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WO2021240005A1 - Ébauches de tissu mises en forme et procédé de production d'un produit en tissu - Google Patents

Ébauches de tissu mises en forme et procédé de production d'un produit en tissu Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021240005A1
WO2021240005A1 PCT/EP2021/064459 EP2021064459W WO2021240005A1 WO 2021240005 A1 WO2021240005 A1 WO 2021240005A1 EP 2021064459 W EP2021064459 W EP 2021064459W WO 2021240005 A1 WO2021240005 A1 WO 2021240005A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
product
markings
finished
blanks
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2021/064459
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Shruti Grover
Simon Johnson
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pattern Project Ltd
Original Assignee
Pattern Project Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pattern Project Ltd filed Critical Pattern Project Ltd
Priority to EP21730529.1A priority Critical patent/EP4171304A1/fr
Publication of WO2021240005A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021240005A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to shaped fabric blanks for use by a user in producing a fabric- product, the blanks comprising pre-determined markings and user instructions for use in concert with manipulation of the fabric blank about the markings.
  • the invention further relates to a method of providing a fabrication kit which enables a non-expert user to produce a finished product, particularly to a method of providing a fabrication kit comprising fabric portions having pre-determined markings in combination with user instructions such that a user may produce a fabric product, for example garments, from the kit without specific training in fabric-product production.
  • the invention also relates to a method of reusing a finished fabric product, the fabric product having been produced from a fabrication kit.
  • fabric products Whilst the majority of fabric products are made in a commercial environment, fabric products may also be made by an individual using pre-marked fabric kits in which multiple shaped parts of the product are provided ready for assembly by the user to form the finished product.
  • Such products may be anything made from fabric such as garments or clothes, soft-furnishings for any environment such as the home, and the like.
  • Professional tailors, designers, dressmakers and the like possess a high level of expertise in order to provide fabric products to order which have the requisite high quality.
  • NL8400651A describes a method for producing a garment comprising the use of a computer-controlled laser to cut the textile material in the correct shapes ready for sewing.
  • the computer is pref. controlled by software produced in accordance with the pattern of a garment designer.
  • the software program may contain instructions for sewing together, chalk marking, stitching and the like. The method described enables a pattern or design to be transferred to a fabric. The problem of being adapted to be used by a non-expert or member of the general public to produce a fabric product of satisfactory quality and finish remains.
  • the invention provides a shaped fabric blank for use by a user in producing a fabric-product, the blank comprising a fabric portion with pre-determined markings and user instructions for use of the blank optionally in combination with other fabric blanks to produce a finished fabric product.
  • the invention also provides a method of producing a shaped fabric blank for use by a user in producing a fabric-product, the blank comprising a fabric portion of shape and dimensions determined by a remote input of data, for example measurements including body measurements, by a data input person for example a customer or a designer, the method comprising providing a template pattern which is capable of being displayed on an interface accessible remotely by the person wherein the shape and/or dimension of a part of the template pattern is adjustable by the person via the interface to provide a modified pattern having a shape and/or a dimension modified by the person, saving the modified pattern and information relating to the person and/or user, applying the modified pattern to a fabric adapted to be cut to provide a fabric portion having the modified pattern to provide the shaped fabric blank.
  • this method enables the person to modify the template pattern digitally rather than having to make modifications to the actual fabric itself by physical manipulation, which may require assembly disassembly, manual application of markings and measurements.
  • the method also enables automated cutting of the fabric according to the modified pattern obviating the need to apply markings manually or for manual cutting.
  • the remote input of data is suitable entered by a data input person, it may also be entered in part or whole by a device or automated system. Reference herein to a data input person is made for convenience but shall be deemed to include input by a person or a device or system.
  • the design of the fabric product and the shaped fabric blanks is suitably be determined by a designer, human or automated. This determines the template pattern. This pattern may then be modified by the designer, by the end user or by another person o or by a device or system by providing further measurements, for example body measurements or preferences to the design.
  • the modified pattern which is then used to provide the shaped fabric blank may be modified by an algorithm to provide modifications for example darts, tolerances, design features, varied allowances so as to provide improved design or fitting characteristics to the blanks and the finished fabric product produced therefrom.
  • the person may modify one of the selected template patterns which may mean that other template patterns for the product may need to be modified in a corresponding manner.
