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WO2009064446A1 - Training method and apparatus for surfing using solitary wave channel - Google Patents

Training method and apparatus for surfing using solitary wave channel Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009064446A1
WO2009064446A1 PCT/US2008/012759 US2008012759W WO2009064446A1 WO 2009064446 A1 WO2009064446 A1 WO 2009064446A1 US 2008012759 W US2008012759 W US 2008012759W WO 2009064446 A1 WO2009064446 A1 WO 2009064446A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
wave
channel
water
wall
see
Prior art date
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Application number
PCT/US2008/012759
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French (fr)
Inventor
Thomas J. Lochtefeld
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication of WO2009064446A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009064446A1/en
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63GMERRY-GO-ROUNDS; SWINGS; ROCKING-HORSES; CHUTES; SWITCHBACKS; SIMILAR DEVICES FOR PUBLIC AMUSEMENT
    • A63G31/00Amusement arrangements
    • A63G31/007Amusement arrangements involving water
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/0093Training appliances or apparatus for special sports for surfing, i.e. without a sail; for skate or snow boarding
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/12Arrangements in swimming pools for teaching swimming or for training
    • A63B69/125Devices for generating a current of water in swimming pools

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of simulated surfing apparatuses and methods, and in particular, to a method and apparatus adapted to create a gently sloped spilling wave capable of being used by beginning surfers for training purposes.
  • Wave pools have become popular at water theme parks throughout the country. Wave pools are man-made bodies of water in which waves are created much like waves in an ocean.
  • a wave pool typically has a wave generating machine located at one end and an artificial sloped "beach" located at the other end, wherein the wave generating machine creates periodic waves that travel from one end to the other.
  • the floor of the pool near the beach is preferably sloped upward so that as the waves approach, the floor causes the waves to "break" onto the beach.
  • wave pools are designed to simulate waves created in nature, but thus far, wave pools have not been successful in creating the type of waves suitable for novice surfers who are attempting to learn.
  • the wave must be of optimum size and shape for the novice surfer to be able to ride the wave successfully. If the wave is too large, or too steep, for example, the novice surfer may find it difficult to maneuver into position and take advantage of the wave's forward momentum. On the other hand, if the wave is too small, or too shallow, the novice surfer may find it difficult to generate enough forward momentum to properly get on and ride the wave. Third, because of the difficulty of learning how to catch and ride a wave properly, the novice surfer will typically need additional time in the pool. For example, if the novice surfer desires to stand up on and ride the surf board, he or she will typically require more time to not only get into the correct position and achieve balance than it would an expert surfer, but also more practice time to do it correctly.
  • the present invention relates to a wave channel adapted to generate the kind of waves that are suitable for use by novice surfers for the purpose of training.
  • the present invention comprises a longitudinally extended channel having a body of water contained therein having a predetermined depth suitable for creating a solitary wave therein that travels from one end to another.
  • the channel preferably has a wave generator located at a first end, and a floor that slopes gradually upward from the first end to the second end, opposite the first end, and two side walls extending longitudinally from one end to the other.
  • the wave generator preferably generates waves that travel in a forward direction, from the first end to the second end, and can be virtually any type, including a paddle wave generator, or wave cannon, or other suitable wave generator,.
  • the waves that are formed are preferably maintained as gently sloped swells (as opposed to steeply sloped plunging waves) as they travel forward through the channel, wherein they are preferably eventually acted upon by the slope of the inclined floor and begin to spill over and break toward the second end.
  • a see-through wall such as made of tempered and shatter resistant glass, extending substantially longitudinally along at least one of the side walls.
  • the see-through wall is preferably extended vertically upward from the floor of the channel to well above the peak height of the waves. It is also preferably extended the full length of the channel, although not necessarily so, such that viewers can see both ' above and below water level from one end to the other.
  • a protective see-through flexible barrier extends substantially vertically and longitudinally within the body of water, between the surfable area of the channel and where the see-through wall is located, to protect the see-through wall from being damaged by errant surfers and boards.
  • the barrier is preferably made of a flexible material that reduces the chances of injuries to surfers as they travel through the channel and is preferably made of a see-through material that allows viewers and spectators to see into the channel.
  • the flexible barrier is preferably spaced a sufficient distance from the see-through wall to prevent surfers and boards from accidentally hitting the see-through wall.
  • the barrier is open along the bottom and/or sides or otherwise allows water to flow through it so that water in the channel can circulate freely between the surfable area of the channel and the space between the barrier and see-through wall.
  • This helps to ensure that water and wave energy are substantially identical on both sides of the barrier, such that as the waves travel through the channel, they will do so in substantially the same manner on both sides thereof. That is, as the waves travel through the channel, the same wave that forms on the surfable side of the channel will essentially be formed in the space between the see-through wall and barrier, i.e., the height of the wave will be substantially the same on both sides of the barrier. Accordingly, hydraulic pressure will be in equilibrium on both sides of the barrier, wherein the barrier will not have to be built to withstand the weight of the wave traveling through the surfable side of the channel, which would otherwise be necessary to keep the barrier from collapsing.
  • the walkway On the side wall opposite the see-through wall, there is preferably a horizontal walkway that extends from the first end to the second end at about the maximum height of the waves to be formed in the channel.
  • the walkway essentially extends outward from the top of the side wall opposite the see-through wall, wherein, the width of the channel is thereby expanded wider at the predetermined height. This way, as the waves are formed, they cannot travel any higher than the height of the walkway without the top of the wave spilling out and over onto the walkway.
  • the walkway therefore effectively serves as a wave diminution device that controls the height of the waves automatically, so that they are not too large or powerful and therefore too dangerous.
  • the walkway also preferably enables surfers that become stranded in the channel to easily exit, and is preferably padded to avoid injuries.
  • a wave dampening mechanism is preferably provided for reducing rip currents and other wave effects in the body of water.
  • the dampening mechanism preferably comprises a raised grated artificial floor extended along a slope that allows water and wave energy to pass through, but nevertheless, allows individuals to stand on the surface in their bare feet.
  • the raised floor is preferably extended upward above the solid inclined floor and extends up along a similar or slightly greater slope toward the second end of the channel.
  • a cavity or compartment is preferably provided underneath the raised floor just downstream beyond the solid inclined floor where a drop off is located.
  • the cavity is preferably extended below the raised floor to allow water and wave energy to pass through into the cavity below. This way, the waves that are formed as gently sloped spilling waves will eventually stop breaking, i.e., at or near the drop off location, wherein a non-breaking swell that eventually passes through the grated surface of the raised floor can be created.
  • the overflow wall preferably has an upper edge extended at about the static mean water level of the body of water, over which any residual water and wave energy can pass.
  • the overflow chamber preferably allows any excess water from the advancing wave to collect and be separated from the body of water in the channel. This water/wave energy collection area preferably minimizes reflections and rebounding effects thereby allowing the body of water in the channel to revert to a quiescent state more quickly. This way, even though the gently sloped wave will increase or maintain its height as it travels toward the shore, the wave will stop breaking and not collapse onto the shore, which enables surfers to slow down and back off and avoid crashing onto the beach.
  • a pump is provided on the overflow wall that communicates with the overflow chamber so that water can be pumped from the chamber back into the cavity and therefore the body of water.
  • This allows the amount of water stored in the overflow chamber to be reduced so that the water level in the overflow chamber will remain below that of the body of water in the channel, which helps to enable water and wave energy to flow properly into the overflow chamber and be stored and dissipated.
  • the amount of water pumped back from the overflow chamber to the cavity and channel is preferably controlled to cause a residual amount of water to travel in a reverse direction against the oncoming waves without adversely forming rip currents and other undesirable reflections and movements into the body of water.
  • the present invention can control the size and character of the oncoming waves, and allow the rider to slow down and back off as the waves approach shore, which is preferably done in a precise and controlled manner.
  • the wave dampening mechanism including the raised floor is sufficient in size, and extends both above and below the static mean water level, to allow water and wave energy to pass through as the waves travel across and advance toward the shore. Because the raised floor allows water and wave energy to pass through, the normal tendency of waves to break and collapse onto the beach, and therefore, create Whitewater and mass transport thereon, can be reduced.
  • a second wave dampening mechanism is provided at the first end of the channel where the wave generator is located for reducing any additional wave effects and reflections that might exist in the body of water. That is, as the original waves travel across the channel, some of the energy that flows against the overflow wall can be reflected back toward the first end, i.e., those that bounce off and travel backward toward the wave generator. Accordingly, a rebound effect can be created within the body of water which can cause residual wave motions to travel back towards the wave generator in the opposite direction. This can leave some residual movements and wave effects in the body of water that can be detrimental to the smooth formation of the oncoming waves.
