WO2009082793A1

WO2009082793A1 - Evanescent cream comprising plant oils and process for producing the same

Info

Publication number: WO2009082793A1
Application number: PCT/BR2007/000371
Authority: WO
Inventors: Helyde Albuquerque Marinho; Maria Rosa Lozano Borras; Paulo Roberto Castro Da Costa; Sônia Maria BRAGA DOS SANTOS; Bruno Olimpio Galaxe; Jonathas WELLINGTON ALVES DE SÁ
Original assignee: National Institute of Amazonian Research
Current assignee: National Institute of Amazonian Research
Priority date: 2007-12-28
Filing date: 2007-12-28
Publication date: 2009-07-09
Anticipated expiration: 2010-06-28
Also published as: BRPI0721323B1; BRPI0721323A2

Abstract

The present invention discloses an evanescent cream with hydrating properties comprising the active extracts of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K and/or Mauritia flexuosa and a process for production the evanescent cream.

Description

EVANESCENT CREAM COMPRISING PLANT OILS AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING THE SAME

Field of the Invention

Background of the invention

A cream is a topical preparation usually for application to the skin. They may be considered pharmaceutical products as even cosmetic creams are based on techniques developed by pharmacy and unmedicated creams are highly used in a variety of skin conditions (dermatoses). Creams are semi-solid emulsions (mixtures of oil and water). They are divided into two types: oil-in- water (O/W) creams which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are composed of small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous oily phase. Creams are topic formulations made by emulsified fat with water from 30 to 60% that can be a vehicle to some active products at skin.

Oil-in-water creams are more comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are less greasy and more easily washed off using water. Water-in-oil creams are more difficult to handle but many drugs which are incorporated into creams are hydrophobic and will be released more readily from a water-in-oil cream than an oil-in-water cream. Water-in-oil creams are also more moisturizing as they provide an oily barrier which reduces water loss from the stratum corneum, the outmost layer of the skin.

An emulsion is a pharmaceutical formulation with milky /fatty consistency which has a disperse phase (discontinous phase), a dispersant phase (continuos phase) and a third component known as emulsifier agent. The emulsions must have the pH between 5,5 and 6,5, excluding the cationic emulsions that must have a pH between 3,5 to 4,5 (ANTUNES 2002).Therefore, the aqueous phase solubilize components of the solutions, the oil phase can be any compound lipossoluble and the emulsifier agent can keep the stability of the emulsion (PRISTA, 1999). The creams can be used as a provision barrier to protect the skin, even a physical barrier as sunscreens, to aid the retention of moisture (especially water-in-oil creams, cleansing, emollient effects and as a vehicle for drug substances such as local anesthetics, anti-inflammatory (NSAID or corticosteroids), hormones, antibiotics, antifungal, among others. Evanescent Creams are a special class of creams that could deeply adjust skin oily mechanism, repairing epidermis and the derma network tissue. The ingredients of the cream are easily absorbed and skin looks more vivid with brightness and long-lasting moisturizing effect.

Bactris gasipaes is a species of palm native to the tropical forests of the South and Central America. It is a palm which fruit is a drupe with an edible pulp surrounding the single seed, 4-6 cm long and 3-5 cm broad. The rind (epicarp) of this wild palm can be red, yellow, or orange when the fruit is ripe depending on the variety of the palm. B. gasipaes is well known by the native populations where it usually grows up, and they having been used for centuries as food. They frequently eat the fruit stewed in salted water. However, it may be peeled and dressed with salt and honey, used to make compotes and jellies, or also used to make flour and edible oil. Because of the huge importance of B. gasipaes for the native populations, there are numerous common names for this plant in several languages and many countries such as peach-palm or pewa, pejibaye, tembe, pupunheira, and pupunha.

The Moriche Palm, Mauritia flexuosa, also known as the lte Palm, buriti, or aguaje, is a palm tree. It grows in and near swamps and other wet areas in tropical South America.

The Moriche Palm fruit is edible with a high vitamin C content and used to make juice, jam, ice cream, and a fermented "wine". An oil high in vitamin A is extracted from the pulp and is frequently used to treat burns because of its soothing qualities. This tree is important to several bird species, such as the Red-bellied Macaw, Sulphury Flycatcher and Moriche Oriole, which use it for nesting and food.

The patent literature contains some documents disclosing cosmetic compositions and palm oils. The document US 6,911 ,211 discloses a pharmaceutical and cosmetic carrier comprising solidifying agent and hydrophobic solvent for treatment of disease or disorders of the skin. The composition or carrier are prepared by mixing 1-25% of a solidifying agent and 75-99% of a hydrophobic solvent, by weight, wherein at least one of them has a therapeutic or cosmetic benefits. The hydrophobic carrier is selected from the group comprising plant derived oils, including palm oils.

Another document (US 6,372,235) discloses a composition comprising an oil and a specific gelling compound, comprising at least five percent wax and oil. At least one of the oils present at this invention is chosen from hydrocarbon- based plant oils, including palm oils. The document US 6,344,205 discloses a composition comprising an oily phase and a particulate phase comprising at least one pulverulent compound. The oily phase comprise, among other, palm oils.

None of the documents cited here suggests the use of specific palm oils species to be used as cosmetic compositions, especially evanescent creams.

The patent literature also contains some documents disclosing Mauhtia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes. Document WO 06/120646 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising terpenone for alleviating the signs of skin ageing. Although it discloses the use of Mauritia flexuosa in one composition it does not associate its use to the antioxidant activity. The present invention differs from the prior art due to the fact that it is a cleansing composition, and not an anti- ageing cream, and the extract of Mauritia flexuosa is the main active of the composition, in an amount higher than previously described.

Document WO 99/64029 discloses plant extracts from Bactris balanoidea useful in pharmaceutical compositions to treat several diseases such as diabetes, acquired immunodeficiency syndrome, influenza, common cold symptoms, pulmonary emphysema, bronchitis, poliomyelitis, macular degeneration, cancer, gingivitis, dermatitis, hair loss, hepatitis, genital herpes, papilloma, and asthma. The present invention differs from the prior art in that it does not disclose a cosmetic composition comprising oils extracted from Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

The document Pl 0301420-7 discloses a formulation for murmuru soaps containing fat from palm oils plant extracts of Astrocaryum faranae, Astrocaryum ulei Burret and Astrocaryum murmuru species.

Document WO 05/118759 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising palm extracts for the skin, wherein the palm extracts are olein or palm oil. The present invention differs from the prior art in that it does not disclose a cosmetic composition comprising oils extracted from Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

Therefore, it can be seen that the prior art does not teach nor suggests the use of cosmetic compositions, specially evanescent creams, comprising extracts from Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

Objects of the Invention

It is an objective of the invention a cream composition comprising: a) from 80% w/w to 97% w/w of emulsifiers; b) from 1% w/w to 3% w/w of a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; and c) from 2% w/w to 17% w/w of additional ingredients;

It is a further objective of the invention a process for producing a cream composition comprising the steps of: a) preparing an oil phase comprising a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; b) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the surfactants; c) addition of the oil phase of a) in the aqueous phase of b) at a temperature higher than about 40⁰C; d) addition of the emulsion of c) into an adequate evanescent cream vehicle.

In a preferred embodiment, the emulsion formed in step c) is formed by a Low Energy Emulsion process.

Detailed Description of the invention

The following examples are illustrative of the present invention and are by no means intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

Plant Oils

The plant oils useful in the present invention are chosen from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia.

The plant oils are preferably extracted from the fruits, wherein the extraction process is according to the method for continuous extractions at controlled temperature and the extraction must be performed in the absence of light. The resulting oils were added in order to obtain only carotenoids, according to methods of the state of the art.

In a preferred embodiment, the plants are Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and/or Mauritia flexuosa, and are present in an amount of from 1% w/w to 3% w/w. One differential is the use of plant products, especially from the Amazon region, which imparts a greater absorption and penetration, leaving the skin smooth and with elasticity, protecting from free radicals.

Base Cream The cream base may be comprised of an emulsifier and/or an emollient and they may be present in an amount of from 80% w/w to 97% w/w. In a preferred embodiment, a mixture of an emulsifier and an emollient compose the base cream. Namely it is preferred a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and polyssorbate-60, also known as Polawax.

Emollient As used herein, the expression "emollient" and "emollient material" refers to one or more liquids that soften or soothe the skin. An emollient material may be one or more generally hydrophobic materials (typically in liquid form) including, but not limited to, vaseline, mineral oils, animal and vegetable oils and fats, fatty acid esters derived from fatty acids or fatty alcohols, mixtures of hydrocarbon materials that resemble petrolatum in appearance and consistency.

Suitable emollients according to the description include, without limitation, isopropyl miristate, fatty alcohols, such as cetostearyl alcohol.

Surfactartt/Emulsifier

The surfactants (or emulsifier) useful in the present invention are chosen from the group comprising anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants. Examples of each class are detailed below. a) Anionic Surfactants

The anionic surfactant may comprise, wholly or predominantly, a C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate. Primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms especially 10 to 14 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, is also commercially significant as an anionic surfactant and may be used in this invention, olefin sulphonates; alkane sulphonates; dialkyl sulphosuccihates; and fatty acid ester sulphonates. One or more soaps of fatty acids may also be included. Examples are sodium soaps derived from the fatty acids from coconut oil, beef tallow, sunflower or hardened rapeseed oil. These may be formed by adding fatty acid and a base such as sodium carbonate to a mixture which is used to form the surfactant-rich base particles. b) Non-ionic Surfactants

Nonionic surfactants that may be used include the primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, especially the C₈-C_2O aliphatic alcohols ethoxylated with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, and more especially the Ci₀-Ci₅ primary and secondary aliphatic alcohols ethoxylated with an average of from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol. Non-ethoxylated nonionic surfactants include alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, PEG-ylated sorbitan esterified with fatty acids and polyhydroxyamides (glucamide). c) Amphoteric and/or Zwitterionic Surfactants

Preferred amphoteric surfactants are amine oxides. These are materials of the general formula:

R-ιR₂R₃N→O wherein Ri is typically a C₈-Ci₈ alkyl group, for example, Ci₂-Ci₄ alkyl, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are Ci-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, for example, methyl groups. The most preferred amine oxide is coco dimethylamine oxide. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, and especially amidobetaines. Preferred betaines are C₈-Ci₈ alkyl amidoalkylbetaines, for example, coco amidopropyl betaine (CAPB).

Additional Ingredients

Several other ingredients commonly used in the production of cleansing compositions can also be used in the present invention. These ingredients include, without limitation, humectants and/or moisturizers such as glycerin, opacifying agents such as glycol distearate, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, volatile silicones, preservatives such as methylparaben and propylparaben, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances and colorants.

The colorants used in the cosmetic composition can be synthetic or natural, and are present in small amounts in the composition. They absorb visible light in a determined wavelength and send it in another, producing the observed coloration in the composition. Useful colorants include, without limitation, inorganic pigments, organic pigments and combinations thereof.

Production Process Cream production processes useful in the present invention are those already part of the state of the art, such as the Continental Process. Also known as "method 4:2:1 , because for each four parts of oil, two parts of water and one part of gum is used in the production of the emulsion. By this method, the Arabic gum or any other O/W emulsifier is ground with the oil in a dry mortar until an homogeneous mixture is achieved. The best ratio between the oil, water and gum is 4:2:1. Cellulose derivatives or other emulsifiers can replace the gum.

This method has two variants: a) Continental Direct: in this variant, the fatty material of the discontinuous phase (oil phase) is melted at 70°-90°C and then mixed with the continuous phase (aqueous phase). b) Continental Indirect: There is an inversion of phases, when one of the phases is higher than 74% (74% of aqueous phase and 26% of oil phase, or vice-versa)

The use of the LEE method presents several advantages such as reduced use of thermal energy, substances and storage, producing a product with high viscosity, stability, consistency and appearance, when compared to classical production methods. It increases the yield up to 80% when compared with the continental process. Another advantage is the reduced emulsification cooling time and processing when compared to the state of the art methods. The LEE process comprises three different phases: oily, aqueous alpha

(α) phase and aqueous beta (β) phase. The oil phase comprises the carotenoids and other fatty substances while the remaining ingredients are distributed in the fases alpha and beta.

This process guarantees the integrity of the dematological properties of the components for both solid and liquid soap compositions.

Example 1

The present invention describes a method to produce an evanescent cream comprising β-carotene, present in the oil of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and Mauhtia flexuosa. The process comprise the steps of mixing phases A and B, followed by homogenization, and add this mixture to phase C at 50⁰C. After total homogenization, the vegetal oils are added and the formulation stored. The following table illustrates the components of phases A, B and C.

Table 1. Formula for evanescent cream production

Phase Ingredients % w/w

Polawax To 100%

A Propylparaben 0.1

Methylparaben 0.2 lsopropyl Miristrate 1.5

B

Volatile silicone 1.0

Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. Oil 2.0

C

Mauritia flexuosa Oil 2.0

Example 2

In the microbiological controls of the present composition, no contamination was observed. The analytical tests performed did not show any instability, such as phase separation. These results can be better seen in the tables below.

Table 2. Sensorial Properties of the Evanescent cream.

N = No alterations

S = Alterations in the parameter observed Table 3. Physico-chemical properties of the evanescent cream

Specifications Tests Results

T ₀ T 30

PH 5,55 5,55

Density 0,91 g/ml 0,92 g/ml

Phase Separation NHF NHF

Product Stability Stable Stable

Temperature (25⁰C) NHA NHA

Storage RPA RPA

T = Time in days

RPA = 6Og Plastic container at room temperature

NHF = No phase separation

NHA = No alteration

Claims

ClaimsEVANESCENT CREAM COMPRISING PLANT EXTRACTS AND PROCESS FORPRODUCING THE SAME

1. Evanescent cream comprising plant extracts characterized by the fact that it comprises: a) from 80% w/w to 97% w/w of a cream base; b) from 1% w/w to 3% w/w of a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; and c) from 2% w/w to 17% w/w of additional ingredients;

2. Evanescent cream, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the cream base comprises emollients and/or emulsifiers.

3. Evanescent cream, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the emollients are chosen from the group comprising vaseline, mineral oils, animal and vegetable oils and fats, fatty acid esters derived from fatty acids or fatty alcohols, isopropyl miristate, cetostearyl alcohol.

4. Evanescent cream, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic and mixtures thereof.

5. Evanescent cream, according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that the anionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate, primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, olefin sulphonates, alkane sulphonates, dialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid ester sulphonates, soaps of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

6. Evanescent cream, according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, polyhydroxyamides, PEG-ylated sorbitan esterified with fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

7. Evanescent cream, according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of materials of the general formula:

R₁R₂R₃^O wherein R₁ is typically a C₈-Ci₈ alkyl group, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are Ci-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups; C₈-Ci₈ alkyl amidoalkylbetaines.

8. Evanescent cream, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the cream base is a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate-60

9. Evanescent cream, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the plant oil is extracted from the fruits of the plant.

10. Evanescent cream, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the plants are Bactris gasipaes H.B.K and/or Mauritia flexuosa.

11. Evanescent cream, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that it comprises additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of humectants, moisturizers, opacifying agents, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, volatile silicones, preservatives, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances, colorants and mixture thereof.

12. Process for producing an evanescent cream composition characterized by the fact that it comprises the steps of: a) preparing an oil phase comprising a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; b) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the base cream; c) addition of the oil phase of a) in the aqueous phase of b) at a temperature higher than about 40⁰C;

13. Process, according to claim 12, characterized by the fact that the cream base comprises emollients and/or emulsifiers.

14. Process, according to claim 13, characterized by the fact that the emollients are chosen from the group comprising vaseline, mineral oils, animal and vegetable oils and fats, fatty acid esters derived from fatty acids or fatty alcohols, isopropyl miristate, cetostearyl alcohol.

15. Process, according to claim 13, characterized by the fact that the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic and mixtures thereof.

16. Process, according to claim 15, characterized by the fact that the anionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate, primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, olefin sulphonates, alkane sulphonates, dialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid ester sulphonates, soaps of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

17. Process, according to claim 15, characterized by the fact that the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, polyhydroxyamides, PEG-ylated sorbitan esterified with fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

18. Process, according to claim 15, characterized by the fact that the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group consisting of materials of the general formula:

RiR₂R₃N→O wherein Ri is typically a Cs-C-is alkyl group, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are Ci-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups; C₈-Cis alkyl amidoalkylbetaines.

19. Process, according to claim 13, characterized by the fact that the cream base is a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate-60

20 Process, according to claim 12, characterized by the fact that the plant oil is extracted from the fruits of the plant.

21. Process, according to claim 12, characterized by the fact that the plants are Bactris gasipaes H. B. K and/or Mauhtia flexuosa.

22. Process, according to claim 12, characterized by the fact that it comprises additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of humectants, moisturizers, opacifying agents, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, volatile silicones, preservatives, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances, colorants and mixture thereof.

23. Process, according to claim 12, characterized by the fact that the emulsion formed in step c) is formed by a Low Energy Emulsion process.