WO2015090792A1 - Hair colorant comprising a silicone block copolymer and a quaternary ammonium compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a composition for changing the colour of keratinous fibres, comprising, within a suitable cosmetic vehicle, a) at least one compound from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes or mixtures thereof, b) at least one silicone block copolymer comprising structural units of the formulae (I) and (II) in which X is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms, Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms, R1 is a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical, R3 is -H or a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical, p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18, m and n are integers between 2 and 200, and c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound.

Description

 HAIR COLORING AGENT CONTAINS A SILICONE BLOCK COPOLYMER AND A QUARTER AMMONIUM COMPOUND

The invention relates to a composition for dyeing change of keratinic fibers, which contains in a cosmetic carrier in addition to at least one coloring compound at least one Pflegestoffkombination consisting of at least one silicone block copolymer and at least one quaternary ammonium compound. The compositions of the invention are particularly suitable for the reduction of hair damage and for improving the hair surface in the oxidative dyeing of human hair and cause no or only minimal color shift. In addition, the invention relates to a dyeing process with the aid of the composition and the use of the composition or the care combination for reducing the damage to hair, to improve the hair surface and to increase the color retention and washout of dyed or bleached hair, and a corresponding kit for coloring keratinic fibers.

 The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:

 For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings, however, usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called substantive dyes as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyes are usually much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so then much more quickly a much undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs.

 Finally, recently, a novel dyeing process has received much attention. In this method, precursors of the natural hair dye melanin are applied to the hair; These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair. In such processes, for example, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline is used as the dye precursor. In particular, multiple use of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, it is possible to reproduce natural hair color to people with graying hair. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that no further oxidizing agents must be used. In individuals with originally medium blond to brown hair, the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor. On the other hand, satisfactory results can often only be achieved for use in persons with originally red and, in particular, dark to black hair color, by using other dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors. For the most part, oxidation stabilizers for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative use have an alkaline pH adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.

 The abovementioned oxidation dye precursors and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel. The carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the colorant on the hair.

 Commercial oxidation stains are commonly formulated into product series that include a standardized carrier that can be combined with the nuance-specific oxidation dye precursor combination and alkalizing agents as fully as possible.

 Consumers can usually obtain the coloring of the hair that can be achieved with a hair dye from an indication on the packaging of the hair dye and / or a color chart enclosed in the packaging. For the consumer, it is very important that the result of the dyeing match as closely as possible with the color specified by the manufacturer.

The result of the dyeing does not depend solely on the combination of oxidation dye precursors used and, if appropriate, substantive dyes, but is also influenced by the ingredients of the carrier. For example, the dyes formed or directly used in the course of color development under the influence of the oxidizing agent may have a significantly different absorption capacity onto the fiber; also the carrier ingredients can act differently on each dye.

Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. These tests thus take into account the interactions between oxidation dye precursors and carriers only for a specific carrier. On the part of the manufacturers there is a regular desire to tailor a hair dye series specifically to the specific needs of certain consumer groups by adding appropriate active ingredients or conditioners to the standardized carrier. For consumers with more damaged hair, for example, the addition of one or more care ingredients with hair repairing effect would be recommended, while an addition of too much conditioning would further complain the hair.

However, the addition of such additives may lead to differences between the hair coloration achieved with the additive-free (standard) carrier and the carrier containing the additive. For the purposes of the present application, such color differences are referred to as "color shift." This color shift, also denoted dE or ΔΕ, can be determined colorimetrically well with a color measuring device with which the colors in the L ^* , a ^* , b ^* color space are measured be, for example, with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450th

The L ^* , a ^* , b ^* color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space. The L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration. The a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to red. The b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.

The color shift ΔΕ, ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L ^* , a ^* , b ^* value combination has been determined, is calculated according to the following formula:

ΔΕ = (AI ² + Aa ² + From ² ) ^{0 5}

 The larger the value for ΔΕ, the more pronounced is the color difference or "color shift." Color differences with ΔΕ <1 are not perceptible to the human eye .. Color differences with ΔΕ <2 are visible to the trained eye Color differences with ΔΕ> 2 are also visible to the untrained eye.

