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WO2016035871A1 - Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers including polyol - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers including polyol Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016035871A1
WO2016035871A1 PCT/JP2015/075144 JP2015075144W WO2016035871A1 WO 2016035871 A1 WO2016035871 A1 WO 2016035871A1 JP 2015075144 W JP2015075144 W JP 2015075144W WO 2016035871 A1 WO2016035871 A1 WO 2016035871A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
cosmetic composition
alkali
amount
weight amount
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PCT/JP2015/075144
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French (fr)
Inventor
Kenta Kitsuka
Daisuke Misu
Hidetoshi Yamada
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, including a polyol.
  • Two-agent type cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers such as hair bleaching composition or permanent hair dye composition, have been widely used because of their high bleaching performance and long-lasting coloring performance.
  • the two-agent type compositions are usually prepared by mixing a first agent containing an alkaline agent and a second agent containing an oxidizer. Users are intended to mix the first and the second agents just prior to use, and apply the mixture onto keratin fibers.
  • each of the first and the second agents should have low viscosity so that they are easily admixed together, while the mixture of the first and the second agents has to have adequate viscosity so that the mixture stays on the desired areas of keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to bleach or color the keratin fibers.
  • ammonia has been commonly used as an alkaline agent of the two- agent type composition because of its high bleaching power.
  • compositions containing ammonia gives off strong unpleasant odor while applying the composition on keratin fibers.
  • organic amines such as monoethanolamine (MEA)
  • MEA monoethanolamine
  • One aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers having less offensive odor yet having strong bleaching power.
  • the present invention also provides a two-agent type cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, in which both agents are easily mixed and the mixture has an adequate viscosity to stay on keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to change colors.
  • a composition for keratin fibers results from the mixture of: an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant; and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the composition for keratin fibers is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
  • the alkaline agent is at least one of an organic base, an inorganic base, and a salt thereof.
  • the alkaline agent is an alkanolamine.
  • the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or a mixture thereof.
  • a method for treating keratin fibers includes: mixing an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material, to prepare a cosmetic composition; and applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
  • a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers is produced by a process including: mixing an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1 -40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
  • a cosmetic kit includes: an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
  • an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant
  • an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1 -40 wt%, preferably 0.5- 30 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition.
  • the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
  • hair includes any keratin fibers, for example, living hair such as head hair, and non-living hair such as hair swatches, wigs, and extensions.
  • room temperature indicates that the temperature is not critical and that no exact temperature has to be maintained. Generally, “room temperature” is understood to mean temperatures ranging from about 15 °C to about 27 °C.
  • total weight (amount) of the alkali-containing composition is intended to mean the sum of the weight (amount) of all components, compounds, or ingredients that constitute the alkali-containing composition.
  • Total weight (amount) of the oxidizing composition is intended to mean the sum of the weight (amount) of all components, compounds, or ingredients that constitute the oxidizing composition.
  • the “total weight (amount) of the cosmetic composition (for keratin fibers)" is equal to the sum of the “total weight (amount) of the alkali-containing composition” and the “total weight (amount) of the oxidizing composition.”
  • a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers results from the mixture of: (i) an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and (ii) an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material.
  • the alkali-containing composition includes at least one alkaline agent.
  • the at least one alkaline agent may be organic or inorganic, or a mixture of an organic and inorganic alkaline agents.
  • the at least one alkaline agent is preferably selected from organic bases, salts of organic bases, inorganic bases, and salts of inorganic bases. Such alkaline agents may be used individually, or can be mixed with different kind of alkaline agents.
  • the first example of the alkaline agent is organic bases.
  • organic bases may include organic amines and pyridines. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is chosen from: monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; amino acids; oligomers of amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
  • the organic bases may be organic amines, including alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, or trialkanolamines, including one to three identical or different Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals.
  • alkanolamines may include, but are not limited to,
  • diisopropanolamine N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l ,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
  • the at least one alkaline agent may be at least one alkanolamine.
  • the alkanolamine is chosen from monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol.
  • the alkaline agent is selected from alkalnoamines, and is particularly monoethanolamine.
  • the at least one alkaline agent may be an organic amine having the formula below:
  • Ci-Ce alkyl radical, and Rx, Ry, Rz, and Rt which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical, C ⁇ -Ce hydroxyalkyl radical or C C 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • organic amines may include, but are not limited to, 1 ,3- diaminopropane, l ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.
  • the organic amine may be chosen from amino acids including, but not limited to, arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, and citrulline.
  • the second example of the alkaline agent is salts of the organic bases described above.
  • the at least one alkaline agent may include a salt of the organic amines described above.
  • Salts of the organic bases may be organic or inorganic salts.
  • the organic salts may be chosen from the salts of organic acids such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, and tartrates.
  • the inorganic salts may be chosen from hydrohalides such as hydrochlorides, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and phosphates.
  • the third example of the alkaline agent is inorganic bases.
  • the inorganic bases may include, but are not limited to, alkaline metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkaline metal (hydrogen)carbonates, alkaline earth metal
  • inorganic bases include, but are not limited to, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, sodium metasilicate, and potassium metasilicate.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include a small amount of aqueous ammonia.
  • the alkali-containing composition does not include aqueous ammonia as the alkaline agent.
  • at least one alkanolamine, such as monoethanolamine, may be included as the alkaline agent.
  • the amount of the alkaline agent in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 0.01 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10 % by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of the alkaline agent may be controlled so that the amount is from 0.05 % to 15 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 8 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the alkali-containing composition includes at least one surfactant.
  • the at least one surfactant may be nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric; and may also be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.
  • the surfactant may be used either singly or in combination two or more thereof.
  • the at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include one nonionic surfactant; or may include two, three, or more of different types of nonionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactant that are suitable for cosmetic or dermatological use may be used.
  • nonionic surfactants are described (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.
  • ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan including from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
  • oils from plant origin fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol; (C6-C 24 )alkylpolyglucosides; N-(C 6 -C 24 )alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 1 o-C 14 )alkylamine oxides or N- (C 1 o-C 14 )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from oxyalkylenated
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C2 4 )alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
  • the surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and preferably between 2 and 50.
  • the nonionic surfactants do not include any oxypropylene units.
  • the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (i.e. polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohols).
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols preferably C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohol ' s
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with decyl alcohol, especially those containing from 3 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Deceth-3 to Deceth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Oleth-9 to Oleth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cet
  • oxyethylene groups e.g., Steareth-10 to Steareth-30, such as Steareth-20, as the CTFA names
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are represented by the following formula:
  • R is a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 8 -C3 0 alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • m is a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
  • Alkyl polyglucosides that are preferably used in the present invention may include those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 glucoside units.
  • alkyl polyglucosides may include, but are not limited to, decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9/Cl 1- polyglucoside (1.4)) for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10®, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP®, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10®; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110®; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N® and Plantacare 1200®; and cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP®.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides may be used alone, or in combination with different alkyl polyglucosides.
  • the at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may be polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.
  • Preferred polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol may include polyoxyethylenated C 8 -C 3 o fatty alcohol, preferably C 8 -C 2 o fatty alcohol, preferably with 1 to 30 oxyethylene units.
  • the at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may be alkyl polyglucoside. The combinations of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and alkyl polyglucoside may also be used.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactant.
  • Various types of anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants that are suitably used in cosmetic or dermatologic compositions may be utilized.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, alkyl quarternary ammonium salt, for example chloride an4 methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl- dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of
  • the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and tri-ester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • quaternary ammonium salts useful examples may include, but are not limited to, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,
  • benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70.
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3- dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3- dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • the weight amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is same as, or greater than, that of the cationic surfactant in the alkali- containing composition.
  • the amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali- containing composition may be more than 10 times, or more than 15 times, of the amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 5 to 80 % by weight, more preferably from 25 to 70 % by weight, even more preferably from 30 to 55 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, contained in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 25 to 70 % by weight, more preferably from 30 to 55 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the nonionic surfactants contained in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably less than 30 % by weight, more preferably less than 10 % by weight, even more preferably less than 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the cationic surfactants contained in the alkali- containing composition.
  • the amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition is from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali- containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • HLB Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance
  • a surfactant that is lipophilic in character is assigned a low HLB number (below about 9) and one that is hydrophilic in character is assigned a high HLB number (above about 11).
  • HLB Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance
  • a general discussion of the HLB classification system for emulsifiers can be found in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" published in 1984 by ICI Americas, Inc., Wilmington, DE.
  • the HLB value pf the surfactant is not limited.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include at least one polyol that are defined below.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include a single type of the polyol, or a combination two or more thereof.
  • the polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition such as surfactant, fatty material, and organic solvents as defined below.
