WO2018023180A1

WO2018023180A1 - Hair cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2018023180A1
Application number: PCT/BR2016/050185
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mariane Landim SILVA; Carlos Granados CONTRERAS; Leandro Valeriano DE CARVALHO
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2016-08-05
Filing date: 2016-08-05
Publication date: 2018-02-08
Anticipated expiration: 2019-02-05
Also published as: BR112018077297A2

Abstract

Disclosed herein is a hair cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable solvent, an amphoteric surfactant, a fatty alcohol, a cellulose-based thickening polymer, a cationic surfactant, an acid, and optionally, silicones, waxes, alkylpolyglucosides, and quaternary ammonium compounds. Also disclosed herein are processes for treating hair with the hair cosmetic composition.

Description

HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to cosmetic compositions for use on keratinous substrates, such as keratin fibers. In particular, it relates to compositions and processes for treating hair. These processes can include washing, shampooing or cleansing hair as well as conditioning, styling or caring for the hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Hair can diminish in quality and/or quantity over time by age and/or due to factors such as natural greasiness, sweat, shedded skin cells from the scalp, pollution, and dirt. These factors can result in thinning hair and/or harm the visual appearance and the feel of the hair, and lead to lank body and decreased volume. The magnitude of the consequences of these factors, which are almost all inevitable, is variable, depending on, for example, the quality of the hair, length, style, and environmental factors.

Hair cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, conditioners, masques, and styling products are used to combat these drawbacks. Conventional cleansing compositions such as shampoos, for example, contain anionic surfactants such as sulfate-based anionic surfactants. These compositions can be applied onto a wet keratinous substrate (i.e., hair) and the lather they generate make it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soils typically present on the substrate such as hair and/or skin.

These cleansing compositions, while providing good cleansing power, may yield poor intrinsic cosmetic properties due to the fact that the nature of such cleansing treatments that contain significant amounts of anionic surfactants may lead to a less conditioned or rough feel to the hair of the hair. This is believed to be a result of the gradual removal of the natural or applied fats, lipids, or proteins contained in or at the surface of the hair.

Conditioners and masques are known to provide conditioning and smoothing benefits to hair. Generally, such compositions have only a little or no foaming property and therefore, are not employed as cleansing compositions. They are also not generally designed to impart styling or shaping benefits to hair which are traditionally provided by hair styling or grooming products.

It is thus an object of embodiments of the disclosure to provide cosmetic compositions that can clean keratinous substrates such as hair and have good foaming qualities, while providing good deposition of cleansing and conditioning ingredients on hair fibers as well as good cosmetic properties to hair, for example, conditioning or moisturization, softness, detangling, frizz reduction and styling benefits such as volume control.

According to embodiments of the disclosure, a hair treatment composition is provided that comprises amphoteric surfactants, fatty alcohols, cellulose-based thickening polymers, cationic surfactants, acids, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the hair treatment composition is a rinse-off cleansing composition.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the cleansing composition is substantially free of anionic surfactants.

It has now been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that such a composition can have a creamy, thick texture and consistency that is easily spreadable on hair while having effective cleansing properties. Such a composition was surprisingly and unexpectedly found to have good foaming and lathering effects on the hair even if the composition is free of or substantially free of anionic surfactants that are conventionally used in foaming cleansers or shampoos.

In an embodiment, hair treated with the compositions according to the present disclosure has improved conditioning, softness, frizz control or reduction.

In an embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure impart cleansing, conditioning, and manageability benefits to hair.

In an embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure impart styling and manageability benefits to hair such as volume control and frizz control.

Also disclosed is a process for treating the hair and/or the scalp using the compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure, the process including applying to the hair a composition according to the present invention, optionally rinsing off the composition, and optionally drying the hair.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of embodiments of the disclosure will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples that follow.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

(b) at least one solid fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer;

(d) at least one cationic surfactant; and

(e) at least one acid;

wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of from about 3.5% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a process of treating hair, the process comprising the steps of applying onto hair, the above-described composition.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, said process of treating hair can further include massaging or spreading the above-described composition on the hair fibers in the presence of water; and optionally, rinsing the hair with water. The hair can further be contacted with a conditioner, followed by rinsing the hair with water.

According to the present invention, the composition of the invention is preferably in the form of cream with a thick texture and consistency.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.

RSEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

Fig. 1 represents images showing the texture and consistency of the inventive formulations.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/- 10% of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9% - 1 1 % and "about 2%" means 1 .8% - 2.2%), such as within 9%, 8%, 7%, 6%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1 %, according to various embodiments.

Unless otherwise described or stated, the numbers expressing quantities of ingredients or components are in terms of percentage of active material (AM). "Active material" as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

"Keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, but is not limited to keratin fibers such as hair on the human head and hair comprising eyelashes. "Keratinous substrates" as used herein, may also refer to the skin such as lips, finger nails or toe nails, and the scalp.

As used herein, the terms "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, and "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" or "keratin fibers" such as hair on a human head with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner.

The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term 'treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

The term "rinse-off" is used herein to mean that a keratinous substrate such as hair is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of a composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or shaping said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing. Thus the rinsing process as described herein may involve either totally rinsing off or only partially rinsing off the composition from hair.

A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition such as a hair care or hair cosmetic composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto a keratinous substrate such as hair, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate.

A "leave-on" product refers to a composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is applied to a keratinous substrate such as hair and not further subjected to a rinsing and/or washing step until the next rinsing or treatment of the hair with a rinse-off product such as a shampoo.

The term "stable" as used herein means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or precipitation.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about

100^eC. "Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100^eC.

"Reducing agent" as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair.

The compositions and processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

In an embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant present in an amount of from about 3.75% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.5% to about 6.5% by weight;

(b) at least one solid fatty alcohol present in an amount of from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 7% to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 8% to about 20% by weight, and even more preferably from about 9% to about 18% by weight;

(c) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.4% to about 3.5% by weight;

(d) at least one cationic surfactant present in an amount of from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .8% to about 6% by weight, and even more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight; and

(e) at least one acid present in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, preferably from about 0.06% to about 1 .5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.07% to about 1 % by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.08% to about 0.8% by weight;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, cocoamphodiacetate and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

In an embodiment, the at least one solid fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and is preferably selected from stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy(CrC₆)alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), carboxy(C C₆)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluoses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(CrC₄)alkyl-(Ci-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

In an embodiment, the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

In an embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimoinium chloride.

In an embodiment, the at least one acid is selected from organic acids, for example, tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure can further comprise at least one wax compound selected from Ce to C₄o fatty esters, triglyceride esters, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one wax compound is selected from cetyl esters, tribehenin, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure can further comprise at least one silicone compound and present in an amount of from about 0.01 % to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one silicone compound is selected from amino functional silicones, dimethicone copolyols chosen from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C₈-C₂2) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG- 8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, and Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the least one silicone compound is an amino functional silicone selected from amodimethicones.