  • a modified pattern will provide a first shaped fabric blank and the modifications means that other blanks which are complementary to or intended to be connected with that first shaped fabric blank, also need to be modified to as a consequence of the modification to the first template pattern, such corresponding modifications may be carried out under the control of an algorithm using or in response to the modifications to the first template pattern.
  • the person may modify the shape and/or dimensions of the front panel of the skirt to provide a modified template pattern and any consequential changes required to other panels of the skirt are made by the algorithm without requiring further input from the person for each panel.
  • the template pattern may be resized to produce the modified pattern, in effect providing a tailored or customised pattern and shaped fabric blanks and a finished fabric product.
  • the resizing is suitably determined using an algorithm.
  • markings such as seam guides, numbering and other information for the end-user may be applied to the shaped fabric blanks.
  • the size, colour, pattern and the like of the fabric blank is determined dynamically via interaction and input from the person rather than shapes and sizes of products being pre-determined with an end-user then having to select from pre determined sizes. In this way, the end-user may obtain a bespoke, tailored fabric product.
  • the present method also enables only those products for which there is an actual customer to be produced rather than, with pre-determined shapes and sizes, having to produce a range of garments of different shapes and sizes, fabrics and the like with consequential waste and inefficiency due to the reliance on having to predict the market requirements.
  • the shaped fabric blanks are produced by cutting a piece of fabric.
  • the shaped fabric blanks required to form a finished fabric product are then assembled, with accessories for example buttons and the like, and instructions and despatched to the user. Some or all of the shaped fabric blanks may be sewn together prior to despatch to the user.
  • the fabric comprising the modified pattern is suitably cut by a computer-controlled cutting process, for example laser cutting in the shape of the modified pattern to produce the shaped fabric blank.
  • a computer-controlled cutting process for example laser cutting in the shape of the modified pattern to produce the shaped fabric blank.
  • the shaped fabric blank comprises markings applied thereto by computer-controlled laser-marking before or after the cutting step.
  • information relating to or defining the modified template pattern is used with information from more than one additional modified pattern (which may be the same or different to the first modified pattern) such that an array of modified patterns may be applied to a fabric without overlap such that multiple shaped fabric blanks may be cut from a single piece of fabric.
  • the arrangement of the modified patterns on the fabric is determined using an algorithm to avoid overlap of the patterns so as to maximise the usage of the fabric and minimise loss of fabric. This method enables information provided for different designs or from different persons to be collated such that multiple shaped fabric blanks may be obtained from a single piece of fabric.
  • each shaped fabric blank is marked with an identification code to indicate the finished product or the user to ensure that blanks are appropriately selected and assembled together prior to despatch.
  • the product may comprise many shaped fabric blanks obtained from different fabrics or different pieces of the same fabric.
  • the information relating to the modified pattern for each design may then be collated with information from other designs and the totality of collated information then be subjected to an algorithm to determine how best to arrange the modified patterns and to nest the modified patterns so as to minimise the amount of fabric required to produce all the required shaped fabric blanks.
  • information associated with the person or the end user is associated with each shaped fabric blank. Once the shaped fabric blank has been cut, the required fabric blanks for any particular modified pattern may then be selected, packaged and despatched to the end user.
  • Information relating to the person and/or user is suitably provided by the person and is associated with the saved modified shaped fabric blank.
  • This information may comprise any information to uniquely identify the shaped fabric blank such that the lank may then be assembled with other shaped fabric blanks to form the fabric product and despatched to the intended end-user.
  • the person suitably provides the modified pattern based on gaining access to the template pattern remotely by means of a computer screen, laptop, tablet, phone or other device comprising a screen and means to manipulate data on the screen, for example using a mouse, so as to adjust the shape and or a dimension of the template pattern.
  • a finished fabric product suitably comprises multiple shaped fabric blanks, each determined by the person inputting the initial information and modified from a template pattern. These blanks are then assembled and combined by the end user or prior to despatch to the end user. User instructions for combining the shaped fabric blanks to produce a finished fabric product are suitably provided to the end user together with the shaped fabric blanks.
  • the shaped fabric blank is suitably produced by a computer-controlled cutting process.
  • the pattern template or modified pattern template may also comprise markings. Such “pre-determined” markings are suitably applied to the shaped fabric blank by computer- controlled laser-marking before or after the shaped fabric blank is cut from the piece of fabric.
  • the template pattern or base pattern may comprise multiple patterns which the person may manipulate via the remote interface. Any or all of the patterns may be selected and suitably, the person may change the dimensions of any aspect of the pattern(s) selected, for example by selecting a particular dimension and using a slider bar to increase or decrease the length of the dimension or alter angles or any other form of modification to the template or base pattern so as to provide a modified pattern.
  • the modified pattern is then saved and may be collated with other saved patterns such that the modified saved patterns may then be arranged on a piece of fabric in a manner such as to maximise usage of the fabric and to minimise waste between patterns.
  • the patterns are then cut to provide the shaped fabric blank.
  • finished fabric product means a product which is a complete item, for example an article of clothing and a home furnishing or a product which has been subjected to manipulation in some way but which itself may then be further used together with or fastened to other fabric portions or other finished fabric products which, in combination, provide a is a part of complete item, for example an article of clothing and a home furnishing.
  • the invention also provides a finished fabric product produced by a user from a fabrication kit comprising a fabric portion or a plurality of fabric portions, the or each portion having applied markings and instructions for the user to enable the or each portion to be manipulated or fastened in a pre-determined manner and at pre-determined locations in accordance with the instructions and the markings, to produce the finished fabric product.
  • the invention further comprises a fabrication kit for the manual production of a finished fabric product comprising a fabric portion or a plurality of fabric portions, the or each portion having applied markings and instructions for the user to enable the or each portion to be manipulated or fastened in a pre-determined manner and at a pre determined location(s) in accordance with the instructions and the markings so as to produce the finished fabric product.
  • the invention provides a method of producing a plurality of fabrication kits each of which kits comprises a plurality of shaped fabric blanks which enable a non- expert user to produce a finished fabric product by assembling the blanks together, the method comprising receiving a multiplicity of orders for a fabrication kits and producing a multiplicity of shaped fabric blanks according to the method of claim 3 for each fabrication kit wherein the modified patterns for blanks for different fabrication kits are subject to an algorithm to arrange the modified patterns from different kits on a piece of fabric in a manner so as to maximise the usage of the fabric and minimize waste fabric between the modified patterns, cut the fabric according to the modified patterns to produce shaped fabric blanks and sort the multiplicity of fabric blanks into groups with other shaped fabric blanks from the same order thereby providing a plurality of shaped fabric blanks for a fabrication kit.
  • the fabric is cut to form shaped fabric blanks comprising a fabric portion.
  • the fabric portion and preferably a plurality of fabric portions, has applied markings, and instructions for the user to enable the or each portion to be manipulated by use of the markings and instructions in combination and further in combination with fixing means to produce the finished fabric product and the method further comprising applying the markings to the or each said portion, preferably by means of an automated marking process.
  • the portions of fabric may be made of any suitable material for production of the finished product.
  • fabric is employed herein to denote any material suitable for the production of a non-rigid product employed in the design of clothes or soft furnishings, including materials that are not themselves a “fabric” produced as a weave as such and may also include sheet or solid but flexible materials.
  • fabrics suitable for use in the present invention include woven materials produced from fibres, leather, plastics materials, rubber and the like.
  • the numbers may be applied by any suitable technique to apply markings to a fabric and preferably are etched into or onto the fabric.
  • the fabric portions are portions are shaped or cut to a pre-determined shape in accordance with the product design before or after applying the markings to the fabric portion.
  • the fabric portions may be cut using laser cutting, a mechanical utter, for example a tangential knife.
  • a tangential knife is employed to cut the outer shape of the garment.
  • the markings may be applied to the portions of fabric using a computer-controlled process. Known techniques for marking fabric, including etching and engraving may be employed, for example laser-marking and laser-cutting.
  • the invention also relates to a method of reusing a first finished fabric product, the first fabric product having been produced from a fabrication kit comprising fabric portions which comprise a first set of applied markings to enable production of the first finished product and a further set of markings to enable production of a further finished products, the kit further comprising corresponding sets of instructions to produce the first finished product and a further finished product, the method comprising providing a first finished product constructed from the fabrication kit and using the applied markings for a further use in the first finished product in combination with instructions for the corresponding further use for the user to enable the first finished product to be reconfigured into a second finished product.
  • the fabric portions are produced with two or more sets of applied markings to allow multiple use of the fabric to produce two or more finished products.