  • the amount of polyol in the alkali-containing composition may be 0 or from 0.05 to 60 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of polyol in the alkali-containing composition is preferably controlled so that the amount of the polyols in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of polyol in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all polyols contained in the cosmetic composition.
  • the alkali-containing composition may further include at least one fatty material that is defined below.
  • the fatty material that can be employed in the oxidizing composition as described below may also be included in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the alkali- containing composition may include a single type of fatty material, or a combination two or more thereof.
  • the amount of fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • amount of fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight relative to the, total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • the alkali-containing composition may further include at least one oxidative dye, at least one direct dye, or a mixture thereof.
  • the direct dye may be an anionic dye, a nonionic dye, or a cationic dye.
  • the cosmetic composition may work as a hair color composition. Without oxidative dye and/or direct dye, the cosmetic composition may work as a hair bleach composition.
  • the oxidative dyes can be utilized alone or in combination with different kinds of oxidative dyes.
  • the oxidative dyes can be activated and can react with other molecules to form colored complexes which deliver permanent colors to hair.
  • the oxidative dye may include oxidation bases and couplers.
  • the alkali-containing composition may include at least one oxidative dye.
  • the oxidative dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
  • the oxidation bases are selected from, for example, paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
  • para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4- N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P- hydroxye)-
  • paraphenylenediamine para- tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloropara- phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
  • the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -aminophenyl)- 1 ,3 -diaminopropanol, ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis(P- hydroxyethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -amino phenyl)ethylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N' -bis(ethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -amino-3 ' - methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and
  • para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-( ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phe ol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
  • ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenoland 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
  • heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
  • Other pyridine oxidation bases that may be utilized include the 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l, 5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3 -aminopyrazolo [1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6
  • pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169 571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0 770 375 or patent application W096/15765, for instance 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy- 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in DE 3 843 892 and DE 4 133 957, and WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance, 4,5-diamino-l -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l -( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l -phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l - methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1 ,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5- diamino-3-
  • a heterocyclic base that may also be used is 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one or a salt thereof.
  • the alkali-containing composition may optionally include one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those used in the dyeing of keratin fibers.
  • couplers advantageously chosen from those used in the dyeing of keratin fibers.
  • couplers mention may be made especially of metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenebased couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
  • addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • the amount of the oxidation base(s) is controlled so that each oxidation base is present from 0.0001 % by weight to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and preferably from 0.005 % by weight to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of the coupler(s) is controlled so that each coupler is present from 0.0001 % by weight to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and preferably from 0.005 % by weight to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • any combinations of the oxidation bases and couplers may be utilized. Generally, the combinations of the oxidation bases and couplers determine the color of the complex of these molecules, which then determine the resulting color of the hair.
  • the alkali-containing composition may be in the form suitable for preparing cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers, including, but not limited to, liquid, cream, gel, and paste.
  • the alkali-containing composition is in a liquid form at room temperature.
  • the viscosity of the alkali-containing composition is sufficiently low so that the alkali-containing composition can be readily mixed with the oxidizing composition.
  • the viscosity of the alkali-containing composition may be less than 500 mPa' S before being mixed with the oxidizing composition.
  • the viscosity of the alkali-containing composition is less than 500 mPa-s, preferably from 5 mPa s to 300 mPa s, more preferably from 10 mPa-s to 200 mPa-s, before being mixed with the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition includes at least one oxidizing agent.
  • Various oxidizing agents that may be desirably used for cosmetic or dermatological compositions may be utilized.
  • the oxidizing agents may facilitate dispersion and/or solubilization of natural pigments in keratin fibers, or melanin, and catalyze the oxidation of the oxidative dyes.
  • the oxidizing agent may be chosen from peroxides, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, and salts and mixtures thereof.
  • oxidizing agent may include, but are not limited to, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxigenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, alkali metal or alkali earth metal percatbonates, and also peracids and precursors thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent may be chosen from, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, and alkali metal bromates.
  • the oxidizing agent can be used alone or in combination with different types of oxidizing agents.
  • the amount of the oxidizing agent may be from 0.05 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 12 % by weight, more preferably from 1 to 12 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition is controlled so that the amount may be from 0.1 to 12 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 9 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the oxidizing composition includes at least one fatty material.
  • the fatty material may be used singly, or two or more different types of fatty materials may be used in combination.
  • the term "fatty material” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5 %, preferably 1 % and even more preferably 0.1 %).
  • the fatty material may include, in its structure, at least one sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty material may be soluble in organic solvents, for instance, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid.
  • liquid and solid mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid), or solid, respectively, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. It is preferable that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste, more preferably in the form of a liquid, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty material may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and fluoro oils, preferably from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, more preferably from hydrocarbon oils.
  • the fatty material may be, for example: nonsilicone oils such as mineral, plant, animal, or synthetic oils; nonsilicone waxes; silicones; lower alkanes; fatty acids; fatty alcohols; fatty acid esters; and fatty alcohol esters.
  • the fatty material is chosen from
  • oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and silicones. More preferably, the fatty material is chosen from oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and silicone oils.
  • oil means any fatty material that is not in a solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The fatty material may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the fatty material does not include salified carboxylic acid groups.
  • the fatty material is not a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated ether.
  • the fatty materials may be nonsilicone oils such as mineral, plant, animal, or f synthetic oils.
  • plant oil may include, but are not limited to, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oil may include, but are not limited to, squalene,
  • Synthetic glycerides such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, including those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 may also be used.
  • the fatty acids that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group (such as 1 to 4).
  • the fatty acids may be unsaturated fatty acids which may include one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • Specific examples of fatty acids may include, but are not limited to, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid.
  • the fatty alcohols that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and may contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Specific examples of fatty alcohols may include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the mixture thereof (such as cetylstearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol.
  • Such fatty alcohols may be used alone, or in combination with different fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty material may also be nonsilicone wax.
  • "wax” means the fatty material that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and has a melting point of, for example, 35 °C or higher.
  • nonsilicone wax may include, but are not limited to: plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax esparto grass wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin; mineral waxes such as paraffin wax or ozokerite; animal waxes such as beeswax or rnodified beeswax (such as carabellina); and synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (such as the wax sold under the name
  • the esters may be of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Q-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C!-C2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • monoesters may include, but are not limited to, dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and esters of C!-C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and esters of C 2 -C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
  • pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl
  • tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate
  • propylene glycol dicaprylate propylene glycol dicaprate
  • tridecyl erucate triisopropyl citrate
  • triisostearyl citrate triisostearyl citrate
  • glyceryl trilactate
  • trioctyldodecyl citrate trioleyl citrate
  • propylene glycol dioctanoate neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stea
  • the composition may also include, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars may include, but are not limited to, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o, preferably C 12 -C 22 , fatty acids.
  • the unsaturated fatty acids may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the esters may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be selected from, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, in particular, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters may include, but are not limited to, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • Glucate® DO is a methylglucose dioleate, by the company Amerchol.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid may include, but are not limited to:
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27 % diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 52 % monoester and 48 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 45 % monoester and 55 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 39 % monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the name TEGOSOFT® PSE.
  • the silicones that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with
  • organic groups having a viscosity from 5x10 " to 2.5 m /s at 25 °C.
  • the silicones that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins, or gums.
  • the silicones are in the form of oils.
  • silicones may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups, and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups, and alkoxy groups.
  • the organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • volatile silicones may include, but are not limited to, those having a boiling point ranging from 60 °C to 260 °C, including: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 or 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or SILBIONE® 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 or 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or SILBIONE® 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopen
  • dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • organosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra- trimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3 ,3 '-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.
  • volatile silicone includes linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10 m Is at
  • Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins
  • polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
  • silicones may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25° C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a nonlimiting mariner, of the following commercial products:
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicone gums may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular masses ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • exemplary solvent include, but are not limited to, volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,
  • polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils oils, isoparaffms, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • mixtures may include, but are not limited to:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s, and an SF 96 oil, with a viscosity of 5> ⁇ 10 /s. This product may include 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins include crosslinked siloxane systems having the following units:
  • R represents a hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R may be a Ci- C 4 lower alkyl radical, such as methyl.
  • the organomodified silicones are silicones as described above and including in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
  • the organomodified silicones may be any suitable silicones described above.
  • the organomodified silicones may be any suitable silicones described above.
  • polydiarylsiloxanes including polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from linear and/or branched
  • polyalkylarylsiloxanes may include, but are not limited to, the products sold under the following names:
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C 12 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; and - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee Polymers, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING® 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C
  • the fatty material may be used either singly or in combination two or more thereof.
  • the fatty material in the alkali-containing composition may include hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil.
  • hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil is intended to mean hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon oil may be an oil of plant, animal, mineral, or synthetic origin, or a mixture thereof.
  • hydrocarbon oil of animal origin may include squalane and squalene.
