Carnets de voyage

In 1952 Ernesto "Che" Guevara was a shy, middle class medical student in Argentina. Within a few years, he had become the world's most iconic revolutionary, a personal journey that begun with a physical one, a trip undertaken with a friend around South America. This was an age before budget airlines and backpackers hostels, so the expedition was a hard one, even if it could only have been contemplated by a child of (relative) privilege; and in Walter Salles' film, 'The Motorcycle Diaries', these travels are sympathetically and understatedly recreated, with the story of Guervara's political development the underlying (but subtly handled) theme. The movie showcases the beautiful scenery of Chile and Peru, and convincingly portrays a perhaps more austere age than our own, in which Guevera and his companion might be honoured and humbled by the people they met. The two are presented as appealing characters, in no way heroic but open-minded, human and compassionate; based of Che's own writings, it may not be neutral but although the pair start no revolutions (except for a minor revolt against the nuns in a leper colony), it's still an inspiring story. A world of immense inequality and suffering would be a better place today if more of those fortunate enough to be able to travel were to do so in the spirit of Che.

The Motorcycle Diaries does a great job of sketching out the character of Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, without any pandering to our knowledge of who he will become. There are no cheap shots and only one 'Che' joke-to explain the origin of the nickname, which is a play on the Argentinian accent. It's a deeply felt examination of the events that inspired the development of a political consciousness, with only a few touches of the hagiography that has developed around 'el Che' and those not until late in the film. Gael Garcia Bernal is completely believable and very human in the role, and there's real chemistry between him and Rodrigo de la Serna (any relation?) who plays his friend Granado, leading to a lot of funny moments-important, as ther are many stretches of the movie where it is just them and the scenery. The cinematography is truly gorgeous, and reminded me how little of the South American landscape we ever see on film in the U.S. The cinematographer has pulled off a major feat in shooting a period film in slightly grainy, sometimes shaky hand-held. No crane shots or sepia tinting here-the film quality immerses you in Guevara and Granado's experiences and makes them feel very immediate, without sacrificing any sense of history. A film like this is long overdue, and it deserves wide distribution. While the plot revolves around Che's awakening to the social struggles of South America (which are ongoing) there is a rich sense of place, and people, and beauty here. It seems to me that this is the first South American film in a few years that is not a world-weary documentary about social or political problems (and U.S. involvement in them), to open in the U.S. market. It's about the life of Che, yes, but it doesn't forget the people and problems that lead him into political activity, and will hopefully inspire viewers to pay more attention to what is going on around them, not only in Buenos Aires, Cuzco, Havana or Chiapas, but right next door.

THE MOTORCYCLE DIARIES (Walter Salles - Argentina/Chile/France/Germany/UK/USA 2004).

From the director who unleashed the Oscar-nominated CENTRAL DO BRASIL (1998) on the world and is now torturing audiences around the world with Paris JE T'AIME (a joint-project with some other world-weary humanist directors), a film unlikely to increase Paris' appeal. The film seems conveniently marketed for the anti-globalist soul-searching urbanites in Europe. It will probably keep them quiet for a while, since 'having seen this film' undoubtedly cleansed many souls.

The film's first hour is spent in the extreme southern corners of the continent, in Patagonia, which plays more like a National Geographic episode with some laughably awful dramatics in between. Some time is spent in central Chile and by the 57 minute we arrive in Peru. They use a shot of exactly the same mountain in exactly the same angle (prabably very consciously done) as in AGUIRRE: DER ZORN GOTTES by Werner Herzog, near the ruins of Machu Picchu. This was one of the worst parts of the film, where our infallible heroes engage in some embarrassing chit chat, and - en passant - blame colonialism, Catholicism and modern capitalism for all misery, while talking to some local Incan descendants about how they're gonna put an end to poverty in the world.

