MXPA98007233A - Compositions for the care of the p - Google Patents

Abstract

A skin care composition comprising: a silicone-containing phase comprising entangled polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil, wherein the composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer combination and silicone oil, from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of an organic amphiphilic liquid crystal forming surfactant, and water, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil in water emulsion, the compositions of the invention provide a sensation improved on the skin, reduced greasy / sticky character, and faster absorption

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN CARE TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions that provide improved benefits of wetting, skin feel, skin care and appearance, and reduced fatness, together with excellent rubbing and absorption characteristics. The compositions also exhibit excellent stability characteristics at normal and elevated temperatures.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is made up of several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous proteins of keratin and collagen that form the skeleton of its structure. It is known that the outer layer of the layers, called the stratum corneum, is composed of 25 nm protein bundles surrounded by layers of B nm thick. Typically, anionic surfactants and organic solvents penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and. by delipidization (that is, removal of lipids from the stratum corneum), they destroy its integrity. This destruction of the topography of the surface of the skin results in a harsh sensation, and finally it allows the surfactant or solvent to react with the keratin, causing irritation. It is now recognized that it is important to maintain the appropriate water gradient through the stratum corneum for its functional capacity. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered the plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from within the body. If the humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate, the water remaining in the outer layers of the stratum corneum is insufficient to properly plasticize the tissue and the skin begins to peel and become spicy. The permeability of the skin is also reduced a little when there is an inadequate amount of water in the stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to finally absorb 3 to 5 times its own weight of water attached. This swells and gathers the skin and results in an increase of approximately 2 to 3 times in the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules. In this way »there is a need for compositions that help the stratum corneum to maintain the optimal performance of its barrier and water retention functions» despite the harmful interactions that the skin may encounter in washing, work and recreation. It is known that conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions »such as those described for example» in Sagarin »Cosmetics Science and Technology» 2nd Edition »Vol. 1, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Ecyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition , Volume 7 »provide different degrees of emolliency, barrier and water retention (wetting) benefits. However, they also have serious disadvantages in terms of feeling on the skin (that is, they often feel very greasy on the skin), have poor rubbing and residue characteristics, and have slow absorption on the skin. In this way »the need persists for compositions that help the stratum corneum to maintain its water gradient» but with improved skin sensation »rubbing, residue characteristics» and skin absorption. Compounds that exhibit liquid crystalline properties for use in skin care compositions are known. Liquid crystals are a special phase of matter. The liquid crystal phase exists between the boundaries of the solid phase and the isotropic liquid phase (ie, an intermediate between the three-dimensional ordered crystalline state and the disordered dissolved state). In the liquid crystal state, some of the characteristics of the molecular order of the solid phase in the liquid state are retained, due to a molecular association structure and a powerful intermolecular order. The ability of certain compounds to form a liquid crystalline mesophase, has been observed only a few hundred years ago. Since then, many compounds that exhibit liquid crystalline properties have been synthesized, and have been used to encapsulate and act as a delivery vehicle for drugs, flavors, nutrients and other compounds, and for use in skin care compositions. Silicone-based materials such as for example silicone fluids and silicone gums for use in cosmetic compositions to provide benefits such as skin feel, and improved application and extension characteristics are also well known. However, there is still a need for improvements in the characteristics of skin sensation and absorption and reduction of the sticky / greasy character in the skin. It has now surprisingly been found that by incorporating a particular type of material capable of forming liquid crystals in an emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a silicone phase containing a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil, a composition is provided which improves hydration and the sensation in the skin, and that in particular provides faster absorption and at the same time reduces the sticky and greasy feeling on the skin.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the present invention, there is provided a skin care composition comprising: a) a silicone-containing phase comprising interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil, wherein the composition comprises from about 0.lt to about 20% by weight of the combination of said interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and said silicone oil »b) from about 0.15% to about 205% by weight of an amphiphilic liquid crystal forming surfactant; and O water "wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The compositions of the invention provide improved skin feel »reduced greasy / sticky character and faster absorption.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention take the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing one or more different emulsified oil phases, together with an essential liquid crystal forming surfactant component, as well as various optional ingredients as indicated below. The compositions of the present invention also essentially contain a silicone-containing phase comprising cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil. All levels and proportions are by weight of the total composition, unless expressly stated otherwise. The length of the chains and the degrees of determination are also specified on a basis of average weight. The term "skin conditioning agent", as used herein, means material that provides a "skin conditioning benefit". As used herein, the term "skin conditioning benefit" means any cosmetic skin conditioning benefit, including, but not limited to, "wetting" hydration (ie, the ability to retain or contain water or moisture in the skin). ) »Emolience. visual improvement of the surface of the skin »to the skin effect» softening of the skin »improvement of the sensation in the skin and the like. The term "complete melting point", as used herein, means a melting point measured by the well known differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique. The full melting point is the temperature at the intersection between the baseline, ie the specific heat line, and the tangent line of the exit edge of the endothermic peak. A scrutiny temperature of 5 ° C / minute is generally adequate in the present invention to measure the complete melting points "however" it should be recognized that the analytical chemist skilled in the art can judge appropriate more frequent scanning rates "in specific circumstances. A DSC technique for measuring complete melting points is also described in U.S. Patent No. 5,306,514 to Letton et al. Issued April 26, 1994, incorporated herein by reference. The term "non-occlusive" as used herein, means that the component described as such "substantially does not block the passage of air and moisture through the surface of the skin. A first essential component of the compositions herein is an oil or mixture of oils. In physical terms, the compositions generally take the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in a continuous aqueous phase. Each oil phase comprises a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form Different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials among themselves. The overall level of oil phase components in the compositions of the invention is preferably from about 0.1% to about 60% »preferably from about 0.1% to about 30%, and from about 1% to about 10% is most preferred in weight. The present compositions should contain, either as the entire oil phase or oil phases, or as a part thereof referred to above, a first phase containing silicone comprising an interlaced polyorganosyl? anum polymer and a silicone oil »wherein the composition comprises 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the combination of interlaced silicone and silicone oil. The first silicone-containing phase comprises from about 10% to about 40%, preferably from 20% to about 30%, by weight of the first silicone-containing phase, of the interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer "and from about 60% to about 90". %. preferably from about 70% to about 80% »by weight of the first silicone-containing phase» of the Sikon oil. The interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer comprises polyorganosiloxane polymer entangled by an entanglement agent. Interlacing agents for use herein include any interlacing agent useful for the preparation of entangled silicones. Suitable crosslinking agents herein include those represented by the following general formula: "i (R) 3 Si - or 4-SI -O i- Si (R) 3 in which R- is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl , where H is on the scale from about 1 to about 50% is on the scale from about 1 to about 10OO, preferably from about 1 to about 100, and R is an alkyl group having 1 to 50 carbon atoms Preferably, the crosslinking agent has the general formula: wherein R ^, Rβ and z are as defined above. In especially preferred embodiments, the entanglement agent has the following general formula: «1 (CH3) 3S¡ - O - Si - O - Si (CH3) 3 R2 wherein z is on the scale from about 1 to about 1000", preferably from about 1 to about 100. The crosslinked polysiloxane polymer comprises. preferably from about 10% to about 50%, preferably from about 20% to about 30%, by weight of the crosslinked polysiloxane polymer, of the crosslinking agent. Any polyorganosiloxane polymer suitable for use in skin care compositions can be used herein. Polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use herein include those represented by the following general formula: wherein Rx is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, Rg. is H or - (CHa) "CH = CHSB" where n is on the scale from about 1 to about 50 »R3 and R ^ are independently selected from methyl» ethyl »propyl and phenyl» R is an end block » such as an alkyl group optionally substituted with hydroxyl having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having 1 or 2 carbon atoms, p is whole in scale from about 1 to about 2000, preferably from about 1 to about 500, is an integer in the range from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 500. In preferred embodiments, the polyorganosiloxane is select from the polymers that have the following general structure: (CH3) 3Si - O - Si (CH3) 3 where Rx »^» R3 »^ p and q» are as defined above. As defined in the present »p and q reflect the number of Si-0 bonds in the polymer chain and R ^. and Rj. and Rß and - »may vary from one monomer unit to the next. For example, suitable polyorganosilicone polymers for use herein include methyl 1-ini Idimethicone, methylvinyldiphenyldimethicone and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyl dimethicone. To achieve entanglement between the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the entanglement agent, a group (-Si-H) must be entangled with a group -Si- (CHjg) ^ -C ^, so that for any specific entanglement, the group R ^ it must be different in the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the crosslinking agent. For example, for any specific entanglement, when R ^ is - (CHse) "CH = CH2t in the poly organosiloxane polymer, R2 must be H in the entanglement agent, and vice versa. However, there can be mixtures of R_j for each of the polyorganosiloxane polymer and the crosslinking agent. In preferred embodiments, the polyorganic polymer loxane is selected from an alkylarylpolysiloxane polymer having the general formula: CH3 C5H5 • CH3 (CH3J3S? - O - Si - O - Si - O I -! Si - O - S¡ (CH3) 3 CH, in which Rs is selected from -CH-sCHjj. or H, preferably -CH = CH.?. »and where 1 is an integer on the scale from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 500, m is an integer on the scale from 0 to about 1000, preferably from about 0 to about 500 »and n is an integer in the range from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to about 100. In particularly preferred embodiments, the polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from a polymer of Alkylpolysiloxane having the general formula: in which l, m and n are as defined above. In preferred embodiments, m is in the range of about 1 to about 100%, preferably from about 200 to about 800. The first silicone-containing phase also comprises a silicone oil. Any straight chain silicone can be used here, branched and cyclic, suitable for use in skin care compositions. Silicone oils can be volatile or non-volatile. Silicone oils suitable for use herein include silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from silicone oil having a weight average molecular weight in the range from about 100 to about 50,000, and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. In preferred embodiments, the silicone oil is selected from dimethicone, decamethyl cyclopentasi loxane, octa and cyclic tetrasiloxane and phenylmethyl, and mixtures thereof. preferably phenylmethicone.