 In the worst case, the addition of an additive to a colorant carrier causes a color shift with respect to the additive-free carrier (standard) with ΔΕ> 2, which is also visible to the untrained eye of the consumer. To avoid having to carry out costly tests with regard to the obtainable hair coloration and, if appropriate, the fastness properties with each additive change of the standard carrier, it is therefore desirable to identify active ingredients and hair conditioners whose addition has no or at least only a small amount Color shift causes.

It is therefore particularly desirable to provide colorants which, in addition to an improved coloring ability, in particular an improved color lift on the keratinic bevel, make a positive contribution to improving the fiber structure and thus simultaneously act as a care or conditioner. Thus, the otherwise often required, additional nourishing aftertreatment could be dispensed with, which is disadvantageous both in terms of application comfort as an additional treatment step and in terms of packaging economics. The present application was therefore based on the object to provide storage-stable cosmetic composition for color change keratinischer fibers, in which one or more selected care agents are used, which cause no or minimal color shift, and reduced hair damage and thus improved color retention and improved Have homogeneity of staining. Such reduced hair damage can be detected on the hair surface, for example, by reducing hair breakage or split ends or improving combability.

 In an unpredictable manner, it has now been found that color-changing compositions which contain, in addition to a color-modifying component, at least one care substance combination consisting of at least one silicone block copolymer and at least one quaternary ammonium compound avoid the abovementioned disadvantages. Due to the nourishing effect when using the composition according to the invention no or only a minimal color shift can be caused and the hair damage and thus caused Farberhalt and the homogeneity of the coloring are thereby significantly improved. A first subject of the invention is therefore a composition for the color change of keratinous fibers, contained in a suitable cosmetic carrier

 a) at least one compound from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes or mixtures thereof

 b) at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II)

 in which

 X represents a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms,

 Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms,

 R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

 R 3 represents -H, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

 p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18

m and n are integers between 2 and 200, c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound.

Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand. Although the agents according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing human hair, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.

 The agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of the invention, this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

 Dyeing compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substantive dye or oxidation dye precursor or mixtures thereof. Compositions which simultaneously have a coloring and whitening action usually contain both oxidizing agents and at least one substantive dye and / or oxidation dye precursors. If only substantive dyes are present, for example, the formulation of a dyeing shampoo is possible.

 According to preferred compositions for dyeing and / or brightening keratinic fibers are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% of one or more oxidation dye precursors and / or one or more substantive dyes.

 In a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention contain as coloring components at least one oxidation dye precursor.

 The oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

 In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain at least one developer type and / or type of coupler oxidation dye precursor. Preferably, the colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.

The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates. Inventive developer components are selected from p-phenylenediamine, binuclear developer components, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, heterocyclic developer components and / or the derivatives of the above classes of substances. The developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

 Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.

 Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected from m-aminophenol, m-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene, o-aminophenol, naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group, di- or trihydroxybenzene, pyridine, pyrimidine, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindole, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindoline, pyrazolone , Benzomorpholine, quinoxaline and / or the derivatives of the preceding classes of substances. The coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use colorant.

 In this case, developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.

 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component and / or at least one coupler component, preferred developer components being selected from toluene-2,5-diamines sulfates, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino-pyrazoles sulfates, 4 -Amino-m-cresol, and preferred coupler components are selected from m-aminophenol, 1-naphthol, resorcinol, 6-methoxy-2-methylamino-3-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4-amino 2-hydroxytoluene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole sulfate.

In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation, it is advantageous according to the invention if the agents according to the invention contain further coloring components. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can contain as coloring component, in particular for shading, at least one substantive dye. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. The substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight. Direct dyes are known as anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substantive dye which is selected from Nitrophenylendiaminen, Nitroaminophenolen, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, preferably from the known under the international name or trade name dye HC Yellow 2 and 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol.

 In a further embodiment of the present invention, at least one dye precursor of naturally-analogous dyes is added as the coloring component.

 The dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a further embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative. Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants. Consequently, in this embodiment said compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent. The dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agents.

