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CN107184428A - 一种具有速染效果的发油 - Google Patents

一种具有速染效果的发油 Download PDF

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CN107184428A
CN107184428A CN201710281559.XA CN201710281559A CN107184428A CN 107184428 A CN107184428 A CN 107184428A CN 201710281559 A CN201710281559 A CN 201710281559A CN 107184428 A CN107184428 A CN 107184428A
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oil
hair
oil composition
hair oil
agent
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谷志静
洪盛杰
李洪波
陈丽媛
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LAF INTERNATIONAL GROUP Ltd
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    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
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    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种发用彩妆,具体涉及一种一次性染色的护发油组合物。本发明组合物为速染效果的发油组合物,该组合物除含有头发护理基础油,还含有占组合物重量百分比为0.001%至10%的油溶性和油分散性着色剂,3.0%至15%的葡萄糖苷有机硅分散铺展剂,0.5%至10%疏水成膜剂。本发明利用油溶性颜料与头发的吸附着色作用,以疏水成膜剂固着修饰着色效果,提供一种快速、便捷、老少皆宜的临时染发发油。

Description

一种具有速染效果的发油
技术领域
本发明涉及一种日化用品,具体涉及一种具有染色效果的发油。
背景技术
绚丽多彩的头发,成为年轻人追求时尚、展示自我以及老年人挽留青春,表现活力的的形象特征之一。永久性染发除有损头发健康,易致过敏外,还可以招致一些难以治疗的疾病。长期使用苯胺类化学染发剂进行染发导致体内蓄积。当蓄积毒素超过1%时就会导致皮肤癌、淋巴癌、乳腺癌、膀肤癌、白血病等各种癌症的发生。因此消费者使用频次限制在1-2 次/年;且永久性染发过程繁琐,在专业美发场所才能进行。而正常头发每天要生长0.3-0.4mm,一个月即可以在发根处长出约1cm的原色新发,所以永久性染发产品不能满足多数追求时尚、维护形象消费者的需求。因此需要一种方便快捷且更安全可靠的临时性染发产品来满足更多消费者的爱美之心。
发油是国内外消费者较为喜爱的营养护发产品。基于以上市场现状,本发明意图以发油为基础开发发用彩妆,创造一种快速、便捷、老少皆宜的临时染发发油。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种能够迅速染发和护发作用的发油。
本发明的技术方案是这样实现的:该组合物除含有头发护理基础油,还含有占组合物重量百分比为0.01%至10%的油溶性或油分散性着色剂, 3.0%至15%的葡萄糖苷有机硅分散铺展剂,3.0%至10%疏水成膜剂包括:
所述油溶性或油分散性着色剂为氧化铝色淀、珠光云母粉系列着色剂、氧化铁系列着色剂和油溶性色素的任意组合;所述着色剂粒径为3-25微米;所述着色剂优选氧化铝色淀。
所述葡糖苷有机硅分散铺展剂为辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷乙氧基葡糖苷,其结构式为:
式中n=1-1000,m=1-200,o=1-4,x=1-2
所述疏水成膜剂为C12-C18烷基封端的疏水改性聚氨酯和单体碳链长度为5至22的聚丙烯酸烷基酯的任意组合。
所述疏水成膜剂为C12-C18烷基封端的疏水改性聚氨酯,其结构式如下:
R、R'=CH3-(CH2)11/13/15/17;X=0~5;R"=(CO)0~1-(CH2)0~17
所述聚丙烯酸烷基酯类疏水成膜剂其结构通式如下:
n=5~100;R=CH3或H;R'=CH3-(CH2)0~17
所述甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物类疏水成膜剂优选单体碳链小于10,分子量为10,000-100,000的甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物。
所述疏水成膜剂可选自聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、聚甲基丙烯酸乙酯、聚甲基丙烯酸丁酯、聚甲基丙烯酸异戊酯及聚甲基丙烯酸十二烷酯、甲基丙烯酸十六烷酯、聚甲基丙烯酸十八烷酯的任意组合,用量为占发油组合物重量的0.5%至5.0%。
