CN1371271A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium agent; and (b) at least 5 %, by weight, of humectant. The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such as good moisturisation, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tack. In addition, such compositions are readily degraded once used and are consequently kinder to the environment.

Description

cosmetic composition

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that provide good moisturization, hydration, skin feel, skin softness and/or skin smoothness benefits.

Background of the Invention

The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and collagen fibers that form the structural backbone of the skin. The outermost of these layers is called the stratum corneum and is known to consist of 25nm protein bundles surrounded by an 8nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents generally penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and disrupt the integrity of the skin by degreasing (ie, removing lipids from the stratum corneum). This disruption of the topographical structure of the skin surface results in roughness, which ultimately leads to irritation by the interaction of surfactants and solvents with keratin. Many people's skin is exposed to this damage every day. Moreover, the skin can also be damaged by other factors such as exposure to cold air or wind, mechanical friction, immersion in water, and the like. Therefore, there is a need for a way to ameliorate or alleviate this damage.

In the past, compositions have been formulated that claim to help the stratum corneum maintain its barrier and water-retaining functions at optimum performance, regardless of the deleterious interactions that the skin may encounter during washing, work and play. Desirable properties for such compositions are that they have good skin feel, water retention, moisturisation, absorbency and/or rub-in characteristics. Compositions of the prior art attempt to bring about these properties through the use of one or more "skin benefit agents". For example, one method of imparting high moisturization to the skin is to include in the composition a polyol humectant material such as glycerin. However, skin compositions high in polyol content and thus highly moisturizing are often perceived by consumers as being sticky when applied to the skin.

There appears to be a direct relationship between the amount of skin care benefit ingredient used and the efficacy of the composition to provide the benefit to the skin. In fact, however, the higher the content of skin beneficial ingredients, the higher the risk of adverse effects associated with them. Thus, heretofore, there has been a need to balance the benefits conferred by compositions high in skin benefit ingredients with the adverse effects associated with such high levels. Therefore, there is a need for compositions that are high in skin benefit ingredients and thus provide associated benefits such as skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness, but exhibit associated adverse effects such as low greasy, sticky or sticky properties .

Quaternary ammonium agents are also known for use in cosmetic compositions. See eg WO-A-99/27904, WO-A-96/32089 and EP-A-789,076. Furthermore, US-A-5,804,205 discloses skin care compositions which are said to provide a high degree of moisturization without leaving a "sticky" or "sticky" residue. These compositions contain a quaternary ammonium compound (having two alkyl groups of 16-22 carbon atoms), a humectant and non-irritating hydrophobic microspheres with an average particle size below 50 μm. The hydrophobic polymeric microspheres are said to significantly reduce the "stickiness" associated with high humectant levels. However, the quaternary ammonium ingredients conventionally used in the prior art are generally not readily biodegradable and are therefore harmful to the environment.

It has now been surprisingly found that compositions comprising at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient and at least 5% by weight of a humectant bring benefits associated therewith such as high skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness, but show Associated adverse effects such as low greasiness, stickiness or stickiness.

While not wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium ingredients of the present invention vesicle the humectants and promote their deposition on the skin. This allows smooth and even application of the moisturizer to the skin with minimal stickiness/stickiness/greasyness. Even when the composition contains extremely high percentages of humectant, for example 30% by weight of humectant, there is still only a low general adverse effect. Furthermore, it is believed that quaternary ammonium ingredients help reduce loss of emollients from the skin due to environmental factors such as water or friction. Also, it is believed that the quaternary ammonium ingredients themselves bring skin care benefits, such as good moisturizing effect, good skin feel, and good skin softness.

Invention overview

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient; and

(b) at least 5% by weight humectant.

The composition of the present invention brings good skin care benefits, such as good skin moisturization, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, while unfavorable effects such as Low greasy, sticky or tacky feel. Furthermore, once used, such compositions are prone to degradation and are thus more environmentally friendly.

Detailed description of the invention

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient and a humectant. These ingredients will be described in detail below.

The compositions of the invention can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the compositions of the invention are suitable for topical application to the skin. Specifically, these skin care compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oily phases in a continuous aqueous phase, each oily phase containing a single oily component or oily components in miscible or homogeneous form. Mixtures, but the different oil phases contain different materials from each other or a combination of these different materials.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise vesicles. Preferably the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium compound and a humectant. The term "vesicle" as used herein refers to one or more bilayers arranged in a closed, generally spherical shape, said bilayers comprising the quaternary ammonium component described below.

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a viscosity of at least about 1,000 mPa.s, preferably from about 1,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 2,500 to about 250,000 mPa.s, especially from about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s (26.8°C, net phase, product of Brookfield DV-II+spindle CP52/CP41). Quaternary Ammonium Ingredients

The compositions of the present invention must contain at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient. Any readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used herein. The term "quaternary ammonium component" as used herein refers to a compound or mixture of compounds having a quaternary nitrogen atom which is substituted with one or more, preferably two, moieties containing 6 or more carbon atoms. The term "readily biodegradable" used in the present invention means that at least 60% of the compound is mineralized within 28 days according to the OECD 301 test. Preferred quaternary ammonium components for use in the present invention are selected from those having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted by two moieties each containing 10 or more, preferably 12 or more carbon atoms. Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium components for use in the present invention are selected from those capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents, which can be detected by microscopic analysis (polarized light microscopy using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope at a magnification of ×60) .

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least 0.01%, more preferably at least 0.1%, still more preferably at least 1%, even more preferably at least 3% by weight of a quaternary ammonium component.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium ingredients used in the present invention are selected from:

(a) quaternary ammonium compounds shown in general formula (I) or (II):

wherein each R unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or linear C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, branched _or linear C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and Hydroxyethyl; each R ₆ unit is independently linear or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, linear or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₂ alkenyl and mixtures thereof; X ^- is compatible with skin Anion compatible with care active ingredients and adjuvant ingredients; m is 1-4, preferably 2; n is 1-4, preferably 2, and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from:

wherein R ₇ is hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the above examples of quaternary ammonium compounds, the unit -QR ₆ contains a fatty acyl unit typically derived from a triglyceride source. The source of triglycerides is preferably derived from tallow, partially hydrogenated tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and/or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil, rice bran oil, etc., and mixtures of these oils.

The counter ion ^X in the above compound can be any compatible anion, preferably an anion of a strong acid, such as chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, sulfate, nitrate, etc., more preferably chlorine ion or methylsulfate. The anion may also, but less preferably, be double charged, in which case X ⁻ represents a half group.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are diester and/or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds, the diesters and diamides having the general formula (II), wherein the carbonyl Q is selected from:

Tallow, canola oil, and palm oil are convenient and economical sources of fatty acyl units suitable for use as _R units in the present invention.

The counterion X ^- can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion ^X- exists only as a counterion to the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. It is not considered within the scope of the present invention to be limited to any particular anion.

In the present invention, when diesters are specified, the monoesters and triesters normally present brought about by the preparation process will be included.

(b) quaternary ammonium compounds shown in general formula (III) or (IV):

Wherein R ₉ is an acyclic aliphatic C ₁₅ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon group, and R ₁₀ is a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or alkylene group.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa value not exceeding about 4 can generate a positive charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, provided that the pH of the final composition does not exceed about 6.

(c) quaternary ammonium compounds shown in general formula (V) or (VI):

wherein R ₉ and R ₁₀ are as defined above, and R ₁₁ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and hydroxyalkyl.

The counterion X ^- can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion ^X- exists only as a counterion to the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. It is not considered within the scope of the present invention to be limited to any particular anion.

(d) quaternary ammonium compounds shown in general formula (VII) or (VIII):

Wherein, n is 1-6, R ₉ is selected from acyclic aliphatic C ₁₅ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and R ₁₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.

These ammonium compounds having a pKa value not exceeding about 4 can generate cationic charges in situ when dispersed in an aqueous solution, provided that the pH of the final composition does not exceed about 6.

The counterion X ^- can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate, sulfate, nitrate and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion ^X- exists only as a counterion to the positively charged quaternary ammonium compound. It is not intended that the scope of the invention be limited to any particular anion.

(e) quaternary ammonium compounds shown in general formula (IX) or (X):

wherein R ₅ , R ₆ , Q, n and X ^- are as defined in the above general formulas (I) and (II), and R ₁₃ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene, preferably ethylene.

(f) Mixtures of the above quaternary ammonium compounds.

Preferred quaternary ammonium ingredients for use in the present invention are those described in section (b) above. Specifically, diester and/or diamide quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds represented by the general formula (II) above are preferred. Preferred diesters for use in the present invention are those in compounds of general formula (II) in which R ₅ , R ₆ and X ^- are as defined above and Q is of the following formula:

Preferred diamides for use in the present invention are those in compounds of general formula (II) in which R ₅ , R ₆ and X ^- are as defined above and Q is of the following formula:

Examples of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are: N,N-di(lowerucanoyl-oxy-ethyl)-N,N-dimethylammonium chloride, N , N-di(canolanoyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate, N,N-di(canolanoyl- Oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred for use in the present invention is N,N-bis(lowerucinoyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate.