 It is not necessary for oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, oxo dye precursors or naturally-analogous dyes to be each one of the same compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.

 The compositions according to the invention can also be provided as brightening agents (hereinafter also referred to as bleaching agents) and / or as colorants. Agents which simultaneously dye and brighten are also referred to as lightening dyes.

 Brightening agents according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid carriers. As the oxidant of the present invention, hydrogen peroxide itself is preferably used. The hydrogen peroxide is used as a solution or in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide.

 Very particularly preferred according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions. The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6 to 12 percent solutions in water are used.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are formulated as bleaching agents or developers and - based on their weight - 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 25 to 7 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 6.0 Wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) included.

 In the case of oxidative dyeings, the development of the color can in principle be done with atmospheric oxygen. Preferably, however, a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired.

A further embodiment of the invention is therefore an agent which additionally contains an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds. Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are, in particular, the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and also sodium borate.

 Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as oxidizing agent. The amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 6% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.

 If additional oxidizing agents are used, the actual colorant is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing a preparation according to the invention comprising at least one coloring compound in a cosmetic carrier and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide. The agent according to the invention may contain the plant fatty acid triglycerides in the preparation with the coloring compounds and / or in the oxidizing agent preparation. The preparation with the coloring compounds preferably contains the vegetable fatty acid triglyceride.

 The compositions of the invention contain as a care substance for improving the fiber structure, namely to prevent or compensate for moisture loss and to improve the mechanical properties, in particular to prevent or compensate for spasm of the keratinic fibers and for the protection of the scalp at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).

In the formula for the structural unit (I), X and Y independently of one another represent a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms. Preferred radicals X and Y are unsubstituted, ie they are preferably pure hydrocarbon radicals. Among these, the linear hydrocarbon radicals are preferred, ie preferred radicals X and Y are independently selected from -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2-, - (CH 2) 3, - (CH 2) 4, - (CH 2) 5 , - (CH2) 6-, - (CH2) 7- or - (CH2) s-. X is particularly preferably one of the groupings -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2 - or - (CH 2) 3 - and Y is one of the groupings -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2 or - (CH 2) 3 -, that preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formula (1-1) to (I-9)

in which

 R 1 represents a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

 m stands for an integer between 2 and 200.

 Very particularly preferably, X = - (CH 2) 2 - and Y = -CH 2 -, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formula (I-4).

The radical R 1 is a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-polybutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical. R1 is preferably selected from - CH3, -CH2CH3, CH2CH (CH3) 2 and -CH2OH, so that preferred inventive Compositions contain at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formula (1-10) to (I-45)

where m is an integer between 2 and 200.

Very particular preference is given to R1 = -CH (CH3) 2, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer which contains structural units of the formula (Ia)

contains, where m stands for an integer between 2 and 200.

The copolymers b) present in the agents according to the invention additionally contain structural units of the formula (II)

in which p stands for an integer from 1 to 30, preferably for 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18, and n stands for integers between 2 and 200.

R 3 preferably represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or isobutyl radical, very particularly preferably R 3 = -CH 2 CH (CH 3) 2, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer, the structural units of the formula (IIa)

contains, in which n is an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.

 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer b) which contains structural units of the formula (Ia) and / or structural units of the formula (IIa)

enthält, in der m und n unabhängig voneinander für eine ganze Zahl zwischen 2 und 200 und p für die Zahl 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14, 15 oder 16, vorzugsweise für 14, steht.

in which m and n independently of one another are an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.

 The block copolymers b) present in the agents according to the invention may contain, in addition to blocks of structural units of the formulas (I) and (II), further structural blocks. Preference is given to further blocks of polydimethylsiloxane which can terminate or separate the blocks from structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).

