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WO2012069754A1 - Cosmetic composition for exerting an exfoliating action, cosmetic kit and uses - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition for exerting an exfoliating action, cosmetic kit and uses Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012069754A1
WO2012069754A1 PCT/FR2011/052723 FR2011052723W WO2012069754A1 WO 2012069754 A1 WO2012069754 A1 WO 2012069754A1 FR 2011052723 W FR2011052723 W FR 2011052723W WO 2012069754 A1 WO2012069754 A1 WO 2012069754A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
lotion
powder
cosmetic
skin
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PCT/FR2011/052723
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French (fr)
Inventor
Jocelyne Musy
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VELD'S
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VELD'S
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/965Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition for exfoliating action Cosmetic kit and uses
  • the invention mainly relates to a cosmetic composition intended to exfoliate.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising in particular such a cosmetic composition.
  • the invention finally relates to different uses of the cosmetic kit. It is known to use abrasive particles in exfoliating or exfoliating products.
  • Exfoliants commonly used are in the form of a liquid composition in which the abrasive particles are in suspension, especially in suspension in an oil-based composition.
  • exfoliating products are used only as exfoliating products, the intrinsic presence of abrasive particles in these products preventing their use any other application.
  • the present invention is aimed primarily at a cosmetic composition intended to be activated as an exfoliating composition, and for which the rinsing of the product applied to the skin which contains the abrasive particles substantially eliminates these abrasive particles in comparison with known exfoliating products.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is essentially characterized in that it comprises at least one exfoliating compound consisting of water-soluble abrasive grains which act on the skin by mechanical exfoliation and dissolve in an aqueous solution.
  • the water-soluble abrasive grains are salts of the Kalahari desert with a diameter of less than 200 micrometers.
  • the composition is in the form of a powder and is capable of forming an exfoliating oil when it is mixed with a liquid composition based on oil.
  • the composition comprises at least one cleaning agent in powder form and is capable of forming a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with an aqueous solution.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic kit which is essentially characterized in that it comprises a powder as previously described.
  • kit of the invention may also include the following optional features considered in isolation or in any possible technical combination:
  • the oil comprises at least Marula oil.
  • the oil comprises at least one emulsifier, so as to form an emulsion in contact with an aqueous solution.
  • the cosmetic kit comprises an aqueous lotion capable of forming a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with the previously described powder.
  • This aqueous lotion comprises at least one anti-radical agent consisting of Rooibos, and is capable of forming an anti-radical lotion when used alone, and to form a cleansing lotion with anti-radical effect when used with the powder previously described.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic kit comprising powder and oil for, at the user's choice,
  • the invention finally relates to the use of the cosmetic kit comprising the powder, the oil and the aqueous lotion for, at the user's choice,
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a powder containing water-soluble abrasive grains. More specifically, these grains are non-fat soluble so that when the powder is mixed with oil, the abrasive grains are distributed homogeneously in the oil forming a gumming product suitable for use as the known products, to know by application on the skin, massage and rinse.
  • the abrasive grains are water-soluble, which results that when rinsing with water or with, more generally, an aqueous solution, the salts melt and are removed from the surface of the skin quickly and effectively .
  • the water-soluble abrasive grains are salts of the Kalahari desert.
  • the Kalahari is a sandy desert and semi-arid covering a large part of Botswana and extending to Thailand and South Africa.
  • the salts undergo a sieving operation in order to use in the context of the composition of the invention, salts with a diameter of less than 200 microns.
  • the Applicant has carried out comparative tests of different water-soluble abrasive grains.
  • sugar and sea salt have have been tested.
  • Sugar and sea salt have proved unsuitable.
  • too large grain size limits the effectiveness of the exfoliating action.
  • the marine salts they swell when they are suspended in the oil, also causing a considerable decrease in effectiveness of the exfoliating action.
  • the hardness and stability of the Kalahari Desert salts ensure that these salts have an effective exfoliating action.
  • the use of these salts with a diameter of less than 200 micrometers makes it possible to obtain optimum effectiveness of the exfoliating action without causing skin irritation,
  • the salts of the Kalahari desert are laden with minerals, essential elements in the process of rehydration of the skin and in the slowing down of skin aging.
  • these salts contain potassium that promotes skin balance, sodium that maintains the proper moisture balance and acts as a detoxifying agent, magnesium that stimulates cell regeneration and acts as an anti-stress agent, and finally the calcium that protects cutaneous tissue and improves the barrier function of the skin.
  • the powder of the invention also comprises a cleaning agent which, when it is brought into contact with an aqueous solution, ensures the cleaning of the skin.
  • the cleaning agent When the user wishes to perform a scrub, he mixes the powder with oil, performs the exfoliation and rinsing. During rinsing, the cleaning agent is activated so that it reinforces the cleansing of the skin after the scrubbing process.
  • the cleaning agent must be in powder form, its cleaning action must be activated by mixing with an aqueous solution and it must be compatible with the salts of the Kalahari desert when they are solubilized.
  • the cleaning agent used is amilite, which is a surfactant.
  • Table 1 below shows the composition of the powder of the invention comprising the salts of the Kalahari Desert. Ingredient% mass
  • the powder of the invention also comprises the following compounds:
  • a cosmetic kit comprising the powder described above and oil.
  • the powder and the oil are presented in separate flasks.
  • the oil is intended to be used alone as a cleansing oil, or mixed with the powder to form an exfoliating oil.
  • the oil of the kit of the invention comprises Marula oil.
  • the Marula is a tree native to Venezuela and South Africa.
  • the oil contained in the kernels of its fruits contains a high level of vitamin C, as well as a considerable intake of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.
  • Marula is used for its revitalizing, nutritive, protective and scarring properties, but also for its emollient properties and thus, its hydration capacities.
  • the oil of the invention comprises other emollients which each have different properties of penetration into the skin.
  • the oil of the invention also comprises at least one emulsifier.
  • the presence of this emulsifier is important for rinsing the oil. Indeed, the rinsing of the oil with an aqueous solution must lead to an optimal elimination of the oil.
  • the emulsifier contained in the oil thus makes it possible to form, in contact with the aqueous rinsing solution, an emulsion facilitating the elimination of the oil.
  • the oil of the kit of the invention comprises an antioxidant for preserving the oil by offsetting its oxidative nature.
  • Table 2 below indicates two possible formulations of the kit oil of the invention. The function of each of the ingredients is indicated in accordance with the description that has been made previously.
  • the cosmetic kit may also include an aqueous lotion, presented in a separate bottle of the oil and water bottle.
  • the aqueous lotion may be used alone as a refreshing lotion with an anti-radical action, as will be explained for a long time, or as an oil rinsing lotion of the kit of the invention used as a make-up removing oil or as an exfoliating oil by mixing with the powder of the invention.
  • the aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention comprises a rooibos extract.
  • Roiboos is a plant of African origin which is the only plant in the world to contain a flavonoid with powerful anti-radical properties, aspalathine. Rooibos is thus opposed to the spread of the lipid peroxidation chain, the main cause of skin aging and protects cells from oxidative stress.
  • the aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention further comprises the following compounds:
  • moisturizer of the family of humectants improving the penetration of water into the skin and therefore its hydration
  • Table 3 below indicates a formulation of the aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention.
  • the function of each of the ingredients is indicated in accordance with the description that has been made previously.
  • the invention thus relates mainly to a composition comprising water-soluble abrasive grains which, when suspended in oil, can be used to scrub the skin, especially the face, and when they are in contact with the skin. contact with an aqueous solution, to be dissolved and thus be eliminated quickly and efficiently when rinsing the oil.
  • an exfoliating oil may be provided containing the water-soluble abrasive grains such as the salts of the Kalahari desert, obtained for example by mixing the powder whose composition is given in Table 1 and the oil composition of which is given in Table 2.
  • the composition thus formed is an exfoliating oil containing abrasive grains in suspension which solubilize on contact with an aqueous solution.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic kit containing especially the powder whose composition is given in Table 1 and which is presented in a first bottle, and the oil whose composition is given in Table 2 and which is presented in a second bottle.
  • the kit of the invention may further comprise an aqueous lotion which may either be used alone as a refreshing lotion with an anti-radical property thanks to the presence of Rooibos, or as a rinsing lotion for the oil used or as a make-up removal oil, as an exfoliating oil.
  • an aqueous lotion which may either be used alone as a refreshing lotion with an anti-radical property thanks to the presence of Rooibos, or as a rinsing lotion for the oil used or as a make-up removal oil, as an exfoliating oil.
  • the kit includes powder, oil and aqueous lotion
  • the user will have the choice between five cosmetic applications.
  • the kit of the invention addresses a common problem of users of cosmetic products sui concern the large number of products used and the difficulty to transport them during a trip for example.
  • the kit of the invention allows to have with three products, five uses: a cleanser, a cleanser, an exfoliating oil, a refreshing lotion and an oil rinse lotion.
  • composition and the kit of the invention may be used both on the skin of the face and on the skin of the body.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates mainly to a cosmetic composition which is essentially characterized in that it comprises at least one exfoliating compound consisting of water-soluble abrasive grains which act on the skin via mechanical exfoliation and dissolve in an aqueous solution. The water-soluble nature of the abrasive grains makes it possible to facilitate rinsing via the exfoliation since the grains dissolve in the aqueous rinsing solution. The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising a powder containing the water-soluble abrasive grains and an oil. The cosmetic kit can also comprise an aqueous lotion. The water-soluble abrasive grains are Kalahari desert salts.

Description

Composition cosmétique destinée à exercer une action exfoliante, kit cosmétique et utilisations  Cosmetic composition for exfoliating action, cosmetic kit and uses

L'invention concerne principalement une composition cosmétique destinée à exercer une action exfoliante. The invention mainly relates to a cosmetic composition intended to exfoliate.

L'invention concerne également un kit cosmétique comprenant notamment une telle composition cosmétique.  The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising in particular such a cosmetic composition.

L'invention concerne enfin différentes utilisations du kit cosmétique. Il est connu d'utiliser des particules abrasives dans des produits gommants ou exfoliants.  The invention finally relates to different uses of the cosmetic kit. It is known to use abrasive particles in exfoliating or exfoliating products.

Ces produits sont utilisés dans les domaines cosmétiques et dermatologiques pour nettoyer en profondeur la peau par élimination des cellules mortes et des impuretés de la peau, ainsi que pour déboucher les pores de la peau. Ils permettent ainsi de l isser la peau et d'en améliorer l'éclat.  These products are used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields to thoroughly clean the skin by removing dead skin cells and impurities from the skin, as well as to unclog the pores of the skin. They allow to em iss the skin and improve the radiance.

Ces produits s'utilisent par étalement sur la peau, puis par massage du produit étalé afin que les particules abrasives exercent leur action de gommage, et enfin par rinçage.  These products are used by spreading on the skin, then by massage of the spread product so that the abrasive particles exert their scrubbing action, and finally by rinsing.

Les produits exfoliants couramment utilisés se présentent sous la forme d'une composition liquide dans laquelle les particules abrasives sont en suspension, notamment en suspension dans une composition à base d'huile.  Exfoliants commonly used are in the form of a liquid composition in which the abrasive particles are in suspension, especially in suspension in an oil-based composition.

L'utilisation de ce type de produit exfoliant présente des difficultés d'utilisation lors du rinçage. En effet, certaines particules abrasives sont difficiles à éliminer et restent en contact sur la peau, provoquant des irritations et un toucher peu agréable.  The use of this type of exfoliating product has difficulties in use during rinsing. Indeed, some abrasive particles are difficult to remove and remain in contact on the skin, causing irritation and a touch unpleasant.

Par ailleurs, les produits exfoliants connus s'utilisent uniquement comme produits exfoliants, la présence intrinsèque des particules abrasives dans ces produits empêchant leur utilisation tout une autre application.  Moreover, known exfoliating products are used only as exfoliating products, the intrinsic presence of abrasive particles in these products preventing their use any other application.

Dans ce contexte, la présente invention vise principalement une composition cosmétique destinée à être activée comme composition exfoliante, et pour laquelle le rinçage du produit appliqué sur la peau qui contient les particules abrasives élimine notablement mieux ces particules abrasives par rapport aux produits exfoliants connus.  In this context, the present invention is aimed primarily at a cosmetic composition intended to be activated as an exfoliating composition, and for which the rinsing of the product applied to the skin which contains the abrasive particles substantially eliminates these abrasive particles in comparison with known exfoliating products.

L'invention vise également une composition pouvant être utilisée pour plusieurs applications. A cet effet, la composition cosmétique de l'invention est essentiellement caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte au moins un composé exfoliant constitué de grains abrasifs hydrosolubles qui agissent sur la peau par exfoliation mécanique et se dissolvent dans une solution aqueuse. The invention also provides a composition that can be used for several applications. For this purpose, the cosmetic composition of the invention is essentially characterized in that it comprises at least one exfoliating compound consisting of water-soluble abrasive grains which act on the skin by mechanical exfoliation and dissolve in an aqueous solution.

La composition de l'invention peut également comporter les caractéristiques optionnelles suivantes considérées isolément ou selon toutes les combinaisons techniques possibles :  The composition of the invention may also include the following optional characteristics considered in isolation or in any possible technical combination:

- les grains abrasifs hydrosolubles sont des sels du désert de Kalahari de diamètre inférieur à 200 micromètres.  the water-soluble abrasive grains are salts of the Kalahari desert with a diameter of less than 200 micrometers.

- la composition se présente sous forme de poudre et elle est apte à former une huile exfoliante lorsqu'elle est mélangée à une composition liquide à base d'huile.  the composition is in the form of a powder and is capable of forming an exfoliating oil when it is mixed with a liquid composition based on oil.

- la composition comporte au moins un agent nettoyant sous forme de poudre et elle est apte à former une lotion nettoyante lorsqu'elle est mélangée à une solution aqueuse.  the composition comprises at least one cleaning agent in powder form and is capable of forming a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with an aqueous solution.

L'invention concerne également un kit cosmétique qui est essentiellement caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une poudre telle que précédemment décrite.  The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit which is essentially characterized in that it comprises a powder as previously described.

Le kit de l'invention peut également comporter les caractéristiques optionnelles suivantes considérées isolément ou selon toutes les combinaisons techniques possibles :  The kit of the invention may also include the following optional features considered in isolation or in any possible technical combination:

- l'huile comprend au moins de l'huile de Marula.  the oil comprises at least Marula oil.

- l'huile comprend au moins un émulsionnant, de façon à former une émulsion au contact d'une solution aqueuse.  the oil comprises at least one emulsifier, so as to form an emulsion in contact with an aqueous solution.

- le kit cosmétique comprend une lotion aqueuse apte à former une lotion nettoyante lorsqu'elle est mélangée avec la poudre précédemment décrite.  - The cosmetic kit comprises an aqueous lotion capable of forming a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with the previously described powder.

- cette lotion aqueuse comprend au moins un agent anti-radicalaire constitué de Rooibos, et est apte à former une lotion anti radicalaire lorsqu'elle est utilisée seule, et à former une lotion nettoyante à effet anti radicalaire lorsqu'elle est utilisée avec la poudre précédemment décrite.  - This aqueous lotion comprises at least one anti-radical agent consisting of Rooibos, and is capable of forming an anti-radical lotion when used alone, and to form a cleansing lotion with anti-radical effect when used with the powder previously described.

L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du kit cosmétique comprenant la poudre et l'huile pour, au choix de l'utilisateur,  The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic kit comprising powder and oil for, at the user's choice,

- effectuer un soin nettoyant par mélange de la poudre avec une solution aqueuse telle que de l'eau,  carry out a cleaning treatment by mixing the powder with an aqueous solution such as water,

- effectuer un soin démaquillant par application de l'huile sur la peau, - effectuer un soin exfoliant par mélange de la poudre avec l'huile, suivi d'une action combinée de rinçage et de nettoyage de la peau par mélange de l'huile exfoliante avec une composition liquide aqueuse telle que de l'eau. - perform a cleansing care by applying the oil on the skin, - Carry out an exfoliating treatment by mixing the powder with the oil, followed by a combined action of rinsing and cleaning the skin by mixing the exfoliating oil with an aqueous liquid composition such as water.

L'invention concerne enfin l'utilisation du kit cosmétique comprenant la poudre, l'huile et la lotion aqueuse pour, au choix de l'utilisateur,  The invention finally relates to the use of the cosmetic kit comprising the powder, the oil and the aqueous lotion for, at the user's choice,

- effectuer un soin nettoyant par mélange de la poudre avec une solution aqueuse telle que de l'eau ou la lotion aqueuse,  - Carry out a cleansing treatment by mixing the powder with an aqueous solution such as water or the aqueous lotion,

- effectuer un soin démaquillant par application de l'huile sur la peau, - effectuer un soin anti radicalaire par application de la lotion anti radicalaire sur la peau,  - carry out a cleansing care by applying the oil on the skin, - perform an anti-radical care by applying the anti-free radical lotion on the skin,

- effectuer un soin exfoliant par mélange de la poudre avec l'huile suivi d'une action combinée de rinçage et de nettoyage de la peau par mélange de l'huile exfoliante avec une composition liquide aqueuse telle que de l'eau ou la lotion anti radicalaire.  - Carry out an exfoliating treatment by mixing the powder with the oil followed by a combined action of rinsing and cleaning the skin by mixing the exfoliating oil with an aqueous liquid composition such as water or anti-lotion. radical.

D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention ressortiront clairement de la description qui en est donnée ci-dessous à titre indicatif et nullement limitatif.  Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge clearly from the description which is given below as an indication and in no way limiting.

La composition cosmétique de l'invention se présente sous forme de poudre contenant des grains abrasifs hydrosolubles. Plus précisément, ces grains sont non liposolubles de sorte que lorsque la poudre est mélangée avec de l'huile, les grains abrasifs se répartissent de façon homogène dans l'huile en formant un produit gommant apte à s'utiliser comme les produits connus, à savoir par application sur la peau, massage et rinçage.  The cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of a powder containing water-soluble abrasive grains. More specifically, these grains are non-fat soluble so that when the powder is mixed with oil, the abrasive grains are distributed homogeneously in the oil forming a gumming product suitable for use as the known products, to know by application on the skin, massage and rinse.

Selon l'invention, les grains abrasifs sont hydrosolubles, ce dont il résulte que lors du rinçage à l'eau ou avec, de façon plus générale, une solution aqueuse, les sels fondent et sont éliminés de la surface de la peau rapidement et efficacement.  According to the invention, the abrasive grains are water-soluble, which results that when rinsing with water or with, more generally, an aqueous solution, the salts melt and are removed from the surface of the skin quickly and effectively .

Selon l'invention, les grains abrasifs hydrosolubles sont des sels du désert de Kalahari . Le Kalahari est un désert et sem i-aride sablonneux couvrant une large partie du Botswana et s'étendant vers la Namibie et l'Afrique du Sud.  According to the invention, the water-soluble abrasive grains are salts of the Kalahari desert. The Kalahari is a sandy desert and semi-arid covering a large part of Botswana and extending to Namibia and South Africa.

Les sels subissent une opération de tamisage afin d'utiliser dans le cadre de la composition de l'invention, des sels de diamètre inférieur à 200 micromètres.  The salts undergo a sieving operation in order to use in the context of the composition of the invention, salts with a diameter of less than 200 microns.

La Demanderesse a effectué des tests comparatifs de différents grains abrasifs hydrosolubles. A cet effet, le sucre ainsi que le sel marin ont été testés. Le sucre et le sel marin se sont avérés inadaptés. Pour le sucre, la taille trop importante des grains limite l'efficacité de l'action exfoliante. Pour ce qui est des sels marins, ces derniers gonflent lorsqu'ils sont en suspension dans l'huile, provoquant également une baisse considérable d'efficacité de l'action exfoliante. The Applicant has carried out comparative tests of different water-soluble abrasive grains. For this purpose, sugar and sea salt have have been tested. Sugar and sea salt have proved unsuitable. For sugar, too large grain size limits the effectiveness of the exfoliating action. As for the marine salts, they swell when they are suspended in the oil, also causing a considerable decrease in effectiveness of the exfoliating action.

La dureté et la stabilité des sels du désert de Kalahari permettent d'assurer à ces sels une action exfoliante efficace. L'utilisation de ces sels de diamètre inférieur à 200 micromètres permet d'obtenir une efficacité optimum de l'action exfoliante sans provoquer d'irritation cutanée,  The hardness and stability of the Kalahari Desert salts ensure that these salts have an effective exfoliating action. The use of these salts with a diameter of less than 200 micrometers makes it possible to obtain optimum effectiveness of the exfoliating action without causing skin irritation,

Par ailleurs, les sels du désert de Kalahari sont chargés de minéraux, éléments essentiels dans le processus de réhydratation de la peau et dans le ralentissement du vieillissement cutané.  In addition, the salts of the Kalahari desert are laden with minerals, essential elements in the process of rehydration of the skin and in the slowing down of skin aging.

Notamment, ces sels contiennent du potassium qui favorise l'équilibre cutanée, le sodium qui maintient le bon équilibre hydrique et agit comme agent de détoxification, le magnésium qui stimule la régénération cellulaire et agit comme agent anti-stress, et enfin le calcium qui protège les tissus cutanés et améliore la fonction barrière de la peau.  In particular, these salts contain potassium that promotes skin balance, sodium that maintains the proper moisture balance and acts as a detoxifying agent, magnesium that stimulates cell regeneration and acts as an anti-stress agent, and finally the calcium that protects cutaneous tissue and improves the barrier function of the skin.

La poudre de l'invention comprend également un agent nettoyant qui, lorsqu'il est mis en contact avec une solution aqueuse, assure le nettoyage de la peau.  The powder of the invention also comprises a cleaning agent which, when it is brought into contact with an aqueous solution, ensures the cleaning of the skin.

Ainsi, lorsque la poudre est mélangée à une solution aqueuse, on obtient une lotion nettoyante exempte des sels du désert de Kalahari à l'état solide puisque ces derniers se dissolvent dans la solution aqueuse.  Thus, when the powder is mixed with an aqueous solution, there is obtained a cleansing lotion free of salts of the Kalahari desert in the solid state since they dissolve in the aqueous solution.

Lorsque l'utilisateur souhaite effectuer un gommage, il mélange la poudre à de l'huile, effectue le gommage et le rinçage. Lors du rinçage, l'agent nettoyant est activé de sorte qu'il vient renforcer le nettoyage de la peau après le processus de gommage.  When the user wishes to perform a scrub, he mixes the powder with oil, performs the exfoliation and rinsing. During rinsing, the cleaning agent is activated so that it reinforces the cleansing of the skin after the scrubbing process.

L'agent nettoyant doit se présenter sous forme de poudre, son action nettoyante doit être activée par mélange avec une solution aqueuse et il doit être compatible avec les sels du désert de Kalahari lorsqu'ils sont solubilisés. A cet effet, l'agent nettoyant utilisé est de l'amilite, qui est un tensio-actif.  The cleaning agent must be in powder form, its cleaning action must be activated by mixing with an aqueous solution and it must be compatible with the salts of the Kalahari desert when they are solubilized. For this purpose, the cleaning agent used is amilite, which is a surfactant.

Le Tableau 1 ci-dessous montre la composition de la poudre de l'invention comprenant les sels du désert de Kalahari. Ingrédient % massique Table 1 below shows the composition of the powder of the invention comprising the salts of the Kalahari Desert. Ingredient% mass

Sels du désert de Kalahari de  Salts from the Kalahari Desert of

71 ,87  71, 87

diamètre inférieur à 200 micromètres diameter less than 200 micrometers

Amilite 25  Amilite 25

Allantoine 1 ,25  Allantoine 1, 25

Agent moussant 1 ,25  Foaming agent 1, 25

Exo-T 0,63  Exo-T 0.63

Tableau 1 Outre les sels du désert de Kalahari et l'amilite déjà exposés précédemment, la poudre de l'invention comporte également les composés suivants : Table 1 In addition to the salts of the Kalahari desert and the amilite already described above, the powder of the invention also comprises the following compounds:

- l'allantoine qui agit comme actif apaisant en venant compenser l'action de l'amilite et des sels du désert de Kalahari.  - allantoin, which acts as a soothing active ingredient by compensating for the action of amilite and salts of the Kalahari desert.

- un agent moussant, et  a foaming agent, and

- I'exo-Τ qui a une action enzymatique venant renforcer l'effet du gommage.  - exo-Τ which has an enzymatic action to reinforce the effect of the exfoliation.

Dans le cadre de l'invention, on fournit un kit cosmétique comprenant la poudre décrite précédemment et de l'huile. La poudre et l'huile sont présentées dans des flacons distincts.  In the context of the invention, there is provided a cosmetic kit comprising the powder described above and oil. The powder and the oil are presented in separate flasks.

L'huile est destinée à être soit utilisée seule comme huile démaquillante, soit mélangée avec la poudre pour former une huile exfoliante.  The oil is intended to be used alone as a cleansing oil, or mixed with the powder to form an exfoliating oil.

L'huile du kit de l'invention comprend de l'huile de Marula.  The oil of the kit of the invention comprises Marula oil.

Le Marula est un arbre originaire de Namibie et d'Afrique du Sud. The Marula is a tree native to Namibia and South Africa.

L'huile contenue dans les noyaux de ses fruits renferme un taux élevé de vitamine C, ainsi qu'un apport considérable en vitamines, minéraux et en antioxydants. The oil contained in the kernels of its fruits contains a high level of vitamin C, as well as a considerable intake of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

Dans l'huile d u kit de l'invention, le Marula est utilisé pour ses propriétés revitalisantes, nutritives, protectrices, cicatricielles, mais également pour ses propriétés émollientes et ainsi, ses capacités d'hydratation.  In the oil of the kit of the invention, Marula is used for its revitalizing, nutritive, protective and scarring properties, but also for its emollient properties and thus, its hydration capacities.

L'huile de l'invention comporte d'autres émollients qui présentent chacun des propriétés différentes de pénétration dans la peau. L'huile de l'invention comporte également au moins un émulsionnant. La présence de cet émulsionnant est importante pour le rinçage de l'huile. En effet, le rinçage de l'huile avec une solution aqueuse doit conduire à une élimination optimale de l'huile. L'émulsionnant contenu dans l'huile permet donc de former, au contact avec la solution aqueuse de rinçage, une émulsion facilitant l'élimination de l'huile. The oil of the invention comprises other emollients which each have different properties of penetration into the skin. The oil of the invention also comprises at least one emulsifier. The presence of this emulsifier is important for rinsing the oil. Indeed, the rinsing of the oil with an aqueous solution must lead to an optimal elimination of the oil. The emulsifier contained in the oil thus makes it possible to form, in contact with the aqueous rinsing solution, an emulsion facilitating the elimination of the oil.

Enfin, l'huile du kit de l'invention comprend un antioxydant permettant de conserver l'huile en compensant son caractère oxydant.  Finally, the oil of the kit of the invention comprises an antioxidant for preserving the oil by offsetting its oxidative nature.

Le Tableau 2 ci-dessous indique deux formulations possibles de l'huile du kit de l'invention. La fonction de chacun des ingrédients est indiquée conformément à la description qui en a été faite précédemment.  Table 2 below indicates two possible formulations of the kit oil of the invention. The function of each of the ingredients is indicated in accordance with the description that has been made previously.

Figure imgf000007_0001
Figure imgf000007_0001

Tableau 2 Table 2

Le kit cosmétique peut également comprendre une lotion aqueuse, présentée dans un flacon distinct du flacon de l'huile et de l'eau. The cosmetic kit may also include an aqueous lotion, presented in a separate bottle of the oil and water bottle.

La lotion aqueuse peut être utilisée seule comme lotion rafraîchissante à action anti-radicalaire, comme il sera expliqué pour loin, ou comme lotion de rinçage de l'huile du kit de l'invention utilisée comme huile démaquillante ou comme huile exfoliante par mélange avec la poudre de l'invention. La lotion aqueuse du kit de l'invention comprend un extrait de rooibos. The aqueous lotion may be used alone as a refreshing lotion with an anti-radical action, as will be explained for a long time, or as an oil rinsing lotion of the kit of the invention used as a make-up removing oil or as an exfoliating oil by mixing with the powder of the invention. The aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention comprises a rooibos extract.

Le roiboos est une plante d'origine africaine qui est la seule plante au monde à contenir un flavonoïde aux propriétés anti-radicalaires puissantes, l'aspalathine. Le rooibos s'oppose ainsi à la propagation de la chaîne de peroxydation lipidique, principale cause du vieillissement cutané et protège les cellules du stress oxydatif.  Roiboos is a plant of African origin which is the only plant in the world to contain a flavonoid with powerful anti-radical properties, aspalathine. Rooibos is thus opposed to the spread of the lipid peroxidation chain, the main cause of skin aging and protects cells from oxidative stress.

La lotion aqueuse du kit de l'invention comporte en outre les composés suivants :  The aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention further comprises the following compounds:

- un hydratant de la famille des humectants améliorant la pénétration de l'eau dans la peau et donc, son hydratation,  a moisturizer of the family of humectants improving the penetration of water into the skin and therefore its hydration,

- un gélifiant permettant de tenir la consistance de la lotion,  - a gelling agent to maintain the consistency of the lotion,

- une poudre procurant une sensation de fraîcheur qui est dispersible dans l'alcool,  a powder giving a sensation of freshness which is dispersible in alcohol,

- de l'alcool pour assurer la dispersion de la poudre précitée,  alcohol to ensure the dispersion of the aforementioned powder,

- un actif hydratant et apaisant,  - a moisturizing and soothing active,

- de l'alcool dénaturé,  - denatured alcohol,

- un conservateur,  - A conservationist,

- un composé permettant d'ajuster le pH de la lotion à 5,5, en accord avec le pH de la peau et le pH optimal de conservation du conservateur, et a compound making it possible to adjust the pH of the lotion to 5.5, in accordance with the pH of the skin and the optimal pH of preservation of the preservative, and

- de l'eau déminéralisée. - demineralized water.

Le Tableau 3 ci-dessous indique une formulation de la lotion aqueuse du kit de l'invention. La fonction de chacun des ingrédients est indiquée conformément à la description qui en a été faite précédemment. Table 3 below indicates a formulation of the aqueous lotion of the kit of the invention. The function of each of the ingredients is indicated in accordance with the description that has been made previously.

Ingrédient Fonction % massique Ingredient Function% mass

Glycerin codex Hydratant - humectant 2  Glycerin codex moisturizer - humectant 2

Viscarin PC209 Gélifiant 0,1  Viscarin PC209 Gelling agent 0.1

WS23 Poudre - effet fraîcheur 0,1  WS23 Powder - freshness effect 0.1

Alcool 2  Alcohol 2

Betafin BP20 Hydratant - apaisant 2  Betafin BP20 Moisturizer - soothing 2

Rooibos herbasec 1  Rooibos herbasec 1

Alcool dénaturé 1  Denatured alcohol 1

Microcare SB Conservateur 1  Microcare SB Conservative 1

Purac Hipure 90 Ajustement pH 0,13  Purac Hipure 90 pH Adjustment 0.13

Eau déminéralisée 90,67  Demineralized water 90.67

Tableau 3 Table 3

L'invention porte ainsi principalement sur une composition comprenant des grains abrasifs hydrosolubles permettant, lorsqu'ils sont en suspension dans de l'huile, d'être utilisée pour effectuer un gommage de la peau, notamment du visage, et lorsqu'ils sont en contact avec une solution aqueuse, d'être dissous et d'être ainsi éliminés rapidement et efficacement lors du rinçage de l'huile. The invention thus relates mainly to a composition comprising water-soluble abrasive grains which, when suspended in oil, can be used to scrub the skin, especially the face, and when they are in contact with the skin. contact with an aqueous solution, to be dissolved and thus be eliminated quickly and efficiently when rinsing the oil.

Dans la description faite précédemment, on utilise une poudre contenant les grains abrasifs destinée à être mélangé avec de l'huile. Mais dans le cadre de l'invention, on peut prévoir une huile exfoliante contenant les grains abrasifs hydrosolubles tels que les sels du désert de Kalahari, obtenue par exemple par mélange de la poudre dont la composition est donnée dans le Tableau 1 et de l'huile dont la composition est donnée dans le Tableau 2. La composition ainsi formée est une huile exfoliante contenant des grains abrasifs en suspension qui se solubilisent au contact avec une solution aqueuse.  In the description made previously, a powder containing the abrasive grains intended to be mixed with oil is used. However, in the context of the invention, an exfoliating oil may be provided containing the water-soluble abrasive grains such as the salts of the Kalahari desert, obtained for example by mixing the powder whose composition is given in Table 1 and the oil composition of which is given in Table 2. The composition thus formed is an exfoliating oil containing abrasive grains in suspension which solubilize on contact with an aqueous solution.

L'invention porte également sur un kit cosmétique contenant notamment de la poudre dont la composition est donnée dans le Tableau 1 et qui est présentée dans un premier flacon, et de l'huile dont la composition est donnée dans le Tableau 2 et qui présentée dans un deuxième flacon.  The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit containing especially the powder whose composition is given in Table 1 and which is presented in a first bottle, and the oil whose composition is given in Table 2 and which is presented in a second bottle.

L'utilisateur a alors le choix entre trois applications. Soit il utilise l'huile seule comme huile démaquillante, soit il utilise la poudre comme nettoyant en la mélangeant avec une solution aqueuse, par exemple de l'eau, soit il mélange la poudre avec l'huile pour former une huile exfoliante. The user then has the choice between three applications. Either it uses the oil alone as a cleansing oil, or it uses the powder as a cleaner by mixing it with an aqueous solution, for example water, or it mixes the powder with the oil to form an exfoliating oil.

Dans ce dernier cas, il utilisera de préférence une proportion de 2/3 de poudre et 1/3 d'huile.  In the latter case, it will preferably use a proportion of 2/3 of powder and 1/3 of oil.

Le kit de l'invention peut comporter en outre une lotion aqueuse qui pourra, soit être utilisée seule comme lotion rafraîchissante à propriété anti- radicalaire grâce à la présence de Rooibos, soit comme lotion de rinçage de l'huile utilisée soit comme huile démaquillante, soit comme huile exfoliante.  The kit of the invention may further comprise an aqueous lotion which may either be used alone as a refreshing lotion with an anti-radical property thanks to the presence of Rooibos, or as a rinsing lotion for the oil used or as a make-up removal oil, as an exfoliating oil.

Lorsque le kit comporte la poudre, l'huile et la lotion aqueuse, l'utilisateur aura le choix entre cinq applications cosmétiques.  When the kit includes powder, oil and aqueous lotion, the user will have the choice between five cosmetic applications.

Le kit de l'invention répond à une problématique courante des utilisateurs de produits cosmétiques sui concernent le nombre important de produits utilisés et la difficulté pour les transporter lors d'un voyage par exemple. Le kit de l'invention permet d'avoir avec trois produits, cinq utilisations : un démaquillant, un nettoyant, une huile exfoliante, une lotion rafraîchissante et une lotion de rinçage de l'huile.  The kit of the invention addresses a common problem of users of cosmetic products sui concern the large number of products used and the difficulty to transport them during a trip for example. The kit of the invention allows to have with three products, five uses: a cleanser, a cleanser, an exfoliating oil, a refreshing lotion and an oil rinse lotion.

