Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
  • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition
• a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic aerogel particles and at least one ether of polyol and of polyalkylene glycols.
• the invention also relates to a method for caring for and/or making up the skin, comprising the topical application of the composition to the skin.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making the skin matt and/or for reducing its shininess, comprising the topical application to the said skin of the abovementioned composition.
• the shininess of the skin is a problem essentially affecting adolescents but which can also appear in adulthood as a result in particular of an overproduction of androgens or of external factors, such as pollution.
• the shininess of the skin can also be linked to sweat resulting from physical activity or weather conditions.
• the shininess of the skin can be due to the combination of the two phenomena (sebum and sweat).
• Shiny skin also generally gives rise to poorer staying power of the make-up, which thus has a tendency to deteriorate during the day.
• "sebum regulators" that is to say agents which are capable of aiding in regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands by means of an action which can be described as biological
• an efficient means for rapidly reducing awkward shininess areas consists in using "soft-focus" fillers.
• the use of fillers which absorb sebum and perspiration is also a means for prolonging the mattness over time. It is known practice to use perlite (FR 2 881 643), fumed fillers (EP 1 637 186) or fibres as mattifying agents.
• these fillers can provide adverse results, in particular pilling on the skin and/or a perception of unclean skin. It is thus sought to limit the filler content.
• the need also remains to obtain a stable aqueous composition comprising hydrophobic aerogel particles well dispersed in the composition and having very good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness and spreading.
• the Applicant Company has discovered that this need can be satisfied by combining, in a composition, at least hydrophobic aerogel particles and at least one ether of polyol and of polyalkylene glycols.
• the composition is homogeneous and stable.
• Skin treated with these compositions has a soft and clean feel with a sensation of bare skin, without filler. Furthermore, the users experience a sensation of firmness and comfort.
• composition thus obtained also makes it possible to improve the mattness of the skin in a long-lasting fashion.
• the skin thus remains durably matt.
• Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials.
• the first aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid the contraction of the pores and of the material.
• Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials starting from gel, namely freeze drying, which consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and in then subliming the solvent, and drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are referred to respectively as cryogels and xerogels.
• the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
• the aerogel particles in accordance with the present invention are hydrophobic aerogel particles.
• hydrophobic aerogel particles is understood to mean any particle of the aerogel type exhibiting a water absorption capacity at the wet point of less than 0.1 ml/g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle.
• the wet point corresponds to the amount of water which needs to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
• This method is derived directly from the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in Standard NF T 30-022. The measurements are taken in the same way via the wet point and the flow point, which respectively have the following definitions: wet point: weight, expressed in grams per 100 g of product, corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.
• the wet point is measured according to the following protocol:
• the glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of aerogel is weighed out.
• the beaker containing the solvent and the liquid sampling pipette is placed on the balance.
• the solvent is gradually added to the powder, the whole being evenly kneaded (every 3 to 4 drops) with the spatula.
• the weight of solvent required to reach the wet point is noted. The mean of three tests will be determined.
• the hydrophobic aerogels used according to the present invention can be organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid aerogels.
• the organic aerogels can be based on resins from among the following: polyurethanes, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol, cresol-formaldehyde, phenol-furfuranol, polybutadiene, melamine-formaldehyde, phenol-furfural, polyimides, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, phenol-formaldehyde, polyvinyl alcohol, dialdehydes, polycyanurates, epoxys, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, chitosan, agar, agarose, alginate, starches and their mixtures.
• resins from among the following: polyurethanes, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol, cresol-formaldehyde, phenol-furfuranol, polybutadiene, melamine-formalde
• Aerogels based on organic-inorganic hybrids for example silica-PMMA, silica- chitosan and silica-polyether, are also envisaged.
• Patent Applications US2005/0192366 and WO 2007126410 describe such organic-inorganic hybrid materials.
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (Sw) ranging from 200 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 ⁇ and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
• Sw surface per unit of weight
• D[0.5] volume-average diameter
• the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
• BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
• the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
• the sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
• the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
• This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
• This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (Sw) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ and better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously exhibit a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
• this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density protocol :
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
• the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
• the aerogel particles used are inorganic and are more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibiting the properties stated above.
• Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (in particular by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
• the hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silica silylate aerogels (INCI name: silica silylate).
• hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
• silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
• hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit a mean size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
• Aerogel MT 1 100 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Cabot, the particles of which exhibit a mean size ranging from 2-25 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
• the hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1 % to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1 .5% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the ethers of polyol and of polyalkylene glycols are of formula (I):
• Z represents a radical obtained by removal of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups
• AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms
• EO represents an oxyethylene group
• BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms
• I, m and n respectively represent the mean number of moles of AO, EO and BO units and 1 ⁇ I ⁇ 50, 1 ⁇ m ⁇ 50 and 0.5 ⁇ n ⁇ 5;
• AO/EO the ratio by weight of AO to EO
• Use may be made, in the composition according to the invention, of one oxyalkylenated derivative or of a mixture of identical or different oxyalkylenated derivatives.
• Z represents a radical obtained by removal of one or more hydroxyl groups from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a represents the number of hydroxyl groups of the derivative and ranges from 3 to 9.
• Z represents a radical obtained by removal of hydroxyl group(s) from a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and 3 ⁇ a ⁇ 6. Mention may be made, as preferred compounds comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, of glycerol or trimethylolpropane and in particular of glycerol.
• a is less than or equal to 2
• the compatibility between the oxyalkylenated compound and the fatty phase of the composition, such as oils and fatty substances, is low and the stability of the mixture in oil-based formulations is affected.
• AO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms.
• AO can, for example, represent an oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene (oxy-n- butylene, oxyisobutylene or oxy-t-butylene) group, an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group or a mixture.
• AO is preferably chosen from oxypropylene and/or oxybutylene groups and more preferably from oxypropylene groups.
• 1 represents the mean number of moles of AO units and 1 ⁇ I ⁇ 50, preferably 2 ⁇ I ⁇ 20.
• m represents the mean number of moles of EO units and 1 ⁇ m ⁇ 50, preferably
• AO and EO units can be added randomly or in sequenced form (blocks). In order to obtain an improved effect of prevention of skin dryness, AO and EO are preferably added randomly.
• BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms and can, for example, be chosen from oxybutylene (such as oxy-n-butylene, oxy-isobutylene or oxy-t-butylene) or oxytetramethylene groups, and their mixtures.
• BO is chosen from oxybutylene groups.
• n represents the mean number of moles of BO units and 0.5 ⁇ n ⁇ 5, preferably 0.8 ⁇ n ⁇ 3 and better still 1 ⁇ n ⁇ 3.
• n is less than 0.5, a tacky effect is observed.
• n exceeds 5, the moisturizing effect decreases.
• the (BO) n units are necessarily bonded to the terminal hydrogen atom of the oxyalkylenated derivative.
• the oxyalkylenated derivatives of formula (I) can be prepared by well-known methods, such as, for example, by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide comprising from 3 to 4 carbon atoms with a compound comprising from 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, followed by reaction with an alkylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms.
• the ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide groups can be polymerized randomly or in the form of blocks.
• Gly represents a radical obtained by removal of hydroxyl groups from glycerol
• PO represents an oxypropylene group
• EO represents an oxyethylene group
• s and t respectively represent the mean number of moles of PO and EO units and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;
• the ratio by weight of PO to EO units ranges from 1/5 to 5/1 ;
• BO represents an oxyalkylene group comprising 4 carbon atoms; and
• u represents the mean number of moles of BO units and ranges from 0.5 to 5.
• the oxyalkylenated derivative of formula (II) above can be obtained by the addition polymerization of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with glycerol, in a ratio of 3 to 150 molar equivalents of each propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to the glycerol, followed by the addition of alkylene oxide comprising 4 carbon atoms in a ratio of 1 .5 to 15 molar equivalents with respect to the glycerol.
• the addition reaction of the said alkylene oxide with glycerol can be carried out in the presence of an alkaline catalyst, of a phase-transfer catalyst, of a Lewis acid catalyst, or an equivalent.
• an alkaline catalyst preferably potassium hydroxide.
• the oxyalkylenated derivative(s) of formula (I) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the ethers of polyol and of polyalkylene glycols according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight and very preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one C2-C8 polyol .
• Mention may be made, among the polyols, of glycerol, 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, 1 ,6-hexanediol or 1 ,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol).
• the preferred polyols according to the invention are in particular glycerol, 1 ,3- butanediol, 1 ,2-propanediol (propylene glycol), 1 ,2-pentanediol and 1 ,3- propanediol.
• the diols according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and very preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise a sebum-absorbing particle, in particular a particle having a sebum uptake.
• the sebum-absorbing particles have a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 10 ml/100 g, in particular of greater than or equal to 20 ml/100 g and especially of greater than or equal to 30 ml/100 g.
• the term "sebum-absorbing particle” is understood to mean a powder capable of absorbing and/or adsorbing sebum. Generally, this type of particle is provided in the form of a powder formed of particles having a sebum uptake.
• the sebum uptake corresponds to the amount of sebum absorbed and/or adsorbed by the particle. It is measured according to the wet point method described below.
