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WO2024167037A1 - Composition de produit cosmétique pour amélioration de la barrière cutanée et de l'hydratation de la peau, et son procédé de production - Google Patents

Composition de produit cosmétique pour amélioration de la barrière cutanée et de l'hydratation de la peau, et son procédé de production Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024167037A1
WO2024167037A1 PCT/KR2023/001870 KR2023001870W WO2024167037A1 WO 2024167037 A1 WO2024167037 A1 WO 2024167037A1 KR 2023001870 W KR2023001870 W KR 2023001870W WO 2024167037 A1 WO2024167037 A1 WO 2024167037A1
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weight
skin
parts
cosmetic composition
skin barrier
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Korean (ko)
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박현우
김주형
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Innored Ldt
Organic Bridge Co Ltd
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Innored Ldt
Organic Bridge Co Ltd
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing and a method for producing the same.
  • Dry skin is known to be caused by changes that occur throughout all layers of the skin, including the epidermis and dermis, and in particular, changes that occur in the stratum corneum, which acts as an epidermal barrier, are considered an important factor, and the trend is increasing due to factors such as accumulated external stimuli such as age, gender, specific area, continuous environmental stimuli, and increased stress. Areas with dry skin have damaged barrier function of the stratum corneum, so external irritants or antigens can easily pass through, which can cause a vicious cycle of skin symptoms.
  • ceramide one of the lipid components that plays an important role in the barrier function of the stratum corneum, and structures or dispersion systems of amphiphilic lipids such as liposomes, liquid crystals, gels, and multi-lamellar emulsions that utilize it to form structures in the stratum corneum and surface to retain moisture and enable the absorption and penetration of useful substances are attracting attention.
  • the stratum corneum the outermost layer of the skin epidermis, is composed of keratinocytes and skin lipids.
  • Skin lipids are responsible for the important function of controlling keratinocyte cell division and differentiation, protecting the skin from external harmful substances, preventing the outflow of internal substances, and preventing moisture evaporation from the skin, by forming a layered complex with mainly ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and contributing to the function of maintaining moisture, intercellular adhesion, or as a barrier against external stimuli.
  • compositions in cosmetics that mix ceramide with intercellular lipid components such as cholesterol or fatty acids to form a multilayer lamellar structure similar to the layered lipid structure of the stratum corneum of the skin.
  • the ingredients are mixed to be similar to the lipid layered structure of the stratum corneum of the skin, there is a problem that the desired multilayered lamellar structure is not properly formed, or even when the lamellar structure is formed during the manufacturing stage, the lamellar structure is easily destroyed under various storage conditions such as seasonal temperature changes.
  • the size of the formed droplets is uneven, or even when droplets with an even size distribution are formed during the manufacturing stage, there is a problem that the size of the droplets changes, such as coalescence between droplets under various storage environments, and the skin absorption power is reduced due to this.
  • Patent Document 1 Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-1987167
  • the present invention has been made in consideration of the above points, and the purpose of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier and skin moisturizing ability, which forms micro droplets having a lamellar structure including an effective ingredient similar to the lipid layer structure and components of the stratum corneum of the skin, thereby improving the skin barrier and enhancing skin moisturizing ability, and a method for producing the same.
  • the present invention has another purpose of providing a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing, which can maintain function and excellent absorbency into the skin for a long period of time by minimizing changes in the lipid layer structure of the lamellar structure implemented during manufacturing and the size of the implemented droplets under various conditions before use for a long period of time after manufacturing, and a method for manufacturing the same.
  • the present invention provides a method for producing a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier and moisturizing, comprising the steps of: (1) introducing a first phase including an aqueous plant extract and a mixed fermentation filtrate into a reactor and heating it to 68 to 80°C, (2) introducing a second phase including a first functional component including ceramide, glycosphingolipid, and cholesterol, a second functional component including beta-glucan, and an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based component into the reactor and mixing the first and second phases, (3) mixing a functional organic solvent mixture in a reactor cooled to 35 to 40°C and then cooling and defoaming to 20 to 30°C to produce a raw material composition, (4) heating the raw material composition to 55 to 65°C and then nanoemulsifying it, and (5) cooling to a temperature of 15°C or lower.
  • the aqueous plant extract may include 96.5 to 98.0 wt% of green tea water, 0.8 to 1.8 wt% of purslane leaf water, and 0.8 to 1.8 wt% of lavender flower water based on the total weight of the aqueous plant extract.
  • the mixed fermentation filtrate may include bifida fermentation filtrate, galactomyces fermentation filtrate, lactobacillus fermentation filtrate, and yeast fermentation filtrate in a weight ratio of 1: 0.8 to 1:2: 0.8 to 1:2: 0.8 to 1:2.
  • the functional organic solvent mixture may include propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and ethylhexylglycerin.
  • the second functional ingredient may include 28 to 35 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 to 35 parts by weight of fructan, and 25 to 35 parts by weight of fucoidan per 100 parts by weight of beta-glucan.
