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WO2000057743A2 - Monture de pierres précieuses - Google Patents

Monture de pierres précieuses Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2000057743A2
WO2000057743A2 PCT/ZA2000/000048 ZA0000048W WO0057743A2 WO 2000057743 A2 WO2000057743 A2 WO 2000057743A2 ZA 0000048 W ZA0000048 W ZA 0000048W WO 0057743 A2 WO0057743 A2 WO 0057743A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
gemstone
jewellery piece
metallic
hollow jewellery
attachment region
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/ZA2000/000048
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2000057743A3 (fr
Inventor
Anthony John Bond
Robert James Bond
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laser Optronic Technologies Pty Ltd
Original Assignee
Laser Optronic Technologies Pty Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laser Optronic Technologies Pty Ltd filed Critical Laser Optronic Technologies Pty Ltd
Priority to AU37755/00A priority Critical patent/AU3775500A/en
Publication of WO2000057743A2 publication Critical patent/WO2000057743A2/fr
Publication of WO2000057743A3 publication Critical patent/WO2000057743A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C39/00—Shaping by casting, i.e. introducing the moulding material into a mould or between confining surfaces without significant moulding pressure; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C39/02—Shaping by casting, i.e. introducing the moulding material into a mould or between confining surfaces without significant moulding pressure; Apparatus therefor for making articles of definite length, i.e. discrete articles
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D7/00—Electroplating characterised by the article coated
    • C25D7/005—Jewels; Clockworks; Coins
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C2793/00—Shaping techniques involving a cutting or machining operation
    • B29C2793/0009—Cutting out
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C2793/00—Shaping techniques involving a cutting or machining operation
    • B29C2793/009—Shaping techniques involving a cutting or machining operation after shaping
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29K—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES B29B, B29C OR B29D, RELATING TO MOULDING MATERIALS OR TO MATERIALS FOR MOULDS, REINFORCEMENTS, FILLERS OR PREFORMED PARTS, e.g. INSERTS
    • B29K2995/00—Properties of moulding materials, reinforcements, fillers, preformed parts or moulds
    • B29K2995/0037—Other properties
    • B29K2995/0094—Geometrical properties

