WO2012079873A2 - Active ingredient combination and hair preparations having a repair effect - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair preparations having advantageous properties contain, relative to the weight thereof, 0.001 to 5 wt. % of trimethylsiloxysilicate, 0.001 to 5 wt. % of polypropylsilsesquioxane, and 0.1 to 10 wt. % of at least one fat component that has hair care properties and is selected from among the groups of silicones and/or oil bodies and/or quaternary ammonia compounds.

Description

 "Active ingredient combination and hair treatment agent with repair effect"

The invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment agent based on a special combination of active substances, a method using the means and the use of the means for strengthening and repairing keratinous fibers.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with long-lasting as possible Wrkung increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, after such treatments, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends. It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed to reduce the burden of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers. These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. So Wrkstoffe are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combing or prevent the split. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active substances or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Especially in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional nourishing active ingredients which readily incorporate into known formulations and not be weakened due to incompatibilities with other ingredients in their effect.

It has now been found that particularly advantageous results are achieved when incorporating certain silicones into hair treatment compositions.

A first object of the present invention are hair treatment compositions containing - based on their weight - a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate and

 b) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% Polypropylsilsesquioxan and

 c) 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one nourishing fat component from the groups

 c1) the silicones,

 c2) the oil body,

 c3) the quaternary ammonium compounds.

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hairstyling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels , Hair waxes or their combinations. In view of the fact that some consumers shy away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps, means according to the invention are preferably those means which the consumer uses anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - from 0.001 to 5 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a co-hydrolysis product of tetraalkoxysilane and trimethylethoxysilane. This product forms a three-dimensional network of polysilicic acid moieties terminated with trimethylsilyl groups, possibly containing a low level of ethoxy and hydroxy functions. The average molecular weight of the trimethylethoxysilane can be determined from the ratio of the tetraalkoxysilane units to the trimethylethoxysilane units. Preferably, this ratio is 0.5 to 1.0, more preferably 0.66. An example of a trimethylethoxysilane having a ratio of 0.66 is Wacker-Belsil TMS 803 from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Munich, DE.

An exemplary formula for trimethylsiloxysilicate is

 Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a water-resistant additive that can be used as a film former and fixative.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain trimethylsiloxysilicate within narrower ranges. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.005 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, still further preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.35 to 1 wt .-% Trimethylsiloxysilicat included.

As a second essential ingredient the hair treatment compositions according to the invention - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% polyalkylsilsesquioxane.

Polyalkylsilsesquioxanes are compounds from the group of polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes (POSS) which are described by the empirical formula RSiO ^ ₅ , wherein R is an organic substituent, such as hydrogen, siloxy or cyclic or linear aliphatic or aromatic group, which additionally may contain reactive functional groups, for example, alcohol, ester, amine, keto, olefin, ether or halide groups. The basic structure of POSS compounds has a polyhedral Si-O backbone to which the R groups are attached. Homoleptic POSS compounds containing only a single type of R groups, and heteroleptic POSS chemicals, each containing different R groups, are known.

According to the invention, polyalkylsilsesquioxanes are used, i. the radicals R are alkyl radicals. Homoleptic polyalkylsilsesquioxanes are particularly preferably used according to the invention, i. The molecule contains only one kind of alkyl radical.

Octaisobutyl-POSS C₃2H720₁₂Si₈, Octamethyl-POSSFor example, the following polyalkylsilsesquioxanes may be used in the present invention: isooctyl-POSS [Me ₃ CCH ₂ CH (Me) CH ₂ ] n -Tn where n = 8, 10 or 12, octacyclohexyl-POSS C ₄₈ H ₈₈ O ₁₂ Si ₈ , octacyclopentyl-POSS

Octaisobutyl-POSS C ₃ 2H720 ₁₂ Si ₈ , octamethyl-POSS

C ₈ H ₂₄ 0i ₂ Sl ₈ . Very particularly preferably very particularly preferred hair treatment composition of the invention is the use of Polypropylsilsesquioxan, ie, the radical R in the formula RSiC ^ ₅ is a propyl group; the term "propyl" n-propyl as isopropyl both also be understood contain -. Based on their weight From 0.005 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight, especially preferably 0.3 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.35 to 1 wt .-% Polypropylsilsesquioxan.

As a third essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one nourishing fat component from the groups of silicones and / or the

Oil body and / or the quaternary ammonium compounds. The amounts are based on the total amount of all substances from the groups mentioned in the composition according to the invention.

