[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2009016017A2 - Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion - Google Patents

Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2009016017A2
WO2009016017A2 PCT/EP2008/059017 EP2008059017W WO2009016017A2 WO 2009016017 A2 WO2009016017 A2 WO 2009016017A2 EP 2008059017 W EP2008059017 W EP 2008059017W WO 2009016017 A2 WO2009016017 A2 WO 2009016017A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
composition according
weight
preferred
silicone
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2008/059017
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2009016017A3 (fr
Inventor
Annika Bähren
Christian Frisoli
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority to EP08774980A priority Critical patent/EP2170265A2/fr
Publication of WO2009016017A2 publication Critical patent/WO2009016017A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2009016017A3 publication Critical patent/WO2009016017A3/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for tanning of skin, in particular human skin, and for use on keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and their use for self-tanning with or without the support of UV radiation and / or known chemical agents and for use in the Hair.
  • a problem of self-tanning compositions is their stability. Emulsions containing self-tanning actives, especially dihydroxyacetone, are more prone to phase separation, especially at elevated temperatures. In addition, color changes occur, and by reaction with the fragrances, it may also lead to a fragrance shift not desired by the consumer.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide stable self-tanning emulsions which show no phase separation even at relatively high temperatures (storage of the application bottles in direct sunlight) and whose color and odor do not change negatively.
  • the present invention is in a first embodiment, a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a) 0.1 to 20 wt .-% of at least one tanning active ingredient from the group dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose and b) at least one polymeric thickener in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible polymer latex containing an oil phase, a water phase, at least one oil-in-water Emulga gate and at least one branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte, which is a copolymer which at least one Monomer having a strong acid function and at least one further monomer which is neutral or contains a weak acid function, c) at least one cyclic silicone of the formula I.
  • R1 and R2 are independently selected in the group consisting of phenyl, benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) Ph, the C-
  • the compositions of the invention may contain dihydroxyacetone.
  • Dihydroxyacetone abbreviation: DHA, 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-one, ketotriose, INCI reference: dihydroxyacetone, EINECS 2024945
  • DHA 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-one
  • ketotriose INCI reference: dihydroxyacetone
  • EINECS 2024945 can be described by the formula HO-CH 2 -C (O) -CH 2 -OH.
  • the pigmentation mechanism is based on the reaction of an activated carbonyl group with the amino acids of the skin or hair in the sense of a Maillard reaction.
  • Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5.0 Wt .-% and in particular 1, 75 - 3 wt .-% dihydroxyacetone (DHA) included.
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • compositions of the invention may also contain erythrulose as a tanning active.
  • Erythrulose (1, 3,4-trihydroxybutan-2-one) is a chiral keto sugar derived from aldose erythrose.
  • erythrulose is produced from 1, 2,3,4-butanetetrol biotechnologically by the bacterium Gluconobacter oxydans and obtained biotechnologically for this purpose.
  • Erythrulose reacts with free primary or secondary amino groups in the so-called Maillard reaction. If this reaction takes place with the amino acids of keratin in the skin, this leads to the formation of brownish polymers, the melanoids. As a result, the skin appears browned. Compared to dihydroxyacetone, the Maillard reaction with erythrulose is slower. The tanning of the skin develops later, but at the same time becomes more uniform than with dihydroxyacetone, since erythrulose can be more evenly distributed in the stratum corneum.
  • Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 5.0 Wt .-% and in particular 1, 75 - 3 wt .-%, erythrulose.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.5-13.0% by weight, preferably 1.0-10.0% by weight, more preferably 1.5-5, 0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 75 - 3 wt .-%, erythrulose, and 0.5 - 13.0 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 - 10.0 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 5 - 5.0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 75 - 3 wt .-% dihydroxyacetone (DHA) included.
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the dihydroxyacetone and / or the erythrulose is / are present in encapsulated form.
  • this is more expensive than the use of the non-encapsulated tanning agents.
  • An encapsulation of the tanning active ingredients is also not necessary thanks to the emulsion system according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention may contain additional tanning actives.
  • additional tanning active ingredients are described below.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further active ingredients for skin tanning.
  • a physical and a chemical mechanism of artificial skin tanning should be distinguished with regard to the mode of action.
  • walnut shell Extracts and henna active ingredients Hydrojuglon, Juglon, Lawson
  • tannic acid and the synthetic alloxan enter into physical bonds with the skin surface, while dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose, which are mainly used, or ⁇ , ⁇ -unsaturated aldehydes as activated carbonyl compounds the amino acids of the skin react in the sense of a Maillard reaction to colored products.
  • Trans-frangan mucondialdehyde provides a color very similar to natural skin tanning, but is rarely used due to toxicological considerations.
  • compositions of the invention comprise at least one polymeric thickener in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible polymer latex containing an oil phase, a water phase, at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and at least one branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte which is a copolymer which has at least one monomer with a strong acid function and at least one other monomer which is neutral or contains a weak acid function.
  • Preferred polyelectrolytes are composed of two, three, four, five or six different monomers, of which at least one monomer has a strong acid function and at least one further monomer is neutral or has a weak acid function.
  • the polyelectrolyte monomers which contain a weak acid function are selected from the monomers containing a carboxyl group -COOH which is partially or completely neutralized.
  • the partial neutralization of the weak acid function results in the neutralized monomer unit and the unneutralized, acidic monomer unit, for example acrylic acid and sodium acrylate.
  • Both monomers are used in the context of the present application as the same. Accordingly, both monomers in the sense of the present application are considered as "weak acid monomer".
  • Such weakly acidic polyelectrolyte monomers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the weak acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer represents a carboxyl group -COOH which is partially or completely neutralized, more preferred compositions according to the invention being characterized in that the monomers of the polyelectrolyte which react with the weakly acidic -COOH- Group are functionalized, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, which are partially or completely neutralized.
  • the polyelectrolyte monomers having a strong acid group are selected from monomers which are functionalized with a sulfonic acid group -SO 3 H or a phosphonic acid group.
  • a particularly preferred strong acid polyelectrolyte monomer is 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid which is partially or completely neutralized.
  • the partial neutralization of the strong acid function results in the neutralized monomer building block and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, for example, 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid and sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonate.
