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WO2019193109A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un polysaccharide, des tensioactifs et des fragments d'une ou de plusieurs plantes - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un polysaccharide, des tensioactifs et des fragments d'une ou de plusieurs plantes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019193109A1
WO2019193109A1 PCT/EP2019/058541 EP2019058541W WO2019193109A1 WO 2019193109 A1 WO2019193109 A1 WO 2019193109A1 EP 2019058541 W EP2019058541 W EP 2019058541W WO 2019193109 A1 WO2019193109 A1 WO 2019193109A1
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weight
preferentially
fragments
alkyl
composition
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Anne-Sophie BRAC DE LA PERRIERE
Béatrice Thomas
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a polysaccharide, surfactants and fragments of one or more plants
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight of at least one polysaccharide, at least one anionic surfactant, which is preferably non-sulfated, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and one or more fragments of one or more plants, preferably in suspension in the medium of the composition.
  • the invention also relates to the uses of the composition according to the invention and to a process for treating keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.
  • detergent compositions such as shampoos
  • anionic surfactants of sulfate type for cleansing and/or washing keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • anionic surfactants of sulfate type may be responsible for irritations and drying out of the skin.
  • shampoos in particular for hair that is sensitized or embrittled to various degrees following the action of atmospheric agents or of repeated mechanical or chemical treatments, containing conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and/or silicones for obtaining acceptable cosmetic performance levels.
  • compositions have several drawbacks: the presence of silicone, the environmental profile (biodegradability, water footprint) of which is not always optimal, the generally opaque (sparingly aesthetic) appearance of the shampoo associated with the presence of silicone, the start of foaming and the foam quality that are judged as being insufficient, and the rapid regreasing of the hair accompanied by lankness.
  • compositions intended for the treatment of keratin fibres that is advantageously silicone-free and sulfate anionic surfactant- free, having improved working qualities and good cosmetic properties, and that is capable of washing keratin fibres without making them lank so as to give good conditioning properties to keratin fibres, in particular to sensitized, embrittled or damaged keratin fibres, and also more particularly to fine hair, arose from these observations.
  • compositions preferably not comprising anionic surfactants of sulfate type or silicone, which make it possible to obtain excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of disentangling, suppleness, manageability, softness to the touch and straightening of treated hair, and which have good usage properties, such as a good intrinsic washing power.
  • anionic surfactants b which are preferably non-sulfated
  • composition according to the invention has good working qualities, especially good foam quality.
  • hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and has good cosmetic properties. Hair thus treated is particularly light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, shiny, supple, easy to disentangle, more manageable, and has good volume and also repaired ends.
  • composition according to the invention gives the hair strength.
  • plant fragments can be seen in the form of a stable and homogeneous suspension in the composition according to the invention.
  • the visually stable and homogeneous suspension of these fragments substantially improves the aesthetic appearance and the originality of the composition according to the invention.
  • the expression“stable and homogeneous suspension of these fragments” is intended to mean that said fragments are homogeneously dispersed in the composition, that is to say homogeneously distributed within the composition, and that this homogeneous dispersion persists over time, that is to say that the fragments do not float at the surface, do not run, do not separate out and/or do not form agglomerates in the composition over time, in particular after at least one week of storage.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of the above composition for the cosmetic treatment of, preferably for washing, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the treatment of, preferably for washing, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention.
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.
  • anionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed "anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • a sulfated anionic surfactant is intended to mean an anionic surfactant which comprises at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ), and which can optionally also comprise one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO ), sulfonate functions (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ) and/or phosphate functions.
  • alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and also the salts of these compounds are sulfated an ionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group maybe denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds, mentioned by way of example may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and may comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • non-sulfated anionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant which does not come under the definition of“sulfated anionic surfactant” as defined above.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), but do not comprise a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), or a sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ); and
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ) and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO ) and/or phosphate functions, but do not comprise a sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 );
  • the phosphate anionic surfactants comprise at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO 3 H 2 or -OPO 3 ), but do not comprise a carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), or a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), or a sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ).
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a sulfated anionic surfactant;
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a sulfated anionic surfactant;
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a non- sulfated sulfonate anionic surfactant;
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a sulfated anionic surfactant.
  • the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.
  • silicone-free is intended to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0% by weight).
  • sicone is intended to mean any organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and essentially constituted of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more polysaccharides a).
  • the polysaccharide(s) a) is(are) chosen from anionic polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from anionic polysaccharides.
  • the polysaccharides used in the context of the invention are suspensive agents (or suspending agents), that is to say that they are capable of keeping the plant fragments in the composition according to the invention in a stable suspension over time.
  • the polysaccharides according to the invention are preferably heteropolysaccharides, that is to say that they comprise the repetition of at least two different saccharide monomers.
  • the polysaccharides according to the invention comprise at least monomers chosen from galactose, glucose, mannose, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and rhamnose.
  • the polysaccharides according to the invention are microbial polysaccharides, that is to say produced by bacteria or fungi.
  • - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, of mannose, of pyruvic acid and of glucuronic acid);
  • These polymers may be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.
  • the polysaccharide(s) a) according to the invention is(are) chosen from carrageenans and furcellerans, xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferentially from xanthan gum, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof; and even better still from gellan gum.
  • the total content of polysaccharide(s) a) is between 0.01% and 20% by weight, more preferentially between 0.05% and 10% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.07% and 5% by weight, even better still between 0.1% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants b).
  • the composition according to the invention is sulfated anionic surfactant-free.
  • sulfated anionic surfactant-free is intended to mean that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any sulfated anionic surfactant, or that the sulfated anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the anionic surfactants according to the invention are chosen from carboxylic anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants, phosphate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfonate anionic surfactants, carboxylic anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
  • the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 28, even more preferentially from 10 to 24, even better still from 12 to 22, carbon atoms.
  • the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • acylglutamates in particular of C 6 -C 24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoylglutamate or cocoyl glutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C 6 -C 24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as cocoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
  • Ci 2 -C 28 or even Ci 4 -C 24 such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium (iso)stearoyl lactylate;
  • acylglycinates such as cocoyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • alkyl ether carboxylic or alkylamido ether carboxylic acids are chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
  • Ri represents a linear or branched C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cg- Cgjalkylphenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH2-CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched Cg-C 2 i alkyl or alkenyl radical;
  • Ri is a C 8 -C 2 o and preferably Cg-Cig alkyl radical
  • - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom, an ammonium group, a sodium atom, a potassium atom, a lithium atom, a magnesium atom, a calcium atom or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
  • Ci 2 -Ci 4 alkyl cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical
  • - A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • Ri denotes a Ci 2 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen atom or a sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; in particular those comprising from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the phosphate anionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • Ce -C 24 in particular C 12 -C 20 , alkyl phosphates
  • Ce -C 24 in particular C 12 -C 20 , alkyl ether phosphates
  • the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
  • C 6 -C 24 especially C 12 -C 20 , alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
  • acylglutamates in particular of C 6 -C 24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoylglutamate or cocoyl glutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C 6 -C 24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as cocoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, palmitoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
  • Ci 2 -C 28 or even Ci 4 -C 24 such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium (iso)stearoyl lactylate;
  • acylglycinates such as cocoyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) b) is(are) chosen from acylsarcosinates, in particular C 6 -C 24 acylsarcosinates; C 6 -C 24 acylisethionates, in particular (Ci 2 -Ci 8 ) acylisethionates; (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids, in particular polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups; (C6-C3o)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C 6 - C 24 )alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; (C6-C3o)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular (C 6 -C 24 )alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; alpha-olefin sulfonates; salts thereof; mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) b) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 25% by weight, even more preferentially between 1% and 20% by weight, even better still between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of non-sulfated anionic surfactant(s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 25% by weight, even more preferentially between 1% and 20% by weight, even better still between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants c).
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (R b )(R c )-CH 2 COO ⁇ , M + , X- (3) in which: - R a represents a Cio to C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • R b represents a b-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X are absent;
  • - B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX’
  • - X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ ⁇ -CH 2 CH 2 COOH or CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z';
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a represents a Cio to C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(0H)S03H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z";
  • R d and R e represent, independently of one another, a Ci to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
  • n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is(are) chosen from (Cg-C 2 o)alkylbetaines, (Cg-C 2 o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cg-C 2 o)alkylamido(C3- Cg)alkylbetaines and (Cg-C 2 o)alkylamido(C 6 -Cg)alkylsulfobetaines, the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) as defined previously; and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cg-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cg-C 2 o)alkylamido(C3- Cg)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, or the compounds of formula (3) such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (Cg-C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cg-C 2 o)alkylamido(C3- Cg)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01% and 30% by weight, more preferentially between 0.1% and 25% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.5% and 20% by weight, even better still between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-ionic surfactants are non-ionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
  • non-ionic surfactants that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from:
  • - alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_ 2 o)alkylphenols these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cg to C 4 o alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains;
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;
  • polyoxyalkylenated preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;
  • amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci 4 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C IO -C I4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides ; - and mixtures thereof.
  • non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type represented especially by the following general formula:
  • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
  • - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • non-ionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • - oxyethylenated fatty alcohols including at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cg to C 4 o, especially Cg-C 2 o and better still Cio-Cig alkyl chain, and comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-l2); and
  • (C 6 -C 24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides such as (Cg-Cig alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the composition also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants, preferably chosen from (C 6 -C 24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, more preferentially from (Cg-Cig alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
  • the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) is between 0.1% and 25% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 20% by weight, even more preferentially between 1% and 15% by weight, even better still between 4% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of surfactant(s) present in the composition is between 0.1% and 45% by weight, more preferentially between 1% and 30% by weight, even more preferentially between 5% and 25% by weight, even better still between 10% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises fragments of one or more plants; these fragments are advantageously in suspension in the medium of the composition.
  • fragment is intended to mean a piece or a part of a plant, obtained for example by tearing or milling the plant, or by cutting up said plant.
  • fragments of one or more plants is intended to mean that the composition comprises either several fragments of one and the same species of plant, or that the composition comprises several fragments of several different species of plants.
  • a plant may be contained in its entirety in the composition according to the invention, if said plant is in the form of several fragments.
  • the term“visible to the naked eye” is intended to mean that said plant fragments in the composition according to the invention preferably have an average surface area of greater than or equal to 1 mm .
  • the fragments of one or more plants are chosen from flower petals, whole flowers, flower buds, leaves, algae, plant stems, roots, in their entirety or in pieces, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from flower petals, leaves, algae, in their entirety or in pieces, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fragments of one or more plants are chosen from fragments of marigold (INCI name: Calendula officinalis flower), fragments of lavender (INCI name: Lavandula angustifolia flower), fragments of Damask rose (INCI name: Rosa damascena flower), fragments of cornflower (INCI name: Centaurea cyanus flower), fragments of jasmine (INCI name: Jasminum officinale flower), fragments of Prosopis (INCI name: Prosopis juliflora leaves), fragments of white everlasting flower and/or pink everlasting flower (INCI name: Xerochrysum bracteatum flower extract), fragments of saffron crocus (INCI name: Crocus sativus flower extract), fragments of Globe amaranth (INCI name: Gomphrena globosa flower extract), fragments of chamomile (INCI name: Anthemis nobilis flower powder), fragments of s
  • the plant fragments according to the invention may be chosen from the leaves, flowers and petals of marigold, lavender, Damask rose, cornflower, jasmine, Prosopis, and white and/or pink everlasting flower; and in particular from marigold (INCI name: Calendula officinalis flower).
  • the fragments of one or more plants may undergo one or more chemical and/or physical treatments, such as UV irradiation, colouring or coating.
  • the total content of fragment(s) of one or more plants is between 0.001% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.005% and 3% by weight, even better still between 0.01% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one cationic polymer different from the polysaccharides a) described above.
  • cationic polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5xl0 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3xl0 6 approximately.
  • - R which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a metho sulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules
  • copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy
  • copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium metho sulfate such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
  • C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quatemized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked or non- crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (for example 20/80 by weight) in particular in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is in particular sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked or non-crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, in particular dispersed at approximately 50% by weight in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2, 3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • a 2, 3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium salt for example, a chloride.
  • Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar Cl 62 by the company Rhodia.
  • polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quatemization products of these polymers.
  • water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino
  • polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • these derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXXI) or (XXXII):
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, denote a C i -C 6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
  • - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R l6 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C 12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;
  • R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R l6 together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non nitrogen heteroatom;
  • - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • a l R 13 and R 15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Bi may also denote a group (CH 2 ) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2 ) P - with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
  • a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O- in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 CH 2 0) X -CH 2 CH 2 - and -[CH 2 CH(CH 3 )0] y -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number- average molar mass
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Rig, Rig, R 20 and R 2l which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Rig, R I9 , R 20 and R 2I do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - X denotes an anion, such as a halide
  • A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight- average molecular weight of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2),
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts; polymers constituted of repeating units corresponding to formula (XXXIV) above, in particular the compound Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA INCI
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer different from the polysaccharides a).
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer chosen from non-polysaccharide cationic polymers.
  • the total content of cationic polymer(s) is between 0.01% and 5% by weight, more preferentially between 0.05% and 3% by weight, even more preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more dyes, preferably of natural origin (referred to as natural dyes).
  • natural dyes preferably of natural origin
  • the natural dyes are chosen from caramel, hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orcein, and mixtures thereof.
  • Extracts or decoctions containing the natural dyes as defined above and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts may also be used.
  • the total content of natural dye(s) is between 0.0001% and 5% by weight, more preferentially between 0.0005% and 3% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.001% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises water, that is to say that the medium is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • the total water content of the composition according to the invention is between 5% and 98% by weight, more preferentially between 20% and 95% by weight, even more preferentially between 30% and 90% by weight, even better still between 40% and 85%, or even between 50% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
  • the organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • organic solvent use may particularly be made of those which are water-soluble, such as Ci-C 7 alcohols, and in particular Ci-C 7 aliphatic or aromatic mono alcohols, C3 -C7 polyols and C3 -C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the organic solvent(s) may be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C 2 -C 7 , more preferentially C 2 -C 6 , polyol, and even more preferentially glycerol.
  • the total content of C 2 -C 7 organic solvent(s) is between 0.05% and 25% by weight, more preferentially between 0.1% and 20% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferentially between 3.5 and 8.0, even more preferentially between 4.0 and 7.0, even better still between 4.5 and 6.5.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are customarily used by those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain additives customarily used in cosmetics, such as preservatives and fragrances.
  • additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of a shampoo.
  • composition without the said fragments of one or more plants is advantageously in the form of a transparent-to-translucent, more preferentially transparent, fluid composition.
  • composition without the said fragments of one or more plants is intended to mean a composition according to the invention which does not comprise the fragment(s) of one or more plants as described above; in other words, is intended to mean a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more polysaccharides a), one or more anionic surfactants b), and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants c).
  • the transparency of the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants can be characterized by the measurement of its transmittance.
  • the transmittance measurements were carried out at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, with a Cary Type 100 scan UV- visible spectrophotometer.
  • the transmittance of the compositions measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 80%, more preferentially greater than or equal to 82%, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 84%, and in particular ranging from 80% to 100%.
  • the suspensive properties of the composition according to the invention make it possible to keep the fragments of one or more plants in a stable and homogeneous suspension; these properties can be characterized either by the presence of a threshold stress of the composition without the said fragments, or by the viscosity of the composition without the said fragments, in particular in the case of an absence of a threshold stress value.
  • the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants has a threshold stress, that is to say a minimum stress to be applied in order for the composition to flow.
  • the threshold stress is determined at 25°C.
  • the threshold stress measurement can be obtained using an MCR302 rheometer, equipped with a compressed-air bearing, comprising a Peltier-effect system for regulating the temperature.
  • the rheometer is composed of a fixed component (plate) and a mobile component (cone). During the measurement, the mobile component descends to a predefined distance from the fixed component (gap), trapping the product to be analyzed between two predefined components.
  • the mobile component then rotates and the measurement begins. Once the measurement has ended, the mobile component can be raised again so as to release the product.
  • the geometry employed is of cone (very small angle: l°)-plate type, smooth coating.
  • the logarithmic curve of the stress (shear stress) in Pa, as a function of the strain (in %), is plotted.
  • the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants, has a threshold stress of greater than or equal to 0.05 Pa.s, more preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 5 Pa.s, even more preferentially from 0.1 to 2 Pa.s and even better still ranging from 0.2 to 1.5 Pa.s, at the temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the suspensive properties of the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants may be evaluated by virtue of its viscosity.
  • the viscosity of the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants can be evaluated by determining, at a temperature of 25 °C, the flow time of an amount of product (for example 90 g of product made to flow) through an orifice calibrated using a Ford cup viscometer, equipped with a Ford cup having an orifice diameter of 6 mm (cF6).