Although quaternary ammonium compounds derived from "canolyl" fatty acyl groups are preferred, examples of other suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are those derived from "canolyl" in the above examples are replaced by Fatty acyl groups: "tallowoyl, cocoyl, palmityl (palmyl), lauroyl, oleoyl, ricinoleoyl, stearoyl, palmityl" substitutions, these correspond to the fatty acyl units derived from Source of triglycerides. These alternative fatty acyl sources may contain fully saturated, or preferably at least partially unsaturated chains. moisturizer

A second essential element of the compositions of the present invention is that they contain at least 5% by weight of humectant. The term "humectant" used in the present invention refers to a substance that provides the skin with the benefit of retaining water. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least 7.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight , still more preferably at least 15% by weight, still more preferably at least 30% by weight of humectant.

Any humectant suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used in the present invention. Non-limiting examples of suitable humectants for use in the present invention are disclosed in WO 98/22085, WO 98/18444 and WO 97/01326. Moisturizers preferred for use in the present invention are selected from, but not limited to, amino acids and their derivatives such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butanediol, propylene glycol and water and sea pine ( codium tomentosum) extract, collagen amino acid or peptide, creatinine, diglycerin, biopolysaccharide gum-1 (biosaccharide gum-1), glucosamine salt, glucuronate, glutamic acid salt, polyethylene glycol of glycerol Glycol ethers (e.g. glycerol ethoxylate 20), glycerin, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene glycol, honey, and its extracts or derivatives, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides, inositol , keratin amino acids, urea, LAREX A-200 (from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG-10, methylgluceth-10 and -20 (both available from Amerchol in Edison, NJ), Methylglucose, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetylglucosamine salt, polyethylene glycol and its derivatives (such as PEG 15 butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythritol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythritol, 1,2-pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and its salts such as glyceryl PCA, sugar isomers, SEACARE (from Secma), sericin, silk amino acid, sodium acetyl hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyaspartate, sodium polyglutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbitol Alcohol ethoxylates 6, sugars and sugar alcohols and their derivatives such as glucose, mannose and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerin, trimethylolpropane, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts, yeast extract substances, and their mixtures.

More preferably, the humectant used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the humectant used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerin. optional ingredients

The compositions of the present invention may contain various optional ingredients suitable to impart more pleasant cosmetic or aesthetic properties to the compositions of the present invention, or to impart additional use benefits to the compositions. These common optional ingredients are well known to those of ordinary skill in the art. These include various ingredients used in cosmetics as described in (CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th Edition, edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington , D.C., 1997)). Some non-limiting examples of these optional ingredients are listed below. Emollients

A particularly preferred optional ingredient in the compositions of the present invention is an emollient. Emollients are used to lubricate the skin, improve the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent and relieve dryness of the skin, and/or protect the skin. A variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used in the present invention. Cosmetics, Science and Technology by Sagarin, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of materials suitable for use as emollients. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise greater than 1% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, even more preferably at least 10% by weight of emollient.

Preferred emollients for use herein are selected from:

i) straight or branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and their derivatives, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isohexadecane and C ₇ -C ₄₀ isoparaffins (for C ₇ -C ₄₀ branched chain hydrocarbons).

ii) C ₁ -C ₃₀ alcohol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₃₀ dicarboxylic acids, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, hard Isopropyl fatty acid, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl dilinoleate.

iii) Mono-, diglycerides and triglycerides of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and their ethoxylated derivatives. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include: PEG-20 Almond Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-11 Avocado Glycerides, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Glyceryl Caprate, PEG-20 Corn Glycerides, PEG-60 Corn Glycerides, PEG-60 Evening Primrose Oil Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-78 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dioleate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-75 Cocoa Butter Glycerides, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, PEG-13 Mink Glycerides, PEG -75 salicylate, PEG 10 olive oil glycerides, PEG-12 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate ester. Mixtures of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides are also useful in the present invention.

iv) Alkylene glycol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, such as ethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, and propylene glycol monoesters and diesters, such as ethylene glycol distearate alcohol esters.

v) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil can be a volatile, nonvolatile or a mixture of volatile and nonvolatile silicones. As used herein, the term "nonvolatile" refers to those polysiloxanes which are liquids at ambient conditions and have a flash point (at 1 atmosphere) of greater than or equal to about 100°C. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxane oils can be selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a wide range in volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable polysiloxanes are disclosed in US Patent 5,069,897 (issued December 3, 1991). Preferred organopolysiloxanes for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted polydimethylsiloxanes, dimethiconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and its mixture. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are polydimethylsiloxanes.

vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable and hydrogenated vegetable oils include: safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil , sunflower oil, partially hydrogenated and fully hydrogenated forms of oils from the above sources, and mixtures thereof.

vii) Animal fats such as cod liver oil, lanolin and its derivatives such as acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.

viii) Also C ₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol, C ₁ -C ₂₀ carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycol and di-C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers can be used, examples include PPG-14 butyl ether , PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof.

ix) Polyol carboxylic acid esters.

x) Mixtures of the above ingredients.