  • Both monomers are considered to be the same for the purposes of the present application. Accordingly, both monomers in the context of the present application are considered as "strong acid monomer".
  • compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the strong acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from a sulfonic acid group -SO 3 H and a phosphonic acid group which are partially or completely neutralized, wherein further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomer with strong Acid function is selected from 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized.
  • all polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.
  • the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer (s) are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of the foregoing Esters having a molecular weight between 400 and 1000 g / mol, acrylamide, alkylacrylamides, preferably methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, dialkylamides, preferably dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, and also polyvinylpyrrolidone ,
  • the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl
  • copolymers mentioned are preferably present in crosslinked form, with crosslinking agents preferably used being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and hydroxyethyl acrylate in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trade names Simulgel ® NS, Simulgel ® l-NS 100, SimulgePFL and Sepiplus ® S from Seppic.
  • AMPS 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid
  • acrylamide in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available , z. B. under the trade name Simulgel ® 600 from Seppic.
  • AMPS 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid
  • acrylic acid in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available , z. B. under the trade names Simulgel ® EG and Simulgel ® EPG from Seppic.
  • AMPS 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid
  • acrylic acid or sodium acrylate acrylic acid or sodium acrylate
  • dimethylacrylamide in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available, for. B. under the trade name Simulgel ® SMS 88 from Seppic.
  • All of the abovementioned, preferably used inverse polymer latexes have in common that they contain at least one oil, preferably selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (corresponding to optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene, and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil, which is optionally cured, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and further selected from the polyethylene oxide-free oil-in-water Emulsifier class of C6-C22 fatty alcohol glucose ethers, in particular Caprinic Glucoside, Caprylic Glucoside, Capric Glucoside, Lauric Glucoside, Myristic Glucoside, Cetyl Glucoside, Stearyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Glucoside, particularly preferably Caprylic Glucoside and Capric Glucoside included
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil phase of the inverse polymer latex contains at least one oil selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene.
  • oil-in-water emulsifier contained in the inverse polymer latex is selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil, if desired hardened, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and caprylic glucosides and capric glucosides ,
  • the thickening polymer latices preferred according to the invention preferably have a polymer content of 30-90% by weight, preferably 35-75% by weight and more preferably 40-60% by weight, in each case based on the total latex.
  • the polymer content of the latex has rather only an importance for the production process of the compositions according to the invention, for. B. in terms of miscibility or metering.
  • the polymer content per se, based on the composition according to the invention is significant.
  • the thickening polymer in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, based on the total cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein polymer contents of 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 3, 1 , 4, 1, 5, 1, 6, 1, 7, 1, 8, 1, 9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 wt .-% are particularly preferred and polymer contents of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 0 and 1, 1 wt .-% may be extremely preferred.
  • Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physically possible by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains.
  • the choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to obtain desired properties of the hydrogel. gels can be targeted.
  • the necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers is mediated inter alia by the sulfonate, carboxylate, amide and / or hydroxy groups.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one cyclic silicone of the formula I.
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 4 to 10, more preferably from 5 to 7 and in particular from 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • compositions according to the invention are those which, by weight, contain from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight and in particular from 1 to 4% by weight of cyclic silicone (s) However, amounts of 0.5, 1, 0, 1, 5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 4.5 wt .-% may be preferred.
  • cyclohexasiloxane 6
  • a preferred composition according to the invention is therefore characterized by being 2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8,10,10-decamethyl-1,3,5,7,9,2,4,6,8 , 10-pentaoxa pentasiloxane
  • a further preferred composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises 2,2,4,4,6,6, 8,8,10, 10,12,12-dodecamethyl-1, 3,5,7,9,11, 2 , 4,6,8,10,12-hexaoxahexasiloxane.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one carbonic acid diester of the formula (II) O
  • 2 o-alkyl radicals preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 (CH 2 ) n CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH ( CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
  • n is a number from 1 to 18, preferably from 2 to 15, more preferably from 4 to 10 and especially for 6 stands.
  • Particularly preferred representatives of the formula (II) are "symmetrical", ie the radicals R 1 and R 2 are identical Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one carbonic acid diester of the formula (II) in which the radicals R 1 and R 2 are identical Particularly preferred representatives of formula (II) are
  • Ditetradecyl carbonate (dimyristyl carbonate), H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 13 -OC (O) -O- (CH 2 ) 13 -CH 3
  • compositions are characterized by containing dicaprylyl carbonate (di-n-octyl carbonate).
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain di- (2-ethylhexyl) carbonate.
  • those carbonic diesters of the formula (II) may also be preferred in which the radicals R 1 and R 2 are linked to one another via a chemical bond, in particular a C-C single bond.
  • These compounds are also referred to as cyclic carbonic diesters.
  • Preferred examples are ethylene carbonate (1,3-dioxolan-2-one), propylene carbonate (see formula (II-Cyc-1)) and butylene carbonate (see formula (II-Cyc-2)): 2C ⁇ 3 (II-Cyc-2)
  • compositions according to the invention which contain, based on their weight, 0.5-13% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight and in particular 2-8% by weight, of carbonic diester of the formula (II) are preferred here, wherein a total content of carbonic acid diesters of 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.0 and 7.5 wt % is particularly preferred and a total content of 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0 and 5.5 wt .-% may be extremely preferred.
  • compositions of the invention contain at least one silicone polymer selected from silicone gums and silicone elastomers.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone gum. It has surprisingly been found that the stability of the self-tanning compositions according to the invention can be further improved by the addition of a silicone rubber.
  • a particularly preferred silicone rubber according to the invention is selected from silicone polymers with the INCI name dimethiconol. These dimethiconols are preferably used in a low-concentration solution in cyclomethicones or dimethicones having a kinematic viscosity of from 0.65 cSt to not more than 10 cSt (25 ° C.). Especially preferred dimethiconols are available from Dow Corning under the trade names Dow Corning 1401, Dow Corning 1403 and Dow Corning 1501; these products contain from 10 to 13% by weight of dimethiconol in cyclomethicones or dimethicones.
  • compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone gum in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.04-0.2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-0.15 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, wherein also a content of 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.1 1, 0.12, 0.13 and 0.14 wt .-% may be preferred.
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone elastomer. Surprisingly, it has been found that the stability of the self-tanner compositions according to the invention can be further improved by the addition of a silicone elastomer.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one silicone elastomer obtainable by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane containing at least two C 2 -C 10 -alkenyl groups having terminal double bonds in each molecule with an organopolysiloxane containing at least two silicones contains bound hydrogen atoms in each molecule.
  • organopolysiloxanes having at least two C 2 - C 10 - alkenyl groups with terminal double bond in the molecule are selected from Methylvinylsil- oxanen, methylvinylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethyl- vinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers having Dimethylvinylsil- oxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups, methylsiloxane-methylpheny
  • Crosslinking organopolysiloxanes having at least two silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-endblocked dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogen-siloxane copolymers.
  • Silicone elastomers which are particularly preferred according to the invention and are already pre-swollen as raw material in a silicone liquid which is liquid under normal conditions and constitute a silicone-based gel are commercially available, for example under the trade names SFE 168, a cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer from GE Silicones, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymers, contained in KSG-15 (Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silicone Elastomer Content 4 - 10 wt%), KSG-16 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silicone Elastomer Content 20 - 30 Wt%), KSG-17 (cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), KSG-18 (phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone /
  • Gransil ® series products from the Gransil ® series, especially Gransil SR-CYC (cyclomethicone and stearyl-vinyl / Hydromethyl- siloxane copolymer), Gransil RPS ® gel (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11) Gransil GCM-4 ® (INCI name: Polysilicone-cyclotetrasiloxane and 1: 1), Gransil ® GCM-5 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-1 1), Gransil ® RPS (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-1 1), GI-CD 10 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone copolymer (and) Dimethicone), Gransil ® IDS (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Cyclot
  • compositions of the present invention are silicone elastomers already present as a raw material in a silicone liquid at room temperature under normal conditions, mixed with a non-silicone-containing oil, fat or wax, and a silicone / non-silicone based Pose gel.
  • Such silicone elastomer compositions are also commercially available, for example under the trade name Gransil ® MLB (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and Beeswax), Gransil ® PS (INCI name: cyclotetrasiloxane and polysilicone-1 1 and petrolatum), Gransil ® PS-5 (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-1 1 and petrolatum), Gransil ® DMG-20 P with Dimethicone (20 cst) and petrolatum (INCI designation: dimethicone and polysilicone-11 and petrolatum), Gransil ® RJO ( INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and Jojoba Oil), Gransil ® LANO (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11 and lanolin), Gransil ® OHS-5 (INCI name: Cyclopentas
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the silicone elastomer is obtainable by the crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 C 2 -C 10 alkenyl groups having terminal double bonds in each molecule with at least one alpha, omega-diene.
  • omega-dienes are selected from 1,4-pentadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1,6-heptadiene, 1,7-octadiene, 1,8-nonadiene, 1,1-dodecadiene, 1,1,3-tetradecadiene and 1, 19-eicosadiene.
  • Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone elastomer in a total amount of 0.05-3% by weight, preferably 0.1-2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2-1.0% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention extraordinarily preferably 0.3-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, wherein also a content of 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.06, 0.07 , 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.11, 0.12, 0.14 and 0.15 wt .-% may be preferred.
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone elastomer in a total amount of 0.05-3% by weight, preferably 0.1-2% by weight, more preferably 0.2-1.0% by weight. %, most preferably 0.3-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, whereby a content of 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.06, 0, 07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.11, 0.12, 0.14 and 0.15 wt .-% may be preferred, wherein the silicone elastomer is pre-swollen in a liquid at room temperature under normal conditions liquid silicone and with this represents a silicone-based gel.
  • compositions are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one silicone gum and at least one silicone elastomer.
  • compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone gum in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.04-0.2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-0 , 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, also containing a content of 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.11, 0.12 , 0.13 and 0.14 wt .-% may be preferred, and at least one silicone elastomer in a total amount of 0.05 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 1, 0 wt .-%, most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention, also containing a content of 0.02, 0.03, 0.04 , 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.11, 0.12, 0.14 and 0.15
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the suitable carrier according to the invention thus represents an aqueous phase.
  • Preferred constituents of this aqueous phase are, in addition to water, water-soluble constituents, in particular water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanols having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and water-soluble polyethylene glycols having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide. Units as detailed below.
  • Water-soluble extracts, anti-wrinkle active substances, water-soluble UV filters, water-soluble preservatives, water-soluble monohydric alkanols, in particular ethanol, and other water-soluble active ingredients are preferred constituents of the aqueous phase according to the invention. This list is by no means limiting.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 4 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 13% by weight, more preferably 6 to 12% by weight, most preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of lipophilic phase .
  • the lipophilic phase is water-insoluble.
  • the lipophilic phase preferably contains cosmetic oils, fats, waxes and optionally lipophilic active ingredients, such as for example tocopheryl acetate.
  • the oil components of the polymer latex, the cyclic silicones of the formula I, the carbonic acid diesters of the formula (II), silicone gum (s) and silicone elastomer (e) also belong to the lipophilic phase according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 65-96% by weight, preferably 70-95% by weight, particularly preferably 75-94% by weight, most preferably 80-90% by weight, of aqueous phase Also, amounts of 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88 and 90 wt% may be preferred.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants or emulsifiers.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprise at least one oil-in-water emulsifier.
  • emulsifier is the term “surfactant” to understand.
  • the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is preferably selected from nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is furthermore preferably selected from oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7, preferably having an HLB value of 8 to 18, particularly preferably having an HLB value from 10 to 15.
