WO2004071480A1 - Use of an extract from mycorrhiza fungi - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of an extract on the basis of mycorrhiza fungi in the production of cosmetic agents and to cosmetic preparations that contain an extract from mycorrhiza fungi. The extract from mycorrhiza fungi is suitable for use in the care of sensitive skin and has excellent cosmetic properties, it serves for example to protect the skin from aging and has a positive cell-protecting influence on oxidative stress, harmful environmental pollutants and damages caused by UV radiation.

Description

 Use of an extract from mycorrhizal mushrooms

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. Your goal is to use an extract of mycorrhizal mushrooms. The invention further relates to cosmetic preparations which contain such an extract.

State of the art

Mushrooms are generally known as valuable suppliers of active ingredients for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Saprophytes or pathogenic plant parasites such as, for example, Grifola frondosa or Lentinus edodes are often used in cosmetics, since they are simply cultivated zμ and can be obtained to a sufficient extent with minimal resources.

Mycorrhiza fungi, in particular ectomycorrhiza fungi, enter into a mutually beneficial symbiosis with host plants. They belong to the Basidiomycotina or Ascomycotina (truffle).

In forests of the temperate and northern latitudes, up to 95% of the short tree and shrub roots are covered with ectomycorrhiza fungi. They have a positive impact on plant growth in natural and forestry or agricultural ecosystems.

An essential factor of the symbiosis is the mutual exchange of nutrients among the symbionts. The fungi receive carbohydrates from their host plants and, in exchange, regulate the absorption of the hosts by water and nutrients such as phosphates and amino acids. This symbiosis is necessary for the life cycle of the mushrooms.

Japanese document JP 09227333 discloses cosmetic compositions with extracts from Basidiomycetes of the Boletaceae family, which have a skin-beautifying and moisturizing effect.

In addition to the moisturizing properties, skin-caring, aging-protecting, or revitalizing properties are being investigated for other families of related families. The composition of a later product should also have optimal dermatological compatibility, so that even sensitive consumers do not react with irritation. In addition, however, the agents should also perform other functions which simultaneously affect the technical properties of the cosmetic product, such as storage stability, light stability and formulability positively influence or at least not deteriorate.

The complex task of the present patent application was to find new effects of already known fungi or related species and to enable the use of these extracts in cosmetic products which are also well tolerated for sensitive skin and also have good physico-chemical properties Have stability.

Description of the invention

The present invention relates to the use of an extract from mycorrhiza fungi for the production of cosmetic preparations for topical use on the skin, scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes.

Another object of the invention are cosmetic preparations containing an extract of the mycorrhizal fungi.

In a special embodiment of the present invention, the mycorrhiza fungi are ectomycorrhiza fungi. The fungus Laccaria laccata is particularly preferred. In particular, the use of an aqueous extract from Laccaria laccata is a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

It has surprisingly been found that the extracts of mycorrhizal fungi when used locally on the skin, the scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes produce particular biological effects and have a very good tolerance. The use of at least one fraction extracted from mycorrhizal fungi as an active ingredient, alone or in conjunction with at least one other active ingredient, in a composition or a cosmetic product when used locally on the skin, scalp, epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes shows regenerative effects , Anti-irritant effects, anti-aging effects, UV protection, anti-protease activity, anti-alpha-5-reductase activity, protective effect against oxidative stress and anti-inflammatory activities, as well as lipolytic activity on human fat cells.

The extracts of mycorrhizal mushrooms are particularly suitable for the preventive and healing treatment of sensitive skin types and as a sunscreen. Mycorrhizal mushroom extracts work on the scalp against alopecia. They are well tolerated. The invention therefore relates to the use of extracts of the mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for sensitive skin.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic and / or dermatological agents with UV protection.

Sunscreens or UV light protection factors in the sense of the invention are light protection agents which are useful for protecting human skin against the damaging effects of direct and indirect radiation from the sun. The sun's ulfraviolet radiation, which is responsible for tanning the skin, is divided into UV-C (wavelengths 200-280 µm), UV-B (280-315 nm) and UV-A (315-400 nm).

The pigmentation of normal skin under the influence of solar radiation, i.e. the formation of melanins is caused differently by UV-B and UV-A. Irradiation with UV-A rays ("long-wave UV") results in the darkening of the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis, without any harmful effects being recognizable. This is different with the so-called "short-wave UV" (UV-B). This causes the development of so-called late pigment through the formation of new melanin grains. However, before the (protective) pigment is formed, the skin is exposed to the unfiltered radiation, which - depending on the duration of exposure - can lead to the formation of reddened skin (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) and even burn blisters.

