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WO2011074142A1 - Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011074142A1
WO2011074142A1 PCT/JP2009/071733 JP2009071733W WO2011074142A1 WO 2011074142 A1 WO2011074142 A1 WO 2011074142A1 JP 2009071733 W JP2009071733 W JP 2009071733W WO 2011074142 A1 WO2011074142 A1 WO 2011074142A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
keratin fibers
moieties
silicone
composition
group
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/JP2009/071733
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English (en)
Inventor
Maxime De Boni
Hiroshi Takahashi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to JP2012528146A priority Critical patent/JP2013514272A/ja
Priority to EP09801567A priority patent/EP2512429A1/fr
Priority to CN2009801634622A priority patent/CN102770117A/zh
Priority to PCT/JP2009/071733 priority patent/WO2011074142A1/fr
Publication of WO2011074142A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011074142A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24Thermal properties

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a composition and a kit to be used for the process.
  • compositions and/or processes known as treatments for repairing damaged keratin fibers that have been proposed are still insufficient insofar as they are often temporary and do not achieve proper recovery of keratin fiber integrity.
  • Silicones are nowadays basic ingredients in the formulation of hair care products. For example, please refer to US-A-2008- 226576.
  • silicones Due to their hydrophibic moieties, silicones insure an effective coating onto the hair surface, providing cosmetic properties such as smoothness which enables the fingers to be smoothly run through the hair.
  • an objective of the present invention is to provide a new treatment process for keratin fibers such as hair, using a silicone, even with a relatively small amount thereof, which provides the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time.
  • composition comprising at least one silicone
  • composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and 0-COO " .
  • the above process may further comprise the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • Mechanical tension may be provided to the keratin fibers.
  • the mechanical tension may be provided by using at least one
  • reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a plate and an iron.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group
  • the keratin fibers may be heated at 50°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers may be heated by at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the coating means and/or the reshaping means may comprise the heater.
  • the silicone may not be volatile.
  • the silicone may be selected from the group consisting of
  • silicone fluid silicone wax, silicone gums, and silicone resins.
  • the silicone may be selected from the group consisting of
  • polydialkylsiloxanes polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one
  • the organomodified polysiloxanes may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes organomodified with at least one moiety chosen from amine moieties, C1-C4 alkoxy moieties, carboxyl moieties, acrylic moieties, and polyamine moieties.
  • the composition may comprise the silicone in an amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11.
  • compositions for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space comprising at least one silicone
  • composition is free of a reducing agent and/or of one or several sources of ions of the formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and 0-COO " .
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
  • a device comprising at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;
  • composition comprising at least one silicone
  • composition is free of a reducing agent and/or of one or several sources of ions of the formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 “ , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and O-COO " .
  • the above specific heating process is performed in a closed or occlusive environment, which limits the evaporation of water or moisture from the keratin fibers and maintains the keratin fibers at higher temperature preferably in the wet state. Accordingly, the keratin fibers can be evenly heated, and the silicone can easily penetrate into or deposit onto the keratin fibers such that it can remain in or on the keratin fibers for a long time even after some stresses such as shampooing.
  • the process according to the present invention can exhibit good cosmetic effects by using even a relatively small amount of a silicone as compared to a conventional process in which it is difficult for a silicone to stay on or in the keratin fibers.
  • composition used in the present invention must not contain any reducing agents such as thiol-compounds . Therefore, malodor derived from the reducing agents can be prevented. Furthermore, the composition used in the present invention must not contain any carbonate ion source as defined above. Therefore, cosmetic treatment is more effective, because there is no possibility of producing carbon dioxide which may form a foam that may inhibit the deposition or penetration of the silicone on or into the keratin fibers.
  • composition used for the present invention comprises at least one silicone.
  • the silicone may be selected from the group consisting of
  • polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) , polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety chosen from poly (oxyalkylene ) moieties, amine moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxylated moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamino moieties, acrylic moieties, polyamine moieties and oxazoline moieties, and silicone-based celluloses.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional moiety chosen from poly (oxyalkylene ) moieties, amine moieties, alkoxy moieties, hydroxylated moieties, acyloxyalkyl moieties, carboxylic acid moieties, hydroxyacylamin
  • Silicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear, and branched silicones, optionally modified with organic moieties, having a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ⁇ 6 to 2.5 m /s at 25°C, for example, from 1* 10 "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • Silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for
  • composition of the present invention may be in a form chosen from fluids, waxes, resins, and gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non volatile.