  • the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is furthermore preferably selected from nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7, preferably having an HLB value of 8 to 18, particularly preferably having an HLB value. 10-15.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group preferably a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyalkylene glycol ether group.
  • Particularly preferred polyalkylene glycol ether groups are the polyethylene glycol ether groups, which are also referred to as polyethylene oxide groups. Such compounds are preferred
  • alkoxylated triglycerides alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) W OR 3 (E4-I) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20, Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and, in particular, is 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 3 to 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12-14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R 7 CO-NR 8 -CH 2 - (CHOH) 4 -CH 2 OH (E4-) IV)
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic or erucic acid or those technical mixtures.
  • R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
  • R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, lin
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Compositions having excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated sorbitol as nonionic surfactants. Particular preference is furthermore given to C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, in particular those having degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 2.0, in particular 1.2 to 1.4, and glucose as the sugar component.
  • alkyl radical R having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier system is 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13-14.
  • oil-in-water emulsifiers preference is given to oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB Value ranges 10 - 14, 14 - 16 and optionally 15 - 17 combined.
  • the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 17-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • the compositions according to the invention may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13-14.
  • nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -alkanols having an average of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -carboxylic acids an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with an average of 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C- I2 - C 30 carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, especially those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids, silicone copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and - oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, e
  • the ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 -alkanols have the formula R 1 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 1 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle one Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, Oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
  • Adducts of 10 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide onto technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.
  • the ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acids have the formula R 1 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 1 O is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid , Arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behe
  • Adducts of 10 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particular preference is given to PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.
  • C 2 -C- ⁇ 8 -alkanols or C 2 -C 8 carboxylic acids each having 10 to 30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20.
  • Preferred ones having on average 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80. Furthermore, preference is given to using C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides.
  • C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside radical monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ®, a glucosidic bond C containing 8 -C 6 - alkyl group at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1 - 2, in particular 1, 2 - 1, 4, is located.
  • Particularly preferred C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
  • the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
  • Ethoxylated sterols in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention.
  • the degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7.
  • Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.
  • partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C 8 -C 30 fatty acid radicals are preferably esterified, if they have an HLB value of more than 7 ,
  • Particularly preferred Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol are rinmonolaurat, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetragly- cerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocapry- lat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglyce- rinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexag
  • the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is in a total amount of preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably from 0.2 to 0.3 %
  • contents of 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.11, 0.12, 0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16, 0.17, 0.18 and 0, 19 may also be preferred.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain not more than 0.3% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.2% by weight, even more preferably not more than 0.1% by weight, of oil-in-water emulsifier (s).
  • the lipophilic phase or oil phase of the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one further cosmetic oil in addition to the at least one cyclic silicone of the formula I and the at least one carbonic acid diester of the formula II.
  • Additional cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 . 22 -alkanols. Particular preference is given to benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 -alkyl esters, eg. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl ester, eg. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB, and Benzoeklatoneoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® BOD.
  • benzoic acid C 12 -C 15 -alkyl esters eg. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN
  • benzoic acid isostearyl ester eg. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB
  • additional cosmetic oils are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction.
  • Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16, Guerbitol ® T 16), octyl dodecanol (Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ® 18, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24 , Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24.
  • Further preferred additional cosmetic oil components are mixtures fetch from Guerbetalko- and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (hexyl
  • additional cosmetic oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 - 3 o fatty acids.
  • Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like.
  • natural oils for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like.
  • synthetic triglyceride oils in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z.
  • Myritol ® 318 Myritol ® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin
  • Estol ® GTEH 3609 Uniqema
  • Myritol ® GTEH Cognis
  • particularly preferred additional cosmetic oils are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols, especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n butyl / Dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl
  • additional cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric Cs- 22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and Stearylalko- hol, z.
  • PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
  • Further additional cosmetic oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated.
  • These include Hexyldecylstea- rat (Eutanol ® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexylpalmitat (Cegesoft ® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868).
  • ком ⁇ онент isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl
  • Further additional cosmetic oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C 3 . 22 -alkanols such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® E).
  • PPG-14 butyl ether Ucon Fluid ® AP
  • PPG-9-butyl ether Breox B25 ®
  • PPG-10 butanediol Macol ® 57
  • PPG-15 stearyl ether Arlamol ® E
  • esters based on linear Ci 4 / i 5 alkanols, eg. B.
  • Ci 2 / i 3 alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ® by Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, to obtain, especially the commercial products Cosmacol ® ESI, Cosmacol® ® EMI and Cosmacol® ® EIT.
  • liquid paraffin oils e.g. B. the commercial products of Permethyl ® - series, especially isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane, and synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecenes and alicyclic hydrocarbons, eg. B. 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • isoparaffin oils e.g. B. the commercial products of Permethyl ® - series, especially isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane
  • synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecenes and alicyclic hydrocarbons, eg. B. 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol
  • additional cosmetic oils that can be preferred according to the invention are selected from di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), di-n-n Hexyl n-octyl ether and n-octyl n-decyl ether. It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned additional cosmetic oils.
  • compositions according to the invention contain the abovementioned additional cosmetic oils in such a total amount that the weight ratio of the total amount of cyclic silicone (s) of the formula I and carbonic diester of the formula II to the total amount of additional cosmetic oils 1 - 10 (different therefrom) preferably 1.5-5, more preferably 2-4 and exceptionally preferably 2.5-3.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B 1 (thiamine) vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • panthenol triacetin the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the named compounds of vitamin B 5 - Type are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B 6 component in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Vitamin B 7 also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin”.
  • Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • Folic acid vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c ).
  • N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu.
  • Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate.
  • Folate is the generic term for all acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid.
  • Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H 2 folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H 4 folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH 3 -H 4 folate, MeTHF).
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
  • Orotic acid (vitamin B 13 , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid).
  • Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B 1 , B 3 , B 6 , B 7 , B 9 B 13 and their esters and from pantolactone.
  • Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside.
  • the combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • Higher levels of group C vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors may be skin-lightening and would be at odds with the purpose of the compositions of this invention.
  • the small amounts can already give the compositions according to the invention a good anti-wrinkle effect.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.
  • Such polyols can promote a particularly even dyeing result.
  • water solubility is understood to mean a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say that amounts of at least 5 g of the polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups or of the polyethylene glycol with 3 - 20 ethylene oxide units in 95 g of water at 20 0 C are soluble.
  • These components are preferably selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentyleneglycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above
  • Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred.
  • Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred preparations according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2- Methyl 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 2 Hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, ethoxydiglycol, diethylene glycol
  • Particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyvalent C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units in total amounts of 3 to 25% by weight. %, preferably 5 - 18 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 - 15 wt .-%, most preferably 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 or 17 wt .-% , in each case based on the total composition.
  • the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C 2 -C 9 -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units may be present in total in amounts of 0 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 1 - 5 wt .-%, most preferably 2, 3 or 4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, is included.
  • compositions of the invention at least one water-soluble polyhydroxy compound having 4 to 20 carbon atoms, which is solid under normal conditions, is included.
  • polyhydroxy compounds can promote a particularly even dyeing result.
  • Preferred water-soluble polyhydroxy compounds having 4 to 20 carbon atoms which are solid under normal conditions are selected from cis-inositol, epi-inositol, allo-inositol, myo-inositol, neo-inositol, muco-inositol, chiro-inositol, scyllo-inositol , Erythritol, threitol, arabinitol, ribitol, xylitol, allitol, altitol, galactitol, iditol, isomalt, lactitol, mannitol and maltitol, both in the D-form and the L-form, and as the racemate.
  • inositols mannitol, isomalt, maltitol, xylitol, lactitol and / or ribitol.
  • Extremely fond of zugt are the inositols, in particular chiro-inositol. chiro-inositol forms enantiomers, resulting in a total of 9 stereoisomers of inositol, all of which occur in nature.
  • Particularly preferred preparations according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydroxy compound having 4 to 20 carbon atoms, which is solid under normal conditions, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt% , Particularly preferably 1 - 3 wt .-%, most preferably 2 - 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition is included.
  • compositions according to the invention are outstandingly suitable as a vehicle or cream base for self-tanning masking and make-up compositions which are characterized by a content of particulate adsorbents and / or pigments.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is therefore characterized in that in the compositions according to the invention at least one particulate active ingredient selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having volume-average particle sizes of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5 - 30 microns and exceptionally preferably 9 - 25 microns, is included.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the particulate agent is selected from following inorganic adsorbents: fumed silicas, particularly Aerosil ® grades, precipitated silicas, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc and boron nitride, and mixtures of the substances mentioned.
  • fumed silicas particularly Aerosil ® grades
  • precipitated silicas silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc and boron nitride, and mixtures of the substances mentioned.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the particulate active ingredient is selected from the following organic adsorbents: starches and starch derivatives which may be chemically and / or physically modified, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, in particular sodium C 8 -i 6 -silkalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulphonate, Polymer powders of polyolefins, in particular polyethylene powders and polypropylene powders, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or Silicones, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • organic adsorbents starches and starch derivatives which may be chemically and / or physically modified, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, in particular sodium C 8 -i 6 -s
  • Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be modified chemically and / or physically, in particular modified starch derivatives of the type of quizoctenylsuccinatester, in particular the Aluminium Handbook- octenylsuccinatester, for example, obtainable under the name Dry Flo ® by National Starch, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin , in particular sodium C 8 -i 6 -isoalkylsuccinyl-lactoglobulinsulphonate, e.g. B.
  • polymer powders of polyolefins in particular polyethylene powders and polypropylene powders, poly- carbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones, wherein the polymer powders can be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention , as well as mixtures of the substances mentioned.
  • Particularly preferred polymer powders based on a polymethacrylate copolymer according to the invention are, for example, B.
  • particularly preferred polymer powders are selected from cross-linked polymethacrylates (in particular the commercial products Micro Pearl ® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ® M 305 and Micro Pearl ® M 310 from SEPPIC and Covabead from Cognis, in particular Covabead LH 85 ), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymer (z. B. Plastic Powder FP of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powders (z. B. ACCUREL EP ® 400 from AKZO) or silicone polymer (eg. B. silicone Powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).
  • cross-linked polymethacrylates in particular the commercial products Micro Pearl ® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL
  • cross-linked polymethyl Mocro Pearl ® M 305 and Micro Pearl ® M 310 from SEPPIC and Covabead from Cognis, in particular Covabead L
  • Particularly preferred particulate active compounds are selected from crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates.
  • Particularly preferred crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates have a volume-average particle size of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, more preferably 5-30 .mu.m, and most preferably 9-25 .mu.m. Exceptionally preferred is the commercial product Covabead LH 85 from Cognis.
  • Further preferred particulate active ingredients are selected from crosslinked polymethylmethacrylates having volume-average particle sizes of 0.5-50 .mu.m comprising hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities.
  • a correspondingly particularly preferred commercial product is Micro Pearl ® M 310 from SEPPIC.
  • compositions according to the invention containing at least one particulate active ingredient selected from crosslinked polymethacrylates and crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates have particularly outstanding sensory and storage stability properties.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is therefore characterized in that the particulate active ingredient is selected from crosslinked polymethacrylates and crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the particulate active substance has cavities.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the particulate active ingredient has an average specific surface area in the range of 50-250 m 2 / g, preferably 70-200 m 2 / g and particularly preferably 80-100 m 2 / g.
  • the specific surface area is determined according to DIN ISO 9277: 2003-05 (BET method), also simplified according to DIN 66132: 1975-07.
  • the sensory properties of the compositions according to the invention could be further improved by the addition of at least one particulate active ingredient selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having volume-average particle sizes of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m , more preferably 5 to 30 microns, and most preferably 9 to 25 microns containing more than 50 wt .-% spherical particles.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the particulate active ingredient contains more than 50 wt .-% spherical particles.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one particulate active ingredient selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having volume-average particle sizes of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and exceptionally preferably 9-25 ⁇ m, in a total amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-15% by weight, more preferably 1-10% by weight and most preferably 3-5% by weight %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one particulate active ingredient selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having volume-average particle sizes of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, particularly preferably 5-30 .mu.m and exceptionally preferably 9-25 ⁇ m, in a total amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-15% by weight, more preferably 1-10% by weight and most preferably 3-5% by weight %
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.
  • the UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. heat, again.
  • the UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
  • the organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5 Triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonklareestern and -carbonklareamiden, Ketotri- cyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonklaestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components.
  • the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-meth- oxyphenyl) propan-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2 octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-e
  • Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such.
  • solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ® 1789) in various UV-B - Make filters.
  • compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and SS ⁇ -trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and SS ⁇ -trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
  • the inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
  • the particles should have a volume-average size of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • hydrophobic coating agents come especially silicones and especially Trialkoxyoctylsilane or Simethicone in question.
  • Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight .-% and most preferably 3.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Cosmetic compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight .-% and most preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the at least one polyelectrolyte from the polymer latex, at least one further hydrogel former.
  • Preferred additional anionic homopolymer hydrogel formers are selected from uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ®. Particularly preferred crosslinked anionic copolymers are those with the INCI name Carbomer. Another particularly preferred additional anionic copolymer contains 80-98% of unsaturated C 3 as a monomer.
  • Preferred additional nonionic polymeric hydrogel formers are, for example, polyvinyl alcohols which may be partially saponified, e.g. B. the commercial products Mowiol ® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF) are sold.
  • Natural hydrogel-forming agents which are preferred according to the invention are in particular selected from, if desired, physically (thermally) and / or chemically modified cellulose derivatives, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose furthermore in particular starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for. B.
  • hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose furthermore in particular starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for.
  • compositions may further contain a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof.
  • a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total composition, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain plant extracts.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in its production.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • compositions according to the invention can be formulated in various forms, preferably as an emulsion gel or as a cream, but also as a lotion, in stick form, as a liquid or gel roll on application, as a soaked flexible substrate (Päd, Wipe, cloth) and also as a spray.
  • the compositions of the invention are packaged in a pressure vessel, from which they can be sprayed by means of a propellant. Further preferred compositions according to the invention can be sprayed as a propellant-free pump spray.
  • the agents according to the invention are present in low-viscosity form.
  • Low viscosity according to the invention preferably means a viscosity of 500-8000 mPas (20 0 C), preferably 1000-7000 mPas, more preferably 1500-6000 mPas, exceptionally preferably 2000-5000 mPas, each measured with a Brookfield Viscometer, models LV , Spindle TA, 6 revolutions per minute, at 20 0 C sample temperature. Viscosities of 600, 700, 800, 900, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1600, 1700, 1800 or 1900 mPas may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • the application can then preferably be done with spray devices.
  • These spraying devices contain in a container a filling of the skin treatment agent according to the invention.
  • the filling may be under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas cans, compressed gas packages, aerosol dispensers), or it may be a mechanically operated pump sprayer.
  • the containers have a removal device, preferably in the form of valves, which allow the removal of the contents.
  • a container for the sprayers are mainly cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, volume preferably ⁇ 1000 ml), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (volume preferably ⁇ 220 ml) or splintering glass or plastic (volume preferably ⁇ 150 ml ) in question.
  • Creamy, gelatinous, pasty and low viscosity agents may e.g. be packaged in pump or squeeze dispensers, especially in multi-chamber pump or multi-chamber squeeze dispensers.
  • the application can preferably also be carried out with a roller applicator, as known, for example, from the field of deodorant rollers.
  • rollers have a ball mounted in a ball bed, which can be moved by movement over a surface. The ball absorbs some of the agent to be distributed and conveys this to the surface to be treated.
  • the application can preferably also be carried out with substrates which are acted upon by a composition according to the invention.
  • substrates which are acted upon by a composition according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention are used.
  • Particularly preferred are wet wipes, ie prefabricated for the user, preferably individually packaged, wet wipes, as they are for. B.
  • wet wipes from the field of glass cleaning (eyeglass cleaning cloths) or from the field of wet toilet paper are well known.
  • Such wet wipes advantageously also contain preservatives. They can be used as a self-tanner cloth, which is particularly interesting for use on the go or for an application in which the fingers themselves can remain untreated.
  • Preferred substrate materials are selected from, preferably porous, sheet-like towels. They can be made of a fibrous or cellular flexible material which has sufficient mechanical stability and softness for application to the skin. These wipes include cloths of woven and non-woven synthetic and natural fibers, felt, paper or foam, such as hydrophilic polyurethane foam.
  • Nonwovens are generally defined as adhesively bonded fibrous products having a mat or layered fibrous structure, or those comprising fibrous mats in which the fibers are randomly or randomly distributed.
  • the fibers may be natural such as wool, silk, jute, hemp, viscose, cotton, cellulose, lyocell, flax, sisal or ramie; or synthetic, such as rayon, cellulose esters, polyvinyl derivatives, polyolefins, in particular polypropylene and / or polyethylene, polyamides, polyesters, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), aramid, nylon, polyvinyl derivatives, polyurethanes, polylactide, polyhydroxyalkanoate as well as mineral fibers such as glass fibers or carbon fibers.
  • natural such as wool, silk, jute, hemp, viscose, cotton, cellulose, lyocell, flax, sisal or ramie
  • synthetic such as rayon, cellulose esters, polyvinyl derivatives, polyolefins, in particular polypropylene and / or polyethylene, polyamides, polyesters, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), aramid, nylon, polyvin
  • the present invention is not limited to the materials mentioned, but it can be used a variety of other fibers for web formation. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if the fibers used are not water-soluble. In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the nonwoven, the fibers consist of a mixture of 70% viscose and 30% PET. Also particularly advantageous are fibers made of high-strength polymers such as polyamide, polyester and / or navalgerecktem polyethylene. In general, any fiber diameter or titer is suitable for the present invention. Preferred fiber titers are in the range of 0.5-3.5 dtex, preferably 0.8-2.5 dtex, more preferably 1-2 dtex, most preferably 1.3-1.8 dtex.
  • nonwovens and pads have a thickness of 25 .mu.m to 10 mm, preferably 250 .mu.m to 6 mm, more preferably 1 mm to 4 mm, exceptionally preferably 1, 5 mm to 3 mm.
  • nonwoven fabrics used herein tend to have excellent strength in all directions due to the random or random arrangement of fibers in the nonwoven material lend, not to rupture or disintegration.
  • nonwoven fabrics suitable as substrates in the present invention are known, for example, from WO 98/18441.
  • Preferred flat, optionally porous, cloths consist of one or different fiber materials, in particular of cotton, refined cotton, polyamide, polyester or mixtures thereof.
  • the substrates in fabric form preferably have an area of from 10 to 5000 cm 2 , preferably from 50 to 2000 cm 2 , in particular from 100 to 1500 cm 2 and particularly preferably from 200 to 1000 cm 2 .
  • the grammage (or the basis weight or basis weight) of the material is usually between 20 and 1000 g / m 2 , preferably from 30 to 500 g / m 2 and in particular from 50 to 150 g / m 2 . It has been found to be advantageous for the cloth, if this has a basis weight (dry) of 35 to 120 g / m 2 , preferably from 40 to 60 g / m 2 , (measured at 20 0 C ⁇ 2 0 C and a Humidity of room air of 65% ⁇ 5% for 24 hours).
  • Skin-treatment substrates which are preferred according to the invention can be obtained by impregnation or impregnation or spraying or gravure printing of the compositions according to the invention onto a substrate.
  • dry wipes which consist of nonwoven, in particular water-jet-bonded and / or water-jet-embossed nonwoven.
  • nonwovens may have macro embossings of any desired pattern.
  • the nonwoven may also be colored in order to emphasize and / or increase the optical attractiveness of the nonwoven.
  • the fibers may additionally contain UV stabilizers and / or preservatives.
  • the fibers used to form the wipe preferably have a water uptake rate of more than 60 mm / [10 min] (measured by EDANA Test 10.1-72), in particular more than 80 mm / [10 min].
  • the fibers used to form the wipe preferably have a water absorption capacity of more than 5 g / g (measured by the EDANA test 10.1-72), in particular more than 8 g / g.
  • Preferred wipes in the sense of the present invention have a breaking strength of (numbers in N / 50 mm):
  • Further objects of the present invention are a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic tanning of human skin without the action of UV radiation, in which a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and a non-therapeutic method for accelerating and / or intensifying the UV-induced Tanning of human skin, wherein a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and a non-therapeutic method for improving the dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose-induced tanning of human skin, in which a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin.
  • Example No. 1 The following self-tanning emulsions were prepared (all data in% by weight): Example No. 1
  • Example No. 4 was filled in a roller applicator and rolled up with the help of this applicator on the skin areas to be tanned.
  • Example No. 4 100 g of Example No. 4 were uniformly applied to a nonwoven having a dry weight of 300 g.
  • the so impregnated cloth was cut into suitable non-woven wipes.
  • the composition was applied to the skin areas to be tanned.
  • B. Abrasivparti- angles which are suitable for cosmetic skin treatment.
  • compositions according to the invention for example by washing
  • takes place in the usual hygiene routine for example 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 hours after application.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques qui confèrent à la peau ainsi traitée un hâle 'naturel' et durable, et ne présentent par ailleurs de séparation de phases, même à des températures élevées (stockage des flacons d'application à la lumière directe du soleil) et dont la couleur et l'odeur ne se déprécient pas. Lesdites compositions contiennent entre 0,1 et 20% en poids d'au moins un principe actif à effet bronzant, issu du groupe comprenant dihydroxyacétaone et/ou érythrulose et au moins un épaississant polymère sous forme de latex polymère inverse auto-inversible, au moins une silicone cyclique, au moins un diester d'acide carbonique, ainsi qu'au moins un polymère silicone sélectionné dans le groupe comprenant les caoutchoucs silicones et les élastomères silicones, dans un excipient cosmétique approprié.
PCT/EP2008/059017 2007-07-31 2008-07-10 Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion Ceased WO2009016017A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08774980A EP2170265A2 (fr) 2007-07-31 2008-07-10 Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102007036396 2007-07-31
DE102007036396.8 2007-07-31
DE102008032207.5 2008-07-09
DE102008032207A DE102008032207A1 (de) 2007-07-31 2008-07-09 Stabile Selbstbräunungszusammensetzungen in Emulsionsform