In an embodiment, the least one silicone compound is selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, and preferably from PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure can further comprise at least one aikylpolyglucoside present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one aikylpolyglucoside is selected from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one aikylpolyglucoside is selected from decyl glucoside.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure can further comprise at least one quaternary ammonium compound other than the cationic surfactant (d).

(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine. cocoamphodiacetate and its salts, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 3.75% to about 8% by weight;

(b) at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 7% to about 25% by weight;

(c) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluoses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C₄)alkyl-(Ci-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethyiceilulose, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight;

(d) at least one cationic surfactant selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 1 .5% to about 8% by weight;

(e) at least one acid selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from about 0.06% to about 1 .5% by weight; and

(f) optionally, at least one additional compound selected from waxes, silicones, alkylpolyglucosides, quaternary ammonium compounds other than (d), and mixtures thereof;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the process for treating hair comprises a step of applying onto hair, any one of the above-described compositions of the present disclosure.

In an embodiment, the process for treating hair further comprises the steps of: (i) massaging or spreading the composition on the hair in the presence of water in order to form a foam; and (ii) rinsing the hair with water.

In an embodiment, the process for treating hair further comprises treating the hair that has been treated with the composition of the present invention with a second composition chosen from a conditioner, a masque composition, or a styling/shaping composition.

In an embodiment, the process for treating hair is a process for cleansing or shampooing or conditioning or caring for the hair.

In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the above-described compositions of the present invention employed in any one of the above-described processes is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient to cleanse or provide other hair benefits to hair (e.g.. conditioning, moisturization, frizz-control, smoothing, manageability).

In an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a rinse- off composition and is used for cleansing or shampooing hair.

In an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a hair care composition, for example, a rinse-off composition chosen from a shampoo composition, a conditioner composition, a masque composition or a conditioning cleansing composition such as a 2-in-1 shampoo composition

In an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is a leave- on composition for hair.

In an embodiment, the composition of the present disclosure is substantially free of an anionic surfactant.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application of the compositions of the present invention when used in combination with the method or process of treating hair according to the present invention, resulted in effectively cleansed and conditioned hair.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that when the composition of the invention additionally contained one or more of waxes, quaternary ammonium compounds, silicone compounds or alkylpolyglucosides. the composition remained stable, and has increased foaming qualities while providing greater conditioning and manageability benefits to hair. The non-drip consistency of the compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired cosmetic effects.

AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

The amphoteric surfactants that are used in the invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (Cs-C₂o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C₂o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C₂o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C₂o)alkylamido(CrC₆)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:

(A1 ) R_a-CON(Z)CH₂_(CH₂)_m-N⁺(R_b)(R_c)(CH₂COO^") wherein:

R_a represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R_a- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

R_b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,

R_c represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) R_a-CON(Z)CH_2-(CH₂)_m-N(B)(B')

wherein:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX\ with X' representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂- COOZ\ -CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ, or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH₂)_Z-Y\ with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z,

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, Ra' represents a Cio-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_aCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a Ci7 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 7 group.

The compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are preferred.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X' represents an hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho dipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranoi® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranoi Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) R_a -NH-CH(Y")-(CH₂)n-C(0)-NH-(CH₂)n'-N(R_d)(R_e) wherein:

- R_a- represents a C₁0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a -C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H or the group -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO3-Z"_! with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- R_d and R_e represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from

1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkySamido(CrC6)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C₂o)alkylamphoacetates and (C₈-C₂o)a!kyiamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, cocoamphodiacetate and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is a betaine compound selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco- betaines, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

The at least one amphoteric surfactant in the compositions of the present invention may be present in an amount of from about 3.5% to about 9% by weight, such as from about 3.75% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, and more preferably from about 4.5% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In an embodiment, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%_; 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, and 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL

The solid fatty alcohol of the present invention may be crystalline, amorphous or pasty. The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are solid at room temperature (25 degrees centigrade) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm) and are insoluble in water (i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1 % by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25^eC and 1 atm) and are soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly) to at least 1 % by weight.

In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols preferably have a melting point of greater than or equal to 28^eC and have a viscosity, at a temperature of 40 ^QC and at a shear rate of 1 s"1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.

In an embodiment, the melting point of the fatty alcohols ranges from 30^QC to 250 ^QC, such as from 32 ^QC to 150^QC or such as from 35^QC to 150^QC.

The melting points may be measured by DSC or on a Kofler bench. The melting point may be measured by differential calorimetric analysis (DSC) with a temperature rise of 10⁹C per minute. The melting point is then the temperature corresponding to the top of the melting endotherm peak obtained during the measurement.

The viscosity measurements may be taken at a temperature of about 40

²C using an RS600 rheometer from Thermoelectron.

The solid fatty alcohols of the present invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono) alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, such as from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or such as from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols preferably have the structure of formula: R-OH in which R especially denotes a Ce-Ceo, for example, Cs-C6o, preferably C10-C50 or even C₁₂-C30 alkyl group, R possibly being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, R possibly being branched.

In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable examples of the solid fatty alcohol of the present invention include branched solid fatty alcohols chosen from 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1 -eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-1 -octadecanol and 2-hexadecyl-1 -eicosanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solid fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

The solid fatty alcohols of the invention are preferably non- oxyalkylenated and/or non-glycerolated. These fatty alcohols may be constituents of animal or plant waxes.

In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol).

In embodiment, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol. In embodiment, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty alcohol may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 7% to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 8% to about 20% by weight, and even more preferably from about 9% to about 18% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.

In an embodiment, the at least one solid fatty alcohol is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 1 1 %, 1 1 .5%, 12%, 12.5%, 13%, 13.5%, 14%, 14.5%, 15%, 15.5%, 16%, 16.5%, 17%, 17.5%, 18%, 18.5%, 19%, 19.5%, 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

CELLULOSE-BASED THICKENING POLYMER

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at 1 percent in a pure aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30 percent ethanol, and at pH=7, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps and preferably of at least 500 cps, at 25 degrees centigrade and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 . This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

Preferably, these polymers increase, through their presence, the viscosity of the compositions into which they are introduced by at least 50 cps and preferably at least 200 cps, at 25 degrees centigrade and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 .

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based" polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues bonded together via beta -1 ,4 linkages.

The cellulose-based thickening polymer may be associative, i.e. it may bear in its structure at least one C10-C30 fatty chain.

Alternatively, the cellulose-based thickening polymer may be non- associative, i.e. not bearing any C10-C30 fatty chains.

The cellulose-based thickening polymers may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, especially in microcrystalline form, and cellulose derivatives which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates. acetatepropionates and acetatetnmellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C₁₀-C₃o fatty chain, i.e. which are "non-associative", mention may be made of (Ci-C₄)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(CrC₄)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, NATROSOL 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, KLUCEL EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C_rC₄)alkyl(Ci-C )alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, M ETHOCEL E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, BERMOCOLL E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl methylcellu loses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C C₄)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and (poly)hydroxy(CrC₄)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcellu loses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.

