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WO2020095771A1 - Powdery composition for make-up use, comprising goniochromatic pigments and white pigments - Google Patents

Powdery composition for make-up use, comprising goniochromatic pigments and white pigments Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020095771A1
WO2020095771A1 PCT/JP2019/042441 JP2019042441W WO2020095771A1 WO 2020095771 A1 WO2020095771 A1 WO 2020095771A1 JP 2019042441 W JP2019042441 W JP 2019042441W WO 2020095771 A1 WO2020095771 A1 WO 2020095771A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
pigment
composition
composition according
goniochromatic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2019/042441
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French (fr)
Other versions
WO2020095771A8 (en
Inventor
Worawut KHUNSIN
Fumiyoshi Ikkai
Remain TACHON
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to KR1020217011974A priority Critical patent/KR102565530B1/en
Priority to CN201980070817.7A priority patent/CN112969507B/en
Publication of WO2020095771A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020095771A1/en
Publication of WO2020095771A8 publication Critical patent/WO2020095771A8/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A61K8/0258—Layered structure
    • A61K8/0266—Characterized by the sequence of layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/438—Thermochromatic; Photochromic; Phototropic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a powdery composition comprising goniochromatic pigments and white pigments, for a make-up for a keratinous substance such as skin, and a cosmetic process using the same.
  • Cosmetic powdery compositions for keratinous substances are used as make-up cosmetics such as a foundation powder and a finishing powder. These compositions are used to provide keratinous substances with an attractive appearance. Therefore, for cosmetic powdery compositions to serve as make-up cosmetics, aesthetic effects, such as effects to provide natural finish, three-dimensional appearance effects, and good coverage to keratinous substances, preferably skin, in particular facial skin, are very important. In order to impart such aesthetic effects to cosmetic powdery compositions, the use of goniochromatic pigments in the compositions has been proposed.
  • JP-A-H11-322541 discloses a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium; at least one first colorant; and at least one second colorant; wherein said first colorant is a goniochromatic colorant able to produce different colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle, said goniochromatic colorant being a multilayer interference structure, and said second colorant being a monochromatic colorant which produces one of the colors of said goniochromatic colorant.
  • US-B-5,008,l43 discloses a goniochromatic pigment exhibiting a multicolor effect consisting essentially of a transparent body, an interference pigment and an absorption colorant in which said absorption colorant is of a color which is different from the reflection color of the interference pigment or the complement thereof and in which the interference pigment and absorption colorant have the same order of magnitude of color intensity.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a powdery composition for make-up use, which can provide improved aesthetic effects, such as effects to provide natural finish, a three-dimensional appearance effect, and enough coverage efficacy to keratinous substances, preferably skin, in particular facial skin.
  • goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be selected from an iron oxide, such as Fe 2 0 3 , carmine, and ferric ferrocyanide, and preferably selected from Fe 2 0 3 and carmine.
  • the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be composed of mica, such as natural mica, synthetic mica, or glass, and preferably mica.
  • the interference color of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be selected from pink, red, orange, and yellow.
  • the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment .
  • the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the (b) white pigment may be selected from a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate, and coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof.
  • a metal oxide such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate
  • coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) white pigment may include a combination of two different white pigments.
  • the (b) white pigment may comprise or consist of titanium dioxide and titanium
  • the amount of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may range from 15 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) white pigment may range from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is for use as a cosmetic powdery composition, preferably a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, or eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder or a finishing powder.
  • a make-up powder such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, or eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder or a finishing powder.
  • composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for make-up for keratinous substances, preferably skin, comprising a step of applying onto the keratinous substances the composition according the present invention.
  • a combination of the (a) specific goniochromatic pigment in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the (b) white pigments in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition can provide an improved three-dimensional appearance and natural finish without metallic aspect to keratinous substances, in particular the face, while maintaining a good coverage to cover skin imperfections, such as blemishes, wrinkles, and pores, and thus they have completed the present invention.
  • the powdery composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the powdery composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one goniochromatic pigment.
