WO2020020539A1

WO2020020539A1 - An antidandruff composition

Info

Publication number: WO2020020539A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/066070
Authority: WO
Inventors: Neesha BARCHHA; Dolly Himanshu Desai; Manish Gangopadhyay; Sowmiya RAJAGOPALAN; Pooja Shankardas SERAI; Godfrey Serrao
Original assignee: Unilever NV; Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Unilever NV; Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2018-07-26
Filing date: 2019-06-18
Publication date: 2020-01-30
Anticipated expiration: 2021-01-26
Also published as: AR117625A1

Abstract

Disclosed is an antidandruff composition comprising 0.1 to 5% palmarosa (Cymbopogon martyinii) oil and 0.1 to 5% on dry weight basis of aqueous extract of one or more of Azadirachta indica or Phyllanthus emblica, wherein the composition comprises aqueous extracts of Azadirachta indica and Phyllanthus emblica.

Description

AN ANTIDANDRUFF COMPOSITION

Field of the invention

This invention relates to an antidandruff shampoo composition. The invention more particularly relates to a shampoo composition that comprises combination of natural actives that delivers the desired anti-dandruff benefits.

Background of the invention

The invention relates to a shampoo composition that provides desired antidandruff benefits in addition to cleansing of hair and scalp. Hair care compositions generally provide cleansing or conditioning benefits or a combination of the two. Such compositions typically comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which generally aid in cleaning the hair and/or the scalp free of undesirable soil, particles, and fatty matter.

Additionally, anti-dandruff benefit has been provided through hair care compositions. Dandruff is an issue that affects many people globally. The condition is manifested by the shedding of clumps of dead skin cells from the scalp. These are white in colour and provide an aesthetically displeasing appearance. A factor that contributes to dandruff are certain members of the Malassezia yeasts. To combat these, anti-dandruff products have been developed in the form of hair cleansing shampoos. An example of a known anti-dandruff shampoo comprises sodium lauryl ether sulfate (an ethoxylated anionic surfactant) in combination with an anti-dandruff agent. Typical anti-dandruff agents used in hair care are metal pyrithione e.g., zinc pyrithione (ZPTO), Octopirox (piroctone olamine), azole antimicrobials, selenium sulfide and combinations thereof. One of the more popular agent from the above list is ZPTO. However, ZPTO is a chemical that is synthetically prepared and there has been a trend to use actives that are of more natural origin.

The present inventors have experimented with a large number of natural actives some of which have been known for hair care benefit including anti-dandruff benefit to come up with combination of actives that match the performance of ZPTO in providing anti- dandruff activity. They finally hit up on a combination of oil extracted from palmarosa (which has the botanical name Cymbopogon martyinii) along with extracts from herbs like neem ( Azhadirachta indica) and amla ( Phyllanthus emblica) which has been found by way of the present invention to interact synergistically to provide anti- malassezia activity on par with that obtained with ZPTO.

A related art is disclosed in WO2010086717 A1 (Himalaya) which discloses herbal cleanser composition and methods of preparation thereof. The composition comprises extracts of organically certified herbs and polyglucosides wherein the extract is prepared employing a super critical fluid extraction or water extraction process. The herbs are selected from a long list of which Phyllanthus emblica, Azhadirachta indica, Cymbopogon flexuous are three. The invention therein does not clearly and unambiguously disclose the combination of palmarosa oil and an additional herb as claimed in the present invention for anti- malassezia activity.

Database GNPD (Online) Mintel; 24 May 2018 discloses a volumizing Jatamansi hair cleanser that comprises a variety of herbal actives.

US2005/191267 A1 (Luanratana Omboon) discloses a process for obtaining high quality Mulberry extract for use in cosmetics to provide whitening effects for darkened skin through anti-tyrosinase activity, and antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Thus, there is still a need for newer and more efficacious compositions where the actives of natural origin interact synergistically to provide anti-dandruff efficacy similar to or better than that provided by zinc pyrithione.

It is thus an object of the present invention to deliver anti-malassezia efficacy using a combination of natural actives that is comparable to that obtainable with zinc pyrithione.

Summary of the invention

In accordance with a first aspect is disclosed an antidandruff shampoo composition comprising 0.1 to 5% palmarosa ( Cymbopogon martyinii) oil and 0.1 to 5% on dry weight basis of aqueous extract of one or more of Azadirachta indica or Phyllanthus emblica, wherein the composition comprises aqueous extracts of Azadirachta indica and Phyllanthus emblica.

Another aspect relates to a method of providing anti dandruff benefit to scalp comprising applying a composition of the first aspect on to scalp and optionally followed by rinsing the surface with water.

Detailed description of the invention

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the following detailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may be utilized in any other aspect of the invention. The word“comprising” is intended to mean“including” but not necessarily“consisting of” or“composed of.” In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It is noted that the examples given in the description below are intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit the invention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages are weight/weight percentages unless otherwise indicated. Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description and claims indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word“about”. Numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred ranges are described in the format "from x to y", it is understood that all ranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated. In other words, in specifying any ranges of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.

Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

By ‘An antidandruff shampoo composition’ as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to skin, hair and/or scalp of mammals, especially humans. Such a composition is generally applied on to the desired topical surface of the body and then preferably rinsed off, in a few minutes thereafter. The composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or bar. Non-limiting examples of such compositions include wash-off shampoos, shampoo- cum-conditioners, shower gels, hair care liquids gels and bars. The composition of the present invention is most preferably a shampoo in the conventional lotion or semi-liquid form.

The present invention relates to an antidandruff cleansing composition. It provides synergistic anti-fungal action of palmarosa oil which is also known Cymbopogon martyinii along with an aqueous extract of Azadirachta indica and Phyllanthus emblica.

Palmarosa oil is extracted from the leaves of palmarosa. It is a tropical plant which grows in warm and humid climate. It grows wild in the central and southern part of India. It is an aromatic grass that grows all year around. It is also cultivated in areas which have warm climate and has heavy rainfall. In India, it is cultivated in the states of Karnataka, Maharashtra and Uttar Pradesh.

Palmarosa has been widely used in Ayurvedic skin care as a cellular stimulator and for supporting cell regulation. Other uses include uses as an antiseptic, for treating nerve pain, fever, and certain infectious diseases. It is also known for digestive properties.

In modern times, oil of palmarosa has been used in perfumery, particularly for blending of soaps due to the lasting rose-note. It predominantly contains geraniol which is known to be stable in contact with alkali. The palmarosa oil for use in the present invention was analysed by GC and found to have the following constitution: Geraniol 80% to 82%; Geranyl Acetate 8% to 10%; Ocimene 2-3%; and linalool 2-3%.

Thus, one of the major constituents of palmarosa oil is geraniol which is a perfumery molecule which is included in many perfumes which are added to prepare shampoo formulations. However, the amount of geraniol as a part of palmarosa oil included in the present invention to obtain the desired anti dandruff efficacy is far more than what has conventionally been included as an ingredient in perfumes. Palmarosa oil for use in the present invention is prepared by steam distillation of palmarosa leaves followed by collection of the distillate which is then cooled. The oil phase is then separated from the water phase to prepare the palmarosa oil.

Palmarosa oil is included in the shampoo composition of the present invention in 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0%, furthermore preferably 0.8 to 1.2% by weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention also includes 0.1 to 5% on dry weight basis of aqueous extract of one or more of Azadirachta indica or Phyllanthus emblica.

Azadirachta indica is known in India as neem and is well known to have very good antimicrobial properties. The extract of Azadirachta indica for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the leaves of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Azadirachta indica is preferably included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 0.1 to 3%, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition.

