WO2013189060A1

WO2013189060A1 - Cosmetic composition and method for using thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2013189060A1
Application number: PCT/CN2012/077307
Authority: WO
Inventors: Haiquan LU; Yue Wang; Xinrong LI; Jerome Senee
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2012-06-21
Filing date: 2012-06-21
Publication date: 2013-12-27
Anticipated expiration: 2014-12-21
Also published as: CN109998934A; CN104363882A; WO2013189060A8; ZA201409029B; BR112014031423A2

Description

Cosmetic composition and method for using thereof

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, the hair and the nails. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratin materials using said composition.

In the field of cosmetic skin care compositions, it is known practice to use organic waxes that absorb sebum and perspiration, in order to mattify the skin and/or optically smooth the microrelief and camouflage the imperfections of the skin.

However, the use of these waxes is generally accompanied by a dry, rough feel and a lack of >umiui i ιι ισι ι ui ια σμιαυισ u ic u ci . , i iiyi i υυι ι σι in cmwi i ui n ισ vvaAca icau. the composition unstable due to the growth of the size of the crystals over time.

Fatty acids are also widely used as a mattifying agent because they make it possible to obtain a soft feel on the skin, but they must be used at a relatively high content in order to have the mattifying effect, which constitutes a restraint in the choice of the texture, the stability of the composition, and moreover the cost of the formulation.

However, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions that are mattifying and/or that make it possible to mask skin imperfections, which have good cosmetic properties, in particular which are soft on application, stable over time, and less restrictive in terms of cost.

The Applicant has discovered that this need can be met by combining in a composition, waxes chosen from fatty acids having C16 to C18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

More specifically, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of:

- at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; and

- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm. The mixture thereof makes it possible to obtain compositions that are comfortable and soft on application, having mattifying and soft-focus properties. It also meets the demand of stability over time.

Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of:

- at least one wax containing at least one fatty acid having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof;

hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μιη; and

- at least one white pigment.

The mixture thereof makes it possible to obtain a composition that is mattifying and soft-focus, having a whitening effect due to the reduction of the visibility of the imperfection on the skin, and at the same time, giving a bare skin appearance.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be any type of cosmetic composition such as a foundation, a face powder, an eye shadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, an eyeliner, a mascara, a body makeup product, a skin colouring product, a care product such as a care cream, a tinted cream or an antisun product, preferably a care product such as a care cream.

The mixture of the invention is advantageously in the form of gel or cream.

Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition as defined above to said materials.

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

Waxes:

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C (see for eg. Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Waxes" Uwe Wolfmeier et al.; http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/14356007.a28_103/pdf; Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a28_103; 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim; DO!: 10.1002/14356007.a28_103)

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point above 40 °C without decomposition especially a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

According to an embodiment of the invention the melt viscosity of the waxes must not exceed 10 000 mPa . s at 10 °C above the drop point

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The latter can be natural waxes, partially synthetic waxes or fully synthetic waxes (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Waxes" ibid).

Thus, by virtue of the fluid nature of the wax at high temperature, it is easier to mix, manipulate and condition the composition according to the invention at such a temperature.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains, preferably Ci₆ to Ci₈ chains. Among which, mention may be made especially of stearic acid, palmitic acid, or a mixture thereof. The fatty acids used in the current invention are commercially available under the trade names, for example, AEC Stearic Acid sold by A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd., Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, Palmitic Acid PC sold by Protameen Chemicals, Inc.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is an olefin wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P^® by the company Koster Keunen.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax chosen from fatty acids having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise from 6% to 18% by weight and preferably from 7% to 10% by weight of wax(es) relative to the total weight of the said composition.

Hydrophobic silica aerogels:

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a siiica gei with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid; the one most commonly used being supercritical C0₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol -gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m₂/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m₂/g and better still from 600 to 800 m₂/g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5j), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett- Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,

L-I^ l I I Ct UCI II iy u \Jl i n , wi ια^ι^ι g ϋ anu ι v , v γ , i ^w w i wi ft, i ■ .

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μι^η and better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density r) ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol;

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume S ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = S_M.r where r is the tamped density expressed in g/cm³ and S_M is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil - absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g. The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

An amount = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oii is continued untii a conglomerate of oii and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles that have been surface- modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups .

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (I NCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The silica aerogel particles in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 % to 1% by weight and more preferentially from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

W . hite n—i■n—mentg■='·

The particular pigment(s) used in the composition according to the invention denotes a mineral or organic particle which is insoluble in an aqueous solution, said particle being white, spherical or non-spherical and porous or non-porous, and having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6, in particular greater than or equal to 1.8, preferably ranging from 1.6 to 2.5.

The "pigments" according to the invention have a size by volume of preferably less than 15 μιη, in particular less than 10 μιη. In particular, the "pigments" according to the invention have a size by volume of more than 200nm, preferably more than 500nm, and preferably less than 15 m, in particular less than 10 pm.