La composition et le kit de l'invention peuvent être aussi bien utilisés sur la peau du visage que sur la peau du corps.  The composition and the kit of the invention may be used both on the skin of the face and on the skin of the body.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS 1 . Composition cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte au moins un composé exfoliant constitué de grains abrasifs hydrosolubles qui agissent sur la peau par exfoliation mécanique et se dissolvent dans une solution aqueuse, les grains abrasifs hydrosolubles étant des sels du désert de Kalahari de diamètre inférieur à 200 micromètres. 1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one exfoliating compound consisting of water-soluble abrasive grains which act on the skin by mechanical exfoliation and dissolve in an aqueous solution, the water-soluble abrasive grains being salts of the Kalahari desert of smaller diameter at 200 micrometers. 2. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme de poudre et en ce qu'elle est apte à former une huile exfoliante lorsqu'elle est mélangée à une composition liquide à base d'huile. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in powder form and in that it is capable of forming an exfoliating oil when it is mixed with a liquid composition based on oil. 3. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte au moins un agent nettoyant sous forme de poudre et en ce qu'elle est apte à former une lotion nettoyante lorsqu'elle est mélangée à une solution aqueuse. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one cleaning agent in powder form and in that it is capable of forming a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with an aqueous solution. 4. Kit cosmétique, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition cosmétique selon les revendications 2 et 3 et en ce qu'il comprend en outre une huile, et une lotion aqueuse. 4. Cosmetic kit, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic composition according to claims 2 and 3 and in that it further comprises an oil, and an aqueous lotion. 5. Kit cosmétique selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que l'huile comprend au moins de l'huile de Marula. 5. Cosmetic kit according to claim 4, characterized in that the oil comprises at least Marula oil. 6. Kit cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 et 5, caractérisé en ce que l'huile comprend au moins un émulsionnant, de façon à former une émulsion au contact d'une solution aqueuse telle que la lotion aqueuse. 6. Cosmetic kit according to any one of claims 4 and 5, characterized in that the oil comprises at least one emulsifier, so as to form an emulsion in contact with an aqueous solution such as the aqueous lotion. 7. Kit cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 6, caractérisé en ce que la lotion aqueuse est apte à former une lotion nettoyante lorsqu'elle est mélangée avec la poudre selon la revendication 4. 7. Cosmetic kit according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the aqueous lotion is able to form a cleaning lotion when it is mixed with the powder according to claim 4. 8. Kit cosmétique selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que la solution aqueuse comprend au moins un agent anti-radicalaire constitué de8. Cosmetic kit according to claim 7, characterized in that the aqueous solution comprises at least one anti-radical agent consisting of Rooibos, et en ce qu'elle est apte à former une lotion anti radicalaire lorsqu'elle est utilisée seule, et à former une lotion nettoyante à effet anti radicalaire lorsqu'elle est utilisée avec la poudre selon la revendication 3. Rooibos, and in that it is able to form an anti-radical lotion when used alone, and to form an anti-free radical cleansing lotion when used with the powder of claim 3. 9. Utilisation du kit cosmétique selon les revendications 4 à 6 pour, au choix de l'utilisateur, 9. Use of the cosmetic kit according to claims 4 to 6 for the user's choice, - effectuer un soin nettoyant par mélange de la poudre avec une solution aqueuse telle que de l'eau,  carry out a cleaning treatment by mixing the powder with an aqueous solution such as water, - effectuer un soin démaquillant par application de l'huile sur la peau, - perform a cleansing care by applying the oil on the skin, - effectuer un soin exfoliant par mélange de la poudre avec l'huile, suivi d'une action combinée de rinçage et de nettoyage de la peau par mélange de l'huile exfoliante avec une composition liquide aqueuse telle que de l'eau. - Carry out an exfoliating treatment by mixing the powder with the oil, followed by a combined action of rinsing and cleaning the skin by mixing the exfoliating oil with an aqueous liquid composition such as water. 10. Utilisation du kit cosmétique selon les revendications 7 et 8 pour, au choix de l'utilisateur, 10. Use of the cosmetic kit according to claims 7 and 8 for the user's choice, - effectuer un soin nettoyant par mélange de la poudre avec une solution aqueuse telle que de l'eau ou la lotion aqueuse,  - Carry out a cleansing treatment by mixing the powder with an aqueous solution such as water or the aqueous lotion, - effectuer un soin démaquillant par application de l'huile sur la peau, - perform a cleansing care by applying the oil on the skin, - effectuer un soin anti radicalaire par application de la lotion anti radicalaire sur la peau, - perform an anti-radical care by applying anti-free radical lotion to the skin, - effectuer un soin exfoliant par mélange de la poudre avec l'huile suivi d'une action combinée de rinçage et de nettoyage de la peau par mélange de l'huile exfoliante avec une composition liquide aqueuse telle que de l'eau ou la lotion anti radicalaire.  - Carry out an exfoliating treatment by mixing the powder with the oil followed by a combined action of rinsing and cleaning the skin by mixing the exfoliating oil with an aqueous liquid composition such as water or anti-lotion. radical.
PCT/FR2011/052723 2010-11-23 2011-11-22 Cosmetic composition for exerting an exfoliating action, cosmetic kit and uses Ceased WO2012069754A1 (en)

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