The associative cellulose-based thickening polymer may be cationic and may be chosen from quaternized cationic celluloses and in particular quaternized cationic hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, preferably alkyl, alkylaryl or arylalkyl groups, or mixtures thereof, and preferably alkyl groups.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above qu ate mi zed celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing Cs-Cso hydrophobic chains that may be indicated include the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QQUATRISOFT LM-X529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X529-8 (Ci₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Mention may also be made of products such as SOFTCAT Polymer SL 100 sold by the company Amerchol.

The associative cellulose-based thickening polymer may be nonionic and may be chosen from nonionic cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (C ₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, cellulose derivatives modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL Polymer HM-1500(R) sold by the company Amerchol.

Among the cellulose-based thickening polymers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, cellulose ethers, and preferably nonionic cellulose ethers, are more particularly preferred.

Hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses, will especially be used.

In an embodiment of the invention, the cellulose-based thickening polymers are chosen from nonionic cellulose-based thickening polymers.

In an embodiment of the invention, the cellulose-based thickening polymers are chosen from non-associative polymers, i.e. not bearing any C io-C₃₀ fatty chains. In an embodiment of the invention, the cellulose-based thickening polymers are chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose.

The cellulose-based thickening polymer(s) may be present in an amount ranging amount of from about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 4.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.4% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In an embodiment, the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer(s) is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 0.1 %, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .1 %, 1 .2%, 1 .3%, 1 .4%, 1 .5%, 1 .6%, 1 .7%, 1 .8%, 1 .9% and 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

CATIONIC SURFACTANT

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least cationic surfactant.

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the invention include, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Quaternary ammonium salts useful in the invention include, for example:

- quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la):

in which:

the groups R₈ to R-π , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈ to R-n containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, Ci-C₃₀ alkoxy, (C₂-C₆)polyoxyalkylene, Ci-C₃₀ alkylamide, (C₁2-C₂2)aikyl(C2C₆)alkylamido, (Ci2-C-22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC₄)alkyi sulfates, (CrC₄)alkylsulfonates and (C_r C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or secondly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, which is sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company Van Dyk.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having formula (lla):

(Ma)

in which

R-12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

R-13 represents a hydrogen atom, a d-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

Ri4 represents a C C₄ alkyl group;

R-15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C₄ alkyl group;

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C_rC₄)alkyl sulfates, (C C )alkylsulfonates and (C_r C₄)alkylarylsulfonates;

R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R-I 4 denotes a methyl group, and R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this is sold for example under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts having formula (Ilia):

(Ilia)

in which

Ri6 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, Ri₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+( R_16a)(R_{1 7a})(R₁₈a) ;

i6a, i 7a, R i8a, Ris, R i 9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X- is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates. (CrC₄)aikyS sulfates, (C_rC₄)alkylsulfonates and (d- C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Quaternium 89 and Quaternium 75.

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions having the following formula (IVa):

(IVa) in which:

R₂2 is chosen from CrC₆ alkyl groups and C_rC₆ hydroxyalkyl or C_rC₆ dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R₂3 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C -C22 groups R₂y; and a hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from the group R₂8~C(=O)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated d-C₆ groups R₂g; and a hydrogen atom;

R₂₄, R₂6 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t. which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from

2 to 6;

r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ;

r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

X and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R₂g.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is an R₂₇ hydrocarbon group, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is an R₂g hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C-21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C - C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 . Advantageously, y is equal to 1 . Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (CrC₄)alkyl sulfate, (CrC₄)alkyl sulfonate or (CrC₄)aSky!aryS sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesuifonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (IVb) in which:

- R₂2 denotes a methyl or ethyl group.

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R₂3 is chosen from the group R₂6-C(=0)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or hydrocarbon-based C 4-C22 groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R₂₈-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R₂4, 26 and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13-C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVb), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company Henkel, STEPANQUAT by the company Stepan, NOXAMIUM by the company Ceca or REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name QUATARMIN BTC 131 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

In an embodiment, the cationic surfactants are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the cationic surfactant is behentrimonim chloride.

The cationic surfactants may be present in an amount of from about 1 % to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .8% to about 6% by weight, and even more preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In an embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 .5%, 1 .6%, 1 .7%, 1 .8%, 1 .9%, 2%, 2.1 %, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, 3.1 %, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%,3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 4%, 4.2%, 4.4%, 4.6%, 4.8%, 5%. 5.2%, 5.4%, 5.6%, 5.8%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, and 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

ACID

The compositions of the present invention comprises at least one acid.

The at least one acid may be chosen from organic acids such as mono- carboxylic acids and polycarboxylic acids (with 2 or more carboxylic acid groups).

Suitable examples of the organic acid include acetic acid, terephthalic acid, HOOC-PEG-COOH acid; citric acid, tartaric acid; betaine hydrochloride, gluconic acid or 2-ethylcaproic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof

Other suitable examples of the at least organic acid are chosen from polycarboxylic acids selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, mucic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, polyethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ethers, acrylic polyacid, copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid, polyaspartic acid, and carboxylic polydimethylsiloxanes.

In other embodiments, the organic acid is a sulfonic acid selected from benzene sulfonic acid, sulfonic acid HS0₂OH, taurine, 2-[4-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)- piperazin-1 -yl]ethane sulfonic acid (or HEPES), and (3E)-3-(4-{(E)-[7,7-dimethyl-3- oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)bicyclo[2.2.1 ]hept-2-ylidene]methyl}benzylidene)-7,7-dimethyl-2- oxobicyclo[2.2.1 ]hept-1 -yijmethane sulfonic acid.

In an embodiment, the organic acid is selected from trichloroacetic acid, L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, poly(ethylene glycol) bis(carboxymethyl)ether having a molecular weight of 250 g/mol, salicylic acid derivatives, jasmonic acid derivative, 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentyl acetic acid, 2-[4- (2-hydroxy-ethyl)-piperazin-1 -yl]-ethanesulfonic acid, malic acid, pyruvic acid, and mandelic acid.

In an embodiment, the organic acid is selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the at least one acid is an inorganic acid (or mineral acid) selected from hydrochloric acid, boric acid, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one acid may be present in an amount about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, preferably from about 0.06% to about 1 .5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.07% to about 1 % by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.08% to about 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

COSMETICALLY ACCEPTABLE SOLVENT

The compositions of the present invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable solvent. The cosmetically acceptable solvent may comprise water. Water can be present in the amount of about 85%, 84%, 83%, 82%, 80%, 75%, 70%, 65%, 60%, 55%, 50%, 45%, 40%, 35%, and 30%, by weight, relative the total weight of the compositions. Additionally, water can be present in the compositions of the present invention in the amount of from about 40% to about 85% by weight, or from about 45% to about 80% by weight, or from about 50% to about 75% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the weight of the compositions. The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen from organic solvents such as volatile and nonvolatile organic solvents.

