WO2026027763A1 - Composition containing at least one pigment and a specific organic compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula C_nH_2nO₃ in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one ester or ether function; and b) at least one pigmentary colorant.

Description

Composition containing at least one pigment and a specific organic compound

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula C_nH_2nO₃ in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester or ether oxide; and

b) at least one pigmentary colorant.

It also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or skin appendages.

Cosmetic compositions for make-up very often contain volatile compounds. These compounds are necessary first of all to offer sensory qualities and textures to users when applying cosmetic products. In addition, these volatile compounds participate in expressing the final properties of the product film applied to the skin, such as the coverage and homogeneity of the film.

There are several chemical classes of cosmetic volatile compounds, which can be lipophilic or hydrophilic. The main lipophilic cosmetic volatile compounds are on the one hand hydrocarbon compounds, which can be of mineral, plant or animal origin, and on the other hand synthetic silicones. Among hydrocarbon compounds, alkanes are increasingly being used to limit the use of volatile silicones in cosmetic products, particularly in products based on natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. However, it turns out that the alkanes used for this purpose are apolar molecules, which do not exhibit optimal properties of compatibility with a wide variety of colorants.

The main hydrophilic compounds such as water, or hydrophilic volatile solvents, such as ethanol and isopropanol, which are polar, also do not exhibit optimal properties of compatibility with a wide variety of pigments.

In anhydrous compositions, in order to increase the polarity of the medium, it is possible to mix the alkanes with absolute ethanol. However, absolute ethanol is not always compatible with colouring raw materials or other cosmetic raw materials. In addition, ethanol can be a source of discomfort, necessitating limiting its level in cosmetic compositions. Moreover, ethanol has a very low flash point (13°C), which requires the implementation of safety measures when using this pure solvent, but also when manufacturing, storing and transporting cosmetic products containing ethanol. Finally, the very high volatility of ethanol can lead to a very short playtime, which can result in depreciation of the cosmetic product.

The “playtime” of a cosmetic product corresponds to the time during which the user can work on it during its application, in particular on the skin, and thus reflects the ease of application of the product. Playtime can play a key role in the effectiveness of a cosmetic care and/or make-up protocol. As an example, the technique of “contouring” is a cosmetic technique for sculpting the face, which requires roughly applying a light tint to the areas to be illuminated and a dark tint to the volumes to be refined and then merging the two tints with a finger or brush for a unified and natural rendering. The playtime of the tinted compositions used must be long enough to allow the different stages of making up: applying, merging different tints, blending, etc. Thus playtime can have a real impact on the ease of application, on the perception of a cosmetic product, and on the final rendering, in particular of a make-up.

It is therefore necessary to find polar volatile compounds which are favourable to effective dispersion, in all types of aqueous and/or oily formulas, of colorants irrespective of their nature or their surface, particularly with or without coating, and which also allow proper expression of the coloristic properties on the applied product, particularly in terms of homogeneity and coverage, while ensuring good sensory properties on application and sufficient playtime.

The term "coloristic properties on the applied product" is understood to mean both the make-up performance (colour, homogeneity, coverage) and the photoprotection performance according to the same criteria (colour, homogeneity, coverage), in particular as regards the inorganic pigments of the photoprotection or inorganic UV screening agents.

Formulators are thus in search of raw materials and/or systems for obtaining compositions whose applied form displays coverage and homogeneity and shows good playtime.

Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward meeting the global challenges.

It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and/or preparation processes and/or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of raw materials that at least partly are renewable and/or have a good naturalness index and/or are of natural origin and as far as possible of plant origin, while increasingly reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

It is an object of the present invention to provide preferably coloured cosmetic compositions which exhibit good properties, especially in terms of homogeneity, coverage, and sufficient playtime to guarantee, on use, a spreading quality and a sensory experience that are in accordance with the expectations of the user of these compositions.

The applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, that these objectives can be achieved with a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising, particularly in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of a polar solvent having a particular chemical structure and physicochemical properties with at least one colouring raw material, allowing the production of fluid to viscous cosmetic products having a good quality of colorant dispersion, good playtime, good homogeneity of the applied product and good coverage. Indeed, after application, these compositions leave a covering and homogeneous film-forming product. These compositions may also contain sustainable ingredients, thus making it possible to meet environmental challenges.

One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, particularly for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula C_nH_2nO₃ in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 (n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester (hereinafter "ester") or ether oxide (hereinafter "ether"); and

b) at least one pigmentary colorant.

The term “physiologically acceptable” refers to a medium compatible with keratin materials.

Another subject of the invention is a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or skin appendages.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably substantially free of silicone oil, or even silicone-free.

The term “substantially free of silicone” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% of silicone oil, preferably of silicone. The composition is preferably completely silicone-free. The term “silicone” is understood to mean any silicone compound.

