WO1996009429A1 - Method for printing and processing a polar fabric, and resulting fabric - Google Patents
Method for printing and processing a polar fabric, and resulting fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO1996009429A1 WO1996009429A1 PCT/FR1995/001204 FR9501204W WO9609429A1 WO 1996009429 A1 WO1996009429 A1 WO 1996009429A1 FR 9501204 W FR9501204 W FR 9501204W WO 9609429 A1 WO9609429 A1 WO 9609429A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- printing
- mesh
- parts
- blocked
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/001—Special chemical aspects of printing textile materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P7/00—Dyeing or printing processes combined with mechanical treatment
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
- D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
- D06Q1/06—Decorating textiles by local treatment of pile fabrics with chemical means
Definitions
- the invention relates to the technical sector of dyeing and textile finishing, to obtain a so-called "polar" fabric.
- the latter can be carried out in different ways, configured to apply, with precision, the dye to the fabric, having in particular the objective, that the contours of the printing are clear, that is that is, by preventing the dye from diffusing into the fabric.
- the color should therefore have sufficient viscosity.
- the invention relates more particularly to the rotary printing process.
- the fabric is applied under high pressure against the surface of the cylinder and absorbs the color injected into the cylinders.
- Such a method makes it possible to continuously print a large number of different colors with various patterns.
- disperse dyes are used.
- the invention relates to scraping which consists in scraping the surface of the fabric, to release the threads and give it a fluffy appearance. This technique is commonly used to constitute so-called "polar" fabrics.
- the fabric obtained has, externally, a uniform visual appearance, in the sense that there are no recessed or raised parts.
- a method has been designed and developed according to which: - a printing operation is carried out by means of dispersed dyes applied by the printing cylinders and simultaneously certain parts of the mesh of the fabric are blocked , according to predetermined drawings and / or shapes,
- a printing paste is used deposited on the fabric by one or more cylinders corresponding to the part or parts of fabric whose wants to block the mesh.
- the blocking of the mesh can be carried out either at the level of the outline of the drawings and or forms, or at the level of one or more patterns.
- Figure 1 is a purely schematic view showing an example of installation for the implementation of the method of the invention, in particular for printing the fabric and blocking certain parts of the mesh.
- Figure 2 is a schematic view showing an example of an installation for scraping the fabric treated according to the invention.
- Figure 3 is, on a large scale, a sectional view of the fabric after the printing and blocking of the mesh operation.
- Figure 4 is a plan view corresponding to Figure
- Figure 5 is a schematic plan view, showing different embodiments of a fabric obtained according to the characteristics of the invention.
- the fabric designated as a whole by (T) is subjected to a printing operation, in order to apply various dyes and patterns to the fabric.
- This printing is carried out by means of a plurality of cylinders (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F) ...
- Each cylinder (A) (B) (C) (D) (E ) (F) ... presents an engraving corresponding to the pattern to be obtained and receives the corresponding dye, which must be applied to the fabric.
- This cylinder printing technique is not described in detail because it is perfectly known to a person skilled in the art.
- This printing paste is advantageously of the type of that known under the brand LIANT OR distributed by the company MINERPRINT.
- This printing paste is used with a softener also of all known and suitable types.
- For 1 kg of printing paste add between 5g and 20g of softener.
- This printing paste can be used alone or mixed with any dye, in proportions of 1g to 50g per 1kg of paste.
- the fabric (T) therefore has a plurality of patterns (1) with parts (2) whose mesh is blocked.
- the fabric (T) thus treated and printed is subjected to a finish consisting of a scraping operation, to obtain a so-called "polar" fabric.
- the scraping operation is carried out on all types of machines, for example those known under the name of "woolen” or “felter” (G).
- the scraping operation will only have effects on the other parts (1) of the fabric, where it will be possible to release the threads, in order to obtain the appearance downy specific to a fleece.
- Scraping will have no effect at the blocked parts of mesh (2), since the printing paste deposited on these parts, no longer allows to release the son.
- These parts (2) will therefore remain flat in opposition to the other scraped parts which will appear in relief with respect to said parts (2).
- the blocked parts of the mesh can correspond either to whole patterns (FIG. 5), or only to the contours of all or some of the patterns composing the fabric. This selection is made at the level of the printing cylinders.