Suitable organic solvents are typically C2-C8 alcohols, glycols, polyols, polyol ethers, glycol ethers, glycerin, hydrocarbons, oils, and mixtures thereof. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable organic solvents include glycol ethers, for example, ethylene glycol and its ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyi ether, propylene glycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monopropyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyi ether, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycolmonobutyl ether, and dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether. Glycol ethers are commercially available from The Dow Chemical Company under the DOW E-series and DOW P-series. One preferred glycol ether for use in the present invention is dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, known under the tradename of DOWANOL™ DPnB.

Suitable organic solvents also include synthetic oils and hydrocarbon oils include mineral oil, petrolatum, and C10-C40 hydrocarbons which may be aliphatic (with a straight, branched or cyclic chain), aromatic, arylaliphatic such as paraffins, iso-paraffins, isododecanes, aromatic hydrocarbons, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene. polydecene, squalene, petrolatum and isoparaffins, silicone oils, fluoro oils and mixtures, thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" refers to oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. Representative examples of hydrocarbon-based oils include oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C3-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane.

Examples of silicone oils that may be useful in the present invention include nonvolatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyltrimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt.

Other representative examples of silicone oils that may be useful in the present invention include volatile silicone oils such as linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity y centistokes (8 x 10-6 m 2/s) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific examples include dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of fluoro oils that may be suitable for use in the present invention include volatile fluro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoro-methylcyclopentane.

The amount of the organic solvent/compound present in the compositions of the present invention can range from about 0.5% to about 60%, or from about 0.5% to about 40%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 0.5% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 15%, by weight, or preferably from about 1 % to about 10%, by weight, or more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 8%, by weight, or from about 2% to about 6%, by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the amount of the organic solvent/compound present in the compositions of the present invention is at about 2%, about 2.5%, about 3%, about 3.5%, about 4%, about 4.5%, about 5%, about 5.5% or about 6% by weight, including all ranges and subranges there-between, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, compositions of the present invention comprise both water and organic solvents/compounds selected from volatile organic solvents, non-volatile organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred examples of organic solvents/compounds include volatile organic solvents such as C2 to C₄ mono-alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, polyols such as C₂-C₆ glycols e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, isododecane, volatile polyol ethers, volatile glycol ethers, acetone, propylene carbonate, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of volatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In other certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of volatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In yet other certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of volatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In preferred embodiments, the amount of volatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

Other preferred examples of organic solvents/compounds include nonvolatile organic solvents such as hydrocarbons such as straight chain hydrocarbons, nonvolatile silicone oils, mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogen ated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polydecene, squalene, petrolatum, isoparaffins, nonvolatile glycol ethers, and mixtures, thereof.

In certain embodiments, it is preferred that the amount of nonvolatile organic solvent/compound does not exceed 40% by weight, or does not exceed 20% by weight, or does not exceed 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition of the present invention.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, the at least one organic solvent is chosen from ethanol.

WAXES

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one wax chosen from waxes that are solid or semisolid at room temperature. In an embodiment, the at least one wax that may be used in the compositions of the present invention has a melting point at about or greater than 30°C, such as from between greater than 35°C to about 250°C or such as from between about 40°C to about 100°C. The at least one wax is defined as having a reversible change of solid/liquid state. The melting point of a wax in solid form is the same as the freezing point of its liquid form, and depends on such factors as the purity of the substance and the surrounding pressure. The melting point is the temperature at which a solid and its liquid are in equilibrium at any fixed pressure. A solid wax begins to soften at a temperature close to the melting point of the wax. With increasing temperature, the wax continues to soften/melt until at a particular temperature, the wax completely becomes liquid at a standard atmospheric pressure. It is at this stage that an actual melting point value is given for the material under consideration. When heat is removed, the liquefied wax material begins to solidify until the material is back in solid form. By bringing the wax material to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with other materials such as oils, and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, when the temperature of the mixture is brought to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax with the other materials in the mixture may be obtained.

The melting points of the wax(e)s of the present invention may be determined according to known methods or apparatus such as by differential scanning calorimetry, Banc Koffler device, melting point apparatus, and slip melting point measurements.

The wax(es) of the present invention may be chosen from waxes that have hardness values ranging from about 0.001 MPa (Mega Pa) to about 15 MPa, or such as from about 1 MPa to about 12 MPa, or such as from about 3 MPa to about 10 MPa.

The hardness of the wax may be determined by any known method or apparatus such as by needle penetration or using the durometer or texturometer.

The wax of the present invention is chosen from natural waxes and synthetic waxes. Waxes may also be known as solid lipids. The waxes of the present disclosure are those other than the solid fatty alcohols of the invention.

Natural waxes include animal, vegetable/plant, mineral, or petroleum derived waxes. They are typically esters of fatty acids and long chain alcohols. Wax esters are derived from a variety of carboxylic acids.

Examples of waxes of the present invention include, but are not limited to, beeswax, hydrogenated alkyl olive esters (commercially available under the trade name phytowax olive; e.g., hydrogenated myristyl olive esters and hydrogenated stearyl olive esters), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax. montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palm kernel glycerides/hydrogenated palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil, sugarcane, retamo, bayberry, soy, castor, esparto, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as those of the hydrocarbon type and polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerization or copoiymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, and Fischer-Tropsch® waxes, or else esters of fatty acids, such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides which are solid at temperatures of above 35°C, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 30°C and whose ester chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, or else di(1 ,1 ,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, which is sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HE ST® 2T-4S; polyglycerol beeswax; siliconyl beeswax; and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of waxes include polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), amides, bioplastics, PVP/eicosene copolymer, tricontanyl PVP, G20-40 Alkyl Stearate.

Other suitable examples of waxes or solid lipids include C₂o~4o di- and triglycerides, including those which contain unsaturated fatty acids, C2-40 fatty amines and their compounds, and sterols.

Other waxes of the present invention include silicone waxes or silicone resin waxes, such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain ranging from 10 to 45 carbon atoms. Examples of silicone waxes are silsesquioxane resin waxes such as C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, commercially available as DOW CORNING SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, from the company Dow Corning.

In an embodiment, the waxes of the present invention include cetyl esters which are commercially available from Laseron under the tradename of MIRACETI or from Croda under the tradename of CRODAMOL, tribehenin, which is commercially available from Croda under the tradename of SYNCROWAX HRC-PA- (MH) or SYNCROWAX HRC-PA-(RB) or from Vantage Specialty Chemicals under the tradename LIPOVOL GTV, beeswax, commercially available from various suppliers, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 18 L 57, hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, and commercially available from the supplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 14 L 48, VP/eicosene copolymer, commercially available from the supplier ISP under the tradenames, Antaron® V 220 or Ganex® V 220F, and ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, commercially available from the supplier Heterene under the tradename, HEST 2T-4S.

