WO2016030851A1 - Gel/gel composition containing an anti-perspirant active agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled by at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one anti-perspirant active agent selected from aluminium and/or zirconium salts, aluminium and/or zirconium complexes, and the mixtures thereof.

Description

 "Gel / gel composition containing an antiperspirant active"

The present invention aims to provide for the field of care and hygiene of keratinous substances, and in particular of the skin of the body, a new galenic particularly interesting in terms of its technical performance and sensory sensations that it provides to the user during its application on these and in particular on the skin.

 It also relates to a cosmetic process for treating perspiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration including axillary odors.

 By "keratin materials" is meant skin and integuments.

 By "skin" is meant the skin of the face and / or the body, the scalp and the semi-mucous membranes (lips).

 In the cosmetic field, it is well known to use topically as antiperspirants astringent salts such as aluminum salts and / or zirconium salts which have the effect of limiting or suppressing the flow of sweat.

 The compositions containing them, for example available in the form of roll-on, of sticks are generally emulsions stabilized with surfactants.

 Surfactants are not compatible with all applications, and they are sometimes described as being aggressive to the skin.

 In addition, in the particular case of antiperspirants, the presence of ionic aluminum salts limits the use of broad families of surfactants. The use of nonionic surfactants has been a way to overcome this problem.

 There is therefore a need for other galenics requiring a limited content of surfactants and providing another way to convey the antiperspirants.

 More generally, there is also a need to provide users with new galenics, different from conventional emulsified galenics such as roll'ons, aerosols emulsions, emulsion sticks and thick creams.

Finally, it is also known that antiperspirants, which are in the form of salts, tend to leave white marks and yellow spots on fabrics and clothing. These salts cause the inconvenience of forming, after application to the keratin materials, a deposit which dries slowly or even a fatty deposit. Moreover, the effectiveness of these antiperspirants too often require a repetitive application on the keratin materials in order to obtain a satisfactory effective antiperspirant effect.

 There remains therefore the need for stable antiperspirant products and possibly deodorants devoid of the disadvantages and / or limitations outlined above.

 The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

 Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention aims at a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:

 at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

 said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;

 said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.

The present invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:

 at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent;

 said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;

 said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent, especially chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.

By "antiperspirant agent" is meant any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and / or of reducing the sensation of moisture related to human sweat and / or of masking human sweat. The antiperspirant active agent may be present in the aqueous phase, in the oily phase or alternatively in the aqueous phase and in the oily phase. Of course, the gelling agent of the phase in which the antiperspirant active agent is present must be compatible with said antiperspirant active agent.

By "compatible" is meant that the bringing together in the same phase, in particular in the aqueous phase, of the antiperspirant active agent and gelling agent of said phase does not lead to destabilization of the phase.

 By "destabilization of the phase" is meant all the phenomena that can lead to a heterogeneity of the product such as the release of the oil, the creaming or the sedimentation, the appearance of macroscopic aggregates.

 Thus according to a first, preferred variant, the composition according to the invention comprises:

 at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one antiperspirant active agent present in the aqueous phase;

at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

 said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein.

According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention comprises:

at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

 at least one antiperspirant active agent present in the aqueous phase and in the oily phase;

said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is such that the antiperspirant active agent is present in the aqueous phase or present in the aqueous phase and the oily phase, more preferably the antiperspirant active agent is present in the aqueous phase. Advantageously, the antiperspirant active agent (s) are present in whole or in part, and preferably only, in the gelled aqueous phase.

It is apparent from the examples below that the compositions according to the invention are stable.

 Compositions, called gel-gel, are already proposed in the cosmetics field. This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al, Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175.

 However, to the inventors' knowledge, this type of composition does not currently make it possible to guarantee all the essential properties expected in the cosmetic field, such as a pleasant texture during the gripping of the product, a non-sticky deposit, comfortable and homogeneous, or a stability of the formulation. In addition, these compositions are not formulated as a deodorant.

 Thus, a composition according to the invention has a very good stability. In addition, a composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a sensation of freshness and lightness to the user at the application. More particularly, the compositions according to the invention are distinguished by their property of non-wetting freshness, absence of tack and non-greasy feel.

Finally, the composition is easy to apply on the surface of the targeted keratin material and leads to an improvement in the quality of the deposit (non-greasy) while conferring a good antiperspirant and possibly deodorant efficacy. The application of the composition according to the invention to the skin leads in particular to a smooth and homogeneous deposit, and produces a pleasant sensory, especially a sensation of freshness and lightness. More particularly, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to significantly reduce white traces and yellow spots on the tissues (non transfer character), while improving the quality of the deposit of the product and its effectiveness over time, while at the same time providing good wettability vis-à-vis the support in the presence of water and / or sebum, and, remanently, resistance to moisture due to perspiration and sebum fat, and a dry touch, and while retaining a sensory approval adapted for an antiperspirant / deodorant application.

 The non-transfer character of a composition corresponds to the fact that once applied, it does not deposit significantly on the surfaces with which it comes in contact, and more particularly clothing.

The subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one mixing step:

 at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

 said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;

 said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.

The subject of the invention is also a method for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one mixing step:

 at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

 at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent;

 said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;

 said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent, in particular selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.

The term "non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention and which comprises in its structure no cellulose group of chemical formula:

 no or any other group derived from cellulose resulting from the reaction of OH groups of cellulose with chemical reagents such as a cellulose ether (ethylcellulose), cellulose ester (carboxymethylcellulose) or ester-cellulose ether.

According to an alternative embodiment, this process may advantageously comprise a step of mixing at least two, preferably at least three, or even more gelled phases.

 For obvious reasons, the number of gelled aqueous phases and gelled oily phases to be considered for forming a composition according to the invention may vary for each of the two types of phase beyond two.

 According to an alternative embodiment, the mixing of the phases can be carried out at ambient temperature.

 However, the method of the invention may include, if necessary, a step of heating the mixture.

 According to a particular embodiment, the gelled phases representative of the same type of architecture are gelled by a different gelling agent.

 According to an alternative embodiment, the final formula can be manufactured without following a particular order of introduction of the various constituents and in some cases an "all-in-one" manufacture can be carried out.

 Multiphase formulas can thus be developed.

The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, a cosmetic process for treating perspiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration including axillary odors, consisting in applying to the surface of the skin and more particularly to axillary level, a composition according to the invention. Composition

 First, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.

 An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of one micrometer (0.1 to 100 μιη). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or an emulsifier to ensure its stability.

 In contrast, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel / gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

 The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases can not be individualized with the naked eye. More precisely, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing interpenetrating macro domains. These interpenetrating macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, under the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can not be characterized as having a "meaning", ie an O / W or E / H direction. In other words, a continuous phase and a dispersed phase can not be defined.

Thus, a composition according to the invention has a gel-like consistency. The stability of the composition can be ensured without the mandatory presence of a surfactant. Therefore, a cosmetic composition according to the invention does not necessarily require surfactant or silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability. A composition according to the invention differs from an emulsion according to at least one of the following tests: test carried out using a dyestuff, "drop test" and dilution test. Test carried out using a coloring material

It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a gel / gel-type composition, for example by introducing a coloring material either in the aqueous gelled phase or in the gelled lipophilic phase, before the formation of the gel / gel-type composition. During the visual inspection, in a gel / gel composition, the coloring matter appears to be uniformly dispersed, even if the dye is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. In fact, if two different dyes of different colors are introduced respectively into the oily phase and into the aqueous phase, before the formation of the gel / gel-type composition, the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the composition of the type. gel / gel. This is different from an emulsion in which, if a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous and oily phases, respectively, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye will be observed. present in the external phase (Remington: the Science and Practice of Pharmacy, I9 ^th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).

Test of gout

It is also known to distinguish a gel / gel composition of an emulsion by performing a "drop test". This test consists of demonstrating the bi-continuous nature of a gel / gel composition. Indeed, as mentioned above, the consistency of a composition is obtained thanks to the interpenetration of the aqueous and oily gelled domains. Therefore, the bi-continuous nature of a gel / gel composition can be evidenced by a simple test with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solvents respectively. This test consists in depositing, on the one hand, a drop of a hydrophilic solvent on a first sample of the tested composition, and, on the other hand, a drop of a hydrophobic solvent on a second sample of the same composition tested, and to analyze the behavior of the two drops of solvents. In the case of an O / W emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent diffuses into the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent remains on the surface of the sample. In the case of an W / O emulsion, the drop of hydrophilic solvent remains on the surface of the sample and the drop of hydrophobic solvent diffuses throughout the sample. Finally, in the case of a composition of gel / gel type (bi-continuous system), hydrophilic and hydrophobic drops diffuse throughout the sample.

Dilution test

 In the case of the present invention, the test that will be preferred for distinguishing a gel / gel composition from an emulsion is a dilution test. Indeed, in a gel / gel type composition, the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Therefore, the behavior during a dilution of a gel-like composition (dual-stream system) can be compared to that of an emulsion, and will of course lead to different results.

More specifically, the dilution test consists in putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The mixer speed is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, the observation of the resulting sample is performed using an optical microscope at a magnification of x100 (x10x10). It may be noted that oils as Parleam ^® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS ^® marketed by Dow Corning suitable as dilution solvent in the same way that oil contained in the composition.

 In the case of a gel / gel-type composition (bicontinuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel are observed in suspension and when a gel / gel composition (bicontinuous system) is diluted in water. the oil, pieces of aqueous gel are observed in suspension.

On the contrary, during the dilution, the emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, gradually reduces without having a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O / W emulsion, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (suspended E / H emulsion pieces) in water). This same W / O emulsion, when diluted in the oil, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

 According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the gelled oily phase forming a composition according to the invention are present in a weight ratio ranging from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 30/70 to 80/20.

 The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties.

 These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions.

 Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can therefore be in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it does not flow unless subjected to external mechanical stress.

 As is apparent from the following a composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa, in particular greater than 10 Pa, and preferably greater than 70 Pa.

 The composition according to the invention may have a threshold stress of less than 30000 Pa, preferably less than 10000 Pa and preferably less than 3000 Pa.

 It can also advantageously have a modulus of rigidity G * of at least 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.

 The composition according to the invention may have a modulus of rigidity G * preferably of less than 50000 Pa, preferably less than 30000 Pa, preferably less than 10000 Pa, preferably less than 5000 Pa and preferably less than 3000 Pa.

 According to an advantageous variant embodiment, the gelled phases considered for forming a composition according to the invention may respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, preferably greater than 10 Pa, and more preferably greater than 70 Pa.

The gelled phases considered for forming a composition according to the invention may have a threshold stress of less than 30000 Pa, preferably less than 10000 Pa and preferably less than 3000 Pa. The characterization of the threshold stresses is performed by oscillation rheology measurements. A methodology is proposed in the exemplification chapter of this text.

In general, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using an imposed stress rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with a device anti-evaporation (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the gap (2 mm). The tested composition is then subjected to a stress ramp of 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.

A composition according to the invention may also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity is characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which below this minimum stress threshold may be at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition considered at a stress ramp of 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a frequency set at 1 Hz.

HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER

 The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

 The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

 The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

 The hydrophilic gelling agents are preferably non-emulsifiers. As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

 The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof.

 These hydrophilic gelling agents may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.

More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent will be chosen from hydrophilic nonionic gelling agents, cationic hydrophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

I. Natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents

 Polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

 For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modifying natural polymeric gelling agents.

 These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.

 More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.

In general, the polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

 Thus the polysaccharides that are suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides in the image of glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

 Similarly, they may be linear or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed in the image of starch.

 More particularly, the polysaccharides that are suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.

I. A. Starch polysaccharides

 Representative of this category may be especially mentioned, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches. Native starches

The starches which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose (dextrose) units, linked by α (1,4) bonds, of chemical formula (C ₆ H _{0 O 5} ) n The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from approximately 600 to 1000 molecules of linearly-linked glucose, and amylopectin, a branched polymer around every 25 glucose residues (α-bond, The total chain can make between 10,000 and 100,000 glucose residues. Starch is described in particular in "Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical TECHNOLOGY, ^3rd edition, volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Inter Science 1983".

 The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. On average, a sample of native starch consists of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.

 Sometimes, there is presence of phytoglycogen (between 0% and 20% of the starch), an analogue of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.

 The starch can be in the form of semi-crystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in sheets, amylose forms a less well-organized amorphous zone between the different layers.

 Amyloidosis is organized into a right helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, more easily if it is in the form of amylopectin. Indeed, helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to enzymes.

 The starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

 By treating it with hot water, we obtain the poisoning. It is used in the industry for its thickener and gelling properties.

 The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from starches of maize, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea.

The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Amilogel ™, Cargill Gel ™, C * Gel ™, Cargill Gum ™, Dry Gel ™, C * Pharm Gel ™ by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de mais by Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch. Modified starches

 The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified by one or more of the following reactions: pre-gelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.

 More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows:

 pre-gelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);

 - acid hydrolysis resulting in a very rapid retrogressive cooling;

 dextrinisation in an acid medium at high temperature (hydrolysis then repolymerization);

 crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C ₁ -C ₆ acyl (acetyl), C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-0-PO- (OX) _{2 type} ), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). ) or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) ₂ ) or their mixtures.

 X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate. The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as, in particular, corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

 The modified starches are represented for example by the products sold under the names C * Tex-Instant (pre-gelatinized adipate), C * StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C * PolarT ex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl) , C * Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C * size (oxidation), C * BatterCrisp (oxidation), C * DrySet (dextrinisation), C * TexTM (acetylated diamidon adipate), C * PolarTexTM (hydroxypropylated diamidon phosphate) ), C * StabiTexTM (diamidon phosphate, acetylated diamidon phosphate) by Cargill, diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, such as the product sold under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (phosphate de hydroxypropylated manioc gelatinized diamidon) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized cornstarch).

 Preferably, the gelatinized maize diamidon phosphate, in particular NATIONAL STARCH STRUCTURE ZEA, is used. I. B. Non-starch polysaccharides

 In general, the non-starch polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides prepared by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gums arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, and their derivatives; and their mixtures.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gums Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic gums, the original biopolysaccharide gums microbial, in particular scleroglucan or mucopolysaccharide gums, and in particular chondroitin sulphates and mixtures thereof.

 These polysaccharides may be modified chemically, in particular by urea, urethane groups, or by reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

 Such a gelling agent may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight.

 More specifically, these polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, algae or higher plants, and are detailed below.

Polysaccharides made by microorganisms

 succinoglycane

 Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer produced by bacterial fermentation, of high molecular weight and consisting of repeated units of octasaccharides (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are, for example, sold under the name Rheozan by Rhodia.

scleroglucan

 Scleroglucan is a branched, nonionic homopolysaccharide composed of β-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose linked by β (1,3) linkages and of which one in three is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit via a β (1,6) bond.

A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in US 3,301,848. Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGUM by ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM ™ CS by Cargill.

Polysaccharides isolated from algae

 Galactannes

 The polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan, in particular chosen from agar.

 Galactans Agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophycea). They are formed of a polymer group whose base skeleton is a β (1,3) D-galactopyranose and a (1,4) L-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. Differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methylated or carboxyethylated solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present as a variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the season of harvest.

Agar-agar is a mixture of high molecular weight polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of between 40,000 and 300,000 g. mol ^"1. It is obtained by manufacturing algae extraction juice, usually by autoclaving, and treating these juices which include about 2% of agar to extract it.

 The agar is for example produced by the group B & V Agar Producers, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam .

Furceïïarane

 The furceïïarane is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. The furceïïarane is for example produced by the company East-Agar.

Polysaccharides of higher plants

This category of polysaccharides can be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (a single species of oste) and heterogeneous compounds of several types of dares. a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

 The polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructans.

Cellulose and derivatives

 The polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof in particular ethers or cellulose esters (eg methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

 The invention may also contain a cellulosic associative polymer. Cellulosic compound is understood to mean, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure linear chains of anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) residues united by β (1,4) glycosidic linkages. The repetition pattern is the cellobiose dimer. The AGUs are in chair conformation and have 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6). The polymers thus formed combine with each other by intermolecular links of the hydrogen bonding type, thus conferring a fibrillar structure on the cellulose (approximately 1500 molecules per fiber).

 The degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value can vary from a few hundred to a few tens of thousands.

 Cellulose has the following chemical structure:

CcHwbk

The hydroxyl groups of the cellulose may partially or totally react with different chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having their own properties. Cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

 Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose celluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

 Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

 Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses which may or may not be crosslinked.

 The quaternizer may be in particular glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine, such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

 The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

 quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

 quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

 The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxy ethylcelluloses are the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C ₁₂ alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C ₁₂ alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company CRODA.

 Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of:

celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls in C ₁₆ ) sold by AQUALON, and

 celluloses modified with alkyl phenol polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol.

 Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates, or phosphates, etc.), the organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.). and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate and acetate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates.

 The cellulosic compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

Celluloses and derivatives are exemplified by the products sold under the names Avicel ^® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (carboxymethylcellulose sodium) by Akzo Nobel under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by Dow under the names Aqualon ^® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel ^® (methyl cellulose), BlanoseTM ( carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai ^® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel ^® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf ^® (cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose) and Natrosol ^® CS (hydroxy ethyl cellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon. b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and their derivatives

 The polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for example cassia gum, karaya, konjac, tragacanth, tara, acacia or arabic gum.

Gum arabic

 Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. The monomeric elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.

Galactomannans (guar, carob, fenugreek, tara gum) and derivatives (phosphated guar, hydroxypropyl guar ...)

 Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of leguminous seeds of which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate.

 Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of β (1,4) -linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing lateral branches consisting of a single unit D-galactopyranose linked in a (1,6) to the chain main. The different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of α-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.

 The mannose / galactose ratio (M / G) is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.

Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:

 m ** 3: Lïseiïsî teas gs¾ »

ï 5 m <* ^"AI: gSÈSft

 #> s s "2; Tan * g¾eï

 guar

 Guar gum is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

 The guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used.

Non unmodified nonionic guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH VIDOGUM G and Vidocrem by Unipektin company and under the name Jaguar by Rhodia under the name Meypro ^® Guar by the company Danisco under the name VISCOGUMTM by Cargill, and under the name Supercol ^® guar gum by Aqualon.

The nonionic guar gums hydrolyzed used according to the invention are for example represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor ^® by the company Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups, among which, by way of example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance ^® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon. The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq / g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq / g. The charge density can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic galactomannan gum" generally means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

 The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 ⁶ , and preferably between about 10 ³ and ³ × 10 ⁶ .

The cationic galactomannan gums that can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising trialkyl (C 1 -C ₄ ) ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

 Among these trialkylammonium groups, there may be mentioned very particularly trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

 Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

 According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups, are products that are already known per se and are described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307. Such products are sold in particular under the US Pat. trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C 62 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Rhodia under the name Amilan ^® guar (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Degussa, under the N-Hance ^® 3000 name (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by Aqualon. The anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulphene, phosphoric, phosphonic acid or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a salt of sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium.

 The anionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention are preferably carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Carob

Locust bean gum is extracted from carob seed (Ceratonia siliqua). The gum unmodified carob used in this invention is sold for example under the name Viscogum ™ by Cargill under the name VIDOGUM L by Unipektin company, under the name Grinsted ^® LBG by Danisco.

 The chemically modified carob gums which can be used in this invention can be represented, for example, by the cationic carob sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

TARA rubber

 The Tara gum that can be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.

Glucomannans (konjac gum)

Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 <Mglucomannan <2,000,000) composed of D-mannose units and D-glucose with branching every 50 or 60 units. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the family Araceae. The products used according to the invention are for example sold under the name ^® and Propol Rheolex ^® by the company Shimizu.

Other Polysaccharides

 Among the other polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, P (1,4) -2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose), chitosan and derivatives (chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitine, etc.) as those sold by France-Chitine; IL Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

 For the purposes of the invention, the term synthetic means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin.

 As is apparent from the following, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from nonionic associative polymers, cationic associative polymers and their mixtures, and in particular nonionic associative polymers of the polyurethane type.

Associated polymers

 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

 Cationic associative polymers

 As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of polyacrylates with amino side groups.

 The polyacrylates with amino side groups, quaternized or otherwise, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth type (stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20)).

Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from National Starch. Nonionic associative polymers

 The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers;

copolymers of methacrylates or of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain;

 copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

 associative polyurethanes.

The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C ₆ to C ₃₀ carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of the polyurethane type is used as a gelling agent.

Examples of nonionic polyurethane polyethers fatty chain used in the invention, can also be used Rheolate ^® FX 1100 (Steareth- 100 / PEG 136 / FIDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate ^® 205 urea function sold by Elementis or the Rheolates ^® 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol ^® RM 184 or Acrysol ^® RM 2020.

Preferably, the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes comprising a fatty chain is used, including the Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) Copolymer sold by example under the trade name Rheolate ^® FX 1100 by Elementis.

We may also mention the product Elfacos T210 ^® alkyl chain C12-C14 and the product Elfacos T212 ^® alkyl chain C ₁₆ -i8 (14 Palmeth PPG-60 Hexyl dicarbamate) of Akzo.

The DW 1206B ^{® product} from Rohm & Haas with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.

 It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers,

 ® ® ®

mention may be made of Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Elementis. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J proposed by Rohm & Haas.

 The associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

 More particularly still, according to the invention, it is also possible to use an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

 Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by Rohm

 ® ® ®

& Haas under the names Aculyn 46 and Aculyn 44. Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, alcohol stearyl and methylenebis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%), and Γ Aculyn ^® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) .

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD FXIOIO, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from Elementis, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by Elementis. The Aculyn ^® 44, Aculyn ^® 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J products can also be used, as well as the Acrysol ^® RM 184 from Rohm & Haas, or the Borchi Gel LW 44 from Borchers, and their mixtures.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

 Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter and preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

 III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

 These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas.

III. A. Mixed silicate

 For the purposes of the present invention, mixed silicate is understood to mean all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals ( for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixed silicate or silicates are in the form of solid particles containing at least 10% by weight of at least one silicate relative to the total weight of the particles. In the remainder of the present disclosure, these particles are referred to as "silicate particles". Preferably, the silicate particles contain less than 1% by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles. Even more preferably, they contain from 0% to 1% by weight of aluminum relative to the total weight of the particles.

 Preferably, the silicate particles contain at least 50% by weight of silicate, more preferably at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles. Particles containing at least 90% by weight of silicates, based on the total weight of the particles, are particularly preferred.

 In particular, it is a silicate or a mixture of silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, aluminum or iron.

 Preferably, it is sodium silicate, magnesium and / or lithium.

In order to guarantee good cosmetic properties, these silicates are generally in a finely divided form, and in particular in the form of particles having an average size ranging from 2 nm to 1 μm (from 2 nm to 1 000 nm), and preferably from 5 nm to 600 nm, and even more preferably 20 nm to 250 nm.

 The silicate particles may have any shape, for example the shape of spheres, flakes, needles, platelets, disks, sheets, or totally random forms. Preferably, the silicate particles are in the form of disks or sheets.

 Also, the term "average size" of the particles means the average size in number of the largest dimension (length) that can be measured between two diametrically opposed points of an individual particle. The size can be determined for example by transmission electron microscopy, or from the measurement of the specific surface area by the BET method, or by means of a laser granulometer.

 When the particles in the form of disks or sheets, they generally have a thickness ranging from about 0.5 nm to 5 nm.

The silicate particles may consist of an alloy with oxides of metals or metalloids, obtained for example by thermal melting of its various constituents. When the particles further comprise such a metal oxide or metalloid, it is preferably selected from silicon oxide, boron or aluminum. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the SiO ₄ tetrahedra are organized into sheets between which the metal cations are enclosed. The mixed silicates that are suitable for the invention may be chosen for example from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and even better from laponites.

 A family of silicates particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention is that of laponites. Laponites are silicates of magnesium, sodium and possibly lithium, having a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Lapponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral called "hectorite". The synthetic origin of this family of silicates presents a considerable advantage over the natural form because it allows a good control of the composition of the product. In addition, laponites have the advantage of having a much smaller particle size than natural hectorite and bentonite.

 As laponites, the products sold under the

® ® ® ® following names: Laponite XLS, Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS, LAPONITE ^® XL21 (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates) by Rockwood Additives Limited.

 Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 8% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

III. B. Hydrophilic pyrogenic silica

The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic. The pyrogenic hydrophilic silicas are obtained by pyrolysis in continuous flame at 1000 ° C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl ₄ ) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the fumed silicas of hydrophilic nature that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by Degussa or Evonik. Degussa under the trade names AEROSIL ^® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380, or by CABOT under the name Carbosil H5.

 Such gelling agents may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Particularly preferred hydrophilic gelling agents will be chosen from amylaceous polysaccharides, non-starch polysaccharides, nonionic associative polymers, and mixtures thereof.

 In particular, among the starch polysaccharides, a modified starch will be chosen, and in particular a gelatinized maize diamidon phosphate, in particular NATIONAL STARCH STRUCTURE ZEA (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE).

 In particular, among non-starch polysaccharides, non-ionic celluloses and more particularly hydroxyethyl celluloses, such as the commercial product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC from Ashland, will be chosen.

 Among the nonionic associative polymers, nonionic polyether urethanes with a fatty chain such as the copolymer STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER such as the commercial product RHEOLATE FX from Elementis will be used.

 According to one particular embodiment, mixtures of these gelling agents, such as the following mixtures:

 (1) modified starch (in particular gelatinised cornstarch phosphate) and associative nonionic polymer (in particular polyether urethane with a fatty chain);

 (2) nonionic cellulose (hydroxyethylcellulose) and associative nonionic polymer (especially polyether urethane fatty chain);

(3) modified starch (in particular gelatinised cornstarch phosphate), associative nonionic polymer (in particular polyether urethane with a fatty chain) and nonionic cellulose (in particular hydroxyethylcellulose). GELIFYING LIPOPHILE

 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

 The gelling agent is therefore lipophilic present in the oily phase of the composition.

 The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

 As is apparent from the following, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers, hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.

I. Particulate gelling agents

 The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

 As a representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for the invention, polar, polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels can be particularly mentioned. Waxes

 By "wax" considered in the context of the present invention is generally meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid state / liquid change, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.

 For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

 The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

 The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

 The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbonaceous and / or fluorinated, optionally having ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes

The term "apolar wax" in the sense of this invention means a wax having a solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, O _a is 0 (J / cm) ^½

 The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

 According to this Hansen space:

 - δο characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

- δ _ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

δ _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type;

- 0 _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _ρ ² + δ _h ² ) ^½

The parameters δ _ρ , ô _h , ôo and ô _a are expressed in (J / cm) ^½ The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

 The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

 As ozokerite mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

Microcrystalline waxes which may be used include Multiwax W 445 ^® sold by Sonneborn, Microwax HW ^® and Base Wax 30540 ^® sold by Paramelt, and Cerewax ^® No. 3 sold by Baerlocher.

As microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, mention may be made especially polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ^®, 220 ^{®, ®} 220L and 250S ^® by the company Micro Powders.

As polyethylene wax include Performalene 500-L polyethylene and polyethylene Performalene 400 sold by New Phase Technologies, Asensa ^® SC 211 marketed by Honeywell. b) Polar wax

 By "polar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C δa is different from 0 (J / cm3) ½.

 In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

 The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based. By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen atoms, nitrogen and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

 By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

 In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax:

 ester waxes, such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R 1 and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C;

ii) tetrastearate di- (trimethylol 1, 1, 1 propane), sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ^® by the company Heterene;

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R - (- OCO - R ⁴ --COO - R ⁵ ), in which R ³ and R ⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 1 - alkyl group ₄ -C 30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R ⁴ represents a C ₄ -C 30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturation ( s), and preferably linear and unsaturated;

 iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol;

v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax. In particular, there may be mentioned HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE OF C18-C38 FATTY ALCOHOLS; INCI name: SYNTHETIC BEESWAX and sold under the name KESTERWAX K82P by the company Koster Keunen.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As an alcohol wax include, for example wax C30-50 Alcohol Alcohol Performacol ^® 550 sold by New Phase Technology, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

 It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.

 By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

 Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric ).

The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 2 -C 6) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ ) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer. silicones or C30-45 Alkyldiméthylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax ^® marketed by Dow Corning.

 The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, and silicone waxes. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use of the melting point waxes greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more compounds esters C40-C70 and containing no ester compound of a C ₂₀ -C _3. 9

 The term "ester compound" is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least one ester function of formula -COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical.

By "wax not comprising ester compound C ₂₀ -C39" is meant any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C ₂₀ -C ₃ ester compound 9, preferably less than 0.5% by weight the weight of the wax, or even free of C ₂ -C ₃ 9 ester compound.

 The waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes.

 The ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).

 Candellila wax and / or beeswax will be used more particularly.

They may be present in the oily phase in a proportion of 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight. % by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

Modified clays

 The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.

The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

 They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed. under the name Bentone 38V ^® by the company Elementis or Bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone gel ISD V ^® (87% isododecane / disteardimonium hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis.

 At least one lipophilic clay may in particular be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. oily phase

Silicas

 The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, fumed silica or silica airgel particles. a) Pyrogenic silica

 Particularly suitable for the invention, the hydrophobic treated silica treated surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

 The hydrophobic groups can be:

trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8 ^th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812 ^® by Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ^® by the company Cabot.

dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972 ^® , and Aerosil R974 ^® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 ^® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ^® by Cabot. The fumed silicas may be present in a composition according to the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the phase. oily. (b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels

 The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.

 Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being the supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academy Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a surface area per unit mass (SM) of from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g and more preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g. at 800 m ² / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μπι, better from 1 to 1000 μπι, preferably from 1 to 100 μπι, in particular from 1 to 30 μπι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μπι, more preferably from 5 to 20 μπι and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μπι.

 According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μπι, preferably from 5 to 25 μπι. , better from 5 to 20 μπι and even better from 5 to 15 μπι.

 The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer. MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by SmallP Articles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm ³ to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably from 0.03 g / cm ³ to 0, 08 g / cm ³ , in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ .

 In the context of the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following protocol, referred to as packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m ² / cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² / cm ³ and better from 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ .

The specific surface per unit volume is given by the relation: Sy = S _M xp; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm ³ and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m ² / g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

 It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

 An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

 The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

 The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

 By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

 Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

 Hydrophobic silica airgel particles that are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI Silica silylate, will preferably be used.

Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have a average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m ² / g.