  • the second dampening mechanism preferably comprises a second overflow wall located at the first end above the wave generator over which excess water and wave energy traveling in the reverse direction can flow. It also preferably has a second overflow chamber into which the excess water from the wave effects can collect and therefore be separated from the body of water, thereby further reducing the water movements and rebound effects in the channel.
  • the two dampening mechanisms described above help to reduce the residual movements and wave effects within the body of water at the first and second ends to enable the waves that travel across the channel to remain relatively smooth and free of Whitewater and turbulence. This enables the waves to form as gently sloped swells and remain that way as they travel across the channel until they begin to spill over and break.
  • FIGURE 1 is a side view of an embodiment of the present invention showing a channel with a body of water therein, with a horizontal floor and a front see-through side wall, with a wave generator located at the far upstream end of the channel for generating periodic waves that travel toward the opposite end;
  • FIGURE 2 is a top view of the embodiment shown in Figure 1 in the same orientation
  • FIGURE 3 is an isometric view of the wave generator end of the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ;
  • FIGURE 4 is a section view of the channel showing a wave at peak height within the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ;
  • FIGURE 5 is a section view of the channel showing the wave generator end of the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 (note that this section view is taken in the opposite direction looking upstream toward the wave generators);
  • FIGURE 6 is a section view of the channel showing the water at its static mean water level within the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ;
  • FIGURE 7 is a side view of an embodiment of the present invention showing a channel with a body of water therein, wherein the channel has a sloped floor with a wave generator located at the far upstream end and a sloped incline with a wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel;
  • FIGURE 8 is a section detail of the far downstream end of the embodiment shown in Figure 7 with a wave dampening mechanism for reducing rip currents and preventing waves from breaking and collapsing onto the shore, wherein the mechanism has a sloped solid floor with an artificial raised floor with grated surface extended above it, wherein there is a cavity section, an overflow wall and overflow chamber underneath to facilitate the clearing of water and wave energy from the channel;
  • FIGURE 9 is an isometric view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the artificial beach and grated raised floor above the cavity and overflow chamber, and the see-through wall in front;
  • FIGURE 10 is a section detail of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the artificial beach and grated raised floor thereon, along with the overflow wall, the overflow chamber, and pump for circulating water back into the channel;
  • FIGURE 11 is a top view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the overflow wall in the center, and the overflow chamber on the right, and the pump for circulating water back into the channel on the overflow wall;
  • FIGURE 12 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing a wave generator located at the far upstream end of the channel wherein this view is taken looking upstream toward the wave generators;
  • FIGURE 13 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing a second wave dampening mechanism located at the upstream wave generator end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
  • FIGURE 14 is a detail section view taken from Figure 13 showing the overflow wall of the second wave dampening mechanism located at the far upstream end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
  • FIGURE 15 is a top view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave generator end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
  • FIGURE 16 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side, and the walkway on the left hand side, with the flexible see-through barrier extended within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the body of water is at static equilibrium on both sides of the barrier;
  • FIGURE 17 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side, and the walkway on the left hand side, with the flexible see-through barrier extended within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the crest of the wave is shown passing through the channel on both sides of the barrier;
  • FIGURE 18 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side and the flexible see-through barrier extending within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the bottom of the barrier is shown terminating above the floor;
  • FIGURE 19 is a detail section view taken from Figure 18 showing the padded surface on top of the upper support member of the flexible barrier, and a spring that keeps the flexible barrier taught;
  • FIGURE 20 is a detail section view taken from Figure 18 showing how the flexible barrier is connected to the lower support member along the bottom, wherein a gap is shown to exist between the lower support member and see-through wall.
  • Figures 1 through 6 show a first embodiment of the present invention comprising a longitudinally extended channel 3 with a body of water 5 contained therein.
  • Channel 3 preferably has a floor 7, two side walls 9 extending substantially vertically upward therefrom, and two end sections 11 , including first end 15 (on the far left end as shown in Figure 1) and second end 19 (on the far right end as shown in Figure 1).
  • floor 7 is shown to be extended substantially horizontally from first end 15 to second end 19, although in the preferred embodiment shown in Figure 7, it is sloped to cause wave 13 to spill and break as will be discussed.
  • a wave generator 17 with various pumps and/or other equipment is preferably located at first end 15 and adapted to produce periodic waves 13 that travel from first end 15 to second end 19, i.e., which is the "downstream" direction.
  • Wave generator 17 can be any conventional type, including but not limited to, vacuum, pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, paddle, wave cannon, etc., to create sufficient movement within body of water 5 to create periodic waves 13 desirable for surfing.
  • wave generator 17 is a wave cannon type that is housed within hulls or openings 35 as shown in Figure 5.
  • the amount of energy required to create waves 13 will depend on the desired size and height of the waves relative to the amount of water contained within body of water 5.
  • wave generator 17 can be adapted to have 200 horsepower or more, and channel 3 can have the capacity to hold 75,000 gallons or more.
  • the wave height is preferably a function of the depth of body of water 5, i.e., the preferred ratio of wave height to water depth is preferably about 3.75/6. Accordingly, in a situation where body of water 5 is about 5 feet deep, the preferred wave height would be about 3.125 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5 within channel 3.
  • the range of wave heights is preferably about 3 to 4 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5, although virtually any size/height that achieves the desired results may be employed.
  • Body of water 5 is preferably not more than about 5 feet deep so that the risk of drowning can be reduced.
  • the overall footprint of channel 3 is 16 feet wide by 185 feet long with an area of 2,960 square feet, although virtually any dimension is possible.
  • Figure 1 shows gently sloped spilling wave 13 (as opposed to a steeply sloped plunging wave) passing through body of water 5 from first end 15 to second end 19.
  • This view also shows a see-through wall 21 preferably made of tempered laminated glass or other durable shatter resistant see-through material extending longitudinally as one of the two side walls 9, which allows viewers to see into channel 3.
  • a see-through wall 21 preferably made of tempered laminated glass or other durable shatter resistant see-through material extending longitudinally as one of the two side walls 9, which allows viewers to see into channel 3.
  • See-through wall 21 preferably has vertical stiffeners 33 and a frame 34 extending from top to bottom to provide lateral support thereto.
  • Stiffeners 33 and frame 34 are preferably made of steel or other strong and rigid material to support the weight of the water and wave traveling through channel 3.
  • stiffeners 33 are secured at the top and bottom to the ceiling and floor, respectively, so that they do not have to be cantilevered upward, and are secured properly to provide support for wall 21.
  • a walkway 23 is preferably extended from end to end, which allows surfers within channel 3 to easily exit from body of water 5.
  • walkway 23 is preferably extended substantially horizontally outward from the top of side wall 10, wherein it provides the additional advantage of expanding the width of channel 3 at a predetermined height which helps to prevent waves 13 from exceeding that height. That is, once waves 13 reach the height of walkway 23, the wave's crest will begin to spill over onto walkway 23, and therefore, waves 13 within channel 3 cannot go any higher than the height of walkway 23 without the top of the wave spilling over and onto walkway 23. In this way, walkway 23 essentially serves as a wave diminution device that automatically prevents waves 13 from rising too high.
  • walkway 23 is preferably set at or near the desired maximum height of wave 13, which, in the preferred embodiment, is about 4 feet above the static mean water level.
  • Walkway 23 is preferably padded and rounded to prevent injury in case surfers fall within channel 3, and preferably has railings along the exterior side thereof. Having walkway 23 extended outward from side wall 10 also helps users avoid the sense of being surrounded by the walls, which in turn, helps reduce any claustrophobic feelings that can otherwise occur inside channel 3.
  • Figure 4 shows a cross section of channel 3 with wave 13 at its peak height, such as extending up to about 4 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5
  • Figure 6 shows a cross section of channel 3 with body of water 5 at its static mean water level (with no wave formed therein).
  • see-through wall 21 preferably extends from floor 7 to a height that is well above the peak water level of wave 13 and preferably up to the ceiling height of channel 3, although not necessarily so.
  • Opposite side wall 10 is preferably terminated at the desired height of wave 13, which is the preferred height of walkway 23, to prevent wave 13 from going too high, as discussed.
  • Opposite side wall 10 can be made of glass to allow viewers to see into channel 3 from both sides, and constructed in a manner similar to see-through wall 21 , although in the preferred embodiment, side wall 10 is a structural wall without glass. This is because otherwise a protective barrier like the type discussed in connection with side wall 21 would be needed to protect wall 10. Support bars extending from side wall 10 can be provided intermittently to provide support for walkway 23.
  • Figure 5 shows a cross section of channel 3 at the wave generator end 15 and shows three wave cannon hulls or openings 35 in which wave generators 17 are located and through which wave motions are created within body of water 5.
  • This view also shows the configuration of entrance platform 27 with railings 29 on either side thereof.
  • Entrance opening 31 is preferably provided between railings 29 through which surfers can enter into channel 3, and therefore, into body of water 5.
  • Figure 5 also shows an opening 53 which forms an entry point for a second dampening mechanism located beneath entrance platform 27 but above wave generator 17.
  • Figures 7-20 show a preferred embodiment that is similar to the embodiment shown in Figures 1-6 except that it has a sloped floor 8 that has a substantially horizontal section 12 that gradually slopes upward to form an inclined section 14 (shown in black) that eventually forms a shore section 20.
  • the inclined section 14 is preferably adapted with a slope of between 1 :25 to 1 :50 and preferably causes the depth of body of water 5 within channel 3 to be progressively reduced from first end 15 to second end 19, such that as wave 13 travels across, it will begin to swell and form a gently sloped spilling wave, much the way an ocean wave increases in size and shape before breaking along the shore.
  • the preferred slope of inclined section 14 is between about 1 :25 and 1 :50 although the actual slope can vary somewhat.
  • the preferred ratio of wave height to water depth is preferably about 3.75/6 using the depth at first end 15.
  • Sloped floor 8 is preferably configured with a declining section 16 extending downstream from inclined section 14 which effectively increases the depth of channel 3, such as back to its original depth (or less or more), and therefore, helps to prevent the waves from breaking and collapsing dramatically onto shore section 20.
  • wave 13 is allowed to swell and increase in height, i.e., on account of the slope of inclined section 14, once it passes over declining section 16, and the bottom drops out, so to speak, to form a cavity or compartment 41 , wave 13 will stop breaking and will be converted into a non-breaking swell that continues to travel forward toward shore section 20. This allows the novice surfer to slow down and back off and avoid crashing onto shore 20.
  • shore 20 preferably comprises a first wave dampening mechanism comprising an inclined grated “false” or “raised” floor 37 that extends above the inclined section 14 of sloped floor 8 and cavity 41.
  • Raised floor 37 preferably has grates 40 and extends along substantially the same or slightly greater slope as inclined section 14.
  • Raised floor 37 preferably extends further upward above the top of inclined section 14 downstream from declining section 16 to form a sloped artificial beach 39 on which surfers can stand in their bare feet.
  • raised floor 37 begins at about half way up the slope of inclined section 14, i.e., when body of water 5 is 5 feet deep at first end 15, raised floor 37 preferably begins at about 2.5 feet above the floor of horizontal section 12 somewhere along inclined section 14.
  • Artificial beach 39 is the area upon which waves 13 would ordinarily break, except that, in the preferred embodiment, the wave dampening mechanism, comprising declining section 16 and raised floor 37 with grates 40, is preferably provided to cause waves 13 to convert into substantially non-breaking swells that travel downstream toward beach 39.
  • the wave dampening mechanism comprising declining section 16 and raised floor 37 with grates 40, is preferably provided to cause waves 13 to convert into substantially non-breaking swells that travel downstream toward beach 39.
  • raised floor 37 is preferably provided with grates 40, as shown in Figure 8, on all or a portion thereof, to allow water and wave energy to pass through it and into cavity 41 below.
  • the grate openings in such case are preferably small enough such that surfers will not be injured standing on it with their bare feet, while at the same time, large enough to allow a sufficient amount of water and wave energy to pass through.
  • inclined section 14 i.e., to become higher and steeper
  • the waves will eventually stop breaking and collapsing, and be converted into non-breaking swells.
  • the remaining water and wave energy carried forward by the swell would pass through the raised floor 37, and into cavity 41 beneath raised floor 37. This way, wave 13 would not break and collapse onto artificial beach 39, but rather, pass directly through raised floor 37.
  • an overflow wall 45 and overflow chamber 43 are preferably provided further downstream of cavity 41 underneath raised floor 37, wherein any excess water carried forward and upward by waves 13 can flow over overflow wall 45, and stored within overflow chamber 43.
  • any excess water that rises above the level of overflow wall 45 will automatically flow into overflow chamber 43, and therefore, be prevented from re-entering body of water 5.
  • excess water and wave energy contained within body of water 5 can be captured and stored within overflow chamber 43, wherein the amount of reflections and Whitewater and mass transport of water within body of water 5 can be reduced or eliminated thereby.
  • Overflow wall 45 is preferably adapted to be at or near the static mean water level of body of water 5, i.e., it can be slightly higher or lower depending on the circumstances, however.
  • overflow wall 45 has a horizontal upper edge over which water from waves 13 and wave energy can pass.
  • the front of overflow wall 45 can also be sloped (not shown) to further dampen the waves and reduce the occurrence of reflections and rebounding effects which can otherwise travel in a reverse direction across channel 3 toward wave generator end 15.
  • a pump 47 and an opening 48 are preferably provided on overflow wall 45 to allow water contained within overflow chamber 43 to be returned to cavity 41 and therefore body of water 5. This allows the level of the water in overflow chamber 43 to be maintained relatively low compared to body of water 5, which is desirable for the excess water and wave energy in channel 3 to be captured within overflow chamber 43.
  • Pump 47 can also be adapted to pump a predetermined amount of water from overflow chamber 43 to cavity 41 to allow some of the water to travel in a reverse direction that opposes the oncoming waves.
  • Shore section 20 is preferably provided with a recovery area 42 above raised floor 37 which can be provided with a grated surface, although not necessarily so, upon which surfers can stand after completing a run. When recovery area 42 is provided with grates, excess water can pass through and down into cavity 41 below.
  • An exit area 46 as well as back stairway 44, as shown in Figure 9, can also be provided. Back stairway 44 can lead down behind the back end of channel 3, and can extend up to walkway 23.
  • Figures 12-15 show first end 15 of channel 3 with a supplemental dampening mechanism for reducing residual wave movements and rebounding effects within body of water 5.
  • a supplemental dampening mechanism for reducing residual wave movements and rebounding effects within body of water 5.
  • the supplemental dampening mechanism of the present invention is preferably located at first end 15 and adapted to substantially eliminate these excess water movements and effects to further assist in making the original waves smoother and gentler as they are generated by wave generator 17.
  • Supplemental dampening mechanism preferably comprises a supplemental overflow wall 49 above the exit point of wave generator 17, as shown in Figures 12-14, which is where hulls or openings 35 are located.
  • wave generator 17 is preferably located below the static mean water level of body of water 5
  • overflow wall 49 is preferably extended above wave generator 17, and at or near the static mean water level of body of water 5, as shown in Figure 14.
  • Upstream of overflow wall 49 is preferably a supplemental overflow chamber 51 , as shown in Figures 13 and 14, similar to overflow chamber 43. Note that channel 3 in Figures 13-15 is facing the opposite direction as channel 3 in Figure 7 (with wave generator 17 on the right end rather than the left end).
  • opening 53 is preferably provided with grates 55 to prevent objects within body of water 5 from inadvertently being drawn into overflow chamber 51. Any water in overflow chamber 51 can be pumped back into body of water 5 without causing additional movements and effects.
  • Figures 16-20 show section views of the embodiment of channel 3 shown in Figure 7, comprising in particular, side walls 10 and 21 , floor 7 or 8, and walkway 23, and in this embodiment, a see-through flexible barrier 57 is preferably extended within channel 3 to protect see-through wall 21.
  • Barrier 57 is preferably extended substantially vertically and parallel to see-through wall 21 , but spaced apart far enough, i.e., preferably a few feet away (such as 3 to 4 feet), to prevent see-through wall 21 from being accidentally damaged by errant surfers and boards within body of water 5.
  • Barrier 57 is preferably flexible so that it can catch errant surfers and boards before they make contact with and cause damage to see-through wall 21 , and without causing injury to the surfer.
  • Barrier 57 is preferably made of a see-through material so that viewers can see into channel 3 through see-through wall 21 without their vision being obscured. Barrier 57 is preferably adapted to allow water and wave energy to flow freely through and/or around barrier 57 into the space 59 that exists between see-through wall 21 and barrier 57 as wave 13 travels through channel 3.
  • Figure 16 shows that body of water 5 remains in static equilibrium across the entire width of channel 3, including on both sides of barrier 57, i.e., including within space 59, notwithstanding the existence of barrier 57.
  • Figure 17 also shows that as the water level rises within channel 3, it rises in substantially the same manner on both sides of barrier 57, i.e., as the crest of wave 13 travels through channel 3, it remains at substantially the same height on both sides of barrier 57, including within space 59.
  • barrier 57 is preferably constructed in a manner that allows water and wave energy to pass through it and/or around it, such that water will flow into space 59 just as readily as it fills channel 3. Accordingly, the water level across the width of channel 3 will remain substantially the same on both sides of barrier 57, which helps to eliminate hydraulic pressure that would otherwise create a significant force against barrier 57.
  • barrier 57 If water did not flow equally through space 59, the weight of the water and wave passing through channel 3 would require barrier 57 to be made stronger and thicker to withstand the weight of the water accumulating within channel 3, and avoid barrier 57 from collapsing under the pressure thereof.
  • barrier 57 is preferably constructed with a flexible sheet of see-through material 62, such as made of plastic, pulled tight and wrapped around a rigid frame 61 along the edges.
  • Frame 61 preferably comprises rigid tubes or members 63, as shown in Figures 19 and 20, extended away from side wall 9 using a plurality of extension arms, around which plastic material 62 is preferably wrapped and secured to keep material 62 relatively taut and separated from see-through wall 21.
  • material 62 can be pulled tight around frame 63 at the top, by using a mechanism like a spring 65, which is attached with a brace to side wall frame 9, and secured at the bottom by wrapping it around another frame member 63, which is also extended away from side wall 9 using a plurality of extension arms, and then extending and securing it to a lower frame member 67, such as a pipe, which is also attached with a brace to side wall 9.
  • a lower frame member 67 such as a pipe
  • gap 71 between material 62 and side wall 9 along the bottom so that water and wave energy can pass around and underneath barrier 57 and into space 59.
  • a gap is also preferably provided between the bottom of material 62 and floor 7 or 8, which also ensures that water and wave energy can pass underneath barrier 57 and into space 59.
  • Openings (not shown), such as vertical slits, and/or small holes, can also be provided within material 62 to allow water to pass directly through it if desired.
  • Other gaps within barrier 57 can be provided, such as at first end 15 and second end 19, to allow more water to pass around and into space 59.
  • barrier 57 does not need to begin at the far upstream end of channel 3, but instead, it can begin several feet downstream from wave generator 17.
  • barrier 57 can be terminated several feet before reaching second end 19, such that water and wave energy can pass around the downstream end of barrier 57.
  • the restoring force of gravity can cause the water level to remain in equilibrium across the entire width of channel 3 including both sides of barrier 57 throughout the length of channel 3.
  • the barrier can be a watertight flexible see-through bubble of air that provides a cushioning effect that is situated adjacent see-through wall 21 , or a mesh/net that extends in a similar manner, or other suitable alternative means of protection.
  • the second dampening mechanism can be removed, wherein the slight movements and effects in the water that reflect from the second end to the first end can be tolerated.
  • various aspects and features discussed herein are considered to be desirable, and represent features of the preferred embodiments, wherein the waves created thereby can be used by novice surfers for training purposes.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a wave channel having a body of water therein with a wave generator that creates periodic waves that travel from one end to another upon which novice surfers can surf for training purposes. The front side wall is preferably made of see-through material and a flexible protective barrier is preferably provided to prevent errant surfers and boards from damaging the side wall. One or more wave dampening systems can be provided, such as at either end of the channel, to help reduce or eliminate unwanted rip currents and wave reflections within the channel.

Description

TRAINING METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR SURFING USING SOLITARY WAVE CHANNEL
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to the field of simulated surfing apparatuses and methods, and in particular, to a method and apparatus adapted to create a gently sloped spilling wave capable of being used by beginning surfers for training purposes.
Background of the Invention
Wave pools have become popular at water theme parks throughout the country. Wave pools are man-made bodies of water in which waves are created much like waves in an ocean. A wave pool typically has a wave generating machine located at one end and an artificial sloped "beach" located at the other end, wherein the wave generating machine creates periodic waves that travel from one end to the other. The floor of the pool near the beach is preferably sloped upward so that as the waves approach, the floor causes the waves to "break" onto the beach. Typically, wave pools are designed to simulate waves created in nature, but thus far, wave pools have not been successful in creating the type of waves suitable for novice surfers who are attempting to learn. At the current time, there are few if any surfing facilities that are specifically designed for novice surfers seeking to learn how to surf using standard surf boards. In this respect, a novice surfer is typically confronted with several disadvantages when attempting to learn, as follows:
First, in a conventional wave pool, there is often insufficient room for a novice surfer to "catch" a wave before it develops and breaks. Generally speaking, a surfer must paddle in the direction of the advancing wave, and then, maneuver and get into position at just the right time. If this is not done properly, the surfer can miss the wave in which case he or she would have to wait for the next wave before trying again.
Second, the wave must be of optimum size and shape for the novice surfer to be able to ride the wave successfully. If the wave is too large, or too steep, for example, the novice surfer may find it difficult to maneuver into position and take advantage of the wave's forward momentum. On the other hand, if the wave is too small, or too shallow, the novice surfer may find it difficult to generate enough forward momentum to properly get on and ride the wave. Third, because of the difficulty of learning how to catch and ride a wave properly, the novice surfer will typically need additional time in the pool. For example, if the novice surfer desires to stand up on and ride the surf board, he or she will typically require more time to not only get into the correct position and achieve balance than it would an expert surfer, but also more practice time to do it correctly. This also means that the novice surfer would have to travel a longer distance through the pool to stand up on the board, which will typically mean that more space would be required. Wave pools in such case would need to be made larger and longer to give the novice surfer enough time and distance to make the appropriate adjustments to ride the wave properly.
Fourth, another associated problem is that if the size of the wave pool is increased, the cost of construction will also be increased. In recent years, there has been an increase in the demand and desire for more powerful wave generating machines and larger wave pools designed to produce larger waves, but creating larger wave pools means that the cost of construction will necessarily be higher. This is especially true when wave pools are installed in areas where land is scarce, i.e., building larger wave pools to increase wave size is not often cost-effective.
Fifth, the manner in which the waves break can significantly impact the novice surfer's ability to exit the wave properly which can affect the extent to which the novice surfer will be able to continue to learn and be motivated to learn. One problem associated with wave pools is that a reverse current can be created on the sloped surface of the beach as each successive wave passes by and breaks. The energy from each collapsing wave typically causes the water to be pushed up, and then, due to gravity, flow back down against the next oncoming waves. This reverse "rip" current, as they are so called, can detrimentally affect how water and wave energy dissipate, i.e., they can cause waves to break differentially and affect the shape of the waves. This can not only make surfing more difficult to learn, but it can also lead to an increased risk of injury.
Sixth, in order to maximize the productive asset value of a wave pool, it is desirable to increase, not decrease, the frequency of wave generation in order to allow an increased number of riders per hour with a corresponding increase in revenue per hour using the same asset base. On the other hand, the production of rip currents and other water movements and effects onto the beach can reduce the frequency of wave generation and thereby reduce its commercial value. This is because as the Whitewater and turbulence along the beach are increased, more time must be provided between successive waves to give each wave a chance to subside and clear and each surfer a chance to practice. Also, in many cases, more time is required for fallen surfers to move out of the way as each succeeding wave advances.
Seventh, another problem that can occur is when wave pools are used to host surfing exhibitions and competitions. Making wave pools larger has the detrimental effect of forcing spectators (who are normally seated on bleachers or grandstands immediately behind the beach) further away from the waves, which can leave spectators further away from the action. This is particularly true given that one way to make wave pools safer is to decrease the slope of the pool floor, which in turn, increases the distance between where the waves break and where the spectators are seated. A related problem is that competition surfing class wave pools often employ rapid changes in pool bottom topography in order to create preferred plunging style breakers. And, given the increased potential for bathers to lose their footing, abrupt bottom contours are viewed as hazardous by governmental health and safety organizations, leading to inadvertent head injuries and diving accidents. In Applicant's previous Patent No. 6,460,201 , a "Method and apparatus for controlling break points and reducing rip currents in wave pools" was disclosed. In that patent, a grated floor was used along the beach end of the wave pool to allow water and wave energy to pass through, and thereby reduce the rip currents and reflections that would otherwise exist. Nevertheless, in some respects, that version did not fully address the residual water movements and wave effects that can occur. Moreover, Applicant is not aware of any wave pools that are specifically designed to create a gently sloped spilling wave or non-breaking swell that allows novice surfers an enhanced ability to slow down and easily back off and exit from the wave and avoid crashing onto the beach. What is needed, therefore, is an improved wave pool design that produces enhanced but gentle sloped spilling waves that are converted into non-breaking swells which can be safely used by novice surfers for training purposes, while at the same time, allowing for greater wave frequency, smaller wave pool size, and reduced construction costs, among other things.
Summary of the Invention The present invention relates to a wave channel adapted to generate the kind of waves that are suitable for use by novice surfers for the purpose of training. Generally speaking, the present invention comprises a longitudinally extended channel having a body of water contained therein having a predetermined depth suitable for creating a solitary wave therein that travels from one end to another. The channel preferably has a wave generator located at a first end, and a floor that slopes gradually upward from the first end to the second end, opposite the first end, and two side walls extending longitudinally from one end to the other.
The wave generator preferably generates waves that travel in a forward direction, from the first end to the second end, and can be virtually any type, including a paddle wave generator, or wave cannon, or other suitable wave generator,. The waves that are formed are preferably maintained as gently sloped swells (as opposed to steeply sloped plunging waves) as they travel forward through the channel, wherein they are preferably eventually acted upon by the slope of the inclined floor and begin to spill over and break toward the second end. Preferably, to enable spectators to watch the surfers perform, both above and below water, there is a see-through wall, such as made of tempered and shatter resistant glass, extending substantially longitudinally along at least one of the side walls. The see-through wall is preferably extended vertically upward from the floor of the channel to well above the peak height of the waves. It is also preferably extended the full length of the channel, although not necessarily so, such that viewers can see both ' above and below water level from one end to the other.
Preferably, a protective see-through flexible barrier extends substantially vertically and longitudinally within the body of water, between the surfable area of the channel and where the see-through wall is located, to protect the see-through wall from being damaged by errant surfers and boards. The barrier is preferably made of a flexible material that reduces the chances of injuries to surfers as they travel through the channel and is preferably made of a see-through material that allows viewers and spectators to see into the channel. The flexible barrier is preferably spaced a sufficient distance from the see-through wall to prevent surfers and boards from accidentally hitting the see-through wall. Preferably, the barrier is open along the bottom and/or sides or otherwise allows water to flow through it so that water in the channel can circulate freely between the surfable area of the channel and the space between the barrier and see-through wall. This helps to ensure that water and wave energy are substantially identical on both sides of the barrier, such that as the waves travel through the channel, they will do so in substantially the same manner on both sides thereof. That is, as the waves travel through the channel, the same wave that forms on the surfable side of the channel will essentially be formed in the space between the see-through wall and barrier, i.e., the height of the wave will be substantially the same on both sides of the barrier. Accordingly, hydraulic pressure will be in equilibrium on both sides of the barrier, wherein the barrier will not have to be built to withstand the weight of the wave traveling through the surfable side of the channel, which would otherwise be necessary to keep the barrier from collapsing.
On the side wall opposite the see-through wall, there is preferably a horizontal walkway that extends from the first end to the second end at about the maximum height of the waves to be formed in the channel. The walkway essentially extends outward from the top of the side wall opposite the see-through wall, wherein, the width of the channel is thereby expanded wider at the predetermined height. This way, as the waves are formed, they cannot travel any higher than the height of the walkway without the top of the wave spilling out and over onto the walkway. The walkway therefore effectively serves as a wave diminution device that controls the height of the waves automatically, so that they are not too large or powerful and therefore too dangerous. The walkway also preferably enables surfers that become stranded in the channel to easily exit, and is preferably padded to avoid injuries.
At the second end where the beach is located, a wave dampening mechanism is preferably provided for reducing rip currents and other wave effects in the body of water. The dampening mechanism preferably comprises a raised grated artificial floor extended along a slope that allows water and wave energy to pass through, but nevertheless, allows individuals to stand on the surface in their bare feet. The raised floor is preferably extended upward above the solid inclined floor and extends up along a similar or slightly greater slope toward the second end of the channel. A cavity or compartment is preferably provided underneath the raised floor just downstream beyond the solid inclined floor where a drop off is located. The cavity is preferably extended below the raised floor to allow water and wave energy to pass through into the cavity below. This way, the waves that are formed as gently sloped spilling waves will eventually stop breaking, i.e., at or near the drop off location, wherein a non-breaking swell that eventually passes through the grated surface of the raised floor can be created.
Further downstream from the cavity there is preferably an overflow wall and overflow chamber into which excess water flowing above the static mean water level can pass. The overflow wall preferably has an upper edge extended at about the static mean water level of the body of water, over which any residual water and wave energy can pass. The overflow chamber preferably allows any excess water from the advancing wave to collect and be separated from the body of water in the channel. This water/wave energy collection area preferably minimizes reflections and rebounding effects thereby allowing the body of water in the channel to revert to a quiescent state more quickly. This way, even though the gently sloped wave will increase or maintain its height as it travels toward the shore, the wave will stop breaking and not collapse onto the shore, which enables surfers to slow down and back off and avoid crashing onto the beach.
Preferably, a pump is provided on the overflow wall that communicates with the overflow chamber so that water can be pumped from the chamber back into the cavity and therefore the body of water. This allows the amount of water stored in the overflow chamber to be reduced so that the water level in the overflow chamber will remain below that of the body of water in the channel, which helps to enable water and wave energy to flow properly into the overflow chamber and be stored and dissipated. The amount of water pumped back from the overflow chamber to the cavity and channel is preferably controlled to cause a residual amount of water to travel in a reverse direction against the oncoming waves without adversely forming rip currents and other undesirable reflections and movements into the body of water. Although this can, if significant, be detrimental to the formation of the oncoming waves, by controlling and limiting the amount of this reverse flow, the present invention can control the size and character of the oncoming waves, and allow the rider to slow down and back off as the waves approach shore, which is preferably done in a precise and controlled manner.
Preferably, the wave dampening mechanism including the raised floor is sufficient in size, and extends both above and below the static mean water level, to allow water and wave energy to pass through as the waves travel across and advance toward the shore. Because the raised floor allows water and wave energy to pass through, the normal tendency of waves to break and collapse onto the beach, and therefore, create Whitewater and mass transport thereon, can be reduced.
Preferably, a second wave dampening mechanism is provided at the first end of the channel where the wave generator is located for reducing any additional wave effects and reflections that might exist in the body of water. That is, as the original waves travel across the channel, some of the energy that flows against the overflow wall can be reflected back toward the first end, i.e., those that bounce off and travel backward toward the wave generator. Accordingly, a rebound effect can be created within the body of water which can cause residual wave motions to travel back towards the wave generator in the opposite direction. This can leave some residual movements and wave effects in the body of water that can be detrimental to the smooth formation of the oncoming waves.
The second dampening mechanism preferably comprises a second overflow wall located at the first end above the wave generator over which excess water and wave energy traveling in the reverse direction can flow. It also preferably has a second overflow chamber into which the excess water from the wave effects can collect and therefore be separated from the body of water, thereby further reducing the water movements and rebound effects in the channel.
The two dampening mechanisms described above help to reduce the residual movements and wave effects within the body of water at the first and second ends to enable the waves that travel across the channel to remain relatively smooth and free of Whitewater and turbulence. This enables the waves to form as gently sloped swells and remain that way as they travel across the channel until they begin to spill over and break.
Brief Description of the Drawings FIGURE 1 is a side view of an embodiment of the present invention showing a channel with a body of water therein, with a horizontal floor and a front see-through side wall, with a wave generator located at the far upstream end of the channel for generating periodic waves that travel toward the opposite end;
FIGURE 2 is a top view of the embodiment shown in Figure 1 in the same orientation;
FIGURE 3 is an isometric view of the wave generator end of the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ;
FIGURE 4 is a section view of the channel showing a wave at peak height within the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ; FIGURE 5 is a section view of the channel showing the wave generator end of the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 (note that this section view is taken in the opposite direction looking upstream toward the wave generators);
FIGURE 6 is a section view of the channel showing the water at its static mean water level within the channel in the embodiment shown in Figure 1 ; FIGURE 7 is a side view of an embodiment of the present invention showing a channel with a body of water therein, wherein the channel has a sloped floor with a wave generator located at the far upstream end and a sloped incline with a wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel;
FIGURE 8 is a section detail of the far downstream end of the embodiment shown in Figure 7 with a wave dampening mechanism for reducing rip currents and preventing waves from breaking and collapsing onto the shore, wherein the mechanism has a sloped solid floor with an artificial raised floor with grated surface extended above it, wherein there is a cavity section, an overflow wall and overflow chamber underneath to facilitate the clearing of water and wave energy from the channel; FIGURE 9 is an isometric view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the artificial beach and grated raised floor above the cavity and overflow chamber, and the see-through wall in front;
FIGURE 10 is a section detail of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the artificial beach and grated raised floor thereon, along with the overflow wall, the overflow chamber, and pump for circulating water back into the channel;
FIGURE 11 is a top view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave dampening mechanism located at the far downstream end of the channel, with the overflow wall in the center, and the overflow chamber on the right, and the pump for circulating water back into the channel on the overflow wall;
FIGURE 12 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing a wave generator located at the far upstream end of the channel wherein this view is taken looking upstream toward the wave generators;
FIGURE 13 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing a second wave dampening mechanism located at the upstream wave generator end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
FIGURE 14 is a detail section view taken from Figure 13 showing the overflow wall of the second wave dampening mechanism located at the far upstream end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
FIGURE 15 is a top view of the embodiment of Figure 7 showing the wave generator end of the channel (note that this drawing faces the opposite direction as Figure 7, i.e., the downstream direction extends from right to left, rather than from left to right);
FIGURE 16 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side, and the walkway on the left hand side, with the flexible see-through barrier extended within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the body of water is at static equilibrium on both sides of the barrier; FIGURE 17 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side, and the walkway on the left hand side, with the flexible see-through barrier extended within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the crest of the wave is shown passing through the channel on both sides of the barrier;
FIGURE 18 is a section view of the embodiment of Figure 7 looking downstream showing the see-through wall on the right hand side and the flexible see-through barrier extending within the channel to prevent damage to the see-through wall, wherein the bottom of the barrier is shown terminating above the floor; FIGURE 19 is a detail section view taken from Figure 18 showing the padded surface on top of the upper support member of the flexible barrier, and a spring that keeps the flexible barrier taught; and
FIGURE 20 is a detail section view taken from Figure 18 showing how the flexible barrier is connected to the lower support member along the bottom, wherein a gap is shown to exist between the lower support member and see-through wall.
Detailed Description of the Invention
Figures 1 through 6 show a first embodiment of the present invention comprising a longitudinally extended channel 3 with a body of water 5 contained therein. Channel 3 preferably has a floor 7, two side walls 9 extending substantially vertically upward therefrom, and two end sections 11 , including first end 15 (on the far left end as shown in Figure 1) and second end 19 (on the far right end as shown in Figure 1). In this embodiment, floor 7 is shown to be extended substantially horizontally from first end 15 to second end 19, although in the preferred embodiment shown in Figure 7, it is sloped to cause wave 13 to spill and break as will be discussed. A wave generator 17 with various pumps and/or other equipment is preferably located at first end 15 and adapted to produce periodic waves 13 that travel from first end 15 to second end 19, i.e., which is the "downstream" direction. Wave generator 17 can be any conventional type, including but not limited to, vacuum, pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, paddle, wave cannon, etc., to create sufficient movement within body of water 5 to create periodic waves 13 desirable for surfing. In the preferred embodiment, wave generator 17 is a wave cannon type that is housed within hulls or openings 35 as shown in Figure 5. The amount of energy required to create waves 13 will depend on the desired size and height of the waves relative to the amount of water contained within body of water 5. In one embodiment, for example, wave generator 17 can be adapted to have 200 horsepower or more, and channel 3 can have the capacity to hold 75,000 gallons or more.
In the preferred embodiments, the wave height is preferably a function of the depth of body of water 5, i.e., the preferred ratio of wave height to water depth is preferably about 3.75/6. Accordingly, in a situation where body of water 5 is about 5 feet deep, the preferred wave height would be about 3.125 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5 within channel 3. In this respect, for the purpose of creating waves suitable for novice surfers, the range of wave heights is preferably about 3 to 4 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5, although virtually any size/height that achieves the desired results may be employed. Body of water 5 is preferably not more than about 5 feet deep so that the risk of drowning can be reduced. In the example shown in Figure 1 , the overall footprint of channel 3 is 16 feet wide by 185 feet long with an area of 2,960 square feet, although virtually any dimension is possible.
Figure 1 shows gently sloped spilling wave 13 (as opposed to a steeply sloped plunging wave) passing through body of water 5 from first end 15 to second end 19. This view also shows a see-through wall 21 preferably made of tempered laminated glass or other durable shatter resistant see-through material extending longitudinally as one of the two side walls 9, which allows viewers to see into channel 3. By extending see-through wall 21 above the static mean water level of body of water 5, viewers are able to see into channel 3 above water level, and by extending see-through wall 21 below the static mean water level of body of water 5, viewers are able to see into channel 3 below water level.
See-through wall 21 preferably has vertical stiffeners 33 and a frame 34 extending from top to bottom to provide lateral support thereto. Stiffeners 33 and frame 34 are preferably made of steel or other strong and rigid material to support the weight of the water and wave traveling through channel 3. Preferably, stiffeners 33 are secured at the top and bottom to the ceiling and floor, respectively, so that they do not have to be cantilevered upward, and are secured properly to provide support for wall 21.
Above side wall 10, as shown in Figure 4, which is opposite side wall 21 , a walkway 23 is preferably extended from end to end, which allows surfers within channel 3 to easily exit from body of water 5. In section view, walkway 23 is preferably extended substantially horizontally outward from the top of side wall 10, wherein it provides the additional advantage of expanding the width of channel 3 at a predetermined height which helps to prevent waves 13 from exceeding that height. That is, once waves 13 reach the height of walkway 23, the wave's crest will begin to spill over onto walkway 23, and therefore, waves 13 within channel 3 cannot go any higher than the height of walkway 23 without the top of the wave spilling over and onto walkway 23. In this way, walkway 23 essentially serves as a wave diminution device that automatically prevents waves 13 from rising too high. In this respect, walkway 23 is preferably set at or near the desired maximum height of wave 13, which, in the preferred embodiment, is about 4 feet above the static mean water level. Walkway 23 is preferably padded and rounded to prevent injury in case surfers fall within channel 3, and preferably has railings along the exterior side thereof. Having walkway 23 extended outward from side wall 10 also helps users avoid the sense of being surrounded by the walls, which in turn, helps reduce any claustrophobic feelings that can otherwise occur inside channel 3. Figure 4 shows a cross section of channel 3 with wave 13 at its peak height, such as extending up to about 4 feet above the static mean water level of body of water 5, whereas Figure 6 shows a cross section of channel 3 with body of water 5 at its static mean water level (with no wave formed therein). As can be seen, see-through wall 21 preferably extends from floor 7 to a height that is well above the peak water level of wave 13 and preferably up to the ceiling height of channel 3, although not necessarily so. Opposite side wall 10, however, is preferably terminated at the desired height of wave 13, which is the preferred height of walkway 23, to prevent wave 13 from going too high, as discussed. Opposite side wall 10 can be made of glass to allow viewers to see into channel 3 from both sides, and constructed in a manner similar to see-through wall 21 , although in the preferred embodiment, side wall 10 is a structural wall without glass. This is because otherwise a protective barrier like the type discussed in connection with side wall 21 would be needed to protect wall 10. Support bars extending from side wall 10 can be provided intermittently to provide support for walkway 23.
Figure 5 shows a cross section of channel 3 at the wave generator end 15 and shows three wave cannon hulls or openings 35 in which wave generators 17 are located and through which wave motions are created within body of water 5. This view also shows the configuration of entrance platform 27 with railings 29 on either side thereof. There is preferably a stairway 25 that extends up and around wave generator 17 and connects to entrance platform 27, which in turn, connects to walkway 23, as shown in Figure 3. Entrance opening 31 is preferably provided between railings 29 through which surfers can enter into channel 3, and therefore, into body of water 5. As will be discussed later in connection with Figures 12-15, Figure 5 also shows an opening 53 which forms an entry point for a second dampening mechanism located beneath entrance platform 27 but above wave generator 17. Figures 7-20 show a preferred embodiment that is similar to the embodiment shown in Figures 1-6 except that it has a sloped floor 8 that has a substantially horizontal section 12 that gradually slopes upward to form an inclined section 14 (shown in black) that eventually forms a shore section 20. In this embodiment, the inclined section 14 is preferably adapted with a slope of between 1 :25 to 1 :50 and preferably causes the depth of body of water 5 within channel 3 to be progressively reduced from first end 15 to second end 19, such that as wave 13 travels across, it will begin to swell and form a gently sloped spilling wave, much the way an ocean wave increases in size and shape before breaking along the shore. In this respect, to produce smooth breaker waves that novice surfers can ride on for training purposes (a gently breaking wave that is between a spilling wave and a plunging breaker wave), the preferred slope of inclined section 14 is between about 1 :25 and 1 :50 although the actual slope can vary somewhat. The preferred ratio of wave height to water depth is preferably about 3.75/6 using the depth at first end 15.
Sloped floor 8 is preferably configured with a declining section 16 extending downstream from inclined section 14 which effectively increases the depth of channel 3, such as back to its original depth (or less or more), and therefore, helps to prevent the waves from breaking and collapsing dramatically onto shore section 20. Although wave 13 is allowed to swell and increase in height, i.e., on account of the slope of inclined section 14, once it passes over declining section 16, and the bottom drops out, so to speak, to form a cavity or compartment 41 , wave 13 will stop breaking and will be converted into a non-breaking swell that continues to travel forward toward shore section 20. This allows the novice surfer to slow down and back off and avoid crashing onto shore 20.