Compound a)

The composition of the invention comprises at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic (at least partially cyclic) or non-cyclic, organic compound, of general formula C_nH_2nO₃ in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9; in other words, n is an integer between 6 and 9 inclusive, and said compound of formula C_nH_2nO₃ comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester or ether oxide.

The flash point of said compound a) is advantageously between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 35°C and 107°C, preferentially between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.

The flash point (FP) is the lowest temperature of a test sample of a product, brought to a barometric pressure of 101.3 kPa, at which the presentation of an ignition source causes ignition of its vapours after a short period of time, the flame propagating on the surface of the liquid, operating under the prescribed test conditions. If the heat source is removed, ignition stops. This control method follows the international standard ISO 3679: 2015 (Method A – flash no-flash test, closed cup equilibrium). A Setaflash Series 8 Active Cool Flash Point Tester instrument can be used.

The compound a) advantageously has a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly a vapour pressure of from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, particularly from 3 Pa to 2000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1000 Pa, and more particularly from 4 Pa to 500 Pa, preferably from 4 to 200 Pa, or even from 5 to 100 Pa, better still from 5 to 50 Pa. The vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

Advantageously, said compound a) is chosen from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably, said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, in this case, the index n of the compound a) is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 8 (n is between 6 and 8 inclusive). Preferably, said compound a) is then chosen from 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylideneglycerol), 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, said compound a) is chosen from hydroxy carboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 7 ≤ n ≤ 9 (n is between 7 and 9 inclusive). Preferably, said compound a) is thus chosen from propyl lactate, butyl glycolate, butyl lactate, isobutyl lactate, methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-butyl 3-hydroxypropionate, amyl lactate, isoamyl lactate, hexyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compound a) is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 1% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 2% to 90%, preferably from 2% to 80% by weight, preferably from 3% to 70%, preferably from 4% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, or even from 8% to 20%, by weight of compound a), based on the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.

Preferably, the compound a) is present in an amount of less than 80% by weight, preferably less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, or even less than 40% by weight, better still less than 30%, or even less than 20%, especially less than 15%, or even less than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.

Thus the solvents of the invention correspond, for example, to lactic acid or dioxolane derivatives. They may optionally contain rings.

By way of example, the following compounds a) may be stated:

Empirical formula	INCI name	Chemical structure	Flash point (°C) (suppliers)	Mw (g/mol)
C6H12O3	Isopropylideneglycerol		91	132
C6H12O3	Propyl lactate		57	132
C6H12O3	Butyl glycolate		74	132
C7H14O3	4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane		66-92	146
C7H14O3	(4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane		101	146
C7H14O3	Butyl lactate		69-79	146
C7H14O3	Isobutyl lactate		67	146
C7H14O3	Methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate		85	146
C7H14O3	tert-Butyl 3-hydroxypropionate		84	146
C8H16O3	Amyl lactate		79	160
C8H16O3	Isoamyl lactate		74-78	160
C9H18O3	Hexyl lactate		100	174

Examples of preferred lactates include, in particular, isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9).

As examples of compounds a), mention may also be made of isopropylidene glycerol, also known as 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane, or else 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol.

Butyl lactate and isopropylidene glycerol are among the preferred compounds a) of the invention.

The compound a) advantageously forms a polar volatile hydrocarbon solvent, particularly compatible with the pigmentary colorant b) according to the invention.

Other possible polar volatile hydrocarbon solvents

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional "polar volatile hydrocarbon solvent", different from the compound a) according to the invention.

For the purposes of the invention, "volatile solvent" means any solvent for the pigmentary colorant(s) b) according to the invention that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, preferably in less than 30 minutes, when applied as a thin film of 10 µm wet thickness, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at room temperature (20°C), notably having a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa. The vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

The term "polar hydrocarbon solvent" is understood to mean a solvent for the pigmentary colorant(s) b) according to the invention that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and ketone functions.

According to one preferential form, the one or more volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents are chosen from C2-C4 monoalcohols.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

An advantage of the composition of the invention is being able to limit the content of volatile alcohol(s), which is often the cause of discomfort (dryness, tingling) without losing any solubilizing power.

If the composition comprises linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s), the content thereof may advantageously be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 12%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 8%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, if the composition comprises linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s), the content thereof is such that the ratio by weight of the total amount of compound(s) a) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) other than the compound(s) a) is greater than 1, it being understood that the linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) are considered with the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvents other than the compound a).

Pigmentary colorants b)

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one pigmentary colorant. For the purposes of the present invention, the pigmentary colorant is chosen from pulverulent colorants such as inorganic pigments, pearlescent pigments and organic pigments, and also includes inorganic UV screening agents, as defined below.

The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour the resulting composition and/or deposit.

The colorants may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.

Inorganic pigments

According to one particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder, pearlescent pigments, monochromatic pigments; and mixtures thereof.

The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, ZrO₂ as a mixture with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, ZnS.