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin may include sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, abovado oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.
  • hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin may include liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as PARLEAM®.
  • mineral oils are preferred.
  • silicone oil may include, but are not limited to, linear
  • organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes,
  • methylhydrogonpolysiloxanes and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as
  • dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is from 10 % to 50 % by weight, more preferably from 20 % to 40 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the hydrocarbon oil in the oxidizing composition is at most 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the mineral oil in the oxidizing composition is at most 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is preferably controlled so that the amount of fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition may include at least one polyol that is defined below.
  • the oxidizing composition may include a single polyol, or a combination two or more thereof.
  • the polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition, such as surfactant and fatty material as defined above, or organic solvents as defined below.
  • the amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition may be 0 or from 0.05 to 60 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the polyols contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition is controlled so that the amount of the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition may include at least one surfactant. Any surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants, which may be included in the alkali-containing composition as described above may also be used in the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the surfactant in the oxidizing composition is preferably from 0.1 to
  • amount of surfactant in the oxidizing composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the surfactant in the oxidizing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition is from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • amount of the surfactants contained in the cosmetic composition is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers
  • a cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition just prior to be applied onto the desired areas of keratin fibers.
  • the interval between the mixing and application to the keratin fibers may be less than 30 minutes.
  • the interval is less than 20 minutes, more preferably less than 10 minutes.
  • the mixing ratio (by weight) of the alkali-containing composition and the developer composition is preferably from 1 :0.2 to 1 :5, more preferably from 1 :0.5 to 1 :3.
  • the cosmetic composition prepared by mixing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition includes at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one fatty material, and at least one polyol.
  • Each of the alkaline agent, surfactant, oxidizing agent, fatty material, and polyol may derive from the alkali-containing composition, the oxidizing composition, or both.
  • the cosmetic composition may include a small amount of aqueous ammonia. However, the cosmetic composition preferably does not include aqueous ammonia.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol.
  • polyol denotes a compound having more than one hydroxyl (-OH) groups.
  • polyol denotes a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsatulated alkyl group having more than one hydroxyl (- OH) groups (i.e., polyhydroxyalkyl compound), as well as a polymer of such polyhydroxyalkyl compounds.
  • the term “monool” is intended to mean a compound having one hydroxyl group. Any polyols that are desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions may be employed in the present invention.
  • Suitable polyols preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • Examples of such polyols may include, but are not limited to: glycerin (or glycerine, glycerol); alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol; polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols; sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol; sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example, glucose or sucrose and aminosugars such as, for example, glucamine; and monosaccharide sugars containing less than 5 carbon atoms such as dihydroxyacetone.
  • glycerin or glycerine, glycerol
  • alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
  • polyols examples include, but are not limited to, glycerin, sorbitol, dihydroxyacetone, sucrose, polyethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol, monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition such as surfactant and fatty material as defined above, or organic solvents as defined below.
  • the polyol in the cosmetic composition may be contained in the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both, before cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of polyol contained in the alkali-containing composition is equal to, or greater than, that contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • the alkali-containing composition is equal to, or greater than, that contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • composition may include the polyol in an amount of from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
  • the oxidizing composition may not include Jhe polyol.
  • the amount of the polyol in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactant in the cosmetic composition may derive from the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both. That is, the surfactant in the cosmetic composition may include the at least one surfactant derived from the alkali-containing composition, and any other surfactants that may be contained in the oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the at least one surfactant in the cosmetic composition is from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition is from 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight, more preferably from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may further include from 0.1 % to 10 % by weight, preferably from 1 % to 5 % by weight, of cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactant, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material.
  • the fatty material in the cosmetic composition may derive from the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both. That is, the fatty material in the cosmetic composition may include the at least one fatty material derived from the oxidizing composition, and any other fatty materials that may be contained in the alkali-containing composition.
  • the amount of the at least one fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include, as the fatty material, hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil.
  • the amount of hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition may be at least 10 % by weight, preferably at least 15 % by weight, more preferably at least 17 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • “amount of hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition” is intended to mean the sum of the amount of the hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil included in the alkali-containing composition and the developer composition.
  • the amount of mineral oil in the cosmetic composition may be at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic
  • the weight ratio of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more.
  • the cosmetic composition does not exceed three, preferably two, even more preferably 1.3. If the weight ratio of the surfactants to the fatty materials is less than 0.1, the cosmetic composition may not have a sufficient viscosity upon mixture. In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
  • the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more.
  • the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition to the hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more.
  • the cosmetic composition has a suitable viscosity for application onto hair.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition at room temperature may be at least 1 ,000 mPa s, preferably at least 1,500 mPa s, more preferably at least 2,000 mPa-s.
  • the cosmetic composition may not be easily spread onto keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition may preferably have a viscosity of from 1,000 mPa-s to 2,800 mPa-s, preferably from 1,500 to 2,800 mPa-s, more preferably from 2,000 to 2,800 mPa-s.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be more than 5 times, preferably more than 10 times, more preferably more than 20 times, as high as the viscosities of the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both.
  • the cosmetic composition may have a suitable color and form to prepare a cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic composition may be in a form of liquid, gel, cream, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition may be macroscopically translucent or transparent, or macroscopically opaque.
  • the cosmetic composition is macroscopically translucent or transparent, more preferably macroscopically translucent.
  • "macroscopically translucent” is intended to mean that at least a part of visible light can penetrate through the object without being scattered or reflected.
  • "Macroscopically transparent” is intended to mean that a substantial part of visible light can penetrate through the object without being scattered or reflected.
  • “macroscopically opaque” is intended to mean that substantially all of visible light does not penetrate through the object.
  • the mixture upon mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition, the mixture forms a viscous solution.
  • the viscous solution may be liquid crystal, which may have a lamellar structure.
  • the cosmetic composition may also include various additives desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • various additives desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • dispersants, anti-oxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, neutralizing agents, fragrances, fillers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, UV filters, and sunscreens, and mixtures thereof can be added.
  • ingredients can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Fourteenth Edition (2012). Such additional ingredients, if any, may be present in the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both.
  • Examples of additional ingredients include water and/or one or more organic solvents.
  • Suitable organic solvents can be selected based on the intended use, and the organic solvent is preferably water-miscible.
  • organic solvents may include, but are not limited to: alcohols such as alcohol denat, benzyl alcohol, isopropylalcohol, ethyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as propylene glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propylene glycol monomethyl ether; analogous products thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvents and water may be used alone, or in combination two or more thereof.
  • the organic solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1 % to 60 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. t The organic solvent may be present in the alkali-containing composition, developer composition, or both.
  • the cosmetic composition is completely free of aqueous ammonia.
  • These substances may be selected variously by one skilled in the art to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
  • These additives may be present in the cosmetic composition in a proportion of from 0 % to 99 % by weight (such as from 0.01 % to 90 % by weight) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, or from 0.1 % to 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition (if present).
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, including: mixing the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition, to prepare a cosmetic composition; and applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be mixed in a container by, for example, stirring the compositions in the container or shaking the container.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition are mixed until the compositions are evenly mixed.
  • the mixing ratio (by weight) of the alkali-containing composition to the oxidizing composition is preferably from 1 :0.2 to 1 : 5.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the developer composition may be mixed for less than 5 min, preferably less than 1 miri.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition are mixed just prior to use.
  • the interval between the mixing and application to the keratin fibers may be less than 30 minutes.
  • the interval is less than 20 minutes, more preferably less than 10 minutes.
  • the resulting mixture, or a cosmetic composition may be applied to keratin fibers at a temperature of from 5 °C to 60 °C, preferably at room temperature.
  • the cosmetic composition is applied in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic composition is evenly spread on the desired areas of keratin fibers.
  • the amount of the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers may vary depending on factors such as the length and the volume of the keratin fibers, but the sufficient amount to change the color and obtain intended bleaching or coloring results of the keratin fibers is to apply the cosmetic composition such that the weight ratio of the keratin fibers to the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers is from 1 :0.05 to 1 :5.
  • the mixture may be left on the desired area(s) of keratin fibers for from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 40 minutes. Such time should be sufficient to change the color of the keratin fibers. Such time may be controlled depending on, for example, the original color, desired resulting color, or thickness of keratin fibers on which the resulting mixture is applied. -
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, shampooed, and then dried.
  • the keratin fibers are human keratin fibers such as hair.
  • One aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic kit, or a prepackaged product, for consumer use including the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition form a cosmetic composition that is desirably used for treating keratin fibers.
  • the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be contained in separate containers or a multi-compartment container, so that the alkali- containing composition and the oxidizing composition are stored separately from one another.
  • Such containers are intended to be opened by the user, and contents of which are mixed by the user to prepare a cosmetic composition just before use.
  • At least one of the containers containing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be equipped with one or more members that can be used to apply the cosmetic composition onto keratin fibers such as hair.
  • a member may include a nozzle and a comb. Users may mix the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition in the container having such a member, and directly apply the cosmetic composition formed in the container onto keratin fibers by using such a member.
  • Alkali-containing compositions of Sample i-1 to Sample i-7 were prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 1. Each of Samples i-1 to i-7 includes at least one polyol with varying amounts. Alkali-containing compositions of Sample i-8 to Sample i-14 that do not include a polyol were also prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 2 below.
  • benzyl alcohol, ethanol (if any), sodium metabisulfite (if any), cysteine, ethanolamine, ascorbic acid (if any), and EDTA were added to the mixture.
  • the mixture was then agitated until all ingredients were evenly and completely dissolved or distributed in the composition.
  • an oil phase was first prepared by mixing beheneth-10, isostearyl alcohol, mineral oil, and PEG- 150 distearate at a temperature of 70 °C.
  • a water phase was separately prepared by mixing tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium salicylate, and caprylyl/ capryl glucoside with hot water (70 °C) until they were completely dissolved in water.
  • oil phase means a phase containing fatty materials
  • water phase means a phase containing hydrophilic substances, in particular substances other than the substances constituting the oil phase.
  • the water phase was poured into the oil phase and agitated at 70 °C. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature. After cooling, hydrogen peroxide was added to the mixture, and the pH of the mixture was adjusted to 2.2 ⁇ 0.2 by using phosphoric acid.
  • Sample i-1 an alkali-containing composition including polyol (glycerin); and Sample i-8, an alkali-containing composition without polyol, was mixed with Sample ii with a brush by hands for 20 seconds at a ratio of 1 : 1.5 (by weight) to prepare a cosmetic composition.
  • Viscosities of Sample i-1 , i-8, and ii, and the mixtures of those Samples were measured by using Brookfield Viscometers at room temperature. The results were shown in Table 4.
  • the mixture of Sample i-1 and Sample ii had an adequate viscosity to easily apply and spread on the keratin fibers.
  • the viscosity of the mixture of Sample i-1 and Sample ii was sufficiently high so that the mixture stays on the desired areas of keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to change the hair color.
  • the viscosity of the mixture of Sample i-8 and Sample ii was too high to evenly spread on the desired areas of keratin fibers.
  • compositions thus prepared were applied onto, 1 gram of Chinese black hair swatch.
  • Table 5 shows that the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-2 to i-7, which contain a polyol, showed high miscibility with the oxidizing composition. Table 5 also shows that the mixtures prepared from the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-2 to i-7 had excellent physical properties to apply onto keratin fibers. On the other hand, the mixtures prepared from the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-9 to i- 14 were difficult to apply onto hair.
  • Samples i-1 to i-7 were prepared using different types and/or amounts of polyols. The comparison of the mixtures prepared from Samples i-2 to i-7 indicates that any types of polyols with varying amounts can be preferably used in the present invention.
  • the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers results from the mixture of: an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant; and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent, at least one fatty material. The amount of the fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS INCLUDING POLYOL
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, including a polyol.
BACKGROUND Two-agent type cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers, such as hair bleaching composition or permanent hair dye composition, have been widely used because of their high bleaching performance and long-lasting coloring performance. The two-agent type compositions are usually prepared by mixing a first agent containing an alkaline agent and a second agent containing an oxidizer. Users are intended to mix the first and the second agents just prior to use, and apply the mixture onto keratin fibers. Thus, each of the first and the second agents should have low viscosity so that they are easily admixed together, while the mixture of the first and the second agents has to have adequate viscosity so that the mixture stays on the desired areas of keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to bleach or color the keratin fibers.
Conventionally, ammonia has been commonly used as an alkaline agent of the two- agent type composition because of its high bleaching power. However, compositions containing ammonia gives off strong unpleasant odor while applying the composition on keratin fibers. When ammonia is replaced with organic amines such as monoethanolamine (MEA), malodor of ammonia may be reduced, but the bleaching power of the compositon is impaired.
One aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers having less offensive odor yet having strong bleaching power. The present invention also provides a two-agent type cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, in which both agents are easily mixed and the mixture has an adequate viscosity to stay on keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to change colors.
SUMMARY According to one aspect of the present invention, a composition for keratin fibers results from the mixture of: an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant; and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material. The amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the composition for keratin fibers is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
In one aspect, the alkaline agent is at least one of an organic base, an inorganic base, and a salt thereof. In one aspect, the alkaline agent is an alkanolamine. In one aspect, the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or a mixture thereof.
According to another aspect of the present invention, a method for treating keratin fibers includes: mixing an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material, to prepare a cosmetic composition; and applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers. The amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
According to another aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers is produced by a process including: mixing an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material. The amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1 -40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The cosmetic composition for keratin fibers includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers. The weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition for keratin fibers is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
According to another aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic kit includes: an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition. A mixture of the alkali-containing
composition and the oxidizing composition forms a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1 -40 wt%, preferably 0.5- 30 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition. The weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general descriptions and the following detailed descriptions are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.
DETAILED DISCRETION
Obviously, numerous modifications and variations of the present invention are possible in light of the above teachings. It is therefore to be understood that within the scope of the appended claims, the invention may be practiced otherwise than as specifically described herein.
As used herein, the term "hair" includes any keratin fibers, for example, living hair such as head hair, and non-living hair such as hair swatches, wigs, and extensions.
The viscosities indicated in this specification and in the claims are measured in a
Brookfield viscometer (Shibaura system, VS-A1) at room temperature, unless otherwise indicated. As used herein, the term "room temperature" indicates that the temperature is not critical and that no exact temperature has to be maintained. Generally, "room temperature" is understood to mean temperatures ranging from about 15 °C to about 27 °C.
As used herein, "total weight (amount) of the alkali-containing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the weight (amount) of all components, compounds, or ingredients that constitute the alkali-containing composition. "Total weight (amount) of the oxidizing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the weight (amount) of all components, compounds, or ingredients that constitute the oxidizing composition. Further, "total weight (amount) of the cosmetic composition (for keratin fibers)" means the sum of the weight (amount) of all components, compounds, or ingredients of the cosmetic composition. It is generally understood that, when the cosmetic composition is prepared from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition only, the "total weight (amount) of the cosmetic composition (for keratin fibers)" is equal to the sum of the "total weight (amount) of the alkali-containing composition" and the "total weight (amount) of the oxidizing composition."
According to one aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers results from the mixture of: (i) an alkali-containing composition including at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and (ii) an oxidizing composition including at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material.
(i) Alkali-containing composition
(Alkaline agent)
The alkali-containing composition includes at least one alkaline agent. The at least one alkaline agent may be organic or inorganic, or a mixture of an organic and inorganic alkaline agents. The at least one alkaline agent is preferably selected from organic bases, salts of organic bases, inorganic bases, and salts of inorganic bases. Such alkaline agents may be used individually, or can be mixed with different kind of alkaline agents.
The first example of the alkaline agent is organic bases. Examples of organic bases may include organic amines and pyridines. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is chosen from: monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; amino acids; oligomers of amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
The organic bases may be organic amines, including alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, or trialkanolamines, including one to three identical or different Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals. Examples of the alkanolamines may include, but are not limited to,
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine,
diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l ,2-propanediol, 3- dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
The at least one alkaline agent may be at least one alkanolamine. Preferably, the alkanolamine is chosen from monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol.
Mixtures of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2 -methyl- 1 -propanol may also be utilized as the alkaline agent. In at least one embodiment, the alkaline agent is selected from alkalnoamines, and is particularly monoethanolamine.
The at least one alkaline agent may be an organic amine having the formula below:
Rx Rz
\ /
N— W— N
Ry / \ Rt in which W is a Ci-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group of a
Ci-Ce alkyl radical, and Rx, Ry, Rz, and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, C\-Ce hydroxyalkyl radical or C C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such organic amines may include, but are not limited to, 1 ,3- diaminopropane, l ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.
The organic amine may be chosen from amino acids including, but not limited to, arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, and citrulline. The second example of the alkaline agent is salts of the organic bases described above. The at least one alkaline agent may include a salt of the organic amines described above. Salts of the organic bases may be organic or inorganic salts. The organic salts may be chosen from the salts of organic acids such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, and tartrates. The inorganic salts may be chosen from hydrohalides such as hydrochlorides, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and phosphates.
The third example of the alkaline agent is inorganic bases. Examples of the inorganic bases may include, but are not limited to, alkaline metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkaline metal (hydrogen)carbonates, alkaline earth metal
(hydrogen)carbonates, alkaline metal metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of inorganic bases include, but are not limited to, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, sodium metasilicate, and potassium metasilicate.