Suitable materials for use in the first phase containing silicone »are available under the trademark KSQ supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co.» Ltd »for example KSQ-15» KSG-16, KSG-17 »KSG-18. These materials contain a combination of interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil. KSG-1B is particularly preferred for use herein, especially in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier material. The assigned names of INCI for KSG-15 »KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18» are: cyclomethicone-dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone interlaced polymer, di-ethicone-dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone interlaced polymer, cyclomethicone crosslinked polymer- di eticone / vinyl dii eticone and entangled polymer of feni Itrimethicone-dimethicone / phenylvinyl-dimethicone, respectively. The compositions herein preferably also comprise a second phase containing non-interlaced silicone. In preferred embodiments, the second phase containing silicone is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, especially from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the composition. Silicone fluids suitable for use in the second phase containing s licón of the present, include water-insoluble silicones, including non-volatile polyalkyl polyalkyl- and polyalkyl rubbers and fluids, volatile cyclic and linear polyalkyl-siloxanes, silicones. polyalkoxylates, silts modified with amino and quaternary ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In preferred embodiments, the second phase containing silicone comprises a silicone rubber or a mixture of silicones including silicone rubber. As used herein, the term "silicone gum" means high molecular weight silicone-based fluids having a mass average molecular weight of more than about 200,000, and preferably from about 200,000 to about 400,000. Silicone oils generally have a molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Typically, silicone rubbers have a viscosity at 25 ° C of more than about 1,000,000 mma.s. Silicone gums include dimethicones such as those described by Petrarch and others "including US-A-4,152,416, May 1, 1979 for Spi zer, and others, and Noli, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also described in General Electric documents are "General Electric S l cone Rubber Product Data Sheets" SE 30, SE 33 »SE 54 and SE 76. Silicone rubbers for use herein include any silicone rubber. suitable for use in a skin care composition. Silicone gums suitable for use herein are silicone gums having a molecular weight of about 2,000,000 to about 4,000,000, selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicon, and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. 1S The ethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein may have the chemical structure (II): H0 (CH3) is SiOC (CH3) S? S? O3"(CH3) 2SiOH wherein n is about 2000 to about 40,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 30,000. The exemplary fluorosi 1 ions useful herein may have a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 300,000, preferably from 240,000 to about 260,000 and most preferably from about ?, Ooo. Specific examples of silicone gum include polydi-ethylsiloxane, copolymer of idimet poly Isi loxane and methyl vinyl siloxane, copolymer of pol dimeti Isi loxane and diphenyl eti 1 vinyl siloxane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gum used herein may be incorporated into the composition as part of a mixture of solids. When the silicone rubber is incorporated as part of a silicone mixture, the silicone rubber preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to 20% by weight of the silicone blend. The silicone or silicone blend preferably constitutes from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and especially from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. The silicone rubber-based silicone blends, suitable for use in the second silicone-containing phase of the compositions of the present invention, include blends consisting essentially of: (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of about 2000, 000 to about 4,000,000, selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicon and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. (ii) a silicon based vehicle having a viscosity of about 0.65 mm ^ .s-3 to about 100 mm ^ .s-. wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80"and wherein said silicone-based component has a final viscosity of about 500 mm ^ .s - * - to about 10. »000 m ^ .s - * -. Suitable base metal vehicles for use herein include certain silicone fluids. The silicone fluid may be either a polyalkylene, a polyaluminium, a polyalkylene, or a polyester ether copolymer. Mixtures of these fluids can also be used, and are preferred in certain embodiments. The polyalkyl Isiloxane fluids that may be used include, for example, polystyrene Isi loxanes with viscosities ranging from about 0.65 to 600,000 mm., Preferably from about 0.65 to about 10, 000 m.sup.-s. - * at 25 ° C. These silo? Anos are available, for example, from General Electric Company as the Viscasil (MR) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-volatile polyalkaryl Isi lo? An fluids that can be used they include, for example, pol meti 1 pheni Isi loxanes, which have viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 m.sup.-5 * at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid, or from Dow Corning as the 556 Cosmetic Grade Fuid fluid. Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure that incorporates from about 3 to about 7 portions (CH 3) as SiO. Viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as indicated in test method CTM004 of Dow Corning Corporate, July 29, 1970. Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone mixture constituting the second phase of fluid varies of about 500 mm ^ .s - * - to about 100 »OOO mm ^ .s - * -» preferably from about 1,000 mm ^ .s - * - to about 10,000 mm58. s-3-. An especially preferred silicone rubber based component for use in the compositions herein, is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 together with a silicone carrier having a viscosity of about 0.65 to about 100 mm ^ .s-4. An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% dimethicone fluid 5 in ^ s-1/15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401, available from Dow Corning. Another class of silicone suitable for use in the second silicone-containing phase of the present invention includes copolymers of polydiorganosiloxane and polyoxyalkylene containing at least one segment of polydiorganosiloxane and at least one segment of polyoxyalkylene, said segment of polydiorganosiloxane consists essentially from: RBSiOt siloxane units, wherein b has a value of about or about 3, inclusive, with an average value of about 2 R radicals per silica for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl , vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical linking said polyoxyalkylene segment with the polydiorganosiloxane segment, with at least about 95% of all radicals R 'being methyl and said polymer segment having an average molecular weight of less than about 100% and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mole percent of polyolefin oxide units and from about 50 to about 100 mole percent of polyoxyethylene units, at least a terminal portion of said segment. of polyoxyalkylene is attached to said polydiorganosiloxane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment is not attached to said polyoxyalkylene segment. polydiorganos loxane, being occupied by a termination radical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer "has a value from about 2 to about 8. These polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499. Preferred for use herein are copolymers of diorganosiloxane-polyalkylene glycol having the general formula: CH-CH- CH-CK-llnv- 'Si (S'i- 0) «- -CH- CH- CH- * C3H6 CH- (C2H40) a (C3H60), R where x and y are selected in such a way that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyalkyl segments is from about 2 to about 8, the molar ratio of a: (a + b) is appropriate. ? approximately 0.5 to approximately 1, and R is a chain terminator group, selected especially from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy »benzyloxy; aryloxy »such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyl? i and allyl? iy acyl? i, such as aceto?, acrylo? and propon i, and amino such as dimethylamino. The number of segments in the copolymer and their average molecular weights are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosyl segments to poly-oxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.0. Suitable copolymers are commercially available under the trademarks Belsil (MR) from WacKei-Chemie GmbH, Gescháf sbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abi 1 (MR) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex , HA4 OYL, for example Belsil (MR) 6031 and Abil (MR) B881S3. A particularly preferred copolymer for use herein includes Dow Corning DC3225C, which has the CTFA designation of dimethicone copolyol / dimethicone.

