WO2026002565A1 - Structured cleansing composition with suspending polymer, anionic surfactant and a co-surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

A cleansing composition comprising: a) a suspending polymer; b) a surfactant system comprising an anionic surfactant and a co-surfactant; and c) water; wherein the suspending polymer is selected from i) a homopolymer defined by Formula (1): wherein R group is an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R1 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R2 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and R3 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and wherein y is from 50 to 1000, preferably from 100 to 750, more preferably from 200 to 600 and x is 1 or 0; and ii) a copolymer defined by Formula (2): wherein R1, R2, R3, x and y are as defined for Formula (1); R4 is selected from the same definitions as R2 in Formula (1) and R5 is selected from the same definitions as R3 in Formula (1); and R4 may be the same as R2 in Formula (1) or R4 may be different from R2 in Formula (1) and; R5 may be the same as R3 in Formula (1) or R5 may be different from R3 in Formula (1) and; wherein the percent weight for weight of y:z is within the range of from 100 to ), excluding homopolymers; and wherein the polymer is selected from a linear polymer, a star polymer, a branched polymer and a crosslinked polymer.

Description

STRUCTURED CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH SUSPENDING POLYMER , ANIONIC SURFACTANT AND A CO-SURFACTANT

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to cleansing compositions comprising a naturally derived polymer for suspending ingredients in cosmetic compositions.

Background of the Invention

Cleansing compositions having beneficial ingredients suspended are desirable to the consumer seeking to deliver benefit to, for example, their hair. Shampoo formulations have suspended materials that typically impart, or contribute to, certain user benefits, including visual product aesthetics, various active effects and encapsulation/release of separate phases during use.

To be acceptable to consumers, such aqueous compositions desirably exhibit both an appealing look and feel. Such suspensions, however, in complex aqueous formulations for rinse-off applications in home and personal care applications present significant challenges.

Notwithstanding, the benefits associated with the incorporation of cosmetic ingredients suspended in aqueous compositions, their incorporation creates a variety of complications. For example, cosmetic ingredients typically have a density disparate from the continuous phase of the composition. This density mismatch can lead to compositional instability. In systems containing insoluble materials with a density less than that of the continuous phase, the cosmetic ingredients tend to float to the top surface of the continuous phase (i.e. , creaming). In systems containing insoluble materials with a density greater than that of the continuous phase, the insoluble materials tend to sink to the bottom of the continuous phase (i.e., settling).

In order to address these issues, it is common practice to use suspending polymers to provide adequate suspension of ingredients in consumer compositions. These polymers, for example acrylates, are typically petrochemically derived and are effective at delivering excellent structure, functionality and performance across a wide range of compositions. There is now much interest in replacing polymers that are petrochemically derived with suspending agents that are sustainable and biodegradable. WO1 3020820 BASF describes associative polyurethane copolymer thickeners which comprise hyperbranched polymers for use in cosmetic preparations.

LIS2011033411 and US8673985 disclose organosiloxane polycarbonate copolymers for home and personal care applications.

WO20234576 discloses resin compositions for use in the fabrication of materials with tunable mechanical and/or chemical properties, and methods of fabricating the same. A photocurable resin composition comprises a prepolymer, a first photoinitiator, and a second distinct photoinitiator, the prepolymer comprising a repeating unit, the repeating unit comprising a first functional group and a distinct second functional group, the first photoinitiator having a first absorption wavelength to functionalise the first functional group, and the second distinct photoinitiator having a second absorption wavelength to functionalise the second functional group.

WO20234576 discloses resin compositions comprising a prepolymer and optionally one or more diluent(s), the prepolymer comprising repeating units having at least one carbonate linkage and at least one unsaturated side-chain, the optional diluent(s) comprising at least one unsaturated side-chain, wherein either or both of the prepolymer and the at least one optional diluent(s) comprises at least one 0=C- N linkage, preferably a urethane linkage. The compositions have application as biocompatible materials for use in the body.

US 2011/182843 discloses and exemplifies the use of a hyperbranched polyesteramide comprising at least one secondary amide bond and having at least one quarternized amine end- group in aqueous cleansing compositions. The compositions are suited for increasing the volume of hair and providing styling attributes and increased wet-combability of hair.

However, whilst natural polymers, for example citrus fibres, are biodegradable they are often limited to specific functionality and lack the flexibility and breadth of application of the traditional materials. Despite the prior art there remains a need for compositions having improved suspension of ingredients, that are sustainable and biodegradable.

Surprisingly, we have now found that a composition comprising a biodegradable polymer having specific side chain architecture, as described herein, has improved visual properties for a wide range of variants and suspended ingredients. The polymer can be tailored by molecular weight, end group functionality and architecture to provide compositions having excellent formulation flexibility in a wide range and type of suspended components.

Definition of the Invention

Accordingly, and in a first aspect there is provided a cleansing composition comprising: a) a suspending polymer; b) a surfactant system comprising an anionic surfactant and a co-surfactant; and c) water; wherein the suspending polymer is selected from i) a homopolymer defined by Formula (1): Formula (1) wherein R group is an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R1 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R2 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and R3 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and wherein y is from 50 to 1000, preferably from 100 to 750, more preferably from 200 to 600 and x is 1 or 0; and ii) a copolymer defined by Formula (2): Formula (2) wherein R1, R2, R3, x and y are as defined for Formula (1); R4 is selected from the same definitions as R2 in Formula (1) and R5 is selected from the same definitions as R3 in Formula (1); and

R4 may be the same as R2 in Formula (1) or R4 may be different from R2 in Formula (1) and; R5 may be the same as R3 in Formula (1) or R5 may be different from R3 in Formula (1) and; wherein the percent weight for weight of y:z is within the range of from 100 to ), excluding homopolymers; and wherein the polymer is selected from a linear polymer, a star polymer, a branched polymer and a crosslinked polymer.

A second aspect of the invention provides a method of treating hair or skin with a cleansing composition of the first aspect, comprising the step of applying the composition to the hair or skin.

A third aspect of the invention provides a use of a suspending polymer as defined herein as a suspension agent in aqueous cleansing compositions.

Detailed Description of the Invention

The suspending polymer

The polymer may be in the form of different structural architectures. Preferably, the polymer may be linear, star shaped, branched or crosslinked, more preferably the polymer is star shaped or branched. The polymer can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. The polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

Where the polymer is a homopolymer it is defined by the Formula (1): Formula (1) wherein R group is an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R1 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R2 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and R3 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and wherein y is from 50 to 1000, preferably from 100 to 750, more preferably from 200 to 600. x is 1 or 0.

Any or all of R1 , R2, and/or R3 may be a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aromatic moiety or group, an aliphatic ring, an allyl ether, carboxylic acid groups and esters and amides thereof (for example an acrylate, a modified acrylate and/or an allyl ester). R1 , R2, and/or R3 may comprise a spirocyclic aliphatic ring, and/or a bridged ring, e.g. a norbornene ring.

The alkyl group is preferably selected from a hydroxyl group, an amine group, a nitro group, an ether group, a carboxylic acid, an amide, a cyano group, trifluoromethyl, an ester, an alkene an alkyne, an azide, an azo, an isocyanate, a ketone, and/or an aldehyde, and mixtures thereof. The substituents may be another aromatic group, for example, R1, R2, and/or R3 may comprise a phenyl substituted with a further phenyl ring. In embodiments, the R1, R2, and/or R3 group may be a phenyl ring, substituted with a second phenyl ring, which in turn is substituted with a third phenyl ring.

Suitable alkyl groups include C1 to C22, preferably C1 to C18 variants, for example methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and so on, and isomers thereof.

Where R1 , R2, and/or R3 is an aromatic moiety or group, it is preferably selected from an aromatic hydrocarbon group, an aromatic heterocyclic group and mixtures thereof. Preferred aromatic hydrocarbon groups may be selected from a phenyl ring, a substituted phenyl ring and mixtures thereof. There may be one, two, three, four or five additional substituents on the phenyl ring. The substituents are bonded directly to the phenyl ring, and may be selected from fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, a hydroxyl group, an amine group, a nitro group, an alkoxy group, a carboxylic acid, an amide, a cyano group, a trifluoromethyl, an ester, an alkene an alkyne, an azide, an azo, an isocyanate, a ketone, an aldehyde, an alkyl group consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, or a hydrocarbon ring, an alkyl group consisting of other heteroatoms such as fluorine, chlonne, bromine, iodine, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and mixtures thereof.

In embodiments wherein R1 , R2, and/or R3 is an aromatic moiety or group, the aromatic group may be a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon, for example, naphthalene, anthracene, phenanthrene, tetracene, chrysene, triphenylene, pyrene, pentacene, benzo[a]pyrene, corannulene, benzo[ghi]perylene, coronene, ovalene, fullerene, and/or benzo[c]fluorene. The R group may be bonded to the triphenylene derivative by any isomer of the polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons described, for example, 1-napthalene, 2-napthalene, 2-anthracene, 9-anthracene. The polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon group may be substituted with other moieties such as aryl groups, alkyl groups, heteroatoms, and/or other electron withdrawing or electron donating groups. In embodiments wherein R1 , R2, and/or R3 an aromatic heterocyclic group, the heterocyclic group may be a four membered ring, a five membered ring, a six membered ring, a seven membered ring, an eight membered ring, a nine membered ring, a ten membered ring, or a fused ring. Prefearably, the heterocyclic group may be furan, benzofuran, isobenzofuran, pyrrole, indole, isoindole, thiophene, benzothiophene, benzo[c]thiophene, imidazole, benzimidazole, purine, pyrazole, indazole, oxazole, benzoxazole, isoxazole, benzisoxazole, thiazole, benzothiazole, pyridine, quinoline, isoquinoline, pyrazine, quinoxaline, acridine, pyrimidine, quinozoline, pyndazine, cinnoline, 5 phthalazine, 1 ,2,3-triazine, 1 ,2,4-triazine, 1 ,3,5- triazine pyridine or thiophene.

In embodiments wherein R1, R2, and/or R3 is an aliphatic group or moiety, it may be selected from an n-alkyl chain or a branched alkyl chain, either of which optionally comprising unsaturated moieties, and/or heteroatoms, for example, fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, oxygen, sulphur and nitrogen. The n-alkyl and/or branched alkyl chain may comprise unsaturated portions, comprising alkenes, or aromatic moieties.

R1 , R2, and/or R3 may comprise a carboxylate, carboxylic acid, or ester or amide derivative thereof.

Most preferably, R2 and R3 are selected from aliphatic moieties and carboxylate groups.

Preferably one of R2 or R3 is an aliphatic group and the other is a carboxylate. Preferably R2 is selected from an n-alkyl chain, most preferably methyl or ethyl. Preferably R3 is selected from an acid, alcohol or allyl containing group. The acid may have a protecting group.

Where the polymer is a copolymer it is defined by the Formula (2): Formula (2)

Wherein R1 , R2, R3, x and y are as defined above. Wherein the percent weight for weight of y:z is within the range of from 100 to 0, for example 99.9 to 0.1, excluding homopolymers.

