WO1994028861A1 - Hair treatment composition containing a polyalkylarylsiloxane or a polyorganosiloxane oil with hydroxyalkyl functionality and a cationic cellulose ether - Google Patents

Abstract

This composition includes, in an aqueous medium: a polyalkylarylsiloxane or polyorganosiloxane oil with hydroxyalkyl functionality, a foaming agent selected from cationic cellulose ethers, the weight ratio of the silicone oil and the cationic cellulose ether ranging from 8 to 100. The invention is useful for hair treatment applications.

Description

CAPI LLAIRE COMPOSITION CONTAINING POLYALKYLARYLSILOXANE OR POLYORGANOSILOXANE OIL HAVING HYDROXYALKYL FUNCTION AND A CATIONIC CELLULOSE ETHER.

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic shine hair composition based on polyalkylarylsiloxane oil or on polyorganosiloxane with hydroxyalkyl function and of a cationic cellulose ether in the form of a foam, as well as a method of treatment. hair with said composition. Polyalkylarylsiloxane oils and those of polyorganosiloxane with hydroxyalkyl function are known in the field of hair cosmetics and have been used as agents. conditioning of the hair, in particular to obtain shiny hair. These are essentially polyphenylmethylsiloxane or polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils and ydydymethylsiloxane oils with γ-hydroxypropyl function present in cosmetic compositions which are generally applied to the hair in the form of gels or packaged in aerosols or in bottles. pumps to form sprays. In particular, patent application EP-A-0351 297 describes cosmetic gloss hair compositions containing as conditioning agents polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with γ-hydroxypropyl function, being in the form of gels or sprays . These gloss compositions in the form of gels or sprays have the main defect of imparting a greasy effect to the hair.

It would therefore be desirable to provide a cosmetic shine composition which gives shine to the hair similar to that of known compositions but with a less greasy effect. The Applicant has found that by presenting the cosmetic shine hair composition in the form of a foam using as foaming agent particular cationic cellulose ethers, a cosmetic hair gloss composition was obtained making it possible to adjust the amount of silicone oil deposited. to reduce the greasy effect on the hair while ensuring good distribution of the application and avoiding the wet touch of the hair.

Cationic cellulose ethers providing aqueous solutions with improved viscosity and foaming properties are described in European patent application EP-A-0189 935. These cationic cellulose ethers which contain hydrophobically substituted quaternary nitrogen have been found to be agents conditioning agents particularly suitable for the formulation of skin conditioning foam, skin cream, conditioning shampoo, hair conditioners, hand lotions, aftershave gels and bubble baths.

In the article entitled "a new cationic cellulosic surfactant polymer (a New Surface Active Cationic Cellulosic Polymer)" published in the journal COSMETICS & TOILETRIES volume 100, July 1985, pages 41 to 47, E. DESMOND GODDARD & DAVID

B. BRAUN have shown that a cationic cellulose ether as described in patent application EP-0 189 935, and available from the company UNION CARBIDE under the brand QUATRISOFT LM200, is particularly suitable for the formulation of aerosol foams for the hair and skin treatment.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic shine hair composition, in the form of a foam, which when applied to hair, preferably on dry hair, gives the hair a shine at least analogous to the shine compositions. of the prior art, with a less greasy effect and avoiding wet touch of the hair.

The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of the hair using these compositions.

Other objects of the invention will appear on reading the description and the examples which follow.

The main object of the present invention therefore is a cosmetic gloss hair composition, in the form of a foam, containing, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one silicone oil chosen from polyalkylarylsiloxanes and polyorganosiloxanes having a function hydroxyalkyl; at least one foaming agent for silicone oil chosen from cationic cellulose ethers corresponding to the formula:

dans laquelle R est un radical alkyle ayant au moins 8 atomes de carbone, de préférence 10 à 24 atomes de carbone et mieux 10 à 18 atomes de carbone, A^" est un anion ou un mélange d'anions, v est égal à la valence de A, n est un nombre entier compris entre 50 et 20000 environ, de préférence 100 à 6000 et mieux encore 250 à 4000, x est un nombre entier compris entre 0 et 6, et y est un nombre entier compris entre 0 et 3, de préférence entre 0 et 2, à la condition que le taux de substitution cationique, CS, soit supérieur à 0, le rapport pondéral entre l'huile de silicone et l'éther de cellulose cationique étant compris entre 8 et 100 et de préférence entre 15 et 50.

in which R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 18 carbon atoms, A ^" is an anion or a mixture of anions, v is equal to valence from A, n is an integer between 50 and 20,000 approximately, preferably 100 to 6,000 and better still 250 to 4,000, x is an integer between 0 and 6, and y is an integer between 0 and 3, preferably between 0 and 2, provided that the cationic substitution rate, CS, is greater than 0, the weight ratio between the silicone oil and the cationic cellulose ether being between 8 and 100 and preferably between 15 and 50.

In a recommended form, the composition according to the invention is packaged as an aerosol to form a foam after expansion in air, said composition also containing a propellant.

The silicone oils used as the glossing agents in the compositions of the present invention are well known in the art and are available commercially. These oils are polyalkylarylsiloxane oils or polyorganosiloxane oils with a hydroxyalkyl function.

The polyalkylarylsiloxane oils suitable for the present invention are polydimethyldiphenylsiloxane oils and polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils. Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes recommended, mention may be made of the polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes sold by the company RHÔNE-POULENC under the name SELBIONE® and the polyphenylmethylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ABIL® AV20-200-350-1000.

The hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes suitable for the present invