WO2024014166A1 - 固形粉体化粧料 - Google Patents
固形粉体化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2024014166A1 WO2024014166A1 PCT/JP2023/020501 JP2023020501W WO2024014166A1 WO 2024014166 A1 WO2024014166 A1 WO 2024014166A1 JP 2023020501 W JP2023020501 W JP 2023020501W WO 2024014166 A1 WO2024014166 A1 WO 2024014166A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/027—Fibers; Fibrils
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
Definitions
- the present invention relates to solid powder cosmetics.
- solid powder cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows have been manufactured by a press molding method in which a container is filled with a cosmetic composition and then compressed and solidified. Since solid powder cosmetics contain a relatively small amount of oil, the binding force between the powder particles is weak and hard to solidify. Therefore, the press pressure is increased during molding, but the molded product produced in this way has a hard and powdery feel.
- Patent Document 1 discloses 30 to 90% by weight of an organic powder made of an acylated taurine polyvalent metal salt having an average crushing strength of 0.2 to 1 kg/mm 2 and a highly film-forming powder having an elastic modulus of 1 to 100 kg/cm 2 .
- Patent Document 2 focuses on an oil-soluble rice bran extract that has excellent moisturizing properties, and proposes a powder cosmetic in which an oil-soluble rice bran extract is blended in a specific ratio into an oil agent contained in the powder cosmetic.
- this powder cosmetic is a powder, it is smooth and there is no friction when applied, and the powder sticks to the skin, giving a unique feeling of smooth and soft skin after application. At the same time, damage caused by falling is reduced.
- Cited Document 3 proposes a makeup cosmetic containing cellulose granules.
- Patent Documents 1 and 2 mentioned above both focus on components other than powder, such as film-forming polymers and oil-soluble rice bran extract, rather than the powder contained in solid powder cosmetics. By mixing these ingredients, impact resistance and a smooth feel can be imparted to solid powder cosmetics.
- the inventors of the present invention have focused on powders and have been conducting research on powders that can provide impact resistance and a smooth feel when included in solid powder cosmetics.
- (First aspect) Contains cellulose powder with an average particle diameter of 1 to 25 ⁇ m and an aspect ratio of 0.6 to 0.9, The cellulose powder is an aggregate containing an additive and fine fibrous cellulose having an average fiber width of 1 to 500 nm.
- a solid powder cosmetic characterized by:
- the cellulose powder contained in the aforementioned solid powder cosmetic contains fine fibrous cellulose.
- fine fibrous cellulose is formed into elongated fibers, so the cellulose powder containing fine fibrous cellulose is not spherical but has a distorted shape from the spherical shape.
- the distorted shape can be expressed, for example, by the aspect ratio range described above.
- Solid powder cosmetics containing cellulose powder in the aforementioned average particle diameter range and aspect ratio range can have both resistance to impact (impact resistance) and a feeling of use such as smoothness, moistness, and soft touch. can.
- impact resistance resistance
- a feeling of use such as smoothness, moistness, and soft touch.
- the cellulose particles used in the present invention plastically deform when compressed, increasing the contact area between the particles and improving the moldability and impact resistance of the solid powder cosmetic. Guessed. Furthermore, even without deformation due to pressure, the cellulose powder used in the present invention includes those with distorted shapes, has a larger specific surface area than general spherical particles, and is non-spherical. It is assumed that when mixed with cosmetic ingredients, they line up in random directions and increase the number of contact points between the ingredients, resulting in less breakage due to less external force on impact resistance.
- the cellulose powder is formed by agglomerating the fine fibrous cellulose, Solid powder cosmetic according to the first aspect.
- the additive is glycerin; Solid powder cosmetic according to the first aspect.
- the cellulose powder has a moisture content of 1 to 15% in an atmosphere of 50% humidity.
- the cellulose powder has a bulk specific gravity of 0.5 g/cm 3 or less.
- the cellulose powder has a specific surface area of 1.0 m 2 /g or more, Solid powder cosmetic according to the first aspect.
- the cellulose powder has a cellulose pulp viscosity of 1.0 to 7.0 Pa ⁇ s, Solid powder cosmetic according to the first aspect.
- a solid powder cosmetic is provided with impact resistance (impact resistance) and is smooth.
- the solid powder cosmetic of the present embodiment includes cellulose powder having an average particle diameter of 1 to 25 ⁇ m and an aspect ratio of 0.6 to 0.9, and the cellulose powder has additives and an average fiber width of 1 to 25 ⁇ m. It is characterized by being an aggregate containing fine fibrous cellulose of 1 to 500 nm.
- the composition of the solid powder cosmetic will be explained below.
- the cellulose powder contained in the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment contains fine fibrous cellulose (also referred to as "CNF”), and this fine fibrous cellulose defibrates (refines) the raw material pulp. You can get it by doing this.
- CNF fine fibrous cellulose
- the raw material pulp for fine fibrous cellulose includes, for example, wood pulp made from hardwoods, coniferous trees, etc., non-wood pulp made from straw, bagasse, cotton, hemp, dust fibers, etc., recovered waste paper, waste paper, etc.
- One or more types can be selected and used from waste paper pulp (DIP) and the like as raw materials.
- wood pulp rather than non-wood pulp or waste paper pulp because it avoids contamination with impurities as much as possible and obtains a high content of ⁇ -cellulose, which is insoluble in alkali among the cellulose components.
- alkali-soluble components can be removed and the purity of cellulose can be increased.
- wood pulp one or more types can be selected and used from, for example, chemical pulps such as hardwood kraft pulp (LKP) and softwood kraft pulp (NKP), mechanical pulp (TMP), and the like.
- chemical pulps such as hardwood kraft pulp (LKP) and softwood kraft pulp (NKP), mechanical pulp (TMP), and the like.
- the hardwood kraft pulp may be a bleached hardwood kraft pulp, an unbleached hardwood kraft pulp, or a semi-bleached hardwood kraft pulp.
- the softwood kraft pulp may be a bleached softwood kraft pulp, an unbleached softwood kraft pulp, or a semi-bleached softwood kraft pulp.
- Mechanical pulps include, for example, stone ground pulp (SGP), pressurized stone ground pulp (PGW), refiner ground pulp (RGP), chemical ground pulp (CGP), thermoground pulp (TGP), ground pulp (GP),
- SGP stone ground pulp
- PGW pressurized stone ground pulp
- RGP refiner ground pulp
- CGP chemical ground pulp
- TGP thermoground pulp
- GGP ground pulp
- TMP ground pulp
- TMP ground pulp
- TMP ground pulp
- CMP thermomechanical pulp
- CMP chemi-thermomechanical pulp
- RMP refiner mechanical pulp
- BTMP bleached thermomechanical pulp
- chemical pulp such as hardwood kraft pulp (LKP) and softwood kraft pulp (NKP).
- pretreatments using chemical methods include hydrolysis of polysaccharides with acids (acid treatment), hydrolysis of polysaccharides with enzymes (enzyme treatment), swelling of polysaccharides with alkalis (alkali treatment), and oxidation of polysaccharides with oxidizing agents ( Examples include oxidation treatment), reduction of polysaccharide with a reducing agent (reduction treatment), and the like.
- alkali used in the alkali treatment examples include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia aqueous solution, tetramethylammonium hydroxide, tetraethylammonium hydroxide, tetrabutylammonium hydroxide, benzyltrimethylammonium hydroxide, etc.
- Organic alkalis and the like can be used. However, from the viewpoint of manufacturing cost, it is preferable to use sodium hydroxide.
- the water retention degree of fine fibrous cellulose can be lowered, the degree of crystallinity can be increased, and the homogeneity can be increased.
- the water retention degree of fine fibrous cellulose is low, it becomes easy to dehydrate, and the dehydration property of the fine fibrous cellulose dispersion (hereinafter also referred to as "slurry") improves.
- cellulose fibers When raw pulp is subjected to enzyme treatment, acid treatment, or oxidation treatment, the amorphous regions of hemicellulose and cellulose contained in the pulp are decomposed. By decomposing the amorphous regions, the energy required for micronizing the pulp can be reduced, and the homogeneity and dispersibility of cellulose fibers can be improved.
- cellulose fibers have excellent homogeneity and dispersibility, cellulose powder produced from fine fibrous cellulose tends to be homogeneous with little variation in particle size. If the particle size of the cellulose powder varies greatly, the cellulose powder may not be sufficiently dispersed in the solid powder cosmetic and may be unevenly distributed.
- the degree of decomposition of hemicellulose and amorphous regions of cellulose in pulp is one of the important factors.
- it is preferable to avoid excessive pretreatment because the pretreatment lowers the aspect ratio of the fine fibrous cellulose and results in the production of cellulose powder that deviates from the desired average particle size.
- a beater For defibration of raw material pulp, for example, a beater, a high-pressure homogenizer, a homogenizer such as a high-pressure homogenizer, a grinder, a stone mill friction machine such as a mill, a single-shaft kneader, a multi-shaft kneader, a kneader refiner, a jet mill, etc.
- a homogenizer such as a high-pressure homogenizer
- a grinder a stone mill friction machine such as a mill
- a single-shaft kneader a multi-shaft kneader
- a kneader refiner a jet mill
- Defibration of raw material pulp is performed by determining the average fiber diameter, average fiber length, water retention, crystallinity, coefficient of variation of fiber diameter distribution, peak value in the pseudo particle size distribution curve, pulp viscosity, and dispersion ( It is preferable to conduct the process so that the type B viscosity of the slurry) reaches a desired value or evaluation as shown below.
- the average fiber diameter (average fiber width; average diameter of single fibers) of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 1 to 500 nm, more preferably 3 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 10 to 100 nm.
- the average fiber diameter of the fine fibrous cellulose is less than 1 nm, when the fine fibrous cellulose is made into a slurry, the viscosity becomes high, making it difficult to dry the fine fibrous cellulose to produce cellulose powder. Additionally, depending on the manufacturing method, cellulose may dissolve and the fiber shape may not be maintained.
- the average fiber diameter of the fine fibrous cellulose exceeds 500 nm, the average particle diameter of the cellulose powder becomes large, resulting in a more distorted shape such as a rod-like or flattened shape, which contains the cellulose powder. There is a risk that solid powder cosmetics may become rough or feel like a foreign body.
- the average fiber diameter of the fine fibrous cellulose can be adjusted, for example, by selecting the raw material pulp, pretreatment, fibrillation, etc.
- the method for measuring the average fiber diameter of fine fibrous cellulose is as follows. First, 100 ml of an aqueous dispersion (slurry) of fine fibrous cellulose with a solid content concentration of 0.01 to 0.1% by mass was filtered through a Teflon (registered trademark) membrane filter, filtered once with 100 ml of ethanol, and once with 20 ml of t-butanol. Replace the solvent three times with Next, it is freeze-dried, coated with osmium, and used as a sample. This sample is observed using an electron microscope SEM image at a magnification of 3000x to 30000x depending on the width of the constituent fibers.
- the average fiber length (average length of single fibers) of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 0.3 to 200 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.4 to 200 ⁇ m, particularly preferably 0.5 to 200 ⁇ m. If the average fiber length of the fine fibrous cellulose is less than 0.3 ⁇ m, the aggregation of the fibers will be poor and it will be difficult to produce cellulose powder with a desired average particle size, resulting in a cellulose powder with a small particle size or agglomerated. There is a risk that a large number of bundled particles will be produced.
- the average fiber length of the fine fibrous cellulose can be adjusted, for example, by selecting the raw material pulp, pretreatment, fibrillation, etc.
- the average fiber length of the fine fibrous cellulose is measured by visually measuring the length of each fiber in the same manner as the average fiber diameter. The median length of the measured value is taken as the average fiber length.
- the aspect ratio of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 50 to 200,000, more preferably 50 to 10,000.
- the aspect ratio is less than 50, it is difficult to obtain cellulose powder with a desired average particle size.
- the aspect ratio exceeds 200,000, the circularity of the cellulose powder becomes small, and the smoothness of the solid powder cosmetic may be impaired.
- the lower limit of the crystallinity of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 50 or more, more preferably 60 or more, particularly preferably 70 or more, and the upper limit is preferably 100 or less, more preferably 95 or less, particularly preferably is 90 or less. If the crystallinity is less than 50, the strength of the cellulose powder will be low and a solid powder cosmetic with excellent impact resistance may not be obtained.
- the water retention degree of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 500% or less, more preferably 300% to 480%, if no chemical modification treatment is performed. If the water retention of the fine fibrous cellulose is less than 300%, the fine fibrous cellulose will not be defibrated to the desired size, and as a result, particles with the desired shape and size may not be obtained.
- the water retention degree of fine fibrous cellulose can be adjusted, for example, by selecting the raw material pulp, pretreatment, fibrillation, etc.
- the water retention degree of fine fibrous cellulose is JAPAN TAPPI No. 26 (2000).
- the pulp viscosity of the fine fibrous cellulose is preferably 1.0 to 7.0 Pa ⁇ s, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5 Pa ⁇ s, particularly preferably 2.0 to 6.0 Pa ⁇ s. Further, the degree of polymerization of the fine fibrous cellulose used for the cellulose powder is preferably 150 to 1250, more preferably 250 to 1150. Pulp viscosity is the viscosity of a solution obtained by dissolving cellulose in a copper ethylenediamine solution, and the higher the pulp viscosity, the higher the degree of polymerization of cellulose. In addition, pulp viscosity is related to the strength and rigidity of cellulose fibers.
- the degree of polymerization is too high, the resulting cellulose powder will be hard, resulting in a solid powder cosmetic with a rough texture even if additives are mixed therein.
- the degree of polymerization is too low, the strength of the fibers themselves will be lost, and the plasticity required for the cellulose powder used in the present invention will be excessive, making it difficult to control the moldability of the cosmetic product itself.
- the degree of polymerization of the fine fibrous cellulose can be adjusted, for example, by selecting the raw material pulp, pretreatment, fibrillation, etc. If the pulp viscosity is within the above range, the particles will have good plasticity, resulting in a solid powder cosmetic with impact resistance and smoothness.
- the fine fibrous cellulose obtained by defibration can be dispersed in an aqueous medium to form a dispersion (slurry), if necessary.
- the aqueous medium consists entirely of water (aqueous solution).
- the aqueous medium may be another liquid that is partially compatible with water.
- lower alcohols having 3 or less carbon atoms can be used.
- the fine fibrous cellulose dispersion (slurry, 2.0% by mass based on solid content) preferably has a B-type viscosity of 400 Pa ⁇ s to 100,000 Pa ⁇ s, more preferably 500 to 50,000 Pa ⁇ s. If the B-type viscosity of the dispersion is within the above-mentioned range, the slurry can be supplied to the drying device in the drying step without clogging.
- the B-type viscosity of the fine fibrous cellulose dispersion is a value measured in accordance with JIS-Z8803 (2011) "Liquid viscosity measurement method”.
- Type B viscosity is the resistance torque when stirring a dispersion liquid, and means that the higher the viscosity, the more energy is required for stirring.
- Defibration of cellulose fibers can be performed using the defibration apparatus and method shown below.
- the defibration may be carried out using one or more types of homogenizers such as a high-pressure homogenizer, a high-pressure homogenizer, a grinder, a millstone friction machine such as a grinder, a refiner such as a conical refiner or a disc refiner, various types of bacteria, etc. This can be done using selected means.
- the fibrillation of cellulose fibers is preferably carried out using an apparatus and method that uses a water stream, particularly a high-pressure water stream, to make the fibers fine. According to this apparatus and method, the resulting fine fibrous cellulose has extremely high dimensional uniformity and dispersion uniformity.
- Examples of the grinder used to defibrate cellulose fibers include Mascolloider manufactured by Masuko Sangyo Co., Ltd. Furthermore, examples of devices for micronization using a high-pressure water stream include Starburst (registered trademark) manufactured by Sugino Machine Co., Ltd. and Nanovater (registered trademark) manufactured by Yoshida Kikai Kogyo Co., Ltd., and the like. Further, as a high-speed rotary homogenizer used for defibrating cellulose fibers, there may be mentioned Clearmix-11S manufactured by M Techniques.
- the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment contains cellulose powder, it may also contain powder Y other than cellulose powder.
- the concept including cellulose powder and powder Y other than cellulose powder is sometimes simply referred to as "powder”, “powder containing cellulose powder”, etc.
- the cellulose powder of this embodiment is an aggregate formed by drying fine fibrous cellulose, but when viewed microscopically, it is formed by drying fine fibrous cellulose as a single substance (for example, In other words, some are formed by a single thread intertwining within the thread, others are formed by drying, and some are formed by multiple fine fibrous cellulose coagulating together during drying to form an aggregate. .
- Fine fibrous cellulose is manufactured from raw material pulp, and when dried, the fibers wrinkle and shrink, so the cellulose powder that is formed has an uneven shape that is difficult to describe, for example, dried fine fibrous cellulose.
- the cellulose powder has an agglomerated shape, a confetti-like shape, and a shape that is formed by crumpling and rolling one or more sheets of paper such as paper.
- the cellulose powder is white, pale yellow, cream colored, pale orange, or a mixture of these colors.
- a white or pale yellow cellulose powder is preferred because it is unnoticeable as a composition of solid powder cosmetics.
- the cellulose powder of this embodiment preferably contains fine fibrous cellulose in an amount of 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more, still more preferably 70% by mass or more, and the upper limit is 100% by mass. It's okay. If the mass percentage of the fine fibrous cellulose in the cellulose powder is less than 50% by mass, the cellulose powder may not have a desired average particle diameter and aspect ratio.
- the cellulose powder has irregularities on its surface due to fine wrinkles formed on the surface, light irradiated from the outside hits the irregularities and is diffusely reflected at various angles. Therefore, the surface of the cellulose powder lacks gloss, and the solid powder cosmetic containing the cellulose powder has suppressed shine.
- the cellulose powder of the present embodiment is produced by drying, for example, a plurality of dried and wrinkled fine fibrous celluloses may be entangled to form irregularities on the surface.
- drying fine fibrous cellulose There are various ways of drying fine fibrous cellulose, and the cellulose powder that is formed becomes particles in the shape of a single dried fine fibrous cellulose or in the shape of a plurality of dried fine fibrous cellulose aggregates.
- the cellulose powder contained in the solid powder cosmetic of the present embodiment preferably has an average particle diameter of 1 to 25 ⁇ m, more preferably 2 to 24 ⁇ m, and even more preferably 3 to 23 ⁇ m, and preferably has an aspect ratio of It is 0.6 to 0.90, more preferably 0.6 to 0.85. If the average particle diameter and aspect ratio of the cellulose powder are within the above-mentioned ranges, the solid powder cosmetic will have impact resistance and smoothness. In order to achieve both impact resistance and smoothness, it is desirable that both the average particle diameter and the aspect ratio be within the above-mentioned ranges, and it is not preferable for either one to be outside the above-mentioned ranges.
- the aspect ratio of the cellulose powder is the value obtained by dividing the short axis diameter of the cellulose powder by the long axis diameter of the cellulose powder.
- the moisture content of the cellulose powder in an atmosphere with a humidity of 50% is preferably 1 to 15%, more preferably 3 to 10%. If the moisture content of the cellulose powder is within the above-mentioned range, the impact resistance of the solid powder cosmetic will be even better.
- the moisture content of the cellulose powder can be adjusted by adjusting the concentration of the fine fibrous cellulose in the fine fibrous cellulose dispersion that is the raw material for the cellulose powder, the drying time, the average fiber width of the fine fibrous cellulose, and the like. However, according to the drying method described below, it may be difficult to adjust the moisture content of the cellulose powder to be less than the lower limit of the above-mentioned range. Furthermore, if the moisture content of the cellulose powder exceeds the above-mentioned range, the solid powder cosmetic may deteriorate in quality due to long-term use.
- the bulk specific gravity of the cellulose powder is 0.5 g/cm 3 or less, preferably 0.1 to 0.5 g/cm 3 , more preferably 0.1 to 0.4 g/cm 3 .
- the feeling of adhesion of the solid powder cosmetic is the feeling that the solid powder cosmetic is sufficiently attached to the application target such as the skin)
- it also becomes difficult to feel the moisturizing sensation making it difficult to remove solid powder cosmetics with a puff.
- the circularity of the cellulose powder is preferably 0.5 to 0.9, more preferably 0.6 to 0.85. If the circularity of the cellulose powder is within the above range, the solid powder cosmetic will have excellent impact resistance and smoothness. If the circularity is less than 0.5, the smoothness may decrease, and if it exceeds 0.9, the impact resistance may decrease.
- Aspect ratio and circularity can be measured using Morphologi 4 manufactured by Malvern Panalytical. This is a value obtained by collecting 3 to 5 mm3 of powder as a sample into a sample cartridge, dispersing it on a glass plate using a dispersion unit, and then analyzing a particle count of 20,000 using a static image analysis method. .
- Compressive strength 10% strength of cellulose powder is preferably 5 MPa or less, more preferably 0.5 to 5 MPa. When the compressive strength of the cellulose powder exceeds 5 MPa, it feels hard and rough, and lacks smoothness.
- the specific surface area of the cellulose powder is preferably 1.0 m 2 /g or more, more preferably 1.0 to 10 m 2 /g, and even more preferably 1.5 to 8 m 2 /g. If the specific surface area is less than 1.0 m 2 /g, the surface of the cellulose powder will have a shape with few irregularities, so the adhesion of the solid powder cosmetic will be poor, and dryness and powderiness will become noticeable. Become.
- the cellulose powder produced through the drying process described above has the effect of improving the dispersibility of the solid powder cosmetic composition, and also has the effect of preventing skin dryness and providing moisture (Emolymont effect).
- the cellulose powder may contain additives. This is because cellulose powder may coagulate with each other if left undisturbed after production.
- One of the reasons for this is considered to be the polarity of cellulose molecules constituting the cellulose powder. Therefore, the cellulose powder may not be dispersed throughout the solid powder cosmetic but may be unevenly distributed.
- the additive used in the present invention may be one that can mask the polarity of cellulose molecules or one that physically prevents strong aggregation of cellulose fibers during drying, and the additive must be mixed in advance with the dispersion of cellulose fibers.
- a hydrophilic material is preferable, and a hydrophilic material having an OH group (hydroxyl group), a CO group (carbonyl group), or a COOH group (carboxyl group) is more preferable. Since the cellulose powder of this form is hydrophilic, by including the additive, which is a hydrophilic material, the moisture content of the cellulose powder is maintained within the desired range, and the solid powder cosmetic becomes impact resistant. Becomes excellent.
- the additive one or more selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, polysaccharides, water-retaining polymers, and surfactants can be used.
- the content of the additive in the cellulose powder is preferably 1 to 49% by mass, more preferably 2 to 48% by mass. If the content is too high, the cellulose powder becomes sticky or loses its lightweight feel, resulting in poor adhesion to the skin. On the other hand, if the content is too low, the above-mentioned dispersion effect and Emolymont effect may not be achieved.
- polyhydric alcohols used as additives include polyhydric alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 3 oxygen atoms.
- glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, heptanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3- Propanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, etc. can be used, but are not limited to these.
- Glycerin is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of thickening properties and dispersibility of composite particles.
- the polysaccharide quince seed, vegum, xanthan gum, hyaluronate, etc. can be used, but the polysaccharide is not limited to these.
- hyaluronate and the like are preferred from the viewpoint of thickening properties and dispersibility of cellulose powder.
- Water-soluble polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyethylene glycol, homopolymers or copolymers whose constituent monomers are monomers having a phosphorylcholine group, and homopolymers or copolymers whose constituent monomers are monomers having sugar residues. , homopolymers or copolymers whose constituent monomers are monomers having amino acid residues.
- copolymers consisting of alkyl (meth)acrylates and polymethacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine, copolymers consisting of alkyl (meth)acrylates and methacryloyloxyethyl glucoside, alkyl (meth)acrylates and methacryloyl-L-lysine.
- copolymers consisting of, but are not limited to.
- Particularly preferred is polyvinylpyrrolidone from the viewpoint of thickening properties and dispersibility of cellulose powder.
- the surfactant examples include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants.
- nonionic surfactants are preferred in order to eliminate the influence of ionic bonds.
- a cationic surfactant is added to anionic cellulose fibers, the cellulose fibers may aggregate excessively during powder production (drying), making it difficult to control the shape of the powder. There is.
- nonionic surfactants include polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, glycerin alkyl ethers, glycerin fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, and modified polyglycerin.
- examples include silicone and polyether-modified silicone.
- the anionic surfactant include alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether phosphates, sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, polyaspartates, and the like.
- Examples of the cationic surfactant include alkylamine salts and alkyltrimethylammonium salts.
- Examples of the amphoteric surfactant include hydrogenated lecithin, carbobetaine type amphoteric surfactant, sulfobetaine type amphoteric surfactant, amino acid type amphoteric surfactant, and the like.
- the cellulose powder may contain inorganic fine particles.
- Inorganic fine particles can impart various functions to cellulose powder.
- metal-based inorganic fine particles have the effect of diffusing and reflecting incident light, and by incorporating the inorganic fine particles into cellulose powder, ultraviolet rays can be reduced. It can be expected to have the effect of suppressing irradiation and suppressing shine on the skin at the application site.
- the content of inorganic fine particles in the cellulose powder may have an upper limit of 49% by mass, preferably 45% by mass or less, and a lower limit of 0% by mass, preferably 5% by mass or more.
- the content exceeds 49% by mass the specific gravity of the cellulose powder increases due to the inorganic fine particles contained therein, and there is a risk that the dispersibility in the solid powder cosmetic may be impaired.
- the content is 5% by mass or more, the effect of diffuse reflection of incident light will be sufficiently exhibited.
- the upper limit of the primary particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles is preferably 10 ⁇ m, preferably 5 ⁇ m or less, and more preferably 1 ⁇ m or less.
- the lower limit of the primary particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles is not particularly limited, but it may be 1 nm, preferably 2 nm or more, and more preferably 3 nm or more.
- the primary particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles is 1 nm or more, when the inorganic fine particles are mixed into a raw material slurry for producing cellulose powder, the inorganic fine particles tend to disperse and stick to the fine fibrous cellulose.
- the primary particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles can be measured by electron microscopic observation, and the average value of the obtained particle diameters is taken as the measured value.
- the inorganic fine particles can of course be used as they are, but it is preferable to hydrophilize them because they become more compatible with the raw material slurry for producing cellulose powder.
- the surface treatment agent used in the hydrophilic treatment has the effect of suppressing the surface activity of the inorganic fine particles, improving the dispersibility of the inorganic fine particles, and improving transparency and squeaking.
- the surface treatment agent for inorganic fine particles is not particularly limited as long as it can be dispersed in the raw material slurry, but those containing anhydrous silicic acid and hydrated silicic acid are preferred.
- the inorganic fine particles are not particularly limited and any known inorganic fine particles can be used, but examples include barium titanate, lead zirconate titanate, silicon carbide, silicon nitride, aluminum nitride, alumina, zirconia, zircon, titanium oxide, and titanium oxide. Zinc, iron oxide, cerium oxide, etc. can be mentioned.
- one type or a combination of two or more selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and cerium oxide may be used.
- the inorganic fine particles are titanium oxide, it is preferable because the effect of suppressing ultraviolet irradiation is improved.
- the shape of the inorganic fine particles that can be included in the cellulose powder is not particularly limited, but can be, for example, spherical, rod-shaped, needle-shaped, spindle-shaped, plate-shaped, polygonal, etc.
- the inorganic fine particles may be attached to the surface of the fine fibrous cellulose in the cellulose powder, or may be encapsulated in the fine fibrous cellulose. It is preferable that the inorganic fine particles are encapsulated in the fine fibrous cellulose because the inorganic fine particles can be carried not only on the surface of the cellulose powder but also inside the cellulose powder, and even if incident light is irradiated from various angles, it will be diffusely reflected.
- encapsulation refers to a state in which part of the surface of an inorganic fine particle is covered with fine fibrous cellulose, or a state in which an inorganic fine particle is covered with fine fibrous cellulose when a cellulose powder is observed from the outside. It can be said to be a state that cannot be observed from the outside.
- the inorganic fine particles can be added to the fine fibrous cellulose dispersion before drying, and should be mixed until uniform.
- the solid powder cosmetic of the present embodiment preferably contains cellulose powder in an amount of 1 to 99% by mass, more preferably 3 to 60% by mass, and still more preferably 5 to 40% by mass. If the content of the cellulose powder is less than 1% by mass, the solid powder cosmetic will have poor impact resistance.
- Cellulose powder can be manufactured by drying fine fibrous cellulose in a drying process. Specifically, methods of freeze-drying as a fine fibrous cellulose raw material, vacuum-drying, heating-drying (for example, hot dry drying), spray-drying, and other methods of drying the cellulose powder of this embodiment It can be produced by a method of spray freezing and vacuum drying.
- cellulose powder produced by heat-drying or spray-drying has an average particle size and aspect ratio suitable for the solid powder cosmetic composition of this embodiment.
- the method for producing cellulose powder using the drum drying method is a dry method that is difficult to agglomerate and easily disperses, even if the cellulose is in the form of fine fibers with a relatively high concentration or poor fluidity. You can get a body.
- An example of manufacturing cellulose powder using the drum drying method is as follows.
- the fine fibrous cellulose can be supplied, for example, in the form of a slurry (aqueous dispersion) to a drum dryer that performs a drying process, but in this case, the content of the fine fibrous cellulose (absolutely dry mass %) is 1 mass %.
- the content is preferably 1.5% by mass, more preferably 2.0% by mass.
- the content is 10% by mass or less, preferably 7% by mass, and more preferably 5% by mass.
- the content exceeds 10% by mass, the viscosity of the slurry is too high and the handling properties are poor.
- the content is less than 1% by mass, a lot of energy and time are consumed to remove water, which is not economical.
- the drum dryer used in the drum drying method may be a known drum dryer.
- "John Milder JM-T” manufactured by Johnson Boiler Company can be used.
- an internal rotary drum dryer can be suitably used.
- An internal rotary drum dryer performs a gentle drying process, resulting in a dried product with a relatively small specific surface area. The drying process can be performed under normal pressure.
- the surface temperature of the inner surface of the drum is 80 to 200°C, preferably 90 to 190°C. At this surface temperature, a dried product with strong cohesive force can be obtained. When the surface temperature exceeds 200° C., there is a risk that some of the fibers of the fine fibrous cellulose will undergo thermal denaturation. On the other hand, if the surface temperature is less than 80° C., not only will it take a lot of time to remove moisture, but the particles will have a very high moisture content. Further, the rotational speed of the drum dryer can be, for example, 0.5 rpm or more and 2 rpm or less, although it depends on the inner diameter of the drum and the amount of slurry input. The time required for drying with a drum dryer is from 1 second to 60 seconds, depending on the amount of slurry input, for sufficient drying, and even if the drying time is longer than that, the moisture content of the dried product will not decrease any further.
- a spray drying device (“P-260” manufactured by Pris Co., Ltd.) can be exemplified.
- Cellulose powder can be produced by supplying a slurry of fine fibrous cellulose to the spray drying device.
- the spray drying apparatus may be of a two-fluid nozzle type, for example, and may be equipped with two 90-type nozzles.
- the conditions for spray drying can be, for example, a fine fibrous cellulose slurry of 20 kg/h, a drying air inlet temperature of 200°C, an outlet temperature of 100°C, and a spraying air pressure of 0.6 MPa, but as long as this is not the case. do not have.
- the additives are mixed into a slurry of fine fibrous cellulose, which is the production raw material, to form a mixture, and this mixture is dried using a heat drying method or a spray drying method. It is preferable to supply it to a device (for example, a drum dryer or a spray drying device).
- the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment can contain oil. Containing oil in the solid powder cosmetic improves moldability and improves impact resistance, but since the solid powder cosmetic contains cellulose powder, it is different from conventional cosmetics. Good impact resistance can be obtained even with a lower oil content.
- any oil can be used, regardless of its origin, such as animal oil, vegetable oil, or synthetic oil, or its properties, such as solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, or volatile oil.
- the oil is selected from, for example, hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hydrogenated oils, ester oils, fatty acids, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives, oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, etc. It is possible to use one kind or a combination of two or more kinds.
- hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, Japanese wax, and montan wax; olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil Oils and fats such as beeswax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax wax, etc.; isostearyl isostearate, cetyl isooctanate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, Esters such as glyceryl tribehenate, pentaerythritol rosin acid ester, diisostearyl malate, dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, neopentyl glycol dioctoate; low polymerization degree dimethylpolysiloxane
- oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, etc. can do.
- high viscosity ester oils with a viscosity of 1,000 to 50,000 mPa ⁇ s at 25°C such as diisostearyl malate and dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, etc.
- lipophilic surfactants When one type or a combination of two or more types selected from the following lipophilic surfactants are used, moldability and moist feel are further improved.
- the oil content in the solid powder cosmetic of the present embodiment is preferably 0.1 to 40% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 25% by mass, particularly preferably 1 to 15% by mass. If the oil content is less than 0.1% by mass, moldability may be reduced. On the other hand, if the oil content exceeds 40% by mass, it will be difficult to remove the oil from a cosmetic puff such as a sponge, making it difficult to spread the cosmetic onto the skin. Since the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment contains cellulose powder, it can maintain moldability with a lower oil content than normal oil content, so it can be used as a cosmetic with excellent puff removal and spreadability. can do.
- the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment may contain powder Y other than the cellulose powder.
- powder Y is included, the stickiness of the cosmetic film can be further suppressed, and when the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment is used as a base makeup cosmetic, it can provide desired coverage and finish. You will be able to make it your own.
- Powder Y other than cellulose powder has an average particle size of 0.01 to 200 ⁇ m.
- Powder Y other than cellulose powder is not limited by, for example, shape such as spherical, plate-like, spindle-like, needle-like, particle size, particle structure such as porous, non-porous, etc.
- Powder Y other than cellulose powder may be one or a combination of two or more selected from inorganic color pigments, inorganic extender pigments, inorganic fine particle powders, glittering powders, organic extender pigments, and organic coloring pigments. can do.
- the powder Y other than the cellulose powder includes titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, carbon black, chromium hydroxide, konjou, ultramarine, etc.
- Inorganic coloring pigments mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, synthetic phlogopite, silica anhydride, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum hydroxide, alumina, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, carbonized Inorganic pigments such as silicon, barium sulfate, calcium silicate, zeolite, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride; titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, etc.
- Inorganic fine particle powder such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, organic pigment-coated titanium mica, aluminum powder; magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, N-acyl lysine, Polyurethane, polystyrene, nylon, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl silsesquioxane powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, cellulose other than the above cellulose powder, crystalline cellulose, polyethylene, cross-linked polymethyl (meth)acrylate, polyester, styrene and acrylic acid Organic pigments such as copolymers of benzoguanamine, tetrafluoroethylene, cellulose acetate; Red No.
- Red No. 201 Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Red No. 405, orange Organic pigments such as No. 203, Orange No. 204, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401 and Blue No. 404, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 227, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 505 , water-soluble dye lakes (zirconium lake, barium lake, aluminum lake, etc.) such as Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1, and natural pigments. and organic coloring pigments such as lakes thereof; or a combination of two or more thereof can be used.
- water-soluble dye lakes such as Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1
- the powder Y other than the cellulose powder has been subjected to surface hydrophobization treatment from the viewpoint of feel in use and makeup durability.
- surface hydrophobization treatments include, for example, baking treatment with silicone such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and (dimethicone/methicone) copolymer, treatment with fatty acids such as stearic acid, and treatment with fatty acid metal soaps such as aluminum stearate and zinc stearate.
- acylated amino acid treatment lipoamino acid treatment which is a mixed treatment of acylated amino acid (salt) and fatty acid (salt), fluorine treatment such as perfluoroalkyl phosphate, silylation treatment with trimethylsilane etc., isostearyl sebacate, etc.
- fluorine treatment such as perfluoroalkyl phosphate
- silylation treatment with trimethylsilane etc. isostearyl sebacate
- Known surface hydrophobization treatments such as acid ester treatment can be used.
- an inorganic extender pigment whose surface has been subjected to hydrophobization treatment from the viewpoint of improving makeup durability and usability such as adhesion to the skin and ease of spreading.
- Preferred inorganic extender pigments constituting the inorganic extender pigments subjected to surface hydrophobization treatment include plate-shaped powders having a volume average particle diameter of 1 to 50 ⁇ m.
- Specific examples of the plate-like powder include talc, sericite, mica, synthetic phlogopite, boron nitride, and the like.
- the surface hydrophobization treatment of an inorganic extender pigment subjected to surface hydrophobization treatment is preferably an acid ester treatment, an acylated amino acid treatment, or a lipoamino acid treatment, since they are excellent in moldability, moist feeling, and makeup persistence.
- Preferred specific examples of surface hydrophobization treatments include isostearyl sebacate treatment which is an acid ester treatment, Al stearoylglutamate treatment which is an acylated amino acid treatment, and palmitoylproline/Mg palmitoylglutamate/Na palmitoyl sarcosine/palmitine treatment which is a lipoamino acid treatment.
- Examples include acid-Al composite treatment.
- spherical inorganic powders and organic powders such as spherical silica, polyurethane, polystyrene, nylon, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethyl silsesquioxane powder, organopolysiloxane
- elastomer powder cellulose other than the cellulose powder mentioned above, crystalline cellulose, cellulose acetate, etc. are used, irregularities such as pores and fine wrinkles can be effectively hidden, resulting in a preferable finish.
- the content of the powder containing the cellulose powder (that is, the combination of the cellulose powder and the powder Y other than the cellulose powder) is preferably 60 to 99.9 with respect to the total amount of the solid powder cosmetic. % by weight, more preferably 70-99% by weight, particularly preferably 80-95% by weight. If the content of the powder containing the cellulose powder is less than 60% by mass, it will be difficult to remove it from a cosmetic puff such as a sponge, and the formed cosmetic film will also tend to be sticky.
- the content of the plate-shaped inorganic extender pigment is preferably 1 to 95% by mass, based on the total amount of the solid powder cosmetic. More preferably, it is 5 to 90% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 85% by weight.
- the plate-like shape is not particularly limited, but for example, by observing the particles using a SEM (scanning electron microscope) and measuring the thickness and length of each cross section, each aspect ratio (length/thickness ) is calculated, and refers to a particle shape with an aspect ratio of 5 or more.
- the solid powder cosmetic of the present embodiment even if the plate-shaped inorganic extender pigment is blended in an amount exceeding 70% by mass, the cellulose powder improves the moldability, so the moldability and drop-off It has excellent strength.
- the content of the spherical inorganic powder and/or organic powder is the total amount of the solid powder cosmetic.
- it is preferably 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 3 to 35% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 30% by weight.
- the spherical shape refers to a shape with a circularity of 0.8 to 1 obtained, for example, by the above-mentioned static image analysis method. If the content is too small, the effect of hiding unevenness will be poor, and if the content is too large, the moldability will be reduced.
- the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment may contain a humectant.
- humectant for example, one type or a combination of two or more types from among polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, sugar alcohols, amino acids, peptides, water-soluble polymers, etc. can be used.
- glycerin for example, glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, heptane Diol, 1,2-octanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, collagen, sodium lactate, dl-pyrrolidone carboxylate, Izayo rose extract, Yarrow extract, Melilot extract, etc.
- glycerin for example, glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-hexan
- the solid powder cosmetic of this embodiment includes, for example, a water-soluble ultraviolet absorber, a preservative/antibacterial agent, a fragrance, an antioxidant, a pH adjuster, a chelating agent, Various ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as refreshing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, ingredients for beautiful skin, vitamins, amino acids, nucleic acids, and clathrate compounds, can be incorporated.
- the solid powder cosmetics of this embodiment can be used as make-up cosmetics such as pressed powder (solid white powder), powder foundation, wet/dry foundation, water-only cake foundation, powder eye shadow, blusher, face color, eyebrow ink, etc. It's especially good for doing.
- Cellulose powder A Fine fibrous cellulose was mixed at 70% by mass and glycerin at 30% by mass on a solid basis to obtain a fine fibrous cellulose aqueous dispersion having a concentration of 3.0%. The aqueous dispersion was spray-dried using a spray dryer (Pris Co., Ltd. "P-260") to obtain cellulose powder A. The average particle diameter of cellulose powder A was 13.5 ⁇ m. A SEM image of cellulose powder A is shown in FIG.
- Cellulose powder B Fine fibrous cellulose was mixed with water in an amount of 70% by mass and glycerin in an amount of 30% by mass based on solid content to obtain a fine fibrous cellulose aqueous dispersion.
- the aqueous dispersion was dried in a double drum dryer (John Milder JM-T type manufactured by Johnson Boiler Company) at a drum rotation speed of 3 rpm and a drum surface temperature of 135°C to obtain a dry body.
- a cellulose powder B was obtained by pulverization.
- a SEM image of cellulose powder B is shown in FIG.
- cellulose powder C As cellulose powder C, "Wako first grade cellulose, powder, 38 ⁇ m (400 mesh) passing", a product of Fuji Film Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd., was used. Note that the cellulose raw material for cellulose powder C is not the fine fibrous cellulose used in the present invention.
- a SEM image of cellulose powder C is shown in FIG.
- Cellulose powder E Fine fibrous cellulose was dispersed in water to a concentration of 3.0% based on solid content to obtain a fine fibrous cellulose aqueous dispersion. No additives added. The aqueous dispersion was spray-dried using a spray dryer (Pris Co., Ltd. "P-260") to obtain cellulose powder E.
- siliconeone powder "KSP-100", a product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., was used as the silicone powder.
- a SEM image of the silicone powder is shown in FIG.
- silica powder As the silica powder, "CHIFFONSIL P-3R" manufactured by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals Co., Ltd. was used. A SEM image of the silica powder is shown in FIG.
- the physical properties of the obtained powder were measured.
- the measurement items of physical properties are as described in Table 1. Measurement items of physical properties were measured according to the following procedure.
- the bulk specific gravity was measured by the standing method according to JIS-K-5101-12-1 (2004).
- Compressive strength was measured using Shimadzu Corporation products, micro parts strength evaluation equipment, with reference to JIS R1639-5 "Fine ceramics - Method for measuring grain characteristics - Part 5: Single granule crushing strength” Measured using Micro Autograph "MST-I”.
- the specific surface area was measured using a specific surface area measuring device "TriStar II 3020 N 2 Gas” manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation.
- the mode diameter (most frequent diameter), median diameter (50% cumulative diameter), average particle diameter, 10% cumulative diameter, and 90% cumulative diameter are measured using a measuring device compliant with ISO-13320 (2009), specifically by laser diffraction. / Scattering type particle size distribution measuring device (particle size distribution) "LA-960V2" was used to measure by dry method without removing moisture attached to cellulose powder.
- Pulp viscosity is a value measured according to TAPPI T230.
- the average degree of polymerization of cellulose refers to the viscosity average degree of polymerization measured according to JIS-K6726.
- Test examples and reference examples The powders obtained as described above were blended at the blending ratios shown in Tables 2 and 3. Specifically, for Test Examples 1 and 2 and Reference Examples 1 to 3 in Table 2, component No. Any one of powders 1 to 5 and component No. A mixture of components 6 to 13 was mixed for 10 seconds at 10,000 rpm (scale 50) using a sample mill (Kyoritsu Riko Co., Ltd. product "SK-M10") to obtain a mixture as an intermediate product. Next, component no. A homogeneous mixture of components 15 to 19 was mixed with the above mixture, and the powder compositions for Test Examples 1 and 2 and Reference Examples 1 to 3 were prepared by mixing the mixture for an additional 30 seconds in the sample mill described above. I got each.
- component No. Any one of powders 1 to 4 and component No. A mixture of components 5 to 13 was mixed for 10 seconds at 10,000 rpm (scale 50) using a sample mill (Kyoritsu Riko Co., Ltd. product "SK-M10") to obtain a mixture as an intermediate product.
- component no. Components 14 to 19 for Reference Example 7, components No. 14 to 20
- powder compositions for Reference Examples 4 to 7 were obtained, respectively.
- Test Examples 1 to 3 and Reference Examples 1 to 7 were obtained by press molding at the press pressure shown in Table 4.
- the hardness of the obtained Test Examples 1 to 3 and Reference Examples 1 to 7 was measured.
- Table 4 shows the hardness measurement results.
- Performance evaluation tests were conducted on test examples and reference examples.
- the test items for the performance evaluation test are drop strength, ease of removal with a puff, smoothness when applied to the skin, moist feeling when applied to the skin, and degree of adhesion to the skin.
- Table 5 shows the results of the performance evaluation test.
- the drop strength test was conducted using the following operating procedure.
- (1) A test example or reference example is dropped freely from a height of 30 cm above a horizontally installed concrete block plane with the flat part of the test example or reference example horizontal, and collides with the concrete block plane. I let it happen.
- (2) The operation in (1) above was repeated until the test example or reference example cracked.
- (3) Judgment A is when the number of trials in (1) and (2) above before the test example or reference example breaks is 11 or more, and Judgment B is when it is 8 or more and 10 or less. , the case where the number of times was 5 or more and 7 or less was evaluated as C, and the case where it was 4 or less was evaluated as D.
- Regarding the notation of the drop strength in Table 5 if the test example or reference example broke after 10 trials, for example, it was written as "B(10)" or the like.
- Tests for ease of removal with a puff, smoothness when applied to the skin, moist feeling when applied to the skin, and degree of adhesion to the skin were conducted as follows. A panel of 10 female experts used the test examples and reference examples and evaluated them.
- the ease with which it comes off with the puff, the smoothness when applied to the skin, the moist feeling when applied to the skin, and the degree of adhesion to the skin are evaluated as follows: if it feels good, it will receive a rating of 2, and if it feels good, it will receive a rating of 2, and it will be given a rating of 2. They were asked to rate it on a three-point scale: 1 if they felt it was not good, and 0 if they felt it was bad. Calculate the average score from the obtained scores, and if the average score is 1.5 or more, it will be judged A, if it is 1.2 or more and less than 1.5, it will be judged B, and if it is 0.5 or more and less than 1.2, it will be judged. C, and if it was less than 0.5, it was evaluated as D.
- Test Example 2 which contains cellulose powder B with a larger average particle size, has excellent drop strength, but has poor performance in terms of ease of removal from the puff, smoothness during application, moist feeling during application, and adhesion to the skin. However, it was slightly inferior to Test Example 1.
- Test Example 3 was excellent in all items even when the total amount was small, whereas Reference Examples 4 to 6 all had insufficient drop strength.
- Reference Example 4 containing commercially available cellulose powder C was inferior in drop strength and had a slightly inferior moist feel.
- Reference Example 7 uses cellulose powder E, which does not contain any additives and is made up of aggregates containing fine fibrous cellulose, but although the drop strength is improved, the smoothness and feel on the skin are poor. was inferior. Note that the glycerin contained in Reference Example 7 was added to the above-mentioned intermediate product mixture as a component of a humectant, and did not constitute an aggregate.
- the present invention can be used as cosmetics such as bases, face powders, foundations, and base makeup cosmetics.
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Abstract
Description
平均粒子径が1~25μm、かつアスペクト比が0.6~0.9であるセルロース粉体を含み、
前記セルロース粉体は、添加剤及び平均繊維幅が1~500nmの微細繊維状セルロースを含む凝集体である、
ことを特徴とする固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体は、前記微細繊維状セルロースが凝集して形成されたものである、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体を含む粉体を60~99.9質量%、及び油分を0.1~40質量%含む、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記添加剤がグリセリンである、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体は、湿度50%雰囲気下での水分率が1~15%である、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体は、嵩比重が0.5g/cm3以下である、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体は、比表面積が1.0m2/g以上である、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体を1~99質量%含む、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
前記セルロース粉体は、セルロースのパルプ粘度が1.0~7.0Pa・sとなるものである、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
ベースメイク化粧料である、
第1の態様の固形粉体化粧料。
本形態の固形粉体化粧料に含まれるセルロース粉体は、微細繊維状セルロース(「CNF」ともいう。)を含むものであり、この微細繊維状セルロースは原料パルプを解繊(微細化)することで得ることができる。
まず、固形分濃度0.01~0.1質量%の微細繊維状セルロースの水分散液(スラリー)100mlをテフロン(登録商標)製メンブレンフィルターでろ過し、エタノール100mlで1回、t-ブタノール20mlで3回溶媒置換する。次に、凍結乾燥し、オスミウムコーティングして試料とする。この試料について、構成する繊維の幅に応じて3000倍~30000倍のいずれかの倍率で電子顕微鏡SEM画像による観察を行う。具体的には、観察画像に二本の対角線を引き、対角線の交点を通過する直線を任意に三本引く。さらに、この三本の直線と交錯する合計100本の繊維の幅を目視で計測する。そして、計測値の中位径を平均繊維径とする。
本実施形態のセルロース粉体は、微細繊維状セルロースを乾燥して形成された凝集体であるが、微視的に見ると、微細繊維状セルロースが単体のまま乾燥されて形成されたもの(たとえて言うと、一本の糸が糸内で絡み合って形成されたものや干からびて形成されたもの)もあれば、微細繊維状セルロースが複数、乾燥時に凝集して凝集体となったものもある。微細繊維状セルロースは原料パルプから製造されるものであり、乾燥すると繊維に皺が入り縮まるので、形成されるセルロース粉体は、表現し難いが凹凸のある形状、例えば干からびた微細繊維状セルロースが凝集したような形状、金平糖の形状、1枚又は2枚以上の半紙等の用紙をくしゃくしゃにして丸めて形成したような形状となっている。また、セルロース粉体は、白色、淡黄色、クリーム色、薄橙色又はこれらの色の混合色を呈している。特に白色又は淡黄色のセルロース粉体であれば、固形粉体化粧料の一組成物としても目立たず好ましい。
前述の乾燥過程を経て製造したセルロース粉体の、固形粉体化粧料の組成物への分散性を向上させる効果や、また肌の乾燥を防ぐ効果やうるおいを付与する効果(エモリモント効果)を付与するため、セルロース粉体に添加剤を含有させてもよい。というのも、セルロース粉体は、製造後放置しておくと、相互に凝集してしまうことがある。これは、セルロース粉体を構成するセルロース分子の極性が原因の一つと考えられる。そのため、固形粉体化粧料中においてセルロース粉体が全体的に分散せずに、偏在してしまう場合がある。そこで、セルロース粉体に添加剤を含有させておくことにより、セルロース粉体におけるセルロース分子の極性がマスキングされ、セルロース粉体が相互に凝集しづらくなり、固形粉体化粧料全体に分散し易くなる。本願発明における添加剤は、セルロース分子の極性をマスキングできるもの、あるいは乾燥時において、物理的にセルロース繊維同士の強固な凝集を防ぐものであればよく、セルロース繊維の分散液と事前に混合する点を踏まえと親水性の材料であることが好ましく、OH基(水酸基)、CO基(カルボニル基)、COOH基(カルボキシル基)を有する親水性材料であることがより好ましい。本形態のセルロース粉体は親水性であるので、親水性材料である当該添加剤を含有させることで、セルロース粉体の水分率が所望の範囲に保たれ、固形粉体化粧料が耐衝撃性に優れたものとなる。
セルロース粉体には無機微粒子が含有されていてもよい。無機微粒子は様々な機能をセルロース粉体に付与することができるが、例えば金属系の無機微粒子は、入射光を拡散反射する作用があり、当該無機微粒子をセルロース粉体に含有させることで紫外線の照射を抑制する効果や、塗布部の肌のテカリを抑制する効果が期待できる。
セルロース粉体は、微細繊維状セルロースを乾燥工程で乾燥させることで製造することができる。具体的には、微細繊維状セルロース原料として凍結乾燥する手法や減圧乾燥する手法、加熱乾燥する手法(例えば、ホットドライによる乾燥方式)、噴霧乾燥する手法、その他本実施形態のセルロース粉体の乾燥方法である噴霧式凍結・減圧乾燥による手法によって製造することができる。特に加熱乾燥する手法や噴霧乾燥する手法で製造されたセルロース粉体は、平均粒子径やアスペクト比が本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料の組成物として好適である。
本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料は、油分を含むことができる。当該固形粉体化粧料に油分が含まれることにより、成形性が向上し、耐衝撃性に優れるものとなるが、当該固形粉体化粧料は、セルロース粉体を含有するため、従来の化粧料よりも少ない油分量でも良好な耐衝撃性を得ることができる。
本形態の固形粉体化粧料には、前記セルロース粉体以外の粉体Yを配合することができる。当該粉体Yを含むと、化粧膜のべたつき感をより抑えることができ、また、本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料をベースメイク化粧料として使用する場合においては、カバー力や仕上がり感を所望のものとすることができるようになる。セルロース粉体以外の粉体Yは、平均粒子径0.01~200μmとなるものである。
本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料には、保湿剤を配合することができる。保湿剤としては、例えば、多価アルコール類、糖類、糖アルコール類、アミノ酸類、ペプチド類、水溶性高分子類等中から1種又は2種以上を組み合わせて使用することができる。また、保湿剤としては、例えば、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、プロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、1,2-ペンタンジオール、ジプロピレングリコール、1,3-プロパンジオール、1,2-ヘキサンジオール、ヘプタンジオール、1,2-オクタンジオール、エチルヘキシルグリセリン、キシリトール、ソルビトール、マルチトール、コンドロイチン硫酸、ヒアルロン酸、コラーゲン、乳酸ナトリウム、dl-ピロリドンカルボン酸塩、イザヨイバラ抽出物、セイヨウノコギリソウ抽出物、メリロート抽出物等を配合することができる。
本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料には、上述する粉体、油分、保湿剤に加え、例えば、水溶性紫外線吸収剤、防腐・抗菌剤、香料、酸化防止剤、pH調整剤、キレート剤、清涼剤、抗炎症剤、美肌用成分、ビタミン類、アミノ酸類、核酸、包接化合物等の通常の化粧料に配合する各種成分を配合することができる。
本実施形態の固形粉体化粧料は、例えば、プレストパウダー(固形白粉)、パウダーファンデーション、水乾両用ファンデーション、水専用ケーキファンデーション、パウダーアイシャドウ、頬紅、フェイスカラー、眉墨等のメイクアップ化粧料とするのに特に優れている。
微細繊維状セルロースを固形分基準で70質量%、グリセリンを30質量%となるように混合して、濃度3.0%の微細繊維状セルロース水分散液とした。当該水分散液を噴霧式乾燥機(プリス社「P-260」)を用いて噴霧乾燥させて、セルロース粉体Aを得た。セルロース粉体Aの平均粒子径は13.5μmであった。セルロース粉体AのSEM画像を図1に示す。
微細繊維状セルロースを固形分基準で70質量%、グリセリンを30質量%となるように、水に混ぜて、微細繊維状セルロース水分散液とした。当該水分散液をダブルドラムドライヤー(ジョンソンボイラー社の「ジョンミルダーJM-T型」)にて、ドラム回転数3rpm、ドラム表面温度135℃で乾燥させて乾燥体を得て、当該乾燥体に対して粉砕加工を行い、セルロース粉体Bを得た。セルロース粉体BのSEM画像を図2に示す。
セルロース粉体Cとして富士フィルム和光純薬株式会社製品「和光一級セルロース,粉末,38μm(400mesh)通過」を用いた。なお、セルロース粉体Cのセルロース原料は、本発明に用いた微細繊維状セルロースではない。セルロース粉体CのSEM画像を図3に示す。
セルロース粉体Dとして大東化成工業株式会社製品「CELLULOBEADS」を用いた。なお、セルロース粉体Dのセルロース原料は、本発明に用いた微細繊維状セルロースではない。セルロース粉体DのSEM画像を図4に示す。
微細繊維状セルロースを固形分基準で濃度3.0%になるように水に分散させ、微細繊維状セルロース水分散液とした。添加剤は加えていない。当該水分散液を噴霧式乾燥機(プリス社「P-260」)を用いて噴霧乾燥させて、セルロース粉体Eを得た。
シリコーン粉体として信越化学工業株式会社製品「KSP-100」を用いた。シリコーン粉体のSEM画像を図5に示す。
シリカ粉体として日揮触媒化成株式会社製品「CHIFFONSIL P-3R」を用いた。シリカ粉体のSEM画像を図6に示す。
[数1]
(水分率(%))=[((乾燥前粉体の重量)-(乾燥後粉体の重量))/(乾燥後粉体の重量)]×100
前述のとおりに得られた粉体を表2、表3に示す配合割合で配合した。具体的には、表2の試験例1,2、参考例1~3については、成分No.1~5の粉体のいずれか一つと成分No.6~13の成分を混ぜたものをサンプルミル(協立理工社製品「SK-M10」)を用いて10,000rpm(目盛り50)で10秒間混合して、中間生成物である混合物とした。次いで、成分No.15~19の成分を予め均一に混合したものを前述の混合物と混ぜて、前述のサンプルミルでさらに30秒間混合して、試験例1,2、参考例1~3用の粉体組成物をそれぞれ得た。
試験例及び参考例について性能評価試験を行った。性能評価試験の試験項目は、落下強度、パフへの取れ易さ、肌への塗布時の滑らかさ、肌への塗布時のしっとり感、肌への付き具合である。性能評価試験の結果を表5に示す。
(1)水平に設置されたコンクリートブロック平面の上方30cmの高さから、試験例又は参考例を、当該試験例又は参考例の平面部分を水平にした状態で自由落下させてコンクリートブロック平面に衝突させた。
(2)前述の(1)の操作を当該試験例又は参考例が割れるまで繰り返した。
(3)当該試験例又は参考例が割れた時までの前述の(1)(2)の試行回数が、11回以上である場合を判定A、8回以上10回以下である場合を判定B、5回以上7回以下である場合を判定C、4回以下である場合を判定Dと評価した。表5の落下強度の表記について、例えば10回の試行回数で、当該試験例又は参考例が割れた場合は、「B(10)」等と表記した。
Claims (10)
- 平均粒子径が1~25μm、かつアスペクト比が0.6~0.9であるセルロース粉体を含み、
前記セルロース粉体は、添加剤及び平均繊維幅が1~500nmの微細繊維状セルロースを含む凝集体である、
ことを特徴とする固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体は、前記微細繊維状セルロースが凝集して形成されたものである、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体を含む粉体を60~99.9質量%、及び油分を0.1~40質量%含む、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記添加剤がグリセリンである、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体は、湿度50%雰囲気下での水分率が1~15%である、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体は、嵩比重が0.5g/cm3以下である、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体は、比表面積が1.0m2/g以上である、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体を1~99質量%含む、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - 前記セルロース粉体は、セルロースのパルプ粘度が1.0~7.0Pa・sとなるものである、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。 - ベースメイク化粧料である、
請求項1記載の固形粉体化粧料。
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| JP2002080325A (ja) | 2000-09-07 | 2002-03-19 | Kao Corp | 有機粉体含有固形粉末化粧料 |
| JP2008106178A (ja) * | 2006-10-26 | 2008-05-08 | Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corp | 水溶性高分子乾燥組成物 |
| JP2017048181A (ja) * | 2015-09-01 | 2017-03-09 | 王子ホールディングス株式会社 | 化粧料 |
| JP2017186323A (ja) * | 2016-03-30 | 2017-10-12 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形粉末化粧料 |
| WO2018194050A1 (ja) | 2017-04-19 | 2018-10-25 | 日本製紙株式会社 | メイクアップ化粧料 |
| JP2021098674A (ja) | 2019-12-23 | 2021-07-01 | 花王株式会社 | 粉末化粧料 |
| WO2022097544A1 (ja) * | 2020-11-05 | 2022-05-12 | 日本製紙株式会社 | 洗浄料 |
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| JP2002080325A (ja) | 2000-09-07 | 2002-03-19 | Kao Corp | 有機粉体含有固形粉末化粧料 |
| JP2008106178A (ja) * | 2006-10-26 | 2008-05-08 | Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corp | 水溶性高分子乾燥組成物 |
| JP2017048181A (ja) * | 2015-09-01 | 2017-03-09 | 王子ホールディングス株式会社 | 化粧料 |
| JP2017186323A (ja) * | 2016-03-30 | 2017-10-12 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形粉末化粧料 |
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| JP2021098674A (ja) | 2019-12-23 | 2021-07-01 | 花王株式会社 | 粉末化粧料 |
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