Wherein R4 can be selected from the same definitions as R2 as given above. R4 may be the same as R2 or R2 and R4 may be different.

Wherein R5 can be selected from the same definitions as R3 as given above. R5 may be the same as R3 or R3 and R5 may be different.

In the linear polymers of the invention, preferably R1 is hydrogen or an aromatic group. Most preferably R1 is hydrogen or 4-methoxy-benzyl.

In the branched polymers of the invention, preferably R1 is hydrogen or an aromatic group. Most preferably R1 is hydrogen or 4-methoxy-benzyl. Branched polymers are formed using an inimer where R3 (in the case of a homopolymer) or R5 (in the case of a copolymer) is an alcohol group. Preferably the alcohol functionality is introduced by reaction of an allyl group with a thiolalcohol. More preferably the thioalcohol is an aliphatic thioalcohol. Most preferably the thiolalcohol is 2-mercapto-ethanol.

The star polymers of the invention preferably comprise an R1 that is aliphatic. Preferably the star polymer has “n” arms, where n is preferably 4 or 6.

Most preferably R1 is pentaerythritol or dipentaerythritol.

Preferably, the suspending polymer for use in the aqueous cleansing compositions of the invention may be a homopolymer of an acid containing monomer. For example, 5-methyl-1,3- dioxane-2-one-5-carboxylic acid. Additionally or alternatively, the polymer may be a homopolymer of an inimer, for example 5-((3-((2-hydroxyethyl)thio)propoxy)methyl)-5-methyl- 1 ,3-dioxan-2-one. Additionally or alternatively, the polymer may be a homopolymer of an allyl containing monomer, for example 5-[(allyloxy)methyl]-5-ethyl-1,3-dioxan-2-one. Additionally or alternatively, the polymer may comprise a copolymer of an acid monomer and an inimer, for example 5-methyl-1 ,3-dioxane-2-one-5-carboxylic acid and 5-((3-((2- hydroxyethyl)thio)propoxy)methyl)-5-methyl-1,3-dioxan-2-one.

Preferably, the suspending polymer for use in the aqueous cleansing compositions of the invention may be further modified with up to 10 wt% of structural units of a diamino crosslinking component, preferably 0 to 10 wt %, more preferably, with 0 to 5 wt%, still more preferably with 2.5 wt% even more preferably, the suspending polymer for use in the aqueous cleansing compositions of the invention contains less than the detectable limit of structural units of diamino crosslinking component.

Any suitable diamino crosslinking component may be used to provide any structural units of diamino crosslinking component in the suspending polymer for use in the aqueous cleansing compositions of the invention. Structural units of diamino crosslinking component may include for example those derived from aliphatic chains that optionally contain heteroatoms (e.g. ethylenediamine, hexamethylene diamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, bis-(3-aminopropyl)- methylamine); polyethers (e.g. diethylene glycol bis(3-aminopropyl) ether, poly(ethylene glycol) diamine with average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10,000 Da).

The Cleansing Composition

The cleansing composition comprises a suspending polymer as described above.

Preferably, the cleansing composition is selected from a shampoo, body wash, face cleanser, hand wash.

More preferably the cleansing composition is selected from a hair shampoo, a body wash, a hand wash and a face cleanser. Most preferably, the cleansing composition is a shampoo or a body wash.

Preferably, the cleansing composition comprises an amount of suspending polymer of from 0.1 to 2 wt %, preferably from 0.2 to 1 ,5 wt %, most preferably from 0.25 to 1 wt %, by weight of total composition.

Cleansing compositions of the invention are generally aqueous, i.e. they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.

Suitably, a shampoo composition in accordance with the invention will comprise from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 92% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants are compounds which have hydrophilic and hydrophobic portions that act to reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solutions they are dissolved in. Cleansing compositions according to the invention will generally comprise one or more cleansing surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. The cleansing surfactant may be chosen from anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic compounds and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a primary anionic surfactant will be present in combination with a co-surfactant, which is preferably amphoteric or zwitterionic.

The total amount of cleansing surfactant in a cleansing composition for use in the invention is generally from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, more preferably from 4 to 25% by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Anionic cleansing surfactants include; alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, N- alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, acyl amino acid based surfactants, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl taurates, acyl glutamates, alkyl glycinates and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups in the preceding list generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

Optionally, non-ionic cleansing surfactants may be included; aliphatic (Cs - Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other representative cleansing surfactants include mono- or dialkyl alkanolamides (examples include coco mono-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide) and alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Plantapon 1200 and Plantapon 2000 ex BASF. Other sugar-derived surfactants, which can be included in compositions for use in the invention include the C10-C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

Preferred surfactants may include amphoteric or zwitterionic cleansing surfactants including; alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. The cleansing composition comprises a co-surfactant. Preferably the co-surfactant is selected from a zwitterionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic co-surfactants include alkyl amine oxides (for example lauryl amine oxide); alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines; alkyl amphoacetates (for example sodium cocoamphoacetate); alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates; alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic co-surfactant is selected from alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl hydroxysultaines, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxy sultaines, and mixtures thereof.

Most preferred examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in the cleansing compositions of the invention include lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and mixtures thereof.

A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic co-surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine and lauryl hydroxysultaine.

The zwitterionic or amphoteric co-surfactant is preferably present in an amount of from 1 to 10 wt %, preferably 1.5 to 9 wt %, more preferably 2 to 9 wt %, based on the weight of the total composition.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 50 to 98, preferably 60 to 95 wt %, most preferably 70 to 90 wt % water by weight of the total composition.