• the sebum-absorbing particle can have a BET specific surface of greater than or equal to 200 m 2 /g, preferably of greater than 350 m 2 /g and preferentially of greater than 500 m 2 /g, and in particular of less than 2000 m 2 /g.
• the BET specific surface is determined according to the BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) method described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
• the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface (thus including micropores) of the particle and in particular of the powder.
• the sebum-absorbing particles can be a mineral powder or an organic powder. More specifically, the sebum-absorbing particles can be chosen from:
• - powders formed of acrylic polymers in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders,
• the sebum-absorbing particle can be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; waxes and their mixtures.
• the N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the salts of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
• the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
• alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
• silica powder of:
• - precipitated silica microspheres for example coated with mineral wax, such as polyethylene, and sold in particular under the name Acematt OK 412 by Evonik Degussa.
• Mention may be made, as nylon powder, of the nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 4000 by Atochem. Mention may be made, as powder formed of acrylic polymers, of:
• silicone elastomer powder of the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by Dow Corning.
• silica silylate powders of those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 10.40 ml/g).
• particles of this same expanded terpolymer having a particle size D(0.5) of approximately 18 ⁇ and a density of approximately 60 to 80 kg/m 3 (Expancel EL23) or with a particle size D(0.5) of approximately 34 ⁇ and a density of approximately 20 kg/m 3 .
• Expancel particles 551 DE 40 d42 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 30 to 50 ⁇ and density of approximately 42 kg/m 3 ), 551 DE 80 d42 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 50 to 80 ⁇ and density of approximately 42 kg/m 3 ), 461 DE 20 d70 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 15 to 25 ⁇ and density of approximately 70 kg/m 3 ), 461 DE 40 d25 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 35 to 55 ⁇ and density of approximately 25 kg/m 3 ), 461 DE 40 d60 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 20 to 40 ⁇ and density of approximately 60 kg/m 3 ), 461 DET 40 d25 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 35 to 55 ⁇ and density of approximately 25 kg/m 3 ), 051 DE 40 d60 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 20 to 40 ⁇ and density of approximately 60 kg/m 3 ), 091 DE 40 d30 (p
• particles of a polymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate in unexpanded form such as those sold under the brand name Expancel with the reference 551 DU 10 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 10 ⁇ ) or 461 DU 15 (particle size D(0.5) of approximately 15 ⁇ ).
• the sebum-absorbing particles which are particularly preferred are silica powders, in particular precipitated silica powders and more particularly wax- coated precipitated silicas, and expanded copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate.
• the particles exhibit a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and more preferentially still between 0.5 and 100 microns.
• the sebum-absorbing particles can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and very preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the sebum uptake of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in Standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of sebum adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder by measurement of the wet point.
• the artificial sebum is incorporated in the powder using a spatula and the addition of the artificial sebum is continued until conglomerates of artificial sebum and of powder are formed. From this point, the artificial sebum is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of artificial sebum used is then noted.
• the sebum uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
• the composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and/or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.
• the composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which is compatible with the skin and/or its superficial body growths. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which exhibits a pleasant colour, a pleasant odour and a pleasant feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tightness or redness) liable to dissuade the consumer from using this composition.
• composition according to the invention can be provided in any formulation form conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of dispersions of the lotion or gel type, of emulsions having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions having a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), of microemulsions, of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or non-ionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions.
• These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
• compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion or a serum. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol.
• the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention generally varies from 20 mPa.s to 20 Pa.s and preferably from 100 mPa.s to 2 Pa.s. This viscosity is measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 viscometer.
• the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably comprises at least one oil. It can additionally comprise other fatty substances. Mention may be made, as oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of:
• hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or also, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, gourd oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil;
• esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2, in which Ri represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates
• hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins, which are volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam oil;
• - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
• silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
• PDMSs volatile or non-vola
• hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
• the other fatty substances which can be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin wax, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-Ci -4 -alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG name by Shin- Etsu, under the Trefil, BY29 or EPSX names by Dow Corning or under the Gransil name by Grant Industries.
• These fatty substances can be chosen in a manner varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare
• the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, preferably an O/W emulsion.
• the O/W emulsion also comprises emulsified gels.
• emulsified gels is understood to mean dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel.
• surfactant is optional for this formulation form.
• the proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 2% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier.
• the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
• the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• W/O emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by Goldschmidt.
• dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning
• alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copoly
• Use may also be made, as surfactant for W/O emulsions, of a solid crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of the document US-A-5 412 004 and of the examples of the document US-A-5 81 1 487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of Patent US-A-5 412 004, and such as the product sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin-Etsu.
