WO2025047305A1 - Weft knitted fabric - Google Patents
Weft knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- WO2025047305A1 WO2025047305A1 PCT/JP2024/027853 JP2024027853W WO2025047305A1 WO 2025047305 A1 WO2025047305 A1 WO 2025047305A1 JP 2024027853 W JP2024027853 W JP 2024027853W WO 2025047305 A1 WO2025047305 A1 WO 2025047305A1
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- course
- knitted fabric
- weft knitted
- yarn
- knitting
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
- A41D31/18—Elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a weft knitted fabric.
- Patent Document 1 discloses a single knit fabric having a twill-like appearance on the front side and a pile-like appearance on the back side, which is constructed by alternately arranging thick yarn A and thinner yarn B having an apparent thickness ratio of 1/1.5 or less.
- Knitted fabrics used in comfortable clothing are required to have a smooth texture.
- the stitches By thinning the yarn constituting the knitted fabric, the stitches become smaller, resulting in a knitted fabric with a smooth sinker loop surface, but at the same time, the undulations of the needle loop surface are also reduced. Therefore, with conventional knitted fabrics, it has been difficult to achieve both the smoothness of the sinker loop surface and the designability of the large undulations of the needle loop surface.
- the needle loop surface shows an undulating kanoko-like appearance, but the sinker loop surface does not have a smooth texture because the stitches forming the pile protrude.
- an elastic fiber such as polyurethane is knitted in order to impart stretchability, the stitches become smaller, which causes a problem that the undulations on the needle loop surface become even smaller.
- the problem that the present invention aims to solve is to provide a weft knitted fabric that is stretchable, has excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and has large undulations on the needle loop surface.
- a weft knitted fabric comprising: all courses containing inelastic yarn; any course containing elastic yarn; one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same structure, course A, course B, and course C, repeated in this order toward the knitting end direction; course A, course B, and course C each having a structure different from one another; course A containing knit; course B containing knit and tuck; course C containing knit and welt, and further containing elastic yarn; comprising one or more tuck stitches in which the knit of course A and the tuck of course B are continuously formed on the same wale; the tuck stitch and the welt of course C are continuously formed on the same wale in at least one or more places; and a ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length (L A ) of course C to the loop length (L A ) of course A is 0.50 to 0.95.
- the weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [16] which is a single weft knitted fabric.
- a shirt comprising the weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [17].
- the weft knitted fabric of the present invention has stretchability, excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and large undulations on the needle loop surface, making it suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottom wear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
- FIG. FIG. FIG. 1 is an example of a weft knitted fabric of the present invention.
- FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram of a knitting structure of an example of a weft knitted fabric of the present invention and a relationship between the knitting structure and the notations in the following Tables 1 to 5 corresponding to the knitting structure.
- One embodiment of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric, the fabric comprising: all courses containing inelastic yarn; any course containing elastic yarn; one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, course A, course B, and course C, repeated in this order in the knitting end direction; the course A, course B, and course C each having a different weave; the course A includes a knit; the course B includes a knit and a tuck; the course C includes a knit and a welt, and further includes elastic yarn; the knit of the course A and the tuck of the course B include one or more tuck stitches formed continuously on the same wale; the tuck stitch and the welt of the course C are continuous on the same wale in at least one or more places; and the ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length of the course C (L A ) to the loop length of the course A is 0.50 to 0.95.
- needle loop surface refers to the surface composed of needle loops, which are the crests of the loops, and is synonymous with the technical face (TF) (the front side of the paper in Figures 1 to 3).
- the "sinker loop surface” refers to the surface that is made up of the sinker loop, which is the valley of the loop, and is synonymous with the technical back (TB) (reverse side of the pages in Figures 1 to 3)
- non-elastic yarn refers to fibers whose breaking elongation is less than 100%.
- elastic yarn refers to a fiber with a breaking elongation of 100% or more.
- Course A includes knit.
- Course A may include a knit structure other than knit, but is preferably composed of knit only (see FIG. 4).
- the course A may be composed of only one course, or may be composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave. When the course A is composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
- Course B includes knit and tuck.
- Course B may include a knit structure other than knit and tuck, but is preferably composed of only knit and tuck (see FIG. 4).
- Course B may be composed of only one course, or may be composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave (see FIG. 4).
- course B is preferably composed of two or more consecutive courses, and more preferably composed of two or three or more consecutive courses.
- course B is composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
- Course C includes knit and welt.
- Course C may include a knit structure other than knit and welt, but is preferably composed of only knit and welt (see FIG. 4).
- course C composed of only knit and welt, the yarn length of course C becomes smaller, the needle loops of course C become smaller, and the difference in stitch size between course A and the tuck knit formed by course B becomes larger, so that the undulations formed on the needle loop surface become larger.
- the course C includes an elastic yarn. By including the elastic yarn in the course C, the stitches of the course C become smaller due to contraction of the elastic yarn (see FIG. 4), causing a difference in size between the stitches forming the protrusions and the stitches, and increasing the undulations of the needle loop surface.
- the welt has few contact points with other yarns on the sinker loop surface, and the degree of freedom of the yarn is high (see FIG. 4), so including the elastic yarn in the course C allows the elasticity of the elastic yarn to be fully exerted, improving the stretch recovery.
- Course C may consist of only one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same weave. From the viewpoint of suppressing the protrusion of the welts into the sinker loop due to overlapping of the welts and improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface, it is preferable that course C consists of one to three courses. When course C consists of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
- course A, course B, and course C are repeated in this order toward the end of knitting.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment may be knitted in the order of A, B, C, A... from the beginning to the end of knitting, or one or more of course A, course B, and course C may be knitted from a plurality of courses, such as A, B, B, C, A... or A, B, B, C, C, A... (see Tables 1 to 5 and FIG. 6).
- a tuck knit is formed by continuing a knit of course A and a tuck of course B on the same wale (see the wale on the left side of Fig. 4).
- a large undulation is formed on the needle loop surface by forming a tuck knit.
- the tuck stitch formed by the knit of course A and the tuck of course B and the welt of course C are continuous on the same wale at least in one place (see the wale on the left side of Figure 4).
- the tuck stitch and the welt of course C be continuous on the same wale at least in one place, so the tuck stitch formed by course A and course B becomes large, so the undulations of the needle loop surface become large, and the welt structure of course C arranged on the sinker loop surface fills the depressions on the sinker loop surface formed by course A and course B, so the smoothness of the sinker loop surface increases.
- the ratio of the number of tuck stitches that are continuous on the same wale as the welt of course C to the total number of tuck stitches is preferably 50% or more, and more preferably 100%.
- one complete structure refers to the smallest repeating unit of the knitting structure that constitutes the knitted fabric.
- the tuck stitches that make up the "total number of tuck stitches in one complete structure" can be included not only in course B, but also in course A and/or course C.
- the ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length L C of course C to the loop length L A of course A is 0.50 to 0.95, preferably 0.60 to 0.90, and more preferably 0.68 to 0.85.
- the needle loops of course C do not become too small, so that it is possible to obtain stretchability suitable for wearing.
- the method for adjusting the L C /L A to 0.50 to 0.95 is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include a method of increasing the number of knits in course A and a method of decreasing the number of knits in course C.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment contains inelastic yarn in all courses.
- inelastic yarn natural fibers, synthetic fibers, regenerated (refined) cellulose fibers, etc. can be used. Examples of natural fibers include cotton, hemp, silk, wool, etc.
- polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, and polyolefin fibers such as polyethylene and polypropylene, and these can be selected arbitrarily as bright yarns, semi-dull yarns, full-dull yarns, etc.
- the cross-sectional shape of the fiber can be any cross-sectional shape such as round, elliptical, W-shaped, cocoon-shaped, hollow yarn, etc., and the form of the fiber is not particularly limited, and it may be raw yarn, false twist, or other crimped yarn.
- regenerated (refined) cellulose fibers include rayon, cupra, lyocell, etc. Regenerated (refined) cellulose fibers can be in the form of a single yarn as raw yarn or twisted yarn, or in the form of a composite yarn with the synthetic fibers exemplified below.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment includes an elastic yarn in course C, and also includes an elastic yarn in either course A or course B, preferably course B.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment includes an elastic yarn in addition to having the configurations of course A, course B, and course C described above, and thus it is possible to impart stretchability to the weft knitted fabric while suppressing flattening of the needle loop surface due to contraction of the elastic yarn.
- course A does not contain elastic yarn, i.e., is made only of inelastic yarn.
- a made only of inelastic yarn tuck stitches can be formed without shrinking the needle loops, making it easier to form larger undulations on the needle loop surface, and furthermore, the stitches of the tuck stitches are less likely to close, allowing air to pass through more easily, improving the quick-drying properties of the weft knit fabric.
- the knitted fabric of this embodiment preferably includes an elastic yarn in the course on the end side of knitting.
- the knitted fabric of this embodiment can minimize the shrinkage of the needle loop, making it easier to prevent the flattening of the needle loop surface due to the elastic yarn.
- the knitted fabric of this embodiment has fewer inelastic yarns that secure the elastic yarn in the needle loop compared to when elastic yarn is included in the course on the start side of knitting, so the elastic yarn is more easily deformed and it is easier to obtain stretch and recovery suitable for wearing.
- the material of the elastic yarn and the spinning method are not particularly limited, and polyurethane-based or polyether ester-based elastic yarns can be used, and for example, dry-spun or melt-spun yarns can be used. It is preferable that the elastic yarn does not lose its elasticity at around 180°C, which is the normal processing temperature for the presetting step during dyeing processing.
- the elastic yarn may contain functionalizing agents such as special polymers or inorganic substances to impart functionality according to the purpose, such as high setting ability, deodorizing properties, and antibacterial properties.