Director Walter Salles has an indestructible believe in the goodness of mankind. I do not share this view, but such a perspective shouldn't be a barrier upfront for making a decent film. Salles, however, shows our hero as a completely one-note morally unambiguous robot. He is like a God to him. He seems to lack any questioning about his morals or world view. His view is already established at a young age and now the world has to adapt to his insights, and to this film, which does nothing but play lip-service to these, which results in even more suffering for the audience. All political views aside, the film doesn't offer the slightest assault of the senses, with two incredibly uninteresting characters. The film is largely made to tell the story of Che Guevara, or perhaps show us the diversity of South-American culture and its people, but the film's observations are alarmingly clichéd, contrived and repetitive.

Camera Obscura --- 0/10

"The Motorcycle Diaries" (Diarios de motocicleta) works more effectively as a bio-pic than on its own as a road movie.

The scenery throughout Latin America is beautiful and the two leads are very affecting, especially Gael García Bernal as Ernesto Guevara de la Serna when "Che" is still nascent.

But it's surprising how undramatic what happens that turns a sweet, middle-class med student into a revolutionary. He was already a liberal who wanted to help leprosy patients, so what happens isn't a complete turn-around -- even when they are broke, they can wire home for more money. Rather it sets off an internal thoughtfulness that is difficult to catch on film.

Mostly just leaving his sheltered life, particularly being dropped by his wealthy girlfriend, and seeing the continent, especially his first exposure to the indigenous peoples who suffer the most in every South American country even while tourists are visiting the ruins of their ancestors, becomes the nexus of his pan-continental political ideals.

He is mostly an observer and inconsistent protester of injustice, not a victim -- it's startling that his culminating noble sojourn at the leper colony, where he can put his skills and indivisible warmth to specific good, is only for three weeks.

So there's no eye-opening "Grapes of Wrath" conflict, though he is always contrasted with his carefree companion, Alberto Granado. Their close camaraderie is well-captured and Ernesto has a profound impact on him, as we learn in a final biographical summary.

It is amusing that Ernesto contradicts the stereotype of the Latin male sensualist and is a terrible dancer to the lovely soundtrack.

THE MOTORCYCLE DIARIES (2004) ***1/2 Gael Garcia Bernal,

Rodrigo De la Serna, Mia Maestro. (Dir: Walter Salles)

Che Guevera is sadly best known today as a mysterious icon for a pop culture ironic t-shirt sported by the supposedly hip and political. Few, including this reviewer, really knew much more about the firebrand revolutionist who was a comrade in Cuban arms with Fidel Castro in a crusade that led to his eventual capture and execution by the CIA as a notorious fly-in-the-ointment career criminal.

However new insight – albeit a few shades of grey and free styling dramatic license intact – depicts a twenty something medical student named Ernesto Guevera da la Serna, a South American native (memorably portrayed by the ever soulful Bernal, in a truly outstanding breakthrough performance) who partners with his best friend Alberto Granado (strongly supportive De la Serna) on a trek by motorcycle (a battered 1939 Norton to be exact) an 800 plus mile quest from Argentina up thru the upper regions of Peru with nothing but a few provisions and even less dinero.

Relying on their bonhomie, make-shift surroundings and clever improvisation the odd couple manage to get to Ernesto's girlfriend's nouveau riche family where he tells the lovely Chichina Ferreyra (the fetching Maestro) that he wants her to wait for him but knows in his heart this is more than likely never to be.

After several humorous encounters along the fray the duo finally have to give up their trusty vehicle after many hardships and torrential weather obstacles to go on foot then finally on ferry to their destination: an internship with a leper colony. Along the way the duo meet many disenfranchised and impoverished fellow countrymen and their women and families and with each soul-crushing pit-stop you can feel the stirrings of ire catching fire within the young man who will become Che Guevera.

Salles, who directed the exceptional CENTRAL STATION, smartly allows his two fine actors plenty of room to get into the skins of their funny, fighting and deep souled characters while enlisting the picturesque surroundings of the lush and jaw-droppingly beautiful playas, mountains and countryside (exquisitely rendered by ace cinematographer Eric Gautier) and underlies the proceedings with a hauntingly stirring score by Gustavo Santaolalla.

But it is Bernal who is most powerful in his implosive, soulful and heartfelt turn as the young impassioned man just about to break for greatness; the same can be said of this talented actor's star bursting career.