• a solid crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group
• O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of non-ionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG- 40 stearate.
• non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of
• the composition can be an aqueous gel and can in particular comprise common aqueous gelling agents.
• the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally glycols, ethanol and/or hydrophilic adjuvants, which may be water-soluble at ambient temperature.
• the proportion of the aqueous phase of the compositions can range from 20% to 95% by weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 9.
• the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 8.
• the composition according to the invention can be a composition for caring for, cleansing or making up the skin of the body or face, in particular a care composition.
• composition for caring for the skin can, for example, be a cream, a gel or a fluid for the face.
• composition for making up the skin can, for example, be a foundation, an eye shadow, a blusher, a concealer or a product for making up the body.
• composition according to the present invention can additionally comprise various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers; fillers; preservatives; sequestering agents; colorants; fragrances; thickeners and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic homo- and copolymers and acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) homo- and copolymers; or organic or inorganic UV-screening agents (such as the Silica (and) Titanium Dioxide Sunsil TIN 50 metapigments).
• adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field
• emulsifiers such as emulsifiers; fillers; preservatives; sequestering agents; colorants; fragrances; thickeners and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide homo- and copolymers, acrylic homo- and copolymers and acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) homo- and copolymers; or organic or inorganic
• the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one active agent for caring for greasy skin.
• This active agent is preferentially chosen from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum regulators and antioxidants. It can also comprise cosmetic active agents other than those for caring for greasy skin, such as, for example, moisturizing agents and vitamins.
• Active agent for caring for greasy skin is understood to mean a compound which intrinsically, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent in order to activate it, has a biological activity which can in particular be:
• an antimicrobial activity in particular on P. acnes
• the active agent for caring for greasy skin may thus be chosen from: desquamating agents and/or antimicrobial agents and/or anti-inflammatory agents and/or sebum regulators and/or antioxidants.
• treating agent is understood to mean any compound capable of acting:
• ⁇ -hydroxy acids in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;
• corneodesmosomes such as glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or indeed even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like).
• SCCE stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme
• trypsin, chymotrypsin-like enzymes involved in desquamation or decomposition of the corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or indeed even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like).
• SCCE stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme
• aminosulfonic compounds and in particular N-(2- hydroxyethyl)piperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4- carboxylic acid (procysteine) derivatives; derivatives of a-amino acids of glycine type (such as described in EP-0 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate, sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M); honey; or sugar derivatives, such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine.
• HPES 2-oxothiazolidine-4- carboxylic acid
• procysteine 2-oxothiazolidine-4- carboxylic acid
• derivatives of a-amino acids of glycine type such as described in EP-0 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate, sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M
• 5-(n-Octanoyl)salicylic acid is preferred for use in the present invention.
• antimicrobial agents capable of being used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen in particular from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-
• Anti-inflammatory agents Mention may be made, as anti-inflammatory or soothing agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of pentacyclic triterpenes and extracts of plants (e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra) comprising same, such as ⁇ - glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and/or its derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-(stearoyloxy)glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, bisabolol, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and/or lactiflora, salicylic acid salts and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts
• the preferred anti-inflammatory agents for use in the present invention are extracts of Centella asiatica, ⁇ -glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts, a-bisabolol and niacinamide. 4. Sebum regulators
• composition according to the invention comprises a sebum regulator, such as a 5cc-reductase inhibitor
• this agent can be chosen in particular from:
• retinoids in particular retinol
• - zinc salts such as zinc lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate and/or cysteate;
• Zinc salts are preferred for use in the present invention.
• the antioxidants which are preferred for use in the present invention can be chosen from tocopherol and its esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, BHT and BHA.
• the active agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention can represent from 0.01 % to 50%, preferably from 0.1 % to 25% and better still from 0.5% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
• the invention concerns also a cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up the skin, comprising the topical application, to the skin, of the composition according to the invention. More specifically, it is a method for making the skin matt and/or for reducing its shininess.
• to mattify is understood to mean to make the skin more matt and to reduce its shininess and thus its unsightly reflections.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for caring for combination skin and/or greasy skin.
• a cream in the form of an oil/water emulsion for caring for the face was prepared, which cream has the following composition:
• This composition is fluid and stable.
• the silica aerogel particles are finely dispersed. This composition can be applied in the morning and/or evening to the face to make combination skin and greasy skin matt.
• a cream in the form of an oil/water emulsion for caring for the face was prepared, which cream has the following composition:
• This example shows that the presence of an oxyalkylenated derivative according to the invention makes it possible to limit the appearance of the phenomenon of pilling of the composition after application to the skin.

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• 2012
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