  • the emulsifier is included in an amount of 38 to 50 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the first functional ingredient, the lecithin-based component is hydrogenated lecithin, and the emulsifier may further include sucrose stearate and polyglutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1500 Da.
  • the emulsifier may include 20 to 30 parts by weight of sucrose stearate and 2.5 to 5.0 parts by weight of poly-gamma-glutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1500 Da per 100 parts by weight of hydrogenated lecithin.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier and moisturizing, comprising a first functional component including ceramide, glycosphingolipid and cholesterol, a second functional component including beta-glucan, a mixed fermentation filtrate, an aqueous plant extract, an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based component, a functional organic solvent and a residual amount of purified water, and comprising a plurality of droplets having a dispersed average diameter of 500 nm or less.
  • a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier and moisturizing comprising a first functional component including ceramide, glycosphingolipid and cholesterol, a second functional component including beta-glucan, a mixed fermentation filtrate, an aqueous plant extract, an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based component, a functional organic solvent and a residual amount of purified water, and comprising a plurality of droplets having a dispersed average diameter of 500 nm or less.
  • the composition may include 0.5 to 2.5 wt% of the first functional component, 0.9 to 1.5 wt% of the second functional component, and 1.7 to 2.5 wt% of the mixed fermentation filtrate relative to the total weight.
  • the emulsifier is included in an amount of 38 to 50 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the first functional ingredient, and the lecithin-based component is hydrogenated lecithin.
  • the emulsifier may further include sucrose stearate and polyglutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1500 Da.
  • the method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for improving the skin barrier and skin moisturizing forms micro droplets having a lamellar structure by including an effective ingredient similar to the lipid layer structure and components of the stratum corneum of the skin, thereby improving the skin barrier and enhancing skin moisturizing power.
  • the lipid layer structure of the lamellar structure realized during manufacturing and the size of the realized droplets are minimized during storage in various conditions before use for a long time after manufacturing, the function can be maintained and excellent absorbency into the skin can be maintained for a long time.
  • it since it has excellent antioxidant and skin soothing effects without causing skin trouble, it can be widely applied to various types of cosmetics, hair products such as shampoos and rinses, and skin ointments.
  • a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing can be manufactured by the steps of: (1) introducing a first phase including an aqueous plant extract and a mixed fermentation filtrate into a reactor and heating it to 68 to 80°C, (2) introducing a second phase including a first functional component including ceramide, glycosphingolipid, and cholesterol, a second functional component including beta-glucan, and an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based component into the reactor and mixing the first phase and the second phase, (3) mixing a functional organic solvent mixture in a reactor cooled to 35 to 40°C and then cooling and defoaming to 20 to 30°C to manufacture a raw material composition, (4) heating the raw material composition to 55 to 65°C and then nanoemulsifying it, and (5) cooling to a temperature of 15°C or lower.
  • step (1) a first phase including an aqueous plant extract and a mixed fermentation filtrate is introduced into a reactor, and a step of increasing the temperature to 68 to 80°C is performed.
  • the first phase is an aqueous phase, containing aqueous plant extracts and mixed fermentation filtrate.
  • aqueous plant extracts are those that exert a solvent and skin-improving effect in the composition, and may include green tea water, centella asiatica leaf water, and lavender flower water, and more preferably, may include 96.5 to 98.0 wt% of green tea water, 0.8 to 1.8 wt% of centella asiatica leaf water, and 0.8 to 1.8 wt% of lavender flower water based on the total weight of the aqueous plant extracts, and through this, it may be advantageous to achieve skin improvements such as skin barrier, skin moisturizing, skin tone, and skin soothing.
  • the aqueous plant extract may be contained in an amount of 68 wt% or more based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and may be contained to account for the remaining wt% of the total weight of the composition other than the compositions described below when purified water is not included.
  • the aqueous plant extract may be contained in an amount of 68 to 75 wt%, and the remaining amount may be contained as purified water, but is not limited thereto, and the ratio of the aqueous plant extract and purified water may vary depending on the purpose.
  • the above-described aqueous plant extract may be extracted from hot water using a known extraction method, for example, water as an extraction solvent, or may be extracted by a low-temperature critical extraction method.
  • a manufacturing method by a low-temperature critical extraction method will be described.
  • Dried green tea leaves, purslane leaves, and lavender flowers are each mixed with distilled water in an ultra-high-speed vacuum low-temperature extractor at a weight ratio of 1:1 to 30, preferably 1:3 to 25, and then extracted at about 60 to 80°C for 8 to 12 hours to manufacture a primary extract. Then, the obtained primary extract is placed in a vacuum low-temperature extractor, concentrated and cooled, and the obtained secondary extract is used as it is as an aqueous plant extract, or the secondary extract may be diluted in water.