The size of the pigment that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to one particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

In the context of the present invention, the inorganic pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The (one or more) pigments which can be used in a composition according to the invention may be chosen respectively from coated and uncoated pigments, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, or according to a complementary embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated pigment.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the inorganic pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating. The latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from: metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, as for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and CI77499 black, CI77491 red and CI77492 yellow iron oxide pigments that are sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

According to one particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.

Mention may also be made, as inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention, of pearlescent pigments.

The term “pearlescent pigments” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably being produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which exhibit a colour effect via optical interference.

The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from pearl lustre pigments, such as titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, and also pearl lustre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also comprise mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants. Examples of pearlescent pigments that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. The pearlescent pigments may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking the effect of variability of colour with the angle of observation or else in response to a temperature change. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Of course, these various materials may be combined in order to afford two effects simultaneously, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

Organic pigments

According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigmentary colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds; and mixtures thereof.

The one or more organic pigments may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

The pigment may also be a lake.

The term "lake" means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

Inorganic photoprotective pigments or UV screening agents

The pigments used in accordance with the present invention may also be photoprotective pigments. These are metal oxide pigments that form inorganic UV screening agents.

More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in appendix VI, updated on 22/09/2021, of the European regulation on cosmetic products number 1223/2009, but are not limited to that list.

They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by Croda, Tayca and Merck.

The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, wax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate. The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated: with hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from the company Tayca, with silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company Ikeda, with silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the company Tayca, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from the company Croda, with alumina such as the products "TTO-55(A)®" from the company Ishihara, with alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT100Z®, MT-01®" from the company Tayca, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company Croda and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, with silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company Tayca, with alumina and aluminium laurate, with iron oxide and iron stearate, with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company Tayca, and with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,

- with silica and treated with a silicone, with alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TTO-55(S)®" from the company Ishihara, with triethanolamine, with stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55(C)®" from the company Ishihara, with sodium hexametaphosphate, TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate, with alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from Croda, TiO2 coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from Croda, TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, and TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide.

Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese.

Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Optisol^TM OTP-1 by the company Croda.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by the company Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name "Z-COTE®" by the company BASF; and those sold under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies. The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane; Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-C12 alkane with a dispersant); those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, notably of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

The inorganic UV screening agents can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pigmentary colorant chosen from inorganic pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

Fillers

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colourless or white and inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. In general, the fillers included in the compositions according to the invention are not pigmentary colorants.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from cellulose particles, silicas, starch, kaolin, clays, nylon or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and mixtures thereof.

The cellulose particles that may be used according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “spherical particles” is intended to mean solid or porous particles which have a circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

They preferably have an average size of less than 40 µm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 µm, more preferentially from 2 to 10 µm.

Among the cellulose particles that may be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of those sold by the company Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF® (D[50] = 4 µm), Cellulobeads D-5® (D[50] < 10 µm), Cellulobeads D-10® (D[50] < 15 µm) or Cellulobeads D-30® (D[50] < 30 µm).

Preferably, the optional fillers are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, representing 100%.

Oils

The composition of the invention advantageously comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, with which it forms a direct emulsion (O/W).

Alternatively, the oily phase may be the continuous phase of an inverse emulsion (W/O). Preferably, the oily phase is a continuous oily phase.

Said oily phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013x10⁵ Pa). It is organic, i.e. comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms, and water-immiscible.

The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

The total concentration of oily phase of the composition of the invention is advantageously within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98%, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “oil” denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10⁵ Pa).

“Immiscible” means that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is carried out by eye or by means of a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (by way of indication, 200 to 1000 rev/min), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

Volatile oils

The term “volatile oil” denotes an oil having a vapour pressure of greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably within the range from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

In contrast, the term “non-volatile oil” means an oil with a vapour pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

The volatile oil(s) are preferably present in a content within the range from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 2% to 70%, preferably from 3% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 8% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The volatile oil(s) are advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oil

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon-based oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.

The term “apolar hydrocarbon-based oil” means a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).

The term “polar hydrocarbon-based oil” denotes hydrocarbon-based oils mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions, i.e. oils having solely C, H and O.

As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®,

- C₆-C₁₆ linear alkanes, for example C₁₁-C₁₅ alkanes, alone or as mixtures, for instance hexane, decane, undecane or tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C₁₂) and n-tetradecane (C₁₄) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C₁₁) and of n-tridecane (C₁₃) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also mixtures of n-undecane (C₁₁) and of n-tridecane (C₁₃), such as Cetiol Ultimate® or Cetiol UT® from BASF; or else alkanes of plant origin, in particular from coconut, such as those sold under the name Vegelight Silk by Biosynthis, or else the mixtures of C₁₃-C₁₅ alkanes sold under the name Neossance Hemisqualane CN by Amyris;

- volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C₅-C₁₂ alkanes;

- branched C₈-C₁₆ esters, isohexyl neopentanoate;

- short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;

- volatile carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’1-O-CO-O-R’2 in which R’1 and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C₄-C₈ alkyl group, preferably a C₄-C₈ alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R’1 and R’2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

- volatile ether oils of formula R1OR2 in which R1 and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C₄-C₈ alkyl group, preferably a C₄-C₈ alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.

Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether and dicapryl ether, most particularly dicaprylyl ether.

Use may also be made of other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol T by Shell; or else volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE102008012457 from Cognis.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of hydrocarbon type (thus apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen) having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and particularly:

- branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, alone or as mixtures,

- linear alkanes, for example C₁₁-C₁₅ alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and

- mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are particularly chosen from C₆-C₁₆ alkanes and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as C₁₃-C₁₆ isoparaffin.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) are linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oils, which are volatile, particularly chosen from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and a mixture thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and/or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) of the invention are a mixture of C₉-C₁₂ alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C₉-C₁₂ alkanes. This mixture is particularly known under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthIs.

According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil(s) are at least partially of plant origin.

According to a preferred form of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, preferably less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, or even less than 15% by weight, or else less than 10% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another preferred form, the composition of the invention contains between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 2% and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 30% by weight, preferably between 4% and 25% by weight, or even between 5% and 20% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a volatile hydrocarbon oil in a particular weight ratio [volatile hydrocarbon oil]/[compound a)] of between 99/1 and 1/99, preferably between 95/5 and 5/95, preferably between 90/10 and 10/90, preferably between 85/15 and 20/80, preferably between 80/20 and 30/70, preferably between 75/25 and 40/60, preferably between 70/30 and 50/50.

Volatile silicone oil

The term “silicone oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and particularly at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The volatile silicone oils may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.

According to a specific form of the invention, use will be made of a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and of at least one volatile silicone oil, and more particularly of a mixture of isododecane and of dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention is free of any silicone oil.

Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil or oils are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular different from the compound a), preferably chosen from volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16, particularly C11-C15, linear alkanes, alone or in mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), particularly an undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); alkanes of plant origin, in particular of coconut, or else a mixture of C13-C15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil(s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane, linear or branched C₉-C₁₂ alkanes, and/or mixtures of n-undecane (C₁₁) and n-tridecane (C₁₃); preferably it comprises isododecane.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition can additionally comprise one or more non-volatile oils.

Non-volatile oils

The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition C1 or C’1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

Non-volatile silicone oils

The non-volatile silicone oil may particularly be chosen from the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.

These products are sold in particular under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyl Trimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or as mixtures.

Non-volatile fluoro oils

The term “fluoro oil” denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The fluoro oil can particularly be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, and also from the fluorosilicone oils and the fluoro silicones as described in EP-A-847752.

Apolar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils

The apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

- liquid paraffin,

- squalane, such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris,

- isoeicosane,

- saturated linear hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof, more particularly of C₁₅-C₂₈, such as the mixtures with for example the following INCI names: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range sold by the company ExxonMobil,

- decene/butene copolymers and butene/isobutene copolymers,

- and mixtures thereof.

Polar nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils

They may be chosen from:

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₀-C₂₆ fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, notably such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

- triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆, and particularly from C₈ to C₃₆, preferably from C₁₈ to C₃₆, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. By way of example, mention may particularly be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; plant oils such as wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;

- linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. As examples of such esters, mention may be made of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, cocoyl caprylate/caprate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;

- hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

- aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate;

- linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

- esters of C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);

- the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

- vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name); and

- mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils as defined previously, and mixtures thereof preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils as defined previously and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol as defined previously, more preferentially chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cocoyl caprylate/caprate and mixtures thereof, and better still denote isononyl isononanoate.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₀-C₂₆ fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms as described previously, in particular chosen from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as the reference Eutanol G sold by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆, and particularly from C₈ to C₃₆, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated as described previously, preferably chosen from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as the reference Palmester 3585 sold by KLK Oleo.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils as described previously, preferably chosen from mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C₁₅-C₂₈ hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils chosen from the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-C19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, the products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) c) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-C19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, mixtures having the INCI name C15-C19 Alkane, such as Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, and isononyl isononanoate.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are constituted of one or more non-volatile polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) as defined previously.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from dimethicones, such as the grade Belsil DM 5 Plus Dimethicone sold by Wacker, the reference Dowsil SH 200 C Fluid 10 CST sold by Dow Chemical or the reference Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST sold by Dow Chemical, or Phenyl Trimethicone such as the reference Dowsil SH 556 Fluid sold by Dow Chemical.

Preferably, when the non-volatile oil(s) are a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil preferably chosen from apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the optional non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.2% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 35%, preferably from 1% to 20%, more preferentially between 1% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

With preference, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, with preference in an amount by weight of less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, and preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “weight ratio”, denoted R, means the ratio of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oils (NVO), defined by:

R = [sum of masses of VO]/[sum of masses of NVO].

Preferably, R is such that 0 < R ≤ 10 000, more particularly 0.01 < R ≤ 1000; more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500; preferably 0.1 < R ≤ 100, preferably 0.2 < R ≤ 50, or even 0.5 < R ≤ 10.

Optional silicone(s)

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, of silicone.

The term “silicone” is understood to mean any silicone compound.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

The expression “substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. Preferably, the composition is totally free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. The expression “silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer” is understood to mean any silicone compound which is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably which is not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably which is not an MQ resin or an acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

The term “resin” is understood to mean a compound in which the structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.

The letter “M” represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO_1/2, the silicon atom being bonded to just one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter "D" means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO_2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter “T” represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO_3/2.

In the units M, D and T defined previously, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon-based radical (notably alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

Lastly, the letter "Q" means a tetrafunctional unit SiO_4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley & Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2 676 182, US 3 627 851, US 3 772 247, US 5 248 739 or US 5 082 706, US 5 319 040, US 5 302 685 and US 4 935 484.

The silicone resins of MQ type are, for example, the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1)₃SiO_1/2]_x(SiO_4/2)_y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group, Trimethyl siloxysilicate or phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, are distinguished in particular.

The silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organofunctional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is other than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-C28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the name INCI Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a radical containing an organofunction, such as an aminopropyl, aminopropylaminoethyl or aminopropylaminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25,25 Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers with a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and/or acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendent siloxane groups and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendent hydrocarbon-based chain, such as, for example, a pendent vinyl, methacrylic and/or acrylic group.

The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from polymers derived from apolar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one apolar silicone chain. The non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the brand names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), and FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. The term “substantially free of silicone” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight and preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. The composition is preferably completely silicone-free. According to this embodiment, the term “silicone” is understood to mean any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents other than the oils a) and alcohols b) defined according to the invention.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase having a composition as defined above.

According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, particularly an anhydrous oily composition, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally has an aqueous phase.

Advantageously, the total content of oily phase is within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients, such as water-soluble solvents.

A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 20°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Mention may in particular be made, among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol, C₃-C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase is preferably present in a total content by weight within the range of from 2% and 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field: active agents such as vitamins, active anti-ageing agents; UV screening agents different from the compound b); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

Optional surfactants

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic or ionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any surfactant.

The term “surfactant” means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. The surfactant(s) are amphiphilic molecules, which have two parts of different polarity, one part being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) which is apolar, the other part being hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water) which is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fatty chain, and the other water-miscible part is polar, and/or protic.

The term “ionic” means anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.

The term “fatty chain” means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to a person skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

When they are present, the one or more surfactants represent in total particularly from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still between 1% and 7% by weight of the composition.

Optional lipophilic thickeners

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, which may or may not have been hydrophobically treated, and from lipophilic clays, alone or as a mixture.

Silicas

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

Fumed silica

Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.

Silica aerogels

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

The aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

The term “hydrophobic silica” is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7 470 725.

Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201® and Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 120®.

Mention may also be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Lipophilic clays

The term “lipophilic clay” refers to any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

Clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure.

The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.

For example, use may be made of a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:

- a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec S.P.A;

- a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from the company Stéarinerie Dubois Fils, Miglyol Gel T® from the company Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from the company BYK Additives Inc.;

- a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialties;

- a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V®, Bentone® Gel PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialties; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS/Hectone CPS® or Creagel Bentone ID/Hectone ID® from the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, fatty acid, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid.

Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Form of the composition

The composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, or else an aqueous composition.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is a single-phase oily composition.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or of an oil-in-water emulsion, or optionally of a composition with several separate phases (such as a two-phase composition); preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

The term “water-in-oil emulsion” or W/O emulsion means a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase which are immiscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (described as continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

Formulation forms with an oily continuous phase are preferred in the case of dispersion of pigments according to the invention, which promotes their homogeneity and thus optimizes the coverage obtained for the film obtained after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for producing cosmetic products with fluid textures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic to viscous liquid, the G* modulus (viscoelastic modulus) of which is between 0.1 and 20 000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1000 Pa. The G* modulus is measured with a controlled stress rheometer and the values are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25°C.

Cosmetic applications

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

Thus, according to one sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously take the form of a base composition for make-up.

A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for making up the lips, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick or else of a gloss.

According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It can thus be a foundation, an eyeshadow or a blusher.

It may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skincare product, a sun protection product, a hygiene product, or else a hair shaping product, or a hair dyeing product; or else a nail varnish product.

Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

Throughout the patent application, the expression “comprises a” should be understood as meaning “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts indicated are in % by weight of starting materials relative to the total weight of the composition (% w/w), unless otherwise stated.

