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WO2012168216A2 - Émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques exemptes d'alcools gras - Google Patents

Émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques exemptes d'alcools gras Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012168216A2
WO2012168216A2 PCT/EP2012/060559 EP2012060559W WO2012168216A2 WO 2012168216 A2 WO2012168216 A2 WO 2012168216A2 EP 2012060559 W EP2012060559 W EP 2012060559W WO 2012168216 A2 WO2012168216 A2 WO 2012168216A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
stearate
polyglyceryl
preparation
preparation according
emulsion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2012/060559
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012168216A3 (fr
Inventor
Manuela Köhler
Jens Nielsen
Rainer Kröpke
Stefanie Von Thaden
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of WO2012168216A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012168216A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2012168216A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012168216A3/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

  • the invention includes cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate which are free of fatty alcohols.
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil.
  • Emulsions for their formation and stabilization generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, etc. are often used.
  • the generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22
  • Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. What the
  • Chain components of 16 and 18 C atoms are suitable as classical components for cosmetic or dermatological creams and ointments. Depending on their molecular weight, they are high-boiling oily liquids, waxy masses or solid products, e.g. Octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol),
  • Octadecenol oleyl alcohol or erucyl alcohol
  • octadecene diol ricinoleic alcohol
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate polyglyceryl-10-stearate
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
  • PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
  • JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
  • WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
  • DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
  • DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
  • US 20060018853 describes peel-off preparation with PG-10-stearate with
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • formulations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be formulated without fatty alcohols and have sufficient stability without exhibiting the abovementioned problems of the fatty alcohols.
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparation comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate, preferably less than 6% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising no fatty alcohols, in particular none of the chain length between C12-20 and most preferably C16-18.
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products, without compromising stability is impaired.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • Fatty alcohol-free means that the proportion of fatty alcohols, in particular C12-20, less than 1%, based on the total mass of the preparation, more preferably below 0.25%, and especially below 0, 1%.
  • Variability can be achieved in terms of the adjusted skin feel of the preparation.
  • PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
  • Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
  • Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
  • the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
  • a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or Change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
  • Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate Isolan GPS
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34
  • polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
  • propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
  • propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester rapeseed lecithin
  • sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
  • Sorbitan monolaurate sorbate 20
  • sorbitan di-citrate sorbitan butucate
  • Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
  • Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
  • Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
  • the preparations according to the invention also contain no parabens,
  • DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
  • formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
  • Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
  • perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
  • Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
  • Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
  • Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
  • Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
  • This process is called hot / hot process.
  • Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
  • thermally labile active substances such as natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or individual perfume ingredients.
  • Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
  • Titanium dioxide 2.5 1.2 0.15 -

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

Émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant du polyglycéryle-10-stéarate et ne contenant pas d'alcools gras.
PCT/EP2012/060559 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques exemptes d'alcools gras Ceased WO2012168216A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110077031 DE102011077031A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Fettalkohol-freie kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionszubereitungen
DE102011077031.3 2011-06-07

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012168216A2 true WO2012168216A2 (fr) 2012-12-13
WO2012168216A3 WO2012168216A3 (fr) 2014-08-07

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PCT/EP2012/060559 Ceased WO2012168216A2 (fr) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques exemptes d'alcools gras

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DE (1) DE102011077031A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012168216A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102017204791A1 (de) * 2017-03-22 2018-09-27 Beiersdorf Ag Sonnenschutzmittel mit Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat und Citronellol

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102014220449A1 (de) 2014-10-09 2016-04-14 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetisches Spray

Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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DE2909087A1 (de) 1979-03-08 1980-09-11 Beiersdorf Ag Verfahren und vorrichtung zur ermittlung des viskositaetsverhaltens von massen
DE19547679A1 (de) 1995-12-20 1997-06-26 Wella Ag Haarpflegemulsion
DE19724587A1 (de) 1997-02-15 1998-12-24 Wella Ag Haarpflegemittel
US5925615A (en) 1998-03-06 1999-07-20 Nu Skin International, Inc. Awapuhi (Zingiber zerumbet) -containing hair cleansing and conditioning compositions
WO2000027197A1 (fr) 1998-11-10 2000-05-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition renfermant un melange actif insectifuge
DE10213955A1 (de) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische phospholipidhaltige, niedrigviskose (versprühbare) O/W-Emulsionen
WO2003082182A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Gels et emulsions phospholipidiques cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques reticulees a base d'emulsifiants contenant des oxydes d'ethylene ou de propylene
JP2005162664A (ja) 2003-12-02 2005-06-23 Mandom Corp 毛髪脱色剤組成物
US20060018853A1 (en) 2002-11-18 2006-01-26 Kose Corporation Cosmetic pack preparation
DE102008028821A1 (de) 2007-06-20 2009-01-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetischer Stift auf Basis einer verdickten Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion
DE102008028822A1 (de) 2007-06-20 2009-02-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetischer Stift auf Basis einer Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion mit einem Hydrogelbildner

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JPH04314792A (ja) * 1991-04-12 1992-11-05 Nippon Oil Co Ltd 食品機械用グリース状油脂組成物
AU715827B2 (en) * 1995-06-22 2000-02-10 Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company Stable hydroalcoholic compositions
EP0758641B1 (fr) * 1995-08-11 2000-08-30 Daicel Chemical Industries, Ltd. Composition d'esters gras de polyglycérine, son procédé de préparation, procédé de préparation d'une composition d'esters gras de polyglycérine très pure, une composition d'esters de polyglycérine gras très pure, un additif alimentaire, une composition de résine et une composition pour cosmétiques ou détergents
FR2787326B1 (fr) * 1998-12-17 2001-01-26 Oreal Nanoemulsion a base d'esters gras de glycerol, et ses utilisations dans les domaines cosmetique, dermatologique et/ou ophtalmologique
CO5170451A1 (es) * 1999-04-23 2002-06-27 Kimberly Clark Co Panos limpiadores humedos que tienen beneficios de salud para la piel
US20050124705A1 (en) * 2002-03-28 2005-06-09 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic or pharmaceutical, low-viscosity oil-in-water emulsions containing phospholipids
US7994153B2 (en) * 2002-05-20 2011-08-09 Otsuka Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. Chloasma amelioration composition and dullness amelioration composition

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2909087A1 (de) 1979-03-08 1980-09-11 Beiersdorf Ag Verfahren und vorrichtung zur ermittlung des viskositaetsverhaltens von massen
DE19547679A1 (de) 1995-12-20 1997-06-26 Wella Ag Haarpflegemulsion
DE19724587A1 (de) 1997-02-15 1998-12-24 Wella Ag Haarpflegemittel
US5925615A (en) 1998-03-06 1999-07-20 Nu Skin International, Inc. Awapuhi (Zingiber zerumbet) -containing hair cleansing and conditioning compositions
WO2000027197A1 (fr) 1998-11-10 2000-05-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition renfermant un melange actif insectifuge
DE10213955A1 (de) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische phospholipidhaltige, niedrigviskose (versprühbare) O/W-Emulsionen
WO2003082182A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Gels et emulsions phospholipidiques cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques reticulees a base d'emulsifiants contenant des oxydes d'ethylene ou de propylene
US20060018853A1 (en) 2002-11-18 2006-01-26 Kose Corporation Cosmetic pack preparation
JP2005162664A (ja) 2003-12-02 2005-06-23 Mandom Corp 毛髪脱色剤組成物
DE102008028821A1 (de) 2007-06-20 2009-01-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetischer Stift auf Basis einer verdickten Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion
DE102008028822A1 (de) 2007-06-20 2009-02-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetischer Stift auf Basis einer Öl-in-Wasser-Dispersion/Emulsion mit einem Hydrogelbildner

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102017204791A1 (de) * 2017-03-22 2018-09-27 Beiersdorf Ag Sonnenschutzmittel mit Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat und Citronellol

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102011077031A1 (de) 2012-12-13
WO2012168216A3 (fr) 2014-08-07

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