- the fineness of the elastic yarn is preferably 9 to 155 dtex, and more preferably 15 to 80 dtex from the viewpoint of ease of manufacturing the weft knitted fabric.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment can include, as the elastic yarn, a bare yarn (bare yarn) that is not covered by a non-elastic yarn, or a covering yarn in which a bare yarn is covered by a non-elastic yarn, but from the viewpoint of increasing the smoothness of the back surface of the fabric, a bare yarn (bare yarn) is preferable. Furthermore, in a weft knitted fabric using bare yarn as the elastic yarn, moisture is less likely to remain around the elastic yarn when dealing with sweat generated in large amounts during exercise or when worn in a hot environment, and the knitted fabric dries faster, making it more comfortable to wear. Furthermore, in a weft knitted fabric using bare yarn as the elastic yarn, the fiber diameter of the bare yarn is smaller than that of a covering yarn, so that unevenness is less likely to form on the needle loop surface, resulting in a smoother texture.
- a covering yarn As the elastic yarn, a single covered yarn (SCY) or a double covered yarn (DCY) can be used as the covering yarn, and the total fineness of the covering yarn is preferably 30 to 200 dtex, and from the viewpoint of ease of knitted fabric production, 40 to 155 dtex is even more preferable.
- the blending ratio of elastic yarn is 5.0% by mass or more.
- the ratio (F C /F A ) of the fineness F C of the largest inelastic yarn included in course C to the fineness F A of the largest inelastic yarn included in course A is preferably less than 1.0, more preferably 0.20 to 0.98, even more preferably 0.25 to 0.93, and most preferably 0.30 to 0.90.
- the yarn formed in course C fills the depression formed on the sinker loop surface by courses A and B, making it easy to smooth the sinker loop surface.
- the welt of course C can be prevented from protruding onto the sinker loop surface, improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface and increasing the undulations of the needle loop surface.
- the inelastic yarn contained in course C is a long fiber.
- long fibers in course C frictional resistance with the knitting needles during knitting is reduced, and knitting is possible with a smaller yarn length compared to short fibers of the same fineness, resulting in smaller stitches and making it possible to increase the undulations of the needle loop surface.
- fuzz on the sinker loop surface is reduced, improving smoothness.
- the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in course C is preferably 3.0 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, and even more preferably 1.8 dtex or less, from the viewpoint of preventing the yarn from buckling at the welt and protruding onto the sinker loop surface and improving smoothness. Furthermore, since the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in course C is 3.0 dtex or less, the welt of course C is less likely to protrude onto the sinker loop surface, so that the welt of course C is reliably positioned in the depression on the sinker loop surface formed by the tuck knitting, greatly improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface.
- the ratio (F BS /F BE ) of the fineness (F BS ) of the inelastic yarn in the course at the start of knitting to the fineness (F BE ) of the inelastic yarn in the course at the end of knitting is preferably less than 1.0, more preferably 0.20 to 0.95, and even more preferably 0.25 to 0.90.
- F BS /F BE is less than 1.0, the arrangement of the two inelastic yarns during tuck knitting is stable, making it possible to reduce the basis weight of the fabric and preventing the undulations of the needle loop surface from becoming small.
- the fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting end side of course B is preferably 200 dtex or less and/or long fiber.
- the inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting end side of course B is knitted closest to the sinker loop surface side, so by having a fineness of 200 dtex or less and/or long fiber, the sinker loop surface tends to be smooth. If course B consists of only one course, that one course becomes the "course on the knitting end side".
- the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn included in course B on the knitting end side is preferably 3.0 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, and even more preferably 1.8 dtex or less, from the viewpoint of preventing the yarn from buckling and protruding onto the sinker loop surface and improving smoothness.
- the ratio (F BS /F A ) of the fineness F BS of the inelastic yarn included in the start course of knitting in course B to the fineness F A of the largest inelastic yarn included in course A is preferably less than 1.00, and more preferably 0.90 or less.
- F BS /F A is less than 1.00, the undulations of the needle loop surface do not become small, making it possible to reduce the basis weight of the fabric and providing a knitted fabric with excellent quick-drying properties.
- the inelastic yarn contained in course A and/or course B is preferably a staple fiber, and in particular, a cellulose fiber. From the same viewpoint, it is also preferable that the inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting start side in course B is a staple fiber.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is preferably a single weft knitted fabric.
- a single weft knitted fabric refers to a fabric knitted on a single weft knitting machine, and is a single-layered fabric having a needle loop surface and a sinker loop surface. Because the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is a single weft knitted fabric, it is possible to reduce the fabric weight while expressing decorative unevenness with the minimum necessary amount of yarn, thereby making it possible to obtain a knitted fabric with excellent design and wearing comfort.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment preferably has an elongation rate of 30% or more in the warp and/or weft directions at a load of 14.7 N, more preferably 40% or more, and even more preferably 50% or more. If the elongation rate in the warp and/or weft directions is 30% or more, the fabric will not hinder human movement when worn as clothing, and therefore can provide clothing with excellent movement comfort.
- the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment has a stretch recovery rate in the warp and/or weft directions of preferably 40% or more, more preferably 50% or more, and even more preferably 60% or more. If the stretch recovery rate in the warp and/or weft directions is 40% or more, the fabric can retain its shape even after repeated wearing when made into clothing, which leads to an extended product life.
- the basis weight of the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is preferably 130 g/m 2 to 250 g/m 2 , more preferably 190 g/m 2 to 230 g/m 2. If the basis weight is 130 g/m 2 or more, the burst strength of the fabric when made into a garment is improved, resulting in a fabric that is preferable for practical wear. Also, if the basis weight is 250 g/m 2 or less, the knitted fabric will not be too thick, and a knitted fabric with the appropriate stiffness required to maintain the silhouette of the product will be obtained, resulting in a knitted fabric that is suitable for wearing, for example, as a polo shirt.
- the thickness of the weft knitted fabric in this embodiment is preferably 0.40 mm to 1.50 mm, and more preferably 0.60 mm to 1.40 mm. If the thickness is 0.50 mm or more, there will be no problems with transparency or strength when worn, and if the thickness is 1.50 mm or less, the knitted fabric will not be too thick and will have the appropriate stiffness necessary to maintain the silhouette of the product, making it suitable for wearing as an outerwear, for example.
- the knitting machine used to obtain the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is not particularly limited, and the gauge of the knitting machine can be selected as desired, but it is preferable to use a knitting machine with a gauge of about 20 to 44.
- a knitting machine with a gauge of 20 to 44 can knit yarn with a fineness suitable for pattern expression while preventing the loop size from becoming too small, making it easier to achieve both appropriate stretchability and design.
- the weft knit of this embodiment may be dyed.
- a dyeing and finishing method a normal dyeing and finishing process can be used, with dyeing conditions according to the fiber material used, and any dyeing machine such as a jet dyeing machine, winch dyeing machine, or paddle dyeing machine can be used.
- a processing agent that improves water absorption and softness can be used.
- a softener a silicone-based, urethane-based, or ester-based softener can be used, and the concentration can be selected appropriately according to the desired texture of the knitted fabric. If the concentration is in the range of 0.1% owf to 2.0% owf, bending softness is good and friction between the stitches is reduced, making it possible to impart soft stretchability and recovery.
- the knitted fabric of this embodiment has excellent design due to the large undulations on the needle loop surface and smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and is therefore suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottom wear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
- the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, although it is to be understood that the present invention is not limited to these examples.
- the methods for measuring the characteristic values used in the examples are described below.
- the knitted fabrics used in the measurements are knitted fabrics cut out from clothing, but the present invention also includes knitted fabrics that are not made into clothing, and the applications are not limited to clothing.
- Weight per unit area (g/ m2 ) The weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is measured in accordance with the mass per unit area method A (JIS method) under standard conditions of JIS-L-1096.
- Thickness The thickness of the knitted fabric is measured at five arbitrary positions on the knitted fabric using a PEACOCK knitted fabric thickness meter, and the average value of the five positions is calculated.
- the mass ( Wc ) of a measuring cup (diameter 8 cm, height 10 cm, cylindrical polypropylene) is measured, and then the above-mentioned conditioned test piece is placed in the cup, and the mass (Wc +t ) of the cup and test piece is measured.
- 300 ⁇ l of pure water is dropped onto the dough sinker loop surface using a micropipette, and the mass (Wc +t+w ) is immediately recorded.
- the dough was left in the cup for 60 minutes, and the dough was dried.
- Elongation and Elongation Recovery Rate The elongation and elongation recovery rate in the warp direction (weave direction) and weft direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric are measured according to JIS-L1096-8.16.2-B-1 method (constant load method). The load is 14.7 N.
- a test piece is taken with a width of 50 mm and a length of 200 mm so that the direction inclined at 45° to the wale direction of the knitted fabric is the length direction.
- the needle loop surface and sinker loop surface of the test piece are rubbed from the end of the knitting to the start of the knitting (reverse grain) along the length direction of the test piece using a static and dynamic friction measuring device Tribomaster Type: TL201Ts manufactured by Trinity Labs under the following conditions.
- Friction element WC-Co alloy type (main material: tungsten carbide), thickness 0.5 mm x width 5.0 mm Measurement load: 3.75 g ⁇ Friction speed: 30mm/sec ⁇ Friction element movement distance: 70.0mm Measurement interval: 1.0 milliseconds
- test pieces are taken from different locations on the weft knitted fabric, and five measurements are taken for each test piece (a total of 20 measurements on each of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface).
- the analysis application "Trib analysis soft ver. 6.02" is used for the analysis. Specifically, the section from 0.52 seconds to 2.08 seconds after the start of the measurement is selected as the measurement section, the standard deviation ( ⁇ KSD) of the dynamic friction coefficient ⁇ K is obtained, and the undulation index (UI) in the 20 measurements of the dynamic friction coefficient ⁇ KSD is calculated using the following formula. The larger the UI value, the greater the undulation of the measurement surface.
- the undulation indexes of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface are denoted as UI N and UI S , respectively. If UI N is 1.10 or more, it can be said that the needle loop surface has undulations that can express any pattern. If UI S is 1.30 or less, friction when the sinker loop surface comes into contact with the skin is reduced, so that the knitted fabric has excellent wearing comfort.