Also exemplary aerogels marketed by the company Cabot Airgel TLD under the references 201, 201 Airgel EMT, Airgel 203 TLDs, ENOVA ^® Airgel MT 1100, MT 1200 ENOVA Airgel.

The airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

 Preferably, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels are present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight. weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase. IL organopolysiloxane elastomer

 The organopolysiloxane elastomer, which can be used as a lipophilic gelling agent, has the advantage of conferring on the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft and matifying after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It can also allow an effective filling of the hollows present on the keratin materials.

 By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

 It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

 Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenic unsaturation groups. , especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in the application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

 The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

 The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

 The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

 The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C ₂ -C ₄ ); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

 In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers terminated dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy termini, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers . In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

 Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

 It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

 Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

 The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A). and B).

 The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular that do not contain polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and a polyglyceryl unit.

 In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name) .

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be transported in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and JP-A-61-194009.

 The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

 As non-emulsifying elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" can more particularly be used. , "KSG-43", "KSG-44", by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9040", "DC9041", by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839" by the company General Electric.

 According to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 ° C. at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as groups hydroxyls, thiols and / or amines.

 These include the following INCI name compounds:

 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning;

 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu;

 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15";

 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt));

 C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:

 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as

"KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu;

 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning ^® EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend" of Dow Corning (polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by mixing hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)); and

 - DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1100 from Wacker Silicone.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form, mention may be made in particular of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning. These powders are intended INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and are INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer. As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned especially the reference "KSP-100" from Shin Etsu. As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned in particular cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer ( INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE

CROSSPOLYMER and in particular DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, KSG16 from Shin Etsu or DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE

CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1100 from Wacker Silicone.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention at a content of between 0.1% and 35% by weight of dry matter, in particular between 1% and 20% and more particularly between 2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

III. Semi-crystalline polymers

 The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

 The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.

 The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.

 The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention used are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

 The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyebrows.

 According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or sequences, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous

By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.

 Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequenced or multiblocked. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

 Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:

 homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain (s),

 polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

 polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

 copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and

 acrylate / silicone copolymers.

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:

 block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897,

polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,

homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers bearing, in the skeleton, at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,91, such as (Cio-C ₃ o) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer ^® from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ^® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer ^® IPA 13-1 of the company Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting point of 49 ° C,

 homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333,

 acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane),

 - and their mixtures.

Preferably, the amount of semicrystalline polymer (s), preferably selected from semicrystalline crystallizable side chain polymers, is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20%, or from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. IV. Esters of dextrin

The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ , in particular C ₁₄ to C _18; or their mixtures.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , in particular C ₁₄ -C _18, fatty acid dextrin ester.

 Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

 According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can for example be chosen from those marketed under the

 ® ® ®

denominations Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL or Rheopearl KL2 by Chiba Flour Milling.

 In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of ester (s) of dextrin, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight of dextrin palmitate, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Dextrin palmitate can in particular be that marketed under the names Rheopearl TL ^® or Rheopearl KL ^® or Rheopearl KL2 ^® by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

V. Hydrogen-bonded polymers

 As a representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers that are suitable for the invention, polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides may be particularly mentioned.

Polyamides

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight expressed as dry matter, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. a) Hydrocarbon polyamide

 By "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is meant a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups.

 Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1 000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.

 This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C.

dans laquelle X représente un groupe -N(R₁)₂ ou un groupe -ORi dans lequelAccording to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):

wherein X is -N (R ₁ ) ₂ or -OR 1 in which

Ri is a linear alkyl or branched C ₈ -C _22; may be identical or different from each other, R ₂ is a residue of diacid dimer C ₂₈ -C _{2 2} , R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

dans laquelle X représente un groupe -N(Ri)₂ dans lequel Ri est un radical alkyl linéaire ou ramifié en C₈ à C_22, pouvant être identique ou différents l'un de l'autre, R₂ est un résidu de dimère diacide en C₂₈-C₄₂, R₃ est un radical éthylène diamine, n est compris entre 2 et 5 ; and their mixtures. According to one particular embodiment, the polyamide used is a polyamide having a terminal ending of formula (Ia):

in which X represents a group -N (R 1) ₂ in which R 1 is a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical _{, which} may be identical to or different from each other, R ₂ is a diacid dimer residue at C ₂₈ -C ₄₂ , R ₃ is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

 and their mixtures.

 The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib):

X- -C- R -C- N H -R- H - - C- R ~ - G- X

 "I I I I

0 OOO wherein X represents an -OR group wherein R is a linear alkyl or branched C ₈ -C _22; preferably C ₁₆ to C _22; may be identical or different from each other, R ₂ is a diacid dimer residue C ₂₈ -C ₄₂ , R ₃ is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". b) Silicone polyamide

 The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

 (IF)

 or

dans lesquelles :

in which :

R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from

 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic, in C 1 -C 40, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms,

- C ₆ to C ₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,

 the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms,

 The X, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,

dans laquelle Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to C50 group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C ₃ -C ₈ cycloalkyl, C ₁ -C ₄₀ alkyl, C ₅ -C ₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl groups to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl, Ci to C ₃ alkyl and amino -C _6, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which

T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and

R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be bonded to a other polymer chain,

 N is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

 According to one particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.

More preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH ₃ , C ₂ H ₅ , n C ₃ H ₇ or isopropyl group in the formula (III).

 As an example of a silicone polymer that can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers", that is, say nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C. Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) and / or polyamide (s) silicone (s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and their mixtures, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

VI. Hydrocarbon block copolymer

 As representative of lipophilic gelling agents may be mentioned other polymeric gelling agents that are the block copolymers hydrocarbon also called block copolymers.

 The polymeric gelling agent is capable of thickening or gelling the hydrocarbon phase of the composition.

 By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form.

 The polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, that is to say that it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin and / or the lips.

 The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

 Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534.

The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably lower or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C. The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer.

 As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene. .

 Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

 Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

 In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene copolymers. -ethylene / butylene. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

 Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene, or a mixture of diblock, as described above, is used as polymeric gellant.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks, still more preferably selected from a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer (or the mixture of hydrocarbon-based block copolymers) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0% to 15% by weight. From 5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from polar waxes, apolar waxes, organopolysiloxane elastomers, modified clays, hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.

From polar waxes, preferably chosen wax HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE OF FATTY ALCOHOLS -C ₈ -C _38, the melting point waxes greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more compounds esters C40-C70 and not comprising ester compound C ₂₀ -C ₃ 9, in particular selected from candelilla wax and / or beeswax.

 Among the apolar waxes, polyethylene waxes and in particular CIREBELLE108 from Cirebelle are preferably chosen.

 Among the organopolysiloxane elastomers, DIMETHIC ONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER elastomers are preferably chosen, such as in particular the commercial product KSG16 from Shin Etsu or DIMETHICONE (and)

VINYLDIMETHYL / trimethyl / dimethicone

CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1100 from Wacker Silicone.

Among the modified clays, the hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride are preferably chosen, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V ^® by the company Elementis or Bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone gel ISD V ^® (87% isododecane / disteardimonium hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. Among the hydrocarbon-based block copolymers, the diblock copolymers such as COPOLYMER DIBLOC STYRENE / ETHYLENE-PROPYLENE such as KRATON G1701 EU SQR 1111 will be chosen.

According to a preferred embodiment, mixtures of these gelling agents, in particular:

 - polar wax (es) and / or polar wax (s) / modified clay,

 organopolysiloxane elastomer / modified clay.