 The copolymer (s) b) is preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of up to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and in particular 1 From 0 to 3.0% by weight of the silicone block copolymer (s) b). Particularly preferred copolymers (e) b) are designated according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) as bis-isopropylamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer. Another object of the present invention is therefore a composition for color change keratinischer fibers containing

a) at least one compound from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, hydrogen peroxide or mixtures thereof b) at least one compound having the INCI name bis-isopropylamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer. It has been found that an addition of butyloctanol can stabilize the copolymer (e) b) in the composition according to the invention, so that the care effects are further enhanced. Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight of 2-butyloctan-1-ol (INCI name: butyloctanol).

 The care effects of the copolymer (s) are further enhanced by the addition of a nonionic surfactant polysorbate 20. Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% polysorbate 20 included.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silicone block copolymer (s) b), quaternary ammonium compound (s) c), butyloctanol and polysorbate 20 as a conditioner combination.

Another obligatory component of the conditioner combination according to the invention is quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. There are three different types of quaternary ammonium compounds and their subgroups, namely:

 • linear alkylammonium compounds

 alkyltrimethylammonium,

 dialkyldimethylammonium

 benzalkonium,

 esterquats

 - Ethoxylated QAC

 • imidazolium compounds

 • pyridinium compounds

 From this large number of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable and are used in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.

Quaternary ammonium compounds preferred according to the invention are selected from at least one of the groups

 - Cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid, and / or

- the ester quats and / or

in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or

 the amines and / or cationized amines and / or

 - Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) and / or

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium-24 and / or Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 and / or

 cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or

 - cationised honey and / or

 cationic guar derivatives and / or

 - Chitosan and / or

 polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or

 - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino alkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or

 - Vinylpyrrolidone -Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

 in particular of cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride. Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -1) form the first group.

In the formula (Tkatl), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally with a or multiple hydroxy groups. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates. Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

 Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form a preferred group.

 Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

 a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

 the radical (--X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Where X stands for:

 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,

and R4 stands for:

1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may optionally further be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or

 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

(Tkat1 -2.1 ) Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the functional betaine esters.

(Tkat1 -2.1)

 R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

 Particularly preferred are the esterquats with the trade names Armocare® VGH-70, and Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131.

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

 (Tkat2)

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 Carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.

 In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

R1 - NH - (CH ₂₎ n - N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3)

wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

 1) hydrogen or

 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

 A is an anion as previously described and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

 Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

 The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE. Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers. The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium , or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

 From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:

 Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH 2 - [CR 1 COO- (CH 2) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4]} n X-,

where R1 = -H or -CH3, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from C1-4-

Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. In the context of this

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions are: R1 is a methyl group, R2, R3 and R4 are methyl groups, m is 2.

 Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma). The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96. Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R _a RbR _c A ^"

 G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

 B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , Rb and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , Rb and R _{c is} preferably at most 20;

A ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Other cationic celluloses are Polymer JR ^® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

 Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationised honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50,

 - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat®100

 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers with the INCI name Polyquaternium-7,

 Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,

 quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, for example

 Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer sold under the trade names Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734 by Gaf Co., USA and the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1,

 - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

 - and the polymers known as polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium 18 and polyquaternium-27, with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain,

 - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the

 Designation Aquaflex® SF 40 are offered.

 Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

 (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

 R1-CH = CR2-CO-Z- (CnH2n) -N (+) R2R3R4 A (-) (monol)

in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and A ( -) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),

wherein R6 and R7 independently of one another represent a (C1 to C4) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

 A- is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

 R8-CH = CR9-COOH (mono3)

in which R8 and R9 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups. Particularly preferred are those polymers employing monomers of type (i) wherein R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A (-) is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

 Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).

 In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer

(Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)

(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

wherein R 10 and R 1 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) alkyl group.

 Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia, under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).

 The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

 The aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any combination with each other.

 A preferred composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one quaternary ammonium compound c) from at least one of the groups

 i) Cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid, and / or

 ü) the esterquats and / or

 Iii) of the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder A

in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or

 iv) the amines and / or cationized amines and / or

 v) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium-24 and / or Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 and / or

 vii) cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

 viii) cationised honey and / or

 ix) cationic guar derivatives and / or

 x) Chitosam and / or

 xi) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or

 xii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or

 xiii) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers and / or xiv) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

 in particular of cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride,

contains.

 Another preferred composition according to the invention is characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound c) is selected from at least one of the groups of cationic surfactants consisting of

 Cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid, and / or

 ) of the esterquats and / or

 ) of the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

 in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iv) the amines and / or cationized amines,

 in particular of cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride,

or any mixtures thereof. Another object of the present invention is therefore a composition for color change keratinischer fibers, characterized in that they

 at least one compound from the group of the oxidation dye precursors, the direct dyes or mixtures thereof

 at least one compound having the INCI name bis-isopropylamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer

 at least one quaternary ammonium compound from the group of cationic surfactants, in particular cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid contains.

 The quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) are in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-% based on the total composition.

 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the ratio of the weight proportions of polymer (e) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) is between 1:10 and 10: 1, preferably between 1: 6 and 6: 1, and particularly preferred between 1: 3 and 3: 1.

 The use of the care substance combination consisting of polymer (e) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) has proved to be advantageous for the cosmetic property and the storage stability of the compositions according to the invention.

Finally, a most preferred optional ingredient of the compositions of the invention is a nonionic and / or anionic surfactant. In the compositions according to the invention, these surfactants contribute significantly to improving the adhesion of the active ingredients to the keratinic fiber.

 Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acids having 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

 A further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the agent contains as additional anionic surfactant at least one ether carboxylic acid of the formula RO (CH 2 CH 2 O) xCH 2 COOH and / or one of its physiologically acceptable salts, wherein R is a C 6 -C 20 -alkyl chain and x = 0 or a number from 1 to 16.

Examples of preferred compounds of the polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acid type are sold under the trade names Akypo TEC (INCI name: Oleth-10 Carboxylic Acid, Capryleth-9 Carboxylic Acid, Hexeth-4 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo RLM 38 (INCI name: LAURETH-5 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo RO 90 (INCI name: Oleth-10 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo Soft 100 (INCI name: Sodium Laureth-1 1 carboxylate), Akypo RO 20 (INCI name: Oleth-3 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo Soft 45 HP (INCI name: Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate) or Akypo RLM 45 (INCI). Name: Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid).

Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants are adducts of polyethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, particular preference being given to addition products of polyethylene oxide onto fatty alcohols which have an average degree of ethoxylation of from 10 to 45, in particular from 12 to 30, for example steareth-20, coceth-15, oleth-20 or also ceteareth-30, as well as alkylpolyglucosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _n , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and n is the number of sugar units.

A further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the agent as additional nonionic surfactant at least one alkyl polyglucoside of the formula R'0- (Z) _n , wherein R 'is a Cio-C2o-alkyl chain, Z is a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 15.

 Examples of such compounds bear the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Cetearyl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.

 Agents preferred according to the invention contain as nonionic surfactant the adduct of coconut fatty alcohol with (poly) glucose, which is known by the INCI name Coco-Glucoside. Such a product is sold, inter alia, under the trade name Lamesoft PO 65 (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua).

 Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain, based on their total weight, at least one surfactant selected from the nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-%.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the agents, if appropriate also preparation containing coloring compounds, and / or the oxidizing agent preparations of oxidative colorants contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP), aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylenetriaminepenta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (Tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali phosphates (sodium phosphate), and phosphoric acid. According to the invention, the agents preferably contain complexing agents of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention. The agents according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations. The means should be formulated so that the agent can be well applied and distributed well on the one hand, on the other hand, however, is sufficiently viscous that the agent remains at the site of action during the exposure time and does not run.

 It has therefore proved to be advantageous according to the invention, when agents contain at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used. Preferably, the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer. Preferred anionic polymers are acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers which are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent, are included. Further preferably, the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group are bonded via a C 1 -C 4 -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Such polymers can also be used as copolymers with nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ester. Nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone, are also useful as thickeners of the invention. Preference is furthermore given to using naturally occurring, optionally modified thickening agents. These include e.g. Guar gums, scleroglucangums or xanthan gums, vegetable gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses. As inorganic thickeners, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the invention. In particular clays, preferably magnesium aluminum silicates, such as, for example, bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic sheet silicates are preferred.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic polymers, anionic polymers, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, fiber-structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, defoamers such as silicones, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, drugs such as amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates, polyphenols and (pseudo) ceramides, panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, Pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of the groups A, B3, Bs, β, C, E, F and H, plant extracts, fats and waxes such as beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments, brightening agents ( such as sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate), propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air and antioxidants.