A first group of ingredients which can be used as a nourishing fat component in the compositions of the invention are the silicones.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone selected from:

 (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

 (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

 a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

 b) (perforated groups;

 c) thiol groups;

 d) carboxylate groups;

 e) hydroxylated groups;

 f) alkoxylated groups;

 g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

 h) amphoteric groups;

 i) bisulfite groups;

 j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

 k) carboxy groups;

 I) sulfonic acid groups; and

 m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3; (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

or their mixtures.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.

Preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-I), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10, stands.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-Q-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₂ - O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₃ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₄ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₅ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₆ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₇ - O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₈ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₉ - os (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S i] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [Q- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-n-SiCCH, (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH 3) 3

(CH 3) 3 Si - [0- (CH 3) 2 Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH 3) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [O- (CH 3) 2 Si] 20-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 is used, wherein (CH ₃₎ 3 Si-0-Si (CH3) _3, (CH3) 3Si-0- (CH3 ) 2Si-0-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 2-0-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 are particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (R _a Q _b SiO (4_ _a _ _{B) / 2)} x (RcSiO (4_ _{C) / 2) y} M are described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of general formula -R HZ, wherein R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, Haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CI-13) Cl-12, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) zzNH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) z (CH ₂ ) zzNX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0 ,

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4 a a b) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4 c ) /} 2 units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)

R _'a G 3-a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ n (OSiG _b R'2- _{b) m} -0-SiG3-a-R'a (Si-II), include, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

Ch ^ Ch ^ CHs ^ Ch ^ Ch ^ _ß CH, -0-CH (CH3) 2, -CH (CH3) 2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3,

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH _3, -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

 m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂

o -QN (R ") ₂

o -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- o -QN ⁺ H (R") ₂ A ^"

o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A- o -QN (R") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R "H ₂ A ^" ,

wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C ^ o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-Ila),

 I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ , wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

R- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _{n 1} [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _{n 2}

 I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The amine number stands for the Mil Ii equivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III fO-Si-CH ₃ ) ₂ l, - (Si-II)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV

R ₃ Si [0-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [0-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-IV), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 3% by weight, still further preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.4 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one silicone of the formula Si-I and / or Si Ila and / or Si-I b

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-I),

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-Ila),

 I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

R- [Si (CH _{3) 2} -0] _n1 [Si (R) -0] _k - [Si (CH _{3) 2] n2} -R (Si-IIb),

 I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ in which

 x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10, stands

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R represents -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group

k, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. A second group of ingredients that can be used as a nourishing fat component in the compositions of the invention are the oil bodies. These are, for example, with particular preference ester oils. The ester oils are esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

 O

 R1 - -AO - O - R2

 (D4-II)

 R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,

 X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,

R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myric acid, stingic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachylalkohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

 Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol, as well as symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

 Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

 Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 2 , 5% by weight used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

Further oil bodies which can be used according to the invention are:

 vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n- dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl -n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

As natural oils, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil used.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which are 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.1 to 2 , 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one oil from the groups

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols,

the ester of branched C ₆ -C ₃ -carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ -fatty alcohols, the esters of linear C ₆ -C ₈ -fatty acids with branched alcohols,

 the ester of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols,

triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₀ fatty acids,

the ester of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic

Carboxylic acids,

 the vegetable oils,

 the branched primary alcohols,

 the substituted cyclohexanes,

 Guerbet carbonates,

 the dialkyl ethers,

 the ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons

contain.

A particularly suitable ingredient c2) in the inventive compositions is Dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearate citrate which is commercially available for example under the trade name Cutina ^® Shine. Hair treatment agents particularly preferred according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even further preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearate citrate.

A third group of ingredients which can be used as a nourishing fat component in the compositions of the invention are the cationic compounds.

Cationic compounds are, for example, monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From this large number of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable.

 Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group. R2

l ₊

 R1 N-X-R4

 I

 R3

 (Tkat1 -2)

 Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

 a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

 an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

 the radical (--X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Where X stands for:

 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and R4 stands for:

 1) R6-0-C0-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or

 2) R 7 -CO-, wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046 Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

 Further inventively particularly preferred compounds of formula (Tkat1 -2) include

Betaine esters.

 R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® L80, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

 (Tkat2)

 The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.

