WO2003022091A1

WO2003022091A1 - Method for making elongated metal elements

Info

Publication number: WO2003022091A1
Application number: PCT/IT2002/000564
Authority: WO
Inventors: Pietro Rancan
Original assignee: RANCANGELO DE RANCAN DARIO E PIETRO SNC
Current assignee: RANCANGELO DE RANCAN DARIO E PIETRO SNC
Priority date: 2001-09-11
Filing date: 2002-09-04
Publication date: 2003-03-20
Anticipated expiration: 2004-03-11
Also published as: ITRM20010548A1; ITRM20010548A0

Abstract

Method for producing elongated elements (40') for jewels, comprising the steps of providing at least two foils (51, 52) of precious metal of different type, joining such foils at respective longitudinal edges thereof in order to make a tubular structure (40) of a desirable cross section, providing a third foil of elongated shape (53) and substantially helically winding it about a support material (60), so as to obtain a composite structure having a cross section of a smaller extension with respect to the cross section of the tubular structure, so that the composite structure may be inserted into said tubular structure, and eliminating said support material by a solvent material (70).

Description

METHOD FORMAKINGELONGATED METAL ELEMENTS

DESCRIPTION The present invention refers to a method for making elongated metal elements for jewels, and especially precious metal elements. In jewel making, there is often the problem of making metal-coated, and especially precious metal-coated elements of elongate shape, like, e.g. necklace chokers, bracelets, earring pendants, etc. Moreover, in order to further enhance the jewel aesthetics, it is often required that said coating be carried out using metals of different type. However, the known methods for making elongated elements of the abovedescribed type entail several drawbacks. Their main drawback lies in that the resulting elongated elements have a remarkable weight, as they provide an inner core consisting of a fabric or chain of metal wire whose weight significantly affects the total weight of the end product, and therefore its cost. These circumstances limit the viable dimensions of the jewels themselves, e.g. the width of chokers made with said elongated elements. Moreover, always due to said weight problems, the associated jewels can prove uncomfortable to wear on.

The technical problem underlying the present invention is to provide a method for making elongated metal elements for jewels overcoming the drawbacks hereto mentioned with reference to the known art.

This problem is solved by a method for making elongated metal elements according to claim 1.

The present invention refers to elongated elements made of any metal, precious or non-precious, suitable for jewel making, like e.g. gold, silver, platinum, steel, titanium, etc.

The present invention entails several relevant advantages. The main advantage lies in that the adoption of a hollow core reduces the total weight of the resulting jewel, entailing a greater wearing-on ease thereof and, above all, an economizing, hi fact, geometry, dimensions and aesthetic and mechanic properties of the elongated element being equal, a smaller quantity of metal is required for its making. Moreover, the reduced weight enables to make a greater variety of jewels, as fewer limits are imposed on their dimensions, cost and wearability. h particular, there can be made necklaces, especially of the so-called "omega" type, having a width remarkably greater with respect to that of the known necklaces. Other advantages, features, and the modes of employ of the present invention will be made apparent in the following detailed description of some embodiments thereof, given by way of a non-limiting example. Reference will be made to the figures of the attached drawings, wherein:

Figures 1 to 9 refer each to a step of a first embodiment of the method of the invention, showing perspective views of the elongated element at the different making steps thereof; Figure 9A is a cross-sectional view of an elongated element made with the method of the invention;

Figure 10 is a perspective view of a necklace made with the method of the invention;

Figures 11A to 11L refer each to a respective alternative configuration of the cross section of the resulting elongated element;

Figure 12 refers to a variant embodiment of the invention, showing a perspective view of the elongated element during the making thereof; and

Figure 13 refers to another variant embodiment of a step of the method of the invention, showing a perspective view of the elongated element during the making thereof.

With initial reference to Figure 1, in a first step of the method of the invention there are provided a first and a second foil of elongated shape, 51 and 52, respectively, made of precious metals. These two foils are of different type, and in particular the one made of yellow gold and the other one of white gold. In general, in the present context, for 'different type' foils there are meant foils made of a different type of material and/or having different machinings. Hence, alternative embodiments could provide the employ of other types of foils, e.g. made the one of glazed metal an the other one of bright metal.

With reference also to Figure 2, in a second step of the method these foils 51 and 52 are joined at respective longitudinal edges thereof, to make a tubular cover structure 40 having a substantially circular cross section. This step can be carried out with a known forming machine.

According to a simplified variant of the method of the invention, the tubular cover structure can be made of a single material and with techniques different from the hereto-illustrated one.

Hence, as it is shown in Figures 3 and 3A, in a third step of drawing the tubular structure 40 is deformed by known drawing means so as to assume a desired cross section, hi the present embodiment, it is provided that the tubular structure 40 assume a squashed section, in particular a substantially eye-shaped section. With reference to Fig. 4, the drawn tubular structure 40 is then sectioned into a plurality of annular elements, each indicated by 43, by a known sectioning machine. hi this case as well, a simplified variant of the method provides that the tubular cover structure be not sectioned into rings, remaining a single body. According to a further variant, the tubular cover structure may be directly provided in form of rings. In another step of the method, schematically shown in Figures 5 and 5 A, there is provided a support material 60, like e.g. brass, Copper, tombac alloy, Aluminium, mild steel or a polymeric material. An elongated shape component, in the present embodiment a thin precious metal foil, also called strip and indicated by 53, is substantially helically wound about said material 60. Preferably, this elongated foil 53 has a thickness comprised in a range of about 0.05 - 1 mm, and even more preferably equal to about 0.08 mm.

It will be understood that in the Figures the support material 60 has been shown schematically, and merely by way of example, as a single elongated structure.

With reference to Figure 6, in a subsequent step of the method the composite structure made of the elongated foil 53 helically wound about the support material 60 is subjected to forming, in order to provide the composite structure itself with a desired cross section of a shape analogous to that of the tubular cover structure 40 and with dimensions slightly smaller than those of the latter.

Variant embodiments may provide different shapes for the cover structure and the composite structure.

The use of the support material 60 provides, during the forming, a structural support to the elongated foil 53, preventing a breaking or an undesirable deforming of the latter.

As it is shown in Fig. 7, the annular elements 43 are then continually inserted onto the entire composite structure abovementioned, so as to be the one adjacent to the other one and to entirely coat the latter. Optionally, this step could be carried out by an automated process. It will be understood that the composite structure keeps the annular elements 43 inserted thereon perfectly aligned thereamong.

Advantageously, the method also provides a step of pressing the annular elements 43 onto the composite structure, which step can be carried out by a suitable mold. This pressing is required in order to reciprocally block the annular elements 43, thereby providing mechanic stability to the end manufact.

As it is shown in Fig. 8, upon ending the insertion of the annular elements 43 onto the composite structure elongated foil 53 - support material 60, the latter is eliminated by a solvent material 70. Of course, the type of solvent material depends on the specific support material used. E.g., when the support material is selected from a group comprising brass, Copper and tombac alloy, the solvent material will comprise nitric acid. When instead the support material comprises Aluminium, the solvent material will comprise caustic soda. Moreover, when the support material comprises mild steel, the solvent material will comprise hydrochloric acid. Lastly, when the former is a polymeric material, the latter will be a solution fluid. Upon eliminating the support material 60, the helically wound elongated foil

53 forms a hollow core of the end elongated element. Hence, altogether at this stage of the machining an elongated element of a desired cross section has been obtained having a tubular hollow structure, and being directly employable as elongated element for jewel making. As it is shown in Fig. 9, in the present embodiment it is anyhow provided that this hollow structure be employed as coating of a core 6 made of precious metal , in particular of gold, thereby obtaining an end elongated element indicated by 40' and shown in Figure 9A. In particular, the core 6 is inserted into the tubular structure and secured at the longitudinal ends thereof. This core 6 provides a certain flexibility and a satisfactory resistance to tensioning to the entire elongated element 40'. The entity of the elastic deformability of the element is set, according to conventional modes, so as to obtain an easy wear on of the resulting jewel and a certain adaptability thereof to the user's physiognomy.

Then, the elongated element 40' can be used to make any one jewel, like e.g. a bracelet, a necklace, an earring pendant, etc. In the case of a bracelet, a conventional-type fastening device applied at the two longitudinal ends of elongated element 40' will suffice.

Moreover, in any step of the above described method, the metal elements, like e.g. the foils 51, 52 and 53 separately, or the tubular cover structure 40 as a whole, can advantageously be subjected to an annealing treatment in order to malleablize the metal structures enhancing the machinability thereof in the subsequent operative steps.

A specific application of the method of the invention lies in the making of double-face jewels, as it will be illustrated hereinafter with reference to the specific case of a necklace, and in particular of a necklace of the so-called omega type.

For said necklace, depicted in Figure 10 and indicated by 1, there can be used two elongated elements of the above described type, in this case indicated by 41 and 42, making a choker portion 2 thereof.

The squashed configuration of the elongated elements 41 and 42 enables the entire choker portion 2 to stably abut onto a user's torso, so as to have each foil 51,

52 form an exposure face of the double-face necklace 1. In fact, by virtue of the making of each elongated element 41, 42 by the two foils 51 and 52, the necklace 1 has two display faces, i.e. two faces apt to be placed in sight, of substantially different appearance, and in particular the one made of yellow gold and the other one of white gold.

In the present embodiment, the necklace 1 further comprises a decorative element 3, interposed between the elongated elements 41 and 42 and connected thereto by respective connecting flanges, 61 and 62, respectively.

With the method of the invention there can be made necklaces, and in general elongated elements for jewels, of a width ranging from 3 to 100 mm and of a reasonable weight. It will be understood that the method of the invention is susceptible of several variant embodiments alternative to the abovedisclosed ones, some of which will be briefly illustrated hereinafter with reference to the sole aspects differentiating them from the abovedescribed ones.

According to a viable variant, prior to the step of forming the tubular cover structure the method can provide a step of surface machining of the outside wall thereof, e.g. in order to obtain decorative engravings thereon.

The method may also be effectively applied to the case of tubular cover structures made by joining more than two foils.

Moreover, as it is shown in Figures 11A to 11L, the step of forming the tubular cover structure and/or the composite structure may provide the cross section of these structures to assume any configuration whatsoever, e.g. substantially oval, circular, rectangular, quadrangular, etc., and to have parallel or slanting sides, as it is illustrated in said Figures 11 A-l 1L.

Furthermore, the inner core of the final elongated element may be made of a non-precious metal, and consist of one or more thread-shaped elements reciprocally side by side or plaited, of a strip of wire mesh, of metal fabric or of chain, etc.

Moreover, according to a further variant, illustrated in Fig. 12, the elongated component that is helically wound about the support material 60 and forms the hollow core of the final product may consist, rather than of a solid-structure foil or strip, of a perforated foil, indicated by 53' in said Figure.

Moreover, said elongated foil, or strip forming the hollow core of the final elongated element may be replaced by a wire of any section whatsoever, e.g. generally round, half-round, oval or curved, or even by a spiral-wound mesh strip, or even by wires or strips plaited about the support material. This latter variant embodiment of the hollow core is illustrated in Fig. 13, in which the latter is indicated by 530.

Alike said thickness of the foil or strip, also the diameter of the optional wires fomring the hollow core preferably ranges from almost 0.05 to about 1 mm, even more preferably being equal to 0.08 mm.

The present invention was hereto described with reference to preferred embodiments thereof. It is understood that there may be other embodiments, afferent to the same inventive kernel, all falling within the protective scope of the appended claims.

Claims

CLAΓMS

1. A method for making elongated metal elements (40') for jewels, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: providing a tubular cover structure (40; 43) having a desired cross section; - providing a composite structure comprising a hollow core (53; 53'; 530) located about a support material (60), said composite structure having a cross section of smaller extension with respect to the cross section of said tubular cover structure; inserting said composite structure into said tubular cover structure; and - eliminating said support material by a solvent material (70).

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein said tubular cover structure comprises a plurality of annular elements (43), and said step of inserting said composite structure (53, 60; 53', 60; 530, 60) into said cover structure provides said annular elements to be inserted onto said composite structure.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a step of making said tubular cover structure (40; 43), that in turn comprises the steps of:

- providing at least two metal foils (51, 52); and

- joining said foils at respective longitudinal edges thereof.

4. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said at least two foils (51, 52) are made of metals of different type.

5. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said at least two foils (51, 52) are made one of yellow gold an the other one of white gold.

6. The method according to claim 4 or 5, wherein said at least two foils (51, 52) are made one of glazed metal and the other one of bright metal.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of forming said tubular cover structure (40; 43) according to a cross section having a substantially squashed shape.

8. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 6, comprising a step of forming said tubular cover structure (40; 43) according to a cross section having a substantially quadrangular shape.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of surface machining of the external wall of said tubular cover structure (40).

10. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of making said composite structure comprising the steps of: - providing an elongated shape component (53; 53'); and

- winding said elongated shape component substantially helically about said support material (60).

11. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 9, comprising a step of making said composite structure comprising the steps of:

- providing an elongated shape component (530); and

- plaiting said elongated shape component about said support material (60).

12. The method according to claim 10 or 11, wherein said elongated shape component (53; 53'; 530) has a thickness smaller than about 1 mm.

13. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said elongated shape component (53; 53'; 530) has a thickness equal to about 0.08 mm.

14. The method according to any one of the claims 10 to 13, wherein said elongated component is a metal foil (53; 53').

15. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said elongated component is a perforated metal foil (53').

16. The method according to any one of the claims 10 to 13, wherein said elongated component is a metal wire (530).

17. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, prior to said step of inserting said composite structure (53, 60; 53', 60; 530, 60) into said tubular cover structure (40; 43), a step of forming said composite structure apt to provide thereto a cross section of a shape analogous to that of said tubular cover structure.

18. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, prior to said step of inserting said composite structure (53, 60; 53', 60; 530, 60) into said tubular cover structure (40; 43), a step of forming said composite structure apt to provide thereto a cross section of substantially squashed shape.

19. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 17, comprising, prior to said step of inserting said composite structure (53, 60; 53', 60; 530, 60) into said tubular cover structure (40; 43), a step of forming said composite structure apt to provide thereto a cross section of substantially quadrangular shape.

20. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a further step of inserting into said hollow core (53; 53'; 530), after said step of eliminating the support material (60), a metal inner core (6).

21. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of annealing said tubular cover structure (40; 43).

22. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a step of annealing said hollow core (53; 53'; 530).

23. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said support material (60) is selected from a group comprising brass, Copper and tombac alloy and said solvent material (70) comprises nitric acid.

24. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 22, wherein said support material (60) comprises Aluminium and said solvent material (70) comprises caustic soda.

25. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 22, wherein said support material (60) comprises mild steel and said solvent material (70) comprises hydrochloric acid.

26. The method according to any one of the claims 1 to 22, wherein said support material (60) is a polymeric material and said solvent material (70) is a solution fluid.

27. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the further step of making with the elongated element (40') obtained the choker (2) of a necklace (1).

28. The method according to the preceding claim, comprising the further step of making with the elongated element (40') obtained the choker (2) of a double-face necklace (1).