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WO1996014047A1 - Compositions cosmetiques - Google Patents

Compositions cosmetiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1996014047A1
WO1996014047A1 PCT/US1995/012775 US9512775W WO9614047A1 WO 1996014047 A1 WO1996014047 A1 WO 1996014047A1 US 9512775 W US9512775 W US 9512775W WO 9614047 A1 WO9614047 A1 WO 9614047A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition according
volatile silicone
weight
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/US1995/012775
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Petra Helga Beck
Thomas Otto Gassenmeier
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Co
Original Assignee
Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Priority to JP8515303A priority Critical patent/JPH10509444A/ja
Priority to EP95938714A priority patent/EP0790817A4/fr
Publication of WO1996014047A1 publication Critical patent/WO1996014047A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/066—Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions.
  • cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions which provide improved product stability, moisturisation, skin feel and appearance and shine/oil control.
  • Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure.
  • the outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles surrounded by 8nm thick layers.
  • Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
  • compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
  • Conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions as described, for example, in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.l, Wiley Interscience (1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, Volume 7 are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, bairier and water-retention (moisturizing) benefits. However, they can also suffer serious negatives in terms of skin feel (i.e. they often feel very greasy on the skin) as well as having poor rub-in, absorption and residue characteristics.
  • the present invention therefore provides skin-care cosmetic compositions which provide improvements in product stability, moisturisation, skin feel and appearance and shine/oil control.
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of a multiphase oil-in-water emulsion wherein the composition comprises at least two internal oil phases, a first oil phase having water dispersed therein and a second oil phase which is water free, and wherein the average size of disperse phase particles in the first oil phase is at least about 10 microns and the average size of disperse phase particles in the second oil phase is less than about 5 microns.
  • compositions of the invention provide improved product stability, skin feel and appearance, appUcation and skin absorption characteristics and shine/oil control.
  • a first essential component of the composition herein is a water-soluble calcium salt of an organic or inorganic acid.
  • water-soluble herein means that the salt has a solubility of at least about 1% in water at 25°C.
  • Suitable calcium salts for use herein include calcium chloride, calcium pantothenate, calcium acetate, calcium acetyl salicylate, calcium ascorbate, calcium chloride, calcium cyclamate, calcium gluconate, calcium lactate and calcium nitrate, and mixtures thereof, preferably calcium pantothenate.
  • the calcium salt is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1.0% to about 15% by weight.
  • a second essential component of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention is a non- volatile silicone surfactant.
  • the non-volatile silicone surfactant is preferably selected from polyorganosiloxanes-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, said polydiorganosiloxane segment consisting essentially of
  • siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3. inclusive, there being an average value of approximately 2 R radicals per silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, at elast about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol percent polyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent polyoxyethylene units, at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment being bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminating radical; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxan
  • Suitable non-volatile silicone surfactants for use herein are selected from polydiorganosiloxane- polyoxyalkylene copolymers having the formula (I):
  • x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain terminating group, especially selected from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkynyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino, such as dimethylamino.
  • the number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.0.
  • Suitable copolymers of the type described hereinabove are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschafts Buffalo S, Postfach D-8000 Kunststoff 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183.
  • Other suitable non-volatile silicone surfactants can be selected from alkyl- or alkoxy-methicone or dimethicone copolyols having the formula (II):
  • X is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl, an alkoxy or an acyl group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms
  • Y is C8-C22 alkoxy or alkyl radical
  • n 0 to 200
  • m 1 to 40
  • q 1 to 100
  • the molecular weight of the residue (C2UAO-) (C ⁇ O-)yX being from 250 to 2000
  • x and y being selected so that the weight ratio of the oxyethylene/oxypropylene groups is between about 100 : 0 and 20 : 80.
  • laurylmethicone copolyol is Especially preferred herein from the viewpoint of product stability.
  • the non-volatile silicone surfactant is present herein at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, by weight.
  • the cosmetic compositions herein additionally comprise volatile silicone oil.
  • volatile silicone oils for use herein include cyclic polyorganosiloxanes having viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes and linear polyorganosiloxanes having viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile silicone oil is selected from cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 to about 6 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms. Most preferred for use herein is dimethicone fluid.
  • the volatile silicone oil is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention takes the form of an emulsion having an internal aqueous phase, for example a water-in-oil emulsion containing from about 10% to about 40%, preferably from about 15% to about 30%, especially from about 15% to about 25% by weight of oil.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably formulated as a multiphase emulsion having both an internal aqueous phase and multiple internal oil phases.
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of a multiphase oil-in-water emulsion wherein the composition comprises at least two internal oil phases, a first oil phase having water dispersed therein (hereinafter the water-in-oil phase) and a second oil phase which is water free (hereinafter the oil phase), and wherein the average size of disperse phase particles in the first oil phase is at least about 10 microns, preferably between about 10 microns and about 50 microns, and the average size of disperse phase particles in the second oil phase is less than about 5 microns.
  • the aqueous continuous phase of the multiphase emulsion preferably comprises a liquid crystalline or gel network.
  • compositions of the second aspect of the present invention preferably comprise a nonionic surfactant or mixture of nonionic surfactants having an average HLB of from about 7 to about 12.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for use herein can be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of C -C22" fatty alcohols, preferably steareth-2 and steareth-21, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonionic surfactant must be capable of forming a gel network in the aqueous continuous phase.
  • a preferred nonionic surfactant for use herein is commercially available under the tradename
  • the nonionic surfactant is present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.
  • the water-in-oil phase preferably comprises from about 10% to about 90%, preferably from about 10% to about 75%, by weight thereof of water, from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight thereof of a water-soluble calcium salt of an organic or inorganic acid, and from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight thereof of non-volatile, silicone surfactant, these levels being by weight of the water-in-oil phase.
  • compositions herein preferably further comprise from about 5 to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight of volatile or non ⁇ volatile hydrocarbon oil.
  • suitable hydrocarbon oils for use herein include mineral oil, microcrystalline wax petrolatum, isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, isodecane, decane, hexadecane, dodecane, tetradecane and octadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the multiphase emulsion compositions can be prepared as follows. A first water-in-oil emulsion is prepared under high shear using standard emulsification techniques. A second oil-in-water emulsion is also separately prepared under high shear. The two emulsions are then mixed carefully by avoiding excessive shear and heat to form a multiphase emulsion having both an internal aqueous phase and multiple internal oil phases.
  • the level of water-in-oil emulsion present in the mixture is from about 1% to about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 25% by weight of the mixture.
  • the mixing ratio of water-in-oil emulsion to oil-in- water emulsion is in the range from about 99: 1 to about 1 :99, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:20.
  • Multiphase oil-in-water emulsion comprising two internal oil phases
  • the multiphase emulsion compositions of the invention exhibit improved product stability, aesthetics and cosmetic properties.
  • the multiphase emulsion compositions are also valuable from the viewpoint of keeping incompatible components apart, e.g. calcium in the internal water phase is kept apart from the alcohol and glycol materials with which the calcium is incompatible in the above examples VI-X.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une émulsion ayant une phase aqueuse interne comprenant un sel de calcium hydrosoluble d'un acide organique ou minéral et un tensioactif non volatil dérivé d'un silicone. Les compositions de l'invention ont une stabilité et des propriétés hydratantes améliorées et elles ont un aspect plus plaisant, elles sont plus agréables au toucher et à l'application, elles sont mieux absorbées par la peau et elles ne donnent pas un aspect luisant/gras à la peau.
PCT/US1995/012775 1994-11-02 1995-10-13 Compositions cosmetiques Ceased WO1996014047A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP8515303A JPH10509444A (ja) 1994-11-02 1995-10-13 化粧品組成物
EP95938714A EP0790817A4 (fr) 1994-11-02 1995-10-13 Compositions cosmetiques

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9422099.3 1994-11-02
GB9422099A GB9422099D0 (en) 1994-11-02 1994-11-02 Cosmetic composition

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1996014047A1 true WO1996014047A1 (fr) 1996-05-17

Family

ID=10763777

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US1995/012775 Ceased WO1996014047A1 (fr) 1994-11-02 1995-10-13 Compositions cosmetiques

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0790817A4 (fr)
JP (1) JPH10509444A (fr)
GB (1) GB9422099D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO1996014047A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006113A1 (fr) * 1998-07-25 2000-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsions eau-huile cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des tensioactifs non ioniques et se caracterisant par une teneur en emulsifiants silicones
FR2789313A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-08-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique fluide sous forme d'emulsion eau-dans-huile
FR2789307A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-08-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique de demaquillage et/ou de nettoyage sous forme d'emulsion eau-dans-huile

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4421769A (en) * 1981-09-29 1983-12-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin conditioning composition
US4724851A (en) * 1986-11-04 1988-02-16 Dow Corning Corporation Hair fixative composition containing cationic organic polymer and polydiorganosiloxane
US5066485A (en) * 1987-02-06 1991-11-19 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic compositions comprising oil-in-water emulsion containing pigment
US5143722A (en) * 1986-12-19 1992-09-01 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic makeup compositions comprising water-in-oil emulsions containing pigment
US5216033A (en) * 1989-06-29 1993-06-01 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Water-in-oil transparent emulsion for the skin

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4532132A (en) * 1983-04-11 1985-07-30 Dow Corning Corporation Skin care formulations comprising a water-in-mineral oil emulsion and siloxane compositions therefor
JP2732261B2 (ja) * 1988-09-20 1998-03-25 株式会社コーセー 皮膚用組成物
JPH07215838A (ja) * 1994-02-04 1995-08-15 Shiseido Co Ltd 皮膚外用剤

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4421769A (en) * 1981-09-29 1983-12-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin conditioning composition
US4724851A (en) * 1986-11-04 1988-02-16 Dow Corning Corporation Hair fixative composition containing cationic organic polymer and polydiorganosiloxane
US5143722A (en) * 1986-12-19 1992-09-01 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic makeup compositions comprising water-in-oil emulsions containing pigment
US5143722B1 (en) * 1986-12-19 1999-08-24 Revlon Consumer Prod Corp Cosmetic makeup compositions comprising water-in-oil emulsions containing pigment
US5066485A (en) * 1987-02-06 1991-11-19 Revlon, Inc. Cosmetic compositions comprising oil-in-water emulsion containing pigment
US5216033A (en) * 1989-06-29 1993-06-01 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Water-in-oil transparent emulsion for the skin

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See also references of EP0790817A4 *

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000006113A1 (fr) * 1998-07-25 2000-02-10 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsions eau-huile cosmetiques ou dermatologiques contenant des tensioactifs non ioniques et se caracterisant par une teneur en emulsifiants silicones
FR2789313A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-08-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique et/ou dermatologique fluide sous forme d'emulsion eau-dans-huile
FR2789307A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-08-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique de demaquillage et/ou de nettoyage sous forme d'emulsion eau-dans-huile
EP1034774A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-09-13 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de démaquillage et/ou nettoyage sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile
EP1034779A1 (fr) * 1999-02-08 2000-09-13 L'oreal Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique fluide sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile.
US6344204B1 (en) 1999-02-08 2002-02-05 L'oreal Fluid cosmetic and/or dermatological composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB9422099D0 (en) 1994-12-21
JPH10509444A (ja) 1998-09-14
EP0790817A1 (fr) 1997-08-27
EP0790817A4 (fr) 2000-03-08

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