The alkali-containing composition may include a small amount of aqueous ammonia. Preferably, the alkali-containing composition does not include aqueous ammonia as the alkaline agent. In such ammonia-free compositions, at least one alkanolamine, such as monoethanolamine, may be included as the alkaline agent.
The amount of the alkaline agent in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 0.01 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10 % by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
The amount of the alkaline agent may be controlled so that the amount is from 0.05 % to 15 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 10 % by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 8 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
(Surfactant)
The alkali-containing composition includes at least one surfactant. The at least one surfactant may be nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric; and may also be organic or inorganic, preferably organic. The surfactant may be used either singly or in combination two or more thereof.
The at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant. For example, the alkali-containing composition may include one nonionic surfactant; or may include two, three, or more of different types of nonionic surfactants.
Various types of nonionic surfactant that are suitable for cosmetic or dermatological use may be used. Examples of nonionic surfactants are described (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Suitable nonionic surfactants can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain including, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides including, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides including, for example, from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4;
ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan including from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
ethoxylated oils from plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol; (C6-C24)alkylpolyglucosides; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C1o-C14)alkylamine oxides or N- (C1o-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.
The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from oxyalkylenated
(monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated), and glycerolated (monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated) nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include: oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
oxyalkylenated C8- C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols, polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, oxyalkylenated plant oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.
The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include any oxypropylene units.
According to one aspect of the invention, preferably, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters, preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (i.e. polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohols).
Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols , preferably C8-C30 fatty alcohol's, that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 10 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with decyl alcohol, especially those containing from 3 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Deceth-3 to Deceth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Oleth-9 to Oleth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-9 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Ceteareth-10 to Ceteareth-50, such as Ceteareth-33, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (e.g., Ceteth-10 to Ceteth-30, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50
oxyethylene groups (e.g., Steareth-10 to Steareth-30, such as Steareth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Isosteareth-10 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are represented by the following formula:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH20]m-H
in which R is a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m is a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
Alkyl polyglucosides that are preferably used in the present invention may include those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 glucoside units. Examples of alkyl polyglucosides may include, but are not limited to, decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9/Cl 1- polyglucoside (1.4)) for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10®, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP®, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10®; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110®; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N® and Plantacare 1200®; and cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP®. The alkyl polyglucosides may be used alone, or in combination with different alkyl polyglucosides.
Among the nonionic surfactants, polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are preferred. The at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may be polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol. Preferred polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol may include polyoxyethylenated C8-C3o fatty alcohol, preferably C8-C2o fatty alcohol, preferably with 1 to 30 oxyethylene units. Alternatively, the at least one surfactant in the alkali-containing composition may be alkyl polyglucoside. The combinations of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and alkyl polyglucoside may also be used.
The alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactant. Various types of anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants that are suitably used in cosmetic or dermatologic compositions may be utilized.
The alkali-containing composition may include at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one cationic surfactant. The cationic surfactant may be selected from, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, alkyl quarternary ammonium salt, for example chloride an4 methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl- dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
The alkali-containing composition may include, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and tri-ester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts, useful examples may include, but are not limited to, tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and
benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70.
According to one aspect of the present invention, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3- dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
Preferably, the weight amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is same as, or greater than, that of the cationic surfactant in the alkali- containing composition. For example, the amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali- containing composition may be more than 10 times, or more than 15 times, of the amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition.
The amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 5 to 80 % by weight, more preferably from 25 to 70 % by weight, even more preferably from 30 to 55 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. Here, "amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, contained in the alkali-containing composition. The amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 25 to 70 % by weight, more preferably from 30 to 55 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. Here, "amount of nonionic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the nonionic surfactants contained in the alkali-containing composition.
The amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is preferably less than 30 % by weight, more preferably less than 10 % by weight, even more preferably less than 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. Here, "amount of cationic surfactant in the alkali-containing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the cationic surfactants contained in the alkali- containing composition.
Preferably, the amount of surfactant in the alkali-containing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition is from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, and amphoteric surfactants, contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali- containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
Surfactants are often classified according to the balance between the size and strength of its hydrophilic group and the size and strength of its lipophilic group. Such balance is referred to as the emulsifier's Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) value. A surfactant that is lipophilic in character is assigned a low HLB number (below about 9) and one that is hydrophilic in character is assigned a high HLB number (above about 11). A general discussion of the HLB classification system for emulsifiers can be found in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" published in 1984 by ICI Americas, Inc., Wilmington, DE. In the present invention, the HLB value pf the surfactant is not limited.
(Polyol)
The alkali-containing composition may include at least one polyol that are defined below. The alkali-containing composition may include a single type of the polyol, or a combination two or more thereof. The polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition such as surfactant, fatty material, and organic solvents as defined below.
The amount of polyol in the alkali-containing composition, if any, may be 0 or from 0.05 to 60 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition.
The amount of polyol in the alkali-containing composition is preferably controlled so that the amount of the polyols in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of polyol in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all polyols contained in the cosmetic composition.
(Fatty material)
The alkali-containing composition may further include at least one fatty material that is defined below. The fatty material that can be employed in the oxidizing composition as described below may also be included in the alkali-containing composition. The alkali- containing composition may include a single type of fatty material, or a combination two or more thereof.
The amount of fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is preferably from 1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. Here, "amount of fatty material in the alkali-containing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the alkali-containing composition.
Preferably, the amount of the fatty material in the alkali-containing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight relative to the, total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
(Dye)
The alkali-containing composition may further include at least one oxidative dye, at least one direct dye, or a mixture thereof. The direct dye may be an anionic dye, a nonionic dye, or a cationic dye. When oxidative dye and/or direct dye are included, the cosmetic composition may work as a hair color composition. Without oxidative dye and/or direct dye, the cosmetic composition may work as a hair bleach composition.
The oxidative dyes can be utilized alone or in combination with different kinds of oxidative dyes. The oxidative dyes can be activated and can react with other molecules to form colored complexes which deliver permanent colors to hair. The oxidative dye may include oxidation bases and couplers.
The alkali-containing composition may include at least one oxidative dye. The oxidative dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
The oxidation bases are selected from, for example, paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, Ν,Ν-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 4- N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P- hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro- para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropylpara-phenylenediamine, N-( -hydroxypropyl)-para- phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3 -methyl- paraphenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-( -hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, Ν-(β,γ- dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N- phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β- acetylaminoethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethylamino-5- aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)-pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, para- tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2- -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloropara- phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are Ν,Ν' -bis^-hydroxyethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -aminophenyl)- 1 ,3 -diaminopropanol, Ν,Ν' -bis(P- hydroxyethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -amino phenyl)ethylenediamine, Ν,Ν' -bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis( -hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,N,N' -bis(ethyl)-N,N' -bis(4' -amino-3 ' - methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol,4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phe ol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenoland 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof. Other pyridine oxidation bases that may be utilized include the 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo [ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3 -aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine-2- carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l, 5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid- 7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3 -aminopyrazolo [1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6- diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5- a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,pyrazolo[l,5- a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3- aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hyckoxyethyl)amino]ethanol,2-[(3-arninopyrazolo[ 1 ,5- a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3- aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyridin-6-ol and 3- aminopyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, and the addition salts thereof. Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169 571 ; JP 05-63124; EP 0 770 375 or patent application W096/15765, for instance 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy- 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in DE 3 843 892 and DE 4 133 957, and WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance, 4,5-diamino-l -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l -(β- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l ,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l -phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l - methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1 ,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5- diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l -tert- butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l -( -hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l - ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,4,5-diamino-l- ethyl-3 -hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5 -diamino-3 -hydroxymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5 - diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4- amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl - 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4- (P-hydroxyethyl)amino-l -methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-l-(P- methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
A heterocyclic base that may also be used is 2,3-diamino-6,7- dihydro-lH,5H- pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one or a salt thereof.
The alkali-containing composition may optionally include one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those used in the dyeing of keratin fibers. Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenebased couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof. Mention may be made, for example, of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy- 2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4- diamino-l-^- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino) 1 -methoxybenzene, 1,3- diaminobenzene, 1 ,3 -bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3 -ureidoaniline, 3 -ureido- 1 - dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4 methylenedioxybenzene, a- naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N- methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6- dimethoxypyridine, 1 -N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis( - hydroxyethylamino)toluene,6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1 -H-3- methylpyrazo-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4- triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that may be used are especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
If present, the amount of the oxidation base(s) is controlled so that each oxidation base is present from 0.0001 % by weight to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and preferably from 0.005 % by weight to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
If present, the amount of the coupler(s) is controlled so that each coupler is present from 0.0001 % by weight to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and preferably from 0.005 % by weight to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Any combinations of the oxidation bases and couplers may be utilized. Generally, the combinations of the oxidation bases and couplers determine the color of the complex of these molecules, which then determine the resulting color of the hair.
The alkali-containing composition may be in the form suitable for preparing cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers, including, but not limited to, liquid, cream, gel, and paste. In one embodiment, the alkali-containing composition is in a liquid form at room temperature. Preferably, the viscosity of the alkali-containing composition is sufficiently low so that the alkali-containing composition can be readily mixed with the oxidizing composition. The viscosity of the alkali-containing composition may be less than 500 mPa' S before being mixed with the oxidizing composition. Preferably, the viscosity of the alkali-containing composition is less than 500 mPa-s, preferably from 5 mPa s to 300 mPa s, more preferably from 10 mPa-s to 200 mPa-s, before being mixed with the oxidizing composition.
(ii) Oxidizing composition
(Oxidizing agent)
The oxidizing composition includes at least one oxidizing agent. Various oxidizing agents that may be desirably used for cosmetic or dermatological compositions may be utilized. The oxidizing agents may facilitate dispersion and/or solubilization of natural pigments in keratin fibers, or melanin, and catalyze the oxidation of the oxidative dyes.
The oxidizing agent may be chosen from peroxides, persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, peracids, bromates, and salts and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxidizing agent may include, but are not limited to, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxigenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, alkali metal or alkali earth metal percatbonates, and also peracids and precursors thereof.
The oxidizing agent may be chosen from, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, and alkali metal bromates.
The oxidizing agent can be used alone or in combination with different types of oxidizing agents.
The amount of the oxidizing agent may be from 0.05 to 15 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 12 % by weight, more preferably from 1 to 12 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
Preferably, the amount of the oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition is controlled so that the amount may be from 0.1 to 12 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 9 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
(Fatty material)
The oxidizing composition includes at least one fatty material. The fatty material may be used singly, or two or more different types of fatty materials may be used in combination. As used herein, the term "fatty material" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5 %, preferably 1 % and even more preferably 0.1 %). The fatty material may include, in its structure, at least one sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty material may be soluble in organic solvents, for instance, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The fatty material may be in the form of a liquid or a solid. Here, "liquid" and "solid" mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid), or solid, respectively, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. It is preferable that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste, more preferably in the form of a liquid, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The fatty material may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and fluoro oils, preferably from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, more preferably from hydrocarbon oils. The fatty material may be, for example: nonsilicone oils such as mineral, plant, animal, or synthetic oils; nonsilicone waxes; silicones; lower alkanes; fatty acids; fatty alcohols; fatty acid esters; and fatty alcohol esters. Preferably, the fatty material is chosen from
hydrocarbon oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and silicones. More preferably, the fatty material is chosen from oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and silicone oils. As used herein, "oil" means any fatty material that is not in a solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The fatty material may be volatile or non-volatile.
Preferably, the fatty material does not include salified carboxylic acid groups. In particular, the fatty material is not a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated ether.
The fatty materials may be nonsilicone oils such as mineral, plant, animal, or f synthetic oils. Examples of plant oil may include, but are not limited to, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of animal oil may include, but are not limited to, squalene,
perhydrosqualene and squalane. Synthetic glycerides such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, including those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 may also be used.
The fatty acids that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may have at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group (such as 1 to 4). The fatty acids may be unsaturated fatty acids which may include one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. Specific examples of fatty acids may include, but are not limited to, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and isostearic acid.
The fatty alcohols that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and may contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples of fatty alcohols may include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the mixture thereof (such as cetylstearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol. Such fatty alcohols may be used alone, or in combination with different fatty alcohol.
The fatty material may also be nonsilicone wax. As used herein, "wax" means the fatty material that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and has a melting point of, for example, 35 °C or higher. Examples of nonsilicone wax may include, but are not limited to: plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax esparto grass wax, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin; mineral waxes such as paraffin wax or ozokerite; animal waxes such as beeswax or rnodified beeswax (such as carabellina); and synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (such as the wax sold under the name
PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE by the company New Phase Technologies).
The esters may be of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Q-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C!-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Examples of monoesters may include, but are not limited to, dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
In the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and esters of C!-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and esters of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
The followings may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl
tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The composition may also include, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. As used herein, the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars may include, but are not limited to, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o, preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. The unsaturated fatty acids may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be selected from, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, in particular, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate mixed esters.
Examples of monoesters and diesters may include, but are not limited to, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO, which is a methylglucose dioleate, by the company Amerchol.
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid may include, but are not limited to:
- the products sold under the names Crodesta® F160, F140, Fl 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Croda, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27 % diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 52 % monoester and 48 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 45 % monoester and 55 % diester, triester and tetraester, from 39 % monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGER ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20 % monoester and 80 % di- triester-polyester; and
- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the name TEGOSOFT® PSE.
The silicones that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with
9
organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10" to 2.5 m /s at 25 °C.
The silicones that may be used in the alkali-containing composition may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins, or gums. Preferably, the silicones are in the form of oils.
Examples of silicones may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes including at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups, and alkoxy groups. The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.
Examples of volatile silicones may include, but are not limited to, those having a boiling point ranging from 60 °C to 260 °C, including: cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 or 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or SILBIONE® 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
Figure imgf000023_0001
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra- trimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3 ,3 '-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane.
Another example of volatile silicone includes linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10 m Is at
25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics."
Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins,
polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
Examples of silicones may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25° C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting mariner, of the following commercial products:
- the SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm /s; and
- the VISCASIL® oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C2o)dialkylsiloxanes.
Examples of silicone gums may include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular masses ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. Exemplary solvent include, but are not limited to, volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,
polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffms, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of mixtures may include, but are not limited to:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as , the product SF 1214 SILICONE FLUID from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 SILICONE FLUID corresponding to
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; and
- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, including mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m2/s, and an SF 96 oil, with a viscosity of 5>< 10 /s. This product may include 15% SE 30 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.
The organopolysiloxane resins include crosslinked siloxane systems having the following units:
R2Si02/2, R3Si01/2, RSi03 2 and Si04/2
where R represents a hydrocarbon-based group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. R may be a Ci- C4 lower alkyl radical, such as methyl.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type resins sold, for instance, under the names X22-4914, X21-5034, and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu Silicones.
The organomodified silicones are silicones as described above and including in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
Besides the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be
polydiarylsiloxanes, including polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
functionalized with organofunctional groups.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from linear and/or branched
polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from l x lO"5 to 5xlO'2 m2/s at 25 °C.
Examples of polyalkylarylsiloxanes may include, but are not limited to, the products sold under the following names:
- the SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the RHODOURSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia; - the oil Dow Corning® 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning; and
- certain oils of the SF series from the qompany General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes including:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; and - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee Polymers, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING® 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
The fatty material may be used either singly or in combination two or more thereof. The fatty material in the alkali-containing composition may include hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil. As used herein, "hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil" is intended to mean hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, or a mixture thereof. The hydrocarbon oil may be an oil of plant, animal, mineral, or synthetic origin, or a mixture thereof.
Examples of hydrocarbon oil of animal origin may include squalane and squalene. Examples of hydrocarbon oils of plant origin may include sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, abovado oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil. Examples of hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin may include liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as PARLEAM®. Among the hydrocarbon oils, mineral oils are preferred.
Examples of silicone oil may include, but are not limited to, linear
organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes,
methylhydrogonpolysiloxanes, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is from 10 % to 50 % by weight, more preferably from 20 % to 40 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. Here, "amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the oxidizing composition.
» Preferably, the amount of the hydrocarbon oil in the oxidizing composition is at most 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. Preferably, the amount of the mineral oil in the oxidizing composition is at most 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
The amount of the fatty material in the oxidizing composition is preferably controlled so that the amount of fatty materials in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of fatty materials in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the fatty materials contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
(Polyol)
The oxidizing composition may include at least one polyol that is defined below. The oxidizing composition may include a single polyol, or a combination two or more thereof.
The polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition, such as surfactant and fatty material as defined above, or organic solvents as defined below.
The amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition, if any, may be 0 or from 0.05 to 60 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. Here, "amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the polyols contained in the oxidizing composition.
The amount of polyol in the oxidizing composition is controlled so that the amount of the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the polyols contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
(Surfactant)
The oxidizing composition may include at least one surfactant. Any surfactants, including nonionic, anionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactants, which may be included in the alkali-containing composition as described above may also be used in the oxidizing composition.
The amount of the surfactant in the oxidizing composition is preferably from 0.1 to
15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. Here, "amount of surfactant in the oxidizing composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants contained in the oxidizing composition. Preferably, the amount of the surfactant in the oxidizing composition is adjusted so that the amount of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition is from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of the surfactants contained in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount in weight of all the surfactants contained in the cosmetic composition resulting from the mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition.