Phyllanthus emblica is known in India as amla and the fruit of this plant is consumed as food. The extract of Phyllanthus emblica for use in the present invention is prepared from aqueous extract of the fruits of the plant. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Phyllanthus emblica in the composition is preferably included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 2%, more preferably 0.05 to 2%, furthermore preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention comprises extracts of both Azadirachta indica and Phyllanthus emblica. When both extracts are included they are present in 0.5 to 3%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may optionally additionally include extract of Rosmarinus officinalis, also known as Rosemary oil. It is an essential oil which is extracted from the leaf of the rosemary plant. The oil is generally known for its anti- microbial properties and therefore the present inventors were surprised that when high amounts of this oil was included in the shampoo composition, the odour characteristics was rendered pleasing and acceptable in spite of the inclusion of high amount of other natural extracts which do not have an acceptable odour. The Rosemary oil for use in the present invention was sourced from Shiva Export Corporation, India. The extract of Rosmarinus officinalis is preferably included in the composition on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 2% preferably 0.05 to 1 % by weight of the composition.

The shampoo composition of the invention may additionally comprise 0.01 to 1 % on dry weight basis of Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadenisis) aqueous extract.

Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadenisis) is well known herb for its soothing and nourishing properties and is also an anti-microbial agent. It is useful in shampoo formulations for nourishing scalp and works along with the other ingredients for anti-dandruff benefit. It has been sourced as a powder for use in the present invention from Chemiloids, India. The extract of Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadenisis) in the composition is preferably included on a dry weight basis at 0.01 to 2%, more preferably 0.05 to 2%, furthermore preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition. The Aloe vera for use in the present invention is preferably prepared by a process where the leaves of Aloe barbadensisis are subjected to hot water extraction. The recovered water extract is then concentrated and then dried and crushed to a powder.

The composition of the present invention may additionally comprise Natural Menthol (, Mentha arvensis) obtained from corn mint, peppermint, or other mint oils.

The present invention may additionally comprise an essential oil blend to impart pleasant odour to the shampoo composition. These essential oil blends may additionally enhance the antidandruff efficacy. These essential oil blends may comprise oils from plants like basil, patchouli, turmeric, citronella, cinnamon leaf, cedar wood, peppermint, orange, lemon, lime, petitgrain and lemon grass. Of these, essential oils like lemon oil, petit grain oil, basil and patchouli are more preferred for inclusion in the composition of the invention. These additional essential oils are preferably included in 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition. The composition of the invention preferably additionally comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The carrier is preferably chosen such that the composition of the invention can be delivered for use as an antidandruff shampoo composition. As per one aspect the cosmetically acceptable carrier is water or an aqueous solution. According to another preferred aspect, the carrier additionally comprises a surfactant. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle is such that the composition can be prepared as a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand wash or face wash product, cream, lotion, gel, powder, ointment, or a soap bar.

As per the invention, the composition is a shampoo. The composition of the invention especially shampoos are formulated with an anionic surfactant e.g. an alkyl sulphate and/or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate surfactant. These anionic surfactants are preferably present at a level of from 1 to 20%, preferably 2 to 16%, further more preferably from 3 to 16% by weight of the composition. Preferred alkyl sulfates are C8 to 18 alky sulfates, more preferably C12 to 18 alkyl sulfates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.

Preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula: R0(CH₂CH₂0)_nSC>₃M;

wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value of greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3, more preferably between 2 and 3; and M is a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. An example is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). SLES having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably 1 to 3 is especially preferred.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more further anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

A composition of the invention preferably additionally comprises an amphoteric surfactant preferably a betaine surfactant preferably an alkyl amidopropyl betaine surfactant for example cocamidopropyl betaine. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8 wt.%, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt.% of a betaine surfactant. To enhance deposition of actives from compositions of the invention especially shampoos, cationic polymers are generally included therein. In the present invention too, it is preferred that the composition additionally includes 0.01 to 2.0% of a cationic polymer. The cationic polymer is preferably guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar polymer predominantly contains galactomannan polymer chains. This polymer is available at various molecular weights and degree of cationic substitutions depending on how much the guar has been hydrolysed and cationised. The cationic polymer is preferably present in 0.04 to 0.5%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.25% by weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition is preferably equal to or higher than 4.0, more preferably in the range of 5.0 to 10.0.

Preferably the composition of the invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives.

Suspending agent, if included, will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% on the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, and natural hair nutrients such as botanicals, fruit extracts, sugar derivatives and amino acids.

The composition of the invention is preferably aqueous based. Water is a preferred carrier. When water is present, it is preferably present in at least 1 %, more preferably at least 2%, further more preferably at least 5% by weight of the composition. Alternatively, when water is the carrier, it is preferred that the composition of the invention comprises 10 to 90% by weight water. The composition of the invention preferably comprises high amounts of water preferably from 70 to 95% by weight of the composition.

Conditioning benefits may also be delivered through the shampoo composition of the invention by including a conditioning agent therein. Typically, the most popular conditioning agents used in hair care compositions are water-insoluble oily materials such as mineral oils, naturally occurring oils such as triglycerides and silicone polymers. Conditioning benefit is achieved by the oily material being deposited onto the hair resulting in the formation of a film, which makes the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry. An especially useful conditioning agent is a silicone compound, preferably a non-volatile silicone compound. Advantageously compositions herein may include one or more silicones. The silicones are conditioning agents found in dispersed or suspended particulate form. They are intended to deposit onto hair remaining behind after rinsing of the hair with water. Suitable silicone oils may include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof. Amino silicones are often formulated with shampoo compositions. Amino silicones are silicones containing at least one primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. High molecular weight silicone gums can also be utilized. Another useful type are the crosslinked silicone elastomers such as Dimethicone/Vinyl/Dimethicone Crosspolymers (e.g. Dow Corning 9040 and 9041 ).

Amounts of the silicone in compositions where present may range from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8wt.%, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 5wt.% by weight of the hair care compositions.

Preferred compositions may include other known ingredients such as perfumes, pigments, preservatives, emollients, sunscreens, emulsifiers, gelling agents and thickening agents. Choice of these ingredients will largely depend on the format of the composition.

The invention also relates to a method of providing anti dandruff benefit to scalp comprising applying a composition of the invention on to scalp and optionally followed by rinsing the surface with water. The method is preferably for providing non-therapeutic benefits.

Also disclosed in accordance with this invention is use of the composition for delivering anti- dandruff benefits, which is preferably non-therapeutic.

The following non-limiting examples further illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention. All percentages referred to in the examples and throughout this specification are based on total weight unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

Examples A, 1 : Antifungal efficacy of compositions as per the invention:

The shampoo samples as given in Table - 1 were subjected to their anti fungal efficacy on M. furfur as described hereinafter.

The following shampoo compositions as shown in Table - 1 was prepared.

Table - 1

^*Anti dandruff actives was a mixture of 1 % palmarosa oil, 1 % extract of Azhadirachta indica and 0.5% of extract of Phyllanthus emblica (all on dry weight basis)

The shampoo samples were tested for antifungal efficacy using the following protocol: Microorganism Used: MJurfur ATCC 14521 and Concentration of the Sample: Neat

Microorganism preparation

The working culture was prepared by streaking the test culture from glycerol stock on sterile Modified Dixon Agar (MD), the plates were incubated at 32°C for 72 hrs. Similarly, a second subculture was prepared from first subculture. From second subculture a loopful of culture was inoculated in 10ml sterile Pityrosporum Broth (PB), the tube was incubated at 32°C for 72 to 96 hours. For fourth subculture, 1 ml of broth culture from third subculture was inoculated into fresh 10 ml sterile Pityrosporum Broth (PB), the tube was incubated at 32°C for 48 hours.

Preparation of Agar Slurry (To be prepared just before use):

From last subculture, 10ml of the culture was transferred into 90ml agar slurry, maintained at 50°C in a water bath.

Counting of test suspension:

1 ml from the fourth subculture was taken & serially diluted with sterile saline up to10 ⁵, 0.1 ml from each dilution was processed using spread plate technique in duplicates on Modified Dixon Agar (MD) plates and were incubated at 32°C for 5 days.