  • the mixed fermentation filtrate is obtained by mixing fermentation filtrates obtained by filtering the fermentation product produced after culturing with different strains
  • the fermentation filtrate may include bifida fermentation filtrate, galactomyces fermentation filtrate, lactobacillus fermentation filtrate, and yeast fermentation filtrate.
  • the above Bifida Ferment Filtrate is a cosmetic raw material listed in ICID, and is a substance obtained by sterilizing and filtering a culture cultured using Bifidobacterium, a type of bacteria existing in the digestive system.
  • the Bifida Ferment Filtrate is an ingredient that helps with cell regeneration and barrier strengthening, and activates oxygen supply to the skin. By strengthening the skin barrier, it improves rough skin and controls the skin rhythm, improves skin tone, supplies moisture and nutrients, and provides a refreshing spreadability without stickiness. In addition, it is used as a cosmetic raw material to eliminate toxicity. Since the above Bifida Ferment Filtrate can be used as a commercialized one, a detailed description of the manufacturing method is omitted.
  • the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is a substance fermented and then filtered using Galactomyces yeast, also called Pitera.
  • Galactomyces is a yeast of the genus Saccharomyces
  • the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate used in the present invention helps convert profilaggrin, a precursor of a natural moisturizing factor (NMF), into a natural moisturizing factor, thereby maintaining skin moisture.
  • NMF natural moisturizing factor
  • the polysaccharide component contained in Galactomyces prevents moisture from evaporating from the skin surface, so that the skin does not dry out and an excellent skin moisturizing effect can be obtained.
  • the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate can be manufactured using a conventional manufacturing method, and a commercial product can also be used. For example, during manufacturing, a culture of Galactomyces strains cultured at 15 to 20°C for 2 to 3 days can be used at a concentration of 0.001 to 1% after sterilization and membrane filtration.
  • the Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate is a substance filtered by sterilizing and filtering a culture cultured using a strain belonging to Lactobacillus.
  • the Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate effectively acts on skin whitening by inhibiting melanin production, and can also function to enhance skin immunity and alleviate skin inflammation.
  • the Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate may be a filtrate of a culture cultured using one or more strains selected from the group consisting of Lactobacillus sakei B2-16, Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus plantarum P23, and Lactococcus lactis A164.
  • the above Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate can be manufactured using a conventional method, and commercial products can also be used, so a description of the specific manufacturing method is omitted.
  • the above-mentioned fermentation filtrate is a fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces, a natural yeast used in making bread or beer, and is rich in amino acids, nucleic acids, peptides, minerals, and vitamins.
  • the yeast fermentation filtrate contains a natural moisturizing factor NMF and contains 30% of amino acids, 15% of nucleic acids, and 30% or more of peptides.
  • the nucleic acids are known to be essential components of skin cell metabolism, reactivate skin cells, and make the skin soft and shiny.
  • the yeast fermentation filtrate can be manufactured using a conventional method, and commercial products can also be used, so a description of a specific manufacturing method is omitted.
  • the above mixed fermentation filtrate can be contained in an amount of 1.7 to 2.5 wt% based on the weight of the entire cosmetic composition.
  • the above-described bifida fermentation filtrate, galactomyces fermentation filtrate, lactobacillus fermentation filtrate, and yeast fermentation filtrate can be contained in a weight ratio of 1: 0.8 to 1:2: 0.8 to 1:2: 0.8 to 1:2, thereby effectively obtaining various skin improvement effects such as skin regeneration, moisturizing, soothing, skin immunity enhancement, skin inflammation relief, and skin barrier improvement.
  • aqueous plant extract and mixed fermentation filtrate are heated to 68 to 80°C after being introduced into the reactor, through which mixing and water-in-water emulsification can be smoothly performed in the second phase of step (2) described below. If the temperature of the reactor is lower than 68°C, miscibility between the compositions is not achieved well, making it difficult for the first functional component to form a smooth lamellar structure, and there is a risk of phase separation of the composition. In addition, if the temperature exceeds 80°C, there may be problems with preservative properties and/or formulation stability.
  • a step of mixing the first phase and the second phase is performed by introducing a first functional component including ceramide, glycosphingolipid and cholesterol, a second functional component including beta-glucan, and a second phase including an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based component into the reactor.
  • the second phase is an oil phase that has little or no miscibility with the first phase, and includes a first functional ingredient that has a direct effect of improving the skin barrier, a second functional ingredient that has an effect of improving skin moisturizing and helps improve and strengthen the skin barrier through the first functional ingredient, and an emulsifier that can emulsify the first functional ingredient so that it has a stable lamellar structure in the first phase and has droplets of an appropriate size.
  • the above first functional component includes ceramide, glycosphingolipid and cholesterol, which correspond to components constituting intercellular lipids, and may further include known components known to constitute intercellular lipids.
  • the above ceramide is a component known to play a very important role in the barrier function of the stratum corneum, and plays a role in strengthening the skin barrier function by forming a lamellar structure in which water and lipids are alternately repeated together with glycosphingolipids and cholesterol.