Emollients preferably used in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and its derivatives, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and its derivatives, Safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More preferred emollients for use herein are selected from polyol carboxylic acid esters, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acids and sugars, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraester of soy fatty acid (unsaturated), mannose tetraester of mixed soy fatty acid, galactose tetraester of oleic acid, arabic acid tetraester of linoleic acid Sugar tetraester, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitan tetraoleate, sorbitan hexaester of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acid, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate esters, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitan hexaester, in which the carboxylate moieties are palm oleate and arachidic in a molar ratio of 1:2; octaester of raffinose, in which the carboxylate moieties are Linoleate and behenate in a ratio of 1:3; heptaester of maltose, wherein the carboxylic acid moiety for esterification is sunflower oil fatty acid and tetracosanoate in a molar ratio of 3:4; sucrose octaesters in which the carboxylic acid moieties for esterification are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and octaesters of sucrose in which the carboxylic acid moieties for esterification are in a molar ratio of 1:3: 4 laurate, linoleate and behenate. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester, wherein the degree of esterification is 7-8, and wherein the fatty acid moieties are C ₁₈ mono- and/or di-unsaturated acids and behenic acid, wherein the unsaturated acids and eicosanoids The molar ratio of dioxoic acid is 1:7-3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose having about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Others include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid sucrose esters. These esters are also disclosed in U.S. Patent 2,831,854; U.S. Patent 4,005,196 (Jandacek, authorized on January 25, 1977); April 26, 1994); U.S. Patent 5,306,515 (Letton et al., April 26, 1994); U.S. Patent 5,305,514 (Letton et al., April 26, 1994); U.S. Patent 4,797,300 (Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989); US Patent 3,963,699 (Rizzi et al., issued June 15, 1976); US Patent 4,518,772 (Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985); and US Patent 4,517,360 (Volpenhein, Authorized on 21 May 1985).

Polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the present invention can be prepared by various methods known in the art. These methods include the transesterification of polyols with methyl, ethyl or glyceryl fatty acid esters using various catalysts; the acylation of polyols with fatty acid chlorides; the acylation of polyols with fatty acid anhydrides; and the known The acylation of polyols with fatty acids. See, for example, US Patent 2,831,854; US Patent 4,005,196 (Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977).

A particularly preferred material is that which has the INCI designation polysucrose cottonseedoleate. Other Skin Benefits

Other skin benefit ingredients may be employed in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of other skin benefit ingredients that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include:

(a) vitamin compounds

Vitamin compounds, their precursors and their derivatives may be included in the compositions of the present invention. These vitamin compounds can be in natural or synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include vitamin A (e.g., beta-carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, etc.), Vitamin B (for example, niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, etc.), vitamin C (for example, ascorbic acid, etc.), vitamin D (for example, ergosterol, ergocalciferol, cholecalciferol, etc.), vitamin E (for example, , tocopheryl acetate, etc.) and vitamin K (eg, phytonadione, menadione, tuberculone naphthoquinone, etc.) compounds. A preferred vitamin compound for use in the compositions of the present invention is a vitamin _B3 compound. Vitamin _B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin condition and are disclosed in WO-A-97/39733. If vitamin compounds are used, they preferably comprise from about 0.01% by weight to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% by weight to about 10% by weight, still more preferably about 0.5% by weight (weight) to about 5% (weight) vitamin _B3 compound.

The term "vitamin _B3 compound" as used in the present invention refers to a compound having the following formula:

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (ie nicotinamide), -COOH (ie nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (ie nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of the above compounds.

Examples of derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin _B3 compounds include: nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilatory esters of nicotinic acid; nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide, and nicotinamide N-oxide things.

Examples of suitable vitamin _B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedical Company (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

The vitamin compound may be added in substantially pure form, or in the form of an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from a natural source, such as a plant.

(b) Anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy active ingredients

Examples of anti-winkle and anti-skinatrophy active ingredients that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to: lactic acid and its derivatives; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. cis and trans); retinol; retinyl esters; nicotinamide; salicylic acid and its derivatives; sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, especially N-acetyl derivatives, where Preferred examples are N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols, e.g., ethanethiol; hydroxy acids; phytic acid; lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peel agents (eg, phenols, etc.).

(c) Antimicrobial and antifungal active ingredients

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal active ingredients that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include: beta-lactams, quinolones, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, butylamine Kanamycin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichloro-N-carbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol , phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, formazan Nitazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lincomycin, methacycline, urotropine, minocycline, neomycin, naphthalene Tilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, erythromycin zinc, odorless erythromycin, erythromycin stearate, amisulfate Cathin, doxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, aureomycin hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, formazan hydrochloride Nitazole, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamycin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lincomycin hydrochloride (lineomycin), methacycline hydrochloride, urotropine hippurate, mendelidine, dimethyl hydrochloride Minocycline, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride (amanfadine hydrochloride), amantadine sulfate ( amanfadine sulfate), octopyrone, chloroxylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, and clotrimazole.

(d) Sunscreen Active Ingredients

Sunscreen actives may also be included in the compositions of the present invention. A variety of sunscreens can be used in the present invention. These sunscreens include organic compounds and their salts as well as inorganic particulate materials. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that sunscreens protect the skin from UV radiation by one or more of the following mechanisms, including absorbing, scattering and reflecting UV radiation. Non-limiting examples of these sunscreens are disclosed in: US Patent 5,087,445 (Haffey et al., issued February 11, 1992); US Patent 5,073,372 (Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991); US Patent 5,073,371 (Turner et al. et al., authorized on December 17, 1991); U.S. Patent 5,160,731 (Sabatelli et al., authorized on November 3, 1992); U.S. Patent 5,138,089 (Sabatelli, authorized on August 11, 1992); August 20, 1991); U.S. Patent 4,999,186 (Sabatelli et al., March 12, 1991); U.S. Patent 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, June 26, 1990); and Segarin et al. Technology" (Cosmetics Science and Technology, Chapter VIII, page 189 below). Among them, the preferred sunscreen is selected from: 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, octocrylene, hydroxymethoxybenzophenone, N,N-dimethyl 2-ethylhexyl aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomenthyl salicylate, diethanolamine p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'- Methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 4-N,N- Esters of dimethylaminobenzoic acid and 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, esters of 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid and 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, Esters of 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid and 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid and 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane Esters of 4-N,N-bis(2-ethylhexyl)-aminobenzoic acid and 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-bis(2-ethylhexyl)aminobenzene Esters of formic acid and 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, esters of 4-N,N-bis(2-ethylhexyl)aminobenzoic acid and 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane , 4-N,N-bis(2-ethylhexyl)aminobenzoic acid and 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane ester, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl) Esters of methylaminobenzoic acid and 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid and 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy ) Esters of benzophenone, esters of 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid and 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl) Esters of methylaminobenzoic acid and 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

More preferred sunscreens for use in the compositions of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of: N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl, p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl, cyandiphenyl Octyl acrylate, octyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, hydroxymethoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, p-methoxycinnamic acid di Ethanolamine, 4,4'-methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor , esters of 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid and 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

The exact amount of sunscreen that can be applied varies depending on the sunscreen chosen and the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value to be achieved. SPF is commonly used to measure the photoprotective effect of a sunscreen against skin erythema. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978. thickener

The compositions of the invention preferably contain a thickener. Various thickeners suitable for use in cosmetic compositions can be used in the present invention. Preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water soluble polymers, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include such water-soluble polymers as cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydrophobically Modified hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose), poly(oxyethylene), polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropyl guar gum, amylose (amulose), hydroxyethyl linear Starch (amylose), starch and starch derivatives. Suitable fatty alcohols are relatively high molecular weight, non-volatile primary alcohols having the general formula:

RCH ₂ OH

Wherein R is C _8-20 alkyl. They can be obtained from natural oils or fats by reducing the -COOH carboxyl groups of fatty acids to hydroxyl functional groups. Alternatively, fatty alcohols of the same or similar structure can be prepared by conventional methods known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols include: docosanol, C ₉ -C ₁₁ alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohols, C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alcohols, C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alcohols, octanol, Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol, Coco Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Isocetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Lauryl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, Palm Kernel Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Tallow Alcohol, Tridecyl Alcohol or myristyl alcohol, but not limited to these. polar solvent

Polar solvents may also be included in the compositions of the present invention. Any polar solvent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used in the present invention. However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to promote the formation of vesicles in the present invention. A preferred polar solvent for use in the compositions of the present invention is water.