In particular, said pigments are in the form of a white powder.

The term "white" is intended to mean in particular white and derivatives thereof (off-white, alabaster white, silver white, etc.) or with a silvery, white tint, as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.

In particular, the "white" pigments have a luminance value L close to 100 in the TSL (tint, saturation, luminance) system.

The colorimetric measurements L^* and C^* in the CIE Lab 1976 colorimetric space may be performed using a MINOLTA CR400^® colorimetric chromameter.

To do this, the pigment is pre-dispersed (grinded with tricylinder) in a transparent cosmetic medium in a % able to confere opacity (ex: 5-6% of pigment) and then introduced into a 15 ml jar (aperture diameter : 1 ,9 cm ; depth : 1 ,8 cm). The surface of the cosmetic medium introduced is smoothed out by flattening with a glass slide. The colorimeter cell is then placed in contact with this surface and the co!orimetric parameters are determined.

The MINOLTA CR400^® colorimetric chromameter is calibrated with a white reference (white ceramic for calibration such as Spectralon) with lighthness L* value of 100 and saturation C^* value of 0, and a trap light.

According to a particular embodiment, the 'white' pigments of the invention will have in particular lightness L* value superior or equal to 95 and saturation C* value inferior or equal to 3 according to the previous disclosed protocol.

Thus, the composition of the invention comprises at ieast one pigment in the form of a porous or non-porous, spherical or non-spherical, mineral or organic white particle having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6 and a size by volume of preferably less than 15 μιη, in particular size by volume of more than 200nm, preferably of more than 500nm, and less than 15 μηι.

Said pigments (i) are in particular chosen from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, optionally dispersed bismuth oxychloride, insoluble barium salts, in particular barium sulphate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, plaster, natural powders of mineral, animal or vegetable origin, chalk powder, gypsum powder, alabaster powder or selenite powder, egg-shell or shellfish powders, vegetable ivory, and mixtures thereof.

Bismuth oxychloride can be used as it is (in powder form) or advantageously in the form of a dispersion in an ester oil, chosen in particular from isodecyl neopentanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride comprises 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Biron^® Liquid Silver by the company MERCK.

According to one alternative, use may also be made, as white pigments (i), of white-tinted interference pigments, such as fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide, for instance those sold under the name SYNCRYSTAL SILVER by the company ECKART, which are distinct from interference pigments with a non-white coloured tint, such as, in particular, the Timiron Silk Blue mica/titanium oxide/tin oxide blue-tinted pearlescent ar yt-a te

According to one particular embodiment, said pigments (i) are white-tinted interference pigments.

According to another particular embodiment, said pigments (i) are chosen from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, optionally dispersed bismuth oxychloride, insoluble barium salts, in particular barium sulphate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, plaster, natural powders of mineral, animal or vegetable origin, chalk powder, gypsum powder, alabaster powder or selenite powder, egg-sheii or sheiifish powders, vegetable ivory and mixtures thereof, preferably from titanium oxides, zinc oxides and mixtures thereof, and are not interference pigments.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises as pigments (i), at least titanium oxides and optionnally in association white-tinted interference pigments.

Not included in the definition of pigments (i) according to the invention are titanium oxides encapsulated in silica particles, such as particles of porous silica comprising titanium dioxides, in particular sold under the name God Ball PC-LS by the company Suzuki Oil and Fat or PC-LS-14 by MIYOSHI KASEI.

Preferably, the pigments (i) are chosen from coated or uncoated titanium oxides of rutile or anatase form.

Thus, according to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least coated or uncoated titanium oxides of rutile or anatase form.

The pigments used according to the invention may or may not be totally or partially surface- treated with at least one hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent.

For the purpose of the invention, the surface treatment of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes total or partial surface treatment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to techniques for surface treatment of chemical, electronic, rnechanochemica! or mechanical nature that are we!! known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or creation of a covalent bond.

The surface treatment can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The surface treatment can be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent at the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of said surface agent, optionally under hot conditions, prior to the incorporation of said pigments into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The surface treatment can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is in particular described in patent US 4 578 266.

The chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, in dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then in slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, such that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments. This volatile solvent may be water.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments according to the invention can be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; vegetable or animal natural waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the pigments are surface -treated with fluorinated surface agent, in particular fluoroalcohol surface agent, or fluoroalkyl surface agent.

According to one preferred embodiment, the pigment that may be used in the present invention is Titanium Dioxide be surface treated by Fluoroalcohol phosphate. Such pigments are, for example, commercially available under the trade name Tudor Aspen sold by Kingfisher Colours Ltd., or AC series sold by Active Concepts LLC. Hvdrophilic treatment agent

ί n tha ninmontc Ka .trootaH /ith iat lodct no hydrophilic treatment agent chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives. Mention may also be made of mineral agents such as silica, silicates, alumina and mixtures thereof (for example: silica/alumina).

By way of examples of biological polymers for coating the materials to be solubilized according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type, in particular those derived from algae, from land plants, from fungi or from biotechnologies, from plankton or from arthropod shells. More particularly, mention may be made of guar gum, locust bean gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, scierotium gum; konjac, carrageenans, alginates and derivatives thereof, pectins, agar-agar; glycogen; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof;

ιαι , derivatives thereof; soluble proteoglycans; glycosaminoglycans, chitins, chitosans and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

C1-C20 glycol alkylenes or C1-C20 glycol alkylene ethers, alone or used in combination with tri- C-i-C2o-alkylsilanes, can also be used as surface-treatment agents. By way of examples, mention may be made of pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, for instance the pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by the company KOBO under the name "SW" pigments.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides, in particular ΤΊΟ2 which are surface-treated with alumina/silica/trimethylolpropane, sold under the names Tipaque PF671 from Ishihara Sangyo and SA-TAO from Myoshi Kasei.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one bismuth oxychloride optionally dispersed in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Biron^® Liquid Silver by the company MERCK.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide, such as those sold under the name SYNCRYSTAL SILVER by the company ECKART. Said pigments (i) are generally present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight (of active materia! for the case where the pigment is dispersed in a vehicle or coated), relative to the total weight of said composition.

In the case of white-tinted interference pigments (i), as is the case of the fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide mentioned above, they will preferably be present in the composition in an amount of less than or equal to 2% by weight, especially less than or equal to 1% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Adjuvants:

In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of glycerol and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, which are optionally polyoxyethylenated, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters or ethers of sugars such as sucrose or glucose; thickeners and/or gelling agents, in particular polyacrylamides, acrylic homopolymers and copolymers, and acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymers and copolymers, and also lipid vesicles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.5% to 3% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the mattifying/soft focus properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

In the patent application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, the contents are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition. The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. AN the parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis and all the measurements were obtained at about 25°C, unless otherwise mentioned.

Examples

Example 1 : invention formula 1

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D, E.

Example 2: invention formula 2

Procedure: - Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C,

Cooi down to 30-35°C, add phase D, E.

Example 3: Compamtive formula 1

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D.

Example 4: Comparative formula 2

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C, - Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D.

Example 5: Comparative formula 3

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 70-75°C, add phase B,

- Cool down to 30-35°C.

Example 7: Comparative test

The anti-shine effect of examples 1 to 6 are tested by a group of 6 panellists, by applying the examples 1 to 6 to the skin.

Anti-shine effect is scored by 0 to 5. The higher the score is, the better the anti-shine effect of the example exhibits.

Instant whitening effect of examples 1 to 6 are tested by a group of 6 panellists, by applying the examples 1 to 6 to the skin. Instant whitening effect is scored by 0 to 5. The higher the score is, the better the instant hi†oninn afford rvf tho ovamnlo ovHiKitc

As shown in the table, comparing to the comparative formula of examples 3 to 6, the composition of the current invention exhibits a much better anti-shine effect, and a better instant whitening effect.

Example 8: whitening gel cream for greasy skin

Procedure:

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

- Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 70-75°C, add phase C1 ,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase D, C2, E, F. Fvamnlp Q- whiteninn r.rpam fnr nrpasv skin

Prnnorli iro*

- Heat phase A to 80-85°C,

Add phase B into phase A, keep the temperature for 15 minutes,

- Cool down to 30-35°C, add phase C, D.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:

- at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein the wax contains at least one palmitic acid, at least one stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 6% to 18% by weight, preferably from 7% to 10% by weight of the wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size expressed as the volume-average diameter ranging from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 μηι, in particular from 1 to 30 μητι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μιη, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 μητι.

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μηι and better still from 5 to 15 pm.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a tapped density ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g of particles.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 0.6% by weight of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups; and palmitic acid, stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

13. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, comprising:

- at least one wax chosen containing at least one fatty acids having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, or a mixture thereof; and

- at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 m; and

- at least one white pigment.

1 . The cosmetic composition of claim 13, wherein the white pigment is selected from a group consisting of spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous pigment being totally or partially surface-treated with at least one hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent.

15. The cosmetic composition of any of the claims 13 or 14, wherein the white pigment Ti0₂ being totally or partially surface treated by fluorinated surface agents.

16. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one adjuvant selected from the group consisting of active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH modifiers (acidic or basic), fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colorants (pigments and dyes), film-forming polymers, emulsifiers, fatty acid esters of glycerol and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, thickeners, gelling agents, and lipid vesicles.

17. Cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition according to one of the preceding claims to said materials.