  • the invention provides a method of reusing a finished fabric product, the fabric product having been produced from a fabrication kit according to the invention, comprising providing a fabrication kit which enables a non-expert user to produce a finished fabric product, the kit comprising one or a plurality of fabric portions, the or each portion having applied markings for a first use and applied markings for one or more further uses, providing instructions for the first use for the user to enable the portions to be assembled by use of the markings for first use in combination with the instructions for first use to produce a first finished fabric product, the method further comprising using the applied markings for a further use in the first finished product in combination with instructions for the corresponding further use for the user to enable the first finished product to be reconfigured into a second finished product.
  • the method of the invention provides a kit which allows the general public, irrespective of relevant skill level or expertise to produce their own fabric products.
  • the invention enables fabric products to be produced at or near the point of use of the products in response to demand of the individual or a market rather than in a conventional supply chain where design, style, quantities, sizing are necessarily based on market projections with under or over-production and with the likelihood of market acceptance being based on projections.
  • the invention facilitates an alternative supply chain model for fabric products by reducing or removing user concerns about not possessing the requisite skill or knowledge in order to produce fabric products at or near to the point of use and in response to specific user demand.
  • the method also allows users to produce a wide range of fabric products, at a relatively low cost relative to the cost of purchase of manufactured products, thereby reducing the demand for low-cost supply chains and the exploitative consequences of that.
  • the method enables products to be tailored to individual taste and design ad enables easy assembly of the fabric products.
  • the invention aims to improve access to home- production of fabric goods to users who may not possess relevant expertise or skills or confidence to produce their own products or clothes, especially for clothes which are of sufficient quality, design and fabrication quality to allow a person to wear such clothes in the presence of third parties or the general public. Further, the invention allows fabric products to be produced at home to the desired size and fit, colour, design and the like, on demand, and thereby facilitates a reduction in waste or over-production, often observed in commercial supply chains.
  • the invention further enables selection of local suppliers, desirable fabrics, for example natural materials.
  • desirable fabrics for example natural materials.
  • packaging may also be reduced as compared to conventional supply chains for manufactured fabric products.
  • the fabric portions suitably independently comprise one or more design features, symbols or markings to enable correspondence with another portion, referred to herein as a matching-marking, or accessory, for example another portion of fabric, a zip, button or the like.
  • the markings may include design features, symbols matching-markings for aligning two or more portions of fabric for affixing to each other for example, serrated edges optionally with numbers to enable precise alignment of fabric portions to be matched or fitted together.
  • the fabric portion may comprise markings to indicate manipulation of a fabric portion but without use of other portions or accessories, for example, pleating.
  • the markings may be two dimensional, for example printed or otherwise marked on the surface of the fabric, or tree-dimensional, for example, notches, indentations, embossment, trimmings and shaping of edges.
  • suitable design features, symbols or markings include numbers, notches, seam lines, fold lines, tucks and dart , corners or edges trimmed, inner curves clipped, "pre-pinked" elements or fused edges to reduce the risk of fraying, indicators for placement of buttons, zips, fasteners, pockets and other design features or accessories.
  • the design features, symbols or markings may be scored or otherwise marked to provide guidance to a user or sewer to follow the predetermined design feature whilst sewing.
  • the fabric portions are suitably cut to the appropriate shape and size according to the product design.
  • the edges of the fabric portions have suitably been treated or processed to provide a finished edge, for example by sealing, sewing or the like, to reduce the risk of the fabric shedding fibres, if fibre-based, or otherwise, the shape of the fabric being altered and to provide a “clean” finish to the edge of the portion of fabric.
  • any accessories employed in the design of a finished fabric product may be included in the design and the markings on the portions of fabric may include markings for the location of any such accessories and corresponding instructions for the affixing of any such accessories to the fabric portion or finished product.
  • Examples of accessories include zips, buttons, fibres, colouring materials or compositions, yarn, sequins, metal and plastic adornments.
  • the markings are suitably applied to the fabric portions using an automated process.
  • the automated process suitably provides an output of applying markings to the fabric portions based on an input of a product design for the intended finished fabric product, such that upon assembly of the fabric portions by the user utilising the instructions, a finished fabric product according to the product design results.
  • the product design may be a design produced by hand, by computer-aided design software or any other conventional design process.
  • the product design suitably comprises a design of the finished fabric product and information relating to the shape and configuration of the or each of the plurality of portions intended to be assembled to provide the finished fabric product and the markings to be applied to the or each of the plurality of portions and instructions for the user to carry out a series of assembly steps in affixing the portions together to provide the finished fabric product.