The composition of the present invention preferably contains 10%-90%, more preferably 20%-80%, even more preferably 30%-60% by weight of polar solvent. other optional ingredients

Various other optional ingredients can be included in the compositions of the present invention. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. Non-limiting examples of ingredients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention, classified by function, include: abrasives, absorbents, anti-acne actives, anti-caking agents, anti-dandruff agents, antiperspirants, antioxidants, Antiviral active ingredients, artificial tanning agents and accelerators, biological additives, bleaching agents, bleach activators, brighteners, boosters, buffers, chelating agents, chemical additives, coloring agents, cosmetic ingredients, cleaning agents, cosmetics Astringents, fungicides for cosmetics, modifiers, deodorants, peeling active ingredients, depilatory agents, medicinal astringents, dyes, transfection agents, enzymes, topical analgesics, foaming agents, flavoring agents, Film formers, fragrance components, insect repellants, antifungal agents, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory active ingredients, sunscreens, oxidation dyes, oxidizing agents, insecticidal ingredients, pH regulators such as citric acid, pH buffers, pharmaceutical active ingredients , plasticizers, preservatives, free radical scavengers, skin or hair or nail bleaching agents, skin or hair or nail conditioners, skin or hair or nail penetration enhancers, stabilizers, surfactants, surface conditioners, reducing additives, temperature depressants, viscosity regulators and warming agents such as heating zeolites. Also useful in the present invention are aesthetic components such as: colorants, essential oils, skin healing agents. Other optional materials suitable for use herein include: Pigments. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and/or inorganic components. Also included within the term pigments are low-pigmentation or low-gloss substances, such as matt finishes, and light-scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, iron oxides acyl glutamate, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, cochineal and mixtures thereof. Preparation method

Preferably the compositions of the present invention are prepared in such a way that the quaternary ammonium compound can form vesicles. Preferably, the vesicles also contain a humectant. Preferably, the vesicles also contain an emollient. To ensure optimum performance characteristics, it is preferred that the compositions of the present invention are prepared by the following steps:

(i) intermixing all or part of the quaternary ammonium ingredient with the humectant, water-soluble skin care active (if included), and preferably a polar solvent at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium ingredient;

(ii) optionally vigorously stirring the mixture;

(iii) In a separate vessel, an emulsion is prepared by mixing the oily phase containing the emollient, the associated thickener (where the thickener is oil-soluble) at a temperature above the melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound, case) mixed with the remaining quaternary ammonium ingredients. Prepare the aqueous phase separately. Water, associated thickeners (where said thickeners are water soluble) and other water soluble ingredients are heated to the same temperature as the oil phase.

(iv) The temperature of the oil phase and the water phase of the emulsion is roughly balanced, and then the water phase is combined with the oil phase under stirring conditions.

(v) When preparing the emulsion, the mixture prepared in step (i) is added to the above emulsion under stirring. Instructions

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used in a conventional manner for the care of the skin. An effective amount of the composition, usually from about 0.1 gram to about 50 grams, preferably from about 1 gram to about 20 grams, is applied to wet or dry, preferably wet, skin. Application of the composition generally involves rubbing the composition on the skin, usually with the hands and fingers. The composition is then left on the skin or, preferably, rinsed off the skin.

Therefore, a preferred method of caring for the skin comprises the following steps:

(a) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin,

(b) Rinse the skin.

A preferred aspect of the invention relates to the above method comprising applying the composition to dry skin prior to applying the composition to wet skin. Therefore, preferred methods include

(i) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to dry skin;

(ii) rinsing the skin under a shower;

(iii) reusing said composition; and

(iv) Rinse again.

Most damage to human skin results from repeated exposure of the skin to surfactant-containing compositions during cleansing. It has now been found that this damage can be alleviated by use of the compositions of the present invention. Another preferred method therefore includes:

(i) cleansing the skin with a surfactant-containing composition;

(ii) rinsing the skin;

(iii) applying the composition of the invention to wet skin;

(iv) Rinse the skin.

It has also now been found that the compositions of the present invention are particularly useful when incorporated as part of a regular cleaning routine. Another preferred method therefore includes:

(i) applying to the skin a composition comprising:

(a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound;

(b) humectants; and

(ii) rinsing the skin;

(iii) Repeat steps (i) and (ii) within 48 hours.

The compositions of the present invention may also be used to alleviate skin damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation, contact with water during swimming or similar aquatic sports, or contact with water while bathing.