  • Two or more (a) goniochromatic pigments may be used in combination.
  • a single type of goniochromatic pigment or a combination of different types of goniochromatic pigments may be used.
  • pigments here should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in a medium in the composition.
  • goniochromatic pigment here can be understood to mean a pigment exhibiting a goniochromatic property producing different colors depending on the incidence of light and the angle of observation. Therefore, the (a) goniochromatic pigment is able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle.
  • Goniochromatic pigments have in general an interferential multilayer structure composed of an optical transmissive platelet and a coating of interference pigments on the platelet. The multilayers may make it possible to allow the creation of changes in color, hue and lightness by interference of light rays, which diffract and diffuse differently according to the layers.
  • goniochromatic pigments can include at least one absorption colorant in the coating.
  • goniochromatic pigments can exhibit two distinct colors: an
  • the (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide as an interference pigment, and a colorant as an absorption pigment.
  • the material of the optical transmissive platelet is not limited as long as it is optically transmissive.
  • Examples of the material of the Optical transmissive platelet include mica, such as natural mica and synthetic mica, and glass.
  • the optical transmissive platelet of the goniochromatic pigment is made of mica, such as natural mica and synthetic mica.
  • the coating of interference pigments of titanium dioxide on the optical transmissive platelet of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may have a thickness ranging from 10 to 300 nm, preferably 20 to 200 nm, and more preferably, 30 to 150 nm.
  • the colorant examples include, but are not limited to, an iron oxide, such as Fe 2 0 3 , carmine, ferric ferrocyanide Fe 4 [Fe(CN) 6 ] 3 , and mixtures thereof.
  • the colorant in the goniochromatic pigment is selected from Fe 2 0 3 and carmine.
  • The“colorant” here does not include titanium dioxide which is used as an interference pigment in the (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention.
  • the (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention exhibits a reflection color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold.
  • the reflection color is selected from pink, red, orange, and yellow.
  • the absorption color of the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not particularly limited, but is preferably selected from gold, red, orange, yellow, and blue, more preferably gold, orange, and yellow.
  • the (a) goniochromatic pigment may have an average particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, and more preferably 5 pm or more.
  • the (a) goniochromatic pigment may have an average particle size of 200 pm or less, preferably 150 pm or less, and more preferably 100 pm or less, and in particular 50 pm or less.
  • the term“average particle size” used herein represents a number-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50.
  • the number-average size mean diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer from Malvern Corp.
  • the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the upper limit of the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably from 70% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the
  • the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the upper limit of the content of the titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 55% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the upper limit of the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
  • the content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition according to the present invention is from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition is 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition is 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Therefore, the content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition according to the present invention may be preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one white pigment.
  • Two or more (b) white pigments may be used in combination.
  • a single type of white pigment or a combination of different types of white pigments may be used.
  • the (b) white pigment used in the composition according to the present invention may denote a mineral or organic particle which is white, coated or uncoated, spherical or non-spherical, and porous or non- porous.
  • the (b) white pigment may be chosen from, but is not limited to, a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate, and coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the coating layers of the pigments are not particularly limited as long as they show a white color, but may be a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, tin oxide, and the like.
  • the (b) white pigment is chosen from a metal oxide, boron nitride, and metal oxide-coated pigments.
  • the (b) white pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, boron nitride, and titanium dioxide-coated pigments, such as titanium dioxide-coated mica and titanium dioxide-coated fluorphlogopite.
  • the (b) white pigment includes a combination of at least two different white pigments.
  • the (b) white pigment comprises or consists of a combination of at least one metal oxide and at least one metal oxide-coated pigment.
  • the (b) white pigment comprises or consists of at least one titanium dioxide and at least one titanium dioxide-coated pigment in combination.
  • the metal oxide-coated pigment can be included in an amount greater than that of the metal oxide.
  • the (b) white pigment has a refractive index of 1.6 or more, preferably 2.0 or more, and more preferably 2.3 or more.
  • the average particle size of the (b) white pigment is not particularly limited, but may range from 0.01 pm to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.05 pm to 30 pm.
  • the average particle size of non-coated pigments such as metal oxide, boron nitride and barium sulfate may range from 0.05 pm to 0.5 pm, and preferably from 0.1 pm to 0.3 pm.
  • the average particle size of the coated pigment may range from 1 pm to 50 pm, preferably from 10 pm to 30 pm. Examples of the (b) white pigment which is commercially available include:
  • the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition is 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition is 12% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Therefore, the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition according to the present invention may preferably be from 1 to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably include at least one filler.
  • the composition according to the present invention may include one or more organic and/or inorganic fillers, in addition to the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition.
  • the fillers may be of any shape: platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
  • inorganic fillers mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally hydrophilic- or
  • organic fillers mention may be made of (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, for example, polymethylmethacrylate powders; polyacrylonitrile powders; organopolysiloxane powders, polyamide powders, poly-P-alanine powders and polyethylene powders,
  • polytetrafluoroethylene powders lauroyllysine, rice or com starch, such as com starch: INCI name: Zea Mays (Com) Starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, for example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, silicone powder, such as silicone resin powder, polyorganosilsesquioxane powder, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer powder, and a polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powders, camauba microwaxes, synthetic microwaxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • com starch INCI name: Zea Mays (Com) Starch
  • tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders hollow poly
  • the filler may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight and more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise one or more colouring agents, which may be chosen from pigments, which are different from the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment, such as mineral pigments, lakes, and nacres.
  • the composition includes nacres as the colouring agent in addition to the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment.
  • the mineral pigments which are different from the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment, may be chosen from, for example, iron oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
  • the lakes which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from cochineal carmine, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluoran dyes, insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes.
  • Nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • beige nacre sold under the name of Colorona® Oriental Beige by Merck.
  • the colouring agents may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably include at least one oil.
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-volatile oil.
  • the oil may be selected from:
  • oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 and especially from Cis to C 36 , these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea buter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
  • oils of formula RICOOR 2 in which Rj represents a linear or branched faty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R 2 > 10.
  • the esters may be chosen especially from faty acid esters of alcohols, for example, cetyl esters, in particular, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl oct
  • neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;
  • silicone oils such as linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as dimethyl
  • organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
  • fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones;
  • - faty alcohols that are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms: mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol,
  • the oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise additives as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention and they are acceptable in cosmetic use.
  • the additives may be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; natural or synthetic thickeners; lubricants or dispersants, such as sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example, sorbitan sesquioleate; gelling agents; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; cosmetically acceptable hydrophobic organic solvents; preservatives, such as sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, and chlorphenesin; co-preservatives, such as decylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, and caprylyl glycol; bactericides; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; stabilizers, such as magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition of the present invention is a powdery cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance, such as skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, in particular facial skin, and more preferably a skin cosmetic make-up composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder.
  • composition according to the present invention can provide an improved natural and three-dimensional appearance to keratinous substances, in particular the face, while
  • composition according to the present invention can provide a natural appearance of smaller and more defined facial features.
  • the use of the composition according to the present invention can create a three-dimensional appearance or volume effect on the face, and thus it is not required to use different types of powder cosmetics which has been conventionally required to create the three-dimensional appearance.
  • the use of the present invention does not require a high level of skill for consumers to create the three-dimensional appearance on their faces. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is very suitable for use as a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.
  • the composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, and more preferably is not present in the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various ingredients used in the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process including a step of applying to keratinous substances, such as skin, preferably facial skin, the composition according to the present invention.
  • the composition can be picked up with an applicator, such as a sponge, puff, or brush, by rubbing off the powder.
  • the composition can then be moved from the applicator to the skin by contacting the applicator on the skin.
  • composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition.
  • leave-on means a composition that is not intended to be washed off or removed immediately after application.
  • the cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide keratinous substances, in particular the face with an attractive appearance of a natural look, and smaller and more defined features.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment as a make-up active in a cosmetic powdery composition, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.
  • compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 , and then pressing with a press machine to obtain pressed powder foundation. The compositions are shown in Table 1. In Table 1 , all components are based on“% by weight” as active raw materials. [Evaluation]
  • compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated with respect to three key properties of a three-dimensional appearance effect, natural finish, and coverage efficacy by 7 monitors.
  • Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was applied on the monitors’ faces by the monitors themselves and the monitors evaluated if they were able to perceive a three-dimensional appearance effect, enough coverage, and natural finish after application.
  • Table 1 shows how many people perceived each effect. +++ : 6-7 persons perceived the effect
  • - Goniochromatic Pigment (c): Product name: Relief Color ® Beige; this pigment comprises 75% by weight of mica, 15% by weight of titanium dioxide, 5% by weight of iron oxides, and 5% by weight of silica. Interference color is silver.
  • compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 which do not comprise the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention, could not provide enough natural finish or three-dimensional appearance effect.
  • the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3 which do not comprise the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention, could not provide enough natural finish or three-dimensional appearance effect.
  • Comparative Example 4 which includes the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention but in a small amount, could not provide enough three-dimensional appearance effect and coverage efficacy.
  • composition according to Example 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2, and then pressing with a press machine to obtain a pressed powder foundation.
  • the composition is shown in Table 2. In Table 2, all components are based on“% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • - Goniochromatic Pigment (a): Product name: Duocrome® YR 422C by BASF; this pigment comprises 52.5% by weight of mica, 43.5% by weight of titanium dioxide, and 4% by weight of F e 2 0 3 . Interference color is red. It was also confirmed that the composition according to Example 2 could provide the three key properties of remarkable three-dimensional appearance effect, natural finish, and good coverage efficacy with the monitor test. Therefore, it can be concluded that the powdery composition according to the present invention is very preferable for use as a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.
  • a make-up powder such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a powdery composition comprising: (a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION
POWDERY COMPOSITION FOR MAKE-UP USE, COMPRISING GONIOCHROMATIC
PIGMENTS AND WHITE PIGMENTS
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a powdery composition comprising goniochromatic pigments and white pigments, for a make-up for a keratinous substance such as skin, and a cosmetic process using the same.
BACKGROUND ART
Cosmetic powdery compositions for keratinous substances are used as make-up cosmetics such as a foundation powder and a finishing powder. These compositions are used to provide keratinous substances with an attractive appearance. Therefore, for cosmetic powdery compositions to serve as make-up cosmetics, aesthetic effects, such as effects to provide natural finish, three-dimensional appearance effects, and good coverage to keratinous substances, preferably skin, in particular facial skin, are very important. In order to impart such aesthetic effects to cosmetic powdery compositions, the use of goniochromatic pigments in the compositions has been proposed.
For example, JP-A-H11-322541 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium; at least one first colorant; and at least one second colorant; wherein said first colorant is a goniochromatic colorant able to produce different colors depending on the light incidence and viewing angle, said goniochromatic colorant being a multilayer interference structure, and said second colorant being a monochromatic colorant which produces one of the colors of said goniochromatic colorant.
In addition, US-B-5,008,l43 discloses a goniochromatic pigment exhibiting a multicolor effect consisting essentially of a transparent body, an interference pigment and an absorption colorant in which said absorption colorant is of a color which is different from the reflection color of the interference pigment or the complement thereof and in which the interference pigment and absorption colorant have the same order of magnitude of color intensity.
However, there is still a demand for cosmetic powdery products with improved cosmetic effects. In particular, there is a demand for cosmetic powdery products providing aesthetic effects such as effects to provide natural finish, three-dimensional appearance effects, and good coverage to keratinous substances, preferably skin, in particular facial skin.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a powdery composition for make-up use, which can provide improved aesthetic effects, such as effects to provide natural finish, a three-dimensional appearance effect, and enough coverage efficacy to keratinous substances, preferably skin, in particular facial skin.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a powdery composition comprising:
(a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be selected from an iron oxide, such as Fe203, carmine, and ferric ferrocyanide, and preferably selected from Fe203 and carmine.
The optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be composed of mica, such as natural mica, synthetic mica, or glass, and preferably mica.
The interference color of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may be selected from pink, red, orange, and yellow.
The content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
The content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment .
The content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
The (b) white pigment may be selected from a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate, and coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof.
The (b) white pigment may include a combination of two different white pigments.
The (b) white pigment may comprise or consist of titanium dioxide and titanium
dioxide-coated pigment in combination.
The amount of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may range from 15 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (b) white pigment may range from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one preferred aspect of the present invention, the composition is for use as a cosmetic powdery composition, preferably a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, or eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder or a finishing powder.
The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous or contain less than 3% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for make-up for keratinous substances, preferably skin, comprising a step of applying onto the keratinous substances the composition according the present invention.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly found that a combination of the (a) specific goniochromatic pigment in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the (b) white pigments in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition can provide an improved three-dimensional appearance and natural finish without metallic aspect to keratinous substances, in particular the face, while maintaining a good coverage to cover skin imperfections, such as blemishes, wrinkles, and pores, and thus they have completed the present invention.
Thus, the powdery composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.
[Composition]
The powdery composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Goniochromatic Pigment)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one goniochromatic pigment. Two or more (a) goniochromatic pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of goniochromatic pigment or a combination of different types of goniochromatic pigments may be used.
The term“pigments” here should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in a medium in the composition.
The term“goniochromatic pigment” here can be understood to mean a pigment exhibiting a goniochromatic property producing different colors depending on the incidence of light and the angle of observation. Therefore, the (a) goniochromatic pigment is able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle. Goniochromatic pigments have in general an interferential multilayer structure composed of an optical transmissive platelet and a coating of interference pigments on the platelet. The multilayers may make it possible to allow the creation of changes in color, hue and lightness by interference of light rays, which diffract and diffuse differently according to the layers.
In addition, goniochromatic pigments can include at least one absorption colorant in the coating. In this case, goniochromatic pigments can exhibit two distinct colors: an
“absorption color” which can be produced from the absorption colorant and a“reflection color” which can be produced by reflection from an interference pigment, depending on the angle of viewing. At the normal angle of viewing, the reflection color of the interference pigment is seen. At the diffuse angle or the grazing angle, the reflection color of the interference pigment is no longer observed and the absorption color is now seen. Thus by changing the angle of viewing from the normal angle to a grazing angle, the color changes from the reflection color by the interference to the absorption color by the absorption pigment. The (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide as an interference pigment, and a colorant as an absorption pigment.
The material of the optical transmissive platelet is not limited as long as it is optically transmissive. Examples of the material of the Optical transmissive platelet include mica, such as natural mica and synthetic mica, and glass. Preferably, the optical transmissive platelet of the goniochromatic pigment is made of mica, such as natural mica and synthetic mica.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the coating of interference pigments of titanium dioxide on the optical transmissive platelet of the (a) goniochromatic pigment may have a thickness ranging from 10 to 300 nm, preferably 20 to 200 nm, and more preferably, 30 to 150 nm.
Examples of the colorant include, but are not limited to, an iron oxide, such as Fe203, carmine, ferric ferrocyanide Fe4[Fe(CN)6]3, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the colorant in the goniochromatic pigment is selected from Fe203 and carmine. The“colorant” here does not include titanium dioxide which is used as an interference pigment in the (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention. The (a) goniochromatic pigment of the present invention exhibits a reflection color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold. Preferably, the reflection color is selected from pink, red, orange, and yellow. The absorption color of the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not particularly limited, but is preferably selected from gold, red, orange, yellow, and blue, more preferably gold, orange, and yellow. The (a) goniochromatic pigment may have an average particle size of 0.5 pm or more, preferably 1 pm or more, and more preferably 5 pm or more. The (a) goniochromatic pigment may have an average particle size of 200 pm or less, preferably 150 pm or less, and more preferably 100 pm or less, and in particular 50 pm or less. The term“average particle size” used herein represents a number-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50. For example, the number-average size mean diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer from Malvern Corp.
The content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment. The upper limit of the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably from 70% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the
goniochromatic pigment.
Therefore, the content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
The content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment. The upper limit of the content of the titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 55% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
Therefore, the content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
The content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment. The upper limit of the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment is not limited, but may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
Therefore, the content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment can range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
The content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition according to the present invention is from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the content the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition is 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition is 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Therefore, the content of the (a) goniochromatic pigment in the composition according to the present invention may be preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
(White Pigment)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one white pigment. Two or more (b) white pigments may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of white pigment or a combination of different types of white pigments may be used.
The (b) white pigment used in the composition according to the present invention may denote a mineral or organic particle which is white, coated or uncoated, spherical or non-spherical, and porous or non- porous.
The (b) white pigment may be chosen from, but is not limited to, a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate, and coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof. The coating layers of the pigments are not particularly limited as long as they show a white color, but may be a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, tin oxide, and the like.
Preferentially, the (b) white pigment is chosen from a metal oxide, boron nitride, and metal oxide-coated pigments. In particular, the (b) white pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, boron nitride, and titanium dioxide-coated pigments, such as titanium dioxide-coated mica and titanium dioxide-coated fluorphlogopite.
In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) white pigment includes a combination of at least two different white pigments. In particular, the (b) white pigment comprises or consists of a combination of at least one metal oxide and at least one metal oxide-coated pigment. Especially, the (b) white pigment comprises or consists of at least one titanium dioxide and at least one titanium dioxide-coated pigment in combination. In these embodiments, the metal oxide-coated pigment can be included in an amount greater than that of the metal oxide.
In one preferable embodiment of the present invention, the (b) white pigment has a refractive index of 1.6 or more, preferably 2.0 or more, and more preferably 2.3 or more.
The average particle size of the (b) white pigment is not particularly limited, but may range from 0.01 pm to 50 pm, and preferably from 0.05 pm to 30 pm. The average particle size of non-coated pigments such as metal oxide, boron nitride and barium sulfate may range from 0.05 pm to 0.5 pm, and preferably from 0.1 pm to 0.3 pm. The average particle size of the coated pigment may range from 1 pm to 50 pm, preferably from 10 pm to 30 pm. Examples of the (b) white pigment which is commercially available include:
- titanium dioxide-coated mica sold under the name of Timica Terra White® by BASF;
- boron nitride sold under the name of Ronaflair Boroneige® by Merck and TRES BN® Cosmetic Powder Grade PUHP3002 by Saint-Gobain; and
- synthetic fluorphlogopite coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide sold under the name of SynCrystal Soft Silver® by Eckart.
The content of the (b) white pigment in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition is 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition is 12% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Therefore, the content of the (b) white pigment in the composition according to the present invention may preferably be from 1 to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Other Ingredients)
- Filler
The composition according to the present invention may preferably include at least one filler. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention may include one or more organic and/or inorganic fillers, in addition to the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment.
The term“fillers” should be understood as meaning mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition.
The fillers may be of any shape: platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
As the inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally hydrophilic- or
hydrophobic-treated.
As the organic fillers, mention may be made of (meth)acrylic or (meth)acrylate powders, for example, polymethylmethacrylate powders; polyacrylonitrile powders; organopolysiloxane powders, polyamide powders, poly-P-alanine powders and polyethylene powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene powders, lauroyllysine, rice or com starch, such as com starch: INCI name: Zea Mays (Com) Starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, for example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, silicone powder, such as silicone resin powder, polyorganosilsesquioxane powder, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer powder, and a polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powders, camauba microwaxes, synthetic microwaxes, and mixtures thereof.
The filler may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight and more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Colouring Agent(s)
The compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise one or more colouring agents, which may be chosen from pigments, which are different from the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment, such as mineral pigments, lakes, and nacres. Especially, the composition includes nacres as the colouring agent in addition to the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment.
The mineral pigments, which are different from the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment, may be chosen from, for example, iron oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
The lakes, which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from cochineal carmine, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluoran dyes, insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes.
Nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Regarding commercial products of the nacres, mention may be made of beige nacre sold under the name of Colorona® Oriental Beige by Merck.
The colouring agents may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Oil
The composition according to the present invention may preferably include at least one oil.
The oil can be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the oil may be a non-volatile oil.
The oil may be selected from:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4to C36 and especially from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea buter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotonseed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, com oil, meadowfoam oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RICOOR2, in which Rj represents a linear or branched faty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 > 10. The esters may be chosen especially from faty acid esters of alcohols, for example, cetyl esters, in particular, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, Ci2-Cl5 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl
neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl
neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;
- silicone oils, such as linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic
organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
- fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones;
- faty alcohols that are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms: mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol,
2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol; and
- mixtures thereof.
The oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Additives
The composition according to the present invention may comprise additives as long as they do not impair the effects of the present invention and they are acceptable in cosmetic use. The additives may be selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; natural or synthetic thickeners; lubricants or dispersants, such as sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example, sorbitan sesquioleate; gelling agents; natural extracts derived from animals or vegetables; waxes; cosmetically acceptable hydrophobic organic solvents; preservatives, such as sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, and chlorphenesin; co-preservatives, such as decylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, and caprylyl glycol; bactericides; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; stabilizers, such as magnesium sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
The composition of the present invention is a powdery cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance, such as skin, for example, of the face, neck and body, in particular facial skin, and more preferably a skin cosmetic make-up composition. The composition according to the present invention can be provided in the form of a compact or pressed powder, blusher or a loose powder.
The composition according to the present invention can provide an improved natural and three-dimensional appearance to keratinous substances, in particular the face, while
maintaining a good coverage to cover skin imperfections, such as blemishes, wrinkles, and pores. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a natural appearance of smaller and more defined facial features.
It should be noted that the use of the composition according to the present invention can create a three-dimensional appearance or volume effect on the face, and thus it is not required to use different types of powder cosmetics which has been conventionally required to create the three-dimensional appearance. In addition, the use of the present invention does not require a high level of skill for consumers to create the three-dimensional appearance on their faces. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is very suitable for use as a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.
The composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term“anhydrous” especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, and more preferably is not present in the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various ingredients used in the composition.
[Cosmetic Process]
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process including a step of applying to keratinous substances, such as skin, preferably facial skin, the composition according to the present invention. The composition can be picked up with an applicator, such as a sponge, puff, or brush, by rubbing off the powder. The composition can then be moved from the applicator to the skin by contacting the applicator on the skin.
The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" means a composition that is not intended to be washed off or removed immediately after application.
Since the composition according to the present invention can provide an improved natural and three-dimensional appearance to keratinous substances, in particular the face, while maintaining a good coverage efficacy, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide keratinous substances, in particular the face with an attractive appearance of a natural look, and smaller and more defined features. The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of the (a) goniochromatic pigment and the (b) white pigment as a make-up active in a cosmetic powdery composition, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder. EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
< Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 >
[Composition] The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 , and then pressing with a press machine to obtain pressed powder foundation. The compositions are shown in Table 1. In Table 1 , all components are based on“% by weight” as active raw materials. [Evaluation]
The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated with respect to three key properties of a three-dimensional appearance effect, natural finish, and coverage efficacy by 7 monitors. Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was applied on the monitors’ faces by the monitors themselves and the monitors evaluated if they were able to perceive a three-dimensional appearance effect, enough coverage, and natural finish after application. Table 1 shows how many people perceived each effect. +++ : 6-7 persons perceived the effect
++ : 4-5 persons perceived the effect
+ : 2-3 persons perceived the effect
: 0-1 persons perceived the effect Table 1
Figure imgf000013_0001
- Goniochromatic Pigment (a): Product name: Duocrome® YR 422C by BASF; this pigment comprises 52.5% by weight of mica, 43.5% by weight of titanium dioxide, and 4% by weight of Fe203. Interference color is red.
- Goniochromatic Pigment (b): Product name: Sicopearl ®; this pigment comprises 52.5% by weight of silica, 32.5% by weight of aluminum powder, and 15% by weight of iron oxides. Interference color is red.
- Goniochromatic Pigment (c): Product name: Relief Color ® Beige; this pigment comprises 75% by weight of mica, 15% by weight of titanium dioxide, 5% by weight of iron oxides, and 5% by weight of silica. Interference color is silver.
- Goniochromatic Pigment (d): Product name: Relief Color ® Pink; this pigment comprises 83% by weight of mica, 16% by weight of titanium dioxide, and 1% by weight of iron oxide. Interference color is silver. As can be seen from the evaluation results in Table 1, the composition according to Example 1 including a combination of the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention and the white pigment in a specific amount exhibited a superior three-dimensional appearance effect, natural finish, and enough coverage efficacy.
On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not comprise the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention, could not provide enough natural finish or three-dimensional appearance effect. The composition according to
Comparative Example 4, which includes the goniochromatic pigment of the present invention but in a small amount, could not provide enough three-dimensional appearance effect and coverage efficacy. The composition according to Comparative Example 5, which does not include white pigment, could not provide coverage efficacy.
< Example 2 >
The composition according to Example 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2, and then pressing with a press machine to obtain a pressed powder foundation. The composition is shown in Table 2. In Table 2, all components are based on“% by weight” as active raw materials.
Table 2
Figure imgf000014_0001
- Goniochromatic Pigment (a): Product name: Duocrome® YR 422C by BASF; this pigment comprises 52.5% by weight of mica, 43.5% by weight of titanium dioxide, and 4% by weight of F e203. Interference color is red. It was also confirmed that the composition according to Example 2 could provide the three key properties of remarkable three-dimensional appearance effect, natural finish, and good coverage efficacy with the monitor test. Therefore, it can be concluded that the powdery composition according to the present invention is very preferable for use as a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, and eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder and a finishing powder.

Claims

1. A powdery composition comprising:
(a) at least one goniochromatic pigment able to produce different colors depending on light incidence and viewing angle, wherein the goniochromatic pigment comprises an optical transmissive platelet, titanium dioxide, and a colorant and exhibits an interference color selected from pink, red, orange, yellow, and gold, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
(b) at least one white pigment in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the colorant is selected from an iron oxide, such as Fe203, carmine, and ferric ferrocyanide, and preferably selected from Fe203 and carmine.
3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the optical transmissive platelet is composed of mica, such as natural mica, synthetic mica, or glass, and preferably mica.
4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
interference color of the (a) goniochromatic pigment is selected from pink, red, orange, and yellow.
5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a content of the optical transmissive platelet in the (a) goniochromatic pigment ranges from 20 to 85% by weight, preferably from 30 to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a content of titanium dioxide in the (a) goniochromatic pigment ranges from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a content of the colorant in the (a) goniochromatic pigment ranges from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the goniochromatic pigment.
8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) white pigment is selected from a metal oxide, such as titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium dioxide, zinc oxide, boron nitride, barium sulfate, and coated pigments such as coated mica, coated sericite, coated fluorphlogopite, coated kaolin, and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) white pigment includes a combination of two different white pigments.
10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) white pigment comprises or consists of titanium dioxide and titanium dioxide-coated pigment in combination.
11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (a) goniochromatic pigment ranges from 15 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the (b) white pigment ranges from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims for use as a cosmetic powdery composition, preferably a make-up powder, such as a foundation powder, a finishing powder or a face powder, a body makeup product, a blusher, or eyeshadow, in particular a foundation powder or a finishing powder.
14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is anhydrous or contains less than 3% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. A cosmetic process for make-up for keratinous substances, preferably skin,
comprising a step of applying onto the keratinous substances the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
PCT/JP2019/042441 2018-11-06 2019-10-23 Powdery composition for make-up use, comprising goniochromatic pigments and white pigments Ceased WO2020095771A1 (en)

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