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the setting of gemstones and, in particular, to the setting of gemstones in hollow jewellery pieces.
  • the invention relates to a system and to a method for setting gemstones in hollow jewellery pieces and to a jewellery piece having a gemstone set therein by means of the method.
  • Gemstones are set in jewellery pieces by means of claws or by means of invisible settings, also known as "pavPrinter coder'e'” settings.
  • the latter class of setting is used.
  • This is an invisible setting in which a gemstone is placed in a recess in the jewellery piece such that the girdle, or position of greatest cross-section, of the gemstone is just below the surface of the jewellery piece. The surface of the jewellery piece adjacent the gemstone is then worked over the girdle to cause the gemstone to be gripped securely as illustrated in Figure 1.
  • invisible settings have been devised in which the gemstone is held in position on a jewellery piece by means of a co-operating outwardly directed projection on the jewellery piece, and a circumferential groove on the girdle of the gemstone, as indicated in Rgure 2.
  • the projection and groove may extend around the entire circumference of the gemstone or may extend over a plurality of circumferential segments.
  • a method for setting a gemstone in a hollow jewellery piece which includes the steps of: providing at least one metallic attachment region secured to a surface of the gemstone; and bonding the at least one attachment region to a shell of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • Further features of the invention provide for providing the at least one metallic attachment region by: metallizing at least a portion of the surface of the gemstone; and electrodepositing a layer of metal on the metallized portion of the surface of the gemstone, alternatively by: providing a metallic rod of cross-section conforming to the profile of at least a portion of the gemstone; and forming the metallic rod to abut, along its length, the said portion of the gemstone.
  • Still further features of the invention provide for metallizing an at least part-circumferential portion of the surface of the gemstone, for metallizing a circumferential portion of the surface of the gemstone, for metallizing the circumferential portion of the gemstone located at its girdle, and for metallizing a groove cut into the surface of the gemstone and extending over the at least the part-circumferential portion of the surface thereof.
  • Yet further features of the invention provide for forming the metallic rod into the groove, for forming the metallic rod into the circumferential groove as a circumferential band, and for bonding the ends of the circumferential band together.
  • the method to include the additional step of drawing the rod prior to forming, to have a cross-section conforming to the profile of the at least part-circumferential portion of the gemstone.
  • the method to include the further steps of: providing a CAD model of the hollow jewellery piece; rapid prototyping a three-dimensional pattern of the hollow jewellery piece from the CAD model, the three-dimensional pattern having a recess adapted to accommodate the gemstone therein; placing the gemstone having the at least one metallic attachment region on the surface thereof, into the recess on the pattern; and electrodepositing a layer of metal on the surface of the three-dimensional pattern to form the shell of the hollow jewellery piece, with the shell being bonded to the at least one metallic attachment region on the surface of the gemstone.
  • the method includes the further steps of: providing a CAD model of the hollow jewellery piece; deriving from the CAD model forming tools for forming a number of metallic component parts from which the hollow jewellery piece is to be assembled; forming the metallic component parts, at least one component part having an aperture therethrough adapted to accommodate the gemstone therein; assembling the number of formed metallic component parts to form the shell of the hollow jewellery piece; placing the gemstone having the at least one metallic attachment region on the surface thereof, into the aperture on the shell of the hollow jewellery piece; and bonding the gemstone to the hollow jewellery piece by welding the at least one metallic attachment region on the surface of the gemstone to the shell of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the invention extends to a system for setting a gemstone in a hollow jewellery piece, comprising: means for providing at least one metallic attachment region secured to a surface of the gemstone; and bonding means for bonding the at least one attachment region to a shell of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the means for providing the at least one metallic attachment region to include: metallizing means for metallizing at least a portion of the surface of the gemstone; and an electrodeposition facility for electrodepositing a layer of metal on the metallized portion of the surface of the gemstone, alternatively, means for providing a metallic rod of cross-section conforming to the profile of at least a portion of the gemstone; and forming means for forming the metallic rod to abut, along its length, the said portion of the gemstone.
  • Still further features of the invention provide for the metallizing means to metallize an at least part-circumferential portion of the surface of the gemstone, for the metallizing means to metallize a circumferential portion on the surface of the gemstone, for the circumferential portion on the surface of the gemstone to be located at its girdle, for the system to include a cutting facility for cutting a groove into the surface of the gemstone extending over the at least part-circumferential portion of the surface to be metallized, and for the cutting facility to be a laser cutting machine.