所述基础油成份是由常温下为固态、分子量在500以上的蜡脂和常温下为液态的硅油、异构醇酯组成,其中,蜡脂选自于天然蜡脂小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、蜂蜡、羊毛脂蜡中至少一种,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比5.0%至10%;
所述硅油选自于替代环状挥发性硅油的低黏度改性硅油和非挥发性硅油,替代挥发性硅油的低黏度硅油室温条件下黏度为1CS至6CS,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比0.5%至10%;非挥发性硅油的黏度为室温条件下黏度为1000CS至10000CS硅油,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比2.0%至20%;所述低黏度改性硅油选自辛甲基聚硅氧烷、丙甲基硅氧烷,非挥发性硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、苯基聚甲基硅氧烷的任意组合。
所述异构醇酯为挥发性异构醇酯和非挥发性异构醇酯占整个发油重量比1.0%至10%。所述异构醇酯可以为非挥发性异壬酸异壬醇酯、异硬脂酸异辛酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异辛酯、豆蔻酸异丙酯的任意一种与挥发性新戊酸异癸酯1:1至1:5的组合物。
本发明所述的发油组合物,其中:
(ⅰ)常温下为固态的油脂优选小烛树蜡和巴西棕榈蜡的1:1组合物,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为2.0%至8.0%;
(ⅱ)低黏度硅油为辛甲基聚硅氧烷,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为 2.0%至5.0%;
(ⅲ)非挥发性硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷醇,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为5.0%至15%;
(ⅳ)非挥发性异构醇酯为异硬脂酸异丙酯,异构醇酯优选使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为3.0%至6.0%;
(ⅴ)疏水改性聚氨酯疏水成膜剂为十六烷基端基和异佛尔酮二氨基甲酸乙酯联接的聚氨酯,用量为占发油组合物重量3.0%-10%,其结构式如下:
式中R1为—(CH2)11—;R2为—(CH2)5—;R3为—(CH2)2—;n为 5-100的整数;
(ⅵ)丙烯酸酯均聚物类疏水成膜剂优选聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯,分子量为10,000-50,000,使用量为占整个组合物重量的1.5%至3.0%;
(ⅶ)悬浮铺展剂辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷乙氧基葡糖苷(n=200-500, m=50-100,o=2,x=2),用量为6.0%至10%;
(ⅷ)着色剂为氧化铝色淀,用量0.001%-0.01%;氧化铁着色剂,用量为0-8.0%。
本发明的有益效果:
本发明所述的发油利用水不溶性色粉着色剂对发丝表面的静电吸引或离子键合,完成驻留型产品的一次性染色过程。配方的设计充分利用睫毛油的染色、定型机理结合油脂调理剂的护发功效,提供一种方便快捷、安全、有效的美发彩妆产品。其中烷基糖苷有机硅表活将有机硅和葡糖苷结合,提高了皮肤兼容性和生物可降解性。烷基糖苷有机硅和异构醇酯在油基配方或w/o配方体系中能够显著提高色粉的分散性,防止其成团、沉淀,并且有效降低纯油体系的黏腻感,提供清爽感,以及持久的丝滑触感及光泽感。天然蜡质、疏水改性聚氨酯或甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物调节整个配方体系中的流变性,并提供发纤维表面成膜,适度造型和固着色粉的功能。挥发性硅油和挥发性异构醇酯能够提供不黏腻、不粘连的护发染色效果。
具体实施方式
下面对本发明的组分作进一步说明
本发明所述油溶性或油分散性着色剂包括有机氧化铝色淀,无机的氧化铁着色剂、珠光云母色粉及油溶性色素;也可以为多种着色剂的复配物。
所述油溶性铝色淀可以为有机颜料与功能颜料结合的颜料,如巴斯夫的Cellini系列颜料亮蓝铝色淀、诱惑红铝色淀、苋菜红铝色淀、柠檬黄铝色淀与云母、二氧化钛及油溶润湿剂氢化聚异丁烯、棕榈酸复配。
所述氧化铁系无机颜料为氧化铁红(CI77491)、氧化铁黄(CI77492)、氧化铁黑(CI77499)及氧化铁棕、紫、金、青铜等。市售商品可以为巴斯夫的Chronma-Lite系列。
所述珠光云母色粉可以天然云母为基材,也可以是云母、二氧化钛、氧化铁人工复合基材,粒径以3-15微米为佳。市售商品为巴斯夫的 Cloisonne Nuantique Colors系列和Cloisonne Salin Colors系列;默克公司的IriodinD10和Pryisma D10系列。