The wax(es) of the present invention may be chosen from soft waxes and from hard waxes. Soft waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of below about 70°C, and preferably, a melting point of below about 60°C. Hard waxes may be defined as those waxes which have a melting point of equal to or greater than about 70°C, and preferably, a melting point of equal to or greater than about 60°C.

In an embodiment, the wax is chosen from cetyl esters, tribehenin, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the wax is chosen from cetyl esters.

In an embodiment, the wax is chosen from tribehenin.

The at least one wax of the present invention that may be employed in the compositions of the present invention is in an amount ranging from in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, or preferably from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, or more preferably from about 1 % to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In an embodiment, the at least one wax is employed in an amount of about 0.1 %, 0.25%, 0.5%, 0.75%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .25%, 1 .5%, 1 .75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 8.5%, 9%, 9.5%. and 10%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE COMPOUNDS

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25 degrees centigrade, and preferably 1 x10^"5 to 1 m²/s.

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention can be provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 degrees centigrade and 260 degrees centigrade, and more particularly still from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. They are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, having the formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10^"6 m²/s at 25 degrees centigrade An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company To ray Silicone. Silicones coming within this category are also described in the paper published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , January 76, pp. 27-32, Todd and Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 degrees centigrade according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C. Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes, without implied limitation, of the following commercial products:

the Silbione(R) oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

the oils of the MIRASIL series sold by Rhodia;

the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s;

the VICASIL oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol.

Mention may also be made, in this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, of the products sold under the names ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are polydi(CrC₂o)alkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures, such as:

the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol, and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone, such as the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;

the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 SILICONE FLUID from General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above having a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10^"6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15 percent of gum SE 30 and 85 percent of an oil SF

96.

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems including the following units:

R₂SiO₂₂, R3S1O1 2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2

in which R represents an alkyl having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower CrC₄ alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by Shin- Etsu.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above comprising, in their structure, one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the abovementioned organo functional groups.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x10^"5 to 5x10^"2 m²/s at 25 degrees centigrade

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

Silbione(R) oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

the oils of the Rhodorsil(R) 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Mention may be made, among the organomodified silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising

C₆-C₂4 alkyl groups, such as the products named dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by Union Carbide, and the (C-^aSkyS methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 -C4 aminoalkyl groups;

alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

The silicone compounds of the present invention can also be chosen from dimethicone copolyols.

Dimethicone Copolyol, as used herein, includes a polymer made from dimethicone and polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene.

Suitable examples of dimethicone copolyols include Dimethicone PEG- 8 Ad i pate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate. Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG -12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/ PPG -4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/1 1 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/ PPG -20/15 Dimethicone. PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Dimethicone copolyols can also be described as silicone surfactants or as emulsifiers.

Thus, the dimethicone copolyol employed according to the invention is advantageously an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane. Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which:

Ri , R₂ and R₃ represent, independently of one another, a CrC₆ alkyl radical or a -(CH₂)x - (OCH₂CH₂)y - (OCH CH₂CH₂)z - OR₄ radical, at least one R_b R₂ or R₃ radical not being an alkyl radical; R₄ being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C₂-C₄ acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), R = R3 = methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R₄ is in particular a hydrogen.

Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of formula (I), of the compounds of formula (II):

(CH₃)₃SiO - [(CH₃)₂SiO]_A - (CH₃SiO)_B - Si(CH₃)₃

I

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

Mention may also be made, as examples of silicone compounds of formula (I), of the compounds of formula (III):

HO-(CH₂CH₂0)y-(CH₂)3-[(CH₃)₂SiO]A-(CH₂)3-OCH₂CH₂)y-OH (Hi)

in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning; and KF- 6013. KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise as dimethicone copolyol one of those sold under the names KF-6013, KF-6015, KF- 6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.

In another embodiment, the dimethicone copolyol in the compositions of the invention is chosen from PEG-12 dimethicone commercially available from Dow Corning under the trade name XIAMETER^® OFX-0193 FLUID.

The dimethicone copolyols in the compositions of the invention can also be chosen from at least one C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

This C₈-C₂2 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C₈-C₂2) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV):

(TV)

wherein:

- PE represents from groups (-C2H₄₀)x-(C3H₆o)y-R, wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80, provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0; and

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200, 0 is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21 , and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.

Preferably, R is a hydrogen atom, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, 0 is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, p is 1 5, and q is 3. In a preferred embodiment the at least one C₈-C₂2 alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name ABIL EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

In one embodiment, the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and more particularly the product marketed under the name ABIL EM- 90 by the company Goldschmidt (also known as cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone).

In an embodiment, the dimethicone copolyol is chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the dimethicone copolyol is preferably PEG- 12 dimethicone.

The silicones of the compositions according to the disclosed embodiments comprise at least one aminofunctional silicone chosen from silicones referred to according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicones or as functionalized Amodimethicones, for example Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone, sold under the tradename DC 8500 by the company Dow Corning, Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, sold under the tradename Silcare® Silicone SEA by the company Clariant, Amodimethicone and Trideceth-10 sold as an emulsion under the tradename Be!sil® ADM 6102 E by the company Wacker, and those sold under the tradenames Wacker Belsil® ADM 652, Wacker Belsil® ADM 653, or Wacker Belsil® ADM 8020 by the company Wacker. Amodimethicone and Trideceth- 10 and Cetrimonium chloride sold as an emulsion under the tradename Belsil® 6067E. Amodimethicone and Trideceth-12 and Cetrimonium chloride sold as an emulsion under the tradename Xiameter® MEM-0939 Emulsion by the company Dow Corning or sold as an emulsion under the tradename Belsil® 9000E by the company Wacker, and Amodimethicone and Trideceth-6 and Cetrimonium chloride sold as an emulsion under the tradename Xiameter® MEM-8299 Emulsion by the company Dow Corning .

In other embodiments, the aminofunctional silicones may be chosen from polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, which may be available under the tradename Baysiione®, including Baysiione® TP 391 1 , SME 253 and SFE 839, by the company GE Bayer Silicones. Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be acquired, for example, from GE Bayer Silicones under the tradename Baysiione®.

In an embodiment, the silicone of the present invention is chosen from dimethicone copolyols, amodimethicones, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the silicone of the present invention is chosen from PEG- 12 dimethicone.

In an embodiment, the silicone of the present invention is chosen from amodimethicones.

In an embodiment, the silicone of the present invention is an amodimethicone that is provided as an emulsion of Amodimethicone and one or more nonionic surfactants, for example, Trideceth-6, Trideceth-10 or and Trideceth- 12 and optionally, a cationic surfactant, for example, Cetrimonium chloride.

The silicone compounds are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material (AM) ranging from about 0.01 % to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the silicone compound is chosen from dimethicone copolyol, amodimethicones, and mixtures thereof, and is employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.01 %, 0.025%, 0.05%, 0.075%, 0.1 %, 0.1 1 %, 0.1 15%, 0.125%, 0.15%, 0.175, 0.2%, 0.255, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, 0.55%. 0.6%, 0.65%, 0.7%, 0.75%, 0.8%, 0.85%. 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .25%, 1 .5%, 1 .75%, 1 .75%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE

The compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure can further comprise at least one alkylpolyglucosides.