Preparation of Vitro-Skin

1 . The Vitro-Skin was cut into 5.2 x 5.2 cm² squares using a pair of scissors and ruler which have been pre-sterilized by swabbing with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

2. The rough side of the skin was laid over the small XRF rings such that the rough side faces inside of the ring. Then the bigger ring was placed on top of the smaller one having skin laid over and pressed down to combine both the rings so as to form a complete XRF cell.

Treatment of vitro-skin with Shampoo

1 . 0.2 g of sample was weighed on each XRF cell.

2. 1 .8 ml of sterile glass distilled water was added aseptically.

3. The sample water mixture was rubbed on entire surface of the artificial skin for 30 seconds using stirring rods. After 30 seconds entire sample water mixture was aliquoted out. 4. Similarly, the artificial skin was rinsed and rubbed with 4 ml of sterile glass distilled water for 30 seconds. The rinsed liquid was aliquoted out. This step was repeated.

5. For water control, 2 ml of sterile distilled water was aliquoted into the XRF cell and above steps were repeated.

6. The XRF rings were dried overnight at room temperature.

7. All the sample and water control were tested in three replicates.

Inoculation of Test Organisms

1. The dried XRF cells were inoculated with 0.2 ml of agar slurry. The agar slurry was spread on to the surface of the artificial skin using sterile glass rods.

2. The inoculated XRF rings were placed onto jars containing MD agar such that no air bubbles were entrapped at the interface.

3. The jars were covered and incubated at 32°C for 24 hours.

Sampling of Vitro- Skin after inoculation and incubation

1. Post incubation the XRF cell was disassembled and the artificial skin was folded into half (inoculum side) inside and placed into a sterile bottle containing 10 ml of neutralizer (10 °).

2. The bottle containing the skin and neutralizer was sonicated for 2 min in an ultrasonic water bath.

3. While plating the bottle was vortexed for 1 min. 1 ml of mixture was aliquoted and 10 ¹, 10², 10 ³ dilutions were prepared using 9 ml of neutralizers. 0.1 ml of dilutions (10 °, 10 ¹, 10 ², 10 ³) in duplicates was processed using spread plate technique onto Modified Dixon Agar (MD) plate. Plates were incubated at 32°C ± 1°C for 5 days.

Reduction Viability R was calculated using the formula given below

Reduction viability= R (Logio Reduction) = Logio CFU (Sample) - Logio CFU (water control) The data on the antifungal activity in terms of log reduction is summarized in Table - 2 below:

Table - 2

The data in Table - 2 indicates that a composition as per the invention (Example 1 ) comprising purely natural actives provide provides for anti malassezia efficacy comparable to the best synthetic active (Example - A) presently available.

Claims

1. An antidandruff shampoo composition comprising 0.1 to 5% palmarosa

( Cymbopogon martyinii) oil and 0.1 to 5% on dry weight basis of aqueous extract of one or more of Azadirachta indica or Phyllanthus emblica, wherein the composition comprises aqueous extracts of Azadirachta indica and

Phyllanthus emblica.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein aqueous extract of Azadirachta indica is included in the composition at 0.1 to 2% on dry weight basis.

3. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein aqueous extract of Phyllanthus emblica is included in the composition at 0.01 to 2% on dry weight basis.

4. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprises 0.01 to 2 wt% of oil of Rosmarinus officinalis.

5. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprising 0.01 to 1 % on dry weight basis of Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadenisis) aqueous extract.

6. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprising an alkyl sulphate and/or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant.

7. A composition as claimed in claim 6 wherein said anionic surfactant is included in 2 to 16% by weight of the composition.

8. A composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims additionally

comprising a betaine surfactant.

9. A composition as claimed in claim 8 wherein the betaine surfactant is included in 1 to 3% by weight of the composition.

10. A method of providing anti dandruff benefit to scalp comprising applying a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims on to scalp and optionally followed by rinsing the surface with water.

1 1. Use of a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9 for delivering anti-dandruff benefits.