  • the ceramide may be isolated from a living body or may be synthesized with a similar structure.
  • the ceramide may be known to be used in cosmetic products without limitation, and may include at least one selected from the group consisting of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide EOH, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, ceramide AH, ceramide NH, and ceramide EOP, and may include ceramide NP, which is known to be effective in improving the skin barrier.
  • the cholesterol and glycosphingolipid are lipid components known to form a lamellar structure with the ceramide described above, and in order to form a stable lamellar structure, cholesterol and glycosphingolipid may be included in an amount of 15 to 30 parts by weight, respectively, per 100 parts by weight of ceramide.
  • the first functional ingredient may be included in an amount of 0.5 to 2.5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and thereby is advantageous in exhibiting a significant effect on improving the skin barrier.
  • the emulsifier includes a lecithin-based component as a component that helps the first functional component in the first phase described above to form stable and appropriately sized droplets while having a lamellar structure and to maintain the same for a long period of time.
  • the lecithin-based component may be hydrogenated lecithin, and may further include sucrose stearate and polyglutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1,500 Da, and through the mixed use of these three components, the first functional component in the first phase can form a stable lamellar structure for a long time, and can increase emulsification stability for a long time even under various storage conditions, and can be advantageous in preventing change in the size of the droplets.
  • the carboxyl group of sucrose stearate and polyglutamic acid forms a strong hydrogen bond with the carbonyl group of the amide group of ceramide, thereby easily forming a lamellar structure and advantageous in maintaining stability.
  • the weight average molecular weight of polyglutamic acid is important, and more preferably, the weight average molecular weight is 700 to 1500 Da, and more preferably, the weight average molecular weight is 700 to 1000 Da, so that the desired effect described above can be achieved.
  • the weight average molecular weight of polyglutamic acid is less than 700 Da, it may be difficult to stably maintain the lamellar structure or maintain the size of the implemented droplets in various storage environments, and if the weight average molecular weight exceeds 1500 Da, it may be difficult to stably form droplets having a lamellar structure in the first phase, and there is a concern that the droplet size may not be uniform, such as when excessively large droplets are mixed.
  • sucrose stearate is a known ingredient as a cosmetic raw material, such as a skin conditioning agent and surfactant, and may be a monoester mixture of stearic acid and sucrose, and a commercialized one may be used.
  • polyglutamic acid is called poly-gamma-glutamic acid
  • poly-gamma-glutamic acid is a mucous amino acid polymer in which glutamic acid is linked via a gamma bond, and is produced in a Bacillus genus strain.
  • Poly-gamma-glutamic acid that is usually obtained has a high molecular weight of 200 kDa or more, and is known to have effects such as moisturizing the skin, preventing skin aging, and maintaining pH balance.
  • one embodiment of the present invention uses poly-gamma-glutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1500 Da, not high molecular weight poly-gamma-glutamic acid, as an emulsifier, and although regular high molecular weight poly-gamma-glutamic acid can help moisturize the skin, it is difficult to exhibit the effects as an emulsifier described above.
  • poly-gamma-glutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1,500 Da can be separated and obtained by molecular weight through a known method such as GPC (Gel Permeation Column), after purifying a poly-gamma-glutamic acid-containing sample solution obtained by culturing a Bacillus subtilis cheonggukjang strain to separate poly-gamma-glutamic acid, and the present invention is not particularly limited thereto.
  • GPC Gel Permeation Column
  • the emulsifier may be included in an amount of 38 to 50 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the first functional ingredient, and more preferably, the emulsifier may include 20 to 30 parts by weight of sucrose stearate and 2.5 to 5.0 parts by weight of polyglutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 700 to 1500 Da per 100 parts by weight of hydrogenated lecithin.
  • the skin barrier improvement may be minimal or the skin barrier improvement function may be deteriorated due to decreased storage stability in various environments and fluctuations in skin absorption rate due to this, fluctuations in the layered structure of the first functional ingredient to be absorbed, etc.
  • the second functional ingredient has an effect of improving skin moisturizing and is a component that helps improve and strengthen the skin barrier through the first functional ingredient, and includes beta-glucan, and preferably may further include 28 to 35 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 25 to 35 parts by weight of fructan, and 25 to 35 parts by weight of fucoidan per 100 parts by weight of beta-glucan.
  • the above beta-glucan is known to promote the production of major cytokines related to the immune system and to have an immune-enhancing effect. When applied to the skin, it can strengthen the skin immune system, provide moisture and moisturizing functions deep into the skin, and provide skin protection and skin soothing functions.
  • the sodium hyaluronate is one of the natural moisturizing ingredients, and is an ingredient called hyaluronic acid. It is a representative moisturizing ingredient that fills the space between collagen and elastin in the skin and prevents moisture evaporation.
  • the above fructan is a homopolymer of fructose and has excellent moisture retention capacity, thereby improving skin moisturizing ability.