  • the silicones When they are volatile, the silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60°C to 260°C, for example: (i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, for instance, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethyl
  • SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING .
  • Cyclocopolymers of . the dimethyl siloxane/methylalkyl siloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula
  • D" is -Si—0 ;
  • D 1 is -Si—0-
  • Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with silicon derived organic compounds may also be used, such as an octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol
  • linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • a non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane marketed, for instance, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and
  • the silicones may be chosen from non volatile silicones, such as polydialkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polydiaryl siloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with the hereabove
  • the silicones are chosen from polydialkyl siloxanes, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.
  • the viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 standard Appendix C.
  • Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkyl siloxanes include:
  • SILBIONE® fluids of the series 47 and 70 047 and IRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA for example 70 047 fluid V 500 000;
  • fluids of the series 200 marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60, 000 mm 2 /s;
  • VISCASIL® fluids of GENERAL ELECTRIC and some fluids of the SF series (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18) of GENERAL ELECTRIC; and
  • Polydimethyl siloxanes with dimethyl silanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • Polydimethylsiloxane waxes may also be used.
  • Silicone gums suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkyl siloxanes, such as polydimethyl siloxanes having high number average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or as mixtures in a solvent.
  • This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) fluids, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) fluids, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicone gums may also be chosen, for example, from amodimethicones, such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by DOW CORNING, and the Belsil ADM LOG1 product marketed by WACKER.
  • combinations of silicones may also be used, such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethyl siloxane also called cyclomethicone
  • a polydimethyl siloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the SF 1214 Silicone Fluid product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such product being a SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, with a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product
  • mixtures of two PDMS with different viscosities for example, mixtures of a PDMS gum and a PDMS fluid, such as the SF 1236 product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC.
  • the SF 1236 product is a mixture of a SE 30 gum such as defined hereabove with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and a SF 96 fluid with a viscosity of 5 ⁇ 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • Such product may comprise 15% of a SE 30 gum and 85% of a SF 96 fluid.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, crosslinked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units: R2Si02/2 f R3S1O1 2, RS1O3/2, and Si0 4 / 2 , wherein R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group.
  • These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name “DOW CORNING 593” and those marketed under the trade names “SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267” by GENERAL ELECTRIC, that are dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structured silicones.
  • Resins of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type may also be used, for instance, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034, and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.
  • Polyalkylaryl siloxanes may be chosen from
  • polydimethyl/methylphenyl siloxanes linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:
  • PK series silicones from BAYER for example, the PK20 product
  • PN PH series silicones from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 and
  • PH1000 products PH1000 products
  • some SF series fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • Organomodified silicones which may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organofunctional moiety linked by means of a
  • Organomodified silicones may include, for example,
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C6-C2 alkyl moieties, such as products called
  • optionally substituted amine moieties for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING.
  • Substituted amine moieties may be chosen, for example, from amino C1-C4 alkyl moieties.
  • Aminosilicones may have additional C1-C4 alkoxy
  • alkoxylated moieties such as the product marketed under the trade name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434, and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
  • hydroxylated moieties such as hydroxyalkyl function-containing polyorganosiloxanes described, for instance, in French Patent Application No. FR-A-85 163 34;
  • acyloxyalkyl moieties for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,957,732;
  • anionic moieties of the carboxylic acid type for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and carboxylic alkyl anionic moieties, such as those present in the X-22-3701E product marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names
  • hydroxyacylamino moieties such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834.
  • a non- limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the Q2- 8413 product marketed by DOW CORNING; acrylic moieties, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;
  • silicones that may be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly ( 2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly (2- ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane) .
  • oxazoline groups for example, poly ( 2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly (2- ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane) .
  • OX-40 2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline
  • OS-88 2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane
  • Suitable silicone-based celluloses which may be used according to the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.
  • the silicone used according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 20%, for example, from 0.1 to 5%, such as from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used for the present invention is free of a reducing agent and/or of one or more sources of ions of the formula :
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 “ , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and O-COO " .
  • the pH of the composition may range from 3 to 11, preferably between 4.0 and 9.0, and more preferably between 6.0 to 8.0.
  • the pH of the composition is not relatively high or low, damage to the keratin fibers by the composition can be reduced.
  • an acidic or alkali agent (s) other than sources of ions of the invention may be used alone or in combination.
  • the amount of the acidic or alkali agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the acidic agents mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as citric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HC1) . HC1 is preferable.
  • alkali agents mention may be made of any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alcanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri- ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
  • R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally
  • Ri, R 2 , R3 and R 4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
  • monoethanolamine are preferred.
