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WO2012084867A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un sel de zinc, un polymère cationique et un propulseur - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un sel de zinc, un polymère cationique et un propulseur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084867A1
WO2012084867A1 PCT/EP2011/073297 EP2011073297W WO2012084867A1 WO 2012084867 A1 WO2012084867 A1 WO 2012084867A1 EP 2011073297 W EP2011073297 W EP 2011073297W WO 2012084867 A1 WO2012084867 A1 WO 2012084867A1
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Prior art keywords
zinc
composition according
weight
polymers
composition
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Julie BRUN
Béatrice LOUISIUS
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a zinc salt, a cationic polymer and a propellant
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one zinc salt in combination with at least one cationic polymer in a particular content, and at least one propellant, and also to the use of such a composition, preferably in the form of an aerosol foam, for conditioning keratin fibres and protecting their artificial colour from fading.
  • oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
  • the colorations resulting therefrom are particularly chromatic colorations but are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fibre and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fibre are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor fastness with respect to washing.
  • the artificial colour of the hair afforded by a direct dyeing or oxidation dyeing treatment gradually attenuates on repeated washing and exposure to light, leading over time to fading of the coloration of the hair.
  • detergent care products using a mixture of surfactants, zinc salts and cationic polymers have been proposed.
  • These compositions have the drawback of running on the skin during their rinsing, and may thus irritate the skin or sting the eyes. Their cosmetic rendering is moreover limited.
  • these compositions need to be rinsed out, at the risk of degrading the hair and irritating the scalp.
  • These rinse-out products therefore cannot be readily used in any situation, especially in a train or in an aeroplane when the user leaves on a journey and does not have access to a bathroom.
  • these compositions have the drawback of running on the skin during their rinsing, and may thus irritate the skin or sting the eyes.
  • compositions comprising at least one zinc salt and at least one cationic polymer in a particular content, and at least one propellant, the drawbacks mentioned above may be overcome.
  • a first subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • composition according to the invention affords efficient and long-lasting protection of the colour of keratin fibres against the degradation caused by light, ultraviolet radiation and/or repeated washing (fading of the colour, modification of the initial shade), while at the same time giving the hair a good level of care and smoothness.
  • composition according to the invention also has very good working qualities. It does not run, does not irritate the skin, the scalp, the eyes or the hair, and does not require any rinsing step subsequent to the step of applying the composition.
  • Another subject of the present invention consists of a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to keratin fibres and the scalp, without it subsequently being necessary to rinse out the applied composition.
  • Another subject of the present invention concerns the use of a composition according to the invention, preferably in the form of an aerosol foam, for conditioning keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, and for protecting their artificial colour.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 3% by weight and more preferentially less than 1% by weight of anionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still does not comprise any anionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more zinc salts.
  • zinc salt means any mineral or organic compound comprising in its structure at least one zinc-based cation and an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • the zinc salt(s) used according to the invention are preferably chosen from water-soluble zinc salts.
  • the zinc salt(s) are non-nitrogenous, i.e. they do not comprise any nitrogen atoms.
  • water-soluble zinc salt means any salt with a solubility in water of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, at a temperature of 25°C.
  • the zinc salt(s) are chosen from mineral and organic zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral zinc salt means any zinc salt possibly containing carbon only in the form of carbonate or hydrogen carbonate ions.
  • mineral zinc salts examples that may be mentioned include zinc sulfate and zinc chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic zinc salts examples that may be mentioned include zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc citrate and zinc salicylate, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the zinc salicylate and derivatives thereof according to the invention correspond to the following structure:
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 alkyl group (for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or n-butyl); a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 hydroxyalkyl group; a halogen atom (for example iodine, bromine or chlorine); a C 2 -Ci 8 acyl group (for example acetyl); a group COR 2 or OCOR 2 , in which R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Ci 8 alkyl group.
  • zinc salt(s) are chosen from: zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc salicylate and zinc citrate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the zinc salt(s) are chosen from: zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate and zinc gluconate, alone or as a mixture.
  • the zinc salt is an organic zinc salt. Even more preferentially, the zinc salt is zinc lactate or zinc gluconate. Better still, the zinc salt is zinc gluconate.
  • Zinc gluconate is sold, for example, under the name Givobio G Zn by the company SEPPIC in the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.05% to 10%) by weight, in particular from 0.1%> to 6.5% by weight and better still from 0.2%) to 3%> by weight of zinc salt(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the concentration of zinc element is preferably less than 2%> by weight, in particular ranging from 0.005%) to 1.5% by weight and better still from 0.1%> to 1%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • the cationic polymer(s) that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from all of those already known per se to enhance the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 611, FR- A-2 470 596, FR-A-2 519 863 and FR-A-2 875 503.
  • the preferred cationic polymer(s) are chosen from those that contain in their structure units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
  • cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
  • polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type mention may be made of:
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • R 3 which may be identical or different at each occurrence, denote a hydrogen atom or a group CH 3 ;
  • A which may be identical or different, each represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci- C 4 )alkyl ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
  • These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation.
  • JR JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M
  • LR LR 400, LR 30M
  • cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethyl- ammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallyl- ammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
  • Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar CI 62 by the company Meyhall.
  • Water-soluble cationic polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine or a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated, or quaternized if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions.
  • Such polymers are described
  • Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino- hydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.
  • the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, units conforming to the formula (V) or (VI): in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (i.e.
  • Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • Rio and Rn independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • dialkyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers more particularly dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold, for example, under the name Merquat® 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular masses) and dialkyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers, more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name Merquat® 550.
  • dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer ICI name: Polyquaternium-6 sold, for example, under the name Merquat® 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular masses)
  • dialkyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name Merquat® 550.
  • Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and R 16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (i.e. the alkyl part of which is C1-C4), or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R 16 , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R 16 each represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a -CO-O-R17-E or -CO- H-R17-E group where Rn is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • Ai, Rn and R15 may, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form a piperazine ring; moreover, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, Bi may also denote a group:
  • n denotes an integer from 0 to 7 and E denotes:
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • R 3, R 4, R 5 and Ri 6 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • R13, R14, R15 and Ri 6 each denote a methyl group.
  • hexadimethrine chloride sold under the name Mexomer PO by the company Chimex.
  • p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately
  • D may be nothing or may represent a group
  • X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in US patents 4 157 388, 4 390 689, 4 702 906 and 4 719 282.
  • the ones that are preferred are those with a molecular mass, measured by carbon- 13 NMR, of less than 100 000, and in the formula of which:
  • p is equal to 3
  • D represents a group -(CH 2 ) 4 -CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by carbon- 13 NMR ( 13 C NMR) being about 5600; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-ADl, b) D represents a group— (CH 2 ) T — CO— , X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by carbon- 13 NMR ( 13 C NMR) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-AZl, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass measured by carbon- 13 NMR ( 13 C NMR) being about 25 500; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-A15,
  • Mirapol-9 ( 13 C NMR molecular mass of about 7800), Mirapol-175 ( 13 C NMR molecular mass of about 8000) and Mirapol-95 (13C NMR molecular mass of about 12 500).
  • Ethoxylated cationic tallow polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, referred to under the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • Vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers and in particular partially hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide)s are formed from at least one vinylamide monomer corresponding to the following formula:
  • H 2 C CR 2 RC(0)R 1 in which R, R 1 and R 2 are each chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C1-C20 alkyl group, an aryl group and an alkylaryl group in which the alkyl part comprises from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, N- methyl-N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide.
  • poly(vinylamine/N- vinylformamide) is used, as sold under the name Catiofast VMP by the company BASF or under the name Lupamin 9030 by the company BASF.
  • These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a vinylamide monomer followed by partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide functions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in patent applications WO 2007/005 577, US 5 374 334, US 6 426 383 and US 6 894 110.
  • cationic polyurethanes use is preferably made of the polyurethanes formed by the following monomers:
  • the amines forming the cationic units (al) represent from 0.1% to 50%), in particular from 1%> to 30%> and better still from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the final polyurethane.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use polysaccharides of family (2) and in particular copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride (Poly quaternium-4) .
  • the cationic polymer(s) that may be used according to the invention are present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.4% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the amount of zinc element(s) to the amount of cationic polymer(s) preferably ranges from 0.005 to 5, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1 and better still from 0.05 to 0.5.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in accordance with the present invention are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • radicals R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl or a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the radicals R 8 to Rn denoting an alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 25 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C 12 - C22)alkyl acetate or hydroxyalkyl radicals comprising approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 30 and better still from 16 to 25 carbon atoms;
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of the halides such as chloride, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-Ce)alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates such as methosulfate.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium or cetyltrimethylammonium salts or oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts,
  • Ri 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • Rn is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 16a )(R 1 7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH 2 ) 3 , R 16a , Rn a , Risa, Ris, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Compounds of this kind are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl and Ci-C 6 hydroxy alkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals:
  • R23 is chosen from: O
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29 - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29,
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to
  • X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion
  • the alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched, but more particularly linear.
  • R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn- C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methylsulphate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate or tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ester-functional ammonium.
  • the anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • rl, r2, tl and t2 are equal to 2, with rl, r2, tl and t2 being as defined previously;
  • - R23 is chosen from:
  • - R25 is chosen from:
  • R24, R26 and R2 8 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear.
  • acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quatemization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxy- ethylmethylammonium salts.
  • cationic surfactants that are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
  • the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, with the proviso that the concentration of anionic surfactant is preferably less than 3% by weight and more preferentially less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention contains at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, this surfactant is preferably nonionic.
  • nonionic surfactants that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci- C2o)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.
  • fatty compound for example a fatty acid
  • fatty acid denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • lauryl ether polyoxyethylenated with 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI: Laureth-4) and/or hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated with 40 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) in the composition according to the invention.
  • the amount of the nonionic surfactant or surfactants varies preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty alcohols.
  • fatty alcohol means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched pure fatty alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and not oxyalkylenated.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • fatty alcohols examples include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include cetylstearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
  • fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol.
  • composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight and even better still from 1% to 4% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones, preferably amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • amino silicones used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-C 8 alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • Ri is a monovalent radical of formula -C q H 2q L in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R 2 can denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C 20 alkyl radical
  • Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XIV) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XV) below:
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene radical;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene radical
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, represent a C 1 -C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical
  • R' represents a methyl radical
  • A is a C4-C8 and preferably C 4 alkylene radical.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.
  • a product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow
  • the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (room temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; THF eluent; flow rate of 1 mm/m; 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIV) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (XVI) below:
  • R represents a Ci-Ci 8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl or C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Ci 8 alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Ci 8 , for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy radical;
  • Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R-7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci8 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Ci 8 , and for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R 8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or a radical -R 6 - HCOR 7 ;
  • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to
  • R 2 , R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C1-C 4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and in which x is selected such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • the silicone that is particularly preferred is amodimethicone.
  • composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight of silicone(s), preferably amino silicone(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic additives commonly used in the art, for instance antioxidants, organic ultraviolet screening agents, inorganic ultraviolet screening agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, mineral colloids, nacres, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, fixing or non-fixing polymers, proteins and vitamins, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • cosmetic additives commonly used in the art, for instance antioxidants, organic ultraviolet screening agents, inorganic ultraviolet screening agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, mineral fillers, clays, mineral colloids, nacres, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, fixing or non-fixing polymers, proteins and vitamins, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • these additives may represent individually an amount ranging from 0.001 to 90% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 50% by weight and better still from 0.001 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention generally comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.
  • Organic solvents that may be mentioned include lower alcohols (C 1 -C 4 ), such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol, polyol ethers, C5-C 10 alkanes, C3-C 4 ketones such as acetone, Ci- C 4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane and diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof.
  • lower alcohols C 1 -C 4
  • polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol
  • polyol ethers such as propylene glycol and glycerol
  • C5-C 10 alkanes C3-C 4 ketones
  • Ci- C 4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents
  • these solvents may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention if it is aqueous, generally ranges from 1.5 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6.5 and better still from 2 to 5.5. It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and sulfonic acids, and carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid.
  • mineral or organic acids for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and sulfonic acids
  • carboxylic acids for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid.
  • basifying agents examples include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (XX) below: a ⁇ / b
  • W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
  • Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more propellants.
  • the propellant(s) are preferably chosen from dimethyl ether, C 1 -C 4 hydrocarbons and especially linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkanes, for instance isobutane, butane, isopropane and propane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the propellant is a mixture of hydrocarbons and in particular of isobutane, butane and propane, more preferentially in relative weight proportions of 56/24/20.
  • Such a mixture is sold, for example, under the name Propel 45 by the company Repsol.
  • the propellant(s) preferably represent from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, and better still from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is conditioned in an aerosol device.
  • the composition generated by the aerosol is in the form of a foam.
  • Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process that comprises the application to keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, and the scalp, of a composition according to the invention as described above, with or without and preferably without subsequent rinsing of the said keratin fibres.
  • composition according to the invention that is applied may be massaged on the hair so as to accelerate the penetration, by hand or using any other adequate means, such as a brush or a comb.
  • the amounts are indicated as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of each composition.
  • the weight ratio of the amount of zinc element(s) to the amount of cationic polymer(s) (noted R') was calculated for each composition.
  • Zinc gluconate sold under the name
  • Citric acid qs pH 3.5
  • Citric acid qs pH 3.5
  • Methyl parab en (sold under the name
  • Zinc gluconate sold under the name
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (INCI :
  • Emulgin HRE 40 by
  • Citric acid qs pH 3.5
  • compositions 1, 2 or 3 A formulated foam generated via an aerosol device was applied very easily wet hair using compositions 1, 2 or 3. It was observed that these colour-protecting compositions according to the invention give a satisfactory level of care and of smoothing of the hair.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique comprenant : un ou plusieurs sels de zinc, ou un plusieurs polymères cationiques en une quantité totale supérieure ou égale à 0,4 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et un ou plusieurs propulseurs. L'invention porte également sur un procédé pour le traitement de fibres de kératine, utilisant une telle composition, et sur l'utilisation d'une telle composition pour traiter des fibres de kératine et protéger leur couleur artificielle.
PCT/EP2011/073297 2010-12-21 2011-12-19 Composition cosmétique comprenant un sel de zinc, un polymère cationique et un propulseur Ceased WO2012084867A1 (fr)

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