Concentrated cleansing compositions may comprise less water.

Preferably the pH range of the cleansing composition is from 3.5 to 9, more preferably from 4 to 8, most preferably from 4.2 to 7. Other Ingredients

A cleansing composition of the invention may contain further optional ingredients to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability. Examples of such ingredients include, for example, fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents (for examples organic acids, sodium hydroxide), pearlescers, opacifiers, preservatives, antimicrobials, structurants, solvents, feel modifying polymers. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at an amount of up to 5% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

Typical cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions for use in the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate, sodium pareth sulphate, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate.

Preferred cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3, preferably 2 to 3, most preferably 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3, preferably 2 to 3, most preferably 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate.

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric cleansing surfactants may also be suitable, preferably where the primary to secondary surfactant ratio is between 1 :1 - 10:1 , more preferably 2:1 - 9:1 and most preferably 3:1 - 8:1 , based on the inclusion weight of the cleansing surfactant in the shampoo composition.

Inorganic Electrolyte

The cleansing compositions of the invention preferably comprise an inorganic electrolyte. Suitable inorganic electrolytes for use in the invention include metal chlorides (such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, zinc chloride, ferric chloride and aluminum chloride) and metal sulphates (such as sodium sulphate and magnesium sulphate). The inorganic electrolyte is used to provide viscosity to the composition. Examples of preferred inorganic electrolytes for use in the invention include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulphate and mixtures thereof, most preferably sodium chloride.

Mixtures of any of the above described materials may also be suitable.

Where present, the level of inorganic electrolyte in the cleansing compositions of the invention ranges from 0.1 to 3%, preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% (by total weight of the composition).

It is intended that the inorganic electrolyte is distinct from any inorganic electrolytes that may be present in the raw materials of the invention, as “carry over”.

The viscosity of the cleansing composition suitably ranges from 1,000 to 50,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,000 to 25,000, more preferably from 2,000 to 25,000 mPa.s, when measured at 25 degrees C and 4s-7, using sandblasted 40mm parallel plates, on a Wingspan rheometer (TA instruments).

At these ranges the cleansing composition is pourable yet thick enough to satisfy the consumer desire for thick compositions.

The isotropic micellar phase cleansing composition is transparent or translucent, preferably transparent.

A suitable method of assessing transparency is to measure turbidity. UV-vis spectrometry may be used to determine the turbidity of the formulation. An example of a suitable spectrophotomer is a Jasco V-650 spectrophotometer.

Translucency (or turbidity) in a liquid product is due to suspended or colloidal particles that cause light to be scattered rather than transmitted in straight lines through the sample.

Turbidity may be calculated using the equation, where turbidity is 2.3 multiplied by absorbance divided by the path length of the sample, i.e. Turbidity = (2.3 x A/L); where A is the absorbance measured from the sample at 750 nm and L is the path length. Preferably a path length of 1.0 cm is used. A composition is said to be transparent when the turbidity is lower than 1 cm^-1, preferably lower than 0.5 cm^-1, more preferably lower than 0.4 cm^-1, even more preferably lower than 0.25 cm^-1 most preferably lower than 0.1 cm^-1, as measured using a UV/visible spectrophotometer and applying the equation turbidity = (2.3*A/L), where A is the absorbance measured from the sample at 750 nm and L is the path length.

Preservative

The cleansing compositions of the invention preferably comprise a preservative. Preferred preservatives include sodium benzoate and caprylyl glycol.

Where present, the preservative is preferably present in an amount of from 0.01 to 2 wt %, more preferably 0.01 to 1 wt %, most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt %, by total weight of the composition. pH adjuster

The cleansing compositions for use in the invention preferably comprise a pH adjusting agent. Suitable examples include organic acids and sodium hydroxide.

Optionally, a shampoo composition in accordance the invention may contain further ingredients, (non-limiting examples of which are described below) to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability.

Cationic polymers and deposition polymers

Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a cleansing composition of the invention for enhancing conditioning performance.

Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (M_w) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100 000 and 3 million daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 6 meq/g, preferably 0.2 to 3.0 meq/g. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable (non-limiting examples of) cationic polymers include: cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (PDADMAC) and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in WO95/22311). Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions for use in the invention include monomers of the formula:

A-O-[R-N⁺(R¹)(R²)(R³)X-], wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R¹, R² and R³ independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e. , the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). Examples of such materials include the polymer LR and JR series from Dow, generally referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14 and JAGUAR C17.

Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.

Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition for use in the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.02 to 1%, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.8% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition. Silicone

The cleansing compositions of the invention can contain emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent, which is preferably not hydrophobically modified.

Suitable silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the cleansing compositions of the invention are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Preferably, the silicone is selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof. Also preferred are blends of amino-functionalised silicones with dimethicones.

The internal phase viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair cleansing composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst at 25 °C the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, ideally at least 1 ,000,000 cst. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 10⁹ cst for ease of formulation.

Emulsified silicones for use in the cleansing compositions of the invention will typically have a D90 silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 micron, ideally from 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size (D50) of 0.15 micron are generally termed microemulsions.

Silicone particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC2-1865 available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions /microemulsions of dimethiconol. Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.

A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in compositions of the invention are amino functional silicones. By "amino functional silicone" is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation "amodimethicone". A preferred amodimethicone is available from Dow Corning as DC 7134.

Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166 and DC2-8566 (all ex Dow Corning). Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-0 530 974. A preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt.

Also suitable are emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant.

Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC939 Cationic Emulsion and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning).

The total amount of silicone is preferably from 0.1 wt % to 10 wt % of the total composition more preferably from 0.1 wt % to 5 wt %, most preferably 0.25 wt % to 3 wt % is a suitable level.

The cleansing compositions of the present invention may include an appearance modifier to improve visual appearance and/or consumer appeal of the product. Most preferably the appearance modifier is a pearlescer selected from mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate) and mixtures thereof.

Pearlescer

The compositions of the present invention preferably include a pearlescer to improve visual appearance and/or consumer appeal of the product. Most preferably the pearlescer is selected from mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica, ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate) and mixtures thereof.

Nonionic Surfactants

One or more nonionic surfactants may be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention.

Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5, 1 , 1 .5 or 2% by wt. and at levels as high as 6, 8, 10 or 12% by wt. The nonionics which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C6 C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (C8- C18) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxide, and the like.

Preferred nonionic surfactants include fatty acid/alcohol ethoxylates having the following structures a) HOCH₂(CH₂)_n(CH₂CH₂O)xH or b) HOOC(CH₂)_m(CH₂CH₂O)yH; where m, n are independently <18; and x, y are independently >1. preferably m, n are independently 6 to 18; x, y are independently 1 to 30; c) HOOC(CH₂)j-CH=CH (CH₂)k(CH₂CH₂O)_zH; where i, k are independently 5 to 15; and z is independently 5 to 50. Preferably i, k are independently 6 to 12; and z is independently 15 to 35.

The nonionic surfactant may also include a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,389,279 to Au et al. titled "Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants issued Feb. 14, 1995; which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled "Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems" issued Apr. 23, 1991 ; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.

Skin Benefit Agent

The cleansing composition of the invention may comprise a skin benefit agent. The skin benefit agent is preferably selected from optical and sensory modifiers (e.g. exfoliants), emollients, antiacne actives, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, antiwrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives, skin barrier repair actives, artificial tanning actives, skin lightening actives, sunscreen actives, anti-itch ingredients, fragrance, moisturizers (e.g. occlusive like petroleum jelly; or non-occlusive like glycerin) optical modifiers and mixtures thereof.

Cationic Skin Conditioning Agents

A useful component in cleansing compositions according to the invention is a cationic skin feel agent or polymer, such as for example cationic celluloses. Cationic polymers are preferably used at levels as low as about 0.1 to 2% up to levels as high as the solubility limit of the specific polymer, or preferably up to about 4 to 5% by wt., provided that the solubility limit of the particular cationic polymer or blend thereof is not exceeded. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl io cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, 15 referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Also, preferred cationic polymers are quaternary nitrogen-containing polysaccharides, preferably quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers, such as those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,472,840; 3,962,418; 4,663,159, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,407,919. Particularly preferred are quaternary nitrogen-containing hydroxyethyl celluloses. Examples of such cationic polymers are salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide such as Polyquaternium-10, made commercially available by Dow® as UCARE™ Polymer JR-125, UCARE Polymer J R-400, UCARE Polymer KF, UCARE Polymer J R-30M, UCARE Polymer LR- 400, UCARE Polymer LR-30M, UCARE Polymer LK mixtures thereof or the like.

Other preferred cationic polymers include those known as hydrophobically-modified cationic conditioning polymers such as those made commercially available also by Dow® under the names SoftCATTM SL 5, SoftCAT SL 30, SoftCAT SL 60, SoftCAT SL 100, SoftCAT SK-L, SoftCAT SK-M, and SoftCAT SK-H. Included for suitable use in the invention as thickening agent are those cationic polymers referred to as Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium 24 or mixtures thereof

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution. Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162, especially JAGUAR C13S, and JAGUAR C-14/BFG. The JAGUAR C14/BFG material is the same molecule as JAGUAR C13, except that a glyoxal cross linker has replaced the boron. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.

Other suitable examples of surfactants described above which may be used are described in "Surface Active Agents and Detergents" (Vol. I & II) by Schwartz, Perry & Berch, incorporated into the subject application by reference in its entirety. In addition, the inventive cleansing composition of the invention may include 0 to 15% by wt. optional ingredients as follows: perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1%, preferably 0.01 to 0.05%; and soluble coloring agents, and the like; all of which are useful in so enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product. The compositions may further comprise antimicrobials such as 2-hydroxy-4,2',4' trichlorodiphenylether (DP300); preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydantoin (Glydant 55 XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc., and the like. The compositions may also comprise coconut acyl monoor 2.5 diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate may also be used to advantage. Preferably strongly ionizing salts, otherwise known as electrolytes, will be present at less than 3, 2 or 1 % by wt. Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like may be used advantageously in amounts of about 0.01% or higher if appropriate.

The term "emollient" is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients; or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Moisturizers that also are Humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerin and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols and the like may be used as hydrophilic emollients. Humectants are preferably used at levels as low as 1 , 3 or 5% by wt. and at levels as high as 6, 8 or 10% by wt.

Petrolatum is used in the invention, preferably at levels as low as 1 , 3 or 4% by wt. and at levels as high as 5, 6, 8, 12 or 16% by wt. Petrolatum is defined as a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum having a melting point between 35 and 80 degrees C (as determined by ASTM D127-08, "Standard Test Method for Drop Melting Point of Petroleum Wax, including Petrolatum", ASTM International, West Conshohocken, Pa.) and a minimum viscosity of 10 Kps at 32 degrees C. Preferably it has a viscosity range of 10 to 35 Kps at 32 degrees C. More preferably the upper limit of viscosity is 25 or 50 Kps at 32 degrees C. Other non-Petrolatum hydrophobic emollients are preferably present at total levels of less than about 1.5, 1.0, or 0.5% by wt. in the inventive composition and are more preferably absent from the composition. These hydrophobic emollients include but are not limited to the following:

(a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;

(b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;

(c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

(d) hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extracts;

(e) non-Petrolatum hydrocarbons such as polybutene, liquid paraffins, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;

(f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PLIFA);

(g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2- hexydecanol alcohol;

(h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

(i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;

(j) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.

Polymeric Dispersion Stabilizing Agents

Water soluble or dispersible polymeric dispersion agents are included in the inventive composition. Suitable agents include carbohydrate gums such as cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gel, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethyl carboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, hydroxymethyl carboxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, guar gum, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, gum acacia, gum agar, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.

Preferred carbohydrate gums are Hydroxypropyl Methocellulose such as Methocel® 40-100 and Methocel 40-202 (Dow Chemicals, Midland, Mich.), Sodium Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as Pure-Gel B990 (Grain Processing Corp., Muscatine, Iowa), and Xanthan Gum such as Keltrol CG (CPKelco, Atlanta, Ga.).

Suitable polymeric dispersion agents also include acrylate containing homo and copolymers such as the crosslinked poly acrylates available 2.5 under the CARBOPOL trade name, the hydrophobically modified cross linked polyacrylates available under the AQUA trade name, and the PEMULEN trade name (all sold by Lubrizol Company, Wickliffe, Ohio) and the alkali swellable acrylic latex polymers sold by Rohm and Haas (Philadelphia, Pa.) under the ARYSOL orACULYN trade names Preferred acrylates are the Aqua SF-1® and Carbopol Ultrez 21® polymers.

Clay and Silica Structuring Agents

Clay, silica and other particle based comparative structuring agent(s) may be present at less than 1.5, 1 or 0.5% by wt. and preferably are not present in the inventive composition. These agents include but are not limited to dispersed amorphous silica selected from the group consisting of fumed silica and precipitated silica and mixtures thereof. As used herein the term "dispersed amorphous silica" refers to small, finely divided non-crystalline silica having a mean agglomerate particle size of less than about 100 microns.

Other examples of comparative structurants include but are not limited to dispersed smectite clay including bentonite and hectorite and mixtures thereof. Bentonite is a colloidal aluminum clay sulfate. Hectorite is a clay containing sodium, magnesium, lithium, silicon, oxygen, hydrogen and fluorine.

Optional Active Agents

Advantageously, active agents other than conditioning agents such as emollients or moisturizers defined above may be added to the cleansing composition in a safe and effective amount during formulation to treat the skin during the use of the product provided that they do not exceed solubility limits whereby the reflectance increases beyond 80% in the cleansing composition. Suitable active ingredients include those that are soluble in the aqueous phase, in the Petrolatum phase or in both phases. Suitable active agents may be advantageously selected from antimicrobial and antifungal actives, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives; sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; topical anesthetics, or mixtures thereof; and the like. These active agents may be selected from water soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof.

Also useful in the compositions of the invention are ingredients selected from organic solvents (ethanol), other thickeners, sequestrants (EDTA), coloring agents, opacifiers, pearlisers (zinc stearate, TiCh), preservatives (for example Glydant, parabens), antioxidants (BHT) and mixtures thereof).

The term "active agent" as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and/or hair and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit, as is conferred by humectants and emollients previously described herein. The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term "benefit," as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and/or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein. What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent ingredient will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condition, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors.

Preferably the composition of the present invention comprise from about 0.01 % to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 25%, even more preferably 0.1 % to about 10%, and most preferably 0.1 % % to about 5%, by weight of the active agent component.

Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles. Nonlimiting examples of useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.

Antimicrobial and antifungal actives can be effective to prevent the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi. Nonlimiting examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives include b-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'- trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, triclosan; triclocarban; and mixtures thereof and the like. Anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives can be effective in replenishing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These actives generally provide these desirable skin care benefits by promoting or maintaining the natural process of desquamation.

Nonlimiting examples of antiwrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives include vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate; vitamin B3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid), alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, e.g. salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5- octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid); mixtures thereof and the like.

Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Nonlimiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like. Non-steroidal cosmetic soothing actives can be effective in preventing or treating inflammation of the skin. The soothing active enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. Nonlimiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid derivatives; mixtures thereof and the like. Many of these cosmetic soothing actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al., issued Jan. 15, 1991 , incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

In another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises 12 hydroxy stearic acid. Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural suntan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin. Nonlimiting examples of artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.

Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms. Nonlimiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl-L-ascorbic acid, aminotyroxine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydroxyanisole, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Also useful herein are sunscreen actives. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11 , 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued 2.5 Dec. 17, 1991 ; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073, 371 , to Turner et al. issued Dec. 17, 1991 ; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Nonlimiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N- dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like. Sebum stimulators can increase the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Nonlimiting examples of sebum stimulating actives include bryonolic acid, dehydroetiandro sterone (DHEA), orizanol, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Sebum inhibitors can decrease the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Nonlimiting examples of useful sebum inhibiting actives include aluminum hydroxy chloride, corticosteroids, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenyl imidazoldioxolan (available from Elubiol), mixtures thereof, and the like.

Also useful as actives in the present invention are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases. Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixtures thereof and the like.

