WO2013045762A1

WO2013045762A1 - Step-wise treatment method for the lips and lip area and a multicomponent composition therefor and use of the method

Info

Publication number: WO2013045762A1
Application number: PCT/FI2012/050926
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mari Rummukainen
Original assignee: Hair & Beauty Mariacos Finland Oy
Current assignee: Hair & Beauty Mariacos Finland Oy
Priority date: 2011-09-27
Filing date: 2012-09-26
Publication date: 2013-04-04
Anticipated expiration: 2014-03-27
Also published as: FI20125994L; FI20125994A7

Abstract

The invention relates to a stepwise treatment method for the lips and/or the lip area, said method being used for volumizing and/or smoothing the lips and lip area in order to provide a cosmetic effect. An essential feature of the invention is that according to step 1 the lips/lip area are cleansed and protected from UV radiation, whereupon in step 2 onto the lips/lip area is spread activatable composition providing the volumizing and/or smoothing cosmetic effect, and that during the spreading operation and/or thereafter onto the lips/lip area is performed in accordance with step 3 an absorption operation to activate the applied composition and absorb the same by light treatment at a spectral wavelength of 420 - 480 nm, and that thereupon the effect of the cosmetic treatment is maintained in accordance with step 4 by regular treatments maintaining and activating the cosmetic effect.

Description

STEP-WISE TREATMENT METHOD FOR THE LIPS AND LIP AREA AND A MULTICOMPONENT COMPOSITION THEREFOR AND USE OF THE METHOD Background of invention

The invention relates in accordance with the preamble of claim 1 to a treatment method for the lips and lip area, the method being suitable for volumizing and/or smoothing the lips and lip area in order to provide a cosmetic effect. The inven- tion also relates in accordance with the preamble of claim 8 to a composition employed in the method and use of the method in accordance with claim 10.

Prior art In the art are known plural different methods for treating the lip area (lips) in order to provide a cosmetic effect such as, e.g., volumization and/or smoothing of the lips. To this end, there are offered different kinds of light treatment methods, as well as injection treatments and various compositions suited for the treatment of lips and the lip area in general.

A problem of known solutions is that the efficacy of painless treatment techniques is not sufficiently long-lasting nor effective, and their treatment result (e.g., with regard to the absorption of lip treatment compositions) does not reach very deep from the lip surface.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a novel method and composition for treating the lips (the lip area), said method and composition being able to overcome or reduce the disadvantages of known solutions, whereby the goal is to provide an effective and functional technique for painless treatment of the lip area.

Brief description of the invention

The method according to the invention is characterized by what is stated in the characterizing part of claim . The composition according to the invention is further characterized by what is stated in claim 8. The solution according to the invention described herein provides certain significant benefits over the prior art. This now described invention provides a novel method and a compound used in the method for treating the lip area, whereby an efficient, functional and simple technique is provided for treating the lip area in order to provide a long-lasting cosmetic effect.

Detailed description of invention

In the method according to the invention for treating the lips and the lip areas, said method being used to volumize and smooth the lips/lip area in order to provide a cosmetic effect and to prevent clapping of the lips, whereby in the method the lips or the lip area are cleansed and protected against detrimental effects of light (advantageously using a composition containing spruce hardwood knot extract, e.g., GranLux® by Granula, and xylitol), whereupon onto the lips or the lip area is spread a composition that is treated by light after its application to activate the composition, and the spreadable composition used in the method is particularly a composition comprising hyaluronic acid and

Redensin (Redensin is produced by Soliance in France). An essential feature of the invention is the use of small-molecule hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and Commiphora Mukul extract as the active components. After the administration, the lips/lip area are subjected to antibacterial blue LED light (using one or more LED lamps) or a fiberoptic light illuminator tip, the

wavelength of which light is in the range of 420 - 480 nm. The light is directed onto the lips or the lip area intermittently or continuously for a desired time, e.g., 1 - 10 minutes, advantageously 2 - 7 minutes and most advantageously 5 - 7 minutes. The LED light is directed onto the lips/lip area at a radiation intensity of 500 - 600 mW/cm²

The efficiency of the method according to the invention is based on the unexpected discovery that when a composition comprising hyaluronic acid and Redensin is applied onto the lips/lip area and is further treated with blue LED light matching the antibacterial spectral range of the natural ambient light (wavelength 420 - 480 nm), the lips will become volumized and smoothed so as to provide a cosmetic effect and accelerate the healing of clapped/cracked lips. The method according to the invention makes it possible to improve the absorption of the composition of hyaluronic acid and Redensin to a deeper depth (e.g., as deep as 1.5 mm) along the lips/lip area, whereby the lips/lip area can be volumized/smoothed as a result of the swelling of the components (due to the binding of hyaluronic acid and Redensln to water/fat molecules).

Redensln will particularly bind to fat cells making them thicker, also around the skin region of the lips. In the method according to the invention, hyaluronic acid can swell up to 1000 times its own size. The composition according to the invention for treating the lips/lip area comprises hyaluronic acid and Redensln in a desired ratio.

Inasmuch as the lips lack a hydrolipid barrier, lips cannot stay in a stable state long even after the treatment according to the invention described above unless a blood-circulation enhancing composition is administered onto the lips with a simultaneous effect of protecting the lips in the same fashion as the hydrolipidic barrier. Consequently, the treatment method according to the invention also comprises a separate step for forming a hydrolipidic barrier onto the lips. An essential feature herein is that the protective effect is accomplished immediately in conjunction with the lip treatment and is maintained by regular posttreatments. To this end, the last step to maintain the effect of the treatment method is advantageously carried out as a personal home care step performed using a dedicated home care product. Thereby the blood circulation is enhanced and the lips are moisturized whereby a moisture-retaining protective barrier is formed on the lips lacking such protection. The method according to the invention is quick to carry out and its results are immediately visible. The treatment action is effective and long-lasting, advantageously about half a year and, moreover, absorption action of the application technique reaches up to the vermilion border of the lips. Prior-art absorption treatments work relatively rapidly on the lips, but their action lasts maximally for some days. Alternative kinds of product applied simply by smearing onto the lips begin to work at a delay on the lips, typically not earlier than only after about 28 days. An essential difference between the technique according to the invention and mere application of the Redensln product is therein that the Redensln product is not used in conjunction with activating light treatment. In other words, said product can be paralleled with other similar products applied simply by spreading onto the lips. An additional detail worth noticing is that the proportion of hyaluronic acid in the Redensln product is significantly minor with regard to that used in the invention. An essential feature of the invention is that a significant amount of hyaluronic acid is used and it is absorbed together with Redensln compound onto the lip area in combination with augmenting light treatment.

Subsequently, a hydrolipidic barrier is formed and maintained by regular home care steps and a home care product designed therefor.

The maintaining hydrolipidic barrier action is accomplished by a home care product associated with the invention, said product particularly containing shea butter (karite butter) that has a natural hydrolipidic effect. Shea butter is a vegetable fat obtained from the nuts of the karite tree. The composition also incorporates other treating agents such as argan oil, sea-buckthorn oil, blackcurrant seed oil, MAXI-LIP™ balm, myrrh oil.

Another solution of the prior art is disclosed in publication DE 102009014032 (Weyergans), wherein is described the use of hyaluronic acid alone in combination with treatment with halogen lamp light. The publication also fails to suggest that, prior to commencing the treatment, the lips would be protected from detrimental spectral components of the light. In contrast, the present invention includes herein an essential feature by appreciating that a spectral component close to UV radiation can cause untimely aging of the lips.

A problem of said prior-art solution is that its action is not long-lasting inasmuch as it only discloses an absorption step but not anything similar to the step of the present invention serving to maintain the achieved result. The reason to the short-lived prior-art effect is, as described above, that the lips lack a hydrolipidic barrier and, while absorption into the lips is feasible as such, the action thus imposed thereon fades rapidly.

