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WO2001074312A2 - Hair conditioning composition comprising vinylpyrrolidone copolymer - Google Patents

Hair conditioning composition comprising vinylpyrrolidone copolymer Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001074312A2
WO2001074312A2 PCT/US2001/010364 US0110364W WO0174312A2 WO 2001074312 A2 WO2001074312 A2 WO 2001074312A2 US 0110364 W US0110364 W US 0110364W WO 0174312 A2 WO0174312 A2 WO 0174312A2
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Prior art keywords
hair
available
copolymer
hair conditioning
acid
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Ceased
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PCT/US2001/010364
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French (fr)
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WO2001074312A3 (en
Inventor
Michael Albert Snyder
Kumiko Ohtsu
Dorothy Yong Juanico Salvador
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Priority to AU2001251162A priority Critical patent/AU2001251162A1/en
Publication of WO2001074312A2 publication Critical patent/WO2001074312A2/en
Publication of WO2001074312A3 publication Critical patent/WO2001074312A3/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295Liquid crystals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8135Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an acyloxy radical of a saturated carboxylic acid, of carbonic acid or of a haloformic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinyl esters (polyvinylacetate)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising an carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer and vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.
  • the present invention also relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a gel matrix and a vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
  • shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair", or contribute to an undesirable phenomena of "split ends", particularly for long hair.
  • Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave- on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray, and mousse.
  • Products in the form of cream, gel, and mousse are suitable in that the consumer can easily control the amount and distribution of the product. As such, these products are particularly suitable for leave-on products.
  • a common method of providing conditioning benefit to the hair is through the use of hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • Cationic surfactants and polymers, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols are known to enhance hair shine and provide moistness, softness, and static control to the hair.
  • such components can also provide greasy or waxy feeling.
  • Silicone conditioning agents are also known to provide conditioning benefits such as smoothness and combing ease due to the low surface tension of silicone compounds.
  • silicone conditioning agents can cause dry feel or frizzy condition to the hair.
  • these conditioning agents when included in a leave-on product, they may further leave the hands with a tacky, dirty, feeling.
  • hair volume-up is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable.
  • hair volume-up as used herein relates to increase of the bulk of the hair volume. Consumers having fine hair have the desire to achieve hair volume-up while controlling undesirable fly-away of the hair.
  • hair conditioning compositions suitable for leave-on use which provide hair volume-up while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control.
  • Fig. 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System.
  • composition A a hair conditioning composition comprising:
  • composition B a hair conditioning composition comprising:
  • a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water; and (2) a vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide: improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair, and leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling.
  • a transparent hair conditioning composition can be provided.
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention comprises a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer.
  • the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked coplymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate, and nave an amphiphilic property.
  • carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers are obtained by copolymerizing 1) a carboxylic acid monomer such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, or -chloroacrylic acid, 2) a carboxylic ester having an alkyl chain of from 1 to about 30 carbons, and preferably 3) a crosslinking agent of the following formula:
  • R ⁇ 2 is a hydrogen or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbons
  • Y 1 indepedently, is oxygen, CH2O, COO, OCO, js a hydrogen or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbons
  • Y ⁇ is selected from (CH2)m", (CH2CH2 ⁇ ) m " or (CH2CH2CH2 ⁇ ) m " wherein m" is an integer of from 1 to about 30.
  • the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are believed to provide appropriate viscosity and rheology properties to the composition, and to emulsify and stabilize certain conditioning agents in the composition. It is further believed that, because of the alkyl group contained in the copolymer, the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers do not make the composition undesirably sticky.
  • the composition of the present invention preferably comprises the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 2%.
  • the weight of the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is preferably greater than about 0.5 times, more preferably 1.0 times, the weight of the high melting point compound.
  • Suitable carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers having the following formula:
  • R 51 independently, is a hydrogen or an alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons wherein at least one of R 51 is a hydrogen, R 52 is as defined above, n, n', m and m' are integers in which n+n'+m+m' is from about 40 to about 100, n" is an integer of from 1 to about 30, and i is defined so that the copolymer has a molecular weight of about 500,000 to about 3,000,000.
  • carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers useful herein include: CTFA name Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer having tradenames Pemulene TR-1 , Pemulene TR-2, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, and Carbopol ETD 2020, all available from B. F. Goodrich Company.
  • Neutralizing agents may be included to neutralize the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein.
  • neutralizing agents include sodium hydroxide, potssium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tromethamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • VINYLPYRROLIDONE COPOLYMER The compositions (Composition A) of the present invention comprise a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.
  • the Composition B can comprise a vinylpyrrolidone polymer including vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone, preferably, comprises vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
  • the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein are those which comprise monomers other than vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein are believed to provide increase in bulk hair volume while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as fly-away control.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are typically included in the hair styling compositions as a film former or a hair fixative.
  • Non-limiting examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein include polyvinylpyrrolidone/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/polycarbamylpolyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, polyvin
  • the copolymer of pyrrolidone useful herein is a nonionic copolymer in view of better compatibility with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer and less deteriorating conditioning benefits.
  • composition A preferably, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymer are used in the compositions of the present invention, and more preferably, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer is used in the compositions of the present invention in view of better compatibility with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, less deteriorating conditioning benefits, and better hair volume-up benefit.
  • the mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer may be preferably from about 1:9 to about 9:1, more preferably from about 5:5 to about 8:2.
  • the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone useful herein is a water-soluble copolymer in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix.
  • the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone useful herein is a cationic copolymer or a nonionic copolymer in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix and less deteriorating conditioning benefits.
  • preferred vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as Poiyquaternium-11 , quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymer such as Polyquaternium-16, and polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix, less deteriorating conditioning benefits, and volume-up benefit.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyimethacrylate copolymer and quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as Polyquaternium-11.
  • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein include: CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer having tradenames Luviskol VA28E, Luviskol VA37E, Luviskol VA55E, Luviskol VA64E, Luviskol VA73E, Luviskol VA37HM, Luviskol VA64 Powder, Luviskol VA64W, and Luviskol VA73W, ail available from BASF, and PVP ⁇ /A E series, I series, S-630, all available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymer having tradename Luviskol VAP343E available from BASF; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer having tradename Acrylidone LM available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamyl/
  • compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%.
  • AQUEOUS CARRIER AQUEOUS CARRIER
  • compositions of the present invention comprise an aqueous carrier.
  • the level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
  • carriers useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols.
  • Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the aqueous carrier is substantially water.
  • Deionized water is preferably used.
  • Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
  • the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 20% to about 99%, preferably from about 40% to about 98%, and more preferably from about 50% to about 98% water.
  • GEL MATRIX The Composition B of the present invention comprises a gel matrix.
  • the gel matrix is comprised, by weight of the hair conditioning composition, from about 60% to about 99%, preferably from about 70% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 95%.
  • the gel matrix includes a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water.
  • the gel matrix serves as an aqueous carrier for the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, and is typically characterized by a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps, preferably from about 10,000 cps to about 30,000 cps, and more preferably from about 12,000 cps to about 28,000 cps, as measured at 25°C, by means of a Brookfield Viscometer at shear rate of 1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the gel matrix significantly improves deposition of the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer onto hair while providing improved hair conditioning benefits.
  • the gel matrix is a lamellar gel matrix, which provides improved deposition, wet hair feel, softness, and other substantial benefits.
  • the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is from about 1 :1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 1 :2 to about 1 :10, and more preferably form about 1 :3 to 1 :5.
  • the preferred cationic surfactants in the lamellar gel matrix contain one or two long chain (e.g., * ⁇ 2-3 o) alkyl groups, and a tertiary or quaternary amine group. Tertiary amine groups having one or two C 16 . 22 alkyl chains are preferred.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimetry
  • a profile chart obtained by DSC measurement describes chemical and physical changes of the scanned sample that involve an enthalpy change or energy gradient when the temperature of the sample is fluctuated.
  • DSC measurement of compositions of the present invention may be conducted by any suitable instrument available.
  • DSC measurement may be suitably conducted by Seiko DSC 6000 instrument available from Seiko Instruments Inc.
  • a sample is prepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into a container made for DSC measurement and sealed. The weight of the sample is recorded.
  • a blank sample i.e.; an unsealed sample of the same container is also prepared.
  • the sample and blank sample are placed inside the instrument, and run under a measurement condition of from about -50°C to about 130°C at a heating rate of from about 1°C/minute to about 10°C/minute.
  • the area of the peaks as identified are calculated and divided by the weight of the sample to obtain the enthalpy change in mJ/mg.
  • the DSC profile shows a formation peak of larger than about 3 mJ/mg. The position of the peaks are identified by the peak top position.
  • the DSC profile of the preferred lamellar gel matrix shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of from about 55°C to about 75°C, and from about 6 mJ/mg to about 10 mJ/mg.
  • the preferred DSC profile of the lamellar gel matrix shows no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40°C to 55°C. It is believed that a composition formed predominantly with such a gel matrix shows a relatively stable phase behavior during the temperature range of from about 40°C to about 55°C.
  • the DSC profile shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of between about 60°C and 70°C, at about 8 mJ/mg, and no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40°C to about 55°C.
  • the gel matrix may become unstable or, at worst, become destroyed in the presence of certain components.
  • Such components include high levels of anionic surfactants and film-forming polymers having anionic moieties.
  • a highly preferred composition is substantially free of such components.
  • the high melting point compound useful herein have a melting point of at least about 25°C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature.
  • certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing.
  • the high melting point compound is preferably included in the composition
  • composition B at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, still preferably from about 1 % to about 10%.
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e.
  • Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol.
  • High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
  • Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred.
  • pure herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%.
  • high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1- DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko.
  • Composition B while poly fatty alcohols may form the gel matrix, mono fatty alcohols are preferred. Either the cationic surfactants and/or the high melting point compound may be mixed with, suspended in, and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel matrix.
  • Cationic Surfactant may be mixed with, suspended in, and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel matrix.
  • cationic surfactants useful herein are those corresponding to the general formula (I):
  • R 7 ⁇ R 72 , R 73 and R 74 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is when R 71 , R 72 , R 73 and R 74 are independently selected from C 1 to about C 22 alkyl.
  • Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quatemium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quatemium-18 methosulfate, quatemium-24, and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactants of general formula (I) preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons.
  • preferred cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benz
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the R 71 -R 74 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C C 3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C 1 -C 3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof.
  • the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.
  • Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VIII) below:
  • n 1 is from 8 to about 28, m 1 +m 2 is from 2 to about 40, Z 1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH 2 CH 2 O) m3 H wherein m 1 +m 2 +m 3 is up to 60, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • n 2 is 1 to 5
  • R 75 , R 76 , and R 77 are independently an C 1 -C 30 alkyl
  • the remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH
  • one or two of R 78 , R 79 , and R 80 are independently an C ⁇ C ⁇ alkyl
  • remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH
  • X is a salt forming anio
  • Z 2 is an alkyl, preferably C.-C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl
  • n 3 and n 4 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2
  • R 81 and R 82 independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C 12 -C 20 alkyl or alkenyl
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R 83 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C 1 -C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 4 and Z 5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C 2 -C 4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl
  • m 4 is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R 84 and R 85 are C--C 3 alkyl, preferably methyl
  • Z 6 is a C 12 -C 22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido
  • A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quatemium-52, quaternium-53, quatemium-56, quaternium-60, quatemium-61 , quaternium-62, quatemium-70, quatemium-71 , quatemium-72, quatemium-75, quatemium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium- 79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT K1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD 0/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel, and ATLAS G265
  • Amines are suitable as cationic surfactants.
  • Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropy
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenyiamine.
  • Useful amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al.
  • amines can also be used in combination with acids such as £- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ⁇ -glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably -glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
  • the amines herein are preferably partially neutralized with any of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 0.4 to about 1 : 1.
  • the cationic surfactant is preferably included in the composition (Composition B) at a level by weight of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, still preferably from about 0.25% to about 3%.
  • the gel matrix comprise water.
  • Deionized water is preferably used.
  • Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
  • the compositions of the present invention comprise at least about 60%, preferably at least about 70% water, and more preferably from about 75% to about 95% water.
  • Deionized water is preferably used.
  • Water from natural sources including mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
  • SILICONE COMPOUND Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain a silicone compound.
  • the silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.
  • insoluble is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.
  • the silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization.
  • the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone compounds herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.1% to about 40%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%.
  • silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968.
  • silicone gums will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone resins which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems.
  • the crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin.
  • the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin.
  • silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
  • the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material.
  • Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
  • the ratio of oxyge silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0.
  • Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized.
  • Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267.
  • silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid.
  • the silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
  • silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones. The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can be found in
  • Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 05 ; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH 3 ) 2 SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH 3 )Si0 1 5 ; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit Si02.
  • Primes of the unit symbols denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc.
  • the molar ratios of the various units either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
  • the silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins.
  • the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
  • MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
  • silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following
  • R 93 is alkyl or aryl
  • x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
  • Z 8 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains.
  • the alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R 93 ) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z 8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair.
  • Suitable Z 8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy.
  • the two R 93 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups.
  • the two R 93 groups represent the same group.
  • Suitable R 93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl.
  • the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
  • the polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil®, SF 96 series, and TSF 451 , and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.
  • Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
  • highly arylated silicone compounds such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher.
  • a spreading agent such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
  • the silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used.
  • the ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
  • Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II)
  • R 94 is H, CH 3 or OH, p 1 , p 2 , q and q 2 are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000.
  • This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".
  • Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III) (R 97 ) a G 3 - a -Si-(OSiG 2 ) p3 -(OSiG b (R 97 ) 2-b ) p4 -0-SiG 3 .
  • R 97 is a monovalent radical of formula C q3 H 2q3 L in which q 3 is an integer from 2 to 8 and L is chosen from the groups — N(R 96 )CH 2 — CH 2 — N(R 96 ) 2
  • R 96 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.
  • An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula (II) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" wherein R 94 is CH 3 .
  • Other amino substituted silicone polymers which can be used are represented by the formula (V):
  • R 98 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl
  • R 99 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C,-C 18 alkylene radical or a 0,-0, 8 , and more preferably C C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical
  • Q " is a halide ion, preferably chloride
  • p 5 denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8
  • p 6 denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50.
  • a preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56.”
  • the silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25°C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000.
  • the viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
  • Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization.
  • Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
  • Particularly suitable silicone compounds herein are non-volatile silicone oils having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 600,000 such as Dimethicone, and Dimethiconol. These silicone compounds can be incorporated in the composition as silicone oils solutions; the silicone oils being volatile or nonvolatile.
  • silicone compounds which are useful herein include Dimethicone with tradename DC345 available from Dow Corning Corporation, Dimethicone Fluid with tradename TSF 451 available from General Electric, Dimethicone gum solutions with tradenames SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 available from General Electric, Dimethiconol with tradenames DCQ2- 1403 and DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning Corporation, Mixture of Dimethicone and Dimethiconol with tradename DC1403 available from Dow Corning Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone as described in GB application 2,303,857.