The extracts of mycorrhiza fungi according to the invention are additionally used in combination with other sunscreens or UV light protection factors as UV absorbers or light filters (light protection factors), which convert the UV radiation into harmless heat, in order to achieve a synergistic effect.

UV protection factors

The other UV light protection factors used in addition to the mushroom extracts are, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isocyanate ester 2-cyano-3,3- 2-ethylhexyl phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

> Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy) -l, 3 ₅ 5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone ( Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-l, 3-dione, e.g. l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoyhanethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4, are particularly suitable as typical UVA filters '- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described for example in DE 19712033 AI (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized available. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in agents for the preventive or curative treatment of signs of aging of the skin, scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes. Another name for this type of care product is anti-aging. These signs of aging include any type of wrinkles and wrinkles. Treatments include slowing skin aging. The signs of aging can have a variety of causes. In particular, these signs of aging are caused by damage to the skin induced by UV radiation. In a special embodiment of the invention, these care products are used to treat signs of aging in the skin induced by UV radiation.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic products with anti-protease activity, in particular with anti-collagenase and / or anti-elastase activity. These proteases (collagenase and the different elastases) catalyze the fragmentation and destruction of the dermal macromolecules such as proteoglycan, collagen and elastin and thus lead to aging of the skin and to the effects of natural skin aging after UV radiation.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of the mycorrhiza fungi as a cosmetic anti-inflammatory agent. In the context of the invention, anti-inflammatory agents are to be understood as the type of care products which can cure inflammation of the skin or which can prevent inflammation. The inflammation can have a variety of causes. In particular, inflammation can be treated which is caused by UV radiation, skin impurities or bacterial or hormonal skin changes, e.g. B. Acne can be induced.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhiza fungi in protective and restorative care products for stimulating the metabolism of the skin cells with revitalizing, regenerating, moisturizing and / or reactivating Activities for the skin, scalp, epithelial appendages and / or mucous membranes.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhiza fungi in cell-protecting agents to strengthen the immune defense of the skin. This type of use of these care products has a positive effect, for example, against the negative influence of environmental pollution on the skin and / or hair, against environmental toxins or oxidative stress, by reactivating the natural functions of the skin and / or hair and making the skin and / or hair more resistant and thus strengthen the immune system.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic products to stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules selected from the group consisting of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycans, hyaluronic acid and their salts.

Dermal macromolecules

In the sense of the invention, dermal macromolecules are understood in principle to be all macromolecules which are found as components of the skin either in the basement membrane between Dennis and the epidermis or in the Dennis and epidermis. In particular, they are compounds selected from the group consisting of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, fibronectins and hyaluronic acid and their salts. Collagen consists of protein fibers and occurs in human skin in three different types (Type I, ITf and IV). In collagen, the individual polypeptide chains, each with a large amount of the amino acid proline and as every third residue glycine, are wound around each other to form a triple helix. The collagen fibers are synthesized as tropocol saws in the fibroblasts and discharged into the extracellular matrix. The stimulation of the synthesis of collagen according to the invention leads to an increase in the production of collagen and thus to an increased intermolecular solidification of the Dennis and thus to a skin which appears firmer. The elastin is also a fibrous protein. These are unstructured covalently cross-linked polypeptide chains that form a rubber-like elastic material. After synthesis, the elastin is released into the extracellular matrix in the skin cells. The stimulation according to the invention of the synthesis of the elastin polypeptide chains leads to an increase in the production of elastin and thus to an increase in the elasticity of the skin. Like glycoproteins, proteoglycans consist of carbohydrates and proteins, but the proportion of polysaccharides predominates in proteoglycans. The skin's proteoglycans contain dermatan sulfate. Approx. 140 such proteoglycans with the help of smaller proteins (link proteins) accumulate non-covalently on a hyaluronic acid chain to form molecular aggregates with an average molecular weight of approx. 2 million. The polyanionic aggregates, which are characterized by their water-binding capacity, can form solid gels that give the supporting tissue (extracellular matrix) elasticity and tensile strength. They protect the epithelia in mucus. The stimulation of the synthesis of proteoglycans and hyaluronic acid according to the invention leads to a larger amount of extracellular matrix and thus to an increased elasticity and tensile strength.

Fibronectin is a group of high-molecular glycoproteins (MR of the dimer approx. 440000-550000) that are found in the extracellular matrix and in extracellular fluids. The fibronectin dimer, connected by two disulfide bridges, an elongated molecule with the dimensions 600x25 Å, binds by linear combination of three different repeating domains and the like. a. Collagens, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, fibrin (above), deoxyribonucleic acids, immunoglobulins, plasminogen, plasminogen activator, thrombospondin, cells and microorganisms. Through these properties, it conveys z. B. the adherence of connective tissue cells to collagen fibrils or of thrombocytes and fibroblasts to fibrin (contribution to wound healing).

Hyaluronic acid is an acidic glycosaminoglycan, the basic building block of hyaluronic acid is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine in a (beta l-3) glycosidic bond, which is glycosidic with the next unit (beta l-4) connected is.

The extracts according to the invention can furthermore be used in cosmetic compositions for reducing the proteolysis and glycation of macromolecules in the skin. Proteolysis is a process in which proteins are cleaved by hydrolysis of the peptide bonds using acids or enzymes. Another name for proteilysis is proteinase digestion. The reduction in proteolysis according to the invention leads to a reduced cleavage of the dermal macromolecules which have a protein structure and thus to prevent the reduction in skin firming and to prevent the degradation of increased elasticity. Glycation is a non-enzymatic reaction of glucose or other sugars with proteins to form glycoproteins. This reaction leads to unintentional changes to the collagen and elastin and thus to changes in the extracellular matrix. The function of the collagen and the extracellular matrix are disturbed. The prevention of glycation according to the invention leads to a reduction in the non-enzymatic change in collagen and elastin and thus to a reduction in the function of the extracellular matrix. Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of Myconhiza mushrooms in cosmetic compositions as an active ingredient with lipolytic activity, preferably for use against cellulite.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of Myconhiza mushrooms in cosmetic products to improve wound healing. Improvements in wound healing in the sense of the invention are to be understood as improvements which can support, stimulate and intensify the natural healing process in the event of a pathological change in the skin. A pathological change in the skin can have various causes, one possible cause is an injury.

Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of Myconhiza mushrooms in cosmetic products with anti-alpha-5-reductase activity, preferably an anti-acne activity and / or an anti-Sebonhea activity for skin and / or hair.

The extracts according to the invention can also be used in cosmetic agents against alopecia. The regenerating properties of the extract according to the invention also stimulate the scalp and thereby lead to a positive effect against alopecia, a pathologically caused hair loss.

The extracts according to the invention can furthermore be used in cosmetic compositions as tyrosine inhibitors and / or as skin whitening agents. The skin whitening agents, also known as skin whiteners, lead to a lighter skin appearance. One possibility for skin lightening or whitening is through the inhibition of tyrosinase, because tyrosinase is involved in the formation of the skin pigment melanin (depigmentation). The use of extracts from Myconhiza mushrooms according to the invention leads to a reduced formation of melanin and thus to skin whitening due to the inhibition of tyrosinase. The extracts from Myconhiza mushrooms can additionally be used in combination with other tyrosinase inhibitors as depigmenting agents such as arbutin, fefulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Mycorrhizal fungi

The Myconhiza mushrooms used for the extraction are preferably taken from mushrooms of the genus Laccaria and / or Glomus. Fungi which are selected from the group formed by Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon rubescen, Thelephora terrestris, Lactarius rufus, Laccaria laccata, Laccaria bicolor, Tricholoma albobruneum, Hebeloma cylindrosporumor, and leveroma cromoma are particularly suitable - seae.

Extract of mycorrhizal mushrooms

extraction

The extracts to be used according to the invention are produced by customary extraction methods. Regarding the suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux , which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, which is familiar to a person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, is exemplary of Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin- Heidelberg-New-York 1991). Fresh or dried mushrooms or mushroom components can be used as the starting material, the use of dried mushrooms or mushroom components is preferred, but usually mushrooms or mushroom components are used which are mechanically comminuted before extraction. All the grinding methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, for example crushing with a mortar.

Water, organic solvents or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low-molecular alcohols, hydrocarbons, ketones, esters or halogen-containing hydrocarbons with more or less high water contents (distilled or not distilled), preferably aqueous, alcoholic solutions, can preferably be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions a temperature of greater than or equal to 20 ° C can be used. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, hexane, cyclohexane, pentane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof is particularly preferred. The extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 20 to 85 ° C, in particular either at the boiling point of the solvent used or at room temperature. In a possible Chen embodiment, the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. The extraction times are set by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. After the extraction, the crude fractions obtained can optionally be subjected to further conventional steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients. The extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is usually carried out until exhaustion. Typical yields (= amount of dry matter of the extract based on the amount of raw material used) in the extraction of dried mushrooms or dried mushroom components, if appropriate degreased, are in the range from 1.5 to 25, in particular 1.9 to 20.3,% by weight. The present invention includes the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected depending on the desired field of use. If desired, the extracts can then be subjected to spray or freeze drying, for example.

The amount of mushroom extracts used in the preparations mentioned depends on the type of application of the extracts and on the concentration of the individual ingredients. The total amount of the mushroom extract contained in the preparations according to the invention is generally 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.03 to 1% by weight, based on the final preparation , with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliaries and additives add up to 100% by weight.

The extracts according to the invention can also be incorporated into or connected to any other applicable cosmetic vector, for example film-forming agents, liposomes, micro and nanocapsules, micro and nanoparticles.

The invention accordingly furthermore relates to cosmetic compositions comprising an extract from Myccorhiza mushrooms in encapsulated form or absorbed on a carrier.

The terms care products, preparations, final preparations and agents are to be equated with the term cosmetic agents in the sense of the invention. Cosmetic products

Cosmetic preparations or agents in the sense of the invention are skin care products. These care products include stimulating, healing and building effects for the skin. Care products within the meaning of the invention are preferably those care products which have a stimulating effect on the skin cells and their functions and also have a constructive effect on the skin and preventive action against environmental influences on the skin. Furthermore, care products are preferably to be understood within the meaning of the invention as those which can either improve or cure various skin diseases with their different effects on the appearance and function of the skin.

The preparations according to the invention have an excellent skin-care effect with high skin tolerance. In addition, they show good stability, in particular against oxidative decomposition of the products.

Commercial application

The extract can be worked into suitable cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, macro, micro and nanocapsules, macro, micro and nanoparticles and other analogous and known forms.

The aforementioned extracts can be used for skin care and hygiene applications (products for the face and body, day or night cosmetics, sunscreen strengthening, regenerating products, anti-wrinkle cosmetics, slimming products, anti-aging agents) in the form of preparations , such as lotions or shampoos, creams, foaming agents, soaps, sticks, gels, hydrogels, spray agents, emulsions, protective agents, repairing, softening, film-forming and photo-protective agents; Products for permanent waves and for coloring hair.

The above-mentioned extracts can be used for the production of cosmetic agents, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments, but primarily products for face and body, day or night cosmetics, sunscreens, strengthening, regenerating products, anti-wrinkle cosmetics, slimming products and agents against aging processes. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers. Ren, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents, solubilizers, hydrotrope) Contain preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of the agents usually being about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate etherates, Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartarate sulfates, product acyl glucosate trate, acyl glucosate trate, acyl glucosate trate, acyl glucosate trate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucate fate based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or especially glucoramide acid vegetable derivatives, fatty acid glucoronic acid protein derivatives, and fatty acid glucoramides Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids ligoglucoside, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols preferably containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, of linear _C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -Cι ₃ - Carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl lerucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, Isostea- rylisostearat, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, nylpalmitat oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, Behenylo leat, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl dentate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear ones and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or Trirner triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Ce fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ - Fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 Hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohol carbonates ₅ such as dicaprylyl carbonates (cetiol ® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical Dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical; Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or

Mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate. Ethylene Oxide

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar nest is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to approximately 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglyce- chloride, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonogiycerid, linolenic säurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremo- noglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable. > Sorbitan esters

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat , Sorbitan sesquitarate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritarate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polyglycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyce ryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid. > Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-AJJcyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylammopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkylmethyl-carboxylate -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one - COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .. particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, that is to say solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, and waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax and sugar ear wax , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol colwaxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. As a special Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpynolidone vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat® (BASF), Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyldiethylroxin (hydroxymethylaminohydroxin) -dimethylaminohydroxin Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from the company Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol. Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether, maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, crosslinked acrylics and their polyols, non-crosslinked acrylic and amidopropyltrimethylammomum chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylicate / tert-butylaminoemyl methacrylate / 2-hyroxroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpynolidone, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acrylate and vinyl acrylate / vinyl acrylate / methylethyl derivatized vinyl methacrylate / dimethylamino-polyol derivative / dimethylamino-cellulose-in-copolymer Question.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.

antioxidants

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, caroline (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinath) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin , Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg- Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine Butylhydroxy toluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide D ismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, Sugar, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Bio active ingredients

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides, To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. Anti-germ agents

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4' -Trichlor-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4 -Chlor-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) -phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol , 3- (4-Chlo henoxy) - 1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 'trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol , Mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixers", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or agreed abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarine lily oil, orange talc oil, orange talc oil, orange glycol oil, orange glycol oil are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

ι Antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients, > Oil components, nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator,

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. A- aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium

Trichlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium-tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum-zirconium-pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpynolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpynolidone, vinylpynolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt Mo, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione Aluminiumpyrithion and / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

Ouellmittel

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.

Insect repellents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Examples of possible tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are arbutin, ferulic acid, kjic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The Polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin; Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoe, Mynhe, Olibanum, Opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are product esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylate propylate, pentylate propylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, allyl glycolate, allyl glycolate, orangelol oil, orangol oil, orangol oil, are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone Mixtures used.

Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI 58000). Lummol can also be contained as luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples

A: Preparation of an aqueous extract of the mushroom Laccaria laccata

0.015 kg of the mushroom Laccaria laccata in powdered form were placed in a beaker together with 0.30 l of distilled water. The mixture was stirred at 60 ° C for one hour. Then the mixture was sonicated for 15 minutes. The solid components were removed by filtration. The filtered solution contained the crude extract. This filtered solution was centrifuged for 15 minutes, filtered through a filter with a pore size of 0.45 μm and then lyophilized.

The yield of the extract was 37.33%.

B: Results of the effectiveness tests

B-l: Regenerating and revitalizing properties

The purpose of the following experiments was to determine the regenerative and revitalizing properties of an aqueous extract of the fungus Laccaria laccata on human fibroblast cultures in vitro.

1. Effect on the growth and metabolism of cultures of human fibroblasts in vitro, regenerating and revitalizing properties

a) Toxicity test and growth test in human fibroblasts

A standard cell culture medix with fetal calf serum (FCS) was inoculated with human fibroblasts. After a incubation period of one day at 37 ° C. in an air atmosphere which contained 5% carbon dioxide, the cell culture medium was replaced by a standard medium which each contained a certain amount of the substance to be tested (see table). After three days of incubation, the number of living cells was determined. This determination was made by determining the Zeil protein content using the Bradford method (Bradford MM A rapid and sensitive method for the quantitation of microgram quantities of protein utilizing the principle of protein-dye binding. Anal. Biochem. (1977), Volume 72, pages 248 to 254). The following table shows the results, expressed in% against the comparison test (cell culture medium without substance to be tested). FCS as a positive substance serves for comparison.

Table 1

b) Effectiveness on the survival rate of human fibroblasts

A standard cell culture with FCS was inoculated with human fibroblasts. After a breeding period of three days, the cells became dormant. The cell culture medium was then exchanged for a medium which in each case contained a specific concentration of the substance to be tested (see table). After three days of incubation, the number of viable cells was determined. This determination was made by determining the content of cellular DNA (by fluorescence test), of ATP, of proteins and of GSH based on the amount of protein.

ATP is an energy-rich compound and is essentially produced by mitochondria. The cells need ATP for the activity of many enzymes that control cell structure, for the ion channels, for nutrient absorption, and for many other biological processes (Vasseur P., Aerts C. Appreciation de la cytotoxicite par la mesure de l'ATP. Jounal francais hydrologie (1982) volume 9, pages 149 to 156). The cellular ATP (adenosine triphosphate) content was determined by an enzymatic method. The cellular protein content was determined using the Bradford method (Bradford MM, A rapid and sensitive method for the quantitation of microgram quantities of protein utilizing the principle of protein-dye binding. Anal. Biochem. (1977) Volume 72, pages 248 to 254).

GSH (glutathione) is a peptide that is produced by the cells to protect themselves against oxidative stress or certain environmental toxins such as mercury or lead. The three Amino acids contained in the reduced form of GSH are linked by specific cytoplasmic enzymes that require ATP. Increasing the concentration of GSH increases the activity of glutathione-S-transferase, a detoxifying enzyme. The GSH content was determined by the Hissin method (Hissin PJ, Hilf R. A fluoromexric method for determination of oxidized and reduced Glutathione in tissus. Analytical Biochemistry (1977) Volume 74, pages 214 to 226).

The results, expressed in% compared to the control experiment (cell culture medium without extract) are summarized in the following table.