  • the composition used for the present invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic agent (s) .
  • the amount of the additional cosmetic agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic agent (s) may be selected from the group consisting of volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or not, silicones, cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolyzates, synthetic or natural waxes, and especially fatty alcohols, swelling agents and penetrating agents, as well as other active compounds, such as anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, agents for combating hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, associative-type or not, natural or synthetic thickeners,
  • suspending agents such as, but not limited to, benzyl alcohol, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl ether sulfate, benzyl, sorbitol, sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, benzyl sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfate, sulfonylurea sulfonylurea sulfonyl
  • the vehicle for the composition used for the present invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may
  • organic solvents which particularly include alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethylether or monobutylether .
  • the water may be present in a concentration of from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvent (s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used in the present invention may exist in any form such as a lotion, a gel, thickened or not, or a cream.
  • the process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention can be performed by
  • composition comprising at least one silicone, as described above;
  • keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to a specific heating process which is performed in an occlusive space.
  • the heating process can be performed by any heating means which can be freely controlled to realize the temperature desired for the process.
  • the heating process may preferably be performed by using a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • the evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition evaporate from the keratin fibers, most of the heat energy applied to the keratin fibers will be consumed by the evaporation, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers cannot increase up to the predetermined temperature until all evaporable components in the composition evaporate.
  • the above heating device may comprise a heat energy source being either in contact with keratin fibers or apart from keratin fibers, and at least one means to form an occlusive space
  • the heat energy source is used to heat keratin fibers.
  • the heat energy source may be at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • a plurality of coating means may be used.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.
  • the material of the film or the sheet is not limited.
  • the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.
  • the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the coating means may
  • the film or sheet which includes a heater may be set on a rod, a bar, or a plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the occlusive conditions can restrict the evaporation of
  • evaporable components such as water in the above-described
  • composition applied to keratin fibers and therefore the
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heating process or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions. Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and the keratin fibers can be heated evenly.
  • the occlusive space may comprise apertures, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the coating means.
  • the total surface area of the coating means comprises the surface area of, when it is present, an opening means for the coating means.
  • the apertures may be passages, holes or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the occlusive space and the exterior thereof, especially when the reaction such as forming vapor inside the occlusive space is too great.
  • a person skilled in the art could form the apertures such that the diffusion of heat in the occlusive space is not impaired.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 50°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 60°C to 150°C, more preferably 60°C to 90°C, during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the heating process may be performed for an appropriate time which is required to treat keratin fibers.
  • the time length for the heating process is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes.
  • the time for heating may be from 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fiber may be subjected to mechanical tension which is typically used for permanent
  • the permanent deformation process for keratin fibers when mechanical tension is applied to keratin fibers may be performed as follows.
  • keratin fibers are subjected to mechanical tension for deformation.
  • the mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape.
  • the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a plate and an iron.
  • the reshaping means may comprise at least one heater as described above. If the keratin fibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desired hairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performed with more or less thick locks .
  • the above-described composition is applied to the keratin fibers.
  • the application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
  • the keratin fibers to which the mechanical tension has been applied should be treated with the composition. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary.
  • the heat energy is applied to the keratin fibers under occlusive conditions as described above.
  • This process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers may be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers.
  • the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shorter than that for a conventional process which needs an oxidizing step. Furthermore, damage to the keratin fibers by the oxidizing step can be avoided.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • One embodiment of the cosmetic treatment process according to the present invention may be a process for reshaping or permanent deforming keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:
  • thermo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan), set on the keratin fibers. Normally, the probe is set on a single keratin fiber.
  • the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space, and more preferably, the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space and forms the curl end of the keratin fibers, if a curler is used.
  • the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101325 Pa.
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers may be constant with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3°C over the head, if the keratin fibers are hair, of an individual, and the probe may be set on any type of keratin fibers.
  • keratin fibers are hair, according to the present
  • the constant temperature with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3°C can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to be constant + 2 or 3°C during the heating of the hair at a certain temperature.
  • the hair style becomes uniform and homogeneous for the entirety of the hair, and a more excellent hair style can be finally obtained.
  • the coating means may comprise one or more thermal insulating materials, and more advantageously, the coating means may consist of the material (s).
  • thermal insulating material means any material which has an electric conductivity of 0 to 1 W/m°C (PVC: 0.17 W/m°C) .
  • the heating means may be adjusted such that the temperature measured on the keratin fibers is 50 °C or more, more preferably 55°C to less than 150°C, and further more preferably less than 100°C. It is preferable that the heating is performed by heating via electrical resistance.