Amphiphilic Surfactant An additional essential component of the present compositions is an organic amphiphilic surfactant capable of forming lyotropic crystals of smectite in the product, or when the product is applied to the skin at room temperature or at elevated temperatures. Preferably, the amphiphilic surfactant is capable of forming liquid crystals at a temperature in the range of about 20 ° C to about 40 ° C. Preferably, the amphiphilic surfactant is capable of forming smectite lyotropic liquid crystals. Once the application of the product to the skin has been completed, the crystals may not be identifiable on the surface of the skin or stratum corneum. The amphiphilic surfactant is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight. Amphiphilic liquid crystal forming surfactants, suitable for use herein, contain both hydrophilic and lipophilic groups and exhibit a remarkable tendency to be absorbed on a surface or surface., that is, they are surfactants. Amphiphilic surfactant materials for use herein include nonionic (uncharged), anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge) and amphoteric (both charges), based on whether or not they are ionized in aqueous medium. In the literature, liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids, a fourth state of matter, structure of tension association, or mesophase. These terms are used interchangeably frequently. The term "lyotropic" means a liquid crystalline system that contains a polar solvent such as water. The liquid crystals used herein are preferably lamellar, hexagonal, rod or vesicle structures, or mixtures thereof. The liquid crystalline phase used in the compositions of the invention can be identified in various ways. A liquid crystalline phase flows under shear stress and is characterized by a viscosity that is significantly different from the viscosity of its phase in isotropic solution. Rigid gels do not flow under shear stress like liquid crystals. Also »when observed with a polarized light microscope» liquid crystals show identifiable birefringence »as for example» laminar flat birefringence »whereas when isotropic solutions and rigid gels are observed under polarized light» both show dark fields. Other suitable means for identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction »NMR spectroscopy and electron transmission microscopy. Generally speaking, the preferred organic amphiphilic surfactant for use herein can be described as a liquid or water-dispersible waxy liquid material having the formula XY, wherein X represents a hydrophilic portion, especially a non-ionic portion, and And it represents a lipophilic portion. Suitable organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are those having an HLB (hydrophilic balance-1 ipofilic) average in scale from about 2 to about 12", preferably from about 4 to about 8. Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants which are used herein have a long chain saturated or unsaturated l chain or branched, having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, such as oleic, 1-na-ion, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, isostearyl chains. , lauric, coconut, stearic or alkylphenyl. When the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material forming the liquid crystal phase is a nonionic group, a polyexyethylene or a polyol cerol, an oxyalkylated polyol ester or not and, for example, a polyoxyalkylated sorbitol can be used. or sugar ester. When the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic surfactant forming the liquid crystal phase is an ionic group, a phospholipid residue such as that found in lecithin can be advantageously used as the hydrophilic group. Hydrophilic portions suitable for use herein are selected from: (1) linear or branched polyglycerol ethers having the following formula: R- (Qly) "- 0H where n is an integer between 1 and 6 »R is selected from aliphatic chains. linear or branched. saturated or unsaturated. from 12 to 30 carbon atoms »the hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols and the 2-hydroxyalkyl residue of long chain» alpha-diols »and Gly represents a glycerol residue» (2) poly ethallylated fatty alcohols » for example those of the formula R: t (CaíR ^ 0) > (0H.wherein Rx is C12-Cao linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl and x ranges from about 0 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6%, preferably from about 1 to about 4; (3) poly esters and polyol polyalkoxy ester esters, and mixtures thereof, the polyols are preferably selected from sugars, alkylsols of Cjg-Cß, glycerol, polyglycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols. and polypropylene glycols, and wherein the polyol pol alkoxy ester esters contain from about 2 to about 20, preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (especially from the or ethylene) per mole of polyester ester; (4) phosphoglycerides, glycolipids and natural and synthetic ingolipoids, eg, cerebrosides, ceramides and lecines, Examples of suitable amphiphilic surfactants for use herein include surfactant amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic ions containing alkyl and acyl of Cß-Cao, as indicated below.

Amphoteric N-alkylamino acids (e.g., sodium N-alkylaminoacetate); Ester of N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol (e.g., Eldew CL-301, Ajinomoto).

Anionic acylglutamates (e.g., disodium N-lauroylglutamate); Sarcosinatos (e.g. »lauri 1 sodium arcosi ato» Grace »Seppic); Taurates (e.g., »sodium lauryltaurate» sodium methylcocoyl taurate). Carboxylic acids and their salts (e.g., potassium oleate, potassium laurate, potassium 10-undekenoate, 11- (p-styryl) -undecanoate potassium); Ethoxylated carboxylic salts (e.g., sodium carboxymethyl alkyl ethoxylate); Carboxylic acid ethers; Esters of phosphoric acid and their salts (e.g., lec ina; DEA-oleth-10-phosphate); Acyl isethionates (e.g., sodium 2-lauroyl-ietanesulfonate); Alkanesulfonates (e.g.,? -alkanesulfonate (? / 1) of branched sodium); Sulfosuccinates e.g. »Dibutylsulphate sodium» sodium di-2-phenylsulphosuccinate di-2-ethylbutyl sodium sulfosuccinate »sodium di-hexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium di-2-ethylhexosulfonate (AOT ), Di-2-Eti sodium Iododecylsulfosuccinate, di-2-Ethyloctadec sodium sulfosuccinate, sodium Dioclysulfosuccinate, disodium Laurethsulfosuccinate (MacKanate El, Mclntyre Group Ltd.) Esters of sulfuric acid (e.g. sodium l-hept-6-enyl sulfate, sodium l-heneicosyl sulfate). Alkyl sulfate (e.g., MEA-alkylsulfate such as MEA-lauryl sulfate).

Caton cos Alkyl imidazole inas. (e.g., alkylhydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearylhydro-ethylimidazoline (suppliers Akzo, Finete, and Hoechst)); Etholated amines (e.g., PEG-n-alkylamin, PE6-n-alkylaminopropylamin, Psaloamine »PEG-cocopoliamine, PEG-15-seboa ina); Alkylamines (e.g., dimeti lalqui laminate »dileate dioctyl lalqu lam na).

Quaternaries: alkylbenzyldimethyl ammonium salts (e.g., stearalkonium chloride) »Alkyl betaines (e.g.» dodecyl dimethyl ammonium acetate, olei 1 betaine); Heterocyclic ammonium salts (e.g., alkyleti-1-morphine imosulfate); Tetracylky onium salts (e.g. »Di-methenylammonium quaternary chloride (Witco))» Bis-isostearamidepropihydro? -propyl diammonium chloride (Schercoquat 21AP from Scher Chemicals) 1.8-Bis- bis (decimeti ammonium decimeti) - 3 »6-dio? Aoctane.

Non-ionic tensides Glycerides ethoides; Monoglycerides (e.g., monoolein; mono! Inolein; monolaurin; 1-odecanoi-1-glycerolmonolaurine; 1,13-docosenoyl-gl cerolmonoerucone; diglyceride fatty acid (e.g., diglycerol monoisostearate Cosmol 41) Nisshin O l Mills Ltd.); Polyglotter esters (eg, diglycerol monooleate (Qrindsted TS-T122), diglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TST-T101); Esters and ethers of polyhydric alcohol (e.g., sucrose cocoate, keto stearyl glucoside (Montano, Seppic), esters of β-octylgluco uranoside of alkylglucoside such as C ^ c-C ^ (HenKel)); Diasters of phosphoric acid (e.g., sodium diolel phosphate); Alk lam dopropil etaine (e.g., cocoamidopropyl betaine); Amides (e.g., N- (dodecanoi laminoeti 1) -2-pyrrole idone); Amine acids: eg, l-l-dihydro-per-luorooctyldimethylamino oxide, dodecyl oxide Idimeti sheet, 2-hydroidoidoxid oxide Idimeti sheet, 2-hydroxydodecyl-bis (2) oxide -hydroethyl) -amine, Oxide of 2- idro i-4-o? ahexadec Idimeti lamina, Amidas eto? i ladas (e.g., PEG-n-aci lick); Ammonium phosphates (e.g., didecanoyllecithin); Amines (v.gr .. octylamine); A onioamides »eg, Dean idato of N-trimeti onium, Dodecanamidate of N-trimeti lami, Carbo ammonium ions, eg, Acetate dodec Idimeti lamonium, He? Anoate of 6-didodecylmethyl ammonium, Phosphonic and phosphoric esters and amides, e.g., methyl N-methyl-dodecylphosphonates, methyl dimethylsulphonate, methionylphosphonate, dodecylmethonate, diamide N, N-dimethi, dodecylphosphonic acid. Ethoxylated alcohols Polyoxyethylene (Cß), e.g., pentane-phenyl-phenyl ether of pentaoylglycol Ether P-n-octi Ifenyl ether of hexao? Ietilengl col, Ether p-n-octi Ifenyl ether of nonao? Ieti lengl icol. Polyethylene (C o), e.g., Phenyl-1-phenyl ether 1-phenyl-1-phenyl ether, 4-O-atetradecane-1-diol glyceryl ether »2-diol» Pn-deci ether Inertilone of polyethylene glycol polyoxyethylene (CAA), e.g. »3» 6.9 »13-Te raoxapentacosano-1.11- dio1 »3» 6,10-Trioradocosano-l, 8-diol, 3 »6,9,12, 16-Pentaoxaoctacosano-l, 14-dio1» 3.6,9,12,15-Pentaoxanonacosano-l, 17-diol, 3,7-Dio? Anonadecane-1, 5-diol, 3,6, 12, 15,19-he? Ao? Ahentriacontan-1, 16-diol »Pentao dodecyl ether? Ethylene glycol» Pn-dodecylphenyl ether of nonao? ietilengl icol, Polioxiet leno (C. ^), e.g., 3,6,9,12,16-Pentao? aoctacosano-1,14-dio1, 3,6,9,12, 15, 19- Herao? Tr acontan-l, 17-diol »Sulfonadi imines. v.gr .. Decylmethyl sulphonium imine Sulfo? idos »v.gr.» Meti 1sulfóido of 3-decilo? i-2-idro? i-propi 1meti lo Sulfoxido de 4-deci loxi-3-hidro? i butilmeti the. Sulfoxy inas »v.gr.» N-methyldodecylmethyl sulphoximi na.

Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are nonionic amphiphilic surfactants having a hydrophilic moiety selected from polyol esters and polyol polyalkoxy ester esters and mixtures thereof polyols are preferably selected from sugars. alkyls of C2-Cß, glycerol, polyglycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, and wherein the polyol polyalkoxylateral esters contain from about 2 to about 20, preferably from about 2 to about about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (especially ethylene oxide) per mole of polyol ester, and a selected lipophilic portion of branched long chain, saturated or unsaturated, or linear lipophilic chains having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms. carbon, such as oleic chains »lanól co» tetradecílico. acetic, isostearyl, lauric, coconut, stearic or alkyl enyl. The highly preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are selected from esters and ethers of polyhydric alcohol. Preferred amphiphilic surfactants specifically for use herein are sugar esters and polyalcoal sugar esters? sides. The sugar esters for use in this invention can be classified as hydrocarbyl and alkylpolyalkyl esters of cyclic polyhydroxylic saccharides wherein one or more of the groups on the saccharide moiety is substituted with an acyl group. or polyoxyalkylene. The hydrocarbyl sugar esters can be prepared in a well known manner by heating an acid or acid halide with sugar, that is to say by a simple esterification reaction. The sugars used in the preparation of the sugar esters include monosaccharides, disaccharides and olosaccharides well known in the art, for example the dextrorotatory or levorotatory forms of glucose., fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose and xylose. Typical disaccharides include maltose, cellobiose, lactose and trehalose. Typical trisaccharides include raffinose and gentianose. It is preferred to use disaccharides, especially sucrose, here. Sucrose can be esterified in one or more of its eight hydroxyl groups to provide the sucrose esters useful herein. When sucrose is combined with a sterilizing agent in a molar ratio i: i », sucrose montesters are formed; when the ratio of the esterifying agent to sucrose is 2: 1 or greater, the di- »-» etc. esters are formed up to a maximum of the octaester. The sugar esters preferred herein are those prepared by the esterification of sugars at a molar ratio of the ingredient "sugar: sugar of 1: 1 and 3: 1" ie the monoacyl and diacyl ester or higher sugar acyl Especially preferred are the monoacyl diacyl and t and the sugar sugar esters and mixtures thereof wherein the acyl substituents contain from about 8 to about 24, preferably from about 8 to about 20, carbon atoms and O. 1 or 2 unsaturated portions Of the monoacolo and sugar diacyl esters, the respective disaccharide sugar esters, especially sucrose, are particularly preferred, wherein the acyl groups contain about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms. preferred herein are sucrose cocoate »sucrose onooctanoate» sucrose monodecanoate »sucrose monolaurate» sa monomyristate carosa »sucrose monopalmitate» sucrose monostearate »sucrose monooleate» mono! sucrose inoleate »sucrose dioleate» sucrose dipalm »sucrose distearate» saccharose dilaurate and sucrose di linoleate »and mixtures thereof. It has been found that sucrose cocoate is particularly effective in the present compositions. In mixtures of monoacyl sugar esters with diacyl triacyl and higher acyl, the monoacyl and diacyl esters preferably comprise at least approximately 40% preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of the mixture. of total sugar ester. Other sugar esters suitable for use in the compositions of this invention are the alkylpolyalkylene glycol sugar esters wherein a hydroxy group is substituted with an alkyl group of Cm-Ca_mf and wherein one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the sugar molecule are replaced with an ester or ether substituent containing the portion C (CHa) M_01 ^ "where x is an integer from 2 to about 4" preferably 2, and wherein y is an integer of about 1 to about 50, preferably 8 to 30, polyalkyl substitutents. Especially preferred herein are sugar esters in which the polyalkylene substitute is a polyoxyethylene substituent containing about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups. Materials of this type in which the sorbitan is the sugar portion, are commercially available under the brand name "Tween". These mixed esters can be prepared by first applying a sugar in a 1: 1 molar ratio to a hydrocarbyl acid halide, followed by reaction with the corresponding polynalkyl acid halide, or alkylene oxide, to provide the desired material. The simple disaccharide polyalkyl ester, especially sucrose, wherein the polyalkyl groups contain up to approximately 20 portions of alkylene oxide "is another useful class of sugar ester herein. A preferred sugar ester of this class is sorbitol trioleate, side by side with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Also suitable for use herein are mixtures of sugar esters with other polyol esters, eg, glycerol esters, for example, Palm oil sucroglyceride (Rhone-Poulenc). As used herein, the term "lecithin" refers to a material that is a phosphatide. Phosphatides of natural or synthetic origin can be used. Phosphatidylcholine, or lecithin, is a glycerin esterified with a choline ester of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, usually a saturated or unsaturated long chain fatty acid having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and up to approximately 4 double bonds . Other phosphatides capable of form lamellar or hexagonal liquid crystals »in place of lecithin or in combination with it. These phosphatides are glycerol esters with two fatty acids as in lecithin, but the choline is replaced with ethanolamine (a cephal ine) or serine (acid-to-opropanoic phosphatidy iserine) or an inositol (phosphatidylinositol). Although the invention herein is exemplified with lecithin, it is understood that these other phosphatides can be used herein. A variety of lecithins can be used. American Lecithin Company provides Fos olteride Nattermann »Phospholipan 80 and Phosal 75. Other lecithins that can be used alone or in combination with these are: Actifla Series» Centrocap Series »Central Ca Series» Centro Series, Centrolene Series »Centrolex Series» Centromix »Centrophase and Centrolphil of Central Soya; Alcolec and Alcolec 439-C from American Lecithin »Canaspersa from Canada Packers» Lexin K and Natipide from American Lecithin; and L-C! earate, Clearate LV and Clearate WD of W.A. Cleary Co. Lecithins are supplied dissolved in ethanol, fatty acids, triglycerides and other solvents. They are usually mixtures of lecithins and vary from 15% to 50% of the solution as provided. Both natural and synthetic lecithins can be used. Natural lecithins are derived from oilseeds such as sunflower seeds, soybeans, safflower seeds and cotton seeds. The lecithins are separated from the oil during the refining treatment. It has been found that the organic amphiphilic surfactant is especially valuable herein to improve stability and feel in the foot! of the compositions of the invention. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably incorporated into the composition in an amount of approximately 0.4% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, and approximately 0.1% is preferred to approve. i 8%, by weight of the composition. A mixture of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol and fatty acid ester of sucrose is most preferred here, the fatty acid in each case being preferably C.-Cl. preferably Ca.Q-Cjgo. The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier, from the wetting point of view, is a mixture of sorbitan CAβ-Czo fatty acid ester or sorbitol. with sucrose fatty acid ester of CAO-Cxß, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is available commercially from ICI under the brand name Arlatone 2121.