  • an amount of product for example 90 g of product made to flow
  • a Ford cup viscometer equipped with a Ford cup having an orifice diameter of 6 mm (cF6).
  • the flow time of the composition without the said fragments of one or more plants is greater than or equal to 30 seconds, in particular greater than or equal to 60 seconds; in particular between 30 and 300 seconds, or even between 60 and 180 seconds, even better still between 60 and 120 seconds.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of, preferably for washing, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • composition may be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-out or leave-in mode.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of, preferably for washing, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying, to said keratin fibres, a composition according to the invention as defined above.
  • a step of rinsing the keratin fibres is performed after the step(s) of applying a composition according to the invention to said fibres.
  • a step of drying the keratin fibres may be envisaged in the process according to the invention, especially using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood; the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from l50°C to 230°C, preferably from 200°C to 220°C.
  • a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood; the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from l50°C to 230°C, preferably from 200°C to 220°C.
  • the cosmetic composition Al according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (AM).
  • composition Al without the said fragments of flowers of white everlasting flower is clear, with a transmittance value of greater than 90%.
  • the transmittance measurements were carried out at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, with a Cary Type 100 scan UV-visible spectrophotometer.
  • the composition Al without the said fragments of flowers of white everlasting flower has a threshold stress of 0.81 Pa.s.
  • the threshold stress measurements were obtained at 25°C using an MCR302 rheometer, equipped with a compressed-air bearing, comprising a Peltier-effect system for regulating the temperature.
  • composition Al when the composition Al is applied to the hair, an excellent abundant foam is generated.
  • hair washed with the composition Al has a clean feel, and good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness and disentangling.
  • the cosmetic composition A2 according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (AM).
  • composition A2 without the said fragments of leaves of Prosopis is clear, with a transmittance value of greater than 90%.
  • the transmittance measurements were carried out at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, with a Cary Type 100 scan UV-visible spectrophotometer.
  • composition A2 without the said fragments of leaves of Prosopis has a threshold stress of 0.90 Pa.s.
  • the threshold stress measurements were obtained at 25°C using an MCR302 rheometer, equipped with a compressed-air bearing, comprising a Peltier-effect system for regulating the temperature.
  • composition A2 has a clean feel, and good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness and disentangling.
  • the nature and the content of the polysaccharides employed make it possible to obtain clear compositions in which the said fragments are in the form of a stable and homogeneous suspension.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins 0,01 % en poids d'au moins un polysaccharide, au moins un tensioactif anionique, de préférence non sulfaté, au moins un tensioactif amphotère ou zwitterionique et un ou plusieurs fragments d'une ou de plusieurs plantes, de préférence en suspension dans le milieu de la composition. L'invention concerne également les utilisations de la composition selon l'invention et un procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques comprenant au moins une étape d'application d'une composition selon l'invention sur lesdites fibres kératiniques.
PCT/EP2019/058541 2018-04-05 2019-04-04 Composition cosmétique comprenant un polysaccharide, des tensioactifs et des fragments d'une ou de plusieurs plantes Ceased WO2019193109A1 (fr)

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FR3096580A1 (fr) * 2019-05-27 2020-12-04 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant une phase aqueuse et des particules solides
FR3110848A1 (fr) * 2020-06-01 2021-12-03 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins trois types de polysaccharides, au moins un composé pâteux d’origine végétale et de l’eau
EP3598967B1 (fr) 2018-07-26 2023-03-15 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions d'hygiène personnelle, procédés et utilisations
US11975087B2 (en) 2020-03-30 2024-05-07 Colgate-Palmolive Company Sulfate-free personal care compositions and methods for preventing and treating pollution damage to skin

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EP3598967B1 (fr) 2018-07-26 2023-03-15 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions d'hygiène personnelle, procédés et utilisations
US12390407B2 (en) 2018-07-26 2025-08-19 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal cleansing compositions, methods and uses
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FR3110848A1 (fr) * 2020-06-01 2021-12-03 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins trois types de polysaccharides, au moins un composé pâteux d’origine végétale et de l’eau
WO2021245081A1 (fr) * 2020-06-01 2021-12-09 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins trois types de polysaccharides, au moins un composé pâteux d'origine végétale et de l'eau

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