WO2003097006A1 - Multifunctional cosmetic cleansing preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing, each time with regard to the total weight of the preparation: a) water in a concentration ranging from 10 to 90 wt. %; b) one or more fatty acids and/or salts thereof in a concentration ranging from 5 to 50 wt. %; c) one or more emulsifiers in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10 wt. %; d) one or more complexing agents in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10 wt. %; e) one or more waxes in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10 wt. %, and; f) talcum powder having a mean particle size less than or equal to 5 µm and in a quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10 wt. %. The inventive preparations also optionally contain additional cosmetic and/or dermatological active substances, auxiliary substances and additives.

Description

 Multifunctional cosmetic cleansing preparation

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing water,

Fatty acids and / or their salts, emulsifiers, complexing agents, waxes,

Talc with an average particle size of less than or equal to 5 μm in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives and their use.

The desire for a clean and well-groomed appearance is as old as mankind. Impure skin and an unkempt hair costume provide an ideal breeding ground and home for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. A clean and healthy appearance also increases the social position of people and the chances of success when choosing a partner. The desire for personal hygiene was steadily increased when liquid cleaning agents with newly developed synthetic surfactants could be formulated in addition to the "classic" soap in the 1960s. Since then bathing and showering have become an integral part of our daily life and of consumers Today there are a variety of products available for cleansing different parts of the body, and the development of new mechanical and electrical wet and dry shaving techniques enables safe and thorough hair removal, making the smooth-shaven face increasingly popular among men.

For wet shaving of the whisker, shaving foams and gels are required that soften the whisker and thus minimize the effort required to cut through it - and thus the unpleasant pulling on the hair shaft. The whiskers are softened by water absorption, which is made possible by increasing the pH of the hair. Wet shaving agents therefore usually contain soaps or fatty acid salts with a pH in the range of 8-10. These soap-containing formulations are generally also suitable for cleaning the skin. Soap-containing cleaning agents and in particular products for wet shaving have a typical skin feel after use. The skin feels dry and rough. This skin feeling, which is also called "squeaky feeling" in the cosmetic professional world, is extremely unpopular with consumers.

In addition, soap-containing cleaning agents are generally not particularly temperature-stable. When heated, the individual components of the preparation are separated again and again, especially when using different fatty acid cuts, due to the different melting and crystallization properties of the different fatty acids and their mixtures.

However, since soaps per se are inexpensive and environmentally friendly surface-active substances, it was the object of the present invention to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop soap-containing cleaning and shaving agents whose skin feel is significantly more pleasant and whose temperature stability is significantly increased.

Surprisingly, the object is achieved by cosmetic preparations comprising a) water in a concentration of 10 to 90% by weight, b) one or more fatty acids and / or their salts in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, c) one or more Emulsifiers in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, d) one or more complexing agents in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, e) one or more waxes in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight %, f) talc with an average particle size of less than or equal to 5 μm in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

Although EP 0101920 describes liquid detergent compositions with polymer particles and (optionally) talc, this document could not point the way to the present invention, since the composition of the formulation cannot be compared with the preparation according to the invention. This also applies to WO 97/09413, which basically has the positive sensory properties of talc in describes soap-containing cosmetic formulations per se, but only for preparations with a composition completely foreign to the invention. JP 04372700 also describes soap-containing cosmetic compositions. In order to be able to formulate the preparations described here, however, expensive surface-active compounds of the sugar type (nonionic surfactants) must be used, the use of which in the preparations according to the invention can be dispensed with. No. 5,534,265 was also unable to point the way to the present invention, since it only describes cleaning gels in which the particle sizes of the talc particles are significantly smaller than the particles used in the preparations according to the invention. Larger particle diameters, however, so that they do not sink onto the packaging base of the preparation, require a correspondingly higher viscosity of the formulation, which can only be achieved with a completely new formulation. Common to all the writings cited here is the fact that the preparations disclosed in them are unsuitable as a means for wet shaving. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention differ from those previously disclosed in that the temperature stability in them can be controlled in a targeted manner by adding talc. It was by no means obvious to a person skilled in the art to come up with the composition according to the invention of a skin cleansing and / or shaving preparation.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain water in a concentration of 10 to 90% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 10 to 70% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention advantageously contain fatty acids whose alkyl groups have 6 to 20 carbon atoms and / or their salts. The use of fatty acids whose alkyl groups have 12 to 18 carbon atoms is preferred. Fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linoleic and behenic acid are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

It is preferred according to the invention to use the fatty acids and / or their salts according to the invention in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 10 to 35% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. The cosmetic preparations also contain emulsifiers according to the invention

Emulsifiers have an amphiphilic structure, so their structure is comparable to that of surfactants. Emulsifiers enable or facilitate the mixing (dispersion) of two or more mutually insoluble phases and at the same time prevent their separation.

At the end of the 1940s, a system was developed that should make it easier to select emulsifiers. A so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) is assigned to each emulsifier, which indicates whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above 11 water-soluble, hydrophilic. The HLB value says something about the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier. From these considerations it can be deduced that the effectiveness of an emulsifier can also be characterized by its HLB value. The following table shows the relationship between the HLB value and the possible area of application:

HLB value area of application

0 to 3 defoamers

3 to 8 W / O emulsifier

7 to 9 wetting agents

8 to 18 O / W emulsifier 12 to 18 solubilizers

The HLB value of an emulsifier can also be composed of increments, whereby the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups from which a molecule is composed can be found in tables. In principle, HLB values can also be determined for detergent surfactants in this way, although the HLB system was originally designed only for emulsifiers. It can be seen that wash-active substances generally have HLB values that are significantly greater than 20.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention preferably contain emulsifiers with an HLB value of 3-18. Preferred emulsifiers are monoglycerides, particularly preferably monoglycerides which are esterified with fatty acids whose alkyl groups have 6 to 20 carbon atoms. Emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are, for example, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl decanoate, glyceryl stearates, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl linoleate and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred according to the invention to use the emulsifiers according to the invention in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

In addition, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention contain complexing agents, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and its anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2- Diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions, organophosphoric acid esters, such as 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (etidronic acid) or aminotris- (methylenephosphonic acid) (ATMP), where 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (etidronic acid) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) can be used with particular preference.

It is preferred according to the invention to use the complexing agents according to the invention in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

All customary long-chain hydrocarbons, such as e.g. Beeswax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, Candelilla Wax, Camauba Wax, Microcrystalline Wax and / or mixtures of these waxes are used, with beeswax being particularly preferred.

It is preferred according to the invention that the waxes according to the invention in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in one Concentration of 0.2 to 5% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the cosmetic preparations can contain cosmetic auxiliaries of the type normally used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments (for example TiO ₂ , ZnO, BaSO), which have a coloring effect. Further auxiliaries according to the invention are thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils or other customary constituents of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-carnosine, D-camosin, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- , Heptathione sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, Ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO) (deren and its derivatives) selenium derivatives and selenium derivatives eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether,

Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates and polysac - charides or their derivatives, for example hyaiuronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.

The cosmetic preparations can be water-insoluble cosmetic auxiliaries and

Contain care substances, as are usually used in such preparations.

The following can advantageously be used: hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, polydecene, polyisobutene, squalane and squalene,

- Vegetable oils, such as almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, Glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), glyceryl tristearate,

long-chain fatty alcohols, such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl and behenyl alcohol,

- esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, hexyl laurate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, decyl, Myristyllaktat, cetyl lactate, Oktylmethoxycinnamat, propylene glycol, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol, Propylenglykoldiisostearat, propylene glycol, sucrose, - silicone oils, rubbers, elastomers and modifications thereof, such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, amine, alkyl, alkylaryl and aryl silicones,

- Lipids of natural origin, such as phospholipids, ceramides, cholesterol and their derivatives, lanolin, lanolin alcohol and their derivatives.

Mixtures of the aforementioned water-insoluble cosmetic auxiliaries and care substances can also be used advantageously. The viscosity of the cosmetic preparations is also of great importance according to the invention. This must be coordinated so that the insoluble particles in the emulsion remain stable in suspension and do not sink to the bottom of the packaging.

The term "viscosity" means the property of a liquid to oppose the mutual laminar displacement of two adjacent layers with resistance (toughness, internal friction). Today, this so-called dynamic viscosity according to η = τ / D is defined as the ratio of the shear stress to the velocity gradient perpendicular to the direction of flow For Newtonian liquids η is a material constant with the Sl unit Pascal second (Pa-s) at a given temperature.

The quotient v = η / p from the dynamic viscosity η and the density p of the liquid is referred to as the kinematic viscosity v and is given in the SI unit m ² / s.

Fluidity (φ) is the reciprocal of viscosity (φ = 1 / η). In the case of ointments and the like, the use value is determined, among other things, by the so-called speed. The speed of an ointment or ointment base or the like means its property of pulling threads of different lengths when tapping; accordingly, a distinction is made between short and long-lasting fabrics.

While the graphical representation of the flow behavior of Newtonian liquids results in a straight line at a given temperature, the so-called non-Newtonian liquids often show considerable deviations depending on the respective speed gradient D (shear rate γ) or the shear stress τ. In these cases the so-called apparent viscosity can be determined, which does not obey Newton's equation, but from which the true viscosity values can be determined by graphic methods.

The viscosity values of the preparations listed in the context of the present document were determined with the aid of a shear stress test with a rheometer of the type SR-2000. For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to preparations which have a viscosity of 10 ² Pas to 10 ^β Pas at a temperature of 25 ° C., in the shear stress range from 40 Pa to 240 Pa.

Preparations according to the invention which have a viscosity of 10 ³ Pas to 10 ⁵ Pas at a temperature of 25 ° C. and in the shear stress range from 40 Pa to 240 Pa are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the use of talcum to increase the temperature stability of cosmetic preparations, the use of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention as a shaving and / or cleaning agent, and the use of the cosmetic preparations as a gel or cream.

^• The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Examples

Claims

claims 1. Cosmetic preparations containing a) water in a concentration of 10 to 90% by weight, b) one or more fatty acids and / or their salts in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, c) one or more emulsifiers in a concentration from 0.1 to 10 weight %, d) one or more complexing agents in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, e) one or more waxes in a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, f) talc with an average particle size of less than or equal to 5 μm in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, in addition to any further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients Auxiliaries and additives. 2. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that fatty acids whose alkyl groups have 6 to 20 carbon atoms and / or their salts are used as fatty acids and / or their salts. 3. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that monoglycerides are used as emulsifiers. 4. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (etidronic acid) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are used as complexing agents. 5. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that bees wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax, candelilla wax, camauba wax, microcrystalline wax and / or mixtures of these waxes are used as waxes. 6. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they have a viscosity of 10 ² Pas to 10 ⁶ Pas at a temperature of 25 ° C, in the shear stress range from 40 Pa to 240 Pa. 7. Cosmetic preparations according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they have a viscosity of 10 ³ Pas to 10 ⁵ Pas at a temperature of 25 ° C, in the shear stress range from 40 Pa to 240 Pa. 8. Use of talc to increase the temperature stability of cosmetic preparations. 9. Use of cosmetic preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a shaving and / or cleaning agent. 10. Use of cosmetic preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a gel or cream.