  • the fabric portion is produced by a computer-controlled laser cutting process for example mechanical cutting and laser cutting, comprising providing a product design including one or a plurality of portions with markings which, taken together and when fastened together provide a product according to the product design, providing a fabric and a computer-controlled cutting system, for example a laser cutting system, and controlling the movement of the cutting means, for example a tangential knife and a laser, over the fabric in accordance with the product design input into the computer system so as to cut the fabric into one or a plurality of portions of fabric and to mark each portion of fabric with the markings of that portion as set out in the product design.
  • a computer-controlled laser cutting process for example mechanical cutting and laser cutting, comprising providing a product design including one or a plurality of portions with markings which, taken together and when fastened together provide a product according to the product design, providing a fabric and a computer-controlled cutting system, for example a laser cutting system, and controlling the movement of the cutting means, for example a tangential knife and a
  • Any computer-controlled cutting system adapted to cut and mark fabric may be employed.
  • laser-cutting may be employed and the laser may emit 50 to 400 MicroJ of energy with 0.25 - 10,000 Hz of pulse, or 0.5 - 200 W of power with more than 10,000 Hz of pulse.
  • the laser suitably emits an energy of 75-100 MicroJ with 2000 Hz of laser pulse. In one embodiment, where the thickness of the material is 0.5-0.7 mm, the laser suitably emits an energy of 100-150 MicroJ with 3000 Hz of laser pulse.
  • the present invention may be used by individuals or to produce multiple finished products, suitably in response to an order for a product.
  • multiple orders are received for a fabrication kit in the same fabric, suitably such orders are collated such that all relevant fabric portions for the multiple orders may be arranged in an optimal configuration or nested and be cut from the minimal area of fabric.
  • the fabrication kit may suitably be ordered on-line, preferably via an app in which size, style, fabric, quantity, personalisation and other variables are specified.
  • the fabrication kit is suitably adapted for packing in an envelope to enable ease of posting and to facilitate remote or internet-based sales.
  • Figures 1 to 13 show representations of different markings which may be employed on the shaped fabric blanks or fabric portions used in the invention
  • Figures 14A to 14F show representations of a single fabric portion in successive stages of manipulation to form a ring of fabric as a finished product
  • Figures 15A to 15E show representations of a single fabric portion in successive stages of manipulation to form a pleated finished product which may then be combined with further fabric portions to construct a garment;
  • Figures 16A to 16E show representations of a single fabric portion in successive stages of manipulation to form a ring of fabric as a pleated finished product which may then be combined with further fabric portions to construct a garment;
  • Figures 17A and 17B show representations of a plurality of fabric portions in successive stages of manipulation to construct a garment
  • Figures 18 to 20 show screen shots observable by the person inputting data with selection of the template pattern, tailoring of the template to form a modified pattern ( Figure 19) and selection of multiple modified patterns and assembly of the modified patterns to minimise wastage of fabric.
  • the fabric may then be cut to produce multiple shaped fabric blanks;
  • Figure 21 shows modified patterns for three different users based on their input measurements and where an algorithm has added additional darts for user two;
  • Figure 22 shows a process flow chart illustrating a method of producing a shaped fabric blank.
  • the fabric portions as shown are shaped fabric blanks which have been cut from a piece of fabric.
  • the piece of fabric may provide a plurality of the same or different shaped fabric blanks.
  • the particular shape and/or dimension of the fabric blank is based on a template pattern which has been observed remotely by a person and modified as regards its shape and/or any particular dimension so as to provide a modified pattern which is bespoke to the person providing the data input for the template pattern.
  • the surfaces of the shaped fabric blanks marked with dots represent an underside surface, an inside surface or a surface otherwise not visible to a third party observer (referred to herein as the “wrong” side) in the finished fabric product.
  • Plain surfaces, as shown in the Figures represent surfaces which are visible to ta third party observer in the finished fabric product (referred to herein as the “correct” side).
  • any of the fabric portions may also have further marks including a abbreviations for quick identification for example RS - Right Sleeve LS - Left Sleeve CB - Center Back FB - Front Bodice BB - Back Bodice.
  • Figure 1 shows pleat markings (1) for application to the wrong side of a fabric portion to indicate where to construct a pleat using circles and triangular cut-outs (2, 3), accompanied by etched arrows (4) showing the direction the fabric should be folded to form the pleat.