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain an amphoteric conditioning polymer.
  • the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein are those compatible with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers and which provide conditioning benefit to the hair. Although some of the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein may have some hair holding or hair fixative properties, such hair holding or hair fixative properties are not a requirement for the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein.
  • the amphoteric conditioning polymers useful herein are those including at least one cationic monomer and at least one anionic monomer; the cationic monomer being quaternary ammonium, preferably dialkyl diallyl ammonium chloride or carboxylamidoalkyl trialkyl ammonium chloride; and the anionic monomer being carboxylic acid.
  • the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein may include nonionic monomers such as acrylamine, methacrylate, or ethacrylate. Further, the amphoteric conditioning polymers useful herein do not contain betanized monomers.
  • composition of the present invention preferably comprises the amphoteric conditioning polymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%.
  • polymers with the CTFA name Polyquaternium 22, Polyquatemium 39, and Polyquaternium 47 are, for example, copolymers consisting of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid, terpolymers consisting of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, and terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate such as those of the following formula wherein the ratio of n 6 :n 7 :n 8 is 45:45:10:
  • amphoteric conditioning polymers herein include Polyquaternium 22 with tradenames MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295, Polyquaternium 39 with tradenames MERQUAT PLUS 3330, MERQUAT PLUS 3331 , and Polyquaternium 47 with tradenames MERQUAT 2001 , MERQUAT 2001 N, all available from Calgon Corporation.
  • polymers resulting from the copolymerisation of a vinyl monomer carrying at least one carboxyl group such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, or alphachloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer which is a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic nitrogen atom, such as dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and acrylamides.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are most particularly preferred are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, especially N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert.-butylacrylamide, N-tert.- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide and also the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from amongst acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids and also the alkyl monoesters of maleic acid or fumaric acid in which alkyl has 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain a humectant.
  • the humectants herein are selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the humectants herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
  • Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1, 2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sultate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosin phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
  • Water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.
  • humectants herein include: glycerin with tradenames STAR and SUPEROL available from The Procter & Gamble Company, CRODEROL GA7000 available from Croda Universal Ltd., PRECERIN series available from Unichema, and a same tradename as the chemical name available from NOF; propylene glycol with tradename LEXOL PG-865/855 available from Inolex, 1 ,2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP available from BASF; sorbitol with tradenames LIPONIC series available from Lipo, SORBO, ALEX, A- 625, and A-641 available from ICI, and UNISWEET 70, UNISWEET CONG available from UPI; dipropylene glycol with the same tradename available from BASF; diglycerin with tradename DIGLYCEROL available from Solvay GmbH; xylitol with the same tradename available from Kyowa and Eizai; maltitol with tradename MALBIT available from Hayashibara
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain an additional viscosity modifier.
  • the additional viscosity modifiers herein are water soluble or water miscible polymers, have the ability to increase the viscosity of the composition, and are compatible with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers.
  • the additional viscosity modifier is selected so that the composition of the present composition has a suitable viscosity, preferably from about 1 ,000 cps to about 100,000 cps, more preferably from about 2,000 cps to about 50,000cps. If such a viscosity is achieved without the additional viscosity modifier, the additional viscosity modifier may not be necessary.
  • the viscosity herein can be suitably measured by Brookfield RVT at 20rpm at 20°C using either spindle #4, 5, 6 or 7 depending on the viscosity and the characteristic of the composition.
  • the additional viscosity modifiers herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.001 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%. Additional viscosity modifiers useful herein include anionic polymers and nonionic polymers.
  • vinyl polymers such as cross linked acrylic acid polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer, cellulose derivatives and modified cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabia gum, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carragheenin, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algae colloids (algae extract), microbiological polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pulleran, starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxy
  • Polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight of more than about 1000 are useful herein. Useful are those having the following general formula: wherein R 95 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof. When R 95 is H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols. When R 95 is methyl, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene glycols. When R 95 is methyl, it is also understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers can exist.
  • x3 has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000.
  • Other useful polymers include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene- polypropylene glycols, or polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer polymers,.
  • Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R 95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR ® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein R 95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR ® N-35 and Polyox WSR ® N-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein R 95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR ® N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein R 95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR ® N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M wherein R 95 equals
  • Additional viscosity modifiers highly useful herein include Carbomers with tradenames Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981 , all available from B. F.
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention may further contain a visible particle.
  • a visible particle is a particle which can be distinctively detected as an individual particle by the naked eye when comprised in the present composition, and which is stable in the present composition.
  • the visible particle can be of any size, shape, or color, according to the desired characteristic of the product, so long as it is distinctively detected as an individual particle by the naked eye.
  • the visible particle has an average diameter of from about 50 ⁇ m to about 3000 ⁇ m, preferably from about 100 ⁇ m to about 1000 ⁇ m, more preferably from about 300 ⁇ m to about 1000 ⁇ m.
  • stable it is meant that the visible particles are not disintegrated, agglomerated, or separated under normal shelf conditions.
  • the composition is substantially transparent.
  • the visible particles provide a highly suitable aesthetic benefit. What is generally meant by transparent, is that a black substance having the size of a 1cm X 1cm suqare can be detected by the naked eye through 1cm thickness of the present composition.
  • the visible particles herein are used at levels of from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the visible particle herein comprises a structural material and preferably an encompassed material.
  • the structural material provides a certain strength to the visible particle so that they retain their distinctively detectable structure in the present composition under normal shelf conditions.
  • the structural material further can be broken and disintegrated with very little shear on the hand with the fingers upon use.
  • Visible particles useful herein include capsules, shelled particles, beads, pellets, droplets, pills, caplets, tablets, grains, flakes, powders and granules.
  • the visible particles can be solid or liquid, filled or un-filled, so long as they are stable in the present composition.
  • the structural material used for making the visible particles varies depending on the compatibility with other components, as well as material, if any, to be encompassed in the visible particles.
  • Exemplary materials for making the visible particles herein include: polysaccharide and saccharide derivatives such as crystalline cellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate phthalate, cellulose nitrate, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalate, methyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, gum acacia (gum arabic), agar, agarose, maltodextrin, sodium alginate, calcium alginate, dextran, starch, galactose, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, chitin, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, laminaran, lichenan, curdlan, inulin, levan, pectin, mannan, xylan, alginic acid, arabic acid, glucommannan, agarose, agaropectin, prophyran, car
  • Highly preferable structural material herein comprises components selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and their derivatives, saccharides and their derivatives, oligosaccharides, monosaccharides, and mixtures thereof, still preferably, components from the above mentioned group wherein components having various water solubility are selected.
  • the structural material is made of components selected from the group consisting of cellulose, cellulose derivatives, saccharides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the visible particle herein may encompass, contain, or be filled with an encompassed material.
  • encompassed material can be water soluble or water insoluble, and comprise components such as: vitamins, amino acids, proteins and protein derivatives, herbal extracts, pigments, dyes, antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, UV absorbers, optical brighteners, silicone compounds, perfumes, humectants which are generally water soluble, additional conditioning agents which are generally water insoluble, and mixtures thereof.
  • water soluble components are preferred encompassed material.
  • components selected from the group consisting of vitamins, amino acids, proteins, protein derivatives, herbal extracts, and mixtures thereof are preferred encompassed material.
  • components selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, Polygonum multiflori extracts, and mixtures thereof are preferred encompassed material.
  • Vitamins and amino acids useful as encompassed material herein include: water soluble vitamins such as vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, C, pantothenic acid, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, biotin, and their derivatives, water soluble amino acids such as asparagine, alanin, indole, glutamic acid and their salts, water insoluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E, and their derivatives, water insoluble amino acids such as tyrosine , tryptamine, and their salts.
  • water soluble vitamins such as vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, C, pantothenic acid, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, biotin, and their derivatives
  • water soluble amino acids such as asparagine, alanin, indole, glutamic acid and their salts
  • water insoluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E, and their derivatives
  • water insoluble amino acids such
  • Pigments useful as encompassed material herein include inorganic, nitroso, monoazo, disazo, carotenoid, triphenyl methan, triaryl methane, xanthene, quinoline, oxazine, azine, anthraquinone, indigoid, thionindigoid, quinacridone, phthalocianine, botanical, natural colors, including: water soluble components such as those having C. I.
  • Antimicrobial agents useful as encompassed material include those useful as cosmetic biocides and antidandruff agents including: water soluble components such as piroctone olamine, water insoluble components such as 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban and zinc pyrithione.
  • Chelating agents useful as encompassed material include: 2,2'- dipyridylamine; 1 ,10-phenanthroline ⁇ o-phenanthroline ⁇ ; di-2-pyridyl ketone; 2,3- bis(2-pyridyl) pyrazine; 2,3-bis(2-pyridyl)-5,6-dihydropyrazine; 1 ,1'- carbonyldiimidazole; 2,4-bis(5,6-diphenyl-1 ,2,4-triazine-3-yl)pyridine; 2,4,6-tri(2- pyridyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine; 4,4'-dimethyl-2,2'dipyridyl; 2,2'-biquinoline; di-2-pyridyl glyoxal ⁇ 2,2'-pyridil ⁇ ; 2-(2-pyridyl)benzimidazole; 2,2'-bipyrazine; 3-(2-pyridyl
  • Useful silicone compounds, humectants, additional conditioning agents, UV absorbers, optical brighteners, and herbal extracts for encompassed material are the same as those exemplified in other portions of the specification.
  • the components herein, however, are substantially retained within the breakable visible particles, and are substantially not dissolved in the bulk of the present composition under normal shelf conditions.
  • Unisphere and Unicerin particles are made of microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, lactose, vitamins, pigments, and proteins. Upon use, the Unisphere and Unicerin particles can be disintegrated with very little shear on the hand with the fingers with practically no resistance, and readily dissolve in the composition. UV ABSORBER
  • compositions of the present invention may further contain a UV (ultraviolet) absorber.
  • UV absorbers are particularly useful for compositions of the present invention which are substantially transparent.
  • the UV absorbers herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 10%.
  • UV absorbers useful herein can be water soluble or water insoluble, including: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anhranilates (i.e., o- aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, -phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate; trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and
  • Preferred sunscreens useful in the compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the present invention may further contain herbal extracts.
  • Herbal extracts useful herein include those which are water soluble and those which are water insoluble.
  • Useful herbal extracts herein include: Polygonum multiflori Extract, Houttuynia cordate extract, Phellodendron Bark extract, melilot extract, white dead nettle extract, licorice root extract, herbaceous peony extract, soapwort extract, dishcloth gourd extract, cinchona extract, creeping saxifrage extract, Sophora angustifolia extract, candock extract, common fennel extract, primrose extract, rose extract, Rehmannia glutinosa extract, lemon extract, shikon extract, alloe extract, iris bulb extract, eucalyptus extract, field horsetail extract, sage extract, thyme extract, tea extract, laver extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, raspberry extract, melissa extract, ginseng extract, carrot extract, horse chestnut extract, peach extract, peach
  • the Composition B of the present invention further comprises a polypropylene glycol. It is believed that polypropylene glycol, together with the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, can provide hair volume-up with improved fly-away control.
  • the polypropylene glycol can be included in the Composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the polypropylene glycol can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the polypropylene glycol useful herein may has a weight average molecular weight of preferably from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 1 ,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the polypropylene glycol herein deposits onto, or is absorbed into hair to act as a moisturizer buffer, and/or provides one or more other desirable hair conditioning benefits.
  • the term "polypropylene glycol” includes single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, and multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers.
  • branched polymers such as the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers herein are described, for example, in "Principles of Polymerization,” pp. 17-19, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3 rd ed., 1991).
  • the polypropylene glycol herein are typically polydisperse polymers.
  • the polypropylene glycols useful herein have a polydispersity of from about 1 to about 2.5, preferably from about 1 to about 2, and more preferably from about 1 to about 1.5.
  • the term "polydispersity" indicates the degree of the molecular weight distribution of the polymer sample. Specifically, the polydispersity is a ratio, greater than 1, equal to the weight average molecular weight divided by the number average molecular weight.
  • the polypropylene glycol useful herein may be either water-soluble, water- insoluble, or may have a limited solubility in water, depending upon the degree of polymerization and whether other moieties are attached thereto.
  • the desired solubility of the polypropylene glycol in water will depend in large part upon the form (e.g., leave-on, or rinse-off form) of the hair conditioning composition.
  • the solubility in water of the polypropylene glycol herein may be chosen by the artisan according to a variety of factors. Accordingly, for a leave-on hair conditioning composition, it is preferred that the polypropylene glycol herein be a water- soluble polypropylene glycol.
  • Solubility information is readily available from polypropylene glycol suppliers, such as Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan).
  • the present invention may also take the form of a rinse-off hair conditioning composition. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that in such a composition, a water-soluble polypropylene glycol may be too easily washed away before it effectively deposits on hair and provides the desired benefit(s). For such a composition, a less soluble, or even a water-insoluble polypropylene glycol is therefore preferred.
  • the polypropylene glycol herein has a solubility in water at 25 °C of less than about 1 g/100 g water, more preferably a solubility in water of less than about 0.5 g/100 g water, and even more preferably a solubility in water of less than about 0.1 g/100 g water.
  • the polypropylene glycol is selected from the group consisting of a single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, a multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of a single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of Formula I, below, a multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of
  • a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
  • a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably from about 20 to about
  • the single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer useful herein is typically inexpensive, and is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei
  • Witco Chemicals Corp. Greenwich, Connecticut, USA
  • PPG Specialty Chemicals Greenwich, Illinois, USA
  • a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
  • n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably from about 0 to about 7, and more preferably from about 1 to about 4.
  • each R" is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C C 30 alkyl, and preferably each R" is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C
  • c and d are independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1.
  • the total of b + c + d is at least about 2, preferably the total of b + c + d is from about 2 to about 3.
  • Each e is independently a value of 0 or 1 , if n is from about 1 to about 4, then e is preferably equal to 1. Also in Formula IV, x, y, and z is independently a value of from about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, and more preferably from about 7 to about 100, where x + y + z is greater than about 20.
  • one or more of the propylene repeating groups in the polypropylene glycol is an isopropyl oxide repeating group. More preferably one or more of the propylene oxide repeating groups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or the polypropylene glycol of Formula IV is an isopropyl oxide repeating group. Even more preferably, substantially all of the propylene oxide repeating groups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or the polypropylene glycol of Formula IV are isopropyl oxide repeating groups. Accordingly, a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula: wherein a is defined as described above for Formula III.
  • a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula: wherein n, R", b, c, d, e, x, y, and z are defined as above, for Formula IV. It is recognized that the isopropyl oxide repeating groups may also correspond either alone, or in combination with the above depicted, to:
  • polypropylene glycol useful herein is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan) as New pol PP-2000, New pol PP-4000, New pol GP-4000, and New pol SP-4000, from Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), from Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), from Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), from Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and from PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).
  • Sanyo Kasei Osaka, Japan
  • New pol PP-2000 New pol PP-4000
  • New pol GP-4000 New pol GP-4000
  • New pol SP-4000 New pol SP-4000
  • Dow Chemicals Modland, Michigan, USA
  • Calgon Chemical, Inc. Skokie, Illinois, USA
  • Arco Chemical Co. Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA
  • composition B of present invention may further comprise a polyethylene glycol having the formula: H(OCH 2 CH 2 )n -OH wherein n has an average value of from 2,000 to 14,000, preferably from about 5,000 to about 9,000, more preferably from about 6,000 to about 8,000.
  • the polyethylene glycol can be included in the composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the polyethylene glycol can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the polyethylene glycol described above is also known as a polyethylene oxide, and polyoxyethylene.
  • Polyethylene glycols useful herein that are especially preferred are PEG-2M wherein n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10 from Union Carbide and as PEG- 2,000); PEG-5M wherein n has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and as Polyox WSR® N-80, both from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein n has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein n has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG-9M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 from Union Carbide); and PEG-14M wherein n has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 from Union Carbide). HIGH MOLECULAR WE
  • the Composition B of the present invention may further comprise a high molecular weight ester oil.
  • the a high molecular weight ester oil can be included in the Composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the a high molecular weight ester oil can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the high molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those which are water insoluble, have a molecular weight of at least about 500, preferably at least about 800, and are in liquid form at 25°C.
  • Useful high molecular weight ester oils herein include pentaethytritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly ⁇ -olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • water insoluble means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25°C; when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
  • the high molecular weight ester oil herein provides conditioning benefits such as moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that water insoluble oily material in general are capable of being deposited on the hair. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, because of its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil covers the surface of the hair and, as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces hair friction to deliver smoothness and manageability control to the hair. It is also believed that, because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturized feel, yet, because it is liquid, does not leave the hair feeling greasy. The high molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions.
  • Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R ⁇ R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula:
  • R 11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons
  • R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 11 is ethyl and R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils useful herein are those having the following formula and having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cst, a molecular weight of from about 200 to about 60,000, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3; wherein R 31 is an alkyl having from about 4 to 14 carbons, preferably 4 to 10 carbons.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a molecular weight of at least about 800 are useful herein. Such high molecular weight poly ⁇ -olefin oils are believed to provide long lasting moisturized feel to the hair.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a molecular weight of less than about 800 are useful herein. Such low molecular weight poly ⁇ -olefin oils are believed to provide a smooth, light, clean feel to the hair.
  • Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 having the following formula:
  • R 21 is OH or CH 3 COO
  • R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 21 is OH
  • R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 21 , R 22 , R 23 and R 24 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
  • Glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 and having the following formula:
  • R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
  • pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol with tradenames
  • Particularly useful poly ⁇ -olefin oils herein include polydecenes with tradenames PURESYN 6 having a number average molecular weight of about
  • citrate ester oils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316 available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISC available from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 320 available from Bernel.
  • Particularly useful glyceryl ester oils herein include triisostearin with tradename SUN ESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku, triolein with tradename CITHROL GTO available from Croda Surfactants Ltd., trilinolein with tradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy, or tradename EFA-GLYCERIDES from Brooks.
  • the Composition B of the present invention may further comprise a rheology modifier.
  • the rheology modifier may be any polymer which increases the rheology of the composition, and which are compatible with the other polymers included in the composition, and do not negatively affect the benefits provided by the composition.
  • Rheology modifiers particularly suitable in the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
  • Commercially available hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose are those available from Akzo Nobel with tradename
  • compositions of the present invention may further contain an additional conditioning agent.
  • Additional conditioning agents are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and the desired characteristic of the product.
  • components of cationic nature will be included in an amount which would not cause separation in view of the essential components of anionic nature.
  • the additional conditioning agents herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 10%.
  • High melting point fatty compound The high melting point compound described above can be included in the composition (Composition A) at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1 %.
  • the weight of the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is preferably greater than about 0.5 times, more preferably 1.0 times, the weight of the high melting point compound.
  • Cationic surfactant is preferably greater than about 0.5 times, more preferably 1.0 times, the weight of the high melting point compound.
  • Cationic surfactant described above can be included in the Composition A in an amount which would not cause separation in view of the essential components of anionic nature.
  • Cationic Polymers Cationic polymers are useful herein. As used herein, the term "polymer” shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
  • the cationic polymer is a water soluble cationic polymer.
  • water soluble cationic polymer what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C.
  • the preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration.
  • the cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million.
  • the cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.
  • Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as the water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also be used, as this list is not exclusive.
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers.
  • the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units.
  • Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
  • Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer.
  • tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R 88 X wherein R 88 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C, - C 7 alkyl, more preferably a C, - C 3 alkyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above.
  • Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.
  • the alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C 1 - C 3 alkyls, more preferably C 1 and C 2 alkyls.
  • Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C, - C 7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C, - C 3 , alkyls.
  • the cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp.
  • CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
  • Z 7 is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual
  • R 89 is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof
  • R 90 , R 91 , and R 92 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R 90 , R 91 and R 92 ) preferably being about 20 or less
  • X is as previously described.
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR ® and LR ® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
  • CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200 ® .
  • cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series.
  • Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581.
  • Particularly useful cationic polymers herein include Polyquatemium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-24, and mixtures thereof. Additional Oily Compounds
  • Additional oily compounds useful herein include fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives, and hydrocarbons.
  • the additional oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile, and have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the additional oily compounds may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair.
  • the additional oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the additional oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.
  • the fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
  • the fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropyl stearate,
  • Bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils and glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those which have a molecular weight of less than about 800, preferably less than about 500.
  • the hydrocarbons useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C 2-6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths.
  • the number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350.
  • mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly ⁇ -olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols and their derivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from Shin Ninon Rika, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol.
  • commercially available bulky ester oils useful herein include: trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co.
  • hydrocarbons useful herein include isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, and USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA.) Other Additional Components
  • compositions of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
  • additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • a wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes;
  • compositions (Composition A) of the present invention have a suitable viscosity, preferably from about 1 ,000mm 2 s “1 to about 100,000mmV, more preferably from about 2,000mm 2 s “1 to about 50,000mm 2 s “1 .
  • the viscosity herein can be suitably measured at 2.0s "1 of shear rate after 1 minute of rotation.
  • the pH of the present composition is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 4.5 to about 7.5. Buffers and other pH adjusting agents can be included to achieve the desirable pH.
  • PRODUCT FORMS The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, can be transparent or opaque, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
  • Composition A of the present invention is a leave-on product.
  • the compositions of the present invention are preferably transparent, especially when leave-on products. What is meant by transparent, is that a black substance having the size of a 1cm X 1cm square can be detected by the naked eye through 1cm thickness of the present composition.
  • Composition B of the present invention is a rinse-off product. METHOD OF USE
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention are used in conventional ways to provide the conditioning and other benefits of the present invention. Such method of use depends upon the type of composition employed but generally involves providing hair, or a hair sample, having a bulk hair area, applying an effective amount of the product to the hair, and then drying the hair. Before drying, the hair conditioning composition may be either rinsed from the hair (as in the case of hair rinses), or allowed to remain on the hair (as in the case of gels, lotions, and creams). "Effective amount” means an amount sufficient enough to provide the conditioning benefits and desired increase in bulk hair volume. In general, from about 1 g to about 50 g is applied to the hair, and/or the scalp.
  • increase in bulk hair volume is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable. On the other hand, increase in bulk hair volume as used herein relates to the volume increase of the hair as a whole while controlling fly-away of the hair.
  • the hair conditioning composition may be distributed throughout the hair, typically by rubbing or massaging the hair and scalp, or the composition may be selectively applied to certain parts of the hair.
  • the hair conditioning composition is preferably applied to wet or damp hair prior to drying of the hair. After such hair conditioning compositions are applied to the hair, the hair is dried and styled in accordance with the preference of the user. In the alternative, it may be applied to already dry hair, and the hair is then combed or styled, and dried in accordance with the preference of the user.
  • the hair conditioning composition is preferably applied to wet or damp hair after shampooing. After such hair conditioning compositions are applied to the hair, the hair is rinsed. Then, the hair is dried and styled in accordance with the preference of the user.
  • the Image Analysis Protocol is a system and procedure which is designed to digitally measure and analyze the components of bulk hair area. This protocol provides a quantifiable, repeatable method for accurately distinguishing, measuring, and comparing bulk hair area before and after treatment with a hair conditioning composition. This bulk hair area directly correlate with bulk hair volume.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide a significant, noticeable increase in the bulk hair area, preferably by at least about 5% as measured by the method described, below.
  • Fig. 1 shows a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System useful herein.
  • the Image Analysis System 10, coasts of a white screen, 12, lighting equipment, 14, a sample holder, 16, a high-resolution digital camera, 18, and a personal computer, 20.
  • the sample holder, 16, is placed between the white screen, 12, and the high- resolution digital camera, 18.
  • the sample holder, 16, is typically a clip or clamp which stably suspends a hair sample, 22, about 40 cm in front of the white screen, 12.
  • the sample holder, 16, is typically about 80 cm from the high- resolution digital camera, 18, and positioned above the high-resolution camera's field of view, so that it is not visible in the captured images.
  • the white screen, 12, is a matte-finish (e.g., non-glare) white-colored screen which is illuminated to provide a constant and repeatable background against which the hair sample, 22, is measured. As the difference between bulk hair area and flyaway hair area is judged according to the brightness of the image (see below), it is important that the hair sample be photographed in front of a background which has a constant brightness. As seen in Fig.
  • the preferred lighting equipment, 14, consists of twin photography lights located on each side of the sample, and pointing towards the white screen.
  • Each of these lights is preferably a twin florescent tube light contained within a lighting fixture, and is typically from about 20 cm to about 60 cm to the side of the sample holder, 16. This places them far enough away from the hair sample, 22, so that they are not visible by the high-resolution digital camera, 18. This assures that the captured image will only include the image of the hair sample, 22, and will not include, for example, the back-side of the lighting equipment, 14. Therefore, the lighting equipment, 14, should not interfere with or block the picture to be taken. Also, in such a configuration, the hair sample, 22, is not directly illuminated by the lighting equipment, 14.
  • the high-resolution digital camera, 18, is focused on the hair sample, 22, and not the white screen, 12.
  • the high-resolution digital camera, 18, is connected to a personal computer, 20, and automatically transfers the captured image to the computer's imaging software.
  • the Image Analysis System should be located away from air currents or other forces which would disturb the hair sample, and is in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, so as to ensure repeatable results.
  • the high-resolution digital camera (e.g., Model HC-2500 3-CCD from Fujifilm Co., of Tokyo, Japan) has a resolution of at least 1280 horizontal pixels, and 1000 vertical pixels.
  • the high-resolution digital camera is calibrated to a linear gain, so that the incremental difference between all brightness values (an 8-bit, 0-255 brightness scale) is equal.
  • Such a calibration may be achieved via, for example, utilizing a standard gray-scale calibration cell and/or the high- resolution digital camera's internal look-up-table (LUT).
  • the white screen when lit with the lighting equipment
  • the typical hair sample consists of 15 cm (5 g) straight black Asian hair switches (available from Kawamuraya Co., Osaka, Japan) or straight brown Caucasian hair switches (available from International Hair Importers & products Inc., Bellerose, New York, U.S.A.).
  • the hair area increase benefits, and the corresponding hair volume increase benefits, of the present invention are applicable to all types of hair switches. Further, it has been shown that the results achieved with hair switches are comparable to the results achieved during actual use on people.
  • the hair sample is prepared as follows:
  • For treated hair Apply 1 ml of a hair conditioning composition to be tested to the hair sample. 7) For treated hair: Rinse off the hair sample for 10 seconds. 8) Comb through the front of the hair sample 5 times.
  • Steps 4 through 7 are only performed for the treated hair samples.
  • an "untreated picture” is first taken of a hair sample, and then a “treated picture” is taken.
  • the untreated and treated bulk hair areas shown in the pictures, are then compared.
  • the same hair switch is first used for the untreated hair sample, and then used for the treated hair sample, according to the procedure described above. Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.
  • a hair sample (either treated, or untreated), 22, is prepared, it is placed on the sample holder, 16, in front of the white screen, 12.
  • the distance from the high-resolution digital camera, 18, and the hair sample, 22, should be the same for both the untreated and treated pictures.
  • the hair sample is aligned so that the widest profile (according to the bottom end of the hair sample) is captured by the high-resolution digital camera. This alignment approximates the way hair is arranged on the head, and therefore provides the most accurate view of the effect on hair area (and therefore hair volume), after treatment. This also assures an accurate measurement of the bulk hair area increase effects.
  • an 8-bit, gray-scale picture is taken with the high-resolution digital camera, 18.
  • the high-resolution digital camera, 18, assigns each pixel a brightness value of from 0 (pure black) to 255 (pure white).
  • the picture is then transferred to the personal computer, 20.
  • the personal computer may assign each pixel a brightness value from 0 to 255.
  • Such a picture is also referred to as a "captured image,” and may be saved electronically as, for example, a TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) file, for future reference.
  • TIFF Tagged Image File Format
  • each hair sample appears as gray-to-black on a white background.
  • the imaging software e.g., Optimas v.
  • the imaging software then defines "bulk hair" in the captured image as the largest continuous region bounded by black lines.
  • the "flyaway hair” is defined as black, gray, and white regions bounded by one or more gray lines, excluding the bulk hair.
  • the term "bounded” as used herein with respect to the imaging software indicates that the referred-to- area is completely surrounded by at least one line of the specified shade.
  • the imaging software then calculates the area of each region, typically in cm 2 , to find the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area.
  • the total hair area is the sum of the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area.
  • the bulk hair area and/or the flyaway hair area may also be calculated as a percentage of the total hair area.
  • the imaging software automatically sets the untreated total hair area equal to a value of 1.0, and normalizes the other values, accordingly.
  • the imaging software may also outline and/or color code the bulk hair area and/or flyaway hair area for easy reference.
  • the increase in hair volume after treatment is based on comparing the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreated hair samples by hair conditioning composition of the present invention, to the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreated hair samples by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control” described below.
  • the same hair switch is first used for treatment by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control”, and then used for treatment by the hair conditioning composition of the present invention. Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.
  • the hair areas are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area before treated by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control”(UBAcont) and the untreated bulk hair area before treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention (UBAinv). These are then compared to the calculated hair areas for the treated bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control”(TBAcont) and the treated bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention (TBAinv).
  • the increase in bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention corresponds to a increase in the bulk hair volume, and is calculated according to the following equation:
  • a given hair conditioning composition (or control) is typically tested on at least three separate hair samples.
  • the bulk hair area increase are then calculated for each hair sample, and an average bulk hair area increase are calculated.
  • the Image Analysis Protocol two pictures of each treated and untreated hair sample are taken.
  • the first picture corresponds to the widest profile of the hair sample, while the second picture corresponds to the most narrow profile of the hair sample, which is typically a 90 ° rotation from the widest profile.
  • average values are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area and treated bulk hair area. These average values are then employed in the above equations. Such a procedure is especially useful with hair samples which are slightly curved, due to their natural contours, or because of washing.
  • Stearic acid Stearic Acid available from Shinnihon Rika *30 Cholesterol: NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko *31 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose: Polysurf 67 available from Aqualon *32 Hydroxyethylcellulose: NATROSOL obtained form Herculus *33 Polyquaternium-22: Merquat 280 available from Calgon *34 PEG-2M: Polyox PEG 2M available from Amerchol.
  • Aloe extract Aloe Extract Vera obtained from lchimaru Farcos.
  • Ginseng Ginseng available from Occupational Medicine, CAPM
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer 1 Copolymer 937 available from ISP.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer 2 Copolymer 845 available from ISP.
  • TSF 451 available from General Electric Co.
  • Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate KAK PTI obtained by Kokyu alcohol.
  • the polymeric materials such as the carboxylic acid/alkyl carboxylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrroridone/vinyl acetate copolymer, amphoteric conditioning polymer, and additional viscosity modifier, if present, are dispersed in water at room temperature, mixed by vigorous agitation, and heated to 50°C.
  • the high melting point compounds, if included, is added to the mixture with agitation at above 70°C by either melting such components or by dissolving such components.
  • the neutralizing agent is added to the mixture. After neutralizing, the mixture is cooled to below 40°C, and then the remaining components are added to the mixture with agitation.
  • Examples 1 through 12 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for leave-on use. These examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide increase in bulk hair volume, and can also provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair, and leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling.
  • deionized water is heated to 85 °C, and cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compounds are mixed into the water to form a gel matrix.
  • the mixture is maintained at a temperature of about
  • Examples 13 through 18 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for rinse-off use. These examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide increase in bulk hair volume, and can also provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, moisturized feel and fly-away control.
  • composition of Example 13 can provide hair area increase in the bulk hair area by 5% measured by the Image Analysis Protocol.

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Abstract

Disclosed is a hair conditioning composition (hereinafter Composition A) comprising: (1) a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer; (2) a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer; and (3) an aqueous carrier, and a hair conditioning composition (hereinafter Composition B) comprising: (1) a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water; and (2) vinylpyrrolidone polymer, preferably vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer. The Compositions A and B of the present invention can provide increase in bulk hair volume, and can also provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair. The Composition A can also leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling.

Description

HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION COMPRISING VINYLPYRROHDONE COPOLYMER
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising an carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer and vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. The present invention also relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising a gel matrix and a vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
BACKGROUND
Human hair becomes soiled due to its contact with the surrounding environment and from sebum secreted by the scalp. The soiling of the hair causes it to have a dirty or greasy feel, and an unattractive appearance. The soiling of the hair necessitates shampooing with regularity. Shampooing cleans the hair by removing excess soil and sebum.
However, shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair", or contribute to an undesirable phenomena of "split ends", particularly for long hair.
A variety of approaches have been developed to alleviate these after- shampoo problems. These approaches range from post-shampoo application of hair conditioner such as leave-on and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos which attempt to both cleanse and condition the hair from a single product. Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of a shampoo which includes conditioners, a substantial proportion of consumers prefer the more conventional conditioner formulations which are applied to the hair as a separate step from shampooing, usually subsequent to shampooing. Such consumers who prefer the conventional conditioner formulations value the relatively higher conditioning effect, or convenience of changing the amount of conditioning depending on the condition of hair or portion of hair.
Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave- on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray, and mousse. Products in the form of cream, gel, and mousse are suitable in that the consumer can easily control the amount and distribution of the product. As such, these products are particularly suitable for leave-on products.
A common method of providing conditioning benefit to the hair is through the use of hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols. Cationic surfactants and polymers, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols are known to enhance hair shine and provide moistness, softness, and static control to the hair. However, such components can also provide greasy or waxy feeling. Silicone conditioning agents are also known to provide conditioning benefits such as smoothness and combing ease due to the low surface tension of silicone compounds. However, silicone conditioning agents can cause dry feel or frizzy condition to the hair. Moreover, when these conditioning agents are included in a leave-on product, they may further leave the hands with a tacky, dirty, feeling.
Furthermore, most of these conditioning agents are also known to weigh down the hair, when these conditioning agents are included in a hair conditioning compositions. The weighed down hair gives an appearance of reduced bulk hair volume. For consumers who desire hair volume-up such as consumers having fine hair, the effect of hair weighing down is not desirable. The term "hair volume-up" as used herein is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable. On the other hand, hair volume-up as used herein relates to increase of the bulk of the hair volume. Consumers having fine hair have the desire to achieve hair volume-up while controlling undesirable fly-away of the hair. Based on the foregoing, there remains a desire to provide hair conditioning compositions suitable for leave-on use which provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair, and leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling.
It is also desirable to provide hair conditioning compositions suitable for leave-on use which provide hair volume-up while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control.
It is further desirable to provide hair conditioning compositions suitable for rinse-off use which provide hair volume-up while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control. None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the present invention.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURE
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the invention will be better understood from the following description of the accompanying figure in which:
Fig. 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System.
SUMMARY
The present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition (hereinafter "Composition A") comprising:
(1 ) a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer;
(2) a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer; and (3) an aqueous carrier.
The present invention is also directed to a hair conditioning composition (hereinafter "Composition B") comprising:
(1 ) a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water; and (2) a vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties. Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as to its availability as prior art to the claimed invention. Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of and "consisting essentially of.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
The aspects and embodiments of the present invention set forth in this document have many advantages. For example, the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide: improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair, and leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling. In one embodiment of the present invention, a transparent hair conditioning composition can be provided.
CARBOXYLIC ACID/CARBOXYLATE COPOLYMER
The compositions (Composition A) of the present invention comprises a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer. The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked coplymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate, and nave an amphiphilic property. These carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers are obtained by copolymerizing 1) a carboxylic acid monomer such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, or -chloroacrylic acid, 2) a carboxylic ester having an alkyl chain of from 1 to about 30 carbons, and preferably 3) a crosslinking agent of the following formula:
Figure imgf000006_0001
wherein R^2 is a hydrogen or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbons; Y1 , indepedently, is oxygen, CH2O, COO, OCO,
Figure imgf000006_0002
js a hydrogen or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30 carbons; and Y^ is selected from (CH2)m", (CH2CH2θ)m" or (CH2CH2CH2θ)m" wherein m" is an integer of from 1 to about 30. The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are believed to provide appropriate viscosity and rheology properties to the composition, and to emulsify and stabilize certain conditioning agents in the composition. It is further believed that, because of the alkyl group contained in the copolymer, the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers do not make the composition undesirably sticky.
The composition of the present invention preferably comprises the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 2%. The weight of the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is preferably greater than about 0.5 times, more preferably 1.0 times, the weight of the high melting point compound.
Suitable carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers having the following formula:
Figure imgf000007_0001
wherein R51 , independently, is a hydrogen or an alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons wherein at least one of R51 is a hydrogen, R52 is as defined above, n, n', m and m' are integers in which n+n'+m+m' is from about 40 to about 100, n" is an integer of from 1 to about 30, and i is defined so that the copolymer has a molecular weight of about 500,000 to about 3,000,000.
Commercially available carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers useful herein include: CTFA name Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer having tradenames Pemulene TR-1 , Pemulene TR-2, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, and Carbopol ETD 2020, all available from B. F. Goodrich Company.
Neutralizing agents may be included to neutralize the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein. Nonlimiting examples of such neutralizing agents include sodium hydroxide, potssium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tromethamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, and mixtures thereof. VINYLPYRROLIDONE COPOLYMER The compositions (Composition A) of the present invention comprise a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. The Composition B can comprise a vinylpyrrolidone polymer including vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone and butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone, preferably, comprises vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. The vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein are those which comprise monomers other than vinylpyrrolidone. The vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein are believed to provide increase in bulk hair volume while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as fly-away control. Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are typically included in the hair styling compositions as a film former or a hair fixative. It has been surprisingly found that when the copolymers are included in the hair conditioning compositions (Composition A), together with carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, increase in bulk hair volume is significantly improved. It has also been surprisingly found that when the copolymers are included in the hair conditioning compositions (Composition B), together with gel matrix, increase in bulk hair volume is significantly improved.
Non-limiting examples of vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein include polyvinylpyrrolidone/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/polycarbamylpolyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/itaconic acid copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymer, and polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymer, quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as Polyquatemium-11 , quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymer such as Polyquaternium-16, PVP/Vinyl Caprolactam/Dimethylaminoethyl Mathacrylate Copolymer, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquatemium-46, Polyquaternium-28, and Styrene/PVP Copolymer.
In Composition A, preferably, the copolymer of pyrrolidone useful herein is a nonionic copolymer in view of better compatibility with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer and less deteriorating conditioning benefits.
In Composition A, preferably, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymer are used in the compositions of the present invention, and more preferably, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer is used in the compositions of the present invention in view of better compatibility with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, less deteriorating conditioning benefits, and better hair volume-up benefit. In the polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, the mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer may be preferably from about 1:9 to about 9:1, more preferably from about 5:5 to about 8:2.
In Composition B, preferably, the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone useful herein is a water-soluble copolymer in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix. In Composition B, preferably, the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone useful herein is a cationic copolymer or a nonionic copolymer in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix and less deteriorating conditioning benefits.
In Composition B, preferred vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as Poiyquaternium-11 , quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymer such as Polyquaternium-16, and polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, in view of better compatibility with the gel matrix, less deteriorating conditioning benefits, and volume-up benefit. More preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyimethacrylate copolymer and quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as Polyquaternium-11. Commercially available vinylpyrrolidone copolymers useful herein include: CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer having tradenames Luviskol VA28E, Luviskol VA37E, Luviskol VA55E, Luviskol VA64E, Luviskol VA73E, Luviskol VA37HM, Luviskol VA64 Powder, Luviskol VA64W, and Luviskol VA73W, ail available from BASF, and PVPΛ/A E series, I series, S-630, all available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymer having tradename Luviskol VAP343E available from BASF; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer having tradename Acrylidone LM available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethiconylacrylate/polycarbamyl/polyglycol ester having tradename Pecogel S-1120 available from Phoenix; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer having tradename Copolymer 845, Copolymer 937, and Copolymer 958, all available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/polycarbamylpolyglycol ester having tradename Pecogel GC-310 and Pecogel GC-1110 available from Phoenix; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/DMAPA acrylates copolymer having tradename ACP-1163 available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer having tradename Antaron V-220 and Ganex V-220 available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer having tradename Antaron V-216 and Ganex V-216 available from ISP; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester having tradename Pecogel A-12 and Pecogel H series available from Phoenix; CTFA name polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymer having tradename ACP-1189 available from ISP; CTFA name Polyquaternium-11 having tradename Gafquat 734 and Gafquat 755N available from ISP; CTFA name Polyquaternium-16 having tradename Luviquat FC370 available from BASF; CTFA name PVP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer having tradename Styleze CC-10 available from ISP; CTFA name Polyquatemium-44 having tradename Luviquat Care and Luviquat MS-370 available from BASF; CTFA name Polyquaternium-46 having tradename Luviquat Hold available from BASF; CTFA name Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Dimethylaminoethyl Mathacrylate Copolymer having trade name Gaffix VC-713 available from ISP; CTFA name Polyquatemium-28 having tradename Gafquat HS-100 available from ISP; CTFA name Styrene/PVP Copolymer having tradename Polectron 430 and Antara 430 available from ISP. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%. AQUEOUS CARRIER
The compositions of the present invention comprise an aqueous carrier. The level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
In Composition A, carriers useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols. Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
In Composition A, preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 20% to about 99%, preferably from about 40% to about 98%, and more preferably from about 50% to about 98% water. GEL MATRIX The Composition B of the present invention comprises a gel matrix.
Preferably, the gel matrix is comprised, by weight of the hair conditioning composition, from about 60% to about 99%, preferably from about 70% to about 95%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 95%. The gel matrix includes a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water. The gel matrix serves as an aqueous carrier for the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, and is typically characterized by a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps, preferably from about 10,000 cps to about 30,000 cps, and more preferably from about 12,000 cps to about 28,000 cps, as measured at 25°C, by means of a Brookfield Viscometer at shear rate of 1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the gel matrix significantly improves deposition of the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer onto hair while providing improved hair conditioning benefits.
In a highly preferred embodiment, the gel matrix is a lamellar gel matrix, which provides improved deposition, wet hair feel, softness, and other substantial benefits. In a lamellar gel matrix, the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is from about 1 :1 to about 1 :20, preferably from about 1 :2 to about 1 :10, and more preferably form about 1 :3 to 1 :5. Generally, the preferred cationic surfactants in the lamellar gel matrix contain one or two long chain (e.g., *ι2-3o) alkyl groups, and a tertiary or quaternary amine group. Tertiary amine groups having one or two C16.22 alkyl chains are preferred.
The existence of a lamellar gel matrix may be detected by differential scanning calorimetry (hereinafter referred to as "DSC") measurement of the composition. A profile chart obtained by DSC measurement describes chemical and physical changes of the scanned sample that involve an enthalpy change or energy gradient when the temperature of the sample is fluctuated. As such, the phase behavior and interaction among components of hair conditioning compositions of the present invention may be understood by their DSC profiles. DSC measurement of compositions of the present invention may be conducted by any suitable instrument available. For example, DSC measurement may be suitably conducted by Seiko DSC 6000 instrument available from Seiko Instruments Inc. In a typical measurement procedure, a sample is prepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into a container made for DSC measurement and sealed. The weight of the sample is recorded. A blank sample i.e.; an unsealed sample of the same container is also prepared. The sample and blank sample are placed inside the instrument, and run under a measurement condition of from about -50°C to about 130°C at a heating rate of from about 1°C/minute to about 10°C/minute. The area of the peaks as identified are calculated and divided by the weight of the sample to obtain the enthalpy change in mJ/mg. In a preferred lamellar gel matrix, the DSC profile shows a formation peak of larger than about 3 mJ/mg. The position of the peaks are identified by the peak top position. The DSC profile of the preferred lamellar gel matrix shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of from about 55°C to about 75°C, and from about 6 mJ/mg to about 10 mJ/mg. The preferred DSC profile of the lamellar gel matrix shows no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40°C to 55°C. It is believed that a composition formed predominantly with such a gel matrix shows a relatively stable phase behavior during the temperature range of from about 40°C to about 55°C. In an even more preferred lamellar gel matrix, the DSC profile shows a single peak having a peak top temperature of between about 60°C and 70°C, at about 8 mJ/mg, and no peaks larger than 3 mJ/mg from 40°C to about 55°C.
The gel matrix may become unstable or, at worst, become destroyed in the presence of certain components. Such components include high levels of anionic surfactants and film-forming polymers having anionic moieties. A highly preferred composition is substantially free of such components. High melting point compound
The high melting point compound useful herein have a melting point of at least about 25°C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
It is believed that these high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing. The high melting point compound is preferably included in the composition
(Composition B) at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, still preferably from about 1 % to about 10%.
The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons.
Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol. High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred. By "pure" herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%. These single compounds of high purity provide good rinsability from the hair when the consumer rinses off the composition. Commercially available high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1- DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko.
In Composition B, while poly fatty alcohols may form the gel matrix, mono fatty alcohols are preferred. Either the cationic surfactants and/or the high melting point compound may be mixed with, suspended in, and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel matrix. Cationic Surfactant
Among the cationic surfactants useful herein are those corresponding to the general formula (I):
Figure imgf000015_0001
wherein at least one of R7\ R72, R73 and R74 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is when R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from C1 to about C22 alkyl. Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quatemium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quatemium-18 methosulfate, quatemium-24, and mixtures thereof.
Among the cationic surfactants of general formula (I), preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons. Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl propyleneglycol phosphate dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, and N-(stearoyl colamino formyl methy) pyridinium chloride.
Also preferred are hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the R71-R74 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C1-C3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges. Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VIII) below:
Figure imgf000016_0001
wherein n1 is from 8 to about 28, m1+m2 is from 2 to about 40, Z1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH2CH2O)m3H wherein m1+m2+m3 is up to 60, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000017_0001
wherein n2 is 1 to 5, one or more of R75, R76, and R77 are independently an C1-C30 alkyl, the remainder are CH2CH2OH, one or two of R78, R79, and R80 are independently an C^C^ alkyl, and remainder are CH2CH2OH, and X is a salt forming anio
Figure imgf000017_0002
wherein, independently for formulae (IV) and (V), Z2 is an alkyl, preferably C.-C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, and Z3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, n3 and n4 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2, R81 and R82, independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C12-C20 alkyl or alkenyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000017_0003
wherein R83 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C1-C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, Z4 and Z5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C2-C4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl, m4 is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000017_0004
wherein R84 and R85, independently, are C--C3 alkyl, preferably methyl, Z6 is a C12-C22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido, and A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof; and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000018_0001
wherein n5 is 2 or 3, R86 and R87, independently are C C3 hydrocarbyls preferably methyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quatemium-52, quaternium-53, quatemium-56, quaternium-60, quatemium-61 , quaternium-62, quatemium-70, quatemium-71 , quatemium-72, quatemium-75, quatemium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium- 79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quatemium-80, quatemium-81 , quaternium-82, quatemium-83, quaternium-84, and mixtures thereof.
Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT K1215 and VARIQUAT 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD 0/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel, and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas. Amines are suitable as cationic surfactants. Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenyiamine. Useful amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al. These amines can also be used in combination with acids such as £- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ^-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably -glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. The amines herein are preferably partially neutralized with any of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 0.4 to about 1 : 1.
The cationic surfactant is preferably included in the composition (Composition B) at a level by weight of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, still preferably from about 0.25% to about 3%. Water
The gel matrix comprise water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least about 60%, preferably at least about 70% water, and more preferably from about 75% to about 95% water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations may also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. SILICONE COMPOUND Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain a silicone compound. The silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone. The silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization. The silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
The silicone compounds herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.1% to about 40%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%.
A nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especially useful is a silicone gum. The term "silicone gum", as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. The "silicone gums" will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
Also useful are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxyge silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid. The silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as Tospearl™ from Toshiba Silicones. The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can be found in
Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989.
Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH3)3SiO05; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)Si01 5; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit Si02. Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T\ and Q1 denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl. Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
The silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following
Figure imgf000022_0001
wherein R93 is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. Z8 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R93) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair. Suitable Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R93 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups.
Preferably, the two R93 groups represent the same group. Suitable R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil®, SF 96 series, and TSF 451 , and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.
Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, are highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreading agent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
The silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II)
Figure imgf000023_0001
wherein R94 is H, CH3 or OH, p1, p2, q and q2 are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".
Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III) (R97)aG3-a-Si-(OSiG2)p3-(OSiGb(R97)2-b)p4-0-SiG3.a(R97)a (III) in which G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH,
Figure imgf000024_0001
alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1 ; the sum p3+p4 is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, p3 being able to denote a number from 0 to 1 ,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and p4 being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R97 is a monovalent radical of formula Cq3H2q3L in which q3 is an integer from 2 to 8 and L is chosen from the groups — N(R96)CH2— CH2— N(R96)2
— N(R96)2 — N(R96)3X'
— N(R96)CH2— CH2— NR96H2X' in which R96 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.
An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula (II) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" wherein R94 is CH3. Other amino substituted silicone polymers which can be used are represented by the formula (V):
Figure imgf000024_0002
where R98 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl; R99 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C,-C18 alkylene radical or a 0,-0,8, and more preferably C C8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q" is a halide ion, preferably chloride; p5 denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; p6 denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50. A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56."
References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551 , to Geen; U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500, to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837, to Pader; and British Patent No. 849,433, to Wooiston. "Silicon Compounds" distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984, provides an extensive, though not exclusive, listing of suitable silicone compounds.
The silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25°C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000. The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
Particularly suitable silicone compounds herein are non-volatile silicone oils having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 600,000 such as Dimethicone, and Dimethiconol. These silicone compounds can be incorporated in the composition as silicone oils solutions; the silicone oils being volatile or nonvolatile.
Commercially available silicone compounds which are useful herein include Dimethicone with tradename DC345 available from Dow Corning Corporation, Dimethicone Fluid with tradename TSF 451 available from General Electric, Dimethicone gum solutions with tradenames SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 available from General Electric, Dimethiconol with tradenames DCQ2- 1403 and DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning Corporation, Mixture of Dimethicone and Dimethiconol with tradename DC1403 available from Dow Corning Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone as described in GB application 2,303,857. AMPHOTERIC CONDITIONING POLYMER
Preferably, the compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain an amphoteric conditioning polymer. The amphoteric conditioning polymers herein are those compatible with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers and which provide conditioning benefit to the hair. Although some of the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein may have some hair holding or hair fixative properties, such hair holding or hair fixative properties are not a requirement for the amphoteric conditioning polymers herein. The amphoteric conditioning polymers useful herein are those including at least one cationic monomer and at least one anionic monomer; the cationic monomer being quaternary ammonium, preferably dialkyl diallyl ammonium chloride or carboxylamidoalkyl trialkyl ammonium chloride; and the anionic monomer being carboxylic acid. The amphoteric conditioning polymers herein may include nonionic monomers such as acrylamine, methacrylate, or ethacrylate. Further, the amphoteric conditioning polymers useful herein do not contain betanized monomers.
The composition of the present invention preferably comprises the amphoteric conditioning polymer at a level by weight of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%.
Useful herein are polymers with the CTFA name Polyquaternium 22, Polyquatemium 39, and Polyquaternium 47. Such polymers are, for example, copolymers consisting of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid, terpolymers consisting of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, and terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate such as those of the following formula wherein the ratio of n6:n7:n8 is 45:45:10:
Figure imgf000026_0001
Highly preferred commercially available amphoteric conditioning polymers herein include Polyquaternium 22 with tradenames MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295, Polyquaternium 39 with tradenames MERQUAT PLUS 3330, MERQUAT PLUS 3331 , and Polyquaternium 47 with tradenames MERQUAT 2001 , MERQUAT 2001 N, all available from Calgon Corporation.
Also useful herein are polymers resulting from the copolymerisation of a vinyl monomer carrying at least one carboxyl group, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, or alphachloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer which is a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic nitrogen atom, such as dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and acrylamides. Also useful herein are polymers containing units derived from: i) at least one monomer chosen from amongst acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical, ii) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and iii) at least one basic comonomer, such as esters, with primary, secondary and tertiary amine substituents and quaternary ammonium substituents, of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the product resulting from the quaternisation of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are most particularly preferred are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, especially N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert.-butylacrylamide, N-tert.- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide and also the corresponding methacrylamides. The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from amongst acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids and also the alkyl monoesters of maleic acid or fumaric acid in which alkyl has 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Commercially available amphoteric conditioning polymers herein include octylacrylamine/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methoacrylate copolymers with the tradenames AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER SH701 , AMPHOMER 28-4910, AMPHOMER LV71 , and AMPHOMER LV47 supplied by National Starch & Chemical. HUMECTANT Preferably, the compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain a humectant. The humectants herein are selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. The humectants herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1, 2-hexane diol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sultate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosin phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
Water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers useful herein include polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available humectants herein include: glycerin with tradenames STAR and SUPEROL available from The Procter & Gamble Company, CRODEROL GA7000 available from Croda Universal Ltd., PRECERIN series available from Unichema, and a same tradename as the chemical name available from NOF; propylene glycol with tradename LEXOL PG-865/855 available from Inolex, 1 ,2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP available from BASF; sorbitol with tradenames LIPONIC series available from Lipo, SORBO, ALEX, A- 625, and A-641 available from ICI, and UNISWEET 70, UNISWEET CONG available from UPI; dipropylene glycol with the same tradename available from BASF; diglycerin with tradename DIGLYCEROL available from Solvay GmbH; xylitol with the same tradename available from Kyowa and Eizai; maltitol with tradename MALBIT available from Hayashibara, sodium chondroitin sulfate with the same tradename available from Freeman and Bioiberica, and with tradename ATOMERGIC SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE available from Atomergic Chemetals; sodium hyaluronate with tradenames ACTIMOIST available from Active Organics, AVIAN SODIUM HYALURONATE series available from Intergen, HYALURONIC ACID Na available from lchimaru Pharcos; sodium adenosin phophate with the same tradename available from Asahikasei, Kyowa, and Daiichi Seiyaku; sodium lactate with the same tradename available from Merck, Wako, and Showa Kako, cyclodextrin with tradenames CAVITRON available from American Maize, RHODOCAP series available from Rhone- Poulenc, and DEXPEARL available from Tomen; and polyethylene glycols with the tradename CARBOWAX series available from Union Carbide. ADDITIONAL VISCOSITY MODIFIER
Preferably, the compositions (Composition A) of the present invention contain an additional viscosity modifier. The additional viscosity modifiers herein are water soluble or water miscible polymers, have the ability to increase the viscosity of the composition, and are compatible with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers. The additional viscosity modifier is selected so that the composition of the present composition has a suitable viscosity, preferably from about 1 ,000 cps to about 100,000 cps, more preferably from about 2,000 cps to about 50,000cps. If such a viscosity is achieved without the additional viscosity modifier, the additional viscosity modifier may not be necessary. The viscosity herein can be suitably measured by Brookfield RVT at 20rpm at 20°C using either spindle #4, 5, 6 or 7 depending on the viscosity and the characteristic of the composition. The additional viscosity modifiers herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.001 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 3%. Additional viscosity modifiers useful herein include anionic polymers and nonionic polymers. Useful herein are vinyl polymers such as cross linked acrylic acid polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer, cellulose derivatives and modified cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabia gum, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carragheenin, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algae colloids (algae extract), microbiological polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pulleran, starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch, methyl hydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate, alginic acid propylene glycol esters, acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, and inorganic water soluble material such as bentonite, aluminum magnesium silicate, laponite, hectonite, and anhydrous silicic acid. Polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight of more than about 1000 are useful herein. Useful are those having the following general formula:
Figure imgf000030_0001
wherein R95 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof. When R95 is H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols. When R95 is methyl, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene glycols. When R95 is methyl, it is also understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers can exist. In the above structure, x3 has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000. Other useful polymers include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene- polypropylene glycols, or polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer polymers,. Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein R95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein R95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein R95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M wherein R95 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 available from Union Carbide).
Commercially available additional viscosity modifiers highly useful herein include Carbomers with tradenames Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981 , all available from B. F. Goodrich Company, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer with tradename ACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass, nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose with tradename AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol, methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied by Herculus, ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers with tradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied by Amerchol. VISIBLE PARTICLE
The compositions (Composition A) of the present invention may further contain a visible particle. By definition, a visible particle is a particle which can be distinctively detected as an individual particle by the naked eye when comprised in the present composition, and which is stable in the present composition. The visible particle can be of any size, shape, or color, according to the desired characteristic of the product, so long as it is distinctively detected as an individual particle by the naked eye. Generally, the visible particle has an average diameter of from about 50μm to about 3000μm, preferably from about 100μm to about 1000μm, more preferably from about 300μm to about 1000μm. By stable, it is meant that the visible particles are not disintegrated, agglomerated, or separated under normal shelf conditions. In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is substantially transparent. In such an embodiment, the visible particles provide a highly suitable aesthetic benefit. What is generally meant by transparent, is that a black substance having the size of a 1cm X 1cm suqare can be detected by the naked eye through 1cm thickness of the present composition.
The visible particles herein are used at levels of from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
The visible particle herein comprises a structural material and preferably an encompassed material.
The structural material provides a certain strength to the visible particle so that they retain their distinctively detectable structure in the present composition under normal shelf conditions. In one preferred embodiment, the structural material further can be broken and disintegrated with very little shear on the hand with the fingers upon use.
Visible particles useful herein include capsules, shelled particles, beads, pellets, droplets, pills, caplets, tablets, grains, flakes, powders and granules. The visible particles can be solid or liquid, filled or un-filled, so long as they are stable in the present composition. The structural material used for making the visible particles varies depending on the compatibility with other components, as well as material, if any, to be encompassed in the visible particles. Exemplary materials for making the visible particles herein include: polysaccharide and saccharide derivatives such as crystalline cellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate phthalate, cellulose nitrate, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalate, methyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, gum acacia (gum arabic), agar, agarose, maltodextrin, sodium alginate, calcium alginate, dextran, starch, galactose, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, chitin, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, laminaran, lichenan, curdlan, inulin, levan, pectin, mannan, xylan, alginic acid, arabic acid, glucommannan, agarose, agaropectin, prophyran, carrageenen, fucoidan, glycosaminoglycan, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin, peptidoglycan, lipopolysaccharide, guar gum, starch, and starch derivatives; oligosaccharides such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, uronic acid, muramic acid, cellobiose, isomaltose, planteose, melezitose, gentianose, maltotriose, stachyose, glucoside and polyglucoside; monosaccharides such as glucose, fructose, and mannose; synthetic polymers such as acrylic polymers and copolymers including polyacrylamide, poly(alkyl cyanoacrylate), and poly(ethylene-vinyl acetate), and carboxyvinyl polymer, polyamide, poly(methyl vinyl ether-maleic anhydride), poly(adipyl-L-lysine), polycarbonate, polyterephthalamide, polyvinyl acetate phthalate, poly(terephthaloyl-L-lysine), polyarylsulfone, poly(methylmethacrylate), poly(ε-caprolactone), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polydimethylsiloxane, polyoxyethylene, polyester, polyglycolic acid, polylactic acid, polyglutamic acid, polylysine, polystyrene, poly(styrene-acrylonitrile), polyimide, and poly(vinyl alcohol); and other material such as fat, fatty acid, fatty alcohol, milk solids, molasses, gelatin, gluten, albumin, shellac, caseinate, bees wax, camauba wax, spermaceti wax, hydrogenated tallow, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol dipalmitate, hydrogenated castor oil, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, 12- hydroxystearyl alcohol, protein, and protein derivatives; and mixtures thereof. Components herein may be described in other sections as useful components for the present composition. The components herein, however, are substantially used to make the structure of the visible particles, and are not dissolved or dispersed in the bulk of the present composition under normal shelf conditions.
Highly preferable structural material herein comprises components selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and their derivatives, saccharides and their derivatives, oligosaccharides, monosaccharides, and mixtures thereof, still preferably, components from the above mentioned group wherein components having various water solubility are selected. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the structural material is made of components selected from the group consisting of cellulose, cellulose derivatives, saccharides, and mixtures thereof.
The visible particle herein may encompass, contain, or be filled with an encompassed material. Such encompassed material can be water soluble or water insoluble, and comprise components such as: vitamins, amino acids, proteins and protein derivatives, herbal extracts, pigments, dyes, antimicrobial agents, chelating agents, UV absorbers, optical brighteners, silicone compounds, perfumes, humectants which are generally water soluble, additional conditioning agents which are generally water insoluble, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, water soluble components are preferred encompassed material. In another embodiment, components selected from the group consisting of vitamins, amino acids, proteins, protein derivatives, herbal extracts, and mixtures thereof are preferred encompassed material. In yet another embodiment, components selected from the group consisting of vitamin E, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, Polygonum multiflori extracts, and mixtures thereof are preferred encompassed material.
Vitamins and amino acids useful as encompassed material herein include: water soluble vitamins such as vitamin B1, B2, B6, B12, C, pantothenic acid, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, biotin, and their derivatives, water soluble amino acids such as asparagine, alanin, indole, glutamic acid and their salts, water insoluble vitamins such as vitamin A, D, E, and their derivatives, water insoluble amino acids such as tyrosine , tryptamine, and their salts.
Pigments useful as encompassed material herein include inorganic, nitroso, monoazo, disazo, carotenoid, triphenyl methan, triaryl methane, xanthene, quinoline, oxazine, azine, anthraquinone, indigoid, thionindigoid, quinacridone, phthalocianine, botanical, natural colors, including: water soluble components such as those having C. I. Names: Acid Red 18, 26, 27,33, 51, 52, 87, 88, 92, 94, 95, Acid Yellow 1 , 3, 11, 23, 36, 40, 73, Food Yellow 3, Food Green 3, Food blue 2, Food Red 1 , 6, Acid Blue 5, 9, 74, Pigment Red 57-1 , 53(Na), Basic Violet 10, Solvent Red 49, Acid orange 7, 20, 24, Acid Green 1, 3, 5, 25, Solvent Green 7, Acid Violet 9, 43; water insoluble components such as those having C. I. Names: Pigment Red 53(Ba), 49(Na), 49(Ca), 49(Ba), 49(Sr), 57, Solvent Red 23, 24, 43, 48, 72, 73, Solvent Orange 2, 7, Pigment Red 4, 24, 48, 63(Ca)3, 64, Vat Red 1, Vat blue 1, 6, Pigment Orange 1, 5, 13, Solvent Yellow 5, 6, 33, Pigment Yellow 1 , 12, Solvent Green 3, Solvent Violet 13, Solvent Blue 63, Pigment Blue 15, titanium dioxides, chlorophyllin copper complex, ultramarines, aluminum powder, bentonite, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, bismuthine, calcium sulfate, carbon black, bone black, chromic acid, cobalt blue, gold, ferric oxides, hydrated ferric oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, magnesium carbonate, manganous phosphate, silver, and zinc oxides. Antimicrobial agents useful as encompassed material include those useful as cosmetic biocides and antidandruff agents including: water soluble components such as piroctone olamine, water insoluble components such as 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclocarban and zinc pyrithione.
Chelating agents useful as encompassed material include: 2,2'- dipyridylamine; 1 ,10-phenanthroline {o-phenanthroline}; di-2-pyridyl ketone; 2,3- bis(2-pyridyl) pyrazine; 2,3-bis(2-pyridyl)-5,6-dihydropyrazine; 1 ,1'- carbonyldiimidazole; 2,4-bis(5,6-diphenyl-1 ,2,4-triazine-3-yl)pyridine; 2,4,6-tri(2- pyridyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine; 4,4'-dimethyl-2,2'dipyridyl; 2,2'-biquinoline; di-2-pyridyl glyoxal {2,2'-pyridil}; 2-(2-pyridyl)benzimidazole; 2,2'-bipyrazine; 3-(2-pyridyl)5,6- diphenyl-1,2,4-trazine; 3-(4-phenyl-2-pyridyl)-5-phenyl-1,2,4-triazine; 3-(4- phenyl-2-pyridyl)-5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine; 2,3,5,6-tetrakis-(2'-pyridyl)- pyrazine; 2,6-pyridinedicarboxylic acid; 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine; phenyl 2- pyridyl ketoxime; 3-amino-5,6-dimethyl-1 ,2,4-triazine; 6-hydroxy-2-phenyl- 3(2H)-pyridazinone; 2,4-pteridinediol {lumazine}; 2,2-'dipyridyl; and 2,3- dihydroxypyridine.
Useful silicone compounds, humectants, additional conditioning agents, UV absorbers, optical brighteners, and herbal extracts for encompassed material are the same as those exemplified in other portions of the specification. The components herein, however, are substantially retained within the breakable visible particles, and are substantially not dissolved in the bulk of the present composition under normal shelf conditions.
Particularly useful commercially available visible particles herein are those with tradenames Unisphere and Unicerin available from Induchem AG (Switzerland), and Confetti Dermal Essentials available from United-Guardian Inc. (NY, USA). Unisphere and Unicerin particles are made of microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, lactose, vitamins, pigments, and proteins. Upon use, the Unisphere and Unicerin particles can be disintegrated with very little shear on the hand with the fingers with practically no resistance, and readily dissolve in the composition. UV ABSORBER
The compositions of the present invention may further contain a UV (ultraviolet) absorber. UV absorbers are particularly useful for compositions of the present invention which are substantially transparent. The UV absorbers herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 10%.
UV absorbers useful herein can be water soluble or water insoluble, including: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anhranilates (i.e., o- aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, -phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate; trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphnin); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); dihydroxy-naphthoic acid and its sals; o-and p-Hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy- substituted benzophenones; uric and vilouric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g., hexaethylether); (butyl carbityl) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxybenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2',4,4'-Tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'- dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone); 4-lsopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane. Of these, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p- aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone ethyl 4-[bis(hydroxypropyl)]aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylamino-benzoate, 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5- sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferred sunscreens useful in the compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof. HERBAL EXTRACT
The compositions of the present invention may further contain herbal extracts. Herbal extracts useful herein include those which are water soluble and those which are water insoluble. Useful herbal extracts herein include: Polygonum multiflori Extract, Houttuynia cordate extract, Phellodendron Bark extract, melilot extract, white dead nettle extract, licorice root extract, herbaceous peony extract, soapwort extract, dishcloth gourd extract, cinchona extract, creeping saxifrage extract, Sophora angustifolia extract, candock extract, common fennel extract, primrose extract, rose extract, Rehmannia glutinosa extract, lemon extract, shikon extract, alloe extract, iris bulb extract, eucalyptus extract, field horsetail extract, sage extract, thyme extract, tea extract, laver extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, raspberry extract, melissa extract, ginseng extract, carrot extract, horse chestnut extract, peach extract, peach leaf extract, mulberry extract, cornflower extract, hamamelis extract, placenta extract, thymus extract, silk extract, algae extract, althea extract, angelica dahurica extract, apple extract, apricot kernel extract, arnica extract, Artemisia capillaris extract, astragal extract, balm mint extract, perilla extract, birch bark extract, bitter orange peel extract, Thea sinensis extract, burdock root extract, burnet extract, butcherbroom extract, Stephania cepharantha extract, matricaria extract, chrysanthemum flower extract, citrus unshiu peel extract, cnidium extract, coix seed extract, coltsfoot extract, comfrey leaf extract, crataegus extract, evening primrose oil, gambir extract, ganoderma extract, gardenia extract, gentian extract, geranium extract, ginkgo extract, grape leaf extract, crataegus extract, henna extract, honeysuckle extract, honeysuckle flower extract, hoelen extract, hops extract, horsetail extract, hydrangea extract, hypericum extract, isodonis extract, ivy extract, Japanese angelica extract, Japanese coptis extract, juniper extract, jujube extract, lady's mantle extract, lavender extract, lettuce extract, licorice extract, linden extract, Nthospermum extract, loquat extract, luffa extract, malloti extract, mallow extract, calendula extract, moutan bark extract, mistletoe extract, mukurossi extract, mugwort extract, mulberry root extract, nettle extract, nutmeg extract, orange extract, parsely extract, hydrolyzed conchiorin protein, peony root extract, peppermint extract, philodendron extract, pine cone extract, platycodon extract, polygonatum extract, rehmannia extract, rice bran extract, rhubarb extract, rose fruit extract, rosemary extract, royal jelly extract, safflower extract, saffron crocus extract, sambucus extract, saponaria extract, Sasa albo marginata extract, Saxifraga stolonifera extract, scutellaria root extract, Cortinellus shiitake extract, lithospermum extract, sophora extract, laurel extract, calamus root extract, swertia extract, thyme extract, linden extract, tomato extract, turmeric extract, uncaria extract, watercress extract, logwood extract, grape extract, white lily extract, rose hips extract, wild thyme extract, witch hazel extract, yarrow extract, yeast extract, yucca extract, zanthoxylum extract, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available herbal extracts useful herein include Polygonum multiflori extracts which are water soluble, and available from Institute of Occupational Medicine, CAPM, China National Light Industry, and Maruzen, and other herbal extracts listed above available from Maruzen. POLYPROPYLENE GLYCOL
Preferably, the Composition B of the present invention further comprises a polypropylene glycol. It is believed that polypropylene glycol, together with the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, can provide hair volume-up with improved fly-away control.
The polypropylene glycol can be included in the Composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%. The polypropylene glycol can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
The polypropylene glycol useful herein may has a weight average molecular weight of preferably from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, more preferably from about 1 ,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the polypropylene glycol herein deposits onto, or is absorbed into hair to act as a moisturizer buffer, and/or provides one or more other desirable hair conditioning benefits. As used herein, the term "polypropylene glycol" includes single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, and multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers. The general structure of branched polymers such as the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers herein are described, for example, in "Principles of Polymerization," pp. 17-19, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3rd ed., 1991).
The polypropylene glycol herein are typically polydisperse polymers. The polypropylene glycols useful herein have a polydispersity of from about 1 to about 2.5, preferably from about 1 to about 2, and more preferably from about 1 to about 1.5. As used herein, the term "polydispersity" indicates the degree of the molecular weight distribution of the polymer sample. Specifically, the polydispersity is a ratio, greater than 1, equal to the weight average molecular weight divided by the number average molecular weight. For a further discussion about polydispersity, see "Principles of Polymerization," pp. 20-24, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3rd ed., 1991).
The polypropylene glycol useful herein may be either water-soluble, water- insoluble, or may have a limited solubility in water, depending upon the degree of polymerization and whether other moieties are attached thereto. The desired solubility of the polypropylene glycol in water will depend in large part upon the form (e.g., leave-on, or rinse-off form) of the hair conditioning composition. The solubility in water of the polypropylene glycol herein may be chosen by the artisan according to a variety of factors. Accordingly, for a leave-on hair conditioning composition, it is preferred that the polypropylene glycol herein be a water- soluble polypropylene glycol. Solubility information is readily available from polypropylene glycol suppliers, such as Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan). However, the present invention may also take the form of a rinse-off hair conditioning composition. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that in such a composition, a water-soluble polypropylene glycol may be too easily washed away before it effectively deposits on hair and provides the desired benefit(s). For such a composition, a less soluble, or even a water-insoluble polypropylene glycol is therefore preferred. Accordingly, for a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, it is preferred that the polypropylene glycol herein has a solubility in water at 25 °C of less than about 1 g/100 g water, more preferably a solubility in water of less than about 0.5 g/100 g water, and even more preferably a solubility in water of less than about 0.1 g/100 g water.
Preferably the polypropylene glycol is selected from the group consisting of a single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, a multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of a single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of Formula I, below, a multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of
Formula II, below, and mixtures thereof.
Single-Polypropylene Glycol-Chain Segment Polymer Accordingly, a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
HO-(C3H60)aH (III), wherein a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably from about 20 to about
100, and more preferably from about 20 to about 40. The single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer useful herein is typically inexpensive, and is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei
(Osaka, Japan), Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), Calgon Chemical,
Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania,
USA), Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).
Multi-Polypropylene Glycol-Chain Segment Polymer
A highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
Figure imgf000039_0001
wherein n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably from about 0 to about 7, and more preferably from about 1 to about 4. In Formula IV, each R" is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C C30 alkyl, and preferably each R" is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C|-C4 alkyl. In Formula IV, each b is independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1 , and more preferably b = 0. Similarly, c and d are independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1. However, the total of b + c + d is at least about 2, preferably the total of b + c + d is from about 2 to about 3. Each e is independently a value of 0 or 1 , if n is from about 1 to about 4, then e is preferably equal to 1. Also in Formula IV, x, y, and z is independently a value of from about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, and more preferably from about 7 to about 100, where x + y + z is greater than about 20.
Examples of the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer of Formula IV which is especially useful herein includes polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether (n = 1 , R' = H, b = 0, c and d = 1 , e = 1 , and x, y, and z independently indicate the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol- chain segments; available as New Pol GP-4000, from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan), polypropylene trimethylol propane (n = 1 , R' = C2H5, b = 1 , c and d = 1 , e = 1 , and x, y, and z independently indicate the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol-chain segments), polyoxypropylene sorbitol (n = 4, each R' = H, b = 0, c and d = 1 , each e = 1 , and y, z, and each x independently indicate the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol- chain segments; available as New Pol SP-4000, from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan), and PPG-10 butanediol (n = 0, c and d = 2, and y + z = 10; available as Probutyl DB-10, from Croda, Inc., of Parsippany, New Jersey, U.S.A.).
In a preferred embodiment, one or more of the propylene repeating groups in the polypropylene glycol is an isopropyl oxide repeating group. More preferably one or more of the propylene oxide repeating groups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or the polypropylene glycol of Formula IV is an isopropyl oxide repeating group. Even more preferably, substantially all of the propylene oxide repeating groups of the polypropylene glycol of Formula III and/or the polypropylene glycol of Formula IV are isopropyl oxide repeating groups. Accordingly, a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
Figure imgf000040_0001
wherein a is defined as described above for Formula III. Similarly, a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:
Figure imgf000041_0001
wherein n, R", b, c, d, e, x, y, and z are defined as above, for Formula IV. It is recognized that the isopropyl oxide repeating groups may also correspond either alone, or in combination with the above depicted, to:
Figure imgf000041_0002
The polypropylene glycol useful herein is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan) as New pol PP-2000, New pol PP-4000, New pol GP-4000, and New pol SP-4000, from Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), from Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), from Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), from Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and from PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA). POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL
The composition B of present invention may further comprise a polyethylene glycol having the formula: H(OCH2CH2)n -OH wherein n has an average value of from 2,000 to 14,000, preferably from about 5,000 to about 9,000, more preferably from about 6,000 to about 8,000.
The polyethylene glycol can be included in the composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
The polyethylene glycol can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%. The polyethylene glycol described above is also known as a polyethylene oxide, and polyoxyethylene. Polyethylene glycols useful herein that are especially preferred are PEG-2M wherein n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10 from Union Carbide and as PEG- 2,000); PEG-5M wherein n has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and as Polyox WSR® N-80, both from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein n has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein n has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG-9M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 from Union Carbide); and PEG-14M wherein n has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 from Union Carbide). HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT ESTER OILS
The Composition B of the present invention may further comprise a high molecular weight ester oil. The a high molecular weight ester oil can be included in the Composition B at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
The a high molecular weight ester oil can be also included in the composition A at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
The high molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those which are water insoluble, have a molecular weight of at least about 500, preferably at least about 800, and are in liquid form at 25°C. Useful high molecular weight ester oils herein include pentaethytritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly α-olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "water insoluble" means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25°C; when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
The high molecular weight ester oil herein provides conditioning benefits such as moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that water insoluble oily material in general are capable of being deposited on the hair. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, because of its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil covers the surface of the hair and, as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces hair friction to deliver smoothness and manageability control to the hair. It is also believed that, because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturized feel, yet, because it is liquid, does not leave the hair feeling greasy. The high molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions.
Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula:
Figure imgf000043_0001
wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R\ R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200. Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula:
Figure imgf000043_0002
wherein R11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R11 is ethyl and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R11, R12, R13 and R14 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
Poly α-olefin oils useful herein are those having the following formula and having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cst, a molecular weight of from about 200 to about 60,000, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3;
Figure imgf000044_0001
wherein R31 is an alkyl having from about 4 to 14 carbons, preferably 4 to 10 carbons. Poly α-olefin oils having a molecular weight of at least about 800 are useful herein. Such high molecular weight poly α-olefin oils are believed to provide long lasting moisturized feel to the hair. Poly α-olefin oils having a molecular weight of less than about 800 are useful herein. Such low molecular weight poly α-olefin oils are believed to provide a smooth, light, clean feel to the hair.
Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 having the following formula:
Figure imgf000044_0002
wherein R21 is OH or CH3COO, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R21 is OH, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R21, R22, R23 and R24 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
Glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000044_0003
wherein R41, R42, and R43, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
Preferably, R41, R42, and R43, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R41, R42, and R43 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
Particularly useful pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol with tradenames
KAKPTI, KAKTTI, and Shin-nihon Rika with tradenames PTO, ENUJERUBU
TP3SO.
Particularly useful poly α-olefin oils herein include polydecenes with tradenames PURESYN 6 having a number average molecular weight of about
500 and PURESYN 100 having a number average molecular weight of about
3000 and PURESYN 300 having a number average molecular weight of about
6000 available from Mobil Chemical Co.
Particularly useful citrate ester oils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316 available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISC available from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 320 available from Bernel.
Particularly useful glyceryl ester oils herein include triisostearin with tradename SUN ESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku, triolein with tradename CITHROL GTO available from Croda Surfactants Ltd., trilinolein with tradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy, or tradename EFA-GLYCERIDES from Brooks.
RHEOLOGY MODIFIER
The Composition B of the present invention may further comprise a rheology modifier. The rheology modifier may be any polymer which increases the rheology of the composition, and which are compatible with the other polymers included in the composition, and do not negatively affect the benefits provided by the composition. Rheology modifiers particularly suitable in the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose are those available from Akzo Nobel with tradename
Elfacos CD481. ADDITIONAL CONDITIONING AGENT The compositions of the present invention may further contain an additional conditioning agent. Additional conditioning agents are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and the desired characteristic of the product. For example, in Composition A, components of cationic nature will be included in an amount which would not cause separation in view of the essential components of anionic nature. The additional conditioning agents herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 10%. High melting point fatty compound The high melting point compound described above can be included in the composition (Composition A) at a level by weight of, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1 %. The weight of the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is preferably greater than about 0.5 times, more preferably 1.0 times, the weight of the high melting point compound. Cationic surfactant
The Cationic surfactant described above can be included in the Composition A in an amount which would not cause separation in view of the essential components of anionic nature. Cationic Polymers Cationic polymers are useful herein. As used herein, the term "polymer" shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is a water soluble cationic polymer. By "water soluble" cationic polymer, what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C. The preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration.
The cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million. The cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof. Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as the water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also be used, as this list is not exclusive.
The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units. Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).
The cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer. For example, tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R88X wherein R88 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C, - C7 alkyl, more preferably a C, - C3 alkyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above.
Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C1 - C3 alkyls, more preferably C1 and C2 alkyls. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C, - C7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C, - C3, alkyls. The cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2- pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11 ) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256. Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
Figure imgf000048_0001
wherein: Z7 is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual, R89 is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof, R90, R91, and R92 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R90, R91 and R92) preferably being about 20 or less, and X is as previously described.
Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®.
Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series. Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581.
Particularly useful cationic polymers herein include Polyquatemium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-24, and mixtures thereof. Additional Oily Compounds
Additional oily compounds useful herein include fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives, and hydrocarbons. The additional oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile, and have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the additional oily compounds may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair. The additional oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the additional oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
The fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol. The fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
The fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives, include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropyl stearate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate and Oleth-2. Bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils and glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those which have a molecular weight of less than about 800, preferably less than about 500.
The hydrocarbons useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C2-6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350. Also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly α-olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available fatty alcohols and their derivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from Shin Ninon Rika, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol. Commercially available bulky ester oils useful herein include: trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Commercially available hydrocarbons useful herein include isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, and USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA.) Other Additional Components
The compositions of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate, antidandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione; and mixtures thereof. COMPOSITIONS
The compositions (Composition A) of the present invention have a suitable viscosity, preferably from about 1 ,000mm2s"1 to about 100,000mmV, more preferably from about 2,000mm2s"1 to about 50,000mm2s"1. The viscosity herein can be suitably measured at 2.0s"1 of shear rate after 1 minute of rotation.
The pH of the present composition is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 4.5 to about 7.5. Buffers and other pH adjusting agents can be included to achieve the desirable pH. PRODUCT FORMS The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, can be transparent or opaque, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
In one preferred embodiment, Composition A of the present invention is a leave-on product. The compositions of the present invention are preferably transparent, especially when leave-on products. What is meant by transparent, is that a black substance having the size of a 1cm X 1cm square can be detected by the naked eye through 1cm thickness of the present composition.
In one preferred embodiment, Composition B of the present invention is a rinse-off product. METHOD OF USE
The hair conditioning composition of the present invention are used in conventional ways to provide the conditioning and other benefits of the present invention. Such method of use depends upon the type of composition employed but generally involves providing hair, or a hair sample, having a bulk hair area, applying an effective amount of the product to the hair, and then drying the hair. Before drying, the hair conditioning composition may be either rinsed from the hair (as in the case of hair rinses), or allowed to remain on the hair (as in the case of gels, lotions, and creams). "Effective amount" means an amount sufficient enough to provide the conditioning benefits and desired increase in bulk hair volume. In general, from about 1 g to about 50 g is applied to the hair, and/or the scalp. The phrase "increase in bulk hair volume" as used herein is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable. On the other hand, increase in bulk hair volume as used herein relates to the volume increase of the hair as a whole while controlling fly-away of the hair.
During the applying step, the hair conditioning composition may be distributed throughout the hair, typically by rubbing or massaging the hair and scalp, or the composition may be selectively applied to certain parts of the hair. For a leave-on form, the hair conditioning composition is preferably applied to wet or damp hair prior to drying of the hair. After such hair conditioning compositions are applied to the hair, the hair is dried and styled in accordance with the preference of the user. In the alternative, it may be applied to already dry hair, and the hair is then combed or styled, and dried in accordance with the preference of the user. For a rinse-off form, the hair conditioning composition is preferably applied to wet or damp hair after shampooing. After such hair conditioning compositions are applied to the hair, the hair is rinsed. Then, the hair is dried and styled in accordance with the preference of the user. IMAGE ANALYSIS PROTOCOL
The Image Analysis Protocol is a system and procedure which is designed to digitally measure and analyze the components of bulk hair area. This protocol provides a quantifiable, repeatable method for accurately distinguishing, measuring, and comparing bulk hair area before and after treatment with a hair conditioning composition. This bulk hair area directly correlate with bulk hair volume. The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention provide a significant, noticeable increase in the bulk hair area, preferably by at least about 5% as measured by the method described, below.
The phrase "increase in the bulk hair volume" as used herein is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable. On the other hand, increase in the bulk hair volume as used herein relates to volume increase of the hair as a whole while controlling fly-away of the hair. Referring to the drawing, Fig. 1 shows a top view of a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis System useful herein. The Image Analysis System, 10, coasts of a white screen, 12, lighting equipment, 14, a sample holder, 16, a high-resolution digital camera, 18, and a personal computer, 20. The sample holder, 16, is placed between the white screen, 12, and the high- resolution digital camera, 18. The sample holder, 16, is typically a clip or clamp which stably suspends a hair sample, 22, about 40 cm in front of the white screen, 12. The sample holder, 16, is typically about 80 cm from the high- resolution digital camera, 18, and positioned above the high-resolution camera's field of view, so that it is not visible in the captured images. The white screen, 12, is a matte-finish (e.g., non-glare) white-colored screen which is illuminated to provide a constant and repeatable background against which the hair sample, 22, is measured. As the difference between bulk hair area and flyaway hair area is judged according to the brightness of the image (see below), it is important that the hair sample be photographed in front of a background which has a constant brightness. As seen in Fig. 1 , the preferred lighting equipment, 14, consists of twin photography lights located on each side of the sample, and pointing towards the white screen. Each of these lights is preferably a twin florescent tube light contained within a lighting fixture, and is typically from about 20 cm to about 60 cm to the side of the sample holder, 16. This places them far enough away from the hair sample, 22, so that they are not visible by the high-resolution digital camera, 18. This assures that the captured image will only include the image of the hair sample, 22, and will not include, for example, the back-side of the lighting equipment, 14. Therefore, the lighting equipment, 14, should not interfere with or block the picture to be taken. Also, in such a configuration, the hair sample, 22, is not directly illuminated by the lighting equipment, 14. Instead, light is first reflected from the white screen, 12, and then passes through the hair sample, 22, in order to reach the high-resolution digital camera, 18. The high-resolution digital camera, 18, is focused on the hair sample, 22, and not the white screen, 12. For ease of use, the high-resolution digital camera, 18, is connected to a personal computer, 20, and automatically transfers the captured image to the computer's imaging software. Such an arrangement provides a precise picture of the profile of the hair sample, 22, and avoids any glare and/or shadows which could interfere with measurement and analysis of the hair sample, 22. Preferably, the Image Analysis System should be located away from air currents or other forces which would disturb the hair sample, and is in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, so as to ensure repeatable results. The high-resolution digital camera (e.g., Model HC-2500 3-CCD from Fujifilm Co., of Tokyo, Japan) has a resolution of at least 1280 horizontal pixels, and 1000 vertical pixels. The high-resolution digital camera is calibrated to a linear gain, so that the incremental difference between all brightness values (an 8-bit, 0-255 brightness scale) is equal. Such a calibration may be achieved via, for example, utilizing a standard gray-scale calibration cell and/or the high- resolution digital camera's internal look-up-table (LUT). For calibration purposes, the white screen (when lit with the lighting equipment) should have a brightness value of greater than about 245, preferably from about 250 to about 255.
The typical hair sample consists of 15 cm (5 g) straight black Asian hair switches (available from Kawamuraya Co., Osaka, Japan) or straight brown Caucasian hair switches (available from International Hair Importers & products Inc., Bellerose, New York, U.S.A.). The hair area increase benefits, and the corresponding hair volume increase benefits, of the present invention are applicable to all types of hair switches. Further, it has been shown that the results achieved with hair switches are comparable to the results achieved during actual use on people. The hair sample is prepared as follows:
1 ) Wet hair sample with warm water (38 °C) for 10 seconds.
2) Apply 1 ml of ammonium lauryl sulfate solution to the hair sample and lather for 30 seconds.
3) Rinse the hair sample for 30 seconds. 4) For treated hair: Apply 1 ml of shampoo composition of "Sham. 1"
(described below) to the hair sample and lather for 30 seconds.
5) For treated hair: Rinse the hair sample for 30 seconds.
6) For treated hair: Apply 1 ml of a hair conditioning composition to be tested to the hair sample. 7) For treated hair: Rinse off the hair sample for 10 seconds. 8) Comb through the front of the hair sample 5 times.
9) Comb through the back of the hair sample 5 times.
10) Squeeze off excess water from the hair sample and make the cross- section round. 11) Leave the hair sample in a 21 °C / 65% relative humidity room and dry for 24 hours. 12) The hair sample is then ready to be measured by the Image Analysis
System. This procedure is suitable for analysis of the effect of hair conditioning composition for rinse-off use. Steps 4 through 7 are only performed for the treated hair samples. To compare the effect of a hair conditioning composition on the bulk hair area, an "untreated picture" is first taken of a hair sample, and then a "treated picture" is taken. The untreated and treated bulk hair areas shown in the pictures, are then compared. Typically, the same hair switch is first used for the untreated hair sample, and then used for the treated hair sample, according to the procedure described above. Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.