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009016017A2 true WO2009016017A2 (fr) 2009-02-05
WO2009016017A3 WO2009016017A3 (fr) 2010-02-25

Family

ID=40176098

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2008/059017 Ceased WO2009016017A2 (fr) 2007-07-31 2008-07-10 Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2170265A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102008032207A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2009016017A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009953A3 (fr) * 2008-07-21 2011-04-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit coiffant souple assurant une tenue forte

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2698267B1 (fr) * 1992-11-24 1995-02-10 Oreal Compositions à base de dihydroxyacétone et leur utilisation cosmétique.
US6063397A (en) 1996-10-25 2000-05-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Disposable cleansing products for hair and skin
FR2840806B1 (fr) * 2002-06-13 2005-02-11 Oreal Compositions autobronzantes colorees comportant au moins un colorant rouge ou orange choisi parmi les fluoranes ou leurs sels de metal alcalin
EP1481664B1 (fr) * 2003-05-27 2010-12-22 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition cosmétique stable contenant un agent autobronzant
DE102005045141A1 (de) * 2005-09-16 2007-03-29 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Selbstbräunungsformulierungen

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
KIRK-OTHMER: "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 8, 60719, pages: 913 - 916

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010009953A3 (fr) * 2008-07-21 2011-04-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit coiffant souple assurant une tenue forte
US8329152B2 (en) 2008-07-21 2012-12-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Smooth styling agents

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102008032207A1 (de) 2009-02-05
WO2009016017A3 (fr) 2010-02-25
EP2170265A2 (fr) 2010-04-07

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1455745B1 (fr) Utilisation de dimerdiols
DE10333710A1 (de) Kosmetische, dermatologische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen auf Basis von Gase enthaltenden Lipid/Wachs-Gemischen
DE102010028313A1 (de) Kosmetische Zusammensetzung zur optischen Kaschierung von Falten
EP1456279B1 (fr) Emulsions cosmetiques et/ou pharmaceutiques
EP1684872A1 (fr) Substrat contenant des lipides
DE102004003436A1 (de) Dünnflüssige O/W-Emulsion II
EP1581170B1 (fr) Dispersions de cire
DE102016220085A1 (de) geruchsreduzierende Körperpflegemittel
EP1496853B1 (fr) Lingettes cosmetiques contenant de l'amidon
EP1561450B1 (fr) Emulsion huile-dans-eau à faible viscosité
DE10301836A1 (de) Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit Perlglanzoptik
EP2373278B1 (fr) Concentré d'émulsion fluidifiable
DE10246160A1 (de) Mit Befeuchtungsmitteln getränkte Tücher, welche Zinkoxid einer Partikelgröße von 20 bis 100 mm enthalten
EP2503982B1 (fr) Concentrés pour traiter des substrats
DE102011088928A1 (de) Reinigende Hautpflegemittel
DE102017215322A1 (de) Polyethylenimin mit geringem Molekulargewicht als Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff
DE10209111A1 (de) Tücher mit Produktreservoir
EP1515686A2 (fr) Composition cosmetique epaissie
DE102004003437B4 (de) Dünnflüssige O/W-Emulsion und diese enthaltender Sprayapplikator
EP2170265A2 (fr) Compositions autobronzantes stables sous forme d'émulsion
EP1491186B1 (fr) Article de toilette de constitution hétérogène
EP1349533B1 (fr) Preparations pour pulverisation exemptes de gaz propulseur
DE10309179A1 (de) Konservierung getränkter Tücher
DE102018203044A1 (de) Poly(Vinylamin-Vinylformamid)-copolymere als Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff
DE10351859A1 (de) Emulsionen mit zwei Verdickungsmitteln

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 08774980

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A2

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2008774980

Country of ref document: EP

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE