WO2011078316A1 - Woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a technique by which even a woven or knitted fabric containing a non-thermoplastic natural or regenerated fiber can be molded and by which even a light-colored woven or knitted fabric containing a lowly heat-resistant thermoplastic fiber such as nylon or polypropylene can be molded without suffering from yellowing or stiffening after the molding. Disclosed is a woven or knitted fabric which is essentially composed of yarn that contains both an elastic fiber and at least one non-elastic fiber and which has been subjected to molding. The elastic fiber contains a heat-fusible polyurethane elastic fiber having a finesses of 17dtex or more, and in the woven or knitted fabric, the heat-fusible polyurethane elastic fiber is at least partially heat-fused. The woven or knitted fabric is produced through molding at 120 to 190°C.

Description

Woven knitting

The present invention relates to a molded knitted fabric. In particular, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric that is provided with good moldability by using heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers.

Attempts to impart moldability to woven fabrics or knitted fabrics by arranging thermoplastic fibers are known. Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-98446 (Patent Document 1) discloses a technique of performing molding using polyurethane elastic fibers having a high heat setting rate. Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2006-225817 (Patent Document 2) discloses a technique for performing molding using polyurethane elastic fibers and nylon fibers.

However, none of the techniques can be said to have sufficient moldability. Furthermore, according to such a technique, the molding process is performed by applying excessive heat, so that the thermoplastic fiber of the surface yarn is cured, and as a result, the texture of the resulting woven fabric or knitted fabric is poor and tinged. There is a case.

In the technique described in Patent Document 2, when molding is performed on a woven or knitted fabric including elastic fibers (polyurethane elastic fibers), synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester having high thermoplasticity are mixed as surface yarns and processed at a high temperature. Is the premise. This is to suppress the force that the polyurethane elastic fiber contracts by setting the mixed synthetic fiber at a certain rate by heat. When such high-temperature processing is premised, it is practically impossible to mold a fabric mainly composed of natural fibers and recycled fibers having no thermoplasticity.

In the case of high-temperature processing as described above, if the dyed fabric is molded, the dye sublimates due to the heat generated during the molding process, so the color of the processed part may change or In many cases, the product deteriorates, and only products with low product performance can be obtained. Furthermore, in the case of high-temperature processing, the fabric is yellowed by heat and cannot be used for a light-colored fabric. For this reason, even if only a part of the molded fabric can be cut out and used, only a desired portion of the integrated fabric cannot be molded and used as it is.

Furthermore, when molding a fabric mainly composed of natural fibers and regenerated fibers and not containing polyurethane elastic fibers, it is necessary to apply heat of 200 ° C. or higher. As a result, natural fibers and recycled fibers turn yellow. On the other hand, when polyurethane elastic fibers are used in combination with natural fibers and regenerated fibers, shrinkage occurs due to the elasticity of polyurethane, so that it is virtually impossible to mold with fabrics using natural fibers or regenerated fibers and polyurethane elastic fibers. .

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2008-138298 (Patent Document 3) discloses a technique for performing mold processing using a thread excellent in low-temperature setting property. However, although this yarn has excellent formability from a low temperature range, the appropriate range of processing temperature is narrow, so there are many restrictions in the dyeing process when creating a base fabric for molding, and there are fibers that can be shared. Limited. Furthermore, if the heat treatment temperature, mold processing temperature, or the like at the time of creating the base fabric is shifted to a high temperature side, there is a problem that the polyurethane elastic fiber is broken. Due to the yarn breakage of the polyurethane elastic fiber, the molded fabric is easily deformed, has no stretchability, and is inferior in appearance.

The present applicant has proposed a technique for achieving heat setting property, prevention of misalignment, and the like by using heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers in a woven or knitted fabric including polyurethane elastic fibers (Patent Documents 4 and 5). However, this technology is limited to prevention of misalignment and fraying.

JP 2001-98446 A JP 2006-225817 A JP 2008-138298 A International Publication No. 2004-53218 JP 2007-182649 A

The present invention has been made to solve the above-described problems of the prior art, and the object of the present invention is to obtain mold processability even in a woven or knitted fabric containing natural fibers and recycled fibers without thermoplasticity. In addition, even for woven and knitted fabrics that contain thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polypropylene with low heat resistance, to provide a technology that enables molding of light-colored fabrics without yellowing and hardening of the fabric after processing. It is in.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventor can obtain mold processability even when used in combination with natural fibers and recycled fibers having no thermoplasticity by using a predetermined heat-fusion polyurethane. The present invention has been completed.

The molded woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a yarn including elastic fibers and at least one non-elastic fiber; the elastic fibers include a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber of 17 dtex or more; At least a portion of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is heat-sealed; molded at 120-190 ° C.
In a preferred embodiment, the elastic fiber is a polyurethane elastic fiber, the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the fabric is 5% or more, and the mixing ratio of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber in the polyurethane elastic fiber is 50% or more.
In a preferred embodiment, the woven or knitted fabric has a color fading grade (conforming to JIS L0804) of grade 3 or higher after being dyed and molded.
In a preferred embodiment, the woven or knitted fabric has a molding rate after molding of 20% or more.

According to the present invention, mold processability can be obtained even with a woven or knitted fabric containing non-thermoplastic natural fibers or recycled fibers, and even with a woven or knitted fabric containing thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polypropylene having low heat resistance, it can be processed. It is possible to mold the light-colored fabric without yellowing and curing the subsequent fabric.

The molded knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following operations and effects.
(1) Formability can be ensured without losing the texture of the surface yarn and without curing.
(2) Natural fibers and recycled fibers can be used for the surface yarn, and polypropylene fibers that can only be used in low-temperature processing or yarns with special functions such as contact cooling and heat generation can be used in combination. .
(3) A fabric having a high color fading grade after molding can be obtained.
(4) Even if the fabric after dyeing is molded, there is little change in texture and yellowing of the fabric, so that a product in which all parts are integrated can be obtained as a product. That is, it can be obtained by molding only a part of the front body, the back body, etc., without cutting out a part and performing separate processing and sewing.
(5) Since it is a heat-sealed fabric, it has a fraying, run, and curl-inhibiting effect, and the cut portion can be used without being cut.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a yarn containing elastic fibers and at least one type of inelastic fiber, and is molded. The elastic fiber includes a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber of 17 dtex or more, and at least a part of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber is heat-sealed in the woven or knitted fabric. Mold processing is performed at 120 to 190 ° C.

As the elastic fiber, an elastic fiber well known in the art can be used. Preferably, it is a polyurethane elastic fiber. As the polyurethane elastic fiber, a polyurethane elastic fiber well known in the art can be used.

As long as the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber capable of heat-sealing the intersections between the polyurethane elastic fibers, its composition, production method and the like are not particularly limited. Absent.

For example, (1) a polyol and an excess molar amount of diisocyanate are reacted to produce a polyurethane intermediate polymer having isocyanate groups at both ends, and easily react with the isocyanate groups of the intermediate polymer. A method of forming a polyurethane solution (polymer solution) by reacting a low molecular weight diamine having active hydrogen or a low molecular weight diol in an inert organic solvent, and then removing the solvent to form a yarn; (2) polyol A method of solidifying a polymer obtained by reacting a diisocyanate with a low molecular weight diamine or a low molecular weight diol, dissolving the polymer in a solvent, and then removing the solvent to form a yarn; (3) dissolving the solidified polymer in the solvent (4) The above polyol, diisocyanate and low molecular weight diol To obtain a polymer and form the polymer without solidifying the polymer; or (5) after mixing the polymer or polymer solution obtained by each of the above methods, the solvent is removed from the mixed polymer solution. And a method of forming into a yarn.

Preferably, the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is a both-end isocyanate group prepolymer (A) obtained by reacting a polyol and a diisocyanate, and a both-end hydroxyl group prepolymer obtained by reacting a polyol, a diisocyanate and a low molecular weight diol. It can be obtained by a method of melt spinning a polymer obtained by reacting the polymer (B). This method is preferable in terms of economy or environment because it does not involve recovery of the solvent.

Furthermore, it is preferable that the composition contains 50% by mass or more of the polyether polyol among the polyol components in the raw material. If it is such a composition, since the polymer excellent in alkali resistance can be obtained, the condition restrictions at the time of dyeing a common fiber can be reduced.

The heat-sealing performance of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 0.15 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 0.30 cN / dtex or more. If the heat fusion force is less than 0.15 cN / dtex, satisfactory mold processability may not be obtained.

For example, in the case of a knitted fabric, the heat fusion force is measured as follows.
The knitted fabric is cut in the course direction, and the deknitting tension of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber or the yarn containing the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber knitted in the cut portion is measured. The knitting speed is 100 mm / min, and the average knitting tension for 1 minute is measured. When continuous knitting is possible, the average knitting tension before and after heat treatment is measured, and then the average knitting tension (cN) after heat treatment is divided by the initial fineness (dtex) of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber. In this case, the heat fusion force (cN / dtex) is used. In addition, since the heat-sealing force is strong, it may be difficult to disassemble the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber. Needless to say, the thermal fusing force in this case is 0.15 cN / dtex or more, and it is judged as “complete fusing”.

The thickness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 17 dtex or more, more preferably 22 to 311 dtex, still more preferably 28 to 156 dtex, in terms of the texture of the resulting woven or knitted fabric. . If the polyurethane elastic fiber is thinner than 17 dtex, the area of the portion where the polyurethane elastic fibers are in contact with each other and heat-sealed, that is, the heat-sealing area becomes small, and as a result, the fabric setting property becomes low, and the desired It may be difficult to obtain moldability. The upper limit of the fineness is not particularly limited, but since the fabric becomes rubber-like at a thick fineness, generally a finer fineness tends to be preferred.

The heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention may be a yarn (bare yarn) composed only of a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber, a covering yarn (single covering yarn, double covering yarn), a twisted yarn, air It may be a composite yarn such as an entangled yarn. Among them, a covering yarn that can arrange a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber at the center of the composite yarn and that can easily control the coverage of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and that can be uniformly coated is preferable.

When a composite yarn (for example, covering yarn) is used as the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber, the non-elastic fiber coated around the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is not particularly limited. Examples of such inelastic fibers include natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate, and chemicals such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, and polypropylene. Synthetic fibers and the like can be used.

In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, as described above, the elastic fiber in the fabric is preferably a polyurethane elastic fiber, and the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the fabric is preferably 5% or more, more preferably 8% or more. More preferably, it is 10% or more. The upper limit of the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fibers is preferably 35%, more preferably 25%. Furthermore, the mixing ratio of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber in the polyurethane elastic fiber is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 80% or more, and further preferably 100%. When the mixing ratio of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers is within such a range, a fabric having higher moldability can be obtained by increasing the heat-sealable area between the polyurethane elastic fibers.

As the inelastic fiber constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, inelastic fibers well known in the art can be used. Specific examples of the non-elastic fiber include those described above with respect to the case where the composite yarn is used as the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber.

The molded knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention is generally manufactured as follows.
First, at least one type of the non-elastic fiber and the elastic fiber including a bare yarn of the heat-fusion polyurethane elastic fiber or a composite yarn containing the heat-fusion polyurethane elastic fiber are prepared. Using these elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers, a fabric is obtained as a woven or knitted fabric by weaving or knitting, etc., and then heat fusion of at least some of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers by heat treatment of heat setting or molding. Put on.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be composed of a woven fabric or a knitted fabric depending on its application. When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is made of, for example, a woven fabric, any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and the like may be used. Moreover, when using a knitted fabric, well-known knitting methods, such as warp knitting and weft knitting, can be used appropriately.

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of, for example, a knitted fabric, a knitted fabric obtained by plating knitting a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and at least one inelastic fiber is preferable. The knitted fabric obtained by the plating knitting can stably heat-bond the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers to each other at the intersection of the stitches during heat treatment, and can fix the stitches.

As the weft knitted fabric used in the present invention, a flat knitted fabric, a rubber knitted fabric, a double-sided knitted fabric or the like can be used as appropriate. The flat knitting is preferable because the dough is finished thinly and there is no significant change in the shape of the needle loop and the sinker loop even if it is partially stretched by molding.

The draft ratio of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber when weaving or knitting the fabric is preferably 1.0 to 3.6 times, more preferably 2.0 to 3.0 times.

Next, the dough is processed in a normal process. For example, a series of processes of scouring-bleaching-preset-dying-final set is performed. Next, the processed fabric is molded. The molding process is preferably performed at a temperature of 120 to 190 ° C. By performing the mold processing at such a temperature, the knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention can have a grade of color change or fading of the fabric subjected to the mold processing after the dyeing process. If it is less than 120 degreeC, a moldability may become inadequate. When the temperature is 190 ° C. or higher, yellowing and hardening of the surface yarn may occur, and the discoloration grade may not be cleared. The color fading grade can be obtained in accordance with JIS L0804.

The mold processing is typically performed as follows. Further, the molding rate is calculated as follows.
An iron spherical jig (diameter 105 mm, weight 1.5 kg) as a mold processing jig is heated to a predetermined processing temperature with a dryer. When the temperature of the jig has stabilized, the jig is pressed against the fabric that has been left unstretched for 1 minute to be molded. At this time, the jig is submerged 70 mm. After standing at room temperature for 30 minutes, the indentation depth of the dough is measured, and the ratio with respect to the depth of 70 mm at the time of molding is calculated as the molding rate.

In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the molding rate is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more, and further preferably 30% or more. It is one of the achievements of the present invention that such a molding rate (mold processability) and an excellent color fading grade are compatible.

Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are shown and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not limited by these Examples.

<Example 1>
Using 60/1 cotton as the front yarn and Mobilon R (22 dtex: bare yarn) as the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber, the plate was knitted with a circular knitting machine (28 gauge) to prepare a plain knitted fabric. After this plain knitted fabric was dyed by a normal process, it was molded. Table 1 shows the details of the fibers used and the evaluation results of the mold processing.

In the table, Mobilon R is a registered trademark of Nisshinbo Textile Co., Ltd., Roika is a registered trademark of Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., and ESPAR is a registered trademark of Toyobo Co., Ltd. Further, bare represents polyurethane elastic fiber bare yarn, SCY represents single covering yarn, PP represents polypropylene, and PU represents polyurethane elastic fiber.

<Examples 2 to 6>
Using the fibers shown in Table 1, processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. In addition, the structure of the heat-fusion polyurethane elastic fiber (SCY) used in Example 2 is as follows.
Core: heat fusion polyurethane elastic fiber (Mobilon R), sheath: nylon (13 dtex)
Draft magnification: 2.3 times, number of twists: 600 T / m
Table 1 shows the details of the fibers used for knitting and the evaluation results of the mold processing at the same magnification during the creation of the fabric. Examples 2 to 6 were carried out by changing the fineness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and / or the type of inelastic fiber used in combination.

<Comparative Examples 1 to 5>
Using the fibers shown in Table 2, processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the details of the fibers used and the evaluation results of the mold processing. Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were performed using elastic fibers other than the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fibers. Both leuca and ESPAR used in the comparative examples are polyurethane fibers that do not have heat-fusibility.

Table 3 shows the results of tests conducted to confirm the formability of the used yarn. The test was conducted according to the following procedure.
Polyester 33T10 filament is used for the front yarn, polyurethane elastic fiber of Table 3 is used for the back yarn, and draft ratio is 2. using a pantyhose knitting machine (L416 / R made by Lonati, hook diameter: 4 inches, number of needles: 400). A plating knitting was performed at 0 times to create a plain knitted fabric. This was stretched 1.2 times with both vertical and horizontal, and heat set at 150 ° C. for 60 seconds to obtain a base fabric. This fabric was evaluated for mold processability at 120 ° C. treatment and heat-sealing power of polyurethane elastic fibers.

As is apparent from Tables 1 and 2, it can be understood that each example of the present invention is excellent in both the forming ratio and the color fading grade. Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were inferior in moldability, and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 were inferior in color fading. In Comparative Example 3, the moldability was good, but the polyurethane elastic fiber was broken. Further, as is apparent from Tables 1 and 2, according to the present invention, mold processability can be obtained even with natural fibers and recycled fibers having no thermoplasticity, and the heat resistance is low. Even with a woven or knitted fabric containing thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polypropylene, the processed fabric is not yellowed, and a light-colored fabric can be molded. As a result, excellent moldability for bra cup parts, underwear such as shorts and girdle hips, knitted fabrics for inner sports such as swimwear, and fabrics for outerwear such as bottoms. And design design can be freely performed. In particular, since the surface yarn is not hardened, the texture of the fabric is good, and the use of natural fibers and regenerated fibers may cause skin damage such as rash even if it is in direct contact with delicate parts of the skin. There wasn't. In addition to the apparel field, it has become possible to apply to a wide range of applications, such as combining laminated materials with other materials.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used in the clothing field. For example, it can be suitably used as underwear such as brassiere cups, shorts, girdle hips, knitted fabrics for inner sports such as swimwear, and outer fabrics such as bottoms. Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used in other industrial fields, for example, as a laminate having elasticity.

Claims (4)

A woven or knitted fabric composed of a yarn including an elastic fiber and at least one type of inelastic fiber, and molded,
The elastic fiber includes a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber of 17 dtex or more,
In the woven or knitted fabric, at least a part of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber is heat-sealed,
Woven knitted fabric molded at 120-190 ° C. The elastic fiber is a polyurethane elastic fiber, the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fiber in the fabric is 5% or more, and the mixing ratio of the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber in the polyurethane elastic fiber is 50% or more. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1. The knitted or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the discoloration grade (based on JIS L0804) of the fabric subjected to molding after dyeing is grade 3 or higher. The woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a molding rate after molding is 20% or more.