Example

The following examples serve to further illustrate preferred embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given for the purpose of illustration only, rather than limitation of the invention, since various changes can be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. All ingredients are expressed in weight percent of active ingredient unless otherwise indicated. Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 %(weight) Quaternary ammonium ingredients (see notes) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 A glycerin 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - A Urea - - - - - - - twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two A Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - - 10 - 12 15 B Lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 5 - 15 - - - 10 10 - B Coronet lanolin ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B super sterol ester ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B Sefa Cotton Oleate twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - - twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - B Dimethicone 10 cSt - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 B Dimethicone 1000 centistokes - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.0 1.0 B Cyclomethicone - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 B Florasun PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - B Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Nicotinamide 5 5 3 - 5 5 5 3 5 - - 5 5 A panthenol 3 3 1 - 3 3 3 1 3 - - 3 3 A tocopheryl acetate 2 2 0.5 - 2 2 2 0.5 2 - - 2 2 B Retinyl Palmitate 0.1 - - - - - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - B Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 B Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 B citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 A salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - A Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquaternium-10 - - - 1.0 - - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 B Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - - 0.7 - - - - 0.8 - - - B spices 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E. cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C Docosanol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - - 0.5 0.25 C Natrosol 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 C Jaguar HP 105 ⁵ - 1.2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D. Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - D. Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1.2 - - - - - - - D. xanthan gum - - - - - - 2.0 - - - - - - D. Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - A water Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount A Example 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 twenty one twenty two twenty three twenty four 25 26 %(weight) Quaternary ammonium ingredients (see notes) 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 A glycerin 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - A Urea - - - - - - - twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two twenty two A Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - - 10 - 12 15 B lanolin - - - 7.5 5 - 15 - - - 10 10 - B Coronet lanolin ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B super sterol ester ¹ - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B Sefa Cotton Oleate twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - - twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - B Dimethicone 10 cSt - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 B Dimethicone 1000 centistokes - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.0 1.0 B Cyclomethicone - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 B Florasun PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - B Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Nicotinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 A panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 A tocopheryl acetate 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 B Retinyl Palmitate 0.1 - - - - - 0.05 - - - - - 0.15 B Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 B Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 B citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 A salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - A Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C Polyquaternium-10 - - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 B Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - B spices 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E. cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C Docosanol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25 C Natrosol 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 C Jaguar HP 105 ⁵ - 1.2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - D. Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - D. Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1.2 - - - - - - - D. xanthan gum - - - - - - 2.0 - - - - - - D. Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - A water Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount A Example 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 %(weight) Quaternary ammonium ingredients (see notes) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 A glycerin 15 16 twenty two 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 A Propylene Glycol - 16 - - - 5 12 - - - - - - - - A Butanediol - - 8 8 - 8 12 - - - - - - - - A Urea - - - 12 - 2 9 - - - - - - - - B Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 - 6 B Lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 7.5 - 15 - 3.5 - 3 - - - - B Coronet lanolin ¹ - - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - - 6 - B super sterol ester ¹ - - - - - - - - 3.5 - 6.5 - 3 6 3 B Isohexadecane - - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 B Isononyl isononanoate - - - - - - - - - 3 - 5 - - - B Sefa Cotton Oleate twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - - 13 - 8 - - 8 12 10 B Sefa behenate - - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 - - B Dimethicone 10 cSt - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 - - B Dimethicone 1000 centistokes - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.0 1.0 - - B Cyclomethicone - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 - - B Florasun PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 2.5 - B Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Nicotinamide 3 5 5 - - 5 5 5 3 3 - 5 5 5 3 A panthenol 1 3 3 - - 3 3 3 1 1 - 3 3 3 1 A tocopheryl acetate 0.5 2 2 - - 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 - 2 2 2 0.5 B Retinyl Palmitate - - - 0.1 - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - - - - B Parsol 1789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 0.1 1 - B Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.5 5 - B citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 - A salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - - 0.5 A Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 - - C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C Polyquaternium-10 - - - 1.0 - - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 1.0 - B Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - - 0.7 - - - - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 B spices 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E. cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - - 3.2 C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - - 2.6 C Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 - - C Docosanol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - - 0.2 C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - - 0.5 0.25 - 0.6 C Natroso1 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 - - C Jaguar HP 105 ⁵ - 1.2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - D. Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - - - D. Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1.2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - D. xanthan gum - - - - - - 3.0 - - - - - - - - D. Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 A water Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount A Example 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 %(weight) Quaternary ammonium ingredients (see note) 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 A glycerin 15 16 twenty two 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 A Propylene Glycol - 16 - - - 5 12 - - - - - - - - A Butanediol - - 8 8 - 8 12 - - - - - - - - A Urea - - - 12 - 2 9 - - - - - - - - B Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - 4 7.5 - 12 5 - 6 B Lanolin ¹ - - - 7.5 7.5 - 15 - 3.5 - 3 - - - - B Coronet lanolin ¹ - - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 - - 6 - B super sterol ester ¹ - - - - - - - - 3.5 - 6.5 - 3 6 3 B Isohexadecane - - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 B Isononyl isononanoate - - - - - - - - - 3 - 5 - - - B Sefa Cotton Oleate twenty one twenty one 12 12 - - - 13 - 8 - - 8 12 10 B Sefa behenate - - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 - - B Dimethicone 10 cSt - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 - - B Dimethicone 1000 centistokes - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.0 1.0 - - B Cyclomethicone - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.5 2.5 - - B Florasun PEG-10 ² - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 2.5 - B Methylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A Propylparaben 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 B Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A sodium benzoate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Nicotinamide 3 5 5 - - 5 5 5 3 3 - 5 5 5 3 A panthenol 1 3 3 - - 3 3 3 1 1 - 3 3 3 1 A tocopheryl acetate 0.5 2 2 - - 2 2 2 0.5 0.5 - 2 2 2 0.5 B Retinyl Palmitate - - - - - - - - 0.05 - - 0.1 - - - B Parsol l789 ³ - 1 - 1 0.5 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 0.1 1 - B Parsol MCX ³ - 5 - 5 2.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.5 5 - B citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.75 1 1 1 1 - A salicylic acid - 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - - 0.5 A Triethanolamine 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 - - C sodium hydroxide - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C Polyquaternium-10 - - - 1.0 - - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 1.0 - B Polymer KG 30 ⁴ - 0.7 - - 0.7 - - - - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 B spices 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E. cetyl alcohol 3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - - 3.2 C stearyl alcohol 2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - - 2.6 C Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohol - - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 - - C Docosanol 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - - 0.2 C Natrosol 330 Plus 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.6 C Natrosol 250 HHR - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 - - C Jaguar HP 105 ⁵ - 1.2 - - - - - - - - 0.8 - - - - D. Jaguar C14S ⁵ - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - - - D. Jaguar C13S ⁵ - - - - - 1.2 - - - - - - - 0.8 - D. xanthan gum - - - - - - 3.0 - - - - - - - - D. Sodium chloride - - 0.1 - - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 A water Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount A

1: Obtained from Croda

2: Obtained from Floratech, AZ, USA

3: Obtained from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA

4: Obtained from Amerchol, NJ, USA

5: Annotated from Rhodia, NJ, USA

●Examples 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25,

26, 27, 28, 31, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 41, 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55,

In 56, the quaternary ammonium compound is N, N-bis(lowerucicanoyl-oxygen-ethyl)-N-methyl,

N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate available from Goldschmidt under the trade name Rewoquat V3620

●In embodiment 11,25,29, what the quaternary ammonium compound adopts is N, N-bis(lowerucic acid brassinoyl-oxygen-

Ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate, purchased from Goldschmidt under the trade name

Rewoquat WE18

●In embodiment 12,30,32, what the quaternary ammonium compound adopts is N, N-bis(canolacoyl-oxygen-

Ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium chloride, available from Goldschmidt, development material (WE25)

●In Example 13,39,40,42, what the quaternary ammonium compound adopts is methyl bis(hydrogenated tallow amido

Ethyl)(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate available from Goldschmidt under the tradename Varisoft 110.

●In embodiment 14,43,44, what the quaternary ammonium compound adopts is methyl bis (tallow amido ethyl) (2-

Hydroxyethyl) ammonium methyl sulfate, purchased from Goldschmidt, trade name is Varisoft 222. The method is used for the embodiment comprising component C:

1. Premix 1: Mix the components of Group A above the selected quaternary ammonium conversion temperature, leaving the predetermined amount of quaternary ammonium compound and water unadded. The premix was mixed vigorously.

2. Premix 2: Combine the ingredients in Groups B and C with the remaining quaternary ammonium compound from Premix 1 above and water. Heat above the melting point of quaternary ammonium compounds and oils.

3. Mix premix 1 and 2, cool to 40°C, stir and add essence. Examples for comprising component D:

1. Premix 1: Mix the components of Group A above the selected quaternary ammonium conversion temperature, leaving a predetermined amount of water unadded. The premix was mixed vigorously.

2. Premix 2: Under agitation, combine the ingredients in Group D with the remaining water from Premix 1 above.

3. Combine the components of Premixes 1 and 2, and Groups B and E. Stir vigorously.

The compositions of the above examples provide good skin care benefits, such as good moisturization, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or good skin smoothness, while adverse effects such as Low greasiness, stickiness or stickiness.

Claims (10)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one readily biodegradable quaternary ammonium ingredient; and (b) at least 5% by weight humectant. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprises 0.01%, more preferably at least 1%, by weight of readily degradable quaternary ammonium constituents. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said composition comprises at least 7.5%, more preferably at least 10% by weight of humectant. 4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. 5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises vesicles, wherein the vesicles comprise a quaternary ammonium component and a humectant. 6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the quaternary ammonium component is selected from those capable of forming vesicles in polar solvents, as detected by microscopic analysis. 7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the quaternary ammonium component is selected from the group consisting of N,N-bis(lowerucanoyl-oxygen-ethyl)-N,N-dimethylammonium chloride, N , N-di(canolanoyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methylsulfate, N,N-di(canolanoyl- Oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. 8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said composition further comprises an emollient. 9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises less than 5%, preferably less than 3%, preferably 0% by weight of anionic surfactant. 10. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the care of the skin.