WO1998053795B1 - COSMETIC AND DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THREONIN OR SERINE DERIVATIVES - Google Patents

Abstract

The N-acyl-threonine and N-acyl-serine derivatives are β-hydroxylated acids. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use of these derivatives in order to accelerate the renewal of the skin, to fight against wrinkles, to improve the general appearance of the skin and the scalp by a keratolytic, moisturizing and / or stimulating the metabolism, is new.

Claims

AMENDED CLAIMS [received by the International Bureau on 8 December 1998 (08.12.98); modified claims 1 and 3; other claims unchanged (3 pages)] 1. Characterized cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions in that they contain one or more compounds which correspond to the general formula:

CH-ORs R ₂ where R 1 = alkyl, aryl or alkylaryl, with "alkyl" representing carbon chains of 2 to 10 carbons, preferably 2 to 4 carbons, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, sulfur or phosphorylated or not, R ₂ = CH 3 or an alkyl chain of 2 to 4 carbon atoms and R 3 = H or an acyl chain of 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbons, and the carbon C ^x denotes an asymmetric carbon atom which may be present in the form L, D or DL racemic form. 2) cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim 1 characterized in that the compounds of this patent are obtained either by organic synthesis in a homogeneous or heterogeneous medium according to conventional methods, or by enzymatic synthesis in a preferably anhydrous medium. 3) cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the selected compounds are N-acyl-threonine and N-acyl, O-acyl-threonine. 4) cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the β-hydroxylated amino acid derivative of the patent is N-acetyl-L-threonine or a mixture of N-acetyl-L-threonine and N, O-diacetyl-L-threonine. 5) Characterized cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions 1 3 in that the compounds according to any one of claims 1 to 4 are previously incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. 6) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that they contain the derivative or derivatives of this patent at concentrations which may vary between 0.001 and 30% (w / w), preferably between 0.1 and 10% (w / w) _/ particularly preferably between 1 and 5% by weight of the total composition. 7) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they represent any galenic form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy, namely: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, balms, mousses, body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays. 8) cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 7 characterized in that the derivatives of this patent are combined in the finished products with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: extraction lipids and / or synthetic, gelling and viscosizing polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro- or liposoluble active ingredients, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts. 9) Uses of the compounds object of this patent according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of 1 4 claims 5 to 8 for the care of the skin or scalp, particularly for the renewal of the epidermal layers, to improve skin hydration, to reduce wrinkles and roughness of the skin.