- the treatment method according to the invention consisting of a mechanical blocking of certain parts of the mesh followed by a scraping operation to obtain relief effects, is advantageously combined with the arrangements described and claimed in patent application FR 9301368 In this respect, it is recalled that the characteristics defined in this patent application make it possible to obtain polar fabrics of different aspects, in particular of the quilted, fur, lambskin, sheepskin type, by combining the conventional scraping operation, with operations of the velvety and / or shaving and / or ruffling type.
- the method therefore makes it possible to obtain a polar fabric having non-scraped parts, corresponding to certain patterns and / or to the contours of the whole or of some of the patterns, in order to create, consequently, relief effects.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Procédé d'impression et de traitement d'un tissu du type polaire et le tissu obtenu. Method of printing and treating a fabric of the polar type and the fabric obtained.
L'invention se rattache au secteur technique de la teinture et de la finition textile, pour obtenir un tissu dit "polaire".The invention relates to the technical sector of dyeing and textile finishing, to obtain a so-called "polar" fabric.
On sait que les textiles doivent subir un ennoblissement qui comporte des traitements prétinctoriaux, le blanchiment, la teinture proprement dite, l'impression et l'apprêt.We know that textiles must undergo a finishing process which includes pre-dyeing treatments, bleaching, dyeing proper, printing and finishing.
En ce qui concerne l'impression, cette dernière peut s'effectuer de différents moyens, conformés pour appliquer, avec précision, le colorant sur le tissu, en ayant notamment pour objectif, que les contours de l'impression soient nets, c'est-à-dire en évitant que le colorant ne diffuse dans le tissu. La couleur devra donc avoir une viscosité suffisante. Parmi les différentes techniques d'impression proposées, l'invention concerne plus particulièrement le procédé d'impression rotatif.With regard to printing, the latter can be carried out in different ways, configured to apply, with precision, the dye to the fabric, having in particular the objective, that the contours of the printing are clear, that is that is, by preventing the dye from diffusing into the fabric. The color should therefore have sufficient viscosity. Among the various printing techniques proposed, the invention relates more particularly to the rotary printing process.
Le tissu est appliqué sous forte pression contre la surface du cylindre et absorbe au passage la couleur injectée dans les cylindres. Un tel procédé permet d'imprimer, en continu, un nombre important de couleurs différentes avec des motifs variés. Généralement on utilise des colorants dispersés.The fabric is applied under high pressure against the surface of the cylinder and absorbs the color injected into the cylinders. Such a method makes it possible to continuously print a large number of different colors with various patterns. Generally, disperse dyes are used.
En ce qui concerne l'apprêt, l'invention concerne le grattage qui consiste à gratter la surface du tissu, pour dégager les fils et lui donner un aspect duveteux. Cette technique est couramment employée pour constituer des tissus dits "polaire".With regard to the finish, the invention relates to scraping which consists in scraping the surface of the fabric, to release the threads and give it a fluffy appearance. This technique is commonly used to constitute so-called "polar" fabrics.
Le tissu obtenu présente, extérieurement, un aspect visuel uniforme, en ce sens qu'il n'y a pas de parties en creux ou en relief. A partir de ces techniques connues d'impression et d'apprêt, on a voulu modifier l'aspect visuel du tissu polaire obtenu, en créant des effets de relief, en respectant le problème posé d'éviter que le colorant bloque, de façon régulière, la surface du tissu, afin d'annuler l'effet de grattage.The fabric obtained has, externally, a uniform visual appearance, in the sense that there are no recessed or raised parts. Using these known printing and finishing techniques, we wanted to modify the visual appearance of the fleece fabric obtained, by creating relief effects, while respecting the problem posed of preventing the dye from blocking, on a regular basis. , the surface of the fabric, in order to cancel the scraping effect.
Pour résoudre un tel problème, il a été conçu et mis au point un procédé selon lequel : - on effectue une opération d'impression au moyen de colorants dispersés appliqués par les cylindres d'impression et simultanément on bloque certaines parties de la maille du tissu, selon des dessins et/ou formes prédéterminées,To solve such a problem, a method has been designed and developed according to which: - a printing operation is carried out by means of dispersed dyes applied by the printing cylinders and simultaneously certain parts of the mesh of the fabric are blocked , according to predetermined drawings and / or shapes,
- on soumet le tissu ainsi traité à une opération de grattage de sorte que les parties de maille bloquées apparaissent en creux par rapport aux autres parties du tissu créant un effet de relief.- The fabric thus treated is subjected to a scraping operation so that the blocked mesh parts appear hollow relative to the other parts of the fabric creating a relief effect.
Pour résoudre le problèmeposé de bloquer la maille, afin d'éviter de tirer les fils pendant l'opération de grattage, on utilise une pâte d'impression déposée sur le tissu par un ou des cylindres correspondant à la ou aux parties de tissu dont on veut bloquer la maille.To solve the problem posed of blocking the mesh, in order to avoid pulling the threads during the scraping operation, a printing paste is used deposited on the fabric by one or more cylinders corresponding to the part or parts of fabric whose wants to block the mesh.
Selon l'invention, le blocage de la maille peut s'effectuer, soit au niveau du contour des dessins et ou des formes, soit au niveau d'un ou plusieurs motifs.According to the invention, the blocking of the mesh can be carried out either at the level of the outline of the drawings and or forms, or at the level of one or more patterns.
L'invention est exposée, ci-après plus en détail à l'aide des dessins annexés, dans lesquels : La figure 1 est une vue à caractère purement schématique montrant un exemple d'installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé de l'invention, notamment pour l'impression du tissu et le blocage de certaines parties de la maille. La figure 2 est une vue à caractère schématique montrant, un exemple d'installation pour le grattage du tissu traité selon l'invention.The invention is set out below in more detail using the appended drawings, in which: Figure 1 is a purely schematic view showing an example of installation for the implementation of the method of the invention, in particular for printing the fabric and blocking certain parts of the mesh. Figure 2 is a schematic view showing an example of an installation for scraping the fabric treated according to the invention.
La figure 3 est, à grande échelle, une vue en coupe du tissu après l'opération d'impression et de blocage de la maille. La figure 4 est une vue en plan correspondant à la figureFigure 3 is, on a large scale, a sectional view of the fabric after the printing and blocking of the mesh operation. Figure 4 is a plan view corresponding to Figure
3.3.
La figure 5 est une vue en plan à caractère schématique, montrant différents exemples de réalisation d'un tissu obtenu selon les caractéristiques de l'invention.Figure 5 is a schematic plan view, showing different embodiments of a fabric obtained according to the characteristics of the invention.
D'une manière parfaitement connue, le tissu désigné dans son ensemble par (T), après l'opération de blanchiment et éventuellement de teinture, est soumis à une opération d'impression, pour appliquer sur le tissu, différents colorants et motifs. Cette impression s'effectue au moyen d'une pluralité de cylindres (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F)... Chaque cylindre (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F)... présente une gravure correspondant au motif à obtenir et reçoit le colorant correspondant, qui doit être appliqué sur le tissu. Cette technique d'impression au cylindre, n'est pas décrite en détail, car parfaitement connue pour un homme du métier.In a perfectly known manner, the fabric designated as a whole by (T), after the bleaching and optionally dyeing operation, is subjected to a printing operation, in order to apply various dyes and patterns to the fabric. This printing is carried out by means of a plurality of cylinders (A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F) ... Each cylinder (A) (B) (C) (D) (E ) (F) ... presents an engraving corresponding to the pattern to be obtained and receives the corresponding dye, which must be applied to the fabric. This cylinder printing technique is not described in detail because it is perfectly known to a person skilled in the art.
Selon une caractéristique à la base de l'invention, avant de soumettre le tissu à l'opération d'apprêt, on bloque certaines parties de la maille du tissu, selon des dessins et/ou formes prédéterminés. Dans ce but, après avoir déterminé le ou les cylindres qui seront gravés en fonction des motifs, contours ou autres dont on veut bloquer la maille, on injecte, dans les cylindres sélectionnés (B) et (D) par exemple, une pâte d'impression qui va se déposer sur le tissu. Cette pâte d'impression est conformée pour assurer une liaison mécanique, des parties de maille correspondantes du tissu.According to a characteristic underlying the invention, before subjecting the fabric to the finishing operation, certain parts of the mesh of the fabric are blocked, according to predetermined designs and / or shapes. For this purpose, after having determined the cylinder or cylinders which will be engraved according patterns, contours or others whose mesh we want to block, we inject, into the selected cylinders (B) and (D) for example, a printing paste which will deposit on the fabric. This printing paste is shaped to provide a mechanical connection, corresponding mesh parts of the fabric.
Cette pâte d'impression est avantageusement du type de celle connue sous la marque LIANT OR distribuée par la société MINERPRINT. Cette pâte d'impression est utilisée avec un adoucissant également de tous types connus et appropriés. Pour 1 kg de pâte d'impression, on ajoute entre 5g et 20g d'adoucissant. Cette pâte d'impression peut être utilisée seule ou mélangée avec tout colorant, dans des proportions de 1g à 50g pour 1kg de pâte.This printing paste is advantageously of the type of that known under the brand LIANT OR distributed by the company MINERPRINT. This printing paste is used with a softener also of all known and suitable types. For 1 kg of printing paste, add between 5g and 20g of softener. This printing paste can be used alone or mixed with any dye, in proportions of 1g to 50g per 1kg of paste.
A la sortie de l'impression (figure 1), le tissu (T) présente donc une pluralité de motifs (1 ) avec des parties (2) dont la maille est bloquée.At the end of printing (Figure 1), the fabric (T) therefore has a plurality of patterns (1) with parts (2) whose mesh is blocked.
Le tissu (T) ainsi traité et imprimé est soumis à un apprêt consistant en une opération de grattage, pour obtenir un tissu dit "polaire". L'opération de grattage, s'effectue sur tous types de machines, par exemple celles connues sous le nom de "laineuse" ou "feutreuse" (G).The fabric (T) thus treated and printed is subjected to a finish consisting of a scraping operation, to obtain a so-called "polar" fabric. The scraping operation is carried out on all types of machines, for example those known under the name of "woolen" or "felter" (G).
Compte-tenu des parties bloquées de maille (2), l'opération de grattage n'aura d'effets que sur les autres parties (1) du tissu, où il sera possible de dégager les fils, afin d'obtenir l'aspect duveteux spécifique à un tissu polaire. Le grattage sera sans effet au niveau des parties bloquées de maille (2), étant donné que la pâte d'impression déposée sur ces parties, ne permet plus de dégager les fils. Ces parties (2) vont donc demeurer plates en opposition aux autres parties grattées qui vont apparaître en relief par rapport auxdites parties (2). Comme indiqué, les parties bloquées de la maille peuvent correspondre, soit à des motifs entiers (figure 5), soit seulement aux contours de la totalité ou de certains des motifs composant le tissu. Cette sélection est effectuée au niveau des cylindres d'impression.Taking into account the blocked parts of mesh (2), the scraping operation will only have effects on the other parts (1) of the fabric, where it will be possible to release the threads, in order to obtain the appearance downy specific to a fleece. Scraping will have no effect at the blocked parts of mesh (2), since the printing paste deposited on these parts, no longer allows to release the son. These parts (2) will therefore remain flat in opposition to the other scraped parts which will appear in relief with respect to said parts (2). As indicated, the blocked parts of the mesh can correspond either to whole patterns (FIG. 5), or only to the contours of all or some of the patterns composing the fabric. This selection is made at the level of the printing cylinders.
Le procédé de traitement selon l'invention, consistant en un blocage mécanique de certaines parties de la maille suivi d'une opération de grattage pour obtenir des effets de relief, est avantageusement combiné avec les dispositions décrites et revendiquées dans la demande de brevet FR 9301368. On rappelle à cet égard, que les caractéristiques définies dans cette demande de brevet permettent d'obtenir des tissus polaires de différents aspects, notamment du type molletonné, fourrure, peau d'agneau, moutonné, en combinant l'opération classique de grattage, avec des opérations du type veloutage et/ou rasage et/ou ébouriffage.The treatment method according to the invention, consisting of a mechanical blocking of certain parts of the mesh followed by a scraping operation to obtain relief effects, is advantageously combined with the arrangements described and claimed in patent application FR 9301368 In this respect, it is recalled that the characteristics defined in this patent application make it possible to obtain polar fabrics of different aspects, in particular of the quilted, fur, lambskin, sheepskin type, by combining the conventional scraping operation, with operations of the velvety and / or shaving and / or ruffling type.