(iii) Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers According to one aspect of the present invention, a cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition just prior to be applied onto the desired areas of keratin fibers. The interval between the mixing and application to the keratin fibers may be less than 30 minutes. Preferably, the interval is less than 20 minutes, more preferably less than 10 minutes.
For practical reasons, the mixing ratio (by weight) of the alkali-containing composition and the developer composition is preferably from 1 :0.2 to 1 :5, more preferably from 1 :0.5 to 1 :3.
The cosmetic composition prepared by mixing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition includes at least one alkaline agent, at least one surfactant, at least one oxidizing agent, at least one fatty material, and at least one polyol. Each of the alkaline agent, surfactant, oxidizing agent, fatty material, and polyol may derive from the alkali-containing composition, the oxidizing composition, or both. The cosmetic composition may include a small amount of aqueous ammonia. However, the cosmetic composition preferably does not include aqueous ammonia.
(Polyol)
According to one aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic composition includes at least one polyol. As used herein, the term "polyol" denotes a compound having more than one hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Preferably, "polyol" denotes a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsatulated alkyl group having more than one hydroxyl (- OH) groups (i.e., polyhydroxyalkyl compound), as well as a polymer of such polyhydroxyalkyl compounds. In contrast, the term "monool" is intended to mean a compound having one hydroxyl group. Any polyols that are desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions may be employed in the present invention.
Suitable polyols preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Examples of such polyols may include, but are not limited to: glycerin (or glycerine, glycerol); alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol; polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols; sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol; sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as, for example, glucose or sucrose and aminosugars such as, for example, glucamine; and monosaccharide sugars containing less than 5 carbon atoms such as dihydroxyacetone.
Examples of preferred polyols include, but are not limited to, glycerin, sorbitol, dihydroxyacetone, sucrose, polyethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol, monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and a mixture thereof.
The polyol does not form part of other components of the cosmetic composition such as surfactant and fatty material as defined above, or organic solvents as defined below.
The polyol in the cosmetic composition may be contained in the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both, before cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition. Preferably, the amount of polyol contained in the alkali-containing composition is equal to, or greater than, that contained in the oxidizing composition. For example, the alkali-containing
composition may include the polyol in an amount of from 0.1 to 50 % by weight, preferably from 1 to 45 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkali-containing composition. In one embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing composition may not include Jhe polyol.
The amount of the polyol in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.1 to 40 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
(Surfactant) The cosmetic composition includes at least one surfactant. The surfactant in the cosmetic composition may derive from the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both. That is, the surfactant in the cosmetic composition may include the at least one surfactant derived from the alkali-containing composition, and any other surfactants that may be contained in the oxidizing composition.
The amount of the at least one surfactant in the cosmetic composition is from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Preferably, the amount of nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition is from 10 % by weight to 50 % by weight, more preferably from 15 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition may further include from 0.1 % to 10 % by weight, preferably from 1 % to 5 % by weight, of cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactant, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
(Fatty material)
The cosmetic composition includes at least one fatty material. The fatty material in the cosmetic composition may derive from the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both. That is, the fatty material in the cosmetic composition may include the at least one fatty material derived from the oxidizing composition, and any other fatty materials that may be contained in the alkali-containing composition.
The amount of the at least one fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 5 to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition may include, as the fatty material, hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil. When the cosmetic composition includes hydrocarbon oil and/or silicone oil, the amount of hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition may be at least 10 % by weight, preferably at least 15 % by weight, more preferably at least 17 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Here, "amount of hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition" is intended to mean the sum of the amount of the hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil included in the alkali-containing composition and the developer composition.
The amount of mineral oil in the cosmetic composition may be at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic
composition. In the cosmetic composition, the weight ratio of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more. Preferably, the weight ratio of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic
composition does not exceed three, preferably two, even more preferably 1.3. If the weight ratio of the surfactants to the fatty materials is less than 0.1, the cosmetic composition may not have a sufficient viscosity upon mixture. In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the surfactants in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
Preferably, in the cosmetic composition, the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition to the fatty materials in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more. Also, in the cosmetic composition, the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition to the hydrocarbon oil and silicone oil in the cosmetic composition may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, even more preferably 0.7 or more.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition has a suitable viscosity for application onto hair. The viscosity of the cosmetic composition at room temperature may be at least 1 ,000 mPa s, preferably at least 1,500 mPa s, more preferably at least 2,000 mPa-s. When the viscosity of the cosmetic composition exceeds 2,800 mPa-s, the cosmetic composition may not be easily spread onto keratin fibers. Thus, the cosmetic composition may preferably have a viscosity of from 1,000 mPa-s to 2,800 mPa-s, preferably from 1,500 to 2,800 mPa-s, more preferably from 2,000 to 2,800 mPa-s.
The viscosity of the cosmetic composition may be more than 5 times, preferably more than 10 times, more preferably more than 20 times, as high as the viscosities of the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both.
The cosmetic composition may have a suitable color and form to prepare a cosmetic product. For example, the cosmetic composition may be in a form of liquid, gel, cream, and the like. The cosmetic composition may be macroscopically translucent or transparent, or macroscopically opaque. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is macroscopically translucent or transparent, more preferably macroscopically translucent. As used herein, "macroscopically translucent" is intended to mean that at least a part of visible light can penetrate through the object without being scattered or reflected. "Macroscopically transparent" is intended to mean that a substantial part of visible light can penetrate through the object without being scattered or reflected. Further, "macroscopically opaque" is intended to mean that substantially all of visible light does not penetrate through the object.
Preferably, upon mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition, the mixture forms a viscous solution. The viscous solution may be liquid crystal, which may have a lamellar structure.
(Additional ingredients)
The cosmetic composition may also include various additives desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. For example, dispersants, anti-oxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, neutralizing agents, fragrances, fillers, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, UV filters, and sunscreens, and mixtures thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such
ingredients can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Fourteenth Edition (2012). Such additional ingredients, if any, may be present in the alkali-containing composition, oxidizing composition, or both.
Examples of additional ingredients include water and/or one or more organic solvents. Suitable organic solvents can be selected based on the intended use, and the organic solvent is preferably water-miscible. Examples of organic solvents may include, but are not limited to: alcohols such as alcohol denat, benzyl alcohol, isopropylalcohol, ethyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycols or glycol ethers such as propylene glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and propylene glycol monomethyl ether; analogous products thereof; and mixtures thereof. The organic solvents and water may be used alone, or in combination two or more thereof.
The organic solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1 % to 60 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. tThe organic solvent may be present in the alkali-containing composition, developer composition, or both.
One skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is completely free of aqueous ammonia.
These substances may be selected variously by one skilled in the art to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. These additives may be present in the cosmetic composition in a proportion of from 0 % to 99 % by weight (such as from 0.01 % to 90 % by weight) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, or from 0.1 % to 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition (if present).
(Process)
One aspect of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, including: mixing the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition, to prepare a cosmetic composition; and applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers.
The alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be mixed in a container by, for example, stirring the compositions in the container or shaking the container. Preferably, the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition are mixed until the compositions are evenly mixed.
For practical reasons, the mixing ratio (by weight) of the alkali-containing composition to the oxidizing composition is preferably from 1 :0.2 to 1 : 5.
The alkali-containing composition and the developer composition may be mixed for less than 5 min, preferably less than 1 miri.
Preferably, the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition are mixed just prior to use. The interval between the mixing and application to the keratin fibers may be less than 30 minutes. Preferably, the interval is less than 20 minutes, more preferably less than 10 minutes.
The resulting mixture, or a cosmetic composition, may be applied to keratin fibers at a temperature of from 5 °C to 60 °C, preferably at room temperature. The cosmetic composition is applied in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition is evenly spread on the desired areas of keratin fibers. The amount of the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers may vary depending on factors such as the length and the volume of the keratin fibers, but the sufficient amount to change the color and obtain intended bleaching or coloring results of the keratin fibers is to apply the cosmetic composition such that the weight ratio of the keratin fibers to the cosmetic composition applied to the keratin fibers is from 1 :0.05 to 1 :5. The mixture may be left on the desired area(s) of keratin fibers for from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 40 minutes. Such time should be sufficient to change the color of the keratin fibers. Such time may be controlled depending on, for example, the original color, desired resulting color, or thickness of keratin fibers on which the resulting mixture is applied. -
After the application of the mixture, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, shampooed, and then dried.
Preferably, the keratin fibers are human keratin fibers such as hair.
(Kit)
One aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic kit, or a prepackaged product, for consumer use including the aforementioned (i) alkali-containing composition and (ii) oxidizing composition. Upon mixture, the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition form a cosmetic composition that is desirably used for treating keratin fibers. The alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be contained in separate containers or a multi-compartment container, so that the alkali- containing composition and the oxidizing composition are stored separately from one another. Such containers are intended to be opened by the user, and contents of which are mixed by the user to prepare a cosmetic composition just before use.