  • the above fucoidan is a type of polysaccharide secreted from brown algae among seaweeds, and is a substance that collectively refers to polysaccharides containing sulfate groups.
  • the above fucoidan is known to perform the functions of moisturizing living tissue, healing wounds, and preventing inflammation.
  • fucoidan when fucoidan is mixed with ceramide that forms a lamellar structure, it exhibits a synergistic effect in improving the skin barrier and moisturizing effect, which is an effect that is not known as an effect of fucoidan.
  • fucoidan is used together with lipids such as ceramide or cholesterol that do not form a lamellar structure, it is difficult for the above-mentioned synergistic effect to be exhibited.
  • the second functional ingredient described above may be contained in an amount of 0.9 to 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and may include 28 to 35 wt% of sodium hyaluronate, 25 to 35 wt% of fructan, and 25 to 35 wt% of fucoidan relative to 100 wt% of beta-glucan in the second functional ingredient, thereby advantageously expressing the effect of the second functional ingredient described above.
  • step (3) a step of preparing a raw material composition is performed by mixing a functional organic solvent mixture in a reactor cooled to 35 to 40°C, then cooling and defoaming to 20 to 30°C.
  • the above functional organic solvent acts as a solvent in a cosmetic composition while also having antibacterial and antioxidant functions
  • the mixture of the organic solvents may include propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and ethylhexylglycerin.
  • Each of these organic solvents can perform the role of a solvent for the first and/or second phase components described above as a main or secondary function, while also exhibiting the effect of an antibacterial and antioxidant as a main function, or exhibiting the effect of boosting the antibacterial and antioxidant effects as a secondary function, so that antibacterial performance can be exhibited without containing a separate preservative. In addition, it can help add moisturizing power.
  • the functional organic solvent mixture can preferably be contained in the cosmetic composition at 2.8 to 5.0 wt%.
  • it may contain 10 to 20 parts by weight of propanediol, 15 to 30 parts by weight of butylene glycol, 6 to 18 parts by weight of 1,2-hexanediol, and 0.5 to 2 parts by weight of ethylhexylglycerin per 100 parts by weight of pentylene glycol, but is not limited thereto.
  • the functional organic solvent mixture may be mixed after the reactor temperature has been cooled to 35 to 40°C, which may be advantageous in preventing a decrease in miscibility due to partial vaporization of the functional organic solvent.
  • the mixture may be cooled to 20 to 30°C after being mixed, which may be advantageous in stably maintaining the raw material composition in an emulsified state in water.
  • Step (4) is a step of pulverizing the emulsified droplets so that the average diameter, which is the size of the emulsified droplets, is, for example, 500 nm or less.
  • the temperature is raised to 55 to 65°C to weaken the hydrogen bonds of the droplets, for example, the ceramide forming the lamellar structure, and nanoemulsification is performed.
  • nanoemulsification it is advantageous for nanoemulsification to be performed so that the size of the droplets becomes 500 nm or less while having the lamellar structure. If the temperature is performed above 65°C, there is a concern that the ratio of droplets having the lamellar structure may decrease as the droplets are formed while the lamellar structure itself is collapsed.
  • the step (4) above can be performed using a known device capable of nanoemulsifying, for example, an ultra-high pressure dispersion device can be used, and specifically, it can be performed by stirring at a pressure of 900 to 1,200 bar for 20 to 60 minutes, and at this time, the inlet temperature of the device can be maintained at 55 to 65°C.
  • a known device capable of nanoemulsifying for example, an ultra-high pressure dispersion device can be used, and specifically, it can be performed by stirring at a pressure of 900 to 1,200 bar for 20 to 60 minutes, and at this time, the inlet temperature of the device can be maintained at 55 to 65°C.
  • step (5) a step of cooling the nanoemulsified cosmetic composition to a temperature of 15°C or lower is performed.
  • the nanoemulsified cosmetic composition can be implemented so that the average diameter of the droplets is 500 nm or less, preferably 310 nm or less.
  • the temperature is not cooled to 15°C or lower in step (5), there is a concern that coalescence of the implemented droplets may occur, and thus it may be difficult to implement a nanoemulsion having an average diameter of the droplets of 500 nm or less, or the size of the implemented droplets may be non-uniform, resulting in reduced skin absorbability.
  • the cooling temperature in step (5) may be, for example, 2°C or higher, 4°C or higher, or 6°C or higher.
  • a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing implemented through the above-described manufacturing method comprises a first functional ingredient including ceramide, glycosphingolipid, and cholesterol, a second functional ingredient including beta-glucan, a mixed fermentation filtrate, an aqueous plant extract, an emulsifier containing a lecithin-based ingredient, a functional organic solvent, and a residual amount of purified water, and since the average diameter of the droplets is formed to be 500 nm or less, the composition has excellent skin absorbency, acts on the stratum corneum and can greatly help improve the skin barrier and enhance skin moisturizing, and has effects such as removing dead skin cells, soothing the skin, relieving skin inflammation, and alleviating sebum, and thus causes less skin trouble and can be suitable for use by various age groups.