Optional Ingredients In preferred embodiments, a third oil phase is present in an amount of approximately 0.1% to about 15%. preferably from 1% to approximately 10% by weight of the composition. The third oil phase may be either a separate phase or may form a phase together with either or both of the first and second silicone phases. Preferably, the third oil phase is a separate phase. The third oil phase preferably comprises an organic oil which is not of itself. such as a natural or synthetic oil selected from oils, fats and mineral, vegetable and animal waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof; These ingredients are useful to achieve emollient cosmetic properties. The first oil phase component is preferably essentially silicone-free, ie it does not contain more than about 10%, preferably not more than about 5% by weight, of silicone-based materials. It will be understood that the oil phase may contain, for example, up to about 25%, preferably up to only about 10%, of emulsifying ingredients soluble in the oil phase. These ingredients are not considered as components of the oil phase from the point of view of the determination of the level of oil phase and HLB required. In preferred embodiments, the required global HLB of the oil phase is from about 8 to about 12, especially from about 9 to about ll; the required HLB is determined by summing the individual values required for HLB for each component of the oil phase, multiplied by their percentage P / P in the oil phase (see the ICI literature on the HLB system, reference document ICI 51/0010 / 303 / l5m., Printed for the first time in 1976, revised in 1984 and May 1992). Suitable components of the first oil phase for use herein include, for example »unsaturated fatty acids of Cß-Cßo, optionally substituted with hydro? yl, and esters thereof, esters of saturated fatty acids of Cß-C30, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and myristate of octi Idodeci lo (Wickenol 142). beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenic alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalene »sorbitan fatty esters (see US-A-398B255» Seiden »issued October 26, 1976)» lanolin and lanolin derivatives »animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil» peanut oil »wheat germ oil» 1 i nasa oil »jojoba oil» apricot kernel oil »walnut nut, from palm kernel, pistachio nut, anjonjoli seed »rapeseed, juniper oil, corn oil, peach kernel oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, oil avocado, sunflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut nut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, Butyrospermum parki i tree fat, wood tree fat and sunflower seed oil, and esters of C ^ -Cß-t de ácid dimeric and trimeric dimerate such as di isopropyl dimerate, diisostearyl malate, di isostearyl dimerate and tristorate tri isostearyl. Of the foregoing, mineral oils, petrolatums, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, and mixtures thereof are highly preferred. Preferred embodiments herein comprise from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester. Preferred unsaturated fatty acids and esters for use herein are unsaturated fatty acids of Ca-Cβ and esters optionally substituted with hydroxy, especially esters of ricinoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid or ester component is valuable herein, in combination with the liquid crystal forming emulsifier to improve the skin feel and rubbing characteristics of the composition. In this regard, cetyl ricinoleate is very preferred. A preferred component of the compositions herein, in addition to the organic amphiphilic surfactant, is a skin conditioning agent of polyol ester. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and especially from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The level of polyol ester by weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%. The preferred polyol ester for use in the present is a polyalkyl ester, liquid or liquefiable, non-occlusive. These polyol esters are derived from a radical or portion of polyol and one or more radicals or portions of carboalic acid. In other words, these esters contain a portion derived from a polyol and one or more portions derived from a carboalic acid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be derived from a carbohydric acid. These carboxylic acid esters can also be described as liquid polyol fatty acid esters, because the terms carbo-fatty acid and fatty acid are frequently used interchangeably by the expert in the art. The preferred liquid polyol polyesters employed in this invention comprise certain polyols, especially sugars or sugar alcohols, esterified with at least 4 fatty acid groups. Consequently, the polyol starting material must have at least 4 stereo-readable hydrophilic groups. Examples of preferred polyols are the sugars "including monosaccharides and disaccharides" and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing 4 hydrophilic groups are "iodine and arabinose" and the sugar alcohol derived from il -lose. which has 5 hydrophilic groups. that is to say,? litol. The monosaccharide »eritrosa. is not suitable in the practice of this invention »since it only contains 3 hitíro groups? what »but the sugar alcohol derived from erythrose» that is, er? ri ol »contains 4 hydrophilic groups and consequently can be used. Suitable monosaccharides containing 5 hydrophilic groups are galactose, fructose and sorbose. Also suitable are sugar alcohols containing 6 -OH groups derived from the products of hydrolysis of sucrose, as well as glucose and sorbose, for example sorbitol. Examples of disaccharide polyols that can be used include maltose, lactose and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroyl groups. Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol »? Ilitol, sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Especially preferred is sucrose. The starting material of polio! having at least 4 hydroyl groups, is esterified in at least 4 of the -OH groups with a fatty acid containing approximately 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of these fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, iristoleic, palmitic, palicoleic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic stearic. Fatty acids can be derived from fatty acids of natural or synthetic origin; they may be saturated or unsaturated, including positional and geometric isomers. However, "to provide liquid polyesters for use herein" at least about 50% by weight of! fatty acid incorporated in the polyester molecule. It must be unsaturated. Oleic and linoleic acids are especially preferred. and the mixtures thereof. The polyol fatty acid esters useful in this invention must contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all hydroxyl groups of polio! are esterified with fatty acid »but it is preferable that the pol ester does not contain more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Preferably, substantially all the hydrophilic groups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acid, that is to say the polyol portion is substantially completely esterified. The fatty acids esterified to the polio molecule! They can be the same or the same. but as indicated above "a substantial amount of the unsaturated acid ester groups must be present to provide liquid character. To illustrate the above points »a sucrose acid triester would not be suitable for use here» since it does not contain the four fatty acid ester groups required. A saccharose fatty acid tetraester would be suitable, but is not preferred since it has more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. A sucrose fatty acid ester would be preferred, since it has no more than two non-esterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all hydroxyl groups are etherified with fatty acids include the liquid sucrose octa-substituted fatty acid esters. The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acid polyesters containing at least four fatty acid ester groups, suitable for use in the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of fatty acids from soybean oil ( unsaturated), the tetraesters of fatty acid mannose, the tetraesters of galactose of oleic acid, the tetraesters of arabinose of linoleic acid, tetra! omega-3-omegaleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate! »the sorbito esters! of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids »? ilitol pentaoleate» sucrose tetraoleate »sucrose pentaoleate» sucrose helaolate »sucrose heptaoleate» sucrose octaoleate »and mixtures thereof. As indicated above, the most preferred polyol fatty acid esters are those in which the fatty acids contain from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms. Preferred liquid polyol polyesters for use herein have full melting points of less than about 30 ° C "preferably less than about 27.5 ° C" and are preferably less than about 25 ° C. The complete melting points reported herein are measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include: transesteri ication of polio! with methyl, ethyl or glycerol-fatty acid esters »using a variety of catalysts; acylation of the polyol of a fatty acid chloride; acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid chloride »using a variety of catalysts; Acylation of! polyol with a fatty acid chloride »acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylation of polio! with a fatty acid »per se. See U.S. Patent No. 2,831, "854", U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, for üandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977. A highly preferred ingredient of the compositions herein is urea which is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%. %, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% and especially from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the oil phase and the organic amphiphilic surfactant are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably below about 60 ° C), to form a dispersion in water of Liquid crystal / oil »before the addition of urea. Urea is especially effective herein in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifying surfactant and the polyol fatty acid polyester to provide outstanding skin wetness and smoothness in the context of an oil-in-water emulsion composition for the care of the skin. skin. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that urea becomes more stable against hydrolytic degradation. thereby allowing an increase in the pH of the composition. A wide variety of optional ingredients such as non-occlusive moisturizers, humectants, gel-forming agents, can be added to the compositions herein. neutralizing agents, perfumes »coloring agents and surfactants. The compositions herein may comprise a humectant. Suitable humectants for use herein include sorbitol »propylene glycol» butylene glycol »helicyl» derivatives of glucose, henotriol, glycerin, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine, Ajidew (NaPCA), lubricants of methacrylate pol igl iceri soluble in water and panthenols. A preferred humectant in the present is glycerin (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerin is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a commercial product. An important source of the material is in soap making. Glycerin is especially preferred in the compositions of the invention from the viewpoint of improving hydration. It is also preferred to use in the present buti lengl col. It is particularly preferred »from the point of view of! improvement of hudratation, a combination of glycerin and urea. In the present compositions, the humectant is preferably present at a level. Approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, and especially from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, by weight of the composition. Polyl methacrylate lubricants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (M.R.) from Guardian Chemical Corporation »230 Marcus BIvd.» Hauppage »N.Y. E.U. 11787. In general, the Lubrajel can be described as hydrates or clathrates that are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a polymer of methacrylic acid. Then »the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylenegluc followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. The Lubrajel are marketed in varying degrees of proportion: cerate: polymer, and variable viscosity. The right Lubrajel include Lubrajel TW »Lubrajel CG and Lubrication! MS »Lubrajel WA» Lubrajel DV, and the so-called Lubrajel oil. At least a part (up to approximately 5% by weight of the composition) of the humectant can be incorporated in the form of a mixture with a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material. AND! Vehicle material and humectant can be added to the aqueous phase or to the dispersed phase. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling grease, while helping to provide effective hydration benefits. The hydrophobic interlaced polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer network with at least one active ingredient uniformly dispersed therein and entrapped within the copolymer network. Alternately, the hydrophobic polymer may take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N -... BET) on the scale of about 50 to 500 °, preferably 100 to 3O0 m ^ .g-3- » and have the active ingredient absorbed therein. The hydrophobic interlaced polymer is preferably present in an amount of approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, and is preferably incorporated in the aqueous ternary phase. The active ingredient may be one or more of a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible moisturizers, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. In one embodiment, the polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles. The dust particle system forms a network that includes unitary particles of less than about 1 mie average diameter, agglomerates of fused unitary particles, of a size on the scale of about 20 to 10O microns of average diameter, and aggregates of clusters. of fused agglomerates of size in the scale of approximately 200 to 1,200 microns of average diameter. The powdery material of this embodiment can be broadly described as a network of "post-absorbed" hydrophobic polymer interlaced. The dust is preferably trapped and dispersed in the water. same »an active ingredient that can be in the form of a solid» liquid or gas. The network is in particulate form and constitutes discrete solid particles of free flow when loaded with the active material. The network can contain a predetermined amount of the active material. A suitable polymer has the structural formula: wherein the ratio of x a is 80:20, R * is -CH2CH2- and R "is - (CH2) a.iCH3 The hydrophobic polymer is a highly interlaced polymer, more particularly a highly entangled polyether-copolymer copolymer. The material is manufactured by Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan, USA and sold under the brand name POLYTRAP (MR), it is an ultra lightweight, free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids. While the same time they maintain a dust character of the flow The structure of the dust consists of a network of unitary particles of less than one kind that merge into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are grouped without cohesive in macroparticles or aggregates of approximately 200 to approximately 1200 microns in size.The polymer powder is capable of containing up to 4 times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersion or molten solids. The adsorption of active ingredients onto the polymer powder can be achieved by using a stainless steel mixing vessel and a spoon, wherein the active ingredient is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently bind the active ingredient in the polymer powder. Low viscosity fluids can be adsorbed by adding the fluids to a sealable container containing the polymer, and then stirring the materials until a certain consistency is achieved. More elaborate mixing equipment such as batten or double cone mixers can also be used. The preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerin. Preferably, the weight ratio of. Moisturizer to vehicle is from about 1: 4 to about 3: 1. It is also suitable as a highly entangled polymethacrylate copolymer, Microsponge 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particles of interlaced hydrophobic polymer, having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about 0.05 μm, and a surface area of 200- 300 m ^ / g. Again, it is preferably loaded with the humectant at the levels described above. The compositions of the invention may also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a preferred level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially about 0.02. % Approximately O.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (in 1% aqueous solution, 20 ° C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 400 mPas, preferably of at least about 10,000 mPas, and especially of at least 50,000. mPas. Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (eg, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl ethylcellulose), poly ivin Ipirrol idone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and? antano gum. Preferred hydrophilic gel-forming agents in The present, however, are copolymers of acrylic acid with ethyl acrylate and the carboyl-inyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company, under the brand of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a crosslinked polyalkyl ether polymer, colloidally soluble in water, of acrylic acid entangled with 0.75% to 2.00% of an entanglement agent such as for example polyalkyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyalkyl ether of sucrose having an average of approximately 5.B allyl groups for each molecule of sucrose. A preferred polymer is Carbopol 954. Hydrophobically modified entangled polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties are also suitable herein for use under the brand Carbopol 1382 Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: crosslinked polymer of Acrylate / Alkyl Acrylate 10-30). Also suitable is a combination of the acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with polyalkenyl polyether "and e! hydrophobically modified interlaced acrylic acid polymer, and it is preferred to use in the present. The gel-forming agents of the present are particularly valuable in providing excellent stability characteristics at both normal temperature and elevated temperature. Neutralizing agents suitable for use in the neutralization of hydrophilic gelling agents containing acid groups herein include hydrated sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. The compositions of the invention are in the form of an emulsion and preferably formulated in such a way as to have a product viscosity of at least approximately 4,000 mPas, and preferably in the scale of approximately 4,000 to about 300,000 mPas, preferably from approximately 8,000 to approximately 200,000 mPas, and specifically from approximately 10,000 to approximately 100,000 mPas "very much" -preferred approximately 10,000 to approve. 50, OOO mPas (pure, 25 ° C, spindle No. 5 »Brookfield RVT). The compositions of the invention may also contain from 0.1% Approximately approx. preferably 10%%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5% of a panthenol moisturizer. The panthenol moisturizer can be selected from D-panthenol (CR3-2,4-dihydro? IN-C3-hydroxypropyl) 3-3,3-dimethyl butamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly »panthetin» pantothein » ethyl ether from pante üo »pangámico acid» pir? do? ina »pantoi 1-lactose and vitamin B complex. D-panthenol is very preferred» from e! point of view of skin care and reduction of stickiness. The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise approximately 0.001% by weight. 0.5% preferably from approximately 0.O02% to approximately 0.05%. very preferred of appropriately 0. 005% to approximately 0.02% by weight of carboxymethyl quinata.

• Chitin is a polysaccharide that is present in the integument of lobsters and crabs and is an isacid mucopol that has beta (1-4) bonds of N-acet l-D-glucosamine. Carboxymethylkine is prepared by treating e! chitin material purified with alkali, followed by monochloroacetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of an aqueous diluted solution (approximately 0.1% to 0.5% by weight) under the name of "Liquid Chitin" available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingb i ge, Ha pshire. England.

Other optional materials include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; preservatives soluble or soluble in water, such as Germall 115, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl! esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Eu? il (M.R.) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxyropanol; antibacterials such as Irgasan (M.R.) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of 0.1% to about 5%); soluble or colloidally soluble moisturizing agents such as hilaronic acid and sodium polyacrylates grafted with starch, such as Sanwet (M.R.) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2SO, available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials. Portsmith, VA. E.U.A., and described in US-A-4,076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C. vitamin E and vitamin K; alpha and beta-hydroxides; Aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine; coloring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers and additional surfactants / emulsifiers such as fatty alcohol ethers, polyol fatty acid esters, where the polyol can be selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, pol ipropi lengl icol »glucose and sucrose. Examples include glyceryl mono-stearate and stearyl alcohol on the side with an average of 10 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, and caprylic / capric glycerides of PEG-6.

Also useful here are sunscreen agents. A wide variety of sunscreens is described in the U.S. patent. No. 5,087,445"to Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992» US patent. No. 5,073,372, for Turner et al., Issued December 7, 1991; and Segarin and others, in chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq. of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Preferred among the sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from 2-ethyhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimeti-1-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyl-2-phenyl-4-sulphonic acid, octocrylene »or? ibenzone» homomenthyl salicylate »octyl salicylate» 4,4"-metho-it-butyldibenzoyl ethane, 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzyl idenalcanfor, 3- (4-methyl-1-benzyl iden) camphor, titanium dioxide »zinc oxide» silica »iron oxide» Parsol MLX, Eusole? 6300 »octocrylene, Parso! 1789» and mixtures thereof. they are those described in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli "issued June 26, 1990, and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991. The agents of sunscreen described herein have, in a single molecule »two different cro-ophoracic portions that exhibit different spectro of ultraviolet radiation absorption. One of the chromophore portions absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation region and the other absorbs strongly in the UVA radiation region. These sunscreens provide superior efficacy »wider absorption of UV light» lower skin penetration and longer lasting efficacy, relative to conventional sunscreens. Especially preferred examples of these sunscreens include those selected from the4-N-Hydroxybenzophenone of 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) 1-methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydro? Idibenzoylmethane, 4-N »N- (2-ethylhexyl) methi-laminobenzoic acid of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl ester laminobenzoic acid 4- (2-hydroxyletho) i) dibenzoyl-1-methane »and mixtures thereof. In general, sunscreens can comprise approximately 0.5% to approve. 20% of the compositions useful herein. The amounts and minutes vary depending on the chosen sunscreen and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is a common measure of photoprotection of a sunblock against erythema. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, p. 38206, 38269, August 25, 1978. The compositions of the present invention may additionally contain from 0.1% to about 5% by weight of starch aluminum octenyl succinate. Aluminum starch octenyl succinate is the aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenyl succinic anhydride with starch, and is commercially available under the Dry Star brand of National Starch &; Chemical Ltd. Dry Fio is useful in the present from the point of view of skin sensation and application characteristics. Other optional materials herein include pigments which, when insoluble in water, contribute to, and are included in, the total level of oil phase ingredients. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and / or inorganic. Materials that have a low color or luster, such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents are also included within the term pigment. Examples of these suitable pigments are iron oxides, iron oxides, Iglutamate. ultramarine blue »D &C dyes» carmine »and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition, a mixture of pigments will normally be used. Preferred pigments to be used herein from the viewpoint of hydration, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility, are the treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids »silicones» lecithin and ester oils. The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, preferably from about 6 to about S.O. The rest of the composition is water or an aqueous vehicle suitable for topical application to the skin. The water content of the present compositions is generally from about 30% to about 98.89%, preferably from about 50% to about 95% and especially from about 60% to about 90% by weight. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