所述油溶性色素,色素索引号为45350.1(D&C黄7)、47000(D&C 黄11)、12700(分散黄16)、26100(D&C红17)、45380.2(D&C红21)、 45410.1(D&C红27)、61565(D&C绿6)。
所述辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷乙氧基葡糖苷分散铺展剂是一种非离子表面活性剂,HLB值为6-7;通过可再生的天然糖分物质合成,能够很好地进行生物降解。应用于彩妆产品中有助于提高色粉分散,防止色粉团聚和沉降,肤感滋润不粘腻,特别适合粘度较低的轻薄型彩妆产品市售商品以环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷为溶剂,如瓦克的SPG 128VP 和 WO 5000。
所述聚氨酯成膜剂具有杰出防水性,出色的抗迁移性,皮肤表面自然的感觉,不油腻的薄膜,硬度和灵活性的良好平衡,快速变干,耐磨,持久,易冲洗适用于任何化妆品配方的通用的成膜剂,与多种化妆品原料配伍,适用宽广的PH范围,不需中和,低粘度产品。市售商品为德国拜耳公司 C1004化学名称:聚氨酯-35。
所述聚甲基丙烯酸酯成膜剂是(甲基)丙烯酸、丙烯酸,其他含双键的单体进行乳液聚合或溶液聚合制得的均聚物或共聚物。低聚合度优选聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯,分子式为(C5O2H8)n,聚合度n为100至500,为白色颗粒状或白色浆液。市售商品如三丰公司PMMA-C80。
所述异构醇酯具有良好的色粉分散能力,并可作为疏水成膜剂的溶剂体系。其具体指标如下:
所述异构醇酯异硬脂酸异壬醇酯,INCI名称:Isononyl Isononanoate,分子式C18H36O2,俗称合成蚕丝油。它是一种肤感清爽和极度柔软的赋脂剂, 对硅油具有极其高的溶解性,在含硅油的配方中非常稳定,表现滋润无油腻感,可解决硅油低温析出的问题,是硅油类的稳定剂和偶联剂;对色料有很好的分散能力。粘度(25℃)6mPa〃s市售商品法国迪博NKSI-816。
所述异硬脂酸异硬脂醇酯是中等感觉的透气性赋脂剂,是霍霍巴油的代替品,它不但具有霍霍巴油的优点,还大大改善了氧化稳定性,是几乎无色无味的添加剂。异硬脂酸异丙酯是极其轻快的铺展性极佳的调理剂,用后能保持柔软的感觉,对常用有机防晒剂有很好的增溶效果。
所述异硬脂酸异丙酯,异十八烷酸1-甲基乙基酯;INCI名称Isopropylisostearate,分子式C21H42O2;密度:0.861g/cm3;沸点(760mmHg):368.2℃;闪点:179.3℃。其结构式如下:
所述新戊酸异癸酯,分子式C15H30O2;俗称天鹅绒酯,是挥发性硅油替代品,低粘轻质,提供良好的铺展性。能有效增溶有机防晒剂,具有良好的颜料分散性能力。与硅油有很好的相溶性,与二甲基硅油任意比例混溶。其理化性质折光率1.436;密度0.866g/cm3;沸点263.2℃(760mmHg);闪点117.1℃;新戊酸异癸酯。市售商品有法国迪博/DUBOIS。粘度低6mPa〃s/25℃,清爽,无油腻感。对硅油具有极其高的溶解性(胶状硅油也可溶),在含硅油的配方中非常稳定,表现滋润无油腻感。
所述基础油脂在配方中的配伍性与其极性相关,非极性油脂不适于本发明。所述基础油脂中天然蜡质具有调节配方黏度和增加头发光亮感的作用;还能提供抗氧化剂、维生素类生理活性成分,实现润发油的养护功效。硅油为发用调理剂,体现发油的护发功效,低粘度硅油辛甲基硅氧烷可改善各种配方的粘腻感,增加舒展性,提供柔软丝质的用后感,在彩妆产品中除提供丝质感外,还可大大改善无机颜料的分散性;苯硅油具有提升头发光亮度的作用;市售商品为香港新日化拓展的Silsfot 034。挥发性硅油和挥发性异构醇酯能够提供不黏腻、不粘连的护发染色效果。
本发明中速染发油实施例如下:
本发明中发油通过以下方法制备:
1、将A相蜡料混合后80-85℃熔融;
2、B相疏水成膜剂粉料200-300rpm搅拌下溶于异构醇酯;
3、A相、B相、C相混合,75℃下加入D相颜料,2000rpm均质20min,冷却。

Claims (10)

1.一种具有速染效果的发油组合物,该组合物除含有头发护理基础油,还含有占组合物重量百分比为0.01%至10%的油溶性和油分散性着色剂,占组合物重量百分比为3.0%至15%的葡萄糖苷有机硅分散铺展剂,占组合物重量百分比为0.5%至10%疏水成膜剂,且:
所述油溶性着色剂和油分散性着色剂为氧化铝色淀、珠光云母色粉、氧化铁系列着色剂及其他油溶性色素的任意组合,
所述葡糖苷有机硅分散铺展剂为辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷乙氧基葡糖苷,其结构式为:
式中n=1-1000,m=1-200,o=1-4,x=1-2
所述疏水成膜剂为C12-C18烷基封端的疏水改性聚氨酯和单体碳链长度为5至22的聚丙烯酸烷基酯的任意组合;
所述基础油成份是由常温下为固态、分子量在500以上的蜡脂和常温下为液态的硅油、异构醇酯组成,其中,蜡脂选自于天然蜡脂小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、蜂蜡、羊毛脂蜡中至少一种,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比5.0%至10%;