  • the cosmetic composition described above can be formulated by a conventional method and composition.
  • a skin external preparation reference can be made to the contents disclosed in Remington's Pharmaceutical Science, Mack Publishing Company, Easton PA, and for the formulation of a cosmetic composition, reference can be made to the contents disclosed in International cosmetic ingredient dictionary, 6th ed (The cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, 1995).
  • the cosmetic composition can be prepared as a general emulsified formulation and a solubilized formulation.
  • the cosmetic composition can be formulated as a toner such as a flexible toner or a nourishing toner; an emulsion such as a facial lotion or a body lotion; a cream such as a nourishing cream, a moisture cream, or an eye cream; an essence; a cosmetic ointment; a spray; a gel; a pack; a sunscreen; a makeup base; a foundation such as a liquid type, a solid type, or a spray type; a powder; a makeup remover such as a cleansing cream, a cleansing lotion, or a cleansing oil; or a cleanser such as a cleansing foam, a soap, or a body wash, but is not limited thereto.
  • the cosmetic composition can be formulated as an ointment, a patch, a gel, a cream, or a spray, but is not limited thereto.
  • the cosmetic composition may include a commonly acceptable carrier, such as oil, water, a surfactant, a lower alcohol, a thickener, a chelating agent, a pigment, a preservative, a fragrance, etc., but is not limited thereto.
  • a commonly acceptable carrier such as oil, water, a surfactant, a lower alcohol, a thickener, a chelating agent, a pigment, a preservative, a fragrance, etc., but is not limited thereto.
  • Green tea water, purslane leaf water, and lavender flower water were prepared as aqueous plant extracts as follows, and 97.8 wt% of green tea water, 1.1 wt% of purslane leaf water, and 1.1 wt% of lavender flower water were mixed relative to the total weight of the aqueous plant extracts to prepare an aqueous plant extract.
  • Dried green tea leaves (Camellia Sinensis Leaf) were placed in an ultra-high-speed vacuum low-temperature extractor (Kyungseo Machinery, COSMOS-660) and distilled water at a weight ratio of 1:20, and extracted at approximately 75°C for 5 hours to obtain green tea water.
  • This green tea water was placed again in a vacuum low-temperature extractor, concentrated and cooled, and then stored in the refrigerator (approximately 3°C).
  • Dried centella asiatica leaves (Centella Asiatica Leaf) were added to distilled water in a weight ratio of 1:3 in an ultra-high-speed vacuum low-temperature extractor (Kyungseo Machinery, COSMOS-660), extracted at approximately 80°C for 10 hours, and centella asiatica leaf water was obtained. Afterwards, it was placed back into the vacuum low-temperature extractor, concentrated, cooled, and stored in the refrigerator (approximately 3°C).
  • Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) flowers were dried in an ultra-high-speed vacuum low-temperature extractor (Kyungseo Machinery, COSMOS-660) and distilled water at a weight ratio of 1:1, extracted at approximately 75 to 77°C for 10 hours to obtain lavender flower water. Afterwards, the flowers were placed in the vacuum low-temperature extractor again, concentrated, cooled, and stored in a refrigerator (approximately 3°C).
  • Bifida fermentation filtrate As a mixed fermentation filtrate, Bifida fermentation filtrate, Galactomyces fermentation filtrate, Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate, and Yeast fermentation filtrate were mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1:1:1 to prepare it.
  • Bifida fermentation filtrate, Galactomyces fermentation filtrate, Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate, and Yeast fermentation filtrate were purchased and used as commercially available ones.
  • Lactobacillus fermentation filtrate was purchased and used by mixing the fermentation filtrates of three species: breast milk lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus reuteri), kimchi lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus brevis), and cheese lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus casei) in a weight ratio of 1:1:1.
  • glycosphingolipid 20 parts by weight of glycosphingolipid and 20 parts by weight of cholesterol were mixed with 100 parts by weight of ceramide NP.
  • L-Fucoidan (Haerim Fucoidan Co., Ltd.) extracted from the sporophyll of Wando-san seaweed was used, and the L-Fucoidan used had an average molecular weight of 223,130 Da and a sulfate group content of 25.5%.
  • sucrose stearate 24.4 parts by weight of sucrose stearate and 3.6 parts by weight of polyglutamic acid having a weight average molecular weight of 1000 Da were mixed with 100 parts by weight of hydrogenated lecithin to prepare the mixture.
  • polyglutamic acid was inoculated with 2% of the culture solution of Bacillus subtilis var chungkookjang (KCTC 0697BP) into a 5 L fermenter containing 3 L of the basic medium for poly-gamma-glutamic acid production (medium supplemented with 5% L-glutamic acid; Glucose 5%, ( NH4 )2SO4 1 %, KH2PO4 0.27 % , Na2HPO4 ⁇ 12H2O 0.42%, NaCl 0.9%, MgSO4 ⁇ 7H2O 0.3%, Vitamin solution 5 ml/L, pH 6.8), and the culture was cultured at 37°C for 80 hours at a stirring speed of 150 rpm and an air injection rate of 1.2 vvm.