EXAMPLES I TO V I /% II /% n? /% - IV /% V /% Cetyl alcohol 0.72 0.5 O.B 0.65 0.75 Stearic acid 0.11 0.2 O.l 0.2 0.1 Steareth lOO 0.1 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 Propi 1paraben 0.17 O.OB 0.O7 0.15 0.07 ArlatoneíM.R. ) 2121 (1) l.O 2.0 1.5 l.O 4.0 Gl icerina 3 4 8 2.5 3.5 Carbopol (M.R.) 1382 0.1 0.075 0.08 0.075 0.075 Carbopol (M.R.) 954 O.7 0.56 0.5 0.65 0.45 Na4 EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.1 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.175 0.175 0.175 NaOH (40% solution) l.O O.B 0.8 0.8 0.8 Dimeticone Q21403 1.0 1.0 0.5 2.0 1.0 Uncle,,. 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Perfume 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 - Urea 2.5 1.5 3 2 2.5 EXAMPLES I TO V (CONTINUED) SEFA (2) O.O 0.0 2.5 2.0 2.2 Octyldodeci 1 benzoate O.O O.O O.O 1.0 l.O KSG-18 (3) 3.0 1.5 2.0 3.2 2.5 Color 0.0004 0.0002 0.0003 O.O 0.0 Water at 100 to 100 to 100 to 11 1. - Provided by ICI. 2.- Liquid sucrose polyester which is a mixture of hexa-, hepta-, and sucrose octaesters esterified with mixed cottonseed oil fatty acids »predominantly octaester. 3.- Provided by Shinetsu Chemical Co. Ltd.

The compositions are made as follows: A first premix of thickening agents is prepared »Arlatone 2121» methyl 1-paraben, premix glycerin / TiO,., And other water-soluble ingredients, apart from urea, by mixing in water and heating up to about 80 ° C A second premix of oil phase ingredients, apart from the silicone rubber, is prepared by mixing and heating; This oily premix is added to the aqueous premix. The resulting mixture is cooled to approximately 60 ° C. It is then added to the resulting oil-in-water emulsion, silicone gum, KSG-1B and urea; Allow the mixture to cool before adding the minor ingredients. The composition is ready to be packed. The compositions exhibit improved hydration characteristics, skin feel and skin care, together with reduced fattyness and excellent rubbing and rapid absorption characteristics.

Claims (26)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - A skin care composition comprising: a) a silicone-containing phase comprising polymer of crosslinked polyorganosi lobe and silicone oil, wherein the composition comprises approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight; % by weight of the combination of polyorganosi polymer interlaced and silicone oil; b) Approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight of an organic amphiphilic liquid crystal forming surfactant; and c) water; wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

2.- A composition in accordance with the rei indication 1 »characterized because it comprises of Approximately O.5% to approve? 10% »preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%. by weight of the composition "of the combination of interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil.

3. A composition in accordance with the rei indication 1 or 2"characterized in that the combination of interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone oil consists of approximately 10% to about 40%, preferably about 20% to approximatively 30%, by weight of the combination, of the interlaced polymer "and from approximately 60% to approximately 90%, preferably from approximately 70% to approximately 80%, by weight of the combination, of the oil of silicone.

4. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition comprises polyorganosiloal polymer interlaced with an entanglement agent, wherein the entanglement agent has the formula: (CH3) 3Si -? - wherein Rx is methyl »ethyl» propyl or phenyl, R8 is H or - (CHß) ^ CH-sCHjg, and z is on the scale from about 1 to about 1000.

5. A composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the interlacing agent has the formula: CH3 (CH3) 3Si - O- si -Ohs. (CH3) 3 H where ? it is on the scale of approximately 1 to approximately 1000.

6. - A composition according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the entangled polysiloxane polymer comprises from about 10% to about 50%, preferably from about 20% to about 30% »by weight of the polysiloxane polymer 'interlaced anus' of entanglement agent.

7. A composition according to any of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the organo polyol polymer is selected from polymers having the general formula: in which R is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R 5 is H or -, C z) nCH = CHa, R 3 and R 4 are selected independently from methyl, ethyl, propyl and phenyl; p is an integer in scale from about 1 to about 2000"is an integer on the scale of about 1 to about 1000.

8. A composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the polyorganosilicone polymer is selected from polymers having the formula: where 1 is an integer on the scale from approximately 1 to approximately 1000, is an integer on the scale of 0 to approximately 1000, and n is an integer on the scale of approximately 1 to approximately 1000.

9.- A composition according to claim 7, wherein m is on the scale from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 200 to about 800.

10. A composition according to any of the rei indications 9, characterized because the silicone oil is selected from silicone oils having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less, most preferably selected from silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight. on the scale from about 100 to about 50,000, especially from about 200 to about 40,000.

11. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 10"characterized in that the silicone oil is selected from dimethicone» decamethyl cyclopentasi lo? Anus "octamethyl cyclotetrasine" and phenyl methicone "and mixtures thereof.

12. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 10 »characterized in that the silicone oil is feni lmeticone.

13. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 or 12 »wherein the amphiphilic emulsifier is selected from polio esters!, alkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof, said esters are preferably selected from mono-, di- and triester materials.

14. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the organic amphiphilic emulsifier is a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate.

15. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises approximately 0.01% to approximately 20% by weight of a polyol ester of liquid carbo-organic acid. , that has a portion of polio! and at least 4 portions of carbohydric acid, wherein the polyol portion is selected from sugars and sugar alcohols containing from 4 to approximately 8 hydrophilic groups, and wherein each portion of acid The carboxylic acid is suitably 8 to approximately 22 carbon atoms, and wherein said polyol carboxylic acid ester has a complete melting point of less than about 30 ° C.

16. - A composition according to claim 15, characterized in that said polyol ester of liquid carbo-organic acid does not contain more than approximately 2 free hydrophilic groups.

17. A composition according to claim 15 or 16 »characterized in that said portions of carbohydric acid contain from approximately 14 to approximately 18 carbon atoms.

18. A composition according to any of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that said polyol portion is selected from erythritol »? Ilitol» sorbitol »glucose» sucrose and mixtures thereof.

19. A composition according to any of claims 15 to 18 »characterized in that said polyol portion is sucrose.

20. A composition according to any of claims 15 to 19 »characterized in that said liquid carboxylic acid polyol ester has a complete melting point below approximately 27.5 ° C.

21. A composition according to any of claims 15 to 20 »characterized in that said polyol polyester of liquid carboolic acid has a complete melting point below approximately 25 ° C.

22. A composition according to any of claims 15 to 21 »characterized in that said polyol carboxylic acid ester is selected from sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose heloleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. thereof.

23. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 22, further characterized in that it comprises approximately 0.1% to about 20% by weight of urea.

24. A composition for skin care according to any of claims 1 to 23 »further characterized in that it comprises approximately 0.1% to approximately 20% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerin» polymethyl methacrylate lubricants ceryl »butyl lengl icol, sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol» hexi lengl col. ethoxylated derivatives of glucose, hexanetriol and glucose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

25. A composition for skin care according to claim 24, characterized in that the humectant is glycerin. 26.- A composition for skin care comprising: a) a first phase containing silicone comprising polyorganosiloyl polymer, interlaced anus and silicone oil, wherein the composition comprises of approximately 0.1% Approx. 20% by weight of the combination of crosslinked polyorganosilicate polymer and silicone oil; b) a second phase containing non-interlaced silicone; c) a third oil phase comprising natural or synthetic oil selected from oils, fats and mineral, vegetable and animal waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof; and d) water; wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.