  • Yet further features of the invention provide for the forming means to form the metallic rod into the groove, for the forming to form the metallic rod into the circumferential groove as a circumferential band, and for the bonding means to bond the ends of the circumferential band together.
  • the system to include: means for producing a CAD model of the hollow jewellery piece; a rapid prototyping facility arranged to produce, from the CAD model, a three-dimensional pattern of the hollow jewellery piece, the three-dimensional pattern having a recess adapted to accommodate the gemstone therein; and a handling facility for placing the gemstone having the metallic attachment region into the recess on the three-dimensional pattern.
  • the bonding means to be the electrodeposition facility which is arranged to eiectrodeposit a layer of metal on the surface of the three-dimensional pattern to form a shell of the hollow jewellery piece with the shell being bonded to the at least one metallic attachment region on the surface of the gemstone.
  • the rapid prototyping facility to produce the three-dimensional pattern of the hollow jewellery piece from the CAD model by any one of the techniques of stereo lithography, fused deposition modelling, laminated object manufacturing, selective laser sintering, or other rapid prototyping systems.
  • the system to include: means for producing a CAD model of the hollow jewellery piece; means for producing, from the CAD model, forming tools for forming a number of metallic component parts from which the hollow jewellery piece is to be assembled; forming means for forming the component parts of the hollow jewellery piece by utilizing the forming tools, at least one component part having an aperture therethrough adapted to accommodate the gemstone therein; an assembly facility for assembling the formed component parts together to produce the hollow jewellery piece; and a handling facility for placing the gemstone having the metallic attachment region into the aperture in the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the bonding facility prefferably be a laser welding robot for welding the metallic attachment region on the gemstone to the shell of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • FIG. 1 is a sectional view of a gemstone set in a jewellery piece by means of a prior art pave' setting
  • FIG. 2 is a sectional view of a gemstone set in a jewellery piece by means of an alternative prior art pave' setting
  • FIG. 3 is a sectional view of a first embodiment of a gemstone with a circumferential band, according to the invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a sectional view of a second embodiment of a gemstone with a circumferential band, according to the invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a flow diagram of the steps involved in a first method for setting a gemstone in an item of hollow jewellery, according to the invention.
  • FIG.6 is a flow diagram of the steps involved in a second method for setting a gemstone in an item of hollow jewellery, according to the invention DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
  • a system for mounting a gemstone into an item of hollow jewellery is indicated generally by reference numeral (1).
  • the system (1) includes a cutting facility in the form of a laser cutting machine (2), an electroforming bath (3), a production facility (4) for producing hollow jewellery pieces, and a bonding facility (5), which will be described in greater detail below.
  • the laser cutting machine (2) well known in the art and is commonly applied to cut and round diamonds, this latter operation also being known as "bruting”.
  • a gemstone (6) which is to be mounted in a hollow jewellery piece (not shown) is placed in a universally movable jig (not shown) under the laser of the laser cutting machine (2) and a circumferential groove (7) is cut into the surface of the gemstone around the girdle thereof.
  • the groove (7) is then metallized at (8) by the application of a silver solution or a silver spray thereto and the partially metallized gemstone is placed in the electroforming bath (3) containing a gold potassium cyanide solution.
  • An electrical current is then applied between the metallized groove (7) of the gemstone (6), and a cathode electrode (not shown) immersed in the electroforming bath, to cause electrodeposition of gold in the circumferential groove (7).
  • the electrodeposition is continued until a sufficiently thick circumferential band of gold (9) has been deposited in the circumferential groove (7) on the gemstone (6), as indicated in detail in Figure 3.
  • a three dimensional pattern (not shown) of a desired hollow jewellery piece is produced from a three-dimensional CAD model of the jewellery piece by means of a rapid prototyping facility in the form of a Stereo Lithography (SL) machine.
  • SL Stereo Lithography
  • a cavity is formed in the pattern during the stereo lithography process to accommodate the gemstone therein such that the electroformed circumferential gold band on the gemstone protrudes just above the surface of the three-dimensional pattern.
  • the surface of three-dimensional pattern (not shown) is then metallized in the manner described above, secured to a support structure also known as a "tree", and then immersed in the bonding facility (5) in the form of the electroforming bath (3).
  • Gold is then electrodeposited in a conventional manner on the surface of the metallized three-dimensional pattern until a sufficiently thick layer of gold has been deposited on the surface of the pattern to form the shell of the hollow jewellery piece according to the requirements of a particular application.
  • the layer of gold electrodeposited on the surface of the three-dimensional pattern (not shown) will bond with the circumferential gold band on the gemstone (6), thus holding the gemstone securely in place in the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the stamped component parts of the hollow jewellery piece are then placed in a jig (not shown) to hold the parts together in a correct configuration to form the item of hollow jewellery.