  • KCTC 0697BP Bacillus subtilis var chungkookjang
  • the cell was removed using a filter press to obtain a sample solution containing poly-gamma-glutamic acid. After adding 2 N sulfuric acid solution to the sample solution and leaving it at 8°C for 18 hours, a poly-gamma-glutamic acid precipitate was obtained. After washing this with a sufficient amount of distilled water, poly-gamma-glutamic acid was obtained using a Nutsche filter.
  • a functional organic solvent 13 parts by weight of propanediol, 20 parts by weight of butylene glycol, 10 parts by weight of 1,2-hexanediol, and 0.9 parts by weight of ethylhexylglycerin were mixed with 100 parts by weight of pentylene glycol.
  • a first phase containing purified water, an aqueous plant extract prepared in Preparation Example 1, and a mixed fermentation filtrate prepared in Preparation Example 2 was introduced into a reactor, and the temperature was raised to 70°C. Thereafter, a second phase containing a first functional ingredient prepared in Preparation Example 3, a second functional ingredient prepared in Preparation Example 4, and an emulsifier prepared in Preparation Example 5 was introduced into the reactor, and the first and second phases were mixed. Thereafter, the reactor temperature was cooled to 35°C, the functional organic solvent mixture prepared in Preparation Example 6 was mixed in, and then cooled to 30°C and defoamed to prepare a raw material composition.
  • the raw material composition was introduced into an ultra-high pressure dispersion device, and nanoemulsified at an inlet temperature of 60°C, a pressure of 1000 bar, and a stirring time of 30 minutes.
  • the nanoemulsified composition was discharged through an outlet set to 12°C, and a cosmetic composition stored at the same temperature was obtained.
  • the final manufactured cosmetic composition contained 70 wt% of an aqueous plant extract, 1.8 wt% of a mixed fermentation filtrate, 1.1 wt% of a first functional ingredient, 1.3 wt% of a second functional ingredient, 0.62 wt% of an emulsifier, 3.4 wt% of a functional organic solvent mixture, and the remainder was purified water.
  • a cosmetic composition was prepared by performing the same procedure as in Example 1, except that fucoidan was omitted from the second functional ingredient in Preparation Example 4, and mixing was performed so that the mixing ratios of Example 1 and the Preparation Examples were the same.
  • a cosmetic composition was obtained by mixing the same method as in Example 1, except that fucoidan and fructan were omitted from the second functional ingredient in Preparation Example 4, so that the mixing ratios of Example 1 and the Preparation Examples were the same.
  • a cosmetic composition was prepared by performing the same procedure as in Example 1, except that polyglutamic acid and sucrose stearate were omitted from the emulsifier in Preparation Example 5, and mixing was performed so that the mixing ratios of Example 1 and the Preparation Examples were the same.
  • a cosmetic composition was obtained by manufacturing in the same manner as in Example 1, but setting the outlet temperature to 20°C after nanoemulsification.
  • lamellar structures were observed using an OLYMPUS BX50 polarizing microscope by examining the presence or absence of optical anisotropy and the clarity (sharp or unclear) of the maltese pattern.
  • the size of the droplets in the water-emulsion was measured using a nanoparticle size analyzer (Nano ZS, Malvern Instrument Ltd., Malvern, UK) after diluting to an appropriate concentration to prevent multiple scattering.
  • the skin clinical trial was conducted by requesting OATC Skin Clinical Trial Center.
  • a total of 20 subjects (women aged 20 to 60, average age 46.32 years) participated in the test.
  • the test method was to wipe the flat area of the back of the subject, excluding the spine, with 70% ethanol to remove any pigmentation or skin damage, dry it, load 20 ⁇ l of the test product, fix it on the skin, apply it for 24 hours, and perform an evaluation 30 minutes and 24 hours after removing the patch.
  • the presence or absence of irritation was determined by applying a visual evaluation by a dermatologist and the Frosch & Kligman, CTFA guideline, and Draize methods.
  • the skin irritation index calculation formula is as follows: Equation 1. Irritation according to the skin irritation index is as follows: 0.00 ⁇ 0.25 non-irritating, 0.26 ⁇ 1.00 weakly irritating, 1.01 ⁇ 2.50 moderately irritating, and 2.51 ⁇ 4.00 strongly irritating. It has been decided.
  • the subjects were adult volunteers with healthy skin, and their ages ranged from 30 to 45 years old, with an average age of 38 years. Five subjects were assigned to each sample of the Examples and Comparative Examples so that their average ages were similar.
