28 194 0.52 147 5439 110 4 5 125 ○ ○ 8 1270 - 155 - 80 28 231 0.54 147 6174 121 4 5 117 ○ ○ 9 1310 - 125 - 70 twenty four 185 0.50 120 45G0 101 3 5 126 ○ ○ 10 1270 - 155 - 80 28 191 0.48 165 6105 109 3 5 126 ○ ○ 11 1270 - 155 - 80 28 232 0.54 144 6048 113 4 5 128 ○ ○ 12 950 950 90 90 80 28 163 0.42 195 7800 121 5 5 102 - ○ 13 850 380 70 - 85 28 161 0.44 165 6600 120 4 5 51 - ○ 14 1145 - 120 180 80 28 226 0.54 156 7644 116 5 5 163 - ○

Weaving conditions, properties and performance of table 2 comparative example knitted fabrics coil length The number of coil courses on the machine/2.54cm Machine number root/2.54cm quality Hand feel bending resistance mm Slow rebound disadvantage (level) Turn yellow (level) Transverse elongation% Thermoformability Overview 1mm front front 2 1mm on the back back 2 Unit payment g/m ² Thickness mm Coil course/2.54cm Land density comparative example 1 1270 - 155 - 80 28 191 0.52 99 4455 116 2 5 133 - x 2 1270 - 155 - 80 28 229 0.54 207 7452 129 4 5 119 - x 3 1270 - 155 - 80 28 183 0.51 120 3960 101 1 5 111 - x 4 1270 - 155 - 80 28 244 0.54 180 8280 138 4 5 138 - x 5 1270 - 155 - 80 28 195 0.52 147 6174 108 1 2 101 x x 6 1135 - 98 - 91 28 189 0.50 174 7134 125 5 2 90 x x 7 1270 - 155 - 80 28 205 0.52 144 5904 114 1 5 103 x x 8 1135 - 98 - 91 28 216 0.51 174 7134 134 4 5 88 x x 9 1190 - 120 - 80 28 236 0.54 207 7245 129 4 5 113 - x 10 1190 - 120 - 80 28 241 0.53 150 8100 136 4 5 127 - x 11 1360 - 165 - 80 28 187 0.50 99 5445 117 2 5 142 - x 12 1360 - 165 - 80 28 179 0.50 120 3960 104 1 5 119 - x 13 1140 - 115 - 80 28 257 0.54 201 8040 132 5 5 112 - x 14 950 950 90 90 80 28 165 0.43 210 7350 129 4 5 87 - x 15 950 950 90 90 80 28 172 0.44 195 8775 139 3 5 107 - x 16 1150 1150 105 105 80 28 148 0.41 96 4320 111 1 5 123 - x

Weaving conditions, properties and performance of table 3 comparative example knitted fabrics coil length The number of coil courses on the machine/2.54cm Machine number root/2.54cm quality Hand feel bending resistance mm Slow rebound disadvantage (grade) Turn yellow (level) Transverse elongation% Thermoformability Overview 1mm front front 2 1mm on the back back 2 Unit payment g/m ² Thickness mm Coil course/2.54cm Land density comparative example 17 1150 1150 105 105 80 28 140 0.38 120 3840 104 1 5 84 - x 18 925 925 90 90 80 28 170 0.48 210 8400 134 5 5 93 - x 19 750 400 75 - 90 28 168 0.47 204 7752 126 3 5 55 - x 20 750 400 75 - 90 28 176 0.48 165 8250 133 3 5 66 - x twenty one 850 420 80 - 90 28 151 0.39 96 4320 101 1 5 61 - x twenty two 850 420 80 - 90 28 148 0.40 120 3840 102 1 5 41 - x twenty three 825 350 70 - 90 28 172 0.48 207 8280 131 3 5 82 - x twenty four 1145 - 120 160 80 28 230 0.56 204 7956 129 5 5 144 - x 25 1145 - 100 160 80 28 239 0.58 165 8415 137 5 5 164 - x 26 1200 - 100 200 80 28 192 0.47 96 4320 108 1 5 137 - x 27 1200 - 150 200 80 28 187 0.47 123 3813 102 1 5 98 - x 28 1145 - 150 160 80 28 246 0.61 204 9180 143 4 5 149 - x

Possibility of industrial use

The raschel warp knitted fabric of the invention does not change yellow, has soft hand feeling, does not have the disadvantage of slow rebound, and has a unique surface hand feeling that nylon fiber products do not have. The raschel warp knitted fabric of the present invention has good thermoformability, so it is a warp knitted fabric most suitable for inner uses such as corsets, sports uses such as swimwear, and outer uses.

Claims (3)

1. a stretchable raschel warp knit fabric constitutes by the polytrimethylene-terephthalate fiber who forms the ground tissue is interweaved with the elastomer that inserts braiding; It is characterized in that: the row number is 100-200 row/2.54cm, and the long-pending of row number/2.54cm and coil wale number/2.54cm is 4000-8000.

2. stretchable raschel warp knit fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein: La Sheer is organized as warp sateen reticular tissue.

3. stretchable raschel warp knit fabric as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein: elastomer is the polyurethanes system of light face.