所述硅油选自于替代环状挥发性硅油的低黏度改性硅油和非挥发性硅油,替代挥发性硅油的低黏度硅油室温条件下黏度为1CS至6CS,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比0.5%至10%;非挥发性硅油的黏度为室温条件下黏度为1000CS至10000CS硅油,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比2.0%至20%;
所述异构醇酯为挥发性异构醇酯和非挥发性异构醇酯占整个发油重量比1.0%至10%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述着色剂粒径为3-25微米。
3.根据权利要求2所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述着色剂优选氧化铝色淀。
4.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述疏水成膜剂为C12-C18烷基封端的疏水改性聚氨酯,其结构式如下:
R、R'=CH3-(CH2)11/13/15/17;X=0~5;R"=(CO)0~1-(CH2)0~17
5.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述聚丙烯酸烷基酯类疏水成膜剂其结构通式如下:
n=5-100;R=CH3或H;R'=CH3-(CH2)0-17
6.根据权利要求5所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物类疏水成膜剂优选单体碳链小于10,分子量为10,000-100,000,的甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物。
7.根据权利要求6所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述疏水成膜剂可选自聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、聚甲基丙烯酸乙酯、聚甲基丙烯酸丁酯、聚甲基丙烯酸异戊酯及聚甲基丙烯酸十二烷酯、甲基丙烯酸十六烷酯、聚甲基丙烯酸十八烷酯的任意组合,用量为占发油组合物重量的0.5%至5.0%。
8.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述异构醇酯可以为非挥发性异壬酸异壬醇酯、异硬脂酸异辛酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异辛酯、豆蔻酸异丙酯的任意一种与挥发性新戊酸异癸酯1:1至1:5的组合物。
9.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其特征在于:所述低黏度改性硅油选自辛甲基聚硅氧烷、丙甲基硅氧烷,非挥发性硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、苯基聚甲基硅氧烷的任意组合。
10.根据权利要求1所述的发油组合物,其中:
(ⅰ)常温下为的固态蜡脂为小烛树蜡和巴西棕榈蜡的1:1组合物,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为2.0%至8.0%;
(ⅱ)低黏度硅油为辛甲基聚硅氧烷,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为2.0%至5.0%;
(ⅲ)非挥发性硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷醇,使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为5.0%至15%;
(ⅳ)非挥发性异构醇酯为异硬脂酸异丙酯,异构醇酯优选使用量占发油组合物重量百分比为3.0%至6.0%;
(ⅴ)疏水改性聚氨酯疏水成膜剂为十六烷基端基和异佛尔酮二氨基甲酸乙酯联接的聚氨酯,用量为占发油组合物重量3.0%-10%,其结构式如下:
式中R1为—(CH2)11—;R2为—(CH2)5—;R3为—(CH2)2—;n为5-100的整数;
(ⅵ)丙烯酸酯均聚物类疏水成膜剂优选聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯,分子量为10,000-50,000,使用量为占整个组合物重量的1.5%至3.0%;
(ⅶ)悬浮铺展剂辛基聚二甲基硅氧烷乙氧基葡糖苷(n=200-500,m=50-100,o=2,x=2),用量为6.0%至10%;
(ⅷ)着色剂为氧化铝色淀,用量为0.001%-0.01%,氧化铁着色剂用量0-8.0%。
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CN108056940A (zh) * 2017-12-21 2018-05-22 广州神采化妆品有限公司 一种发用补色组合物及其应用
WO2018133441A1 (zh) * 2017-01-22 2018-07-26 广州温雅日用化妆品有限公司 发色弹力素组合物及其制备方法和使用方法
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