  • the sample was applied to the left arm in an amount of 3 mg/cm2, and the same amount of purified water was applied to the opposite right arm as a control. After self-treatment twice a day, in the morning and afternoon, the transepidermal water loss and skin hydration effects were measured after 1 week and 2 weeks, as follows.
  • transepidermal water loss and skin hydration effects were measured using the following method.
  • Transepidermal Water Loss is the amount of water radiated from the skin and is an indicator of the skin barrier function.
  • TEWAMETER TM210 the test area is held horizontally and the probe is placed in vertical contact with the skin of the test area.
  • the two humidity (probe) sensors located above and below the probe measure the transepidermal water loss based on the "water vapor gradient" between the skin surface and the surrounding air. The measurements were repeated three times in the same area and the average value was taken.
  • the electrostatic capacitance of the skin surface was measured using CORNEOMETER CM825. Specifically, a probe with a diameter of 6 mm (probe) was placed vertically on the skin at a constant pressure on the measurement area, and the electrical capacitance of the contacting area was measured to measure the moisture content of the skin surface. The average value was taken after performing the test three times.
  • Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Lamellar structure formation Clear observation of anisotropy Clear observation of anisotropy Clear observation of anisotropy There are many areas where anisotropy is not clearly observed, and the pattern is formed unevenly. Clear observation of anisotropy Average droplet diameter (nm) 283.4 291.0 270.5.
  • Comparative Example 1 formed droplets having a lamellar structure, but since the droplet size exceeded 500 nm, absorption was not performed properly, resulting in greater transepidermal water loss compared to the examples, and thus, it can be seen that improvement in the skin barrier was minimal.
  • Example 4 since the lamellar structure was not properly formed, the transepidermal water loss was greater than in Example 1, and the skin moisturizing performance was also poor.
  • Examples 2 and 3 that did not include fucoidan showed greater transepidermal water loss and decreased skin moisturizing performance compared to Example 1, which confirms that the second functional ingredient affects skin barrier improvement. Meanwhile, the transepidermal water loss of Examples 3 and 2 that did not include either fructan or fucoidan was similar, which indicates that although fructan has a minimal effect on skin barrier improvement, there was a large difference in skin moisturizing performance, which confirms that the simultaneous use of fucoidan and fructan has a synergistic effect on skin moisturizing.
  • a cosmetic composition for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the emulsifier of Preparation Example 5 was changed as in Table 2 below.
  • the cosmetic composition was manufactured as in Table 2 below for improving skin barrier and skin moisturizing.
  • the lamellar structure formation and droplet size analysis of Experimental Example 1 were performed in the same manner, but in order to evaluate the storage stability, the temperature profile was set to have a heating/cooling temperature change of 20°C -> 50°C -> 20°C for 1 day, and after storing in a cycling incubator for 10 weeks, the lamellar structure and droplet size were analyzed, and the results are shown in Table 2 below.
  • Example 1 Example 4
  • Example 5 Example 6
  • Example 7 polyglutamic acid Inclusion/MW(Da) Included/1000 Not included Not included Included/300 Included/2500 Sucrose stearate include Not included include include include save 0 days Lamellar structure formation Clear observation of anisotropy There are many areas where anisotropy is not clearly observed, and the pattern is formed unevenly. Clear observation of anisotropy Clear observation of anisotropy Clear observation of anisotropy Average droplet diameter (nm) 283.4 383.1 306.5 300.6 298.3 save 10 weeks later Lamellar structure formation Clear observation of anisotropy Non-performance No foreign matter observed Maltese pattern blurred No foreign matter observed Average droplet diameter (nm) 308.4

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour améliorer la barrière cutanée et l'hydratation de la peau, et son procédé de production. Selon la présente invention, des microgouttelettes présentent une structure lamellaire due au fait qu'elles contiennent des principes actifs qui imitent les composants et la structure lipidique en couches de la couche cornée de la peau, et peuvent ainsi améliorer la barrière cutanée et augmenter l'hydratation de la peau. De plus, après la production, les changements dans les couches lipidiques de la structure stratifiée et dans la taille des microgouttelettes sont réduits à un minimum au cours d'un stockage prolongé avant utilisation dans diverses conditions, ce qui permet de préserver l'activité et d'assurer une excellente capacité d'hydratation de la peau pendant une période prolongée.
PCT/KR2023/001870 2023-02-07 2023-02-09 Composition de produit cosmétique pour amélioration de la barrière cutanée et de l'hydratation de la peau, et son procédé de production Ceased WO2024167037A1 (fr)

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KR10-2023-0016149 2023-02-07

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KR102759467B1 (ko) * 2024-07-25 2025-01-24 에스씨엠생명과학 주식회사 줄기세포 조건화 배지와 병풀잎수와 펩타이드를 함유하는 화장료 조성물
KR102868116B1 (ko) * 2025-01-17 2025-10-14 주식회사 쌤시크코스메틱 갈락토미세스발효여과물을 유효성분으로 포함하는 기능성 화장료 조성물

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