 The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schräder, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

 For the sake of fiber preservation, it is desirable if the means for changing the color of the hair have a neutral pH as possible. For improved color formation, however, an alkaline pH is advantageous. A further preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 6.0 and 12.0, preferably between 7.0 and 1 1, 5, particularly preferably between 8.0 and 1 1, 0 , For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C. Usually, the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters. In order to adjust the pH, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying and alkalizing agents. The alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, for example citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids. Alkaliating agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol, triethanolamine, ammonia, 1-aminopropane - 2-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.

The preparation of the color change agents according to the invention is subject in principle to no restrictions. The agents according to the invention can be formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed immediately before use with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent. However, it has also proven to be preferred in some cases when the product is formulated as a 2-component agent. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. According to the invention, it does not initially matter which of the components according to the invention is packaged separately.

 Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers, and wherein a container contains a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least a coloring compound, in particular an oxidation dye precursor and additionally containing at least one fatty acid triglyceride, and a further container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.

The ready-to-use colorant preferably has a pH of between 5.0 and 12.0, preferably between 6.0 and 11.0.

 A further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising at least two separately assembled containers, wherein

(I) a container (I) as a dye preparation a means of the first subject of the invention

(ii) and another container (II) containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

 The preparations of the multicomponent packaging unit are contained in separately packaged containers. For the purposes of the present invention, container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings. The wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.

 It may be advantageous according to the invention if the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioning agent. In addition, the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

 The compositions according to the invention, if appropriate after mixing with an oxidizing agent preparation, are used in processes for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and preferably human hair.

Such processes for dyeing human hair are characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to the hair according to the above instructions for an exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 55 minutes, most preferably 5 to 45 minutes, and in particular from 10 to 30 minutes, is left on the hair, and then the hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures for the color change of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

 With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.

 By using the composition according to the invention for the oxidative dyeing of human hair, an improved hair surface is achieved over comparable oxidative coloring agents. Similarly, a comparatively reduced hair structure damage, an improved hair surface and thus an improved color retention and the improved homogeneity of the dyeing are observed.

 Another subject of the invention is therefore the use of mixtures of polymer (s) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c)

 for reducing the damage to the hair structure in the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, whereby no or only minimal color shift is caused,

 to increase the color retention and washout resistance of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers

 to improve the gloss of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers to protect the keratinic fibers from oxidative damage

 to improve the combability of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers to improve the feel of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers to improve the static properties of dyed or bleached keratin

Fibers.

 A further subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the hair surface, for reducing the damage to the hair structure in the oxidative change of keratin fibers, with no or only a minimal color shift is caused, and colored or bleached keratinischer to increase the color retention and washout fibers.

 With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.

The following tables contain examples of compositions according to the invention. All numerical values are, unless stated otherwise, the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition:

 1 2 3 4 5

Compound a) ^* 0.001 to 5 0.01 to 5 0.05 to 5 0, 1 to 4 0.5 to 3

Polymer b) 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0, 1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3

Quaternary 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0, 1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3

Ammonium compound c)

Other Ingredients add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 ^* Compound a) in this table, as in each of the following tables, corresponds to at least one compound from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes or mixtures thereof.

26 27 28 29 30

Compound a) ^* 0.001 to 5 0.01 to 5 0.05 to 5 0.1 to 4 0.5 to 3

Bis-isopropylamino-PG-0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3 propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14

 copolymer

Cetrimonium chloride 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3 Butyloctanol 0.001 to 8 0.005 to 6 0.05 to 4 0.1 to 2 0.5 to 2

Other Ingredients add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

41 42 43 44 45

Compound a) ^* 0.001 to 5 0.01 to 5 0.05 to 5 0.1 to 4 0.5 to 3

Bis-isopropylamino-PG-0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3 propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14

 copolymer

 Cetrimonium chloride 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3

Butyloctanol 0.001 to 8 0.005 to 6 0.05 to 4 0.1 to 2 0.5 to 2

Polysorbate 20 0.001 to 8 0.005 to 6 0.05 to 4 0.1 to 2 0.5 to 2

Surfactant / emulsifier 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 5 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3

Hydrogen peroxide 0.5 to 15 0.75 to 10 1 to 7.5 1, 25 to 7 1, 5 to 6

Other Ingredients add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Claims

claims: Composition for the color change of keratinous fibers, containing in a suitable cosmetic carrier  a) at least one compound from the group of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes or mixtures thereof  b) at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II)

 in which  X represents a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms,  Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms,  R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,  R 3 represents -H, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,  p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18  m and n are integers between 2 and 200,  c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone block copolymer b), the structural units of the formula (Ia) and / or structural units of the formula (IIa)

(IIa) in which m and n independently of one another are an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.  3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it - based on their total weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-% of / the silicone block copolymer (s) b) contains. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one quaternary ammonium compound c) from at least one of the groups  i) Cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid, and / or  ii) the esterquats and / or  iii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

 in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or  iv) the amines and / or cationized amines and / or  v) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium-24 and / or Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 and / or  vii) cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or  viii) cationised honey and / or  ix) cationic guar derivatives and / or  x) Chitosam and / or  xi) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or  xii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or  xiii) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers and / or xiv) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, in particular of cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride, contains. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound c) is selected from at least one of the groups of cationic surfactants consisting of  i) Cetrimonium chloride and / or Behentrimoniumchlorid, and / or  ii) the esterquats and / or  iii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

 in which the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically tolerable anion, and / or iv) the amines and / or cationized amines,  in particular of cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride,  or any mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - based on their total weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-% of the quaternary ammonium compound (s) c). 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the  Ratio of the proportions by weight of polymer (s) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) is between 1:10 and 10: 1, preferably between 1: 6 and 6: 1, and particularly preferably between 1: 3 and 3: 1. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it - based on their total weight - 0.001 to 8 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 6 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight of 2-butyloctan-1-ol (INCI name: butyloctanol). 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it further comprises, based on its total weight, at least one surfactant selected from the nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-%.  10. A composition for changing the color of keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they  at least one compound from the group of the oxidation dye precursors, the direct dyes or mixtures thereof  at least one compound having the INCI name bis-isopropylamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer.  at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the cationic surfactants, in particular cetrimonium chloride and / or behentrimonium chloride,  contains. 1. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component and / or at least one coupler component, wherein preferred developer components are selected from toluenes-2,5-diamines sulfates, 1-hydroxyethyl 4, 5-diamino-pyrazole sulfates, 4-amino-m-cresol, and preferred coupler components are selected from m-aminophenol,  1-naphthol, resorcinol, 6-methoxy-2-methylamino-3-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethyl-amino-anisole sulfate. 12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that it contains at least one substantive dye which is selected from  Nitrophenylendiaminen, Nitroaminophenolen, Azofarbstoffen, Anthrachinonen or  Indophenols, preferably from under the international name or  Trade name known dye HC Yellow 2 and 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol. 13. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is formulated as Blondiermittel or developer and - based on their total weight - 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 25 to 7 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) contains. 14. Use of mixtures of polymer (s) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) according to any one of claims 1 to 13  to reduce the damage to the hair structure in the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, wherein no or only a minimal color shift is caused, and / or to increase the color retention and washout resistance of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers and / or to improve the gloss of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers and / or  to protect the keratinic fibers from oxidative damage and / or to improve the combability of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers and / or  to improve the feel of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers and / or to improve the static properties of dyed or bleached keratinic fibers. 15. A process for the color change of human hair is characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to the hair according to one of claims 1 to 13, for an exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 2 to 55 minutes, most preferably from 5 to 45 minutes, and especially 10 to 30 minutes, is left on the hair, and then the hair is rinsed out.