In the view of the above, a particularly important role in the present invention plays the treatment for maintaining the effect of the volumizing absorption inasmuch as it is crucial to the end of securing a long-lasting action of absorption in the lips. In the method according to the invention the volumizing composition is applied on the lips/lip area by a desired amount, whereby the composition is spread on the lips by, e.g., brushing or other suitable means like having the composition applied directly onto the surface of the treatment device mouthpiece whereupon the mouthpiece is pressed onto the lips. By virtue of the latest LED technology, the light probe of the treatment device can be made wide and the light pattern thereof covers homogeneously the entire lip and its border area.

As a further option, it is feasible to consider varying the light intensity when applying the LED light on the lips/lip area, but alternatively it is possible to carry out the entire treatment using a constant light intensity. However, an essential feature of the invention is in the application of blue LED light provided by the latest technology that offers exact simulation of the blue spectral component of natural ambient light.

In the following, the invention will be elucidated in more detail with the help of a preferred exemplifying embodiment. While the implementations of the invention may be varied within the scope of the appended claims, its characterizing features are covered in the following example.

Exemplifying example

The method according to the invention is most advantageously directed to a four-step treatment method comprising the following:

Step 1

Cleansing of lips/lip area and protection from adverse action of light application. The area to be treated is cleansed carefully with a cleansing agent. The composition of the cleansing agent is: Aqua, Propanediol, Alcohol. Denat., Picea Abies extract, Glycerin, Decyl glucoside, Xylitol, Saccharin. The agent composition may vary and particularly the proportions of the ingredients may be modified as necessary in different applications. However, this is not a crucial factor in the treatment method being described.

An essential feature herein is that the cleansing agent contains spruce hardwood knot extract (Picea abies extract, proportion in the product 0.35 %) as an active component that also functions as a preservative in the product.

Moreover, this component provides a natural UV protection and, accordingly, it serves in the first treatment step as a UV protection on the lips prior to the subsequent light application step 3. Another important ingredient is xylitol having a generally recognized beneficial effect on the teeth when the lip- cleansing agent sometimes also reaches the mouth.

Step 2 Application of the active components, i.e., the composition comprising hyaluronic acid and Redensln onto the lips/lip area. This composition in conjunction with the light treatment applied in the following step 3 provides the desired action on the lip area. In more detail, the agents in the active composition are: Acacia Senegal gum, hydrolyzed rhizobian gum, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyalyronate, Commiphora mukul resin extract. The other agents are: aqua, glycerol, xanthan gum, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sucrose palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl linoleate, lactic acid.

The amount of the Redensln product is about 0.5 - 2 %, most advantageously 1 %. Therein the Redensln product contains sodium hyaluronate by 0.025 - 0.1 %, most advantageously 0.05 %. Additionally, the composition according to the invention contains hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid by 0.05 - 0.2 %, most advan- tageously 0.1 %.

As mentioned above, the composition used in the exemplifying embodiment contains most advantageously 1 % of the Redensln product having its active agents comprised of Commiphora Mukul extract by 0.05 % and sodium hyaluronate by 0.05 %. An important detail herein is that the composition according to the invention also contains small-molecule hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid by about 0.1 %, that is, by a substantially larger amount than sodium hyaluronate.

The amount of the small-molecule hyaluronic acid used in the method is at least twice as much the sodium hyaluronate content of Redensln. The molecular weight of the small-molecule hyaluronic acid is only about 50 kDa, while the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid in the skin is 600 - 1000 kDa. This difference is particularly important in the invention, since a smaller molecular weight provides greater penetrability into the skin and thus improves the effect of the present method.

Additionally the composition contains Acacia Senegal gum by 2.46 % and Hydrolyzed rhizobian gum by 0.54 % together with certain adjuvants needed as pH control, moisturizing, thickening and preservative agents. In a similar fashion as noted for step 1 above, the exact formulation of the composition may be varied and, more specifically, the proportions of the different components can be adjusted as necessary in different applications to achieve a maximally effective action.

The above details, however, do the relate to the treatment method proper inasmuch as the amount of composition used therein may be varied as desired to meet the actual situation. The composition is spread onto the lips by, e.g., brushing or other suitable means like having the composition applied directly onto the surface of the treatment device mouthpiece whereupon the mouthpiece is pressed onto the lips.

The hyaluronic acid of the treatment composition is swelled by water and thus provides the desired volumizing and/or smoothing cosmetic effect. Redensin functions in the composition as a wrinkle-reducing component by way of particularly binding to the subdermal fat cells. The Commiphora Mukul extract contained in the composition also tends to smooth the vertical wrinkles forming along the vermilion border of the lips. It binds to the fat cells of the vermilion border area that are not actually situated in the lips. This effect is significantly enhanced in the home care product of step 4, wherein the extract is also included as a functional component. Particularly after an extended and regular use of the composition, it provides a preventive and smoothing effect on the vermilion border area of the lips.

An essential detail of step 2 is that the function of hyaluronic acid in the invention is crucial and, in combination with the Redensin product, it can be absorbed into the lip area. Step 3

Light treatment: after spreading the composition in step 2 and/or during thereof, the lips/lip area are subjected to treatment with light in order to activate and absorb the composition. The light is adjusted to fall on the antibacterial spectral range of 420 - 480 nm of the natural ambient light. The light is applied on the lips or lip area either intermittently or continuously for a desired time in order to achieve a sufficient amount of absorption and cosmetic effect. According to step 2, the composition is preferably applied generously about the lip area thus also treating wrinkles about the vermilion lip area. A person can unaided spread the composition onto his/her lips and skin about the vermilion lip area and thereupon press the light treatment device onto the lips or, alternatively, the composition is applied directly onto the surface of the absorption device mouthpiece and therefrom directly onto the lips. In an alternative technique, professional treatment personnel apply the composition onto the lips and the absorption light treatment is carried out using a narrow optic-fiber-type light probe tip. The latter method allows the effect of the light treatment to be accurately controlled in beauty salons, for instance.

The light treatment takes 1 - 10 minutes, typically about 2 - 7 minutes, generally 5 - 7 minutes. A basic treatment comprises treatment in repeated steps of 2 min duration and, depending on the skin type, the treatment is repeated about 2 - 3 times per session. Light is applied onto the lips/lip area at a radiation intensity of 500 - 600 mW/cm², whereupon the excess amount of the composition is wiped off.

An essential feature of the invention is to use application of the latest- technology blue LED light applied directly or guided via optic fiber, whereby the blue spectral component of natural light can be exactly simulated. Moreover, owing to the LED technology, the light probe of the absorption treatment probe can be made wide and the light pattern thereof covers homogenously the entire lip and its border area. Resultingly, the composition can be spread directly onto the mouthpiece of absorption treatment probe and, when the mouthpiece is pressed onto the lips, steps 2 and 3 can be carried out simultaneously. Also in other respects with regard to the prior art, the treatment device is appreciably more advanced. Prior art has used equipment implemented with large and heavy halogen lamps driven from the mains, which has hampered their alignment and complicated their use. Moreover, the life of halogen lamps has been a complication inasmuch as they have to be replaced after about 200 treatment sessions. Resultingly, this has increased the operating costs of treatment device.

Moreover, during the light exposure, the person being treated has been forced to use protective goggles on the eyes. In contrast, the treatment device employed in the invention is a small-size, accurately controllable LED lamp or optic fiber probe powered by a replaceable or rechargeable battery having the probe mouthpiece designed to cover the lip area entirely. Resultingly, the absorption treatment can be carried out essentially more accurately and unrelated to any specific location.