GELIFYING SYSTEM) HYDROPHILESISGELIFYING) LIPOPHILIC (S)

 In particular, the following pairs are chosen from the hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s):

(1) non-ionic associative polymer combined with a modified starch / non-polar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated or not with a modified clay, and more particularly non-polar polyether urethane associative ionic agent combined with a gelatinized cornstarch phosphate / polyethylene wax or wax C ₈ -C ₃₈ fatty acid hydroformyl stearate or wax with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C40-C70 ester compounds and not including a C ₂ -C ₃ 9 ester compound associated or not with a hectorite modified with an ammonium chloride in

(2) Modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated with modified clay, and more particularly gelatinized cornstarch phosphate / polyethylene wax or wax HYDROXYSTEAROYL FATTY ALCOHOLS sTEARATE C ₁₈ - C ₃₈ or wax of melting point 45 ° C comprising one or more ester compounds C40-C70 and containing no ester compound in C2o -C ₃ 9 associated with a modified hectorite by a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride.

(3) Nonionic Associative Polymer Associated with a Modified Starch / Organopolysiloxane Elastomer Associated with a Modified Clay, and More Particularly Nonionic Associative Nonionic Polyether Urethane Combined with a Cornstarch Phosphate gelatinized / organopolysiloxane elastomer DEVIETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHIC ONE CROSSPOLYMER to a hectorite modified with a C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ ammonium chloride _;

(4) Nonionic cellulose associated with a modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated or not with a modified clay, and more particularly hydroxyethylcellulose associated with a modified gelatinized maize diamidon phosphate / polyethylene wax or wax HYDROX YS TE ARO YL STEARATE OF C ₁₈ - C ₃₈ FATTY ALCOHOLS or wax with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C40-C70 ester compounds and not comprising ester compound in C20-C39 with or without a hectorite modified with an ammonium chloride C ₁₀ to C22.

(5) Nonionic Cellulose Associated with a Modified Starch / Organopolysiloxane Elastomer Associated with a Modified Clay, and More Particularly with Hydroxyethylcellulose Associated with a Gelatinized Corn Diphosphate Phosphate / Organopolysiloxane Elastomer DEVIETHICONE / VINYL DEVIETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER with a Modified Hectorite by a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride.

 ACTIVE ANTI-TRANSPIRANT

 As stated above, the salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium suitable for the invention can be used as antiperspirant active agents well known to those skilled in the art.

 By "antiperspirant active" is meant a salt that, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, reduce the sensation on the skin of moisture related to human sweat or hide human sweat.

 The antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3792068, and mixtures thereof.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum complex chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol, aluminum chlorohydrex complex propylene glycol, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, sodium lactate and sodium lactate buffered aluminum sulfate. aluminum, and mixtures thereof.

 Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof.

 Complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, and mixtures thereof.

 Sesquichlorohydrate aluminum is sold in particular under the trade name REACH 301® by SUMMITREHEIS.

 Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention may be made of complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having the INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that marketed under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by the company SUMMITREHEIS.

Aluminum hydrochloride in activated or non-activated form, especially marketed under the trade names LOCRON S FLA®, LOCRON P®, LOCRON L.ZA® by the company CLARIANT, will be used more particularly; under the trade names MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE®, MICRO-DRY 323®, CHLORHYDROL® 50, REACH® 103, REACH® 501 by SUMMITREHEIS; under the trade name WESTCHLOR 200® by WESTWOOD; under the trade name ALOXICOLL PF 40® by the company GUILINI CHEMIE; CLURON 50% ® by INDUSTRIA QUIMICA DEL CENTRO; CLOROHIDROXIDO ALUMINIO SO A 50% ® by the company FINQUFMICA. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the aluminum salt used in a composition according to the invention is an aluminum chlorohydrate.

The antiperspirant active agent, preferably chosen from the salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium, that is to say the said one or more, is present in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight. preferably from 10% to 40% and more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The antiperspirant active agent is present either in the aqueous phase or in both the aqueous and oily phases, preferably the antiperspirant active agent is in the aqueous phase.

 Preferably, the antiperspirant active agent is chosen from aluminum salts, and preferably the antiperspirant active agent is aluminum chlorohydrate. According to a particularly preferred form, the composition of the invention comprises the antiperspirant active agent in the aqueous phase and comprises and a hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / lipophilic gelling agent (s) chosen from the following combinations :

 (1) nonionic associative polymer combined with a modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (s) associated or not with a modified clay;

 (2) modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated with a modified clay;

 (3) nonionic associative polymer combined with a modified starch / organopolysiloxane elastomer combined with a modified clay;

 (4) nonionic cellulose associated with a modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated or not with a modified clay;

 (5) nonionic cellulose combined with a modified starch / organopolysiloxane elastomer combined with a modified clay.

The antiperspirant active agent is more particularly aluminum chlorohydrate. DEODORANT ASSETS

 The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one deodorant active agent.

 Deodorant active means any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria

 The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan®), 2,4-dichloro-2 3-Hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea

(Triclocarban®) or 3,7,1-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of the glycerol type, 1,3-propanediol (in particular ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL® sold by the company Dupont Tate and Lyle Bioproducts), 1,2-decanediol (in particular sold under the trade name Symclariol® by the company Symrise); derivatives of glycerin, for example Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (in particular marketed under the trade name CAPMUL MCM® by the company Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol caprate (especially sold under the trade names Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC® respectively by the company STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate ((especially sold under the trade name DERMOSOFT DGMC® by the company STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts, chlorhexidine and its salts, 4-Phenyl-4, 4-dimethyl-2-butanol ((especially sold under the trade name SYMDEO MPP® by the company Symrise), cyclodextrins, chelating agents such as those sold under the trade name DISSOLVINE GL-47-S® by the company Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid).

Among the deodorant active agents according to the invention, mention may also be made of zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate and zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate. We can also mention:

 - sodium bicarbonate;

 salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;

zeolites, in particular metallic zeolites, without silver;

 - Moon ; and

 triethyl citrate.

The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

 The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

 By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

 The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, ketones of C ₃ and C ₄ and C ₂ -C 4 aldehydes.

 The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyol.

By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

 A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.

 The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

 Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol. polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

 According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.

 According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

 Oily phase

 For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.

 An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.

 The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an alternative embodiment, the oils of silicone origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

 The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

 The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

 The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.

By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{"). 3} to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).

 Volatile oils

 The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone.

Mention may be made from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms branched alkanes, C ₈ -C ₆ such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) C ₈ -C _6, isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched esters, C ₈ -C ₆ such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

 It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to

16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the n-undecane (Cn) and n-undecane mixtures. tridecane (C ₁₃ ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

 Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

 Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

 The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

 As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be made of:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

 hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,

synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R ₂ is> 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters and the like. isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate. isotridecyl, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononanoate isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

 at room temperature liquid with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol,

 higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

 non-phenylated silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and

 phenylated silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt; trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.

 Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. Such silicone oils are particularly preferred when the lipophilic gelling agent is an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

 A composition according to the invention may comprise from 2% to 85% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

 As specified above, the gelled oily phase according to the invention can have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, preferably greater than 10 Pa, and more preferably greater than 70 Pa. The gelled oily phase according to the invention can have a threshold stress of less than 30000 Pa, preferably less than 10000 Pa and preferably less than 3000 Pa.

This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase. Additives

 Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

 Among the additives, mention may in particular be made of cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, perfumes, or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

 Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent (also called humectant).

 Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin.

 The additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to to the total weight of said composition

 It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

EXPENSES

 Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one solid particle such as a filler.

 These fillers are conventionally used in hygiene or care compositions.

 These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. Illustrative of these fillers, may be mentioned talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-alanine powders and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon ^®), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel ^® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls ^® , for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres such as those sold under the name Sunsphere H51® or Solisphere H51® sold by AGC SI-TECH, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 25% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 15% by weight, in particular between 0, 5% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition may comprise at least solid particles such as fillers.

 Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of solid particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

DISPERSING AGENT

 Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a dispersing agent.

Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them. According to a particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant.

 Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

 Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

METHODOLOGY FOR DYNAMIC OSCILLATION RHEOLOGY MEASUREMENTS

 These are harmonic rheological measurements that measure the elastic modulus.

 The measurements are carried out using a Haake RS600 rheometer on a product at rest, at 25 ° C with a plane plane 60 mm and a gap of 2 mm.

 The measurements in harmonic regime make it possible to characterize the viscoelastic properties of the products. The technique involves subjecting a material to sinusoidally varying stress over time and measuring the response of the material to that stress. In a domain where the behavior is viscoel as linear (zone where the deformation is proportional to the stress), the constraint (τ) and the deformation (γ) are two sinusoidal functions of the time which are written in the following way:

 x (t) = To sin (cot)

 γ (ΐ) = γο sin (cot + δ)

 or :

 το represents the maximum amplitude of the stress (Pa);

 γο represents the maximum amplitude of the deformation (-);

ω = 2ΠΝ represents the pulsation (rad.s ^"1 ) with N representing the frequency

(Hz); and

δ represents the phase shift of the stress with respect to the deformation (rad). Thus, the two functions have the same angular frequency but they are out of phase by an angle δ. According to the phase shift δ between x (t) and γ (ΐ), the behavior of the system can be apprehended:

 - If δ = 0, the material is purely elastic;

 - If δ = Π / 2, the material is purely viscous (Newtonian fluid); and

- If 0 <δ <Π / 2, the material is viscoelastic.

In general, stress and strain are written in complex form: x * (t) = x ₀ e ^itut

γ * (ΐ) = γο e ^{(ltut + 5)}

A modulus of complex rigidity, representing the overall resistance of the material to deformation, whether of elastic or viscous origin, is then defined by:

 G * = τ * / γ * = G '+ iG "

 or :

G 'is the conservation modulus or elastic modulus which characterizes the stored energy and totally restored during a cycle, G' = (τ ₀ / γο) cos δ; and

G "is the loss module or viscous module that characterizes the energy dissipated by internal friction during a cycle, G" = (τ ₀ / γ ₀ ) sin δ.

 The parameter adopted is the modulus of average stiffness G * measured at the plateau measured at a frequency of 1 Hz. EXAMPLES

 In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given in% by weight / total weight of the composition.

 The following formulas are prepared so that remains constant:

 the mass percentage of the oily phase,

 the mass percentage of the aqueous phase,

 the percentage by weight of oily gelling agent,

the mass percentage of aqueous gelling agent, All the other constituents of the formulas are present in the same mass percentage.

Preparation of compositions

 Preparation of lipophilic phases L

 The fatty phase is gelled with at least one oily gelling agent. In the compositions according to the invention, the fatty phase is gelled by a polar wax: synthetic beeswax (Examples 1 and 7), an apolar synthetic wax (Examples 2, 3), by an apolar polymer: by a copolymer diblock (Example 4), with a silicone elastomer (Example 5, 6, 8, 10, 11), with a modified clay such as Disteardimonium Hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG) (Examples 7 to 11).

 In addition, different oils, polar or apolar, were used.

 Procedure: At first, when the system contains charges, they are incorporated into the oils. Then all of the hot-soluble raw materials are weighed in a beaker and solubilized with mechanical stirring above 80 ° C for Examples 1,2,3,4 and 7. For Examples 5,6,8,9,10 and 11, this step is at room temperature.

As soon as the solution is macroscopically clear, are added the oily gelling agents with mechanical stirring using a "deflocculator". The gel obtained constitutes a homogeneous gel.

Preparation of hydrophilic gels H

 The components of the aqueous phase are weighed in a beaker and stirred.

 The aqueous phase is gelled with at least one aqueous gelling agent with aluminum chlorohydrate.

 In the compositions according to the invention, the aqueous phase is gelled with an amphoteric synthetic associative polymer (Examples 1 to 9 and 11), an amphoteric modified starch (Examples 1 to 10) and a non-starch polysaccharide (Example 10). Procedure: The aqueous gelling agent is introduced into the aqueous solvents with stirring using a "deflocculator" at room temperature. The gel obtained constitutes a homogeneous gel.

Procedure of the gel / gel

 Since the lipophilic and hydrophilic phases are macroscopically homogeneous, the gel / gel is prepared by mixing the two phases in a "kneader" mixer equipped with a tank and an axial blade with moderate stirring for 4 minutes.

 The final gel is characterized by macroscopically homogeneous, bicontinuous dispersion.

Properties tested

 The compositions obtained are stored at room temperature. The observation of the macroscopic appearance of the gel / gel is continued during

24 hours.

Compositions according to the invention:

Example 3 Example 4

Example 2

 Example 1 Polymer Wax

Wax Compounds

 Polar wax + apolar + apolar + INCI name apolar +

 polar oil oil oil polar oil

 apolar apolar

ISONONANOATE

 isononyl

 marketed under the 9,11 9, 11 - - name DUB ININ® by the

 Stearinerie company

 Dubois

palmitate

 Isopropyl

 marketed under the 9,11 9, 11 - - DUB IPP® name by the

 Stearinerie company

 Dubois

POLYISOBUTENE

HYDROGEN

 marketed under the

 PHASE B

 name PARLEAM® by - - 18,22 18,22 LIPOPHILE

 Dow

 CorningNOF

 CORPORATION

SYNTHETIC BEESWAX

 marketed under the

 name KESTERWAX 2,88 - - - ®K82P by the

 Innovadex company

 KOSTER KEUNEN

SYNTHETIC WAX

 marketed under the

 name CIREBELLE 108® - 2,88 2,88 - by the company Sasol

Cirebelle Example 3 Example 4

 Example 2

 Example 1 Polymer Wax

Wax Compounds

 Polar wax + apolar + apolar + INCI name apolar +

 polar oil oil oil polar oil

 apolar apolar

HYDROGEN STYRENE / ISOPRENE COPOLYMER

 marketed under the - - - 1 name KRATON G 1701

 EU ®by society

 Kraton Polymers

COPOLYMER ACRYLATES

 marketed under the

 name EXPANCEL 551 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

DE 40 D42 ®by the

 Nobel Industry company

 AKZO NOBEL

Water 39.4 39.4 39.4 41.28

phenoxyethanol

 marketed under the

 Name NEOLONETM PH 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 100 PRESERVATIVE

 by Dow

 Chemical

OCTANE-1,2-DIOL PHASE

HYDROPH marketed under

 ILE name M IN AC A RE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

 OCTIOL® by the

 Minasolve company

Aluminum

 chlorohydrate

 marketed under the name CHLORHYDROL

 50® by society

SUMMITREHEI S Example 3 Example 4

 Example 2

 Example 1 Polymer Wax

Wax Compounds

 Polar wax + apolar + apolar + INCI name apolar +

 polar oil oil oil polar oil

 apolar apolar

GLYCERIN

 marketed under the

 name CONCERINE CD 3,33 3,33 3,33 3,33 99,5 NAT REF ®by the

 ADM company

STEARETH- 100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER

 marketed under the 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 name RHEOLATE FX

 1100® by society

 Elementis

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

 marketed under the 4 4 4 4 name STRUCTURE

 ZEA® by National

 Starch

Example 7

 Example 8

Example 5 Example 6 Polar wax

 KSG + oil compounds

 KSG + oil KSG + oil + oil

 Polar INCI name + fleece polar fleece +

 hectorite hectorite

ISONONANOATE

 isononyl

 PHASE B marketed under the 9.11 - 8.87 8.87 LIPOPHILE name DUB ININ® by the

 Stearinerie company

Dubois Example 7

 Example 8

Example 5 Example 6 Polar wax

 KSG + oil compounds

 KSG + oil KSG + oil + oil

 Polar INCI name + fleece polar fleece +

 hectorite hectorite

palmitate

 Isopropyl

 marketed under the 9.11, 8.87, 8.87 DUB IPP ® name by the

 Stearinerie company

 Dubois

POLYDIMETHYLSIL OXANE (VISCOSITY:

 100 CST)

 marketed under the - 18,22 - - name BELSIL DM 100®

 by the company Waker

 Chemie AG

PROPYLENE CARBONATE

 marketed under the

 name JEFFSOL ® - - 0.48 0.48 PROPYLENE CARBONATE by the

 Huntsman company

Disteardimonium

HECTORITE

 marketed under the - - 1,58 1,58 BENTONE name 38

 VCG ® by the company

 Elementis

DIMETHICONE (and)

Dimethicone / VINY

 DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 2.88 2.88 - 2 marketed under the

 name KSG 16 by the

Shin Etsu company Example 7

 Example 8

Example 5 Example 6 Polar wax

 KSG + oil compounds

 KSG + oil KSG + oil + oil

 Polar INCI name + fleece polar fleece +

 hectorite hectorite

SYNTHETIC BEESWAX

 marketed under the - - 2 - name KESTERWAX

 K82P ®by the

 Koster Keunen company

COPOLYMER ACRYLATES

 marketed under the

 name EXPANCEL 551 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

DE 40 D42 ®by the

 Nobel Industry company

 akzo nobel

Water 39.4 39.4 38.7 38.7

phenoxyethanol

 marketed under the

 Name NEOLONETM PH 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 100 PRESERVATIVE

 by Dow

 Chemical

PHASE A HYDROPH OCTANE-1,2-DIOL

 ILE marketed under 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 name M IN AC A RE

 OCTIOL®

Aluminum

 chlorohydrate

 marketed under the name CHLORHYDROL

 50® by society

SUMMITREHEI S Example 7

 Example 8

Example 5 Example 6 Polar wax

 KSG + oil compounds

 KSG + oil KSG + oil + oil

 Polar INCI name + fleece polar fleece +

 hectorite hectorite

GLYCERIN

 marketed under the 3,33 3,33 3,33 3,33 name CONCERINE CD

 99.5 NAT REF®

STEARETH- 100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER

 marketed under the 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 name RHEOLATE FX

 1100® by society

 Elementis

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

 marketed under the 4 4 4 4 name STRUCTURE

 ZEA® by National

 Starch

compounds

 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 INCI name

ISONONANOATE

 isononyl

 PHASE B marketed under 35.48 35.48 8.87

LIPOPHILE name DUB ININ® by the

 Stearinerie company

Dubois compounds

 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 INCI name

palmitate

 Isopropyl

 marketed under the - 8,87 name DUB IPP® by the

 Stearinerie company

 Dubois

PROPYLENE CARBONATE

 marketed under the

 name JEFFSOL® 0,95 0,95 0,48 PROPYLENE CARBONATE by the

 Huntsman company

Disteardimonium

HECTORITE

 marketed under the 3.17 3, 17 1.58 BENTONE name 38

 VCG® by society

 Elementis

DIMETHICONE (and)

Dimethicone / VINY

 The DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 2 2 2 marketed under the

 name KSG 16 ® by the

 Shin Etsu company

COPOLYMER ACRYLATES

 marketed under the

name EXPANCEL ®551 0.4 0.4 0.4

DE 40 D42 by the

Nobel Industry company

Akzo nobel compounds

 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 INCI name

Water 23.03 23, 13 38.77

phenoxyethanol

 marketed under the

 Name NEOLONETM PH 0.21 0.29 0.5 100 PRESERVATIVE

 by Dow

 Chemical

OCTANE-1,2-DIOL

 marketed under the - - 0,7 name M IN AC A RE

 OCTIOL

Aluminum

 chlorohydrate

 marketed under the name CHLORHYDROL 30 30

 PHASE A 50 by society

HYDROPHIL SUMMITREHEIS

GLYCERIN

 marketed under the 2.5 2.5 3.33 name CONCERINE CD

 99.5 NAT REF

STEARETH- 100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER

 marketed under the 0,43 - 5 name RHEOLATE FX

 1100 by the company by

 the Elementis company

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

 marketed under 3.83 3.83 - name STRUCTURE

ZEA by National Starch compounds

 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 INCI name

HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE (PM:

 1,300,000)

 marketed under the - 0.25 - name NATROSOL 250

 HHR CS by society

 Ashland

All the compositions tested, in accordance with the invention, are stable for hours.

Claims

1. Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising:  at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;  at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;  said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;  said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.  2. Composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:  at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;  at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent;  said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein;  said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the antiperspirant active agent is selected from aluminum salts, preferably the antiperspirant active ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate.  4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the antiperspirant active agent is present in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 40% and more particularly ranging from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.  5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the antiperspirant active agent is present:  (i) in the aqueous phase, or (ii) in the aqueous phase and the oily phase. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof.  The composition of claim 6, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from nonionic hydrophilic gelling agents, cationic hydrophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.  8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:  starch polysaccharides, in particular modified starches and more particularly a gelatinized cornstarch phosphate;  non-starch polysaccharides, in particular nonionic celluloses, and more particularly hydroxyethylcelluloses;  nonionic associative polymers, in particular nonionic fatty-chain polyether urethanes, and more particularly the copolymer STEARETH-100 / PEG-136 / HDI COPOLYMER;  - as well as their mixtures.  The composition of claim 8, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture selected from the following mixtures:  (1) Modified starch and nonionic associative polymer;  (2) Nonionic Cellulose and Nonionic Associative Polymer;  (3) Modified starch, nonionic associative polymer and nonionic cellulose. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers, copolymers. hydrocarbon sequences and mixtures thereof,  The composition of claim 10, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from: polar waxes, in particular wax of C ₈ -C ₃₈ fatty alcohol HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE, waxes with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C40-C70 ester compounds and not comprising an ester compound in C ₂ oC ₃ 9; apolar waxes, in particular polyethylene waxes;  organopolysiloxane elastomers, in particular elastomers DIMETHICO E (and) DIMETHIC ONE / VINYL DIMETHIC ONE CROSSPOLYMER modified clays, in particular hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride;  hydrocarbon block copolymers, in particular COPOLYMER DIBLOC STYRENE / ETHYLENE-PROPYLENE;  - as well as their mixtures.  The composition of claim 11, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is a mixture selected from the following mixtures:  - polar wax (es) and / or polar wax (s) / modified clay;  organopolysiloxane elastomer / modified clay.  13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent (s) / gelling agent (s) lipophilic (s) selected from the following associations:  (1) nonionic associative polymer combined with a modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (s) associated or not with a modified clay;  (2) modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated with a modified clay;  (3) nonionic associative polymer combined with a modified starch / organopolysiloxane elastomer combined with a modified clay;  (4) nonionic cellulose associated with a modified starch / apolar wax (es) and / or polar wax (es) associated or not with a modified clay;  (5) nonionic cellulose combined with a modified starch / organopolysiloxane elastomer combined with a modified clay.  14. Composition according to claim 13, comprises the antiperspirant active in the aqueous phase, and more particularly the antiperspirant active ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing the aqueous and oily gelled phases in an aqueous phase / oily phase weight ratio of 95/5 to 5/95, preferably 30/70 to 80/20. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one deodorant active.  17. A process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one mixing step:  at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;  at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;  said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent selected from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof.  18. A process for preparing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one mixing step:  at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;  at least one oily phase gelled with at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent;  said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture therein; said composition further comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent, in particular chosen from aluminum and / or zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly aluminum hydrochloride; .  19. The method of claim 17 or 18, comprising a step of mixing at least two gelled phases.  20. Process according to any one of claims 17 to 19, wherein the mixing is carried out at ambient temperature.  21. Cosmetic process for treating perspiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, especially axillary odors, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin and more particularly to the level of the axillaries, a composition according to any of claims 1 to 16.