The alkyl(poly)glucoside (alkylpolyglycoside) is represented especially by the following general formula:

wherein:

- Ri represents a linear or branched alky I or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms;

- F½ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 1 5 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -6 or 1 - 4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C₈/C₁₆ alkyl(poly)glycosides 1 ,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1 200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1 200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 1 1 0 and ORAMIX NS 1 0; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG1 0 LK.

Preferably, use is made of C₈/Ci₆-alkyl(poly)glucosides 1 ,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

In an embodiment, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco -glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is decyl glucoside. In the present invention, the at least one alkylpolyglucoside be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 20% by weight, such as from about 1 % to about 18% by weight, or such as from about 1 .5% to about 15% by weight, or such as from about 1 .8% to about 12%, or such as from about 2% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 2% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 2.1 % to about 9.5% by weight, and most preferably from about 2.25% to about 9% by weight, based on the weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUND

The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise at least one quaternary ammonium compound other than the cationic surfactant of the present invention. This compound may be in the form of a cationic polymer or in the form of a quaternary ammonium salt.

The quaternary ammonium compound may be chosen from cationic associative polymers comprising, in their structure, a pendent or terminal hydrophobic chain, for example of alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The quaternary ammonium compound of the compositions can also be chosen from, for example:

(1 ) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, examples of which are:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in EP 80 976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or acrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937,

dimethylaminoethyl acrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, for example, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP, and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(CrC4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide. In at least one embodiment, a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50 percent by weight of the copolymer in mineral oil can be used. This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE SC 92 by the company Ciba. In some embodiments, a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50 percent by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE SC 95 and SALCARE SC 96 by the company Ciba.

Other examples are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation.

(2) copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxy-propylcelluloses grafted, for instance, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. These are sold under the name CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.

(3) non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C1 5, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Meyhall.

(4) polymers of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals.

(5) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. Exemplary mention may be made of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of at least one polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated C3-C-8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1 to 1 .4:1 ; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1 .8:1 . Polymers of this type are sold, for example, under the name HERCOSETT 57, PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as for example: dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 100 and MERQUAT 280 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name MERQUAT 550.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers; examples that may be mentioned include the products MIRAPOL A 15, MIRAPOL AD1 , MIRAPOL AZ1 and MIRAPOL 175 sold by the company Miranol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(1 1 ) vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers, such as partially hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide)s.

(12) cationic polyurethane derivatives, for example those of elastic nature formed from the reaction:

(a1 ) of at least one cationic unit resulting from at least one tertiary or quaternary amine bearing at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen,

(a2) of at least one mixture of at least two different nonionic units bearing at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen, for instance chosen from hydroxyl groups, primary or secondary amine groups, and thiol groups, and

(b) of at least one compound comprising at least two isocyanate functions.

(13) Other quaternary ammonium compound that may be used in the context of the disclosure include, for example, cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.

Particularly useful quaternary ammonium compound in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 1 1 , Dolyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51 , polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63. polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81 , polyquaternium-82, polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86, polyquaternium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91 , polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, ar d guar hydroxypropyltr monium chloride.

Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compound of the present invention include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 (Polyquaternium-67) available from AMERCHOL; POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available from AMERCHOL; JAGUAR C(R) 13-S, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT(R) 100 and 280. a dimethyl dialkyi ammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco.

In an embodiment, the quaternary ammonium compound of the present invention is chosen from polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-7, and mixtures thereof.

In the present invention, the quaternary ammonium compound may be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.15% to about 3% by weight, such as from about 0.2% to about 2%, or such as from about 0.2% to about 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

In certain embodiments, the quaternary ammonium compound may be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 0.05%, 0.1 %, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0,28%, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.45%, 0.5%, 0.6%, or 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, or 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one liquid fatty alcohol chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

The saturated liquid fatty alcohols can be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic. Among liquid saturated fatty alcohols, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol can be cited.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They can be acyclic. Among the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol may be mentioned.

ANIONIC SURFACTANT

The compositions of the present invention are substantially free of anionic surfactants. "Substantially free of anionic surfactants" as used herein herein refers to anionic surfactants that are included as a separate ingredient in the compositions of the present disclosure and does not refer to anionic surfactants that may accompany one or more ingredients of a raw material that is added into the composition. "Substantially free" as used herein means that while it is preferred that no anionic surfactants be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of anionic surfactants in the compositions of the invention provided that these amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the invention. In particular, "substantially free of anionic surfactants " means that anionic surfactants can be present in the composition, on a dry weight basis, in an amount of less than about 1 .5% by weight, or less than about 1 % by weight, or less than about 0.5% by weight, or less than about 0.05% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the weight of the composition.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. A species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. These anionic groups may be chosen from -CO2H, -CO2^"". -SO3H, -SO3^", -OSO3H, -OSO3^"", - H2PO3, -HPO3^", -PO3^2", -H2PO2, =HPO₂, -HPO2^", =PO₂ ^", =POH, and =PO^" groups.

The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

Sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions. The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO₃H or -OSO₃ ^").

Sulfate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units and these compounds possibly being in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (- SO₃H or -SO₃ ^"") and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions. The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO₃H or -SO₃ ^").

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. These compounds may possibly be in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO^") and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions. The carboxylic anionic surfactants may thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO^").

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Other examples are C₆-C₂4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids may be those represented by formula (1 ):

R, -(OC₂H₄)— OCH₂COOA (1 ) wherein:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C₉-Cg)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R₂ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably, Ri is a C₈-C₂o and preferably C₈- C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

AUXILIARY INGREDIENTS

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, selected, for example, from conditioning agents, non-cellulosic thickening polymers, non-polymeric thickening agents, nonionic surfactants other than the alkylpolyglucosides of the invention, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, neutralizing agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

PH

In an embodiment, the pH of the compositions of the invention is from about pH 2 to less than about 7, such as from about pH 2.5 to about 6.5, or preferably from about pH 3 to about 6, or more preferably from about pH 3 to about 5, or even more preferably from about pH 3 to about 4, including all ranges and subranges there-between.

The pH can be adjusted with acidic agents other than the acids of the invention such as chlorhydric acid or phosphoric acid, or with basic agents such as mineral basic agents as ammonia, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides or organic basic agents such as alkanolamines.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" which encompasses up to +/- 0.2. For example, a pH value of about 7.0 refers to 7 +/- 0.2.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of a cream.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of an emulsion, for example, oil-in-water emulsion and water-in-oil emulsion.

In an embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of paste.

In other embodiments, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 3,500 to about 10,000 cp, such as from about 4,000 to about 9,700 cp, such as from about 4,500 to about 9,500 cp, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, as measured by a Rheomat RM180 at 25°C.

In an embodiment, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 4,500 to about 9,500 cp, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition of the present invention has the texture and consistency of a hair treatment masque composition and yet, was easy to spread on the hair, had good foaming and cleansing properties while imparting conditioning benefits to hair (unlike a conventional treatment mask that does not foam or cleanse the hair.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the amount of the amphoteric surfactant, ranging from about 3.5% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, resulted in good foaming properties. It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that when the compositions of the present invention further comprised an alkylpolyglucoside, the foaming properties of the compositions were boosted or increased significantly.

In preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is a shampoo composition or a 2-in-1 shampoo composition.

The compositions of the present invention may be prepared according to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.

The composition of the present invention is stable such that the efficacy of the composition is preserved until the composition is ready to be used. In addition, the compositions of the present invention did not exhibit phase separation.

Embodiments of the disclosure also relate to a process for treating hair such as by washing or cleansing or shampooing the hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined according to the invention to the hair, and optionally rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.

Certain embodiments also relate to a process for cleansing keratinous substrates, such as hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as defined above to the said keratinous substrates, and rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.

In some embodiments, treatment of hair with the composition may be followed by application of a conditioning composition, and optionally rinsing the conditioning composition, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time.

The compositions may be applied to keratinous substrates, such as the hair, and subsequently rinsed off. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise shampoo compositions for shampooing and/or conditioning the hair, and in various embodiments the shampoo composition is massaged onto wet hair, thereby forming a foam on the hair and the scalp of human heads, and allowed to remain on the hair for a pre-determined amount of time, for example, for a short period of time after application to the hair, such as a period of time up to about 10 minutes, up to about 5 minutes, or up to about 2 minutes after application to the hair. The predetermined amount of time is sufficient to achieve satisfactory cleansing of the hair and scalp.

As used herein, the process and composition disclosed herein may be used on the hair that has not been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed.

As used herein, the process and composition disclosed herein may be also used on the hair that has been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result.

EXAMPLES

The following Examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only, with the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

The ingredient amounts in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula. Unless otherwise indicated, the ingredients are 100% active by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula.

EXAMPLE 1 : Compositions

Table 1 Inventive Shampoo Formulations

FORMULAS

% BY WEIGHT

INCI US A B C

COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE³ 15.79 15.79 15.79

B

(38% by weight active) (6% AM^*) (6% AM) (6% AM)

B CETEARYL ALCOHOL⁶ 18 14 18

A HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE^c 0.77 1 1 FORMULAS

% BY WEIGHT

Phase INCI US A B c

BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE^d 5 5 5

B

(79% by weight active) (3.95% AM) (3.95% AM) (3.95% AM)

CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL

B 2 - 2

ESTERS⁶

B TRIBEHENIN* - 4 -

A TARTARIC ACID 0.2 0.1 0.2

C PEG-12 DIMETHICONE⁹ - 1 -

AMODIMETHICONE (and)

TRIDECETH-6 (and)

2

C CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE^h - -

(0.1 15% AM) (57.5% by weight of

amodimethicone, AM)

C PRESERVATIVES 0.9 0.7 0.9

A COLORANTS 0.016 0.016 0.016

C FRAGRANCE 0.7 0.7 0.7

A WATER QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

^*AM = active material

a commercially available as DEHYTON PK 45 or DEHYTON PK 45/MB from the supplier, BASF; also commercially available from other suppliers

b commercially available under the tradename LANETTE D from BASF; also commercially available from other suppliers

c commercially available as NATROSOL 250 HHR PC from Ashland or CELLOSIZE HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE PCG- 10 from Amerchol (Dow Chemical)

d available from many suppliers

e commercially available under the tradename of MIRACETI from the supplier Laserson or the tradename of CRODAMOL from the supplier Croda, or the tradename of CETYL ESTERS WAX 814P from the supplier Koster Keunen

' commercially available as LIPOVOL GTB from the supplier, Vantage Specialty Chemicals or under the tradename SYNCROWAX from Croda

⁹ commercially available as XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID from the supplier Dow Corning ^h commercially available asXIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION from the supplier Dow

Corning

Table 2 Inventive Shampoo Formulations with Cationic Polymers

Commercially available as POLYQUTA 400KC from the supplier KCI

Commercially available as MERQUAT 550PR POLYMER from the supplier Nalco (Lubrizol) Table 3 Inventive Shampoo Formulations with Alkvlpolvglucoside

FORMULAS

% BY WEIGHT

INCI US F H 1 J e

BETAINE³ (38% by weight (4.5% (4.5% 6.75% (9% AM) (6% AM) active) AM) AM) AM)

B CETEARYL ALCOHOL" 18 18 18 18 18

HYDROXYETHYLCELLU

A 1 1 1 1 1

LOS E

BEHENTRIMONIUM 5 5 5 5 5

B CHLORIDE" (79% by (3.95% (3.95% (3.95% (3.95% (3.95% weight active) AM) AM) AM) AM) AM)

CETYL ESTERS (and)

B 2 2 2 2 2

CETYL ESTERS⁶

A TARTARIC ACID 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

8.49 12.74 4.25

DECYL GLUCOSIDE 16.98

A (4.5% (6.75% (2.25% - (53% by weight) (9% AM)

AM) AM) AM)

C PRESERVATIVES 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9

A COLORANTS - - - - 0.016

C FRAGRANCE - - - - 0.7

A WATER QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

' commercially available as PLAN1 ^"ACARE 2000 UP from 1 he supplier, BASF

Table 4 Shampoo Formulation Without Amphoteric Surfactant (Comparative)

FORMULA

% BY WEIGHT

Phase INCI US K

B COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE -

B CETEARYL ALCOHOL⁰ 18 FORMULA

% BY WEIGHT

Phase INCI US K

A HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE'" 1

BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE^d (79% by weight 5

B

active) (3.95% AM)

B CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS⁶ 2

A TARTARIC ACID 0.2

8.49

A DECYL GLUCOSIDE¹ (53% by weight)

(4.5% AM)

C PRESERVATIVES 0.9

A WATER QS 100

The compositions (formulations) above were each prepared according to the general procedure:

1 . Half of the total amount of water (50%) was poured into a main kettle.

2. The ingredients of phase A were added into the main kettle and the mixture was heated up to 50°C and mixed for 5 minutes.

3. The ingredients of phase B were added to the mixture and the mixture was heated up to 65°C.

4. When mixing was complete, the mixture was emulsified for 1 0 minutes at 3500rpm.

5. The mixture was cooled down to 40°C and the ingredients of phase C were added into the mixture resulting into the final composition.

6. The pH of the composition was adjusted and the viscosity of the composition was checked.

The inventive formulas above were found to be stable. Stability was measured by placing the formulas in a humidity-controlled environment set at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C for at least 2 months. Such result indicates that the formulas will be stable for at least 36 months under reasonable storage conditions. The formula was considered to be stable when no phase separation is observed and there were very little fluctuations in viscosity and pH. The consistency and texture of the inventive formulas above allow for the formulas to be packaged in various ways, such as in jars, in tubes (e.g., squeeze tubes) or in bottles (eg, applicator bottles).

EXAMPLE 2 VISCOSITY

The viscosities of several conventional rinse-out formulas (shampoo, conditioner, and hair treatment mask) were measured and compared to the viscosities of Formulas C and F in Example 1 . The viscosities were measured using the Mettler RM 180 Rheomat, viscometer spindle #2, at 25°C.

Table 5 Shampoo, Conditioner, and Treatment Mask Formulations

(Comparative Formi jlas)

Fi DRMULA

% E ,Y WEIGHT

INCI US L M N

SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.002

SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.436

2-OLEAMIDO-1 ,3-OCTADECANEDIOL 0.01 0.01

CITRIC ACID 0.02

CITRIC ACID 0.025 0.025 0.025

GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1 .6

MINERAL OIL 1 .63 2

CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6

CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS 1

FRAGRANCE 0.7 0.6 0.6

GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM

0.23

CHLORIDE

CARBOMER 0.1

HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-

0.05 PROPYL SILANETRIOL

SALICYLIC ACID 0.2

PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5

CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE 0.2

BENZOIC ACID 0.1

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5

AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-6 (and)

1 .51

CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE¹¹ (57.5% by weight

(0.87% AM)

of amodimethicone, AM)

HEXYLENE GLYCOL 0.4

WATER 72.527 87.965 81 .725

GLYCERIN 0.5

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3

CETEARYL ALCOHOL

6.57

COCO-BETAINE (30% by weight active)

(1 .97% AM) Fi ORMULA

% B ,Y WEIGHT

INCI US L M N

CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 > 2

BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.15

(79% by weight active) (1 .7% AM)

HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONSUM HYDROLYZED

0.01 0.01

WHEAT PROTEIN

CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and)

DIPALMITOYLETHYL 4.5 HYDROXYETHYLMONIUM METHOSULFATE

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 6.62

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 8.86

SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM (SUGAR CANE)

EXTRACT (and) CITRUS LIMON (LEMON)

PEEL EXTRACT (and) PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) 0.05 0.05 0.05 FRUIT EXTRACT (and) CAMELLIA SINENSIS

LEAF EXTRACT

PYRUS MALUS (APPLE) FRUIT EXTRACT 0.25 0.25 0.25

PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FRUIT EXTRACT 0.1

NIACINAMIDE 0.05 0.05 0.05

PYRIDOXINE HCI 0.05 0.05 0.05

Table 6 Viscosity Measurements

EXAMPLE 3: METHODS OF TREATING AND CLEANSING (SHAMPOOING) THE HAIR AND ASSESSMENTS OF THE FORMULA AND PERFORMANCE ON HAIR

Hair swatches were first wetted with water. The composition of the invention was then applied onto the hair and spread throughout the length of the swatch by the hands, while rubbing or massaging the hair onto the fibers in order to produce a foam. The swatches were then rinsed with water and dried.

The composition according to the invention (for example formulas A to C) exhibited a thick creamy texture, high viscosity and consistency shown in Figure 1 as well as good foaming properties when applied and spread/massaged onto wet hair.

In addition, inventive formulas D and E which additionally contained a quaternary ammonium compound (polyquaternium-10 and polyquaternium-7) were found to provide greater conditioning benefits to the hair without negatively impacting the cleansing properties of the formulas.

Furthermore, inventive formulas F to I which further contained an alkylpolyglucoside, decyl glucoside. in varying amounts, exhibited even greater foaming properties as measured by the foam volume which was found to range from greater than 121 .7 ml_ to about 148.7 ml_ as compared to about 121 .7 ml_ for the inventive formulas that did not contain an alkylpolyglucoside.

In contrast, the comparative formula K which contained an alkylpolyglucoside, decyl glucoside, but did not contain an amphoteric surfactant exhibited very low foaming properties.

Viscosity measurements in Table 6 for Formulas C and F ranged from about 4,500 to 9,500 cP. The comparative formulas L (conventional shampoo) and M (conventional conditioner) were significantly thinner in consistency is evidenced by the lower viscosity values as compared to the inventive formulas. The inventive formulas' texture and consistency were very similar to those of a hair treatment mask composition such as Formula N. However, while the treatment mask is used mainly to condition the hair and does not foam, the formulas of the invention (C and F) were able to form good foams for cleansing/shampooing the hair. The thick creamy texture provided the benefits of ease of application of the invention's formulas into the hair and spreadability of the formulas on the hair, while preventing the formulas from readily dripping off the hair, thereby allowing the formulas to remain on the hair and condition the hair during the cleansing process.

It is to be understood that the foregoing describes preferred embodiments of the invention and that modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as set forth in the claims.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . A hair cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable solvent:

(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

(b) at least one solid fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer;

(d) at least one cationic surfactant; and

(e) at least one acid;

wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of from 3.5% to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the least one amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of from 3.75% to 8% by weight, preferably from 4% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 4.5% to 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition, according to claim 1 and claim 2, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco- betaine, cocoamphodiacetate and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one solid fatty alcohol is present in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 9% to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one solid fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

6. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one solid fatty alcohol is selected from stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 4.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 4% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.4% to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy(CrC₆)alky!ce!luioses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), carboxy(C C₆)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluoses. hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poiy)hydroxy(CrC₄)alkyl-(CrC₄)alkyiceiluSoses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1 .8% to 6% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one acid is present in an amount of 0.05% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.06% to 1 .5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 1 % by weight, and even more preferably from 0.08% to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one acid is an organic acid selected from tartaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, citric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, salicylic acid, benzoic acid, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable solvent is water and is present in an amount of from 40% to 85% by weight, preferably from 45% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one wax compound selected from C₆ to C₄₀ fatty esters, triglyceride esters, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, such as from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1 % to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition, according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one wax compound is selected from cetyl esters, tribehenin, and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one silicone compound and present in an amount of from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one silicone compound is selected from amino functional silicones, dimethicone copolyols chosen from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane. and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG -4/12 Dimethicone. PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, and Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alkylpolyglucosides present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, such as from 1 % to 18% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 .8% to about 12% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one alkylpolyglucoside is selected from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

21 . The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising further comprising at least one quaternary ammonium compound other than the cationic surfactant (d) and present in an amount of from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 4% by weight, or more preferably from 0.15% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is in the form of a cream.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition has a viscosity ranging from 3.500 to 10,000 cp, and preferably from 4,000 to 9,700 cp, and more preferably from 4,500 to about 9,500 cp.

24. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is substantially free of an anionic surfactant.

25. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is a rinse-off composition and is used for cleansing or shampooing hair.

26. A process for treating hair, the process comprising the step of applying onto hair, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

27. The process according to the preceding claim, wherein the process further comprises the steps of:

(i) massaging or spreading the composition on the hair in the presence of water; and

(ii) rinsing the hair with water.

28. The process according to the preceding claim, wherein the process provides cleansing and/or conditioning and/or manageability benefits to the hair.