- Examples 1 to 16, Comparative Examples 1 to 6 A single knitting machine was used to knit a knitted fabric with the gauge, structure, and yarn usage shown in the table below to obtain a grey fabric. The grey fabric was relaxed and scoured in a continuous scouring machine, and then pre-set at 190°C for 1 minute. Dyeing was performed with the addition of 1.0% owf of fabric softener Nikka Silicone AMZ (Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.), and finishing set was performed at 170°C for 1 minute to produce a knitted fabric. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1 to 5 below.
- Ny means nylon
- Pet means polyester
- Co means cotton
- Pu polyurethane elastic yarn
- SCY means single covered yarn
- K means knit
- T means tuck
- W means welt.
- 220 dtex 48f means 220 decitex total fineness and 48 filaments.
- cotton for example, 26/1 means 26 cotton count and single yarn.
- bare polyurethane elastic yarn is used.
- SCY 22 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn stretched 2.4 times is wound with 33 dtex 34f polyester fiber at 1000 T/m.
- “Course number” means the knitting order of courses in one complete structure, and the course with the smaller course number is the knitting start side.
- Needle number means the arrangement of knitting needles in one complete structure, and knitting is performed in order from the knitting needle with the smaller number.
- the weft knitted fabric of the present invention has stretchability, excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and large undulations on the needle loop surface, making it suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottomwear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
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Abstract
Description
本発明は、緯編地に関する。 The present invention relates to a weft knitted fabric.
意匠性と快適性に優れる衣服に対する市場の要求は高く、この要求に応えるため、これまでに様々な衣服用の編地が提供されてきた。
以下の特許文献1には、太い糸Aと、それよりも見掛け太さ比率1/1.5以下の細い糸Bが交互に配列して構成された、表側がカノコ調外観を示し、裏側がパイル調を持つシングル編地が開示されている。
2. Description of the Related Art There is a high demand in the market for clothing that is both stylish and comfortable, and in order to meet this demand, various knitted fabrics for clothing have been provided.
The following
快適性に優れる衣服に用いられる編地として、滑らかな風合いの編地が求められる。編地を構成する糸を細くすることで編目が小さくなるため、シンカーループ面が滑らかな編地が得られるが、同時にニードルループ面の起伏も小さくなる。そのため、従来の編地では、シンカーループ面の滑らかさとニードルループ面の大きな起伏による意匠性を両立することは困難であった。特許文献1に記載された発明でも、ニードルループ面は起伏を有するカノコ調外観を示すものの、シンカーループ面はパイルを形成する編目が突出しているため、滑らかな風合いではなかった。
また、ストレッチ性を付与するためにポリウレタンのような弾性繊維を編み込んだ場合は、編目が小さくなってしまうためニードルループ面の起伏はさらに小さくなるという問題があった。
Knitted fabrics used in comfortable clothing are required to have a smooth texture. By thinning the yarn constituting the knitted fabric, the stitches become smaller, resulting in a knitted fabric with a smooth sinker loop surface, but at the same time, the undulations of the needle loop surface are also reduced. Therefore, with conventional knitted fabrics, it has been difficult to achieve both the smoothness of the sinker loop surface and the designability of the large undulations of the needle loop surface. Even in the invention described in
Furthermore, when an elastic fiber such as polyurethane is knitted in order to impart stretchability, the stitches become smaller, which causes a problem that the undulations on the needle loop surface become even smaller.
これらの従来技術の問題に鑑み、本発明が解決しようとする課題は、ストレッチ性があり、シンカーループ面において滑らかさに優れ、かつ、ニードルループ面において起伏が大きい緯編地を提供することである。 In light of these problems with the conventional technology, the problem that the present invention aims to solve is to provide a weft knitted fabric that is stretchable, has excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and has large undulations on the needle loop surface.
本願発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討し実験を重ねた結果、以下の構成により課題を解決しうることを予想外に見出し、本発明を完成するに至ったものである。 As a result of intensive research and repeated experiments to solve the above problems, the inventors of the present application unexpectedly discovered that the problems could be solved by the following configuration, which led to the completion of the present invention.
すなわち、本発明は以下のとおりのものである。
[1]全てのコースに非弾性糸を含み;いずれかのコースに弾性糸を含み;1コースの、又は同一組織で2コース以上連続する、コースA、コースB、及びコースCが、この順で編み終わり方向に繰り返されており;該コースA、該コースB、及び該コースCは、それぞれ互いに異なる組織であり;該コースAは、ニットを含み;該コースBは、ニットとタックを含み;該コースCは、ニットとウェルトを含み、さらに弾性糸を含み;該コースAのニットと該コースBのタックとが、同一ウェール上に連続して形成されるタック編みを1個以上含み;該タック編みと該コースCのウェルトとが、少なくとも1か所以上で同一ウェール上に連続しており;かつ、該コースAのループ長(LA)に対する該コースCのループ長(LC)の比(LC/LA)の値が0.50~0.95である;緯編地。
[2]前記コースBが、編み始め側のコースから編み終わり側のコースまで、同一組織で2コース以上連続する、前記[1]に記載の緯編地。
[3]前記コースAが、ニットのみからなる、前記[1]又は[2]に記載の緯編地。
[4]前記コースBが、ニットとタックのみからなる、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[5]前記緯編地のタック編みの総数に対する、前記コースCのウェルトと同一ウェール上に連続している前記タック編みの数の割合が50%以上である、前記[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[6]前記緯編地のタック編みの総数に対する、前記コースCのウェルトと同一ウェール上に連続している前記タック編みの数の割合が100%である、前記[5]に記載の緯編地。
[7]前記コースAに含まれる最も繊度の大きい非弾性糸の繊度に対する、前記コースCに含まれる最も繊度の大きい非弾性糸の繊度の比の値が、1.0未満である、前記[1]~[6]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[8]前記コースBにおいて、編み終わり側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸の繊度に対する、編み始め側のコースの繊度が、1.0未満である、前記[2]~[7]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[9]前記コースAに含まれる非弾性糸が、短繊維である、前記[1]~[8]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[10]前記コースBにおいて、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸が、短繊維である、前記[2]~[9]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[11]前記コースAが、非弾性糸のみからなる、前記[1]~[10]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[12]前記コースBにおいて、編み終わり側のコースに弾性糸を含む、前記[2]~[11]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[13]前記コースBにおいて、編み終わり側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸が、長繊維である、前記[2]~[12]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[14]前記コースCに含まれる非弾性糸が、長繊維である、前記[1]~[13]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[15]前記コースAに含まれる非弾性糸のうち、最も繊度の大きい糸と、前記コースBにおいて、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸とで、繊度が異なっている、前記[2]~[14]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[16]前記コースAと、前記コースBにおいて、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸とが、ともにセルロース系糸である、前記[2]~[15]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[17]シングル緯編地である、前記[1]~[16]のいずれかに記載の緯編地。
[18]前記[1]~[17]のいずれかに記載の緯編地を含む、シャツ。
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] A weft knitted fabric comprising: all courses containing inelastic yarn; any course containing elastic yarn; one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same structure, course A, course B, and course C, repeated in this order toward the knitting end direction; course A, course B, and course C each having a structure different from one another; course A containing knit; course B containing knit and tuck; course C containing knit and welt, and further containing elastic yarn; comprising one or more tuck stitches in which the knit of course A and the tuck of course B are continuously formed on the same wale; the tuck stitch and the welt of course C are continuously formed on the same wale in at least one or more places; and a ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length (L A ) of course C to the loop length (L A ) of course A is 0.50 to 0.95.
[2] The weft knitted fabric according to [1], wherein course B is two or more consecutive courses of the same weave from the course at the start of knitting to the course at the end of knitting.
[3] The weft knitted fabric according to [1] or [2], wherein the course A consists only of knit.
[4] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the course B consists only of knits and tucks.
[5] A weft knitted fabric described in any of [1] to [4], wherein the ratio of the number of tuck stitches that are continuous on the same wale as the welt of course C to the total number of tuck stitches of the weft knitted fabric is 50% or more.
[6] A weft knitted fabric as described in [5], in which the ratio of the number of tuck stitches that are continuous on the same wale as the welt of course C to the total number of tuck stitches of the weft knitted fabric is 100%.
[7] A weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein the ratio of the fineness of the largest inelastic yarn included in course C to the fineness of the largest inelastic yarn included in course A is less than 1.0.
[8] A weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [7], wherein in course B, the fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in the course at the start of knitting is less than 1.0 relative to the fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in the course at the end of knitting.
[9] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the inelastic yarn included in the course A is a staple fiber.
[10] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [9], wherein in course B, the inelastic yarn included in the course on the knitting start side is a staple fiber.
[11] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [10], wherein the course A is made only of inelastic yarn.
[12] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [11], wherein in course B, an elastic yarn is included in the course on the knitting end side.
[13] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [12], wherein in course B, the inelastic yarn included in the course on the knitting end side is a long fiber.
[14] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [13], wherein the inelastic yarn included in the course C is a long fiber.
[15] A weft knitted fabric according to any of [2] to [14], wherein the finest yarn among the non-elastic yarns contained in course A is different from the fineness of the non-elastic yarn contained in the course B at the start of knitting.
[16] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [2] to [15], wherein the inelastic yarn included in the course A and the course B at the start of knitting are both cellulose-based yarns.
[17] The weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [16], which is a single weft knitted fabric.
[18] A shirt comprising the weft knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [17].
本発明に係る緯編地は、ストレッチ性があり、シンカーループ面の滑らかさに優れ、かつニードルループ面の起伏が大きいため、肌に直接触れ、かつ、意匠性が要求される繊維製品、例えば、シャツ、インナーウェア、ボトムウェア、ジャケット、マスク等の繊維製品に好適に利用可能であり、特にシャツ用途として好適に利用可能である。 The weft knitted fabric of the present invention has stretchability, excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and large undulations on the needle loop surface, making it suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottom wear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
以下、本発明の実施形態について詳細に説明する。
本発明の1の実施形態は、全てのコースに非弾性糸を含み;いずれかのコースに弾性糸を含み;1コースの、又は同一組織で2コース以上連続する、コースA、コースB、及びコースCが、この順で編み終わり方向に繰り返されており;該コースA、該コースB、及び該コースCは、それぞれ互いに異なる組織であり;該コースAは、ニットを含み;該コースBは、ニットとタックを含み;該コースCは、ニットとウェルトを含み、さらに弾性糸を含む;該コースAのニットと該コースBのタックとが、同一ウェール上に連続して形成されるタック編みを1個以上含み;該タック編みと該コースCのウェルトとが、少なくとも1か所以上で同一ウェール上に連続しており;かつ、該コースAのループ長(LA)に対する該コースCのループ長(LC)の比(LC/LA)の値が0.50~0.95である;緯編地である。
Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail.
One embodiment of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric, the fabric comprising: all courses containing inelastic yarn; any course containing elastic yarn; one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, course A, course B, and course C, repeated in this order in the knitting end direction; the course A, course B, and course C each having a different weave; the course A includes a knit; the course B includes a knit and a tuck; the course C includes a knit and a welt, and further includes elastic yarn; the knit of the course A and the tuck of the course B include one or more tuck stitches formed continuously on the same wale; the tuck stitch and the welt of the course C are continuous on the same wale in at least one or more places; and the ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length of the course C (L A ) to the loop length of the course A is 0.50 to 0.95.
本明細書中、「コース」(以下、(C)で略す。)とは、編目が編地緯方向に連続する列を指し、「ウェール」(以下、(W)で略す。)とは、編目が編地経方向に連続する列を指す(図4参照)。 In this specification, a "course" (hereinafter abbreviated as (C)) refers to a row of stitches that run in the weft direction of the knitted fabric, and a "wale" (hereinafter abbreviated as (W)) refers to a row of stitches that run in the warp direction of the knitted fabric (see Figure 4).
本明細書中、「ニードルループ面」とは、ループの山の部分であるニードルループから構成される面のことを指し、テクニカルフェース(TF)と同義である(図1~3の紙面表側)。 In this specification, the term "needle loop surface" refers to the surface composed of needle loops, which are the crests of the loops, and is synonymous with the technical face (TF) (the front side of the paper in Figures 1 to 3).
本明細書中、「シンカーループ面」とは、ループの谷の部分であるシンカーループから構成される面のことを指し、テクニカルバック(TB)と同義である(図1~3の紙面裏側) In this specification, the "sinker loop surface" refers to the surface that is made up of the sinker loop, which is the valley of the loop, and is synonymous with the technical back (TB) (reverse side of the pages in Figures 1 to 3)
ニット組織(以下、単に「ニット」ともいい、(K)で略す。)においては、図1白線部のように編針の引き込みによって作られた編目がニードルループ(NL)となる。タック組織(以下、単に「タック」ともいい、(T)で略す。)においても、図2白線部のように編針の引き込みによって作られた編目がニードルループとなる。ウェルト(ミス)組織(以下、単に「ウェルト」ともいい、(W)で略す。)においては、図3斜線部のように、糸が針にかかることが無いため、ニードルループは存在せず、同一コース中で隣り合うニードルループ間に渡る糸となるため、全てシンカーループ(SL)となる。 In knit structures (hereafter simply referred to as "knit" and abbreviated as (K)), stitches made by retracting the knitting needle, as shown in the white line area in Figure 1, become needle loops (NL). In tuck structures (hereafter simply referred to as "tuck" and abbreviated as (T)), stitches made by retracting the knitting needle, as shown in the white line area in Figure 2, become needle loops. In welt (miss) structures (hereafter simply referred to as "welt" and abbreviated as (W)), the yarn does not catch on the needle, as shown in the diagonal line area in Figure 3, so there are no needle loops, and the yarn passes between adjacent needle loops in the same course, so all become sinker loops (SL).
本明細書中、「非弾性糸」とは、破断伸度が100%より小さい繊維を指す。 In this specification, "non-elastic yarn" refers to fibers whose breaking elongation is less than 100%.
本明細書中、「弾性糸」とは、破断伸度が100%以上の繊維を指す。 In this specification, "elastic yarn" refers to a fiber with a breaking elongation of 100% or more.
<コースA>
コースAはニットを含む。コースAはニット以外の編み組織を含んでいてもよいが、ニットのみから構成されていることが好ましい(図4参照)。コースAがニットのみで構成されることによって、緯編地中のニットループの量が増えるため、緯編地の伸度と回復性が向上し、動作追随性が向上する。
コースAは、1コースのみで構成されても、同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成されてもよい。コースAが同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成される場合、各コースに含まれる糸が異なっていてもよい。
<Course A>
Course A includes knit. Course A may include a knit structure other than knit, but is preferably composed of knit only (see FIG. 4). By having course A composed of knit only, the amount of knit loops in the weft knitted fabric increases, improving the elongation and recovery of the weft knitted fabric and improving movement tracking.
The course A may be composed of only one course, or may be composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave. When the course A is composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
<コースB>
コースBは、ニットとタックを含む。コースBは、ニットとタック以外の編み組織を含んでいてもよいが、ニットとタックのみから構成されていることが好ましい(図4参照)。コースBがニットとタック組織のみで構成されることにより、ニードルループ面の起伏を形成するタック編数が増えるため、緯編地の意匠性が向上する。
コースBは、1コースのみで構成されても、同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成されてもよい(図4参照)。コースBは、タック編みによる起伏を大きくしながらも着用に適した目付とする観点から、2コース以上連続して構成されることが好ましく、2コース又は3コース以上連続して構成されることがより好ましい。コースBが同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成される場合、各コースに含まれる糸が異なっていてもよい。
<Course B>
Course B includes knit and tuck. Course B may include a knit structure other than knit and tuck, but is preferably composed of only knit and tuck (see FIG. 4). By having course B composed of only knit and tuck structures, the number of tuck stitches that form the undulations of the needle loop surface increases, improving the design of the weft knitted fabric.
Course B may be composed of only one course, or may be composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave (see FIG. 4). From the viewpoint of achieving a basis weight suitable for wear while increasing the undulations due to tuck knitting, course B is preferably composed of two or more consecutive courses, and more preferably composed of two or three or more consecutive courses. When course B is composed of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
<コースC>
コースCは、ニットとウェルトを含む。コースCは、ニットとウェルト以外の編み組織を含んでいてもよいが、ニットとウェルトのみから構成されることが好ましい(図4参照)。コースCがニットとウェルトのみで構成されることにより、コースCの糸長が小さくなり、コースCのニードルループが小さくなり、コースAとコースBによって形成されるタック編みとの編目のサイズ差が大きくなるため、ニードルループ面に形成される起伏が大きくなる。
さらに、前記コースCに弾性糸を含む。コースCに弾性糸を含むことで、弾性糸の収縮によりコースCの編目が小さくなり(図4参照)、突起を形成する編目との大きさに差が生じ、ニードルループ面の起伏が大きくなる。さらに、コースCは、ウェルトがシンカーループ面において他の糸との接触点が少なく糸の自由度が高いため(図4参照)、コースCに弾性糸を含むことで弾性糸の伸縮性が十分に発揮され、伸長回復性が向上する。
<Course C>
Course C includes knit and welt. Course C may include a knit structure other than knit and welt, but is preferably composed of only knit and welt (see FIG. 4). By having course C composed of only knit and welt, the yarn length of course C becomes smaller, the needle loops of course C become smaller, and the difference in stitch size between course A and the tuck knit formed by course B becomes larger, so that the undulations formed on the needle loop surface become larger.
Furthermore, the course C includes an elastic yarn. By including the elastic yarn in the course C, the stitches of the course C become smaller due to contraction of the elastic yarn (see FIG. 4), causing a difference in size between the stitches forming the protrusions and the stitches, and increasing the undulations of the needle loop surface. Furthermore, in the course C, the welt has few contact points with other yarns on the sinker loop surface, and the degree of freedom of the yarn is high (see FIG. 4), so including the elastic yarn in the course C allows the elasticity of the elastic yarn to be fully exerted, improving the stretch recovery.
コースCは、1コースのみで構成されても、同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成されてもよい。コースCは、ウェルト同士の重なりによるウェルトのシンカーループへの突出を抑制してシンカーループ面の滑らかさを向上させる観点から、1~3コースで構成されることが好ましい。コースCが同一組織で2コース以上連続して構成される場合、各コースに含まれる糸が異なっていてもよい。 Course C may consist of only one course, or two or more consecutive courses of the same weave. From the viewpoint of suppressing the protrusion of the welts into the sinker loop due to overlapping of the welts and improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface, it is preferable that course C consists of one to three courses. When course C consists of two or more consecutive courses of the same weave, the yarns contained in each course may be different.
<コースA~Cの配列>
本実施形態の緯編地は、コースA、コースB、コースCがこの順で編み終わり方向に繰り返されている。例えば、本実施形態の緯編地は、編始めから編み終わりにかけて、A、B、C、A・・・というように編立してよく、A、B、B、C、A・・・やA、B、B、C、C、A・・・というように、コースA、コースB、コースCのうちいずれか1以上のコースが複数のコースからなって編立してもよい(表1~5、図6参照)。
<Arrangement of courses A to C>
In the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment, course A, course B, and course C are repeated in this order toward the end of knitting. For example, the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment may be knitted in the order of A, B, C, A... from the beginning to the end of knitting, or one or more of course A, course B, and course C may be knitted from a plurality of courses, such as A, B, B, C, A... or A, B, B, C, C, A... (see Tables 1 to 5 and FIG. 6).
<タック編み>
本実施形態の緯編地は、同一ウェール上にコースAのニットとコースBのタックとが連続することにより、タック編みを形成する(図4左側のウェール参照)。本実施形態の編地は、タック編みを形成することで、ニードルループ面に大きな起伏を形成する。
<Tuck knitting>
In the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment, a tuck knit is formed by continuing a knit of course A and a tuck of course B on the same wale (see the wale on the left side of Fig. 4). In the knitted fabric of this embodiment, a large undulation is formed on the needle loop surface by forming a tuck knit.
本実施形態の緯編地は、コースAのニットとコースBのタックにより形成されるタック編みとコースCのウェルトとが少なくとも1か所以上で同一ウェール上に連続している(図4左側のウェール参照)。前記タック編みとコースCのウェルトとが少なくとも1か所以上で同一ウェール上に連続することで、コースAとコースBによって形成されたタック編みが大きくなるため、ニードルループ面の起伏が大きくなり、また、コースAとコースBによって形成されたシンカーループ面の窪みをシンカーループ面に配置されたコースCのウェルト組織が埋める構造をとることにより、シンカーループ面の平滑性が高くなる。同様の観点より、本実施形態の緯編地においては、1完全組織において、タック編みの総数に対する、コースCのウェルトと同一ウェール上に連続しているタック編みの数の割合が50%以上であることが好ましく、100%であることがより好ましい。尚、1完全組織とは、編地を構成する編組織の最小の繰り返し単位のことを指す。尚、本実施形態の緯編地において「1完全組織におけるタック編みの総数」を構成するタック編みは、コースBのみならず、コースA及び/又はコースCに含まれるものであることができる。 In the weft knit of this embodiment, the tuck stitch formed by the knit of course A and the tuck of course B and the welt of course C are continuous on the same wale at least in one place (see the wale on the left side of Figure 4). By having the tuck stitch and the welt of course C be continuous on the same wale at least in one place, the tuck stitch formed by course A and course B becomes large, so the undulations of the needle loop surface become large, and the welt structure of course C arranged on the sinker loop surface fills the depressions on the sinker loop surface formed by course A and course B, so the smoothness of the sinker loop surface increases. From the same perspective, in the weft knit of this embodiment, in one complete structure, the ratio of the number of tuck stitches that are continuous on the same wale as the welt of course C to the total number of tuck stitches is preferably 50% or more, and more preferably 100%. Note that one complete structure refers to the smallest repeating unit of the knitting structure that constitutes the knitted fabric. In addition, in the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment, the tuck stitches that make up the "total number of tuck stitches in one complete structure" can be included not only in course B, but also in course A and/or course C.
<コースAのループ長LAに対するコースCのループ長LCの比の値>
本実施形態の緯編地は、コースAのループ長LAに対するコースCのループ長LCの比の値(LC/LA)が、0.50~0.95であり、0.60~0.90であることが好ましく、0.68~0.85であることがより好ましい。前記LC/LAが0.50以上であることにより、コースCのニードルループが小さくなりすぎることが無いため、着用に適したストレッチ性を得ることが可能となる。また、前記LC/LAが0.95以下であることより、ニードルループ面においてはコースAとコースCによって形成されるニードルループのサイズに差が生じ、起伏を形成することができ、またシンカーループ面においてはコースCのシンカーループがシンカーループ面に突出することが無いため、滑らかさに優れたものとなる。前記LC/LAを0.50~0.95に調整するための方法は、特に限定されるものではないが、例えば、コースAのニットの数を多くすることや、コースCのニットの数を少なくするといった方法が挙げられる。
<Ratio of loop length LC of course C to loop length LA of course A >
In the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment, the ratio (L C /L A ) of the loop length L C of course C to the loop length L A of course A is 0.50 to 0.95, preferably 0.60 to 0.90, and more preferably 0.68 to 0.85. When the L C /L A is 0.50 or more, the needle loops of course C do not become too small, so that it is possible to obtain stretchability suitable for wearing. Furthermore, when the L C /L A is 0.95 or less, a difference occurs in the size of the needle loops formed by course A and course C on the needle loop surface, and undulations can be formed, and the sinker loop of course C does not protrude into the sinker loop surface on the sinker loop surface, so that the fabric has excellent smoothness. The method for adjusting the L C /L A to 0.50 to 0.95 is not particularly limited, but examples thereof include a method of increasing the number of knits in course A and a method of decreasing the number of knits in course C.
<非弾性糸>
本実施形態の緯編地は全てのコースに非弾性糸を含む。
非弾性糸としては天然繊維、合成繊維、再生(精製)セルロース繊維等を用いることが可能である。天然繊維としては、綿、麻、絹、羊毛等が例示される。合成繊維としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート等のポリエステル繊維、ナイロン6やナイロン66等のポリアミド繊維、ポリエチレンやポリプロピレン等のポリオレフィン繊維等が例示され、これらのブライト糸、セミダル糸、フルダル糸等任意に選択でき、繊維の断面形状も丸型、楕円型、W型、繭型、中空糸等任意な断面形状であることができ、繊維の形態についても特に限定されず、原糸、仮撚等の捲縮糸であってもよい。再生(精製)セルロース繊維としては、レーヨンやキュプラ、リヨセル等が例示される。再生(精製)セルロース繊維は、原糸、撚糸として単一糸の形態であることができ、また、以下に例示する合成繊維との複合糸の形態であってもよい。
<Non-elastic yarn>
The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment contains inelastic yarn in all courses.
As the inelastic yarn, natural fibers, synthetic fibers, regenerated (refined) cellulose fibers, etc. can be used. Examples of natural fibers include cotton, hemp, silk, wool, etc. Examples of synthetic fibers include polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyamide fibers such as
再生(精製)セルロース繊維と合成繊維との複合糸の形態は特に限定されず、インターレースによる複合や合撚による複合など、用途に合わせた複合方法を選択すればよい。セルロース繊維と合成繊維との複合糸の繊度は19~90dtexが好ましい。再生(精製)セルロース繊維と合成繊維との複合糸の繊度を上記範囲とすることにより、曲げ柔らかさに優れ、薄手で暑熱環境下における着用感に優れた編地を得やすい。 The form of the composite yarn of regenerated (refined) cellulose fiber and synthetic fiber is not particularly limited, and a composite method such as interlacing or twisting may be selected according to the application. The fineness of the composite yarn of cellulose fiber and synthetic fiber is preferably 19 to 90 dtex. By setting the fineness of the composite yarn of regenerated (refined) cellulose fiber and synthetic fiber within the above range, it is easy to obtain a knitted fabric that is excellent in bending softness, thin, and comfortable to wear in hot environments.
<弾性糸>
本実施形態の緯編地は、コースCに弾性糸を含み、かつ、コースA又はコースBのいずれかのコースに、好ましくはコースBに、弾性糸を含む。本実施形態の緯編地は、上記のコースA、コースB、及びコースCの構成を備えたうえで弾性糸を含むことで、弾性糸の収縮によるニードルループ面の平坦化を抑えつつ緯編地に伸縮性を付与することが可能となる。
<Elastic Yarn>
The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment includes an elastic yarn in course C, and also includes an elastic yarn in either course A or course B, preferably course B. The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment includes an elastic yarn in addition to having the configurations of course A, course B, and course C described above, and thus it is possible to impart stretchability to the weft knitted fabric while suppressing flattening of the needle loop surface due to contraction of the elastic yarn.
本実施形態の緯編地は、コースAが弾性糸を含まない、すなわち非弾性糸のみからなることが好ましい。コースAが非弾性糸のみからなることにより、ニードルループを収縮させることなくタック編みを形成できるため、ニードルループ面において、より大きな起伏を形成しやすく、さらに、タック編みの編目が閉塞しにくくなり空気が通りやすくなるため、緯編地の速乾性が向上する。 In the weft knit fabric of this embodiment, it is preferable that course A does not contain elastic yarn, i.e., is made only of inelastic yarn. By having course A made only of inelastic yarn, tuck stitches can be formed without shrinking the needle loops, making it easier to form larger undulations on the needle loop surface, and furthermore, the stitches of the tuck stitches are less likely to close, allowing air to pass through more easily, improving the quick-drying properties of the weft knit fabric.
本実施形態の編地は、コースBが2コース以上連続する場合、編み終わり側のコースに弾性糸を含むことが好ましい。本実施形態の編地は、コースBにおいて編み終わり側のコースに弾性糸を含むことで、ニードルループの収縮を最小限に抑えることができるため、弾性糸によるニードルループ面の平坦化を抑制しやすい。また、本実施形態の編地は、コースBにおいて編み終わり側のコースに弾性糸を含むことで、編始め側のコースに弾性糸を含む場合と比較して、ニードルループ中にて弾性糸を固定する非弾性糸の本数が少なくなるため、弾性糸が変形しやすくなり、着用に適した伸度と回復性を得やすい。 When course B is two or more consecutive courses, the knitted fabric of this embodiment preferably includes an elastic yarn in the course on the end side of knitting. By including an elastic yarn in the course on the end side of knitting in course B, the knitted fabric of this embodiment can minimize the shrinkage of the needle loop, making it easier to prevent the flattening of the needle loop surface due to the elastic yarn. Furthermore, by including an elastic yarn in the course on the end side of knitting in course B, the knitted fabric of this embodiment has fewer inelastic yarns that secure the elastic yarn in the needle loop compared to when elastic yarn is included in the course on the start side of knitting, so the elastic yarn is more easily deformed and it is easier to obtain stretch and recovery suitable for wearing.
弾性糸の素材や紡糸方法は特に限定されず、ポリウレタン系、ポリエーテルエステル系の弾性糸を使用することができ、また、例えば、乾式紡糸又は溶融紡糸したものが使用できる。弾性糸は、染色加工時のプレセット工程の通常処理温度である180℃近辺で伸縮性を損なわないことが好ましい。弾性糸は、高セット性、消臭性、抗菌性等の目的に応じた機能性を付与するために、特殊ポリマーや無機物等の機能化剤を含有してもよい。弾性糸の繊度は9~155dtexであることが好ましく、緯編地製造の容易さの観点からは15~80dtexであることがより好ましい。 The material of the elastic yarn and the spinning method are not particularly limited, and polyurethane-based or polyether ester-based elastic yarns can be used, and for example, dry-spun or melt-spun yarns can be used. It is preferable that the elastic yarn does not lose its elasticity at around 180°C, which is the normal processing temperature for the presetting step during dyeing processing. The elastic yarn may contain functionalizing agents such as special polymers or inorganic substances to impart functionality according to the purpose, such as high setting ability, deodorizing properties, and antibacterial properties. The fineness of the elastic yarn is preferably 9 to 155 dtex, and more preferably 15 to 80 dtex from the viewpoint of ease of manufacturing the weft knitted fabric.
本実施形態の緯編地は、弾性糸として、非弾性糸によって被覆されていない裸糸(ベア糸)や、裸糸が非弾性糸によって被覆されているカバーリング糸を含むことが可能であるが、生地裏面の平滑性を高めるという観点からは、裸糸(ベア糸)が好ましい。また、弾性糸として裸糸を用いた緯編地は、運動時や暑熱環境下での着用における大量の発汗に対する汗処理に関しては、弾性糸の周囲に水分が残りにくく、編地の乾燥が速くなり、着用においてより快適となりやすい。さらに、弾性糸として裸糸を用いた緯編地は、カバーリング糸と比較して裸糸の繊維径が細いため、ニードルループ面に凹凸を形成しにくくなり、より滑らかな風合いとなる。 The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment can include, as the elastic yarn, a bare yarn (bare yarn) that is not covered by a non-elastic yarn, or a covering yarn in which a bare yarn is covered by a non-elastic yarn, but from the viewpoint of increasing the smoothness of the back surface of the fabric, a bare yarn (bare yarn) is preferable. Furthermore, in a weft knitted fabric using bare yarn as the elastic yarn, moisture is less likely to remain around the elastic yarn when dealing with sweat generated in large amounts during exercise or when worn in a hot environment, and the knitted fabric dries faster, making it more comfortable to wear. Furthermore, in a weft knitted fabric using bare yarn as the elastic yarn, the fiber diameter of the bare yarn is smaller than that of a covering yarn, so that unevenness is less likely to form on the needle loop surface, resulting in a smoother texture.
弾性糸としてカバーリング糸を用いる場合、カバーリング糸としてはシングルカバードヤーン(SCY)やダブルカバードヤーン(DCY)を用いることができ、カバーリング糸としての総繊度が30~200dtexであることが好ましく、編地製造の容易さの観点からは40~155dtexであることがより好ましい。 When using a covering yarn as the elastic yarn, a single covered yarn (SCY) or a double covered yarn (DCY) can be used as the covering yarn, and the total fineness of the covering yarn is preferably 30 to 200 dtex, and from the viewpoint of ease of knitted fabric production, 40 to 155 dtex is even more preferable.
本実施形態の編地は、ストレッチ性の付与とニードルループ面の起伏を大きくする観点から、弾性糸の混率が5.0質量%以上であることが好ましい。 In the knitted fabric of this embodiment, from the viewpoint of imparting stretchability and increasing the undulations of the needle loop surface, it is preferable that the blending ratio of elastic yarn is 5.0% by mass or more.
<その他好ましい態様>
本実施形態の緯編地において、コースAに含まれる最も繊度の大きい非弾性糸の繊度FAに対する、コースCに含まれる最も繊度の大きい非弾性糸の繊度FCの比の値(FC/FA)が、好ましくは1.0未満、より好ましくは0.20~0.98、さらに好ましくは0.25~0.93、最も好ましくは0.30~0.90である。前記FC/FAが0.20以上であることにより、コースCによって形成される糸がコースAとコースBによってシンカーループ面に形成される窪みを埋める構造となり、シンカーループ面を平滑としやすい。また、前記FC/FAが1.0未満であることにより、コースCのウェルトがシンカーループ面に突出することを抑制できるため、シンカーループ面の平滑性が向上し、さらに、ニードルループ面の起伏が大きくなる。
<Other preferred aspects>
In the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment, the ratio (F C /F A ) of the fineness F C of the largest inelastic yarn included in course C to the fineness F A of the largest inelastic yarn included in course A is preferably less than 1.0, more preferably 0.20 to 0.98, even more preferably 0.25 to 0.93, and most preferably 0.30 to 0.90. When the F C /F A is 0.20 or more, the yarn formed in course C fills the depression formed on the sinker loop surface by courses A and B, making it easy to smooth the sinker loop surface. Furthermore, when the F C /F A is less than 1.0, the welt of course C can be prevented from protruding onto the sinker loop surface, improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface and increasing the undulations of the needle loop surface.
本実施形態の編地において、コースCに含まれる非弾性糸が長繊維であることが好ましい。コースCに長繊維を用いることで、編成時の編針との摩擦抵抗が小さくなり、同一繊度の短繊維と比較してより小さい糸長で編成可能なため、より小さい編目を得ることができ、ニードルループ面の起伏をより大きくすることが可能となる。また、コースCに長繊維を用いることで、シンカーループ面の毛羽が少なくなり、平滑性が向上する。 In the knitted fabric of this embodiment, it is preferable that the inelastic yarn contained in course C is a long fiber. By using long fibers in course C, frictional resistance with the knitting needles during knitting is reduced, and knitting is possible with a smaller yarn length compared to short fibers of the same fineness, resulting in smaller stitches and making it possible to increase the undulations of the needle loop surface. In addition, by using long fibers in course C, fuzz on the sinker loop surface is reduced, improving smoothness.
コースCに含まれる非弾性糸の単糸繊度は、ウェルトで糸が座屈してシンカーループ面へ突出することを抑制して平滑性を向上させる観点から、3.0dtex以下であることが好ましく、2.5dtex以下であることが好ましく、さらに好ましくは1.8dtex以下である。さらに、コースCに含まれる非弾性糸の単糸繊度が3.0dtex以下であることで、コースCのウェルトがシンカーループ面に突出しにくいため、タック編みが形成するシンカーループ面の窪みへコースCのウェルトが確実に配置され、シンカーループ面の平滑性が大きく向上する。 The single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in course C is preferably 3.0 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, and even more preferably 1.8 dtex or less, from the viewpoint of preventing the yarn from buckling at the welt and protruding onto the sinker loop surface and improving smoothness. Furthermore, since the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in course C is 3.0 dtex or less, the welt of course C is less likely to protrude onto the sinker loop surface, so that the welt of course C is reliably positioned in the depression on the sinker loop surface formed by the tuck knitting, greatly improving the smoothness of the sinker loop surface.
コースBが2コース以上連続する場合、編み終わり側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸の繊度(FBE)に対する、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸の繊度(FBS)の比の値(FBS/FBE)が、好ましくは1.0未満、より好ましくは0.20~0.95、さらに好ましくは0.25~0.90である。前記FBS/FBEが1.0未満であることにより、タック編み中における前記2つの非弾性糸の配置が安定するため、生地の目付を低減することが可能であり、かつニードルループ面の起伏が小さくならない。 When course B is two or more consecutive courses, the ratio (F BS /F BE ) of the fineness (F BS ) of the inelastic yarn in the course at the start of knitting to the fineness (F BE ) of the inelastic yarn in the course at the end of knitting is preferably less than 1.0, more preferably 0.20 to 0.95, and even more preferably 0.25 to 0.90. When F BS /F BE is less than 1.0, the arrangement of the two inelastic yarns during tuck knitting is stable, making it possible to reduce the basis weight of the fabric and preventing the undulations of the needle loop surface from becoming small.
コースBの編み終わり側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸の繊度は、200dtex以下及び/又は長繊維であることが好ましい。コースBの編み終わり側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸は、最もシンカーループ面側へ編成されるため、200dtex以下及び/又は長繊維であることにより、シンカーループ面が平滑となりやすい。尚、コースBが1コースのみからなる場合、該1コースが前記「編み終わり側のコース」になる。 The fineness of the inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting end side of course B is preferably 200 dtex or less and/or long fiber. The inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting end side of course B is knitted closest to the sinker loop surface side, so by having a fineness of 200 dtex or less and/or long fiber, the sinker loop surface tends to be smooth. If course B consists of only one course, that one course becomes the "course on the knitting end side".
コースBにおいて、編み終わり側のコースBに含まれる非弾性糸の単糸繊度は、糸が座屈してシンカーループ面へ突出することを抑制して平滑性を向上させる観点から、好ましくは3.0dtex以下、より好ましくは2.5dtex以下、さらに好ましくは1.8dtex以下である。 In course B, the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn included in course B on the knitting end side is preferably 3.0 dtex or less, more preferably 2.5 dtex or less, and even more preferably 1.8 dtex or less, from the viewpoint of preventing the yarn from buckling and protruding onto the sinker loop surface and improving smoothness.
コースAに含まれる最も繊度の大きい非弾性糸の繊度FAに対する、コースBにおける、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸の繊度FBSの比の値(FBS/FA)は、1.00未満であることが好ましく、0.90以下であることがより好ましい。前記FBS/FAが1.00未満であることで、ニードルループ面の起伏が小さくならず、生地の目付を低減することが可能となり、速乾性に優れた編地を得られる。 The ratio (F BS /F A ) of the fineness F BS of the inelastic yarn included in the start course of knitting in course B to the fineness F A of the largest inelastic yarn included in course A is preferably less than 1.00, and more preferably 0.90 or less. When F BS /F A is less than 1.00, the undulations of the needle loop surface do not become small, making it possible to reduce the basis weight of the fabric and providing a knitted fabric with excellent quick-drying properties.
本実施形態の緯編地において、ニードルループ面の光沢を抑え、カジュアルな衣服により好適な緯編地とする目的がある場合は、コースA及び/又はコースBに含まれる非弾性糸は短繊維であることが好ましく、特にセルロース繊維であることが好ましい。また、同様の観点より、コースBにおいて、編み始め側のコースに含まれる非弾性糸が短繊維であることが好ましい。 In the weft knit of this embodiment, if the objective is to suppress the gloss of the needle loop surface and to make the weft knit more suitable for casual clothing, the inelastic yarn contained in course A and/or course B is preferably a staple fiber, and in particular, a cellulose fiber. From the same viewpoint, it is also preferable that the inelastic yarn contained in the course on the knitting start side in course B is a staple fiber.
本実施形態の緯編地は、シングル緯編地であることが好ましい。シングル緯編地とは、シングル緯編機で編成される編地のことを指し、ニードルループ面とシンカーループ面を有する単層の編地である。本実施形態の緯編地はシングル緯編地であることにより、必要最低限の糸量で意匠性に富んだ凹凸を表現しながらも、生地目付を低減することが可能となるため、意匠性と着用感に優れた編地を得ることが可能となる。 The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is preferably a single weft knitted fabric. A single weft knitted fabric refers to a fabric knitted on a single weft knitting machine, and is a single-layered fabric having a needle loop surface and a sinker loop surface. Because the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is a single weft knitted fabric, it is possible to reduce the fabric weight while expressing decorative unevenness with the minimum necessary amount of yarn, thereby making it possible to obtain a knitted fabric with excellent design and wearing comfort.
本実施形態の緯編地は、該編地の経方向及び/又は緯方向の14.7N荷重時の伸長率が、好ましくは30%以上、より好ましくは40%以上、さらに好ましくは50%以上である。経方向、及び/又は緯方向の伸長率が30%以上であれば、衣服としたときに人の動きを阻害することが無いため、動作快適性に優れた衣服とすることができる。 The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment preferably has an elongation rate of 30% or more in the warp and/or weft directions at a load of 14.7 N, more preferably 40% or more, and even more preferably 50% or more. If the elongation rate in the warp and/or weft directions is 30% or more, the fabric will not hinder human movement when worn as clothing, and therefore can provide clothing with excellent movement comfort.
本実施形態の緯編地は、該編地の経方向及び/又は緯方向の伸長回復率が、好ましくは40%以上、より好ましくは50%以上、さらに好ましくは60%以上である。経方向、及び/又は緯方向の伸長回復率が40%以上であれば、衣服としたときに繰り返し着用した後であっても形態を保つことができ、製品寿命を延ばすことにつながる。 The weft knitted fabric of this embodiment has a stretch recovery rate in the warp and/or weft directions of preferably 40% or more, more preferably 50% or more, and even more preferably 60% or more. If the stretch recovery rate in the warp and/or weft directions is 40% or more, the fabric can retain its shape even after repeated wearing when made into clothing, which leads to an extended product life.
本実施形態の緯編地の目付は、好ましくは130g/m2~250g/m2、より好ましくは190g/m2~230g/m2である。目付が130g/m2以上であれば、衣服とした時の破裂強度が向上し、実着用上好ましい編地となる。また、目付が250g/m2以下であれば、編地が厚くなりすぎることがなく、製品のシルエットを保つために必要な適度な固さを持った編地が得られ、例えばポロシャツとしての着用に適した編地となる。 The basis weight of the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is preferably 130 g/m 2 to 250 g/m 2 , more preferably 190 g/m 2 to 230 g/m 2. If the basis weight is 130 g/m 2 or more, the burst strength of the fabric when made into a garment is improved, resulting in a fabric that is preferable for practical wear. Also, if the basis weight is 250 g/m 2 or less, the knitted fabric will not be too thick, and a knitted fabric with the appropriate stiffness required to maintain the silhouette of the product will be obtained, resulting in a knitted fabric that is suitable for wearing, for example, as a polo shirt.
本実施形態の緯編地の厚みは、好ましくは0.40mm~1.50mm、より好ましくは0.60mm~1.40mmである。厚みが0.50mm以上であれば、着用時の透けや強度に問題なく、また、1.50mm以下であれば、編地が厚くなりすぎることがなく、製品のシルエットを保つために必要な適度な固さを持った編地が得られ、例えばアウターとしての着用に適した編地となる。 The thickness of the weft knitted fabric in this embodiment is preferably 0.40 mm to 1.50 mm, and more preferably 0.60 mm to 1.40 mm. If the thickness is 0.50 mm or more, there will be no problems with transparency or strength when worn, and if the thickness is 1.50 mm or less, the knitted fabric will not be too thick and will have the appropriate stiffness necessary to maintain the silhouette of the product, making it suitable for wearing as an outerwear, for example.
本実施形態の緯編地を得るために使用される編機は特に限定されず、編機のゲージについては任意に選択可能であるが、20~44ゲージ程度の編機の使用が好ましい。20~44ゲージの編機であれば、ループサイズが小さくなりすぎることを防ぎながら、柄表現に適した繊度の糸を編立できるため、適切なストレッチ性と意匠性を両立しやすい。 The knitting machine used to obtain the weft knitted fabric of this embodiment is not particularly limited, and the gauge of the knitting machine can be selected as desired, but it is preferable to use a knitting machine with a gauge of about 20 to 44. A knitting machine with a gauge of 20 to 44 can knit yarn with a fineness suitable for pattern expression while preventing the loop size from becoming too small, making it easier to achieve both appropriate stretchability and design.
本実施形態の緯編地は、染色加工されていてもよい。染色仕上げ方法としては、通常の染色仕上工程が使用でき、使用する繊維素材に応じた染色条件とし、使用する染色機も液流染色機、ウインス染色機、パドル染色機などの任意の使用が可能である。また、吸水性や柔軟性を向上させる加工剤を使用することができる。柔軟剤としては、シリコン系やウレタン系、エステル系の柔軟剤を用いることができ、濃度としては求められる編地の風合いに応じて適宜選択すればよいが、0.1%owf~2.0%owfの範囲であれば、曲げ柔らかさが良好となり編目間の摩擦が低減されることによりソフトストレッチ性と回復性を付与することが可能である。 The weft knit of this embodiment may be dyed. As a dyeing and finishing method, a normal dyeing and finishing process can be used, with dyeing conditions according to the fiber material used, and any dyeing machine such as a jet dyeing machine, winch dyeing machine, or paddle dyeing machine can be used. In addition, a processing agent that improves water absorption and softness can be used. As a softener, a silicone-based, urethane-based, or ester-based softener can be used, and the concentration can be selected appropriately according to the desired texture of the knitted fabric. If the concentration is in the range of 0.1% owf to 2.0% owf, bending softness is good and friction between the stitches is reduced, making it possible to impart soft stretchability and recovery.
<用途>
本実施形態の編地はニードルループ面の大きな起伏による意匠性とシンカーループ面の平滑性が優れるため、肌に直接触れ、かつ意匠性が要求される繊維製品、例えば、シャツ、インナーウェア、ボトムウェア、ジャケット、マスク等の繊維製品に好適に利用可能であり、特にシャツ用途として好適に利用可能である。
<Applications>
The knitted fabric of this embodiment has excellent design due to the large undulations on the needle loop surface and smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and is therefore suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottom wear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。無論、本発明はこれらの実施例のみに限定されるものではない。
以下、実施例等で用いた特性値の測定法を示す。尚、測定に用いる編地は、衣料から切り出された編地であるが、本発明は衣料となっていない編地をも包含し、用途は衣料に限られるものではない。
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, although it is to be understood that the present invention is not limited to these examples.
The methods for measuring the characteristic values used in the examples are described below. The knitted fabrics used in the measurements are knitted fabrics cut out from clothing, but the present invention also includes knitted fabrics that are not made into clothing, and the applications are not limited to clothing.
(1)目付(g/m2)
編地の目付を、JIS-L-1096の標準状態における単位面積当たりの質量A法(JIS法)に準じて測定する。
(1) Weight per unit area (g/ m2 )
The weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is measured in accordance with the mass per unit area method A (JIS method) under standard conditions of JIS-L-1096.
(2)厚み(mm)
編地の厚みを、PEACOCK社製編地用厚み計にて、編地の任意の位置5か所を測定し、5か所の平均値を算出する。
(2) Thickness (mm)
The thickness of the knitted fabric is measured at five arbitrary positions on the knitted fabric using a PEACOCK knitted fabric thickness meter, and the average value of the five positions is calculated.
(3)速乾性(60分後残水率)
15cm×15cmにカットした編地を試験片とした。試験片1枚と、JIS L 1930附属書HのIII型適合品負荷布との合計が1.0kgとなるよう負荷布の量を調整し、負荷布と共に家庭用洗濯機で40℃のお湯で15分×10回の洗濯を実施した後、試験片を平干しした。
前記試験片を20℃、相対湿度65%環境下において24時間調湿する。同環境下において、測定用カップ(直径8cm、高さ10cm 円柱状ポリプロピレン製)の質量(Wc)を測定し、次いで上述の調湿した試験片をカップに入れ、カップと試験片の質量(Wc+t)を測定する。続けて、マイクロピペッターを用いて300μlの純水を生地シンカーループ面へ滴下し、直ちに質量(Wc+t+w)を記録する。そして、滴下した水の質量(Ww)を以下の式:
Ww=Wc+t+w-Wc+t
より算出する。
次に、生地をカップに入れたまま60分静置し、生地を乾燥させた後、カップと生地の重量(Wc+t´)を測定し、以下の式:
60分後残水率(%)=(Wc+t´-Wc+t)/Ww×100
より60分後残水率を算出する。60分後残水率が小さいほど、速乾性に優れた編地となる。
(3) Quick drying (residual water rate after 60 minutes)
The knitted fabric cut to 15 cm x 15 cm was used as a test piece. The amount of the load cloth was adjusted so that the total weight of one test piece and the load cloth conforming to JIS L 1930 Annex H Type III was 1.0 kg, and the test piece was washed together with the load cloth in a domestic washing machine with hot water at 40°C for 15 minutes x 10 times, and then the test piece was dried flat.
The test piece is conditioned for 24 hours at 20°C and 65% relative humidity. In the same environment, the mass ( Wc ) of a measuring cup (
W w =W c+t+w -W c+t
Calculated from.
Next, the dough was left in the cup for 60 minutes, and the dough was dried. After that, the weight of the cup and the dough (W c + t ') was measured and calculated by the following formula:
Residual water rate after 60 minutes (%)=(W c+t ′-W c+t )/W w ×100
The smaller the water retention rate after 60 minutes, the more quick-drying the knitted fabric is.
(4)ループ長
編地の任意の1完全組織において、該1完全組織の全コースについて、それぞれのコース中における100ウェール分の範囲を裁断、解編し、それぞれの糸を抜き出し、20℃65%の標準環境にて、以下方法によって糸長の測定を行う。
伸度100%未満の糸:解編して得られた非弾性糸の片端を固定して吊り下げ、反対側の端に以下に示す糸種に応じた所定の荷重をかけ、30秒後の長さを測定する。単位はmm/100wとして表記している。尚、非弾性糸と弾性糸の複合糸については、本方法によりループ長を測定する。
<糸種に応じた所定の荷重>
合成繊維の伸縮かさ高糸、非弾性糸と弾性糸の複合糸:8.82mN/dtex
その他非弾性糸:2.94mN/dtex
弾性糸:解編して得られた弾性糸の片端を固定して吊り下げ、該弾性糸がほぼ直線状になっていることを確認し、その状態での長さを測定する。単位はmm/100wとして表記している。
(4) Loop Length In any one complete structure of the knitted fabric, for all courses of the one complete structure, an area of 100 wales in each course is cut and unknitted, and each yarn is extracted, and the yarn length is measured in a standard environment of 20°C and 65% by the following method.
Yarn with elongation less than 100%: One end of the inelastic yarn obtained by unraveling is fixed and hung, and a specific load is applied to the other end according to the type of yarn shown below, and the length is measured after 30 seconds. The unit is expressed as mm/100w. For composite yarns of inelastic yarn and elastic yarn, the loop length is measured by this method.
<Prescribed load according to yarn type>
Synthetic elastic bulky yarn, composite yarn of inelastic yarn and elastic yarn: 8.82 mN/dtex
Other non-elastic yarns: 2.94 mN/dtex
Elastic yarn: One end of the elastic yarn obtained by unraveling is fixed and hung, and it is confirmed that the elastic yarn is almost straight, and the length in this state is measured. The unit is expressed as mm/100w.
(5)伸長率、及び伸長回復率
JIS-L1096-8.16.2-B-1法(定荷重法)によって、編地経方向(ウェル方向)、緯方向(コース方向)それぞれの伸長率と伸長回復率を測定する。尚、荷重は14.7Nとする。
(5) Elongation and Elongation Recovery Rate The elongation and elongation recovery rate in the warp direction (weave direction) and weft direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric are measured according to JIS-L1096-8.16.2-B-1 method (constant load method). The load is 14.7 N.
(6)ニードルループ面の起伏の大きさ及びシンカーループ面の平滑性(起伏指数)
編地のウェール方向に対して45°傾いた方向が長さ方向となるように、巾50mm×長さ200mmの大きさで試験片を採取する。前記試験片のニードルループ面及びシンカーループ面について、トリニティラボ社製の静・動摩擦測定機トライボマスターType:TL201Tsを使用して、以下の条件にて、試験片の長さ方向に沿って、編終わり側から編始め側(逆目)に向けて摩擦する。 ・摩擦子:WC-Co系合金タイプ(主素材:タングステンカーバイド)、厚み0.5mm×巾5.0mm
・測定荷重:3.75g
・摩擦速度:30mm/秒
・摩擦子移動距離:70.0mm
・測定間隔:1.0ミリ秒
(6) The degree of undulations on the needle loop surface and the smoothness of the sinker loop surface (undulation index)
A test piece is taken with a width of 50 mm and a length of 200 mm so that the direction inclined at 45° to the wale direction of the knitted fabric is the length direction. The needle loop surface and sinker loop surface of the test piece are rubbed from the end of the knitting to the start of the knitting (reverse grain) along the length direction of the test piece using a static and dynamic friction measuring device Tribomaster Type: TL201Ts manufactured by Trinity Labs under the following conditions. Friction element: WC-Co alloy type (main material: tungsten carbide), thickness 0.5 mm x width 5.0 mm
Measurement load: 3.75 g
・Friction speed: 30mm/sec ・Friction element movement distance: 70.0mm
Measurement interval: 1.0 milliseconds
緯編地の異なる場所から4つの試験片を採取し、試験片ごとに5回の測定を行う(ニードルループ面及びシンカーループ面それぞれ計20回ずつ)。解析には解析アプリケーション「Tribo analysis soft ver.6.02」を使用する。具体的には、測定開始後0.52秒~2.08秒の区間を計測区間として選択し、動摩擦係数μKの標準偏差(μKSD)を求め、以下の式によって、20回の動摩擦係数μKSDの測定における起伏指数(UI)を算出する。UIの値が大きいほど測定面の起伏が大きい。
以下、ニードルループ面、及びシンカーループ面の起伏指数を、それぞれ、UIN、及びUISと表記する。UINが1.10以上であるとニードルループ面に任意の柄を表現できる起伏が形成されていると言える。UISが1.30以下であるとシンカーループ面が肌と触れた際の摩擦が少なくなるため、着用快適性に優れた編地であると言える。 Hereinafter, the undulation indexes of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface are denoted as UI N and UI S , respectively. If UI N is 1.10 or more, it can be said that the needle loop surface has undulations that can express any pattern. If UI S is 1.30 or less, friction when the sinker loop surface comes into contact with the skin is reduced, so that the knitted fabric has excellent wearing comfort.
[実施例1~16、比較例1~6]
シングル編機を用いて、以下の表に記載のゲージ、組織、糸使い、にて編地を編成し、生機を得た。前記生機を連続精練機でリラックス、精練を行い、次いで、190℃で1分間プレセットを行った。染色時に柔軟剤ニッカシリコンAMZ(日華化学株式会社)1.0%owfを加えた状態で染色を実施し、170℃で1分の条件で仕上げセットを行って、編地を作製した。評価結果を以下の表1~5に示す。
以下の表1~5において、Nyはナイロン、Petはポリエステル、Coは綿、Puはポリウレタン弾性糸、SCYはシングルカバードヤーン、Kはニット、Tはタック、Wはウェルトを意味する。ポリエステル及びナイロンについて、例えば、220dtex48fという表記は、総繊度220デシテックス・48フィラメントを意味する。綿について、例えば26/1という表記は、26綿番手・単糸を意味する。尚、特に断りがない限り、ポリウレタン弾性糸はベアを使用している。SCYとして、2.4倍に伸長した22dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸を33dtex34fのポリエステル繊維で1000T/mで巻回したものを用いている。「コース番号」は、1完全組織における、コースの編立順序を意味し、コース番号が小さいコースを編始め側とする。「針番号」は、1完全組織における、編み針の配列を意味し、番号が小さい編み針から順次編み立てられる。
[Examples 1 to 16, Comparative Examples 1 to 6]
A single knitting machine was used to knit a knitted fabric with the gauge, structure, and yarn usage shown in the table below to obtain a grey fabric. The grey fabric was relaxed and scoured in a continuous scouring machine, and then pre-set at 190°C for 1 minute. Dyeing was performed with the addition of 1.0% owf of fabric softener Nikka Silicone AMZ (Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.), and finishing set was performed at 170°C for 1 minute to produce a knitted fabric. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1 to 5 below.
In the following Tables 1 to 5, Ny means nylon, Pet means polyester, Co means cotton, Pu means polyurethane elastic yarn, SCY means single covered yarn, K means knit, T means tuck, and W means welt. For polyester and nylon, for example, 220 dtex 48f means 220 decitex total fineness and 48 filaments. For cotton, for example, 26/1 means 26 cotton count and single yarn. Unless otherwise specified, bare polyurethane elastic yarn is used. For SCY, 22 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn stretched 2.4 times is wound with 33 dtex 34f polyester fiber at 1000 T/m. "Course number" means the knitting order of courses in one complete structure, and the course with the smaller course number is the knitting start side. "Needle number" means the arrangement of knitting needles in one complete structure, and knitting is performed in order from the knitting needle with the smaller number.
本発明に係る緯編地は、ストレッチ性があり、シンカーループ面の滑らかさに優れ、かつニードルループ面の起伏が大きいため、肌に直接触れ、かつ意匠性が要求される繊維製品、例えば、シャツ、インナーウェア、ボトムウェア、ジャケット、マスク等の繊維製品に好適に利用可能であり、特にシャツ用途として好適に利用可能である。 The weft knitted fabric of the present invention has stretchability, excellent smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and large undulations on the needle loop surface, making it suitable for use in textile products that come into direct contact with the skin and require design, such as shirts, innerwear, bottomwear, jackets, masks, etc., and is particularly suitable for use in shirts.
NL ニードルループ
SL シンカーループ
OL オールドループ
N ニット
T タック
W ウェルト
NL Needle Loop SL Sinker Loop OL Old Loop N Knit T Tuck W Welt
Claims (18)
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| JPS5883487U (en) * | 1981-12-03 | 1983-06-06 | 帝人株式会社 | Single knitted fabric |
| JPS58197353A (en) * | 1982-05-12 | 1983-11-17 | 株式会社大営メリヤス | Fleecy kanoko knitted fabric and circular knitting machine for knitting same |
| JPS5959950A (en) * | 1982-09-22 | 1984-04-05 | ザ・ケンド−ル・カンパニ− | Knit structure |
| JPS6052983U (en) * | 1983-09-19 | 1985-04-13 | 東レ株式会社 | single knitted fabric |
| JPH03128606U (en) * | 1990-04-11 | 1991-12-25 | ||
| WO2020045531A1 (en) * | 2018-08-28 | 2020-03-05 | 旭化成株式会社 | Weft-knitted fabric |
| JP2022156969A (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2022-10-14 | 旭化成株式会社 | Single weft knitted fabric |
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