Professional treating personnel have to use goggles during the treatment when the fiberoptic tip of the absorption treatment device probe is aligned onto the lips and effect of the treatment on the lips is monitored. Simultaneously the extent and need for the treatment can be controlled and the need for light treatment and composition absorption may be assessed whether to be administered in greater weight on the upper or the lower lip. The wavelength employed in the device is 420 - 480 nm at a radiation intensity of 500 - 600 mW/cm². Step 4

Comprises forming and maintaining the hydrolipidic protective barrier. In this last step a hydrolipidic barrier is formed and maintained by regular posttreatments. The latter operation is most advantageously carried out individually at home as home care using a home care product specifically developed therefor.

An essential detail herein is that the maintaining hydrolipidic protection barrier is attained by the use of a home care product according to the invention containing shea butter by 2 - 6 %, most advantageously by 4 %, as its specific component possessing a natural hydrolipidic quality. Also other treating- and moisture-retaining components are included such as argan oil, sea-buckthorn oil, blackcurrant seed oil, MAXI-LIP™ balm (wherein the active component is particularly palmitoyi oligopeptide) and myrrh. To enhance blood circulation, the product also contains benzyl nicotinate by 0.2 - 0.6 %, most advantageously 0.3 % or other agent rendering the same actions. A more detailed component list of the composition is as follows: hydrogenated polyisobutene, paraffinum liquidum, stearoxy dimethicone, Cera alba

(beeswax), Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), Argania spinosa kernel oil, caramel, octyl palmitate, tribehenin, sorbitan isostearate, palmitoyi oligopeptide, Commiphora myrrha, Hippophae rhamnoides berry oil, Ribes nigrum seed oil, benzyl nicotinate, methylparaben, ethylparaben; additional components included may be: mica, titanium dioxide (CI 77891 ), iron oxides (CI 77491 ).

With regard to the implementation of the invention, this step is particularly essential in maintaining the achieved action. In the method according to the invention, the treatment proper developed to the effect of absorbed composition is capable of securing a long-lasting result of absorption treatment in the lips. The treatment also activates blood circulation in the lip area and the moisturizing effect of water thereby enhancing and accelerating the action of the absorbed composition.

To a person skilled in the art it is obvious that the invention is not limited by the above-described exemplary embodiments, but rather may be varied within the inventive spirit and scope of the appended claims. The most important steps according to the invention are: cleansing in step 1 and UV protection with hardwood knot extract and xylitol; composition

spreading and treatment in step 2 with hydrolized hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and Commiphora Mukul extract; in step 3 activation and absorption by light treatment at a spectral wavelength of 420 - 480 nm; and in step 4 the maintenance of the treatment effect and hydrolipidic protection as well as the enhancement of blood circulation by a shea butter and benzyl niconate treatment. The exemplifying embodiments and characterizing features elucidated in the description above may also applied independently from each other.

Claims

1. A stepwise treatment method for the lips and/or the lip area, said method being used for volumizing and/or smoothing the lips and lip area in order to provide a cosmetic effect, characterized in that in the method according to step 1 the lips/lip area are cleansed and protected from UV radiation, whereupon in step 2 onto the lips/lip area is spread activatable composition providing the volumizing and/or smoothing cosmetic effect, and that during the spreading operation and/or thereafter onto the lips/lip area is performed in accordance with step 3 an absorption operation to activate the applied composition and absorb the same by light treatment at a spectral wavelength of 420 - 480 nm, and that thereupon the effect of the cosmetic treatment is maintained in accordance with step 4 by regular treatments maintaining and activating the cosmetic effect.

2. The treatment method of claim 1 , characterized in that in the method the lips/lip area are cleansed and protected from UV radiation using a composition containing spruce hardwood knot extract, whereupon onto the lips/lip area is spread a composition containing hyaluronic acid and Redensln, and that during the spreading operation and/or thereafter onto the lips/lip area is performed an absorption step to activate the applied composition by LED light treatment at a spectral wavelength of 420 - 480 nm, and that thereupon the effect of the cosmetic treatment is maintained with the help of a protective hydrolipidic barrier and home treatment aiming to enhance blood circulation.

3. The treatment method of claims 1 - 2, characterized in that in the method in accordance with step 1 the lips/lip area are cleansed and protected from UV radiation prior to a light treatment using a composition containing at least spruce hardwood knot extract having about 0.35 % of the active component and, advantageously, xylitol.

4. The treatment method of claims 1 - 2, characterized in that in the method in the cosmetic effect accomplished in step 2 is attained by treating the lips/lip area with a composition containing as its active agents particularly small- molecular hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid by an active component content of about 0.1 % and Commiphora Mukul extract by an active component content of about 0.05 % and, advantageously sodium hyaluronate by an active component content of about 0.05 %.

5. The treatment method of claims 1 - 2, characterized in that in step 3 the blue spectral component of natural ambient light is accomplished with the help of a LED lamp light or guided to a fiberoptic light illuminator tip, the light being applied to the lips/lip area intermittently or continuously for a desired time, e.g., 1 - 0 minutes, advantageously 2 - 7 minutes and most advantageously 5 - 7 minutes, and that the LED light is most advantageously administered onto the lips/lip area at a radiation intensity of 500 - 600 mW/cm² and the radiation intensity of light is adjusted as necessary during the treatment.

6. The treatment method of claims 1 - 2, characterized in that maintaining the cosmetic effect of step 2 is secured by regular home care treatments in accordance with step 4 serving to provide a hydrolipidic protective barrier and enhanced blood circulation by way of treating the lips particularly with shea butter having an active component content of about 4 % and benzyl nicotinate having an active component content of about 0.3 %.

7. The treatment method of claim 6, characterized in that the lips are treated in step 4, in addition to shea butter and benzyl nicotinate, with a home care product containing other treating agents such as argan oil, sea-buckthorn oil, blackcurrant seed oil and MAXI-LIP™ balm, wherein the latter especially contains palmitoyl oligopeptide as the active agent, and myrrh oil.

8. A stepwise applied multicomponent composition for treating the lips/lip area in order to provide a cosmetically shaping and treating effect, characterized in that the composition incorporates a combination of agents of which in step 1 for cleansing the lips/lip area and accomplishing protection from UV radiation is used a composition containing spruce hardwood knot extract and, advantageously, xylitol, while for volumizing and/or smoothing the lips/lip area in step 2 is used a composition containing hyaluronic acid and Redensln, whose absorp- tion is accomplished in step 3 with light treatment at a spectral wavelength of 420 - 480 nm, and that thereupon in accordance with step 4 the cosmetic effect of the treatment is maintained with the help of the hydrolipidic protective barrier by regular treatments using a product containing particularly shea butter and blood-circulation-enhancing benzyl nicotinate.

9. The multicomponent composition of claim 8, characterized in that, in addition to the shea butter and blood-circulation-enhancing benzyl nicotinate used in step 4, the multicomponent composition also contains, in order to maintain the cosmetic effect and hydrolipidic protective barrier, other treatment agents such as argan oil, sea-buckthorn oil, blackcurrant seed oil, myrrh oil and MAXI-LIP™ balm, wherein the latter especially contains palmitoyl oligopeptide as the active agent.

10. Combination use in a stepwise treatment method of spruce hardwood knot extract and, advantageously, xylitol in step 1 , hyaluronic acid and Redensln in step 2, as well as light treatment in step 3, followed by the combined application of shea butter and benzyl nicotinate in step 4 in the treatment of the lips/lip area, said use aiming to volumize and/or smooth the lips/lip area in order to provide a cosmetic effect.

11. The use according to claim 10, characterized in that in step 2 as the active agents are used particularly small-molecular hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and

Commiphora Mukul extract, and as well, advantageously, sodium hyaluronate.