Table 2:

Content of DNA, ATP, cellular proteins and GSH / cellular proteins in% compared to the control test (average value from two assays with three measurements each)

c) Evaluation of tests a and b

Up to a concentration of 0.1%, the aqueous extract shows no toxic effects on the growth of human fibroblast cultures in vitro. The aqueous extract stimulated the growth of the fibroblasts and their energy metabolism and their antioxidative metabolism. These results show that the aqueous extract has good potential to stimulate the renewal of skin cells and to increase the potential of the cells to combat oxidative stress and to ward off environmental toxins (e.g. heavy metals such as mercury or lead). For this reason, the aqueous extract is a good candidate as an active ingredient for cosmetic applications to combat skin aging and to protect the skin against environmental stress.

II. slimming effect

a) Ex vivo test on human adipocytes: rate of lipolysis

I

Background:

Lipolysis is the removal of triglycerides stored in adipocytes by the enzyme triglyceride lipase. The triglyceride lipase breaks down the triglycerides into free fatty acids and glycerin. These metabolic products are removed through the bloodstream. The free fatty acids can then be converted into energy by muscle cells. Test protocol: Adipocytes were isolated by the enzymatic digestion of human subcutaneous tissue by the method of Rodbell., [Rodbell M .; Metabolism of isolated fat cells; J. Biol. Chem., 239, 2, 375-380 (1964)]. The extracts or reference substances were dissolved in a defined medium, which was then brought into contact with adipocytes at 37 ° C. for 90 minutes. The content of released glycerol (ie the activity of lipolysis) was determined spectoscropically in the supernatant medium according to the method of Carpene C. et al. (Carpene C. et al.; Discrimination of the adrenergiques a potentialite 2 par l'etude de la lipolyse sur des adipocytes de hamster; J. Pharmacol. (Paris), 12, 2, 219-224 (1981)). Each extract was tested against the reference substances (theophylline and isoprenaline). This test was carried out on two to six different samples of human adipocytes. The results were presented as the average value of the released glycerol as a percentage improvement compared to the control test (the control test corresponds to 0%).

Table 3:

At a concentration of 0.1%, the release of glycerin was moderately activated by the aqueous extract. So the aqueous extract has shown a potential for stimulating lipolysis and thus for a slimming effect.

Claims

1. Use of an extract from Myconhiza mushrooms for the production of cosmetic products, the Myconhiza mushrooms being selected from the group formed by Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon rubescens, Thelephora terresis, Lactarius rufus, Laccaria laccata, Laccaria bicolor, Tricholoma albobruneum, Hebeloma cylindrosporxxm, Hebeloma crusuliniforme and Glomus mosseae. 2. The use according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic products for sensitive skin or for the production of cosmetic products with anti-aging activities or for the production of cosmetic products with anti-protease activity, in particular with anti-collagenase and / or anti-elastase activity or for the production of cosmetic products with revitalizing, regenerating, moisturizing and / or reactivating properties for skin and / or hair or for the production of cosmetic products with cell-protecting or immune-strengthening properties, or for the production of cosmetic products with lipolytic activity, in particular against cellulite or for Manufacture of cosmetic products for improved wound healing 3. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that an extract from Myconhiza mushrooms as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for stimulating the synthesis of dermal macromolecules selected from the group consisting of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycans and their salts, is used. 4. The use according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic agents with anti-alpha-5-reductase activity, in particular anti-acne and anti-Sebonhea activity for skin and / or hair. 5. The use according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic agents against alopecia. 6. The use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the Myconhiza extract is obtained from mushrooms of the genus Laccaria and / or Glomus. 7. A process for producing an extract from Myconhiza mushrooms, the Myconhiza mushrooms being selected from the group formed by Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon rubescens, Thelephora tenestris, Lactarius rufus, Laccaria laccata, Laccaria bicolor, Tricholoma albobruneum, Hebeloma cylindrosporxxm, Hebeloma crusuliniforme and Glomus mosseae, characterized in that with an extracting agent selected from the group consisting of water, low molecular weight laren alcohols, esters, ketones, hydrocarbons and halogenated hydrocarbons, is extracted and optionally subsequently dried. 8. A cosmetic preparation, characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 30% by weight of an extract, which was obtained from Myccorhiza mushrooms, based on the final preparation, the Myconhiza mushrooms being selected from the group formed by Pisolithus tinctorius, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon rubescens, Thelephora tenestris, Lactarius rufus, Laccaria laccata, Laccaria bicolor, Tricholoma albobruneum, Hebeloma cylindrosporum, Hebeloma crusuliniforme and Glomus mosseae. 9. The cosmetic preparation according to claim 14, characterized in that the extract is obtained from mushrooms of the genus Laccaria xxnd / or Glomus. 10. The cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the extract from Myccorhiza mushrooms is present in encapsulated form or absorbed on a carrier.