Examples

Preparation of a composition according to the invention and comparisons with comparative compositions

Preparation

The compositions according to the invention (4, 5, 9, 10, 12, 13, 16 and 17), denoted "Inv" (according to the invention), and the comparative compositions (1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 11, 14 and 15), denoted "HI" (outside the invention), were prepared by mixing the ingredients of the tables, respectively 1, 2 and 3 below, in the following manner. A (fixed) amount of pigment was weighed out into a bottle using a precision balance (Excellence Plus model from Mettler Toledo). Then a (fixed) amount of solvent was added to the bottle using a precision balance (Excellence Plus model from Mettler Toledo). The mixture obtained was stirred using the Vortex-Genie 2^TM vibrator-shaker (Scientific Industries), vibration force 8 for 1 minute.

Evaluation of dispersion quality

The pigment dispersion sample described above was shaken again using the Vortex-Genie 2^TM vibrator-shaker (Scientific Industries), vibration force 8 for 1 min. Then it was immediately transferred into a cylindrical glass cell adapted to carry out the transmission measurements (in %) using a Turbiscan Lab (Formulaction). The percentage transmission is the percentage of incident light passing through the sample.

The transmission value was taken at mid-height of the sample. The lower the transmission, the more it means that the sample is “opaque”, and therefore that pigment dispersion is good over the entire sample volume. The higher the transmission, the more there is sedimentation of pigments at the bottom of the sample.

Measurements were made at room temperature (20°C) with a programmed analysis at different times after sample preparation.

When standard deviations are indicated, they correspond to an average transmission value obtained on 2 different samples of each formulation.

Evaluation of the coverage and homogeneity of the applied products

The coverage and homogeneity of the applied products were evaluated by contrast ratio measurements after application of the solutions to contrast cards.

The products are spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) that allows both the speed of spreading and also the distance of spreading to be regulated. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the substrate on which the product is being spread does not move. Uncoated contrast cards with a black background and white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The wet spreading thickness is set at 50 µm, using the square spreader placed on the substrate so as to spread by levelling when the platform is set in motion. A weight of 960 g is added over the spreader during spreading. The spreading rate is set at 1”/sec, i.e. 2.54 cm/s. The films are dried for 24 h at 34°C and ambient humidity RH (50% RH) on a hot plate.

The colour is measured using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Measurement with contact makes it possible to guarantee the absence of parasitic light.

Settings chosen: Aperture 8 mm; uncertainty: 0.04; SCI/SCE measurement; d/8° geometry.

The colour measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of an applied product by calculating the contrast ratio (CR%), which increases in line with the coverage of the applied product: CR%=YFN / YFB x 100; where YFN and YFB

are the luminance values measured on the black background and the white background, respectively.

For each sample, 2 cards were prepared. On each card, 3 coverage measurements were performed. The coverage value indicated is therefore an average of 6 measurements.

The homogeneity of the applications of product is observed qualitatively, and can result in a numerical response through the change in variability of the coverage measurement. The more homogeneous the application of product, the smaller the standard deviation of the coverage.

In vitro evaluation of playtime

The playtime of the product corresponds to the time during which the consumer can work on it during its application and therefore reflects the ease of application of the product, especially before it becomes too dry.

This time is difficult to measure under in vivo conditions, owing to the thickness of very thin films (about 2 g/cm²), very fast evaporation kinetics and a strong impact of the spreading movement.

One way to evaluate the order of magnitude of this playtime in a measurable and repeatable way is to return to the kinetics of evaporation of the film on sufficiently thick films. By calculation, it is then possible to return to a drying time which would correspond to the in vivo drying time (2 mg/cm²).

The evaporation rate was measured gravimetrically in a ventilated glove box and at controlled temperature and humidity (30°C, relative humidity 50%). A balance, connected to a computer, measures the mass of the sample at each point in time. On the computer, the BalanceLink software records the data generated by the balance every 30 seconds. The evaporation kinetics correspond to the slope of the curve representing the mass lost over time for initial applications of formula of about 58+/-12 mg/cm².

By calculation, using the evaporation kinetics of the compositions, the time required to reach 70% of the drying of the formulas was estimated, for wet applications of 2 mg/cm².

Calculated Tdrying (70%, 2 mg/cm²) = 2/(evaporation rate)*0.7

Results for pigment dispersion quality

The following compositions were prepared and characterized in terms of dispersion quality by the transmission measurements noted in the following table.

INCI name (Trade name and Manufacturer)	1 (HI)	2 (HI)	3 (HI)	4 (Inv)	5 (Inv)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (NAI-TAO-77891 from Miyoshi Kasei)	2	2	2	2	2
Ethyl lactate (PURASOLV EL from PURAC)	98	-	-	-	-
Ethanol (CARGILL 66212)	-	98	-	-	-
Isododecane (INEOS)	-	-	98	-	-
Butyl lactate (PURASOLV BL from PURAC)	-	-	-	98	-
Isopropylidene glycerol (AUGEO CRYSTAL from SOLVAY)	-	-	-	-	98
Transmission after 10h, %	5.2	24.3	52.3	0.2	0.1
Transmission after 13h, %	6.1	34.3	54.2	2.6	0.5

The examples above show that the quality of dispersion of the NAI (aluminium stearoyl glutamate) surface-treated pigments is better for the solvents and compositions of the invention (examples 4 and 5) than for the solvents and compositions not in accordance with the invention (comparatives 1, 2 and 3).

INCI name	6 (HI)	7 (HI)	8 (HI)	9 (Inv)	10 (Inv)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from VENATOR)	2	2	2	2	2
Ethyl lactate	98	-	-	-	-
Ethanol	-	98	-	-	-
Isododecane	-	-	98	-	-
Butyl lactate	-	-	-	98	-
Isopropylidene glycerol	-	-	-	-	98
Transmission after 13h, %	45.5 ± 3.6	26.4 ± 0.9	62.2 ± 1.6	23.9 ± 4.7	0.01 ± 0
Transmission after 24h, %	68.6 ± 1.2	44.2 ± 0.2	63.1 ± 2.4	50.3 ± 8.6	0.04 ± 0.01

The examples above show that the quality of dispersion of uncoated pigments (here untreated anatase titanium dioxide (CI: 77891)) in the solvents of the invention (compositions 9 and 10) is very good, with transmission values which remain low. The pigment dispersion quality is excellent for isopropylidene glycerol, which comes out significantly better than all the other solvents tested, both at 13h and at 24h. The quality of dispersion of the pigments by butyl lactate is comparable to that of ethanol, and significantly better than that obtained in ethyl lactate or isododecane.

The examples of compositions 4, 5, 9 and 10 comprising solvents as defined according to the invention allow a good quality of dispersion of the pigments, whether they are surface-treated or untreated.

Results for homogeneity and coverage

The following compositions were prepared and characterized in terms of coverage and homogeneity.

INCI name (Trade name and Manufacturer)	11 (HI)	12 (Inv)	13 (Inv)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (NAI-TAO-77891 from Miyoshi Kasei)	10	10	10
Ethyl lactate (PURASOLV EL from PURAC)	90	-	-
Butyl lactate (PURASOLV BL from PURAC)	-	90	-
Isopropylidene glycerol (AUGEO CRYSTAL from SOLVAY)	-	-	90
CR (%)	13.8	21.8	19.5
Standard deviation of CR	2.1	1.5	1.1
Homogeneity to the eye	Inhomogeneous	Homogeneous	Homogeneous

Examples 12 and 13 show that the coverage of the applied products with the solvents of the invention is significantly better than that obtained for ethyl lactate.

Similarly, the homogeneity is better for the solvents of the invention. This is seen qualitatively to the eye, and quantitatively through the standard deviations of the CR, which are smaller for the solvents of the invention.

Estimation of the order of magnitude of the playtime

For each of the 90/10 solvent/untreated TITANIUM pigment mixtures, the result of the estimated playtime, as calculated according to the method described above, is given in the following table.

INCI name	14 (Outside the invention)	15 (Outside the invention)	16 (Invention)	17 (Invention)
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from VENATOR)	10	10	10	10
Ethyl lactate	90	-	-	-
Ethanol	-	90	-	-
Butyl lactate	-	-	90	-
Isopropylidene glycerol	-	-	-	90
Calculated Tdrying (70%, 2 mg/cm2) (min)	3.6	3.2	16.6	33
Standard deviation	0.2	0.4	1.1	4.1

Examples 16 and 17 show that the order of magnitude of the playtime for dispersion of pigments in the solvents of the invention is significantly longer than that for the dispersion with ethanol or ethyl lactate, and is compatible with the time needed for pleasing and quality make-up.

Examples of anhydrous oily compositions

The following two compositions, 18 (outside the invention) and 19 (according to the invention), containing an oily phase, were prepared.

INCI name	18 (Outside the invention)	19 (Invention)
ISODODECANE	47	47
UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (Cetiol Ultimate® - BASF)	20	20
DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (Bentone 38 VCG Rheological Additive® - Elementis)	3	3
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE	10	10
ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL	20	-
BUTYL LACTATE	-	20
TOTAL (% by mass)	100	100
Evaporated mass at T5min, mg/cm2	7.65 ± 0.68	2.88 ± 0.09
Evaporated mass at T10min, mg/cm2	11.55 ± 0.77	5.94 ± 0.04
Evaporated mass at T20min, mg/cm2	17.94 ± 0.88	11.81 ± 0.07
Evaporated mass at T30min, mg/cm2	23.08 ± 0.98	17.28 ± 0.19

Procedure

[1] Volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils (undecane/tridecane and isododecane mixture) were mixed in a beaker using a rotor-stator for 5 minutes at 500 revolutions/min.

[2] The hectorite was sprinkled in with stirring using a rotor-stator at 1200 revolutions/min and the mixture is then left stirring for 15 minutes.

[3] The pigment was sprinkled in with stirring under the rotor-stator at 2000 revolutions/min and the mixture was then left stirring for 15 minutes.

[4] The temperature of the bulk material was checked: If the temperature increased, the beaker was placed in a cold water bath.

[5] Lastly, the volatile polar solvent (ethanol or butyl lactate) was added at room temperature (less than 30°C) with rotor-stator stirring at 1000 revolutions/min. The mixture was again left stirring for 5 min and was then packaged.

Evaluation of the evaporation rate of the compositions

Protocol:

The evaporation rate was measured gravimetrically in a ventilated glove box and at controlled temperature and humidity (30°C, relative humidity 50%). A balance, connected to a computer, measures the mass of the sample at each point in time. On the computer, the BalanceLink software records the data generated by the balance every 30 seconds. The evaporation kinetics correspond to the slope of the curve representing the mass lost over time for initial applications of formula of about 0.51 ± 0.02 g, or about 59 ± 2 mg/cm².

Results:

Composition example 19 with butyl lactate shows that the evaporated mass is systematically lower than that of example 18 with ethanol, which leaves more time required for pleasing and quality make-up. The playtime of composition 19 according to the invention is higher than that of composition 18 outside the invention.

Examples of compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase

The following two compositions 20 (outside the invention) and 21 (according to the invention), containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase, were prepared.

INCI name	20 (Outside the invention)	21 (Invention)
ISODODECANE	50	50
ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL	20	-
BUTYL LACTATE	-	20
Water	20	20
TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE	10	10
TOTAL (% by mass)	100	100
Visual homogeneity at T0	Inhomogeneous (phase separation)	Homogeneous
Homogeneity after stirring at T24h	Inhomogeneous (phase separation)	Homogeneous

Procedure:

[1] In a beaker, mix the isododecane and the volatile polar solvent (ethanol or butyl lactate) using a rotor-stator for 5 minutes at 500 revolutions/min.

[2] Slowly add the water to the oily phase with stirring (about 2500 revolutions/min), leave stirring for 10-15 min.

[3] Introduce the pigment slowly (over 5 min) with stirring at 1500 revolutions/min, leave stirring for 15 minutes and then package.

Results of visual observation of the homogeneity of compositions 20 and 21:

According to the observations noted in the preceding table, composition example 21 with butyl lactate forms a homogeneous mixture after manufacture and becomes homogeneous again after stirring at T24h. Composition example 20 with ethanol is inhomogeneous immediately after manufacture and inhomogeneous after stirring at T24h under the same conditions.

Claims (22)

1. Cosmetic composition, particularly for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
   a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula C_nH_2nO₃ in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from ester or ether; and
   b) at least one pigmentary colorant.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein the flash point of said compound a) is between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 35°C and 107°C, preferentially between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the vapour pressure of said compound a) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is in the range of from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, particularly from 3 Pa to 2000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1000 Pa, and more particularly from 4 Pa to 500 Pa, preferably from 4 to 200 Pa, or even from 5 to 100 Pa, better still from 5 to 50 Pa.
4. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein said compound a) is chosen from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably, said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to Claim 4, wherein the index n of the compound a) is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 8; preferably, said compound a) is chosen from 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylideneglycerol), 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein said compound a) is chosen from hydroxy carboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 7 ≤ n ≤ 9; preferably, said compound a) is chosen from propyl lactate, butyl glycolate, butyl lactate, isobutyl lactate, methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-butyl 3-hydroxypropionate, amyl lactate, isoamyl lactate, hexyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound a) is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 1% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 2% to 90%, preferably from 2% to 80% by weight, preferably from 3% to 70% by weight, preferably from 4% to 60% by weight, preferably from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, or even from 8% to 20% by weight of compound a), relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary colorant is an inorganic pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder, pearlescent pigments, monochromatic pigments; and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary colorant is an organic pigment chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds; and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to Claim 8 or 9, wherein the pigmentary colorant is chosen from inorganic pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment or pigments are uncoated and/or coated, preferably coated with at least one compound chosen from: metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary colorant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably in a content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 12% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to Claim 13, wherein the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of compound a) to the total amount of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is greater than 1.
15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil, where preferably the weight ratio denoted R, of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) (NVO), defined by: R = [sum of the masses of VO]/[sum of the masses of NVO], is such that 0 < R ≤ 10 000, more particularly 0.01 < R ≤ 1000, more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500, preferably 0.1 < R ≤ 100, preferably 0.2 < R ≤ 50, or even 0.5 < R ≤ 10.
16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional volatile hydrocarbon oil different from the compound a), chosen preferably from volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16, particularly C11-C15, linear alkanes, alone or in mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), particularly an undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); alkanes of plant origin, in particular of coconut, or else a mixture of C13-15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.
17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oil, preferably silicone; preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free.
18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, at a content within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase, at a content within the range from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, or else an aqueous composition.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive chosen from: active agents such as vitamins and active anti-ageing agents; UV screening agents different from the compound b); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.
22. Method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or skin appendages, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the skin and/or skin appendages of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 21.