At second end 19, shore 20 preferably comprises a first wave dampening mechanism comprising an inclined grated "false" or "raised" floor 37 that extends above the inclined section 14 of sloped floor 8 and cavity 41. Raised floor 37 preferably has grates 40 and extends along substantially the same or slightly greater slope as inclined section 14. Raised floor 37 preferably extends further upward above the top of inclined section 14 downstream from declining section 16 to form a sloped artificial beach 39 on which surfers can stand in their bare feet. Preferably, raised floor 37 begins at about half way up the slope of inclined section 14, i.e., when body of water 5 is 5 feet deep at first end 15, raised floor 37 preferably begins at about 2.5 feet above the floor of horizontal section 12 somewhere along inclined section 14. Artificial beach 39 is the area upon which waves 13 would ordinarily break, except that, in the preferred embodiment, the wave dampening mechanism, comprising declining section 16 and raised floor 37 with grates 40, is preferably provided to cause waves 13 to convert into substantially non-breaking swells that travel downstream toward beach 39.
In this respect, raised floor 37 is preferably provided with grates 40, as shown in Figure 8, on all or a portion thereof, to allow water and wave energy to pass through it and into cavity 41 below. The grate openings in such case are preferably small enough such that surfers will not be injured standing on it with their bare feet, while at the same time, large enough to allow a sufficient amount of water and wave energy to pass through. This way, as the waves travel across channel 3, and are acted upon by inclined section 14, i.e., to become higher and steeper, the waves will eventually stop breaking and collapsing, and be converted into non-breaking swells. Then, the remaining water and wave energy carried forward by the swell would pass through the raised floor 37, and into cavity 41 beneath raised floor 37. This way, wave 13 would not break and collapse onto artificial beach 39, but rather, pass directly through raised floor 37.
This helps to reduce or eliminate the creation of reverse "rip" currents that can cause water to flow back down the sloped beach and against the oncoming waves. This also helps to reduce unwanted reflections and residual wave motions and effects, which helps to keep the waves calmer and smoother as they pass through body of water 5 and toward beach 39. This also allows more waves to be produced at greater frequencies, and helps reduce the size and footprint of channel 3.
To facilitate the clearance of water and wave energy through raised floor 37 and into cavity 41 , an overflow wall 45 and overflow chamber 43 are preferably provided further downstream of cavity 41 underneath raised floor 37, wherein any excess water carried forward and upward by waves 13 can flow over overflow wall 45, and stored within overflow chamber 43. By virtue of water seeking its own level, as each wave travels forward and passes through raised floor 37, and into cavity 41 , any excess water that rises above the level of overflow wall 45 will automatically flow into overflow chamber 43, and therefore, be prevented from re-entering body of water 5. This way, excess water and wave energy contained within body of water 5 can be captured and stored within overflow chamber 43, wherein the amount of reflections and Whitewater and mass transport of water within body of water 5 can be reduced or eliminated thereby.
Overflow wall 45 is preferably adapted to be at or near the static mean water level of body of water 5, i.e., it can be slightly higher or lower depending on the circumstances, however. Preferably, overflow wall 45 has a horizontal upper edge over which water from waves 13 and wave energy can pass. The front of overflow wall 45 can also be sloped (not shown) to further dampen the waves and reduce the occurrence of reflections and rebounding effects which can otherwise travel in a reverse direction across channel 3 toward wave generator end 15.
A pump 47 and an opening 48, as shown in Figures 9-11 , are preferably provided on overflow wall 45 to allow water contained within overflow chamber 43 to be returned to cavity 41 and therefore body of water 5. This allows the level of the water in overflow chamber 43 to be maintained relatively low compared to body of water 5, which is desirable for the excess water and wave energy in channel 3 to be captured within overflow chamber 43. Pump 47 can also be adapted to pump a predetermined amount of water from overflow chamber 43 to cavity 41 to allow some of the water to travel in a reverse direction that opposes the oncoming waves. That is, as water is pumped from overflow chamber 43 to cavity 41 , and passes back through raised floor 37, and into body of water 5, a mild reverse flow can be created to further effect a change in the flow and energy of the oncoming waves. When done properly, this can be used to control the degree to which the oncoming waves are dampened and allowed to crest and break and spill as they progress forward. Shore section 20 is preferably provided with a recovery area 42 above raised floor 37 which can be provided with a grated surface, although not necessarily so, upon which surfers can stand after completing a run. When recovery area 42 is provided with grates, excess water can pass through and down into cavity 41 below. An exit area 46 as well as back stairway 44, as shown in Figure 9, can also be provided. Back stairway 44 can lead down behind the back end of channel 3, and can extend up to walkway 23.
Figures 12-15 show first end 15 of channel 3 with a supplemental dampening mechanism for reducing residual wave movements and rebounding effects within body of water 5. Whenever a wave travels forward and across body of water 5, some reflections and residual movements and undulations may occur as a result of the wave energy being reflected back from second end 19, wherein these movements may cause small ripples and wave effects that travel in a reverse direction toward wave generator end 15. The supplemental dampening mechanism of the present invention is preferably located at first end 15 and adapted to substantially eliminate these excess water movements and effects to further assist in making the original waves smoother and gentler as they are generated by wave generator 17.
Supplemental dampening mechanism preferably comprises a supplemental overflow wall 49 above the exit point of wave generator 17, as shown in Figures 12-14, which is where hulls or openings 35 are located. In this respect, wave generator 17 is preferably located below the static mean water level of body of water 5, and overflow wall 49 is preferably extended above wave generator 17, and at or near the static mean water level of body of water 5, as shown in Figure 14. Upstream of overflow wall 49 is preferably a supplemental overflow chamber 51 , as shown in Figures 13 and 14, similar to overflow chamber 43. Note that channel 3 in Figures 13-15 is facing the opposite direction as channel 3 in Figure 7 (with wave generator 17 on the right end rather than the left end). This way, any residual water movements and wave effects that travel in a reverse direction that may occur at the surface of body of water 5 will be allowed to flow over overflow wall 49, and through opening 53, and into overflow chamber 51. Therefore, water and wave energy associated with these movements and effects will be substantially removed from body of water 5 such that they cannot adversely affect the formation of waves 13. As shown in Figure 12, opening 53 is preferably provided with grates 55 to prevent objects within body of water 5 from inadvertently being drawn into overflow chamber 51. Any water in overflow chamber 51 can be pumped back into body of water 5 without causing additional movements and effects.
Figures 16-20 show section views of the embodiment of channel 3 shown in Figure 7, comprising in particular, side walls 10 and 21 , floor 7 or 8, and walkway 23, and in this embodiment, a see-through flexible barrier 57 is preferably extended within channel 3 to protect see-through wall 21. Barrier 57 is preferably extended substantially vertically and parallel to see-through wall 21 , but spaced apart far enough, i.e., preferably a few feet away (such as 3 to 4 feet), to prevent see-through wall 21 from being accidentally damaged by errant surfers and boards within body of water 5. Barrier 57 is preferably flexible so that it can catch errant surfers and boards before they make contact with and cause damage to see-through wall 21 , and without causing injury to the surfer. Barrier 57 is preferably made of a see-through material so that viewers can see into channel 3 through see-through wall 21 without their vision being obscured. Barrier 57 is preferably adapted to allow water and wave energy to flow freely through and/or around barrier 57 into the space 59 that exists between see-through wall 21 and barrier 57 as wave 13 travels through channel 3. For example, Figure 16 shows that body of water 5 remains in static equilibrium across the entire width of channel 3, including on both sides of barrier 57, i.e., including within space 59, notwithstanding the existence of barrier 57. Figure 17 also shows that as the water level rises within channel 3, it rises in substantially the same manner on both sides of barrier 57, i.e., as the crest of wave 13 travels through channel 3, it remains at substantially the same height on both sides of barrier 57, including within space 59. In this respect, it can be seen that barrier 57 is preferably constructed in a manner that allows water and wave energy to pass through it and/or around it, such that water will flow into space 59 just as readily as it fills channel 3. Accordingly, the water level across the width of channel 3 will remain substantially the same on both sides of barrier 57, which helps to eliminate hydraulic pressure that would otherwise create a significant force against barrier 57. If water did not flow equally through space 59, the weight of the water and wave passing through channel 3 would require barrier 57 to be made stronger and thicker to withstand the weight of the water accumulating within channel 3, and avoid barrier 57 from collapsing under the pressure thereof.
As shown in the detail drawings of Figures 18-20, barrier 57 is preferably constructed with a flexible sheet of see-through material 62, such as made of plastic, pulled tight and wrapped around a rigid frame 61 along the edges. Frame 61 preferably comprises rigid tubes or members 63, as shown in Figures 19 and 20, extended away from side wall 9 using a plurality of extension arms, around which plastic material 62 is preferably wrapped and secured to keep material 62 relatively taut and separated from see-through wall 21. As shown in Figures 19 and 20, material 62 can be pulled tight around frame 63 at the top, by using a mechanism like a spring 65, which is attached with a brace to side wall frame 9, and secured at the bottom by wrapping it around another frame member 63, which is also extended away from side wall 9 using a plurality of extension arms, and then extending and securing it to a lower frame member 67, such as a pipe, which is also attached with a brace to side wall 9. Other construction methods, nevertheless, are possible. At the top of barrier 57, there is preferably a rounded padded surface 69 which provides protection to errant surfers who might otherwise become injured if they were to fall against and strike frame 61 or 63 of barrier 57.
Preferably there is a gap 71 between material 62 and side wall 9 along the bottom so that water and wave energy can pass around and underneath barrier 57 and into space 59. A gap is also preferably provided between the bottom of material 62 and floor 7 or 8, which also ensures that water and wave energy can pass underneath barrier 57 and into space 59. Openings (not shown), such as vertical slits, and/or small holes, can also be provided within material 62 to allow water to pass directly through it if desired. Other gaps within barrier 57 can be provided, such as at first end 15 and second end 19, to allow more water to pass around and into space 59. For example, at first end 15, barrier 57 does not need to begin at the far upstream end of channel 3, but instead, it can begin several feet downstream from wave generator 17. Moreover, barrier 57 can be terminated several feet before reaching second end 19, such that water and wave energy can pass around the downstream end of barrier 57. This way, the restoring force of gravity can cause the water level to remain in equilibrium across the entire width of channel 3 including both sides of barrier 57 throughout the length of channel 3. This also helps to eliminate any differences in hydraulic pressure that might otherwise exist between the two sides. Alternatively, the barrier can be a watertight flexible see-through bubble of air that provides a cushioning effect that is situated adjacent see-through wall 21 , or a mesh/net that extends in a similar manner, or other suitable alternative means of protection.
Not all of the above features are required for the present invention to operate and function properly and effectively. For example, in one embodiment, the second dampening mechanism can be removed, wherein the slight movements and effects in the water that reflect from the second end to the first end can be tolerated. Nevertheless, various aspects and features discussed herein are considered to be desirable, and represent features of the preferred embodiments, wherein the waves created thereby can be used by novice surfers for training purposes.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. A wave channel comprising: a container with a body of water therein having a wave generator located at a first end for generating waves that travel through the body of water from said first end to a second end, opposite said first end; two longitudinally extended side walls on either side of said channel for containing the body of water, and an inclined floor extending from said first end to said second end, wherein said floor extends upward along a slope beginning at a point on the floor that is below the static water level, and extends toward a shore area that extends above the static water level at said second end; a see-through wall that extends substantially longitudinally along at least one of said side walls, wherein a portion of said see-through wall extends below the static water level of the body of water, and a portion of said see-through wall extends above the static water level of the body of water, such that viewers around the container can see into the container above and below the static water level; and wherein a flexible barrier is provided inside said container that extends substantially vertically and longitudinally in a direction that extends from said first end to said second end, wherein a space is provided between said see-through wall and said flexible barrier, such that said barrier substantially prevents errant surfers and boards within said channel from hitting said see-through wall and causing damage thereto.
2. The wave channel of claim 1 , wherein there are gaps that allow water and wave energy to pass through and/or around said flexible barrier, such that the waves that travel through said channel achieve substantially the same height on both sides of said barrier.
3. The wave channel of claim 1 , wherein said flexible barrier is made of a clear plastic material and is pulled tight between upper and lower support members extending substantially longitudinally within said channel.
4. The wave channel of claim 3, wherein there is a gap between said lower support member and said floor of said channel, and/or there are gaps provided at the longitudinal ends of said barrier extending between said barrier and said first and second ends, wherein said gaps allow water and wave energy to pass around said barrier such that the waves that travel through said channel achieve substantially the same height on both sides of said barrier.
5. The wave channel of claim 3, wherein said upper support member is provided with padding above said flexible barrier.
6. The wave channel of claim 1 , wherein a grated floor is extended above at least a portion of said inclined floor that extends upward in a direction toward said second end, wherein said grated floor allows water and wave energy to pass through and into a cavity extending below said grated floor downstream from said inclined floor.
7. The wave channel of claim 6, wherein said cavity has a divider wall extending to a height that is about the static water level of the body of water, wherein an overflow area is provided further downstream from said divider wall.
8. The wave channel of claim 7, wherein a pump is provided to circulate water from said overflow area into said cavity.
9. The wave channel of claim 1 , wherein a walkway is provided above the side wall opposite said see-through wall at a height that is at or slightly above the anticipated maximum height of the waves formed within said container.
10. The wave channel of claim 9, wherein waves traveling within said channel cannot extend any higher than the height of said walkway without spilling over and onto said walkway.
11. The wave channel of claim 1 , wherein a wave dampening system is provided above the wave generator at said first end, wherein an overflow area and wall are provided to reduce the wave energy and wake effects that rebound from said second end.
12. A wave channel comprising: a container with a body of water therein having a wave generator located at a first end for generating waves that travel through the body of water from said first end to a second end, opposite said first end; two longitudinally extended side walls on either side of said channel for containing the body of water, and an inclined floor extending from said first end to said second end, wherein said floor extends upward along a slope beginning at a point on the floor that is below the static water level, and extends toward a shore area that extends above the static water level at said second end; a see-through wall that extends substantially longitudinally along at least one of said side walls, wherein a portion of said see-through wall extends below the static water level of the body of water, and a portion of said see-through wall extends above the static water level of the body of water, such that viewers around the container can see into the container above and below the static water level; and wherein a wave dampening system is provided comprising a raised floor extended above at least a portion of said inclined floor, wherein said raised floor allows water and wave energy to pass through and into a cavity extending below said raised floor downstream from said inclined floor.
13. The wave channel of claim 12, wherein a flexible see-through barrier is provided inside said container that extends substantially vertically and longitudinally in a direction that extends from said first end to said second end, wherein a space is provided between said see-through wall and said flexible barrier, such that said barrier substantially prevents errant surfers and boards within said channel from hitting and damaging said see-through wall.
14. The wave channel of claim 13, wherein there are gaps that allow water and wave energy to pass through and/or around said flexible barrier, such that the waves that travel through said channel achieve substantially the same height on both sides of said barrier.
15. The wave channel of claim 14, wherein said flexible barrier is made of a clear plastic material and pulled tight between upper and lower support members extending substantially longitudinally within said channel.
16. The wave channel of claim 12, wherein said cavity extends downstream from said inclined floor and has a divider wall extending to a height that is about the static water level of the body of water, wherein an overflow area is provided further downstream from said divider wall, and wherein a pump is provided to circulate water from said overflow area and into said cavity.
17. The wave channel of claim 12, wherein a second wave dampening system is provided above the wave generator at said first end, wherein an overflow area and wall are provided to reduce the wave energy and wake effects that rebound from said second end.
18. The wave channel of claim 12, wherein a walkway is provided above the side wall opposite said see-through wall at a height that is at or slightly above the anticipated maximum height of the waves formed within said container.
19. The wave channel of claim 18, wherein the waves traveling within said channel cannot extend any higher than the height of said walkway without the top of the waves spilling over and onto said walkway.
20. A system for enabling surfing waves to be created in a channel comprising: a container with a body of water therein having a wave generator located at a first end for generating waves that travel through the body of water from said first end to a second end, opposite said first end; two longitudinally extended side walls on either side of said channel for containing the body of water, and a floor extending from said first end to said second end; a see-through wall that extends substantially longitudinally along at least one of said side walls, wherein a portion of said see-through wall extends below the static water level of the body of water, and a portion of said see-through wall extends above the static water level of the body of water, such that viewers around the container can see into the container above and below the static water level; and wherein a flexible barrier is provided inside said container that extends substantially vertically and longitudinally in a direction that extends from said first end to said second end, wherein a space is provided between said see-through wall and said flexible barrier, such that said barrier substantially prevents errant surfers and boards within said channel from hitting said see-through wall and causing damage thereto.
PCT/US2008/012759 2007-11-13 2008-11-13 Training method and apparatus for surfing using solitary wave channel Ceased WO2009064446A1 (en)

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US288507P 2007-11-13 2007-11-13
US61/002,885 2007-11-13

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6336771B1 (en) * 1996-10-08 2002-01-08 Kenneth D. Hill Rotatable wave-forming apparatus
US20020056157A1 (en) * 2000-11-16 2002-05-16 Lochtefeld Thomas J. Method and apparatus for controlling break points and reducing rip currents in wave pools

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6336771B1 (en) * 1996-10-08 2002-01-08 Kenneth D. Hill Rotatable wave-forming apparatus
US20020056157A1 (en) * 2000-11-16 2002-05-16 Lochtefeld Thomas J. Method and apparatus for controlling break points and reducing rip currents in wave pools

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