WO2019116591A1 - Woven or knitted fabric for clothing and clothing using same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, the woven or knitted fabric being mainly composed of animal hair fibers, wherein yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric are two-ply yarns (20, 25), and at least one of the two-ply yarns (20, 25) is a core-sheath structure yarn (23) having a core (21) of a polyester stretch-broken spun yarn and a sheath (22) containing animal fibers. This woven or knitted fabric is suitable for clothing, especially suits. As an example, the top is a two-ply fabric having the single-stitch structure shown in FIG. 2 (A), and the bottom is a fabric having the double-stitch structure shown in FIG. 2 (B). As a result, a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, and clothing using the woven or knitted fabric can be provided, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is high in strength, does not easily tear, and rarely suffers from pilling.

Description

Woven and knitted garments and garments using the same

The present invention relates to a woven or knitted garment for clothes containing animal hair fibers and a garment using the same.

Persons in charge such as the Imperial Palace Police, the security police, and the plain clothes detective are obliged to wear a suit. These people have long time standing up, but in the event of an emergency, they encounter extremely severe situations such as being exposed to flames, resulting in severe burns and cases of catastrophe such as death There were a number of occurrences. On the other hand, from the point of view of protection, investigation, surveillance, inspection, as a suit for those in charge of these types of work, the appropriate dignity, light weight, easy to operate, strong and long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, easy care, relatively inexpensive It is also necessary to have such characteristics.

Conventionally, Patent Document 1 proposes a composite spun yarn having an elastic fiber as a core and covered with a short fiber such as wool and a sheath fiber of a synthetic fiber multifilament. Patent Document 2 proposes a garment composed of a twisted yarn of animal hair yarn and normal-pressure dyed polyester fiber yarn. However, the conventional suit fabric and the garment using the same have the following problems.

(1) Generally, most commercially available suits are fine count fine fibers or blended fabrics with polyester, and these are easily flammable as total fire (that is, marred) in the JIS L 1091 A-4 vertical burning test. Show the remarkable behavior of the sex material.

(2) The wool material can be provided with flame retardancy by Zapro processing, but since polyester is a flammable material, the flame retardancy of blend, cross-combustion, cross-weaving, cross-knit etc has not been realized until now .

(3) Pure hair suits feel good and feel high quality, but their strength is low only because they are animal hair yarns, and special care is required for washing and ironing.

(4) On the other hand, in the case of blended fabrics etc., since polyester is used at a considerably lower cost than wool, it is cheap and strong but it is easy to cause pill (pill) and it has a problem of poor quality because texture is hard. there were.

Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2010-209487 JP 10-077542 A

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric for clothes which is relatively inexpensive, high in strength and hard to break, difficult to cause pilling, and hard to burn, and clothes using the same.

The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric for clothes comprising animal hair fiber as a main component, and the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a double yarn, and at least one single yarn of the double yarn has a core. A polyester check-cut spun yarn, wherein the sheath is a core-sheath structured yarn containing animal hair fiber.

The present invention is a garment using the aforementioned woven or knitted garment, characterized in that the garment is a suit.

The present invention is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns, wherein at least one of the two single yarns is a cut-off spun yarn having a core at the core, and an animal hair fiber at the sheath Core-sheath structure yarn, wherein the strength of the core portion is higher than the strength of the sheath portion.

In the present invention, the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a double yarn, and at least one single yarn of the double yarn is a core-sheath yarn having a core of polyester check-cut spun yarn and a sheath of animal hair fiber, It is possible to provide a woven or knitted garment for clothes that is relatively inexpensive, high strength, hard to tear, difficult to cause pilling, and hard to burn, and clothes using the same. That is, by using a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a polyester check-cut spun yarn and the sheath portion contains an animal hair fiber in at least one single yarn of the twin yarn, the sheath fiber wraps the draft-cut spun yarn of the core In order to unite with each other, the degree of conjugation of each of the fibers constituting the core-sheath structure yarn is extremely high, inexpensive, high in strength and difficult to tear, and polyester forming the basis of pill is concentrated at the core portion and the surface of woven and knitted fabric And it is extremely difficult for pilling to occur. In addition, it has appropriate dignity, light weight, easy to operate, strong and long lasting, wrinkle resistant, easy care, etc. In addition, when the flame retardancy is imparted, a woven or knitted garment for clothes suitable for a protective suit and a garment using the same can be provided.

Further, the yarn of the present invention is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns, and of the two single yarns, at least one of the single yarns is a draft cut spun yarn whose core is a sheath, and a sheath The part is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fiber, and the strength of the core part is higher than the strength of the sheath part, so that it is relatively inexpensive, yet has good texture and high strength.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing an essential part of a ring spinning machine for producing a core-sheath structure yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention. Fig.2 (A)-(B) is typical sectional drawing of the twin thread in one example of the present invention, and Fig.2 (A) is an example of twin thread of a core-sheath structure single thread and a pure wool single thread, a figure. 2 (B) is an example of a core-sheath double yarn. FIG. 3 is a schematic explanatory view of flame-retardant processed wool in one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a front view of a men's suit according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 5 is a front view of a women's suit according to another embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 6 is a front view of a women's suit according to still another embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

In order to prevent the pilling, the polyester-blended woven and knitted fabric is generally made to have a high burn-up and high yarn density for the purpose of sealing the movement of fibers in the component yarn. However, these means also have the property of being easy to be wrinkled, hard in texture, and poor in dignity.

The present invention is completed from the idea that the following characteristics are required to make a certain woven or knitted fabric the above-mentioned ideal type suit. In order to make it a protective suit, flame resistance is further required.

(1) The pilling property should be good even with the same number of twists and yarn density as that of a pure woolen / knitted fabric.

(2) Having a texture equivalent to a pure woolen / knitted fabric.

(3) Having a high strength higher than mixed spinning rate of mixed grade polyester.

(4) Having a good wash resistance equal to or greater than that of a polyester blend woven or knitted fabric.

(5) Having a pleating property as good as or more than polyester blended textiles and knits.

(6) being relatively inexpensive.

The present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing animal hair fiber as a main component. In the above, the main component means 50% by weight or more. Preferably, 55 to 95% by weight of animal hair fiber, 5 to 45% by weight of polyester fiber, more preferably 60 to 90% by weight of animal hair fiber, and 10 to 40% by weight of polyester fiber. The animal hair fiber is typically wool, but may also include lamb wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, camel and angora.

The woven or knitted fabric is preferably flame-retardant. The fire resistance is preferably Zirpro processed by IWS (International Woolen Bureau). Zapro processing binds an anionic complex compound of titanium or zirconium to animal hair fiber (preferably wool) at 60 to 70 ° C. in acidity (pH 3 or less), further adding to the flame retardance inherent to animal hair fiber. It is the processing to raise. A schematic view of the bond between animal hair fiber and metal complex salt is as shown in FIG. In FIG. 3, M is titanium or zirconium, and X is chloride or fluoride. The limiting oxygen index (LOI) is 25-2 for wool and 27-33 for zapro-processed wool, which exhibit flame retardancy. Since it is not resin processing, it does not impair the excellent texture of animal hair fiber. In the present invention, it is preferable to use an anionic complex compound of zirconium. It is because there is no discoloration. Titanium compounds are inexpensive but may be accompanied by yellowish discoloration.

At least one single yarn of the twin yarn of the present invention is exposed to a flame when fireproofing animal hair fiber, since the core is a polyester check-cut spun yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fiber. At the same time, the sheath of the surface layer acts as a barrier and can stop the spread of fire. The flame retardancy is preferably a carbonization length of 20 cm or less, and more preferably 10 to 20 cm, in the JIS L 1091 A-4 alternative method (Annex 8) vertical combustion test. This test method is useful when assuming that it is exposed to a flame at the time of emergency, and the shorter the carbonization length, the higher the flame retardancy.

The woven fabric of the present invention includes any tissue such as plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Knitting includes arbitrary tissues such as vertical knitting, horizontal knitting, circular knitting, double-sided knitting and the like.

The yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a double yarn. A twin yarn is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns. The reason for using twin yarn is not so much in the case of knitting, but in particular, it gives strength to withstand the tension at the time of weaving and cancels out the thickness and twist unevenness of single yarn and homogenizes it, and prepares the wind cleanly It is for.

The at least one single yarn of the double yarn is a polyester draft cut yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath yarn having animal hair fibers. The draft-cut spun yarn is one in which a tow (a bundle of long fibers) is cut while being drafted by mechanical means (tearing = tick-cut) and twisted to be a spun yarn. The draft-twisting may be a direct spinning method performed by one spinning machine, or may be once twisted as a sliver to be a spun yarn (par lock method or converter method) in two or more steps. Preferably it is a direct spinning method. By using a check-cut yarn, it is possible to maintain high strength of the polyester spun yarn while making it ultrafine, and to obtain a multilayer structured spun yarn excellent in the integrity with the coated fiber. The polyester is preferably polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

The preferable denier of the free-cutting yarn is in the range of 43 to 167 deci tex (displayed as 60 to 230 count single yarn = 1/60 to 1/230 in metric count), and more preferably 53 to 100 deci tex (metric In the range of 100 to 190 single yarn = 1/100 to 1/190). If the fineness is in the above range, the strength is also high, which is preferable from the viewpoint of texture and the like. The number of twists is preferably, for example, 400 to 650 times / m, and more preferably 450 to 600 times / m. If the number of twists is in the above-mentioned range, the integrity with the coated fiber is further improved. The preferred average fiber length is 70 to 120 mm. Within this range, the strength can be maintained higher.

In the present invention, the core-sheath structure yarn in which the sheath contains animal hair fiber is a garment in which animal hair fiber represented by wool is disposed on the surface in the state of being woven and knitted, and the characteristics of this fiber are fully utilized. It is for making it a material for. That is, animal hair fiber has a good texture and an excellent appearance. On the other hand, polyester cut-off spun yarn is used for the core because polyester fibers have high strength and heat setting properties, so sharp pleats can be obtained and it is difficult to remove them. This is to prevent appearance on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, that is, the yarn of the component, since a significant appearance defect due to pilling due to high strength of the fiber occurs. If the polyester fiber is present only in the core and is coated with animal hair fiber around it, the pilling problem can be greatly improved.

In the present invention, it is preferable that one single yarn of the double yarn is the core-sheath structure yarn, and the other is an animal wool fiber spun yarn. If one of the double yarns is a core-sheath yarn, sufficient improvement in strength can be realized. Both single yarns of the double yarn may be core-sheath yarns. In this case, the strength is further increased.

It is preferable that the twisting direction of the draft-cut spun yarn (primary twist) and the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) be the same, and the twisting direction of the double yarn (secondary twist) be the reverse direction to the primary twist. In this way, the primary twist is returned to be in a sweet-twisted state, and the single fibers are more likely to move, so it is easier to shrink, it is easier to make fine fluffs, and the surface becomes softer and warmer There is a synergetic effect that it is easy to take out a certain texture. Here, the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) means the polyester draft-cut spun yarn A as the core in the core-sheath structure spun yarn C (core-sheath structure yarn) shown in the enlarged right side of FIG. It is a winding direction of animal hair fiber bundle B (animal hair fiber yarn) wound around the periphery. In addition, in the right side enlarged view of FIG. 1, in order to show the twist direction of the polyester draft-cut spun yarn A, a spiral line is schematically drawn on the outer peripheral surface thereof. Further, as described above, by making the twisting direction the same and making the number of twists appropriate, the integrity of the core and the sheath is improved.

The proportions of the animal hair of the twin yarn and the polyester are preferably 55 to 95% by weight of animal hair and 5 to 45% by weight of polyester. More preferably, it is 60 to 90% by weight of animal hair and 10 to 40% by weight of polyester. If it is in the above-mentioned range, the softness peculiar to animal hair fiber and the warm texture can be easily obtained, and the washing resistance and the pleating goodness of the polyester fiber and the strength improving effect can be easily obtained. It is preferable that the twin yarns contain an antistatic fiber. The antistatic fiber is preferably blended with animal hair fiber to form a sheath. Examples of antistatic fibers include metal fibers, carbon fibers, and fibers into which metal particles and carbon particles are kneaded. The antistatic fiber is preferably added in the range of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, based on the core-sheath structure spun yarn.

There are the following methods for dyeing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

(1) Dye both polyester check cut yarn and animal hair fiber in the form of yarn. (Yarn dyeing)

(2) In the state of the fabric, dye both the polyester check cut yarn and the animal hair fiber. (Anti-dyeing)

(3) The polyester check-cut spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fiber is dyed in a yarn state. (Yarn dyeing)

(4) The dyed polyester cut yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fiber is dyed in a cloth state. (Anti-dyeing)

(5) The dyed polyester cut yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fiber is dyed in the sliver state. In this case, it is called top dyeing, and there is an advantage that the hue can be stabilized in color matching, such as frost formation.

In the case of the anti-dyeing in (2) or (4) above, it is preferable to heat-set at a temperature above the crystallization point of the polyester fiber before dyeing, after forming a woven / knitted fabric using a core-sheath structure yarn. In this way, in the subsequent steps including dyeing, there is no dimensional change due to heat, and color matching becomes easy. A dimensional change leads to a hue change. For example, when contraction occurs, a phenomenon occurs in which the color becomes darker than that of a color sample prepared in advance. When the polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate, the heat setting temperature is preferably 150 to 190.degree. More preferably, the temperature is 160 to 180 ° C.

The preferable size of the core-sheath structure yarn of the present invention is in the range of 125 to 417 decitex (displayed as 24 to 80 count single yarn = 1/24 to 1/80 in metric count) for single yarn, and the preferred size of twin yarn Is in the range of 250 to 833 deci tex (displayed as 12 to 40 second yarn at metric count = 2/24 to 2/80). Also, a preferable basis weight of the woven or knitted fabric is 150 to 380 g / m ² . In addition, conventional methods are adopted for weaving, knitting and rearranging processes such as washing, boiling, and drying carpets, dyeing, and heat setting.

The manufacturing method of the core-sheath structure yarn used by this invention is demonstrated using drawing. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing the main part of a ring spinning machine according to an embodiment of the present invention. A cylindrical body 3 is provided for each weight on the front bottom main shaft 1 which is positively driven to rotate. The front bottom main shaft 1 is connected to the inside of the front bottom sub shaft roller 15 by a core rod. The drive belt 16 is hooked on the front bottom sub shaft 15 that is positively driven to rotate, and the rotation speed of the front bottom main shaft 1 can be set to be independent of the rotation speed. The respective rotational speeds are variable, and the overfeed rate described later can be set arbitrarily. A cylindrical body 2 is provided on the front bottom subshaft 15 for each weight. The two cylinders 2, 3 are separated and can be at separate rotational speeds. The front top sub roller 4 is placed on the cylindrical body 2, and the front top main roller 5 is placed on the cylindrical body 3. The front top sub-roller 4 and the front top main roller 5 are coated with rubber cots, and are rotatably fitted on the common arbor 6 under load independently and independently. The animal hair fiber bundle B drawn out from the roving bobbin is supplied from the guide bar to the back roller 8 through the trumpet feeder 7.

Although not shown, the trumpet feeder 7 can be rocked in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1, and the rocking width can be adjusted. The animal hair fiber bundle B delivered from the back roller 8 and passed through the draft apron 9 is gripped and spun by the cylindrical body 3 and the cylindrical front top main roller 5. The polyester draft-cut spun yarn A is supplied to the cylindrical body 2 and the cylindrical front top sub-roller 4 via the yarn guide 14 and is spun.

The front bottom main shaft 1 and the front so that the spinning speed of the animal hair fiber bundle B spun from the cylindrical body 3 is faster than the spinning speed of the polyester draft-cut spun yarn A spun from the cylindrical body 2 The rotational speed of the bottom subshaft 15 is determined. By so doing, when the two polyester draft cut spun yarns A and the animal hair fiber bundle B are twisted together via the snell wire 10, the animal coat fiber bundles B around the polyester draft cut spun yarn A A core-sheath structure spun yarn C is formed, which is covered with the polyester draft cut spun yarn A as a core and the animal hair fiber bundle B as a sheath. It becomes like the right side enlarged view of FIG.

The overfeed ratio of the animal hair fiber bundle B to the polyester check-cut spun yarn A is preferably 5 to 20%, and more preferably 8 to 15%. When the overfeed rate is in the above-mentioned range, the animal hair fiber bundle B can wrap the polyester check-cut spun yarn A in a "ply shape" and can coat the core fiber with a coverage of approximately 100%.

The formed core-sheath structure spun yarn C is wound around the weight on the yarn tube 13 via the anti-node ring 11 and the traveler 12. Core / sheath structure spun yarn manufactured because the delivery speed of both is constant, even if the gripping positions of the cylindrical check bodies 2 and 3 of the polyester check-cut spun yarn A and the animal hair fiber bundle B vary somewhat among weights. There is no risk that the properties of C will vary from one weight to another. In addition, when the trumpet feeder 7 is rocked in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1 within the possible range, the friction area between the rubber cot coating of the front top main roller 5 and the animal hair fiber bundle B is dispersed, and the rubber cot coating early Wear can be prevented. Although not shown, it is desirable that the yarn guide 14 be pivoted in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1 to reduce the wear of the rubber cot coating of the cylindrical front top sub roller 4.

The core-sheath structure spun yarn obtained as described above is formed into a double yarn, a woven or knitted fabric, and dyed at the stage of top, yarn or anti-dyeing, and subjected to the arrangement process and provided to the apparel industry. In this case, clothing such as a suit, a jacket, an over, a vest, and a skirt is used for cutting and sewing, and it is particularly preferable to use a suit. The clothes using the woven and knitted fabric according to the present invention are suitable because they have properties such as lightweight, easy to operate, strong, long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, easy care, and relatively inexpensive.

FIG. 4 is a front view of a men's suit according to an embodiment of the present invention. The men's suit 31 is a set of suits consisting of an outerwear 32 and trousers 33, and the upper and lower color patterns are identical. FIG. 5 is a front view of a women's suit according to another embodiment of the present invention. The women's suit 34 is a set of suits consisting of an outer jacket 35 and a skirt 36, and the upper and lower color patterns are identical. FIG. 6 is a front view of a women's suit according to still another embodiment of the present invention. The women's suit 37 is a set of suits composed of an outer jacket 38 and pants 39 and has the same upper and lower color patterns. In the above, it is a common designation in the apparel industry that the pants are for men and the skirts and pants are for women.

The suit can also be used separately from the double yarn of the woven or knitted fabric that constitutes the jacket and the double yarn of the woven or knitted fabric that constitutes the pants / pants and / or the skirt. As an example, a double yarn of a woven or knitted fabric constituting an outer jacket, wherein one single yarn is a cored sheath cut yarn with a core of core-sheath structure yarn containing a animal hair fiber and the other a spun yarn containing animal hair fiber I assume. Both yarns of the woven or knitted fabric constituting at least one selected from pants, pants and a skirt are preferably both core-sheath structured yarns. In this way, the jacket can be worn more frequently than the outer coat, it is easy to tear or fray, wrinkles are easy to occur, pleats are easy to disappear, dirt can be reduced for pants, pants and skirts that are easily soiled, and home washing is also possible. . In addition, even if any double thread is used, the upper and lower color patterns are the same, so that no sense of discomfort as a suit occurs.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically using examples. The measuring method in the Example of this invention and a comparative example was as follows.

(1) Textile strength: Measured according to JIS L 1096A method.

(2) Anti-pill property: Measured according to JIS L 1076A method.

(3) Texture: Measured according to KOTO Tech KES texture measurement method.

(4) Flame retardancy (combustibility): Measured according to JIS L 1094 A-4 alternative method (Annex 8).

(5) Other physical properties: Measured according to JIS or industry standard.

(Examples 1 and 2)

(1) Production of core-sheath structure yarn A fine denier polyester (PET) tow manufactured by Trevra (Germany) is cut off and cut and 175 m-count single yarn (represented as 1/175, 57.1 deci tex), number of twists A spun yarn of 530 times / m (Z direction) was obtained. The single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers of this spun yarn was 1.0 decitex, the fiber length was distributed in the range of 11 to 190 mm, and the average fiber length was 95 mm. The draft-cut spun yarn A was supplied to the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 so as to be 34.3% by weight of the core component. On the other hand, 65.2% by weight of wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) as animal hair fiber in the sheath and Kuraray "Kracarbo" (single fiber fineness 3.3 deci tex, square cut fiber as antistatic fiber An animal hair fiber bundle B blended with 0.5% by weight of 70 mm long is prepared and supplied to the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 with an overfeed rate of 11% so as to be 65.7% by weight of sheath component, core sheath A structured spun yarn C was obtained. The obtained yarn was a 60 meter single yarn (represented as 1/60, 167 deci tex), and the number of twists was 750 times / m (Z direction). The raw material ratio of the obtained core-sheath structured yarn was 65.2% by weight of wool, 34.3% by weight of polyester fiber, and 0.5% by weight of antistatic fiber.

(2) Production of animal hair spun yarn 100% by weight of wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) as animal hair fiber was converted to animal hair spun yarn by a ring spinning machine. The obtained yarn was a 60 meter single yarn (represented as 1/60, 167 deci tex), and the number of twists was 650 times / m (Z direction).

(3) Production of twine yarn

(3-1) One-Eye Structure The core-sheath structure yarn obtained as described above and the animal hair spun yarn were twisted with 640 twists / m (S direction) with an uptwister to form a double yarn. A schematic cross-sectional view of this twine is shown in FIG. 2 (A). The double yarn 20 is composed of the core-sheath yarn 23 and the animal hair spun yarn 24. The core-sheath yarn 23 is composed of the polyester check-cut spun yarn 21 arranged in the core and the wool fiber component arranged in the sheath. The black core (the hatched portion) in FIG. 2 (A) is regarded as an eyeball and is called one-eye structure. The woven fabric obtained by the double yarn of one eye structure is referred to as Example 1.

(3-2) Two-Eyed Structure FIG. 2 (B) is a cross-sectional view of the twin yarns of core-sheath yarns obtained as described above, in which the number of twists is 640 times / m (S direction) with an uptwister. Twisted to make a twin thread. The double yarn 25 is composed of two single sheath yarns 23 having a core-sheath structure. The core-sheath yarn 23 has a polyester check-cut spun yarn 21 disposed in the core and a wool fiber component disposed in the sheath. The black core (the hatched part) in FIG. 2 (B) is regarded as an eyeball and is called a two-eye structure. The woven fabric obtained by the double yarn having a double-eye structure is referred to as Example 2.

(4) Dyeing The polyester check-cut spun yarn is colored in black at the yarn stage, and the animal hair fiber is slivered in the gray system top color type, and it is not tired even if worn for many years with high quality and color hue There was a stable grade frost.

(5) Fabric Production The twin yarns shown in FIG. 2 (A)-(B) were used for the warp and weft, respectively, to obtain a fabric with a fabric weight and yarn density shown in Table 1 as a 2/2 twill structure.

(6) Post-processing In order to impart flame retardancy to the above-mentioned woven fabric during the sorting and refining process of the regular method, zapro processing was carried out using an anti-staining and dyeing machine. In the case of Zaplo processing, the fabric was immersed in an aqueous solution containing 11.1% owf of zirconic hydrofluoric acid adjusted to a pH of 3 or less and reacted at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes. The metal complex compounded to the wool by this processing, and the flame retardancy was imparted.

Physical properties of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

(Comparative example 1)
Example 1 is the same as Example 1 except that two normal pure double yarns, that is, only the animal hair spun yarn 24 shown in FIG. 2A are used without using the core-sheath yarn. Textile production and post processing were carried out. Physical properties of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

(Comparative example 2)
In Example 2, 65% by weight of wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) and polyester fiber (single fiber fineness 3.3 deci tex, bias cut fiber length 76/102 mm) without using core-sheath structure yarn Of 24.5% by weight and two mixed spun yarns made by mixing Kuraray “Kracarbo” (single fiber fineness 3.3 deci tex, square cut fiber length 70 mm) as antistatic fiber with 0.5% by weight Fabric production and post-processing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. Physical properties of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

Next, the texture was measured with a KATO Tech KES texture measurement tester. The results are summarized in Table 2.

The main physical properties in Tables 1 and 2 are as follows. Evaluation was as follows.

(1) High Strength Tensile strength: A measured by JIS L 1096-8.14.1 (Method A) was [A] for 550 N or more, and “B” for less than 550 N.

(2) pilling pilling: The results of 30 h measured by JIS L 1076-8.1.1 (method A) are grade “A” for grades 4 to 5 or more, “B” for grades 3 to 4 and “C” for grades less than 3 did.

(3) Texture The THV measured by the KES texture measurement tester was “A” for 2.9 or more, and “B” for less than 2.9.

(4) Pleating property The yarn opening angle measured by JIS L 1060-9.1.2 (A-2 method) is “A” for less than 60 °, “B” for 60 ° to less than 80 °, and “C” for 80 ° or more. And

(5) Washing resistance According to JIS L0217 (Method A-2), the dimensional change of [%] after 15 washings is less than -3.0% "A", -3.0 or more -6.0% Less than "B", -6.0% or more was "C".

(6) Flame retardancy Flammability test: The result of carbonization length [cm] of vertical contact flame 12 seconds according to JIS L1091 (A-4 Alternative Annex 8) version 1992 is less than 5 cm is "A", 5 cm or more and 20 cm Less than "B", 20 cm or more was "C".

The above results are summarized in Table 3.

As is clear from the results of Table 3, in each of Examples 1 and 2, the evaluation of each property was B or more, and the performance balance as a suit material was excellent. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 pure hair had a C rating of pleatability and wash resistance, and although it was possible to take a fold immediately, it was difficult to iron, and home washing was difficult. In addition, Comparative Example 2 has a C rating of pilling and flame retardancy, and a lonely pill generated shortly after the start of wearing causes remarkable appearance defects and a deterioration in quality, and is not suitable as a general suit material, and is flame retardant It has been confirmed that sex is not suitable as a protective suit.

The fabric obtained in Examples 1 and 2 was tailored to the suit shown in FIG. The suit is a one-eye double-thread fabric of Example 1 with a jacket and pants, and a one-eye double-thread fabric of Example 1 with a double-layer double-strand fabric of Example 2. The As a result, it has been confirmed that both suits have appropriate dignity, are lightweight, easy to operate, strong and long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, easy-care and relatively inexpensive. In particular, the suit made of the one-eye double-thread fabric of Example 1 and the two-eyed double-wire fabric of Example 2 as a trouser has the same upper and lower color patterns, so the sense of discomfort as a suit is completely zero. Absent. Furthermore, in particular, a suit made of a one-eye double-thread fabric of Example 1 and a two-eyed double-layer fabric of Example 2 is more easily torn or frayed compared to the jacket. With regard to trousers that are easy to enter, pleats are easy to disappear, and soiling is easy, these can be reduced, and home washing is also possible. As a result, it has been confirmed that it is optimal as a protective suit.

(Example 3)
The same procedure as in Examples 1 and 2 was repeated except that the flame resistance was not changed by the processing. The physical properties of the obtained woven fabric were the same as in Tables 1 to 3 except for the evaluation C of flame retardancy. The obtained woven fabric was made into a suit shown in FIG. In particular, the suit of the one-eye double-thread fabric of Example 1 and the two-wire double-thread fabric of Example 2 is a strong, long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, pleat-resistant, household Washing was also possible. As a result, it has been confirmed that it is suitable for uniforms such as police officers and postal / transportation staff, school uniforms and corporate uniforms, and suits for ordinary people.

Garments obtained by the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be used not only for suits for the protection of the Imperial Palace Police, security guards for key persons (security polices) and private suits, but also for suits for fire brigades, self-defenses, passenger crews and passenger plane pilots. It is suitable. In addition, it is suitable for uniforms such as police officers and postal service and transportation staff, school uniforms and corporate uniforms, and suits of general persons, because of its good resistance to washing and pleating.

1. Front bottom main shaft 2, 3. Column 4. Front top sub roller 5. Front top main roller 6. Arbor 7. Trumpet feeder 8. Back roller 9. Draft apron 10. Snell wire 11. Anti-node ring12. Traveler 13. Thread tube 14. Yarn guide 15. Front bottom sub shaft roller 16. Drive belt 20. Twin yarn 21. Polyester check-cut spun yarn 22. Wool fiber component Core-sheath structure yarn 24. Animal hair yarn 31. Men's suit 32.35.38. Outerwear 33. Pants 34.37. Women's suit 36. Skirt 39. Pants A. Polyester check-cut spun yarn B. Animal hair fiber bundle C. Core-sheath yarn

Claims (10)

It is a woven or knitted fabric for clothes mainly composed of animal hair fiber,
The yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric for clothes is a double yarn,
A woven or knitted fabric for clothes, wherein at least one single yarn of the double yarn is a polyester draft broken spun yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath yarn containing animal hair fibers. The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric for clothes has a flame retardancy of a carbonization length of 20 cm or less. The garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said single yarn is a spun yarn comprising one single yarn of said core-sheath structure yarn and the other single yarn is an animal hair fiber, or said single yarn is both said core-sheath structure yarn. Woven or knitted fabric. The twisting direction of the draft-cut spun yarn (primary twist) and the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) are the same, and the twisting direction of the double yarn (secondary twist) is the twisting direction of the primary twist The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is reverse. 5. The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the proportions of animal hair and polyester in the double yarn are 55 to 95% by weight of animal hair fiber and 5 to 45% by weight polyester fiber. The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the double yarn further comprises an antistatic fiber. The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the animal hair fiber is wool. A garment using the woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 7,
A garment characterized in that the garment is a suit. The double yarn of the fabric constituting the suit outer jacket is a core-sheath structure yarn in which one single yarn is a polyester draft cut spun yarn, the sheath is an animal hair fiber, and the other single yarn is an animal hair. It is a spun yarn consisting of fibers,
The garment according to claim 8, wherein the double yarn of the fabric constituting at least one selected from the pants, the pants and the skirt of the suit is the core-sheath yarn. A yarn in which two single yarns are twisted together,
Among the two single yarns, at least one of the single yarns is a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a draft-cut spun yarn and the sheath is an animal hair fiber,
The strength of the core portion is higher than the strength of the sheath portion.

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