 In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

R1 - NH - (CH _{2) n} - N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3)

wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

 1) hydrogen or

 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

 A is an anion as previously described and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes. Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

 The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.

The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary

Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

 The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention: Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CRCOO- (CH ₂ ) m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} n X ^" ,

in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4-

Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

 Particularly suitable homopolymers are, for example

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) compounds. If desired, these compounds can be crosslinked. The anions are selected from the physiologically acceptable anions, as previously described in the case of the quaternary ammonium compounds. An example is that, if desired networked,

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are (3V Sigma), for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR commercially available.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R _a R _b R _c A ^"

 G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

 B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;

A ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ^®. Further Commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

 Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

 cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI - designation Polyquaternium-7,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,

 quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as are commercially available with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer unit, for example, under the name Aquaflex® SF 40.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ⁽⁾ (monol)

in which R and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(_) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

 (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(_) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

 Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).

 In addition, in addition to a monomer (monol) or (mono 2) and a monomer (mono 3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).

in denen R ⁰ und R unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R ² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten. (iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

in which R ⁰ and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₈ -C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

A highly preferred amphoteric polymer according to the invention is a copolymer which is composed as follows: 0.1 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (I)

(L) in which the definitions given above for the radicals R, R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and the indices n, m and the groups Z, A, B, X apply, and monomers the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alpha-ethacrylic acid, beta.beta-dimethylacrylic acid, methylenemalonic acid, vinylacetic acid, allylacetic acid, ethylidynetic acid, propylidynetic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, N-methacryloylalanine, N-acryloylhydroxyglycine, sulfopropyl acrylate, sulfoethyl acrylate, Sulfoethyl methacrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, phosphoethyl acrylate, phosphonoethyl acrylate, phosphopropyl acrylate, phosphonopropyl acrylate, phosphoethyl methacrylate, phosphonoethyl methacrylate, phosphopropyl methacrylate and phosphonopropyl methacrylate and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, and optionally nonionic monomers from the group acrylamide, vinyl alcohol, C 1 -C 4 alkyl esters v on acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, CC ^ hydroxyalkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular ethylene glycol and propylene glycol acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkoxylated esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular the polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol esters, esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid with polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol mono (C -C ₂₅ ) alkyl ethers, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone and methyl vinyl ether, wherein the monomers A2 and A3 together from 50 to 99.9% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer turn off. In the formula (I) for the monomer (A), R is preferably a methyl group, and also R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are methyl groups. The group Z is preferably an -NH group, the index n is particularly preferably the number 3.

Depending on the choice of the groups A and B and the index m, various monomers of the formula (I) may be preferred. A preferred monomer which satisfies the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph furthermore has, as group B, a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, and the index m is the number 0. Polymers containing such monomers are preferably used within narrower ranges. Thus, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one copolymer A from

 A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)

H

 (la) in the

 X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

 A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;

contain.

A further preferred monomer, which corresponds to the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph, has, as group B, furthermore a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, as group A a - (CH ₂ ) 2- or a - ( CH ₂ ) 3- or a - (CH ₂ ) ₄ group, and the index m is the number 1. Polymers containing such monomers are also preferably used within narrower ranges. Thus, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one copolymer A from A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ib)

 (Ib) in the

 p is 2, 3 or 4,

 X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

 A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and

Ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;

contain.

Particularly preferred monomers A2 are acrylic acid or its salts (also mixed, i.e. partially neutralized acrylic acids) and acrylamide. A preferred copolymer A is a copolymer of the monomer (Ia), sodium acrylate and acrylamide, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) being preferred:

Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50%

Sodium acrylate: 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70%

Acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers:

Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000

Sodium acrylate: Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from

 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800

Acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred

In summary, amphopolymers are particularly preferred if they contain at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Ic)

 (Ic)

contain, in which applies:

 x + y + z = Q

 Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,

 x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,

 y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,

 z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

In addition to the abovementioned copolymer or in its place, the compositions according to the invention may also contain a copolymer which is composed of monomers of the formula (Ia), maleic or fumaric acid (or their disodium salts) and acrylamide. In this case, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) is preferred:

Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to

 50%

 Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70%

 Acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to

30% Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers:

Monomer (Ia): Values of up to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to

4000 and especially from 5 to

2000

 Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): values of from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, particularly preferably from 10 to

10000 and in particular from 100 to 4800

 Acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, where the

 Value 0 is preferred

A most preferred polymer, which is constructed as described previously, under the INCI - free commercially, for example from Rhodia available as Polycare ^® Boost designation Polyquaternium-74.

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

 The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.1 to 2 , 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one cationic compound from the group

 the ester quats and / or

 Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds, in particular

Polyquaternium-37 and / or;

 quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium 67, and / or

 cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

cationised honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or

 polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or

 Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or

 Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or

 Polyquaternium 2 and / or

 Polyquaternium-7 and / or

 Polyquaternium-16 and / or

 Polyquaternium 17 and / or

 Polyquaternium 18 and / or

 Polyquaternium 24 and / or

 Polyquaternium 27 and / or

 Polyquaternium 74

contain.

The hair treatment compositions preferably further contain at least one member selected from the group consisting of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, vitamins, provitamins, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, UV filters and amino acids.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

 linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Acylglutamates of the formula (T1),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (T1)

 I

HN-COR in which R CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example Acylglutamates derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C _2/4 - or C ₂ / i 8 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium-N- cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,

 Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (T2),

X

I

HOCCOOR (T2)

 I

Y is CHCOOR ² wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R and R ² independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group which is a cation of an ammonium organic base or a Z radical derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₈ ) Alkylpolysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,

Esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of the general formula (T3I), H ₂ COOR (T3)

 I

_M (n ₊ / n) - _θ3 3 _ _CH _ COOR ² in the IVr 'for n = 1 is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base and for n = 2 represents an alkaline earth metal and R and R ² are each independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₈ ) Alkyl polysaccharides having from 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₆ ) hydroxyalkylpolyols having from 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, provided that at least one of R or R ^{2 is} Z;

 Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1-12,

 mixed surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,

 Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15

Molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide at C ₈ . Represent ₂₂ fatty alcohols,

 Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates,

 sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters,

 Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO ⁽ - ⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽ - ⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and Emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-ol Hydroxyethylimidazoline each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Further preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

 Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulfate having a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 EO.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic (s ) Surfactant (s), more preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _n - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _k -OSO ₃ ^" M ⁺ , in which n is from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 1 to 13 and k are values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation from the group Na ⁺ , K ⁺ NH ₄ ⁺ , Vi Mg ²⁺ , Vi Zn ²⁺ , preferably Na ⁺ .

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO ⁽ - ⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽ - ⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant (s) from the groups of

 N-alkyl,

 N-alkyl propionic acids,

 N-alkyl aminobutyric acids,

 N-alkyliminodipropionic,

 N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamido,

 N-alkyltaurines

 N-alkylsarcosines,

 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

N-cocoalkyl,

 cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate

C ₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine,

 N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,

 N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,

 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group

 Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat

 the compounds known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, the compounds known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

preferred agents containing the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (T4)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (T4) which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH 2) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH 2) 9-C (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH 2) i iC (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH 2) _3- C (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H3C- (CH2) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH2) 3N ⁺ (CH3) 2CH2COO-

H3C- (CH 2) 7 -CH = CH- (CH 2) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ CH ₂ COO-

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (T4) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (T4).

In addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of the formula (T4) or in its place, the hair-treatment compositions according to the invention can be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (T5)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms. These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.

For manufacturing reasons surfactants of this type often also contain betaines of the formula (T5a)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (T5) which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) 9-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO-

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) i 3-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) i 5-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) 7 -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) 7-C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (T5) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (T5).

In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (VI) and (VII) is selected from

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) g-

- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ - or mixtures of these.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain as nonionic surfactants - based on their weight - 0.1 to 20 wt .-% alkylpolyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z for sugar and x for the number the sugar units stands.

Alkyl polyglycosides (APG) are nonionic surfactants made entirely from renewable resources (sugar building blocks, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.

 Complex mixtures of alkyl monoglucoside (alkyl-α-D- and β-D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside), alkyldiglucosides (-isomaltosides, maltosides, etc.) and alkyl oligoglucosides (maltotriosides, tetraosides, etc.) are formed. The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.

According to the invention, preference is given to using alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R

essentially C ₈ and C ₀ alkyl groups,

essentially of C ₂ and C ₄ alkyl groups,

essentially of C ₈ - to C ₆ -alkyl groups or

essentially from C ₂ to C ₆ alkyl groups or

essentially from C ₆ to C ₈ alkyl groups

consists.