  • the jig is then brought into position under the bonding facility (5) in the form of a multi-axis laser welding robot and the component parts of the hollow jewellery piece are laser-welded together.
  • a suitably-sized aperture is stamped into a relevant component part at the forming stage thereof.
  • the aperture is sized such that when the gemstone (6) is placed therein, the circumferential gold band on the gemstone abuts the periphery of the aperture.
  • the assembled hollow jewellery piece is placed in a jig under the laser of the multi-axis welding robot (5).
  • the circumferentially-banded gemstone is carried by a robot handling system and placed in position in the aperture on the shell of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the assembly comprising the hollow jewellery piece and the gemstone is then moved under the laser of the welding robot where the circumferential gold band is laser-welded to the periphery of the aperture of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • the circumferential groove and the electrodeposited metallic band may be circumferentially discontinuous and comprise a plurality of circumferential segments.
  • the necessity for a circumferential groove on the gemstone can be eliminated by metallizing the circumference of the gemstone at its girdle, and electrodepositing the gold band directly thereon, as indicated in Figure 4.
  • the three-dimensional pattern of the hollow jewellery piece can be rapid-prototyped by any one of the techniques of Fused Deposition Modelling, Laminated Object Manufacturing, Selective Laser Sintering, or other rapid prototyping systems as alternatives to Stereo Lithography.
  • a system (1) for setting a gemstone in a hollow jewellery piece comprises a cutting facility in the form of a laser cutting machine (2) metallizing means (3) for metallizing any desired portion of the surface of the gemstone, a drawing means (4) arranged to draw a metallic rod down to a desired cross-section, and a bonding facility (5) which will be described in greater detail below.
  • a gemstone (6) which is to be mounted in a hollow jewellery piece, is placed in a universally movable jig (not shown) under the laser cutting machine (2), and a circumferential groove (7) is cut into the surface of the gemstone around the girdle thereof.
  • the groove (7) is then metallized by the metallizing means (3) by application of a silver solution or a silver spray thereto.
  • a metallic rod is drawn down by the drawing means (4) to a shape having a cross-section conforming substantially to the profile of the metallized portion of the gemstone (6).
  • the drawn metallic rod is then formed in the metallized groove on the gemstone and is bonded to the metallized surface of the gemstone by spot-welding by means of the bonding facility (5) in the form of a laser welding machine.
  • the banded gemstone is placed in a suitably-sized aperture in the hollow jewellery piece such that, when the gemstone is placed therein, the metallic rod bonded to the gemstone abuts the periphery of the aperture.
  • the assembly comprising the hollow jewellery piece and the gemstone is then moved under the laser of the laser welding machine (5), where the circumferential metallic rod is laser-welded to the periphery of the aperture of the hollow jewellery piece.
  • this method eliminates the step of electrodepositing a circumferential gold band in the groove of the gemstone, as is described in the first embodiment of the invention, thereby shortening the production time required to set a gemstone in an item of hollow jewellery.
  • the circumferential groove and the metallic rod may be circumferentially discontinuous and comprise a plurality of circumferential segments.
  • the necessity for a circumferential groove on the gemstone can be eliminated by metallizing the circumference of the gemstone at its girdle, and bonding the appropriately drawn metallic rod directly thereto as illustrated in Figure 4.
  • the metallizing step may be eliminated altogether by forming the metallic rod into the circumferential groove and joining its ends together by means of spot welding.
  • the methods described above enable a gemstone to be securely mounted in an item of hollow jewellery, without detracting from the aesthetic beauty of the gemstone. Further, the methods are applicable to the mounting of all types of gemstones, including diamonds and other precious and semi-precious stones.
  • the invention therefore provides a rapid, simple and secure way of setting gemstones in items of hollow jewellery.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Toys (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un système permettant de sertir une pierre précieuse dans une pièce de bijouterie creuse. Ce système comporte un dispositif servant à créer une zone de fixation métallique assujettie à la surface de la pierre précieuse et un dispositif de liaison servant à fixer la zone de fixation métallique sur une coquille de la pièce de bijouterie creuse. Pour créer la zone de fixation métallique, on métallise une partie circonférentielle de la surface de la pierre précieuse et on dépose, par électrolyse, une couche de métal sur la partie circonférentielle métallisée de la surface de la pierre précieuse. Dans une variante, on crée la zone de fixation métallique au moyen d'une tige métallique de section transversale adaptée au profil d'une partie circonférentielle de la pierre précieuse, laquelle tige métallique est adaptée pour, sur sa longueur, buter contre la partie circonférentielle de la pierre précieuse.
PCT/ZA2000/000048 1999-03-26 2000-03-20 Monture de pierres précieuses Ceased WO2000057743A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU37755/00A AU3775500A (en) 1999-03-26 2000-03-20 Setting of gemstones

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ZA992345 1999-03-26
ZA99/2345 1999-03-26
ZA99/6374 1999-10-08
ZA996374 1999-10-08

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2000057743A2 true WO2000057743A2 (fr) 2000-10-05
WO2000057743A3 WO2000057743A3 (fr) 2001-01-04

Family

ID=27145245

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/ZA2000/000048 Ceased WO2000057743A2 (fr) 1999-03-26 2000-03-20 Monture de pierres précieuses

Country Status (2)

Country Link
AU (1) AU3775500A (fr)
WO (1) WO2000057743A2 (fr)

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1136014A1 (fr) * 2000-03-14 2001-09-26 Kurt Kubik Bijou
KR20030051119A (ko) * 2001-12-19 2003-06-25 김태기 보석 및 그의 세팅방법
DE10359824A1 (de) * 2003-12-12 2005-07-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren und ein Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
WO2011064092A1 (fr) * 2009-11-25 2011-06-03 Dress Your Body Ag Pièce de décoration serti invisible
WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2016-06-09 Cartier International Ag Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support
CN109112579A (zh) * 2018-07-27 2019-01-01 福州珂麦表业有限公司 一种镶钻批花圈制作工艺
CN111315252A (zh) * 2017-08-16 2020-06-19 Ng发展有限责任公司 发光珠宝

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3544429A1 (de) * 1985-12-16 1987-06-19 Juwedor Gmbh Verfahren zur galvanoplastischen herstellung von schmuckwaren
FR2627512A1 (fr) * 1988-02-23 1989-08-25 Or Est Procede de sertissage par electroformage
EP0620987A1 (fr) * 1993-04-22 1994-10-26 Firma Franz Breuning Sertissage d'une pierre de bijouterie
FR2754152B1 (fr) * 1996-10-09 1998-12-24 Pgcm Conception Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1136014A1 (fr) * 2000-03-14 2001-09-26 Kurt Kubik Bijou
KR20030051119A (ko) * 2001-12-19 2003-06-25 김태기 보석 및 그의 세팅방법
DE10359824A1 (de) * 2003-12-12 2005-07-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren und ein Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
CN102665478B (zh) * 2009-11-25 2014-10-15 为你装扮股份公司 隐形镶嵌的装饰件
US20120225314A1 (en) * 2009-11-25 2012-09-06 Dress Your Body Ag Invisible set decorative part
CN102665478A (zh) * 2009-11-25 2012-09-12 为你装扮股份公司 隐形镶嵌的装饰件
WO2011064092A1 (fr) * 2009-11-25 2011-06-03 Dress Your Body Ag Pièce de décoration serti invisible
US9345294B2 (en) 2009-11-25 2016-05-24 Dress Your Body Ag Invisible set decorative part
US9596910B2 (en) 2009-11-25 2017-03-21 Dress Your Body Ag Invisible set decorative part
WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2016-06-09 Cartier International Ag Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support
CN107105839A (zh) * 2014-12-02 2017-08-29 卡地亚国际有限公司 宝石、特别是刻面钻石以及将其安装在基座上的方法
CN111315252A (zh) * 2017-08-16 2020-06-19 Ng发展有限责任公司 发光珠宝
CN109112579A (zh) * 2018-07-27 2019-01-01 福州珂麦表业有限公司 一种镶钻批花圈制作工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU3775500A (en) 2000-10-16
WO2000057743A3 (fr) 2001-01-04

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