  • the pleat is formed by carefully pinching the fabric along the centre-line of the circular / diamond shape cut outs. Bring the folded fabric over towards the middle and cut-out and match the shape.
  • Figures 2A and 2B shows numbered notches with numbers (5) applied along cutting line, used for matching seams.
  • the seams are to be joined progressing from lower to higher matching number pairs on two fabric portions (6, 7).
  • the numbers are applied etched on the wrong side of the fabric, placed alongside snips which are cut through. The user aligns the numbers on one portion of fabric with the same number on the second portion of fabric.
  • Figure 3 shows a seam allowance marking which consists of a continuous line, located inside the cutting line.
  • the seam allowance marking indicates where the seamline stitching goes, suitably on the wrong side of the fabric.
  • the fabric portion is prepared for a straight stitch and the seam allowance marking is positioned perpendicular to sewing machine needle for sewing.
  • Figure 4 shows a dashed line to be applied on the wrong side of the fabric, indicating placement of the top line of stitching.
  • the fabric portion is prepared for the top stitch and the positioned perpendicular to machine needle for sewing.
  • Figure 5 shows a cut through line for a button hole with a solid horizontal with perpendicular end parts (8) indicating the length of the button hole.
  • Figure 6 shows a marking to indicate parallel lines along a seamline where a zipper is to be inserted. The zipper is inserted such that the pull tab and bottom stop are positioned as indicated.
  • Figure 7 shows a fabric portion with semi-circular markings (9) for fabric portions to be arranged contiguously.
  • the fabric portion is folded in the direction of the arrow to match with wrong sides together with the markings (9) aligning.
  • Figure 8 shows a continuous line pattern for marking on a fabric portion on the wrong side to indicate where the facing face of another fabric portion should be placed.
  • Figure 9 shows asymmetrically placed geometric shapes, for example, circular, semi circular and triangular shapes, which align when the fabric portions are correctly placed.
  • the facing or correct sides are placed facing each other such that the cut-out markings align and the fabric portions may be sewn on the wrong side.
  • Figure 10 show small geometric markings for cut-outs made on the edge of the fabric portion which indicate a basic fold - where the correct side of the garment folds onto itself.
  • the curved arrow indicates backstitching.
  • the arrow is applied on the wrong side of the fabric and stitching is carried out in the opposite the direction of the overall stitch line to secure the thread.
  • Figure 12 shows an origin marker to show where to start sewing for a particular fabric portion and is suitably applied to the wrong side of the fabric.
  • the wavy line in Figure 13 indicates the placement of gathers and a row of stitches is sewn along the marked area leaving both start and end unsecured.
  • the fabric may be eased along the threads to create gathers.8
  • Figures 14A to 14F show a series of images of a fabric portion (10) which, with the aid of markings and user instructions, is manipulated to form a ring (11) as shown in Figure 14F.
  • the fabric portion (10) is marked, suitably in an automated, computer controlled, marking process with markings on the wrong side of the fabric portion as shown in Figure 14B.
  • the markings include top stitch markings (12) as shown in Figure 4 with thread (13), asymmetrically-placed geometric shapes as shown in Figure 9, which are to be aligned with each other when the fabric is manipulated and contiguous piece markings (9) as shown in Figure 7.
  • the fabric portion is folded in the direction of the arrow in Figure 14B to form the folded fabric with the wrong side outwardly facing as shown in Figure 14C and, in more detail showing alignment of the contiguous piece markings (14) in Figure 14C’.
  • the fabric portion is sewn along the top stitch marking as shown in Figure 14D and, as shown in Figure 14E, folded in the direction of the arrow with the contiguous piece markings aligning.
  • the manipulated fabric portion may then be turned “inside out” to provide the finished product, a ring of fabric (11) as shown in Figure 14F.
  • Figures 15A to 15 E show a portion of fabric having pre-formed pleats and fold marks (15) as shown in Figure 15B and, folded, in Figure 15C and Figure 15C’.
  • Figure 15D shows stitching marks (16) and thread (17).
  • a finished product (18) is formed with inclined side seams (19) which is suitable for use with other fabric portions or finished products to form a top or vest.
  • Figures 16A to 16E show a portion of fabric having pleat markings (20) in Figure 16A and, in Figure 16B, lines on the wrong side to indicate the locus of the pleats to be formed.
  • Figure 16C shows a close-up view of the correct side of the fabric portion with pleat markings and arrows to indicate the direction in which the fabric is to be folded to form the pleats. The folds are formed and manipulated in the direction of the arrows towards each other as shown in Figure 16D, thereby to form the finished product (21) as shown in Figure 16E.
  • FIGs 17A and 17B shows several fabric portions (22-24), in which two portions (22 and 23) are already fastened or affixed to each other about seam (25) with interlocking matching marks.
  • the edge of each of the fabric portions comprise serrated formations (26) which facilitate interlocking engagement of the portions.
  • the fabric portions also have number markings (27) which indicate precisely where correspondingly numbered parts of other portions are to be located, thereby ensuring the fabric portions are accurately aligned along the joining edges as indicated by the arrows in Figure 17B.
  • Figure 18 to 20 show an interface screen with successive images on which the person inputting data observes template patterns of different sizes and selects the template pattern approximating to the desired size of the finished product, as shown in Figure 18.
  • the next screen, Figure 19 shows the selected template pattern in heavier line with slide-bars for adjusting various dimensions on the template pattern. The person may then tailor the particular dimensions according to the desired measurements of the end user.
  • the selected template pattern and the adjustments are saved as a modified pattern and are used to define a shaped fabric blank.
  • This process may be repeated for a range of shaped fabric blanks which, together, may be assembled to provide the finished fabric product.
  • a number of modified patterns from different product orders for different fabric products may be collated such that shaped fabric blanks from a number of different products are cut from the same piece of cloth and are labelled uniquely in a manner to identify the particular blank with a specific product order.
  • orders are received for 5 different finished fabric products, each being made of between 3 and 5 shaped fabric blanks with appropriate markings.
  • the 5 products cumulatively comprise 20 shaped fabric blanks.
  • the products may be different sizes of the same product or different products but with at least some parts of the products being made from the same fabric.
  • the blanks are denoted using the 2 digits, the first for denoting the product order i.e. from 1 to 5, and, for each product order, a number denoting each shaped fabric blank, so 1 to 3 for a three blank product and 1 to 5 for a five blank product, all of the blanks for that group of products has a unique identifier.
  • product 1 comprises five blanks, they will be denoted 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4 and 1,5, with product 2 having, say, 3 blanks denoted 2-1 , 2-2 and 2-3 etc.
  • Figure 20 shows a screen with an array of different modified patterns for forming into a shaped fabric blank by cutting along the shown lines. Each blank is suitably uniquely identified.
  • the fabric may then be cut, suitably using a computer-controlled cutting step to provide the blanks for the group of orders.
  • the individual blanks are then selected and assembled with other blanks for the same product.
  • the blanks may then be sewn together or otherwise processed and, ultimately, are despatched to the end user as a collection of blanks and other accessories for the end user to assemble into the finished fabric product or may be assembled in whole or in part and then despatched to the user as a finished fabric product or as a part-finished fabric product.
  • Figure 21 shows three template patterns which have been selected by three different persons and modified differently according to the particular measurements for the product required by each person. This illustrates how the particular design of the template patterns may be modified according to the individual requirements of the customer, the method then collates all examples of the products and the required blanks and ensures the modified patterns are organised and orientated on a piece of fabric such that each, specifically tailored blank is cut whilst minimising waste and providing a bespoke product.
  • Figure 22 shows in flow-chart form an illustration of the method of the invention. The customer selects a desired pattern and design and options for the finished product and inputs detailed measurements whereby a parametric pattern block may be manipulated to provide modified template patterns for forming a series of shaped fabric blanks which, together, form the finished fabric product.
  • the process is suitably adapted to receive online payments and the process steps are suitably controlled by a control system, preferably computerised.
  • the control system collates the patterns ordered into batches and the modified template patterns may, by use of a nesting algorithm, be allocated to a particular location and orientation on the fabric in preparation for cutting.
  • the method may be used to produce blanks for a series of products in batches or a single product may be produced by the process.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une ébauche de tissu mise en forme destinée à être utilisée par un utilisateur dans la production d'un produit en tissu, l'ébauche ayant une partie de tissu avec des marquages prédéterminés et des instructions d'utilisateur pour l'utilisation de l'ébauche facultativement en combinaison avec d'autres ébauches de tissu pour produire un produit de tissu fini. L'ébauche de tissu mise en forme est fabriquée sur la base de la sélection d'un motif de gabarit pour l'ébauche de tissu voulue. La forme et les dimensions du motif de gabarit sont modifiées par une entrée à distance de la personne et peuvent également être modifiées par un algorithme, le motif modifié est sauvegardé et agrégé avec d'autres motifs modifiés sauvegardés et appliqué à un tissu avec d'autres ébauches et coupé à l'aide d'un appareil commandé par ordinateur. Les ébauches pour la conception sont ensuite sélectionnées et remises à l'utilisateur final.