Other useful as active ingredients in the present invention are skin tightening agents. Nonlimiting examples of skin tightening agents which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include monomers which can bind a polymer to the skin such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, (meth)acrylic acid and a hydrophobic monomer comprised of long chain alkyl (meth)acrylates, mixtures thereof, and the like. Active ingredients in the present invention may also so include antiitch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone, methdilizine and trimeprazineare, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Nonlimiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include beta estradiol, anti angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linoleic acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and genistine mixtures thereof, and the like.

Nonlimiting examples of desquamating enzyme enhancers which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include alanine, aspartic acid, N methyl serine, serine, trimethyl glycine, mixtures thereof, and the like.

A nonlimiting example of an anti-glycation agent which is useful in the compositions of the present invention would be Amadorine (available from Barnet Products Distributor), and the like.

The cleansing compositions of the present invention preferably include a pearlescer to improve visual appearance and/or consumer appeal of the product. Most preferably the pearlescer is selected from mica, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide coated mica ethylene glycol distearate (INCI glycol distearate) and mixtures thereof.

Unless otherwise indicated, ratios, percentages, parts, and the like, referred to herein, are by weight.

Except where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount as well as any subranges consumed therein. In that regard, it is noted that all ranges disclosed herein are inclusive of the endpoints, and the endpoints are independently combinable with each other (e.g., ranges of “up to 25% by weight, or, more specifically, 5% by weight to 20% by weight, in inclusive of the endpoints and all intermediate values of the ranges of 5% by weight to 25% by weight, etc.). “Combination is inclusive of blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, and the like. Furthermore, the terms “first”, “second”, and the like herein do not denote any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another. The terms “a” and “an” and “the” herein do not denote a limitation of quantity and are to be construed to cover both the singular and the plural, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context. The suffix “(s)” as used herein is intended to include both the singular and the plural of the term it modifies, thereby including one or more of the term (e.g., the film(s) includes one or more films). Reference throughout the specification to “one embodiment”, “one aspect”, “another embodiment”, “another aspect”, “an embodiment”, “an aspect” and so forth means that a particular element (e.g., feature, structure, and/or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment or aspect is included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments or aspects.

All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if a term in the present application contradicts or conflicts with a term in the incorporated reference, the term from the present application takes precedence over the conflicting term from the incorporated reference. While particular aspects have been described, alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents that are or may be presently unforeseen may arise to applicants or others skilled in the art. Accordingly, the appended claims as filed and as they may be amended are intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents. For the avoidance of doubt the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of’ or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps, options, or alternatives need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all aspects as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. In specifying any range of values or amounts, any particular upper value or amount can be associated with any particular lower value or amount. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the present invention referred to in individual sections above apply, as appropriate, to other sections mutatis mutandis. Consequently, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as appropriate. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the disclosure in any way.

Examples

Embodiments of the invention are described by the following non-limiting examples.

Example 1 : Suspending Polymers A - E for use in the cleansing compositions of the invention.

The suspending polymers, designated Polymers A - E, for use in the cleansing compositions of the invention were prepared. The details of Polymers A - E are given in Table 1 below, where the structural architecture of the polycarbonates differs.

Table 1 : Structural Composition of Suspending Polymers A - E Suspending Polymers A - E were made using the following preparation method:

Synthesis of benzyl 2,2-bis(methylol)propionate precursor. 2,2-Bis(hydroxymethyl) propionic acid (25 g) was mixed with KOH (11.94 g) in DMF at 100 °C until homogeneous. Benzyl bromide was added and left to react overnight. DMF was removed and the residue dissolved in DCM and washed with water. DCM was removed and the product recrystallized to obtain white crystals.

Synthesis of 5-methyl-5-benzyloxycarbonyl-1 ,3-trimethylene carbonate (TMCC) monomer. Diol precursor (10 g) and pyridine (22.32 mL) were dissolved in DCM under N2 at -78 °C and stirred until the reagents were dissolved. Triphosgene (6.52 g) in DCM was added dropwise to the reaction mixture. The reaction was allowed to proceed overnight at room temperature and quenched with saturated NH4CI. The organic layer was then washed with 1 M HCI, saturated aqueous NaHCCh and dried with MgSCL. The crude monomer was collected as yellow solid and recrystallised in ethyl acetate.

Synthesis of poly(5-methyl-5-benzyloxycarbonyl-1 ,3-trimethylene carbonate) (PTMCC). Using standard glovebox techniques, a glass vial was filled with TMCC monomer (150 mg) and CDCI3 (2 mL). 4-Methoxy benzyl alcohol (0.74 pL) was added to the monomer solution (10 pL in 500mL stock solution), followed by (Mg(BHT)2(THF)2) (1.82 mg). The ampoule was sealed, and the reaction proceeded inside the glovebox at room temperature for 40 minutes. The reaction was quenched with TFA and the polymer precipitated in cold methanol.

Procedure for deprotection of PTMCC. PTMCC (1.56 g) was added to degassed ethyl acetate (60 mL), followed by Pd/C catalyst (10 wt%, 0.156 g) and place under N2 flow. Hydrogen was bubbled through the solution with vigorous stirring until completion. The reaction mixture was centrifuged and filtered to isolate the deprotected product.

Example 2: Preparation of Shampoos S1 - S5, in accordance with the invention and Comparative Shampoos, SA - SC.

Shampoos were prepared, in accordance with the invention, comprising Suspending Polymers A - E. Comparative shampoos SA and SB comprising Carbomer and SC comprising Acrylates Copolymer, were also prepared. Comparative shampoos SA, SB and SC were prepared by the following method:

1 . The polymer (Carbomer or Acrylates Copolymer) was thoroughly dispersed in water.

2. The cleansing surfactants, mica, and preservatives were then added to the polymer and fully dispersed.

3. The resulting formulation was adjusted to the desired pH and viscosity using suitable pH and viscosity modifiers.

Shampoos in accordance with the invention were prepared by the following method:

1 . Suspending polymer (Polymer (A) - (E)) was added to water.

2. The polymer was then allowed to swell by increasing the pH, using a suitable pH modifier, until a clear solution was obtained.

3. The cleansing surfactants, mica, and preservatives were then added to the swollen polymer and fully dispersed.

4. The resulting formulation was adjusted to the desired pH and viscosity using suitable pH and viscosity modifiers.

The compositions are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below.

Example 3: Analytical methods

The following analytical methods were used in these examples:

Stability index:

Stability measurements were made on base compositions as described in Tables 2 and 3 and assessed using a Lumisizer or similar. The higher the number, the greater the instability.

Appearance:

Appearance was assessed for compositions SA-SC and S1-S5 as described in Tables 2 and 3, using a ranked score of 1 to 5, where 1 indicated a uniform but coarse granular appearance with no reflectance, and 5 indicated a fine uniform dispersion of mica with high reflectivity. Viscosity:

Viscosity was measured using a TA instruments rheometer, using a sand blasted parallel plate geometry at 4 s^-1 at 30°C. pH: pH was measured using a calibrated pH meter (pH was from 4 -5.5 unless otherwise stated)

Example 4: Impact of Polycarbonate on stability index and appearance of shampoo Shampoos were prepared, in accordance with the invention (designated S1 - S5) which comprised suspending polymers (A) - (E), having differing structural architecture (as detailed in Table 1).

Comparative Shampoos, SA - SC were also made, which comprised a commercial structuring polymer Carbomer.

Table 2: Compositions of Comparative Shampoos SA - SC Table 3: Compositions of Shampoos S1 - S5, in accordance with the invention

Claims

Claims

1. A cleansing composition comprising: a) a suspending polymer; b) a surfactant system comprising an anionic surfactant and a co-surfactant; and c) water; wherein the suspending polymer is selected from i) a homopolymer defined by Formula (1): Formula (1) wherein R group is an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R1 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, R2 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and R3 an aliphatic or an aromatic moiety or group, and wherein y is from 50 to 1000, preferably from 100 to 750, more preferably from 200 to 600 and x is 1 or 0; and ii) a copolymer defined by Formula (2): Formula (2) wherein R1, R2, R3, x and y are as defined for Formula (1); R4 is selected from the same definitions as R2 in Formula (1) and R5 is selected from the same definitions as R3 in Formula (1); and

R4 may be the same as R2 in Formula (1) or R4 may be different from R2 in Formula (1) and; R5 may be the same as R3 in Formula (1) or R5 may be different from R3 in Formula (1) and; wherein the percent weight for weight of y:z is within the range of from 100 to ), excluding homopolymers; and wherein the polymer is selected from a linear polymer, a star polymer, a branched polymer and a crosslinked polymer.

2. A cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, in Formula (1), any or all of R1, R2, and/or R3 is selected from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aromatic moiety or group, an aliphatic ring, an allyl ether, carboxylic acid groups and esters and amides thereof.

3. A cleansing composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the alkyl group is selected from a hydroxyl group, an amine group, a nitro group, an ether group, a carboxylic acid, an amide, a cyano group, trifluoromethyl, an ester, an alkene an alkyne, an azide, an azo, an isocyanate, a ketone, an aldehyde and mixtures thereof.

4. A cleansing composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the aromatic moiety or group is selected from an aromatic hydrocarbon group, an aromatic heterocyclic group and mixtures thereof.

5. A cleansing composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the aliphatic group or moiety, is selected from an n-alkyl chain or a branched alkyl chain, optionally comprising unsaturated moieties and/or heteroatoms.

6. A cleansing composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein R1 , R2, and/or R3 comprise a carboxylate, carboxylic acid, or ester or amide derivative thereof.

7. A cleansing composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the suspending polymer is a linear polymer, where R1 is hydrogen or an aromatic group, preferably R1 is hydrogen or 4-methoxy-benzyl alcohol.

8. A cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claim 1 to 6, wherein the suspending polymer is a branched polymer formed using an inimer, where R3 where the polymer a homopolymer, or R5 where the polymer is a copolymer, is an alcohol group.

9. A cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the suspending polymer is a star polymer having 4 or 6 arms, and where R1 is an aliphatic group.

10. A cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the suspending polymer is selected from a homopolymer of Formula (1), comprising an acid containing monomer, a homopolymer of an inimer, preferably 5-((3-((2- hydroxyethyl)thio)propoxy)methyl)-5-methyl-1,3-dioxan-2-one, and a homopolymer of an allyl containing monomer.

11. A cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the suspending polymer is a copolymer of Formula (2) comprising an acid monomer and an inimer, preferably 5-methyl-1,3-dioxane-2-one-5-carboxylic acid and 5-((3-((2- hydroxyethyl)thio)propoxy)methyl)-5-methyl-1,3-dioxan-2-one.

12. A cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the suspending polymer comprises up to 10 wt% of structural units of a diamino crosslinking component.

13. A cleansing composition as claimed in any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises a further ingredient selected from an inorganic salt; a preservative; a pH adjuster; a cationic polysaccharide deposition polymer selected from cationic dextrans, cationic celluloses and cationic polygalactomannans; and mixtures thereof.

14. A method of treating hair or skin with a cleansing composition as claimed in claims 1 to 13, comprising the step of applying the composition to the hair or skin.

15. Use of a suspending polymer as defined herein as a suspension agent in aqueous cleansing compositions.