 As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8. Other surfactants which can be used particularly advantageously in the compositions according to the invention, especially in admixture with alkylpolyglycosides, are glutamates, asparaginates and sulfoacetates. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain, based on their weight, 0.1 to 20% by weight of fatty acid glutamates (acylglutamates) and / or fatty acid asparaginates (acylasparaginates) and / or alkylsulfoacetates (sulfoacetic acid alkyl esters).

Acylglutamate can be defined by the formula

in which R-CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alka nolammonium or glucammonium stands.

 Surprisingly, it has been found that blends of alkyl glucosides with acyl glutamates have a very good dermatological compatibility and an improved foamability both with regard to the base foam and the foam stability in the presence of water hardness.

 Acylglutamates are known anionic surfactants which can be obtained, for example, by Schotten-Baumann acylation of glutamic acid with fatty acids, fatty acid esters or chlorides. Products for sale are available, for example, from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / DE or Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Tokyo / JP.

 Typical examples of suitable acylglutamates are anionic surfactants which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, for example C 12/14 or C 12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid Particularly preferred are sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate

The compositions according to the invention may contain the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acyl glutamates in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99: 1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.

Acylasparaginates can be defined by the formula

beschreiben, in der R-CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/ oder 1 , 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alka nolammonium oder Glucammonium steht.

in which R-CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alka nolammonium or glucammonium stands.

 Acylasparaginates are known anionic surfactants which can be obtained, for example, by Schotten-Baumann acylation of aspartic acid with fatty acids, fatty acid esters or chlorides. Products for sale are available, for example, from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / DE or Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Tokyo / JP.

 Typical examples of suitable acylasparaginates are anionic surfactants derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as C12 / 14 or C12 / 18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid. Particularly preferred are sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-aspartate

The agents according to the invention may also contain the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides and the acylasparaginates in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99: 1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and in particular 80:20 to 50:50.

 Sulfoacetates (sulfoacetic acid esters), are usually salts of esters of sulfoacetic acid and can be represented by the general formula

R-0-C (O) -CH ₂ -SO ₂ -OX

in which R is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium stands.

 The use of the sodium salt of sulfoacetic acid with the INCI is particularly preferred.

Name: sodium lauryl sulfoacetate):

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ii -O-CO-CH ₂ -SO ₂ -ONa

 Sodium lauryl sulphoacetate is a white, free-flowing powder that reacts neutrally, with good foaming power, wetting power and dispersibility.

The care effects of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by using certain care substances. Preferably, these are selected from certain groups of known care substances, since these care substances harmoniously in terms of formulation and the care effect with the combination used according to the invention.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain care substances (e), based on their weight, in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group i. L-carnitine and / or its salts;

ii. Taurine and / or its salts; III niacinamide;

 IV. Ubiquinone

 v. Ectoin;

L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -A /, A /, A / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance. It plays an essential role in the energy metabolism of human, animal and plant cells. L-carnitine can be obtained in various ways on an industrial scale. For example, a, the body's own biosynthesis imitating, biotechnological process: In large fermentation tanks while the precursor of L-carnitine (γ-butyrobetaine) using Gram-negative bacteria (rhizobia) is converted into L-carnitine.

As betaine, L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts. L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and in particular 0.05, by weight contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Another preferred group of care agents in the compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances designated as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ) .beta.-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.) According to the invention, the vitamin A component is, for example, vitamin A acid and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate in Consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

 Vitamin (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group (see below). Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. 2,4-dihydroxy- / V- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or Niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B 1 and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₂ .

It has been shown that certain quinones have a special suitability as a care substance. As a further care substance, the compositions according to the invention can therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

(Ubi),

(Ubi)

contained in the

 X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR- or a chemical bond

-CH(CH₃)2, -(CH2)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH2CH₃, -CH2CH(CH₃)2, -C(CH₃)₃ R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₆ -C ₆ ) -alkylene group, or a ( C 1 -C 6 acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-CH (CH ₃₎ 2, - (CH 2) ₃ CH _3, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH 2 CH _3, -CH 2 CH (CH ₃₎ 2, -C (CH _{3) 3}

R is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ ,

-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

 stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Preferred compounds of the formula (Ubi) according to the invention are, for example

in which

R, R ² , R ³ are each independently of one another -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

- (ΟΗ ₂ ) ₂ ^ Η ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) sCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃

R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , or -CH ₂ CH ₃ , or - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% contain at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

 (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula

contain.