PCT/EP2021/064459 2020-05-28 2021-05-28 Ébauches de tissu mises en forme et procédé de production d'un produit en tissu Ceased WO2021240005A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21730529.1A EP4171304A1 (fr) 2020-05-28 2021-05-28 Ébauches de tissu mises en forme et procédé de production d'un produit en tissu

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB2007993.5A GB2595487A (en) 2020-05-28 2020-05-28 A method of producing a fabric product
GB2007993.5 2020-05-28

Publications (1)

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WO2021240005A1 true WO2021240005A1 (fr) 2021-12-02

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EP (1) EP4171304A1 (fr)
GB (2) GB2595487A (fr)
WO (1) WO2021240005A1 (fr)

Citations (6)

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GB1389405A (en) * 1971-07-08 1975-04-03 St Chad Services Ltd Method and means for teaching the art of home dressmaking to beginners
NL8400651A (nl) 1984-02-29 1985-09-16 Beno Hemmo Kunst Werkwijze en inrichting ter vervaardiging van een kledingstuk.
US4995514A (en) * 1986-08-19 1991-02-26 Horst Forschner Method and measurement system for the production of garment kits
US6173211B1 (en) * 1998-04-15 2001-01-09 Gerber Technology, Inc. Apparatus and method for fabric printing of nested
WO2016033367A1 (fr) * 2014-08-27 2016-03-03 Revolaze, LLC Système et procédé de génération d'un motif ou d'une image sur une étoffe par irradiation laser linéaire, étoffe réalisée par ledit procédé et produits réalisés avec ladite étoffe
EP3342298A1 (fr) * 2016-12-31 2018-07-04 Jo Ann Mitton Motif et procédé de fabrication de vêtements

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US2892196A (en) * 1956-01-17 1959-06-30 Pundyk Bernard Prefabricated garment construction
US3136412A (en) * 1962-06-04 1964-06-09 Youthcraft Mfg Company Package and method for making a garment
US3406407A (en) * 1966-02-01 1968-10-22 Parlanti Theodora Nina Method and means for making a lined garment
JPS5320601A (en) * 1976-08-05 1978-02-25 Fuoogeru Ruudorufu Pipe structure for boring platform
JPS53146835A (en) * 1977-05-26 1978-12-21 Unitika Ltd Cloth
GB2222395A (en) * 1988-09-06 1990-03-07 Makower & Co Limited M Garments
US6499513B1 (en) * 2000-11-15 2002-12-31 Andrew M. Bakaysza Method and apparatus for manufacturing sewn goods
US10820649B2 (en) * 2016-03-14 2020-11-03 Amazon Technologies, Inc. Organized assembly instruction printing and referencing

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1389405A (en) * 1971-07-08 1975-04-03 St Chad Services Ltd Method and means for teaching the art of home dressmaking to beginners
NL8400651A (nl) 1984-02-29 1985-09-16 Beno Hemmo Kunst Werkwijze en inrichting ter vervaardiging van een kledingstuk.
US4995514A (en) * 1986-08-19 1991-02-26 Horst Forschner Method and measurement system for the production of garment kits
US6173211B1 (en) * 1998-04-15 2001-01-09 Gerber Technology, Inc. Apparatus and method for fabric printing of nested
WO2016033367A1 (fr) * 2014-08-27 2016-03-03 Revolaze, LLC Système et procédé de génération d'un motif ou d'une image sur une étoffe par irradiation laser linéaire, étoffe réalisée par ledit procédé et produits réalisés avec ladite étoffe
EP3342298A1 (fr) * 2016-12-31 2018-07-04 Jo Ann Mitton Motif et procédé de fabrication de vêtements

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB2597586A (en) 2022-02-02
GB202007993D0 (en) 2020-07-15
EP4171304A1 (fr) 2023-05-03
GB202107728D0 (en) 2021-07-14
GB2595487A (en) 2021-12-01

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