Le procédé permet donc d'obtenir un tissu polaire présentant des parties non grattées, correspondant à certains motifs et/ou aux contours de latotalité ou de certains des motifs, afin de créer, en conséquence, des effets de relief.The method therefore makes it possible to obtain a polar fabric having non-scraped parts, corresponding to certain patterns and / or to the contours of the whole or of some of the patterns, in order to create, consequently, relief effects.
Les avantages ressortent bien de la description, en particulier on souligne et on rappelle :The advantages clearly emerge from the description, in particular it is emphasized and recalled:
- la simplicité de mise en oeuvre du produit,- the simplicity of implementation of the product,
- l'efficacité du résultat obtenu, - l'effet visuel obtenu, particulièrement agréable,- the effectiveness of the result obtained, - the visual effect obtained, particularly pleasant,
- les possibilités infinies des effets de relief que l'on peut obtenir,- the infinite possibilities of the relief effects that can be obtained,
- la netteté des contours séparant les parties qui apparaissent en relief, par rapport aux autres parties dont la maille a été préalblement bloquée. - the sharpness of the contours separating the parts which appear in relief, compared to the other parts whose mesh was previously blocked.
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR94/11535 | 1994-09-20 | ||
| FR9411535A FR2724673B1 (en) | 1994-09-20 | 1994-09-20 | METHOD FOR PRINTING AND TREATING A SOFT FABRIC AND THE FABRIC OBTAINED |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO1996009429A1 true WO1996009429A1 (en) | 1996-03-28 |
Family
ID=9467326
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/FR1995/001204 Ceased WO1996009429A1 (en) | 1994-09-20 | 1995-09-20 | Method for printing and processing a polar fabric, and resulting fabric |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2724673B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1996009429A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0823506A3 (en) * | 1996-08-05 | 1998-07-08 | William J. Squires | Flocked fabric with laid down fibers |
| EP1176240A3 (en) * | 2000-07-20 | 2002-06-05 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Fabrics with surfaces of contrasting colors and/or different contour |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1109686A (en) * | 1954-10-02 | 1956-01-31 | Effects of local scraping, woolen and suede on fabrics, knitted hosiery and skins | |
| FR1127410A (en) * | 1955-01-21 | 1956-12-17 | H Pervilhac & Cie Ets | Improvements to processes for the ornamentation of pile fabrics |
| FR1483964A (en) * | 1966-04-29 | 1967-06-09 | Maille Expansion | Synthetic fabric with the appearance of hit velor |
| FR2300161A1 (en) * | 1975-02-06 | 1976-09-03 | Colortex Sa | PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A RELIEF DURING THE WOOLING AND FINISHING OF FABRICS |
| FR2701041A1 (en) * | 1993-02-02 | 1994-08-05 | Vernay Fils A | Method of manufacturing a so-called "polar" fabric and the resulting fabric |
-
1994
- 1994-09-20 FR FR9411535A patent/FR2724673B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1995
- 1995-09-20 WO PCT/FR1995/001204 patent/WO1996009429A1/en not_active Ceased
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1109686A (en) * | 1954-10-02 | 1956-01-31 | Effects of local scraping, woolen and suede on fabrics, knitted hosiery and skins | |
| FR1127410A (en) * | 1955-01-21 | 1956-12-17 | H Pervilhac & Cie Ets | Improvements to processes for the ornamentation of pile fabrics |
| FR1483964A (en) * | 1966-04-29 | 1967-06-09 | Maille Expansion | Synthetic fabric with the appearance of hit velor |
| FR2300161A1 (en) * | 1975-02-06 | 1976-09-03 | Colortex Sa | PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A RELIEF DURING THE WOOLING AND FINISHING OF FABRICS |
| FR2701041A1 (en) * | 1993-02-02 | 1994-08-05 | Vernay Fils A | Method of manufacturing a so-called "polar" fabric and the resulting fabric |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0823506A3 (en) * | 1996-08-05 | 1998-07-08 | William J. Squires | Flocked fabric with laid down fibers |
| EP1176240A3 (en) * | 2000-07-20 | 2002-06-05 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Fabrics with surfaces of contrasting colors and/or different contour |
| US6685749B1 (en) | 2000-07-20 | 2004-02-03 | Malden Mills Industries, Inc. | Fabrics with surfaces of contrasting colors and/or different contour |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2724673B1 (en) | 1997-01-10 |
| FR2724673A1 (en) | 1996-03-22 |
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