As a further care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin. Ectoine ((4S) - 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. The highly water-binding low molecular weight organic compound occurs in halophilic bacteria and allows these extremophilic organisms to survive under stress conditions. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0 , 1 to 1% by weight of (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5- Hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as a care substance. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as a care substance means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-c] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds of widespread nature involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes that can be differentiated from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH in 2-, 6-, and 8- Derive position and / or with CH ₃ in 1, 3, 7 position. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. According to preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), preferred agents containing purine and / or purine derivative (s) of formula (Pur-I)

in which the radicals R, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-Purethiol (R = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theobromine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theophylline (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ' It is also advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain ratio to each other. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and biochinone (s) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10.

As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative, and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a conditioner, the compositions of the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention, flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups being preferred as a care substance because of their particularly intensive treatment. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.

According to the invention particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of flavonoids, in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-0-rutinoside (rutin), included.

Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as a care substance in the inventive compositions. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contain.

Creatine is also suitable as a care substance according to the invention. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic acid found in vertebrates and the like. a. contributes to supplying the muscles with energy. Creatine is synthesized in the kidney, liver and pancreas. It is formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine and is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% / V-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:

 Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be efficacious and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone.

 Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, but in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal effects on hair follicles, spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, i. H. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

 In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

 In addition to the care substances, the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out

 Monosaccharides, in particular

 D-ribose and / or

 D-xylose and / or

L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or

 D-mannose and / or

 D-galactose and / or

 D-fructose and / or

 Sorbose and / or

 L-fucose and / or

 L-rhamnose

 Disaccharides, in particular

 Sucrose and / or

 Maltose and / or

 Lactose and / or

 Trehalose and / or

 Cellobiose and / or

 Gentiobiose and / or

 Isomaltose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 to 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers, hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent.

In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The NTU value (Nephelometrie Turbidity Unit, NTU) is a unit used in water treatment for turbidity measurements in liquids. It is the unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1 - yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydi- benzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020) , a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-methylaminobenzoic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester ( octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) - 1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl ] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303 , Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranila Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; te; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-) yliden) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-

Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-Isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of the N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

 substituted benzophenones,

 p-aminobenzoic acid esters,

 diphenylacrylic,

 cinnamic,

 salicylic acid,

 Benzimidazoles and

 o-aminobenzoic.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention. The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

 Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) x N ⁺ RR ² R ³ X ^" , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R ^{2 are} independently C 1-4 alkyl groups, R ³ is a C 1-4 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates , Diols and triols, and especially 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids used according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α - position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino optionally substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

 Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

 Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

 Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols. Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).

 Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

 Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^® 1 1 -80 is. Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₃ -C ₄ iso-paraffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

 shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

 Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

 Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

The hair treatment agents of the invention are preferably water-based, i. contain water as the main ingredient. Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 94% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 93% by weight, particularly preferably from 70 to 92% by weight and in particular from 75 to 90 Wt .-% water.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention applied to keratinic fibers and leave there either until the next hair wash (so-called "leave-on" product) or after Exposure time of 30 to 300 seconds rinsed (so-called "rinse-off product) is.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the purification of keratinic fibers in which a hair treatment composition containing - based on its weight - a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate and

 b) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% Polypropylsilsesquioxan

applied to the hair and rinsed again after a contact time of 5 seconds to 5 minutes.

Particularly preferred in the process according to the invention to be used means according to the invention, in addition to the ingredients a) and b) contain at least one further ingredient c). Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for the purification of keratinous fibers, in which a hair treatment composition according to the invention is applied to the hair and rinsed again after a contact time of 5 seconds to 5 minutes.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Examples (all data in% by weight):

A) Hair rinses

Stenol 1618 C ₁₆ . ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis)

Crodazosoft ^® DBQ INCI name: Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate,

 Cetearyl alcohol (about 70% by weight of cationic active substance)

Genamin ^® KDMP N, N, N-trimethyl-N (C ₂ o-22-alkyl) ammonium chloride (about 77-

83% active ingredient in isopropanol; INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

 DC MQ-1640 Flake Resin mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and polypropylsilsesquioxane,

 Solid with 100% active ingredient (INCI name: Trimethylsiloxy Silicate (and) Polypropyl silsesquioxane) (Dow Corning)

Dow ^Corning® 959 about 52-56% solids; INCI name: Amodimethicone,

 Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

Abil Quat ^® T 60 65% quaternary silicone in 35% PPG-3 myristyl ether; INCI

Designation: Silicone Quaternium-22 (Evonik)

Cetiol ^® CC dioctyl (INCI name: Dicaprylyl Carbonate) (Cognis)

Cutina ^® Shine Dicocoylpentaerythrityl distearyl citrate (INCI name: Dicocoyl

 Pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate) (Cognis)

Application: The compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention were massaged into the wet hair after shampooing and rinsed out after a contact time of 30 seconds. Compared to commercially available formulations, an improved repair effect was observed. which was manifested in improved wet and dry combabilities, improved curl retention properties, and reduced split.

B) hair treatments

Stenol 1618 C ₁₆ . ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis)

Quartamin ^® BTC-131 approx. 50% QAV, INCI name: Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride

 (Kao)

Crodazosoft ^® DBQ INCI name: Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate,

 Cetearyl alcohol (about 70% by weight of cationic active substance)

 DC MQ-1640 Flake Resin mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and polypropylsilsesquioxane,

 Solid with 100% active ingredient (INCI name: Trimethylsiloxy Silicate (and) Polypropyl silsesquioxane) (Dow Corning)

Dow ^Corning® 959 about 52-56% solids; INCI name: Amodimethicone,

 Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow Corning)

Abil Quat ^® T 60 65% quaternary silicone in 35% PPG-3 myristyl ether; INCI

Designation: Silicone Quaternium-22 (Evonik)

Cetiol ^® C5 caprylic-Kokosfettalkoholester (INCI name: coco

Caprylates) (Cognis)

Cutina ^® Shine Dicocoylpentaerythrityl distearyl citrate (INCI name: Dicocoyl

 Pentaerythrityl distearyl citrate) (Cognis)

Application: Compositions 1 to 5 according to the invention were massaged into the wet hair after shampooing and rinsed out after a contact time of 5 minutes. Compared to commercially available formulations a significantly improved repair effect was observed, which was noticeable in improved wet and dry combabilities, improved curl retention properties and in reduced split.

Claims

claims 1 . Hair treatment compositions containing - based on its weight - a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate and  b) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% polyalkylsilsesquioxane and  c) 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one nourishing fat component from the groups  c1) the silicones,  c2) the oil body,  c3) the quaternary ammonium compounds. 2. hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it 0.005 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, even more preferably 0, 25 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.35 to 1 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate contains. 3. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is 0.005 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.35 to 1 wt .-% Polypropylsilsesquioxan contains. 4. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it 0.15 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% , even more preferably 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 2% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of at least one silicone of the formula Si-I and / or Si-Ila and / or Si-Ilb (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-I), (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] n [OSi (CH 3)] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-Ila),  I CH ₂ CH (CH 3) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ R- [Si (CH _{3) 2} -0] _n1 [Si (R) -0] _k - [Si (CH _{3) 2]} n2 (Si-IIb),  I (CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ contains, in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10, stands m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R represents -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group  k, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 3 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one oil from the groups Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, the ester of branched C ₆ -C ₃ -carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₀ -fatty alcohols, the esters of linear C ₆ -C ₈ -fatty acids with branched alcohols,  the ester of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₀ fatty acids, the ester of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic Carboxylic acids,  the vegetable oils,  the branched primary alcohols,  the substituted cyclohexanes,  Guerbet carbonates,  the dialkyl ethers,  the ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons contains. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 3 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one cationic compound from the group of the esterquats and / or Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds, especially polyquaternium-37 and / or;  quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium 67, and / or  cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or  cationised honey and / or  cationic guar derivatives and / or  polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or  Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or  Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or  Polyquaternium 2 and / or  Polyquaternium-7 and / or  Polyquaternium-16 and / or  Polyquaternium 17 and / or  Polyquaternium 18 and / or  Polyquaternium 24 and / or  Polyquaternium 27 and / or  Polyquaternium 74  contains. 7. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% , even more preferably 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% dicocoyl pentaerythrityl distearate citrate. 8. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains 40 to 95 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 94 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 93 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70 to 92 wt. % and in particular 75 to 90 wt .-% water. 9. A process for the purification of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a hair treatment agent containing - based on its weight - a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% trimethylsiloxysilicate and  b) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% Polypropylsilsesquioxan applied to the hair and rinsed again after a contact time of 5 seconds to 5 minutes. A process for the purification of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 applied to the hair and rinsed again after a contact time of 5 seconds to 5 minutes.