Once a hair sample (either treated, or untreated), 22, is prepared, it is placed on the sample holder, 16, in front of the white screen, 12. The distance from the high-resolution digital camera, 18, and the hair sample, 22, should be the same for both the untreated and treated pictures. For both the untreated and treated pictures, the hair sample is aligned so that the widest profile (according to the bottom end of the hair sample) is captured by the high-resolution digital camera. This alignment approximates the way hair is arranged on the head, and therefore provides the most accurate view of the effect on hair area (and therefore hair volume), after treatment. This also assures an accurate measurement of the bulk hair area increase effects.
Once the hair is essentially motionless, an 8-bit, gray-scale picture is taken with the high-resolution digital camera, 18. Typically, the high-resolution digital camera, 18, assigns each pixel a brightness value of from 0 (pure black) to 255 (pure white). The picture is then transferred to the personal computer, 20. Alternatively, but less preferably, the personal computer may assign each pixel a brightness value from 0 to 255. Such a picture is also referred to as a "captured image," and may be saved electronically as, for example, a TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) file, for future reference. In the captured image, each hair sample appears as gray-to-black on a white background. The imaging software (e.g., Optimas v. 6.2, available from Media Cybernetics of Silver Springs, Maryland, U.S.A.) then analyzes the captured image, pixel-by-pixel. The imaging software uses the brightness value assigned to each pixel by the camera to classify each pixel as either black (brightness value = 0 - 120), gray (brightness value = 121 - 235), or white (brightness value = 236 - 255). The imaging software then defines "bulk hair" in the captured image as the largest continuous region bounded by black lines. The "flyaway hair" is defined as black, gray, and white regions bounded by one or more gray lines, excluding the bulk hair. The term "bounded" as used herein with respect to the imaging software indicates that the referred-to- area is completely surrounded by at least one line of the specified shade.
The imaging software then calculates the area of each region, typically in cm2, to find the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area. The total hair area is the sum of the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area. Thus, the bulk hair area and/or the flyaway hair area may also be calculated as a percentage of the total hair area. In a preferred embodiment, the imaging software automatically sets the untreated total hair area equal to a value of 1.0, and normalizes the other values, accordingly. The imaging software may also outline and/or color code the bulk hair area and/or flyaway hair area for easy reference. The increase in hair volume after treatment is based on comparing the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreated hair samples by hair conditioning composition of the present invention, to the data obtained from analyzing the treated and untreated hair samples by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control" described below. Typically, the same hair switch is first used for treatment by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control", and then used for treatment by the hair conditioning composition of the present invention. Using the same hair switch minimizes sample-to-sample variations.
The hair areas are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area before treated by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control"(UBAcont) and the untreated bulk hair area before treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention (UBAinv). These are then compared to the calculated hair areas for the treated bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of "Cond. control"(TBAcont) and the treated bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention (TBAinv). The increase in bulk hair area after treated by hair conditioning composition of the present invention corresponds to a increase in the bulk hair volume, and is calculated according to the following equation:
Bulk hair area increase = 100 x [ (TBAinv/UBAinv) -1 ] (TBAcont/UBAcont)
A given hair conditioning composition (or control) is typically tested on at least three separate hair samples. The bulk hair area increase are then calculated for each hair sample, and an average bulk hair area increase are calculated.
In a preferred embodiment of the Image Analysis Protocol, two pictures of each treated and untreated hair sample are taken. The first picture corresponds to the widest profile of the hair sample, while the second picture corresponds to the most narrow profile of the hair sample, which is typically a 90 ° rotation from the widest profile. Then, average values are calculated for the untreated bulk hair area and treated bulk hair area. These average values are then employed in the above equations. Such a procedure is especially useful with hair samples which are slightly curved, due to their natural contours, or because of washing.
Figure imgf000058_0001
Figure imgf000059_0001
Definitions of Components
*1 Cocamidopropylbetaine: Tago Betain F available from TH Goldschmidt.
Panthenol: Available from Roche.
*3 Panthenyl ethyl ether: Available from Roche. *4 Cetyl alcohol: Konol series available from Shin Nihon Rika. *5 Silicone blend: SE 76 available from General Electric. *6 Polyquaternium-10: UCARE Polymer LR400 available from Amerchol. *7 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine: Amidoamine MPS available from Nikko. *8 I-Glutamic acid: Available from Ajinomoto *9 Steary alcohol: Konol series available from Shin Nihon Rika. *10 Dimethicone/Cyclomethicone: 85%/15% mixture of D5 cyclomethicone and dimethicone gum available from General Electric Co.
EXAMPLES
The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name, or otherwise defined below.
All percentages herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions, and all such weight percentages as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
Figure imgf000060_0001
Figure imgf000061_0001
Figure imgf000062_0001
Figure imgf000063_0001
Figure imgf000064_0001
Definitions of Components
*1 Acrylic acid alkyl acrylate copolymer 1 : PEMULEN TR-1 available from
B.F.Goodrich *2 Acrylic acid alkyl acrylate copolymer 2: PEMULEN TR-2 available from
B.F.Goodrich *3 PolyvinylpyrrolidoneΛ inyl acetate copolymer 1 : Luviskol 73W with a mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer 7:3 available from BASF *4 Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Vinyl acetate copolymer 2: Luviskol 64W with a mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer 6:4 available from BASF *5 Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Vinyl acetate copolymer 3: Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Vinyl acetate/Vinyl propionate copolymer having tradename Luviskol VAP343E with a mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer and vinyl propionate monomer 3:4:3 available from BASF *6 Triethanolamine: Triethanolamine available from Nippon Shokubai *7 Cetyl alcohol: Konol series available from Shinnihon Rika *8 Stearyl alcohol: Konol series available from Shinnihon Rika *9 Behenyl alcohol: Behenyl alcohol 65, 80: available from Nikko Chemical *10 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol: DC-1403 available from Dow Corning *11 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol: DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning *12 Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone: Gum/Cyclomethicone blend available from
Shin-Etsu *13 Cyclomethicone: DC345 available from Dow Corning
*14 Polyquatemium-39: Merquat Plus 3330 available from Calgon *15 Polyquaternium-47: Merquat 2001 available from Calgon *16 Carbomer 1 : Carbopol 981 available from B.F.Goodrich *17 Carbomer 2: Carbopol Ultrez 10 available from B.F.Goodrich *18 Acrylates/Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer: Acrysol 22 available from
Rohm and Hass *19 Propylene glycol: Available from BASF *20 Hexylene glycol: Hexylene glycol available from Mitsui Toatsu *21 Polyethylene glycol 200: Carbowax PEG200 available from Union Carbide *22 Polygonum multiflori extract: Polygonum multiflori extract obtained form
Occupational Medicine, CAPM. *23 Vitamin E: Emix-d Available from Eisai *24 Panthenol: Panthenol Available from Roche
*25 Benzophenone-4: Uvnul MS-40 available from BASF *26 Octyl methoxycinnamate: Parasol MCX available from Roche *27 Visible particles 1 : Unispheres AGE-527 available from Induchem *28 Visible particles 2: Unispheres YE-501 available from Induchem. *29 Stearic acid: Stearic Acid available from Shinnihon Rika *30 Cholesterol: NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko *31 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose: Polysurf 67 available from Aqualon *32 Hydroxyethylcellulose: NATROSOL obtained form Herculus *33 Polyquaternium-22: Merquat 280 available from Calgon *34 PEG-2M: Polyox PEG 2M available from Amerchol.
*35 Dimethicone: Viscasil available from General Electric Company
*36 Alkyl silicone: Silicone alkyl grafted copolymer DC2502 available from Dow
Corning *37 Alkyl silicone emulsion: Alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion DC2-2845 from Dow Corning
*38 Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride: INCROQUAT TMC-80 available from
Croda *39 Polyquaternium-24: Polymer LM-200 available from Amerchol *40 Pentaerythritol tetraoleate: Pentaerythritol Tetraoleate available from Shinnihon Rika
*41 Aloe extract: Aloe Extract Vera obtained from lchimaru Farcos. *42 Ginseng: Ginseng available from Occupational Medicine, CAPM *43 Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer 1 : Copolymer 937 available from ISP. *44 Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer 2: Copolymer 845 available from ISP. *45 Polyvinylpyrrolidone/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer 3:
Polyquaternium-11 having tradename Luviquat PQ-11 available from BASF. *46 Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine: SAPDMA available from Lnolex. *47 l-Glutamic acid: Available from Ajinomoto. *48 Citric acid: Available from ADM.
*49 Ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride: Available from Witco Chemicals.
*50 Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride: Available from Witco Chemicals.
*51 Oleyl alcohol: Available from Shinnihon Rika. *52 Dimethicone/Cyclomethicone: 85%/15% mixture of D5 cyclomethicone and dimethicone gum available from General Electric Co.
*53 Silicone fluid: TSF 451 available from General Electric Co.
*54 Polypropylene glycol: New Pol PP-2000 available from Sanyo Kasei.
*55 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate: KAK PTI obtained by Kokyu alcohol. *56 Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol: mixture sold as Polawax NF obtained by Croda Chemicals.
*57 Glycerylmonostearate: Available from Stepan Chemicals.
*58 Hydroxyethylethylcellulose: Elfacos CD 481 available from Akzo Nobel
*59 Kathon CG: Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone available from Rohm & Haas.
Method of Preparation
For Examples 1 through 12, the polymeric materials such as the carboxylic acid/alkyl carboxylate copolymer, polyvinylpyrroridone/vinyl acetate copolymer, amphoteric conditioning polymer, and additional viscosity modifier, if present, are dispersed in water at room temperature, mixed by vigorous agitation, and heated to 50°C. The high melting point compounds, if included, is added to the mixture with agitation at above 70°C by either melting such components or by dissolving such components. Then the neutralizing agent is added to the mixture. After neutralizing, the mixture is cooled to below 40°C, and then the remaining components are added to the mixture with agitation.
Examples 1 through 12 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for leave-on use. These examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide increase in bulk hair volume, and can also provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, softness, and reduction of friction, are easy to apply on the hair, and leave the hair and hands with a clean feeling.
For Examples 13 through 18, deionized water is heated to 85 °C, and cationic surfactants and high melting point fatty compounds are mixed into the water to form a gel matrix. The mixture is maintained at a temperature of about
85 °C for about 5 minutes, until the components are homogenized, and no solids are observed. The mixture is then cooled to about 55 °C and maintained at this temperature, until a gel matrix forms. Then, vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and other remaining components are added to the gel matrix with agitation.
Examples 13 through 18 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for rinse-off use. These examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide increase in bulk hair volume, and can also provide improved conditioning benefits to the hair such as smoothness, moisturized feel and fly-away control.
The composition of Example 13 can provide hair area increase in the bulk hair area by 5% measured by the Image Analysis Protocol.
It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. A hair conditioning composition comprising:
(1 ) a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer;
(2) a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer; and
(3) an aqueous carrier.
2. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 1 wherein the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer is a polypyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer.
3. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 2 wherein the polypyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer comprises a vinylpyrrolidone monomer and a vinyl acetate monomer, and a mole ratio of vinylpyrrolidone monomer to vinyl acetate monomer is from about 5:5 to about 8:2.
4. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 1 further comprising a silicone compound.
5. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 4 wherein the silicone compound is selected from silicone gums, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.
6. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 1 further comprising an amphoteric conditioning polymer.
7. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 1 further comprising a humectant.
8. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 1 further comprising an additional viscosity modifier.
9. A hair conditioning composition comprising by weight:
(1) from about 0.01% to about 10% of a carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer;
(2) from about 0.01 % to about 10% of a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer; (3) from about 0.1 % to about 40% of a silicone compound;
(4) from about 0.01 % to about 10% of an amphoteric conditioning polymer;
(5) from about 0.1 % to about 20% of a humectant; and
(6) an aqueous carrier.
10. A hair conditioning composition comprising by weight:
(1) a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and water; and (2) a vinylpyrrolidone polymer.
11. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10, wherein the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer is a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.
12. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 11 , wherein the vinylpyrrolidone copolymer is polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer.
13. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10, wherein the cationic surfactant comprises: an amidoamine having the following general formula:
R1 CONH (CH2)m N (R2)2 wherein Rl is a residue of C<j -| to C24 fatty acids, R2 is a C-j to C4 alkyl, and m is an integer from 1 to 4; and an acid selected from the group consisting of -glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, -glutamic acid hydrochloride, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof.
14. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10 further comprising a silicone compound.
15. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10 further comprising a polypropylene glycol.
16. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10 further comprising a low melting point oil having a melting point of less than 25°C.
17. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 16 wherein the low melting point oil is selected from the group consisting of:
(a) pentaerythritol ester oils having a molecular weight of at least about 800, and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000070_0001
wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons;
(b) trimethylol ester oils having a molecular weight of at least about 800, and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000070_0002
wherein R11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons;
(c) poly α-olefin oils derived from 1 -alkene monomers having from about 6 to about 16 carbons, the poly α-olefin oils having a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cst, a molecular weight of from about 200 to about 60,000, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3;
(d) citrate ester oils having a molecular weight of at least about 500, and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000070_0003
wherein R21 is OH or CH3COO, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons;
(e) glyceryl ester oils having a molecular weight of at least about 500, and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000071_0001
wherein R41, R42, and R43, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; and mixtures thereof.
18. The hair conditioning composition according to Claim 10 further comprising a polyethylene glycol having the formula:
H(OCH2CH2)n -OH wherein n has an average value of from 2,000 to 14,000.
19. The hair conditioning composition of Claim 10, wherein the composition increases bulk hair area by at least about 5% according to an Image Analysis Protocol.
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EP1800659B1 (en) 2005-12-22 2017-09-27 L'Oréal Cosmetic composition comprising at least one cationic polyvinyllactam, at least one fatty alcohol and at least one polyol, method for treatment of keratin fibres and use
US9089491B2 (en) 2008-11-26 2015-07-28 L'oréal Cosmetic compositions with a spongy texture
US9198849B2 (en) 2013-07-03 2015-12-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampoo composition comprising low viscosity emulsified silicone polymers
WO2017167579A1 (en) 2016-03-30 2017-10-05 Beiersdorf Ag Hair conditioning composition containing pentaerythritol ester and ppg alkyl ether
EP3554461B1 (en) 2016-12-16 2021-03-24 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising solid fatty substances and a gelling polymer
WO2020061556A1 (en) * 2018-09-21 2020-03-26 Isp Investments Llc Lamellar gel based personal care compositions, process for preparing the same and method of use thereof
US20210338539A1 (en) * 2018-09-21 2021-11-04 Isp Investments Llc Lamellar gel based personal care compositions, process for preparing the same and method of use thereof
US12226505B2 (en) 2018-10-25 2025-02-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions having enhanced deposition of surfactant-soluble anti-dandruff agents
WO2024064644A1 (en) * 2022-09-22 2024-03-28 The Procter & Gamble Company Reduction of oil transfer from scalp to hair with increasing polarity of hair

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WO2001074309A1 (en) 2001-10-11

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