  • the coating means is impermeable with regard to the composition used in the step b) .
  • at least one of the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means and at least one of the covering means may include a heater.
  • occlusive space means that when the coating means is placed on the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means, or vice versa, they together form a closed structure in which heat can diffuse, but heat cannot diffuse out of or is difficult to diffuse out of the closed structure.
  • the coating means and the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means can form the occlusive space when they are set on the head, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and a component or components in the composition used in the step b) may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers can be always kept wet, and drying and deteriorating of the keratin fibers will be prevented.
  • occlusive space is an important characteristic of the present invention, because the keratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be constant.
  • the process of the present invention may comprise an additional step of tightening the coating means on the head of an individual, if the keratin fibers are hair, by an elastic cord, an extensible band, or a stretch.
  • the amount of a cosmetic component or components in the composition is advantageously reduced as compared to the processes in the prior art.
  • the amount of the cosmetic component (s) may be 0.3 to 3wt% of the composition .
  • a coating means may be placed on each hair curler as the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • each of the hair curlers if two or more hair curlers are used, may be covered individually by a coating means. It is advantageous to cover each hair curler because leaking to the scalp of the composition which has been applied onto keratin fibers in the step b) can be prevented.
  • a coating means may cover all hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used.
  • the coating means may cover the entirety of the head if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space formed in the step d) may be maintained during the step e) .
  • the coating means may be removed only after the step e) or after the stop of the heating in the step e) .
  • the composition may be applied to keratin fibers before applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary, before and/or after
  • the keratin fibers may be fixed by oxidation after being taken out from the coating means.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one silicone,
  • composition is free of a reducing agent and/or of one or several sources of ions of the formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, NH 2 , 0- OH, and 0-COO " .
  • This composition may not need to be used in combination with an oxidizing agent which is used in a conventional permanent
  • the composition may be used in one step, whereas two steps (reducing step and oxidizing step) are necessary in the conventional permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
  • This composition may have the same technical features as those of the composition described above.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
  • At least one reshaping means to provide the keratin fibers with mechanical tension
  • At least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the
  • composition comprising at least one silicone wherein the
  • composition is free of a reducing agent and/or of one or several sources of ions of the formula:
  • X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0 " , OH, N3 ⁇ 4, O-OH, and O-COO " .
  • the coating means and the heater, as well as the composition in the kit, may be the same as those described above.
  • Composition 1 A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 1") having the following composition shown in Table 1 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
  • Table 1 A hair treatment composition having the following composition shown in Table 1 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
  • Composition 1 was applied on a Ig natural Japanese hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After a heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.
  • ODIS-2 Digital Perm Machine
  • the hair was smooth and detangled.
  • Composition 1 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 1. After leaving the hair without heating for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.
  • composition 2 A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 2") having the following composition shown in Table 2 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
  • Table 2 A hair treatment composition having the following composition shown in Table 2 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .
  • Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a Ig natural Japanese hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After a heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.
  • ODIS-2 Digital Perm Machine
  • Composition 2 was applied for 15 minutes on a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 2. After leaving the hair without heating for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine qui comprend les étapes consistant à: appliquer sur les fibres de kératine, une composition contenant au moins une silicone; placer ensuite les fibres de kératine dans un espace occlusif; puis chauffer les fibres de kératine. La composition est exempte d'agent réducteur et/ou d'une ou plusieurs sources d'ions de formule:... Dans la formule, X représente un groupe sélectionné dans le groupe formé par: O-, OH, NH2, 0- OH et 0-COO-. La présente invention concerne également la composition elle-même et une trousse à utiliser pour le procédé présenté ci-avant.
PCT/JP2009/071733 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine Ceased WO2011074142A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2012528146A JP2013514272A (ja) 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 ケラチン繊維を処理する方法
EP09801567A EP2512429A1 (fr) 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine
CN2009801634622A CN102770117A (zh) 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 用于处理角蛋白纤维的方法
PCT/JP2009/071733 WO2011074142A1 (fr) 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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PCT/JP2009/071733 WO2011074142A1 (fr) 2009-12-18 2009-12-18 Procédé de traitement de fibres de kératine

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EP0342834A2 (fr) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Traitement de matériaux fibreux
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WO2009074465A2 (fr) * 2007-12-13 2009-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditionneurs capillaires contenant des composés béhényle cationiques et des silicones sélectionnées et/ou des huiles cosmétiques
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EP0342834A2 (fr) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Traitement de matériaux fibreux
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