WO1999026587A1 - Water-in-oil dermo-cosmetic composition free of emulsifying surfactants - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a novel dermo-cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, stable and free of emulsifying agent, and comprising at least a lipophilic agent with a HLB≤3.

Description

 DERMO-COSMETIC COMPOSITION WATER IN OIL WITHOUT EMULSIFYING SURFACTANTS

The present invention relates to a new dermocosmetic water-in-oil cosmetic composition containing no emulsifying surfactant and a new manufacturing concept allowing, after simple modification, to obtain a stable oil-in-water emulsion without surfactant and its use. in topical application.

It is known that for the production of stable Water / Oil, Oil / Water, Water / Silicone emulsions or Triple Water / Oil / Water, Oil / Water / Oil emulsions, one or more emulsifiers are required and qu 'Depending on the different components of the formula a greater or lesser amount of these emulsifiers will be necessary to solve the problems of stability over time.

Unfortunately, these emulsifying compounds generally have an irritant action on the skin. In addition, in the case of Water / Oil emulsions, problems of texture and cosmetic acceptability arise.

Finally, in the case of photoprotective compositions containing photoprotective agents, their uses, at high concentrations, pose formulation problems. In fact, in oil / water emulsions, the presence of these agents in the internal phase, at high concentrations, causes problems of dispersion and of homogeneity of the dispersion, leading to a reduction in their effectiveness. Therefore, in view of these problems, the use of Water / Oil emulsion seems a more appropriate choice. However, the use of surfactants or emulsifiers in this type of formulation leads to problems of skin intolerance. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to produce stable Water / Oil emulsions without the aid of emulsifying surfactants. Water / Oil formulations comprising such characteristics have, in addition to their stability, application and comfort qualities specific to formulations having no surfactant or emulsifier.

In accordance with the present invention, new dermo-cosmetic compositions are therefore now proposed in the form of Water / Oil emulsions, stable and free of emulsifier, and which comprise at least one lipophilic agent having an HLB <3.

According to a particular characteristic of the present invention, the composition comprises the lipophilic agent in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total composition.

According to a particular characteristic of the present invention, the lipophilic agent used is a surfactant or not having an HLB <3, not classified in the emulsifiers Water in Oil, nor Oil in Water; it is in particular chosen from hydroxylated triglycerides of milk, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl tribehenate, that is to say tribehenin, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol dioleate, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether.

Advantageously in practice, the lipophilic agent is chosen from tribehenin, hydroxylated milk triglycerides, as well as their mixtures in all proportions.

According to another characteristic of the invention, the dermo-cosmetic composition has an aqueous phase which may contain humectants, moisturizers, hydrophilic active principles, particulate fillers of hydrophilic nature and other agents capable of improving the cosmetic and treating qualities of the final composition, in particular hydrophilic photoprotective agents. According to another characteristic of the present invention, the composition has an oily phase which may contain one or more constituents chosen from emollients, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, lipophilic active agents, mineral fillers photoprotective or not, and lipophilic photoprotein agents.

The dermo-cosmetic composition according to the invention therefore comprises in percentage (by weight):

> an oily external phase 10 to 99%

> a lipophilic agent with HLB <3 0.1 to 10%

> an aqueous phase 1 to 90%

> fillers and additives 0 to 50%

> water at 90%

The oily phase may contain different fatty substances, chosen, alone or in mixtures, from oils of vegetable, animal or mineral origin, natural or synthetic waxes and the like.

Among the oils which can enter into the composition of the fatty phase, one can thus cite: • mineral oils such as paraffin oil and petrolatum oil, isododecane;

• oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

• oils of vegetable origin such as shea butter, vegetable squalane, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, oil apricot kernel, colaphyllum oil, rice bran oil, corn germ, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, passionflower oil and rye oil; synthetic oils such as purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, ethyl hydroxy adipate, stearate butyl, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate and esters derived from lanolic acid such as isopropyl lanolate and isocetyl lanolate, isoparaffins and poly-α-olefins.

As other oils which can be used, mention may also be made of triglycerides of fatty acids such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols, acetylglycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as those glycol and glycerol, the ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as those of cetyl, triglycerides of fatty acids saturated with ClO-Clδ, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils, lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, silicone oils, volatile or not, or organic solutions of gums and / or organosiloxane resins.

The aqueous phase may contain humectants such as, for example, polyhydric alcohols (Butylene glycol, Glycerol, Ethyleneghycol, Propylene glycol, Diethylene glycol, Sorbitol, etc.), water-soluble lower alcohols (Ethanol, Isopropanol or Butanol). It can also contain gelling agents of all kinds such as, for example, cellulose derivatives, magnesium and sodium or aluminum silicates, algae derivatives, natural gums, synthetic polymers and Thermal Spring Water .

Of course, the compositions according to the invention may also contain fillers and lipophilic or hydrophilic additives capable of being present in the aqueous phase and / or in the fatty phase. Mention may be made of thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, repellents against insects, organic filters active in UVA and / or UVB, photoprotective mineral pigments and nanopigments, moisturizers, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestrants, dyes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic field.

Among the lipophilic agents of HLB less than or equal to 3 suitable for the compositions, mention may be made of hydroxylated milk triglycerides, tribehenin, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol dioleate, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether.

The lipophilic agent is preferably present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 5% by weight of the final composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a dermatological and / or cosmetological composition characterized by:

PHASE A: In the manufacturing tank, introduce and melt, if necessary, the different elements of the oily phase, add and disperse the lipophilic and mineral fillers.

PHASE B: In the formula water, introduce and dissolve the hydrophilic raw materials, add and disperse the hydrophilic gelling agents.

PHASE C Once the two previous phases are homogeneous, introduce PHASE B in successive fractions into PHASE A with vigorous stirring. After mixing, add the active ingredients and elements of the thermolubile formula. Finalize the preparation with the perfume. There is a second variant to this procedure, it is the reverse process, that is to say, introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase and finalizing the product in the same way as above.

EXAMPLES OF FQRMUIATION:

EXAMPLE 1: ANTISOLAR PRODUCT WITH ORGANIC FILTERS AND MINERAL SCREENS

1. OILY PHASE

ISODODECANE 1% to 10%

TRIGLYCERIDE CAPRIC / CAPRYLIC 1% to 10% PEG 45 / DODECYL GLYCOL COPOLYMER 0.01% to 5%

2. LIPOPHILIC AGENT

HYDROXYL MILK TRIGLYCERIDES 0.1% to 5%

3. AQUEOUS PHASE

PEMULENTR1 "0.01% to 0.9%

XANTHANE GUM 0.05% to 1%

4. ASSETS AND EXCIPIENTS

ULTRA FINE TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1% to 30% ULTRA FINE ZINC OXIDE 1% to 30% CINNAMIC ESTERS 0.1% to 10% DIBENZOYL METHANE DERIVATIVES 0.05% to 5% QS ANTI-RADICAL CONSERVATIVES 0.01% to 3% QS PERFUME

SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS PURIFIED WATER QSP 100 ° / EXAMPLE 2: AFTER SHAVE BALM

1. OILY PHASE

ISODODECANE 1% to 20%

D1METMICONE 1% to 5%

2. LIPOPHILIC AGENT

TRIBEHENIN 0.01% to 5%

3. AQUEOUS PHASE

ETHANOL at 95 ° DENATURE 1% to 40%

BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.5% to 10%

MACROGOL 200 ^® 0.1% to 10%

CROSSLINKED POLYMER OF C10-C30 ALKYLACRYLATE 3.05% to 2%

4. ASSETS AND EXCIPIENTS

MENTHYLE LACTATE 0.1% to 1%

ALLANTOINE 0.05% to 0.5%

ALPHA BISABOLOL 0.1% to 1%

MOISTURIZERS 0.1% to 10%

D-PANTHENOL 0.01% to 1%

QS NEUTRALIZERS

QS CONSERVATIVES

QS DYES

QS PERFUME

PURIFIED WATER QSP 100 ° X

EXAMPLE 3: VITAMIN BODY MILK

l. OILY PHASE

KAR1TE BUTTER 1% to 10%

CΛPRIQUE / CΛPRYLIQUE TRIGLYCERIDE 1% to 10%

SQUΛLΛNE VEGETAL l% ά 20%

CΛLENDULΛ OIL EXTRACT 1% to 25%

2. LIPOPHILIC AGENT

HYDROXYL MILK TRIGLYCERIDES 0.05% 4%

3. AQUEOUS PHASE

PEMULEN TR 2 ^® 0.1% to 2% VEEGUM ULTRA ^® 0.1% to 2% CELLULOSIC DERIVATIVE 0.05% to 0.5% GLYCEROL 0.5% to 15% BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.5% to 20%

4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS α-TOCOPHEROL 0 01%

VITAMIN A PALMITATE 0.01% 0.5%

ASCORBIC ACID 0.01%

GLYCERIC ESTER OF VITAMIN F 0.5%

ALLANTOINE 0.1% 0.5%

QS CONSERVATIVES

QS NEUTRALIZERS

QS DYES

AVENE QSP THERMAL WATER 100% EXAMPLE 4: 100% MINERAL ANTISOLAR PRODUCT

1. OILY PHASE

Cl 2- 15 ΛLKYL BENZONATE 1% to 10% ISODODECANE 1% to 20% CYCLOMETHICONE l% to 20% DIMETHICONE 0.5% to 10%

2. LIPOPHILIC AGENT

HYDROXYL MILK TRIGLYCERIDES 0.1% to 5%

3. AQUEOUS PHASE

PEMULENTR1® °° 5% to 3%

CARBOMER 0.05% to 2% Ό

4. ASSETS AND EXCIPIENTS

ULTRA FINE TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1% to 30% ULTRA FINE ZINC OXIDE 0.1% to 30% VITAMIN E ACETATE 0.05% to 2% HYDROGENATED SILICA 0.05% to 2% ULTRA FINE IRON OXIDE QS QS SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS PERFUME QS THERMALE D'AVENE QSP 100 °

EXAMPLE 5: AFTER SUN FACE

1. OILY PHASE

SHEA BUTTER% to 10%

WHITE VASELINE% to 15%

CI 2- 15 ALKYL BENZONATE% to 20%

2. LIPOPHILIC AGENT

GLYCEROL DIBEHENATE 0.5% 3%

3. AQUEOUS PHASE

XANTHANE GUM 0.1% to 0.5% GLYCEROL 5% to 10% MACROGOL 600 ^® 1% to 10% OCTOXYGLYCERINE 0.1% to 5%

4. ASSETS AND EXCIPIENTS

ALLANTOINE 0.05% to 1%

ALPHA BISABOLOL 0.05% to 1%

VITAMIN C 0.01% to 0.5%

VITAMIN E 0.05% to 3%

VITAMIN E ACETATE 0.1% to 2%

VITAMIN F ESTER GLYCERIC 0.5% to 2%

QS CONSERVATIVES at

QS ANTIOXIDANTS

QS DYES

QS PERFUME

EAUTHERMALE QSP at 100 ° / t

Claims

1. Dermo-cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, stable and free of emulsifier, and which comprises at least one lipophilic agent having an HLB <3. 2. dermo-cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic agent is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition total. 3. Dermocosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the lipophilic agent is chosen from hydroxylated milk triglycerides, tribehenin, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol dioleate, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether . 4. Dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the lipophilic agent is chosen from triglycerides of hydroxylated milk, tribehenin and their mixtures. 5. Dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that an aqueous phase which may contain humectants, moisturizers, hydrophilic active principles, particulate fillers of hydrophilic nature and other agents capable of improve the cosmetic and treating qualities of the final composition, in particular hydrophilic photoprotective agents. 6. dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that an oily phase which may contain one or more constituents chosen from emollients, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, oils silicone, lipophilic active agents, particulate mineral charges which may or may not be photoprotective, and lipophilic photoprotective agents. 7. dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aqueous phase represents from 1 to 90% by weight of the total composition.