At least one of the containers containing the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition may be equipped with one or more members that can be used to apply the cosmetic composition onto keratin fibers such as hair. Examples of such a member may include a nozzle and a comb. Users may mix the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition in the container having such a member, and directly apply the cosmetic composition formed in the container onto keratin fibers by using such a member.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements.
EXAMPLES (i) Alkali-containing composition
Alkali-containing compositions of Sample i-1 to Sample i-7 were prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 1. Each of Samples i-1 to i-7 includes at least one polyol with varying amounts. Alkali-containing compositions of Sample i-8 to Sample i-14 that do not include a polyol were also prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 2 below.
Table 1 (alkali-containing compositions)
Figure imgf000036_0001
Table 2 (alkali-containing compositions)
Figure imgf000037_0001
To prepare the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-1 to i-14, oleyl alcohol, oleth-30, oleth-10, deceth-3, behentrimonium chloride (if any), PEG-20 (if any), polyol (glycerin, sorbitol, dihydroxyacetone, sucrose, or propylene glycol) (if any), and mineral oil were first mixed at a temperature of 70 °C. Hot water (70 °C) was poured into the mixture and agitated for 10 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature. After cooling, benzyl alcohol, ethanol (if any), sodium metabisulfite (if any), cysteine, ethanolamine, ascorbic acid (if any), and EDTA were added to the mixture. The mixture was then agitated until all ingredients were evenly and completely dissolved or distributed in the composition.
(ii) Oxidizing composition
An oxidizing composition of Sample ii was prepared by using the ingredients shown in Table 3.
Table 3 (oxidizing composition)
Figure imgf000038_0001
To prepare the oxidizing composition, an oil phase was first prepared by mixing beheneth-10, isostearyl alcohol, mineral oil, and PEG- 150 distearate at a temperature of 70 °C.
A water phase was separately prepared by mixing tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium salicylate, and caprylyl/ capryl glucoside with hot water (70 °C) until they were completely dissolved in water. Here, "oil phase" means a phase containing fatty materials, while "water phase" means a phase containing hydrophilic substances, in particular substances other than the substances constituting the oil phase. The water phase was poured into the oil phase and agitated at 70 °C. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature. After cooling, hydrogen peroxide was added to the mixture, and the pH of the mixture was adjusted to 2.2±0.2 by using phosphoric acid.
Each of: Sample i-1, an alkali-containing composition including polyol (glycerin); and Sample i-8, an alkali-containing composition without polyol, was mixed with Sample ii with a brush by hands for 20 seconds at a ratio of 1 : 1.5 (by weight) to prepare a cosmetic composition.
Viscosities of Sample i-1 , i-8, and ii, and the mixtures of those Samples were measured by using Brookfield Viscometers at room temperature. The results were shown in Table 4.
Table 4
Figure imgf000039_0001
The mixture of Sample i-1 and Sample ii had an adequate viscosity to easily apply and spread on the keratin fibers. The viscosity of the mixture of Sample i-1 and Sample ii was sufficiently high so that the mixture stays on the desired areas of keratin fibers for a sufficient amount of time to change the hair color. On the other hand, the viscosity of the mixture of Sample i-8 and Sample ii was too high to evenly spread on the desired areas of keratin fibers.
Each of Samples i-2 to i-7 and i-9 to i-14 was also mixed with Sample ii at a ratio of 1 :1 (by weight) to prepare cosmetic compositions. Three grams of the cosmetic
compositions thus prepared were applied onto, 1 gram of Chinese black hair swatch.
Miscibility, or ease of mixing, of alkali-containing composition and oxidizing composition was evaluated by three experienced researchers. Application easiness of each mixture was also evaluated by three experienced researchers. The evaluation results of miscibility and application easiness were shown in Table 5 below, in which: (+++) indicates
"excellent"; (++) indicates "good"; and (+) indicates "bad."
As a holistic evaluation, whether the compositions of each Sample are commercially acceptable was determined. The results were shown in Table 5. "Usable" indicates that the composition was commercially acceptable as a cosmetic product, while "Unusable" indicates that the composition was not commercially acceptable. "Thick" indicates that the viscosity of the composition of each Sample was too high to spread on the hair swatch. "Thin" indicates that the composition of each Sample was too low to stay on the hair swatch after application.
Table 5
Figure imgf000040_0001
Table 5 shows that the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-2 to i-7, which contain a polyol, showed high miscibility with the oxidizing composition. Table 5 also shows that the mixtures prepared from the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-2 to i-7 had excellent physical properties to apply onto keratin fibers. On the other hand, the mixtures prepared from the alkali-containing compositions of Samples i-9 to i- 14 were difficult to apply onto hair.
The comparisons of the mixtures prepared from Samples i-2 and i-10, and Samples i-3 and i-11, respectively, show that the polyol (glycerin) provides desirable miscibility of alkali-containing composition and oxidizing composition, and enhances the application easiness of the resulting mixture, as compared to the monool compound (ethanol). Such results can also be confirmed by the comparisons of the mixtures prepared from Samples i-4 and i-13, and Samples i-6 and i-13, respectively.
Samples i-1 to i-7 were prepared using different types and/or amounts of polyols. The comparison of the mixtures prepared from Samples i-2 to i-7 indicates that any types of polyols with varying amounts can be preferably used in the present invention.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
As used herein, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the content clearly indicates otherwise. It will further understood that the terms "comprising," including," and variants thereof, when used in this specification, specify the presence of stated features, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence of addition of one or more other features, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers resulting from the mixture of:
an alkali-containing composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant; and
an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition,
wherein
the cosmetic composition comprises
at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the cosmetic composition,
at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
2. The composition of Claim 1, wherein the polyol comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, dihydroxyacetone, sucrose, polyethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol.
3. The composition of Claim 1 or 2, wherein the surfactant in the alkali-containing composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
4. The composition of Claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant in the alkali- containing composition comprises polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol, alkyl polyglucoside, or a mixture thereof.
5. The composition of Claim 4, wherein the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol is polyoxyethylenated C8-C3o fatty alcohol, preferably polyoxyethylenated C8-C20 fatty alcohol, preferably with 1 to 30 oxyethylene units.
6. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the alkali-containing composition comprises the polyol in an amount of from 0.1 to 50 wt%, preferably from 1 to 45 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the alkali-containing composition.
7. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the alkaline agent is at least one alkaline agent selected from the group consisting of an organic base, an inorganic base, and a salt thereof.
8. The composition of Claim 7, wherein the alkaline agent is an alkanolamine.
9. The composition of Claim 8, wherein the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine, 2- amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or a mixture thereof.
10. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the alkali-containing composition comprises the alkaline agent in an amount of from 0.1 to 10 wt%, preferably from 1 to 10 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the alkali-containing composition.
11. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the alkali-containing composition comprises the surfactant in an amount of from 25 to 70 wt%, preferably from 30 to 55 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the alkali-containing composition.
12. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the oxidizing agent comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of a peroxide, a persulfate, a perborate, a percarbonate, a peracid, a bromate, and a salt thereof.
13. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the oxidizing composition comprises the oxidizing agent in an amount of from 0.1 to 12 wt%, preferably from 1 to 12 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition.
14. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the fatty material comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, and a mixture thereof.
15. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein the alkali-containing composition further comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
16. The composition of any one of Claims 1 to 15, wherein the alkali-containing composition further comprises an oxidative dye, a direct dye, or a mixture thereof.
17. A method for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
mixing an alkali-containing composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition, to prepare a cosmetic composition; and applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers in an amount sufficient to change a color of the keratin fibers,
wherein
the cosmetic composition comprises
at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the cosmetic composition,
at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
18. A cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, produced by a process comprising: mixing an alkali-containing composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant, and an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the oxidizing composition,
wherein
the cosmetic composition comprises at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition,
at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
19. A cosmetic kit comprising:
an alkali-containing composition comprising at least one alkaline agent and at least one surfactant; and
an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one fatty material in an amount of 10-50 wt%, preferably 20-40 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the oxidizing composition,
wherein
a mixture of the alkali-containing composition and the oxidizing composition forms a cosmetic composition,
the cosmetic composition comprises
at least one polyol in a weight amount of 0.1-40 wt%, preferably 0.5-30 wt%, relative to a total weight amount of the cosmetic composition,
at least one surfactant in a weight amount of 15-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
at least one fatty material in a weight amount of 5-30 wt% relative to the total weight amount of the cosmetic composition, and
the weight ratio of the surfactant to the fatty material in the cosmetic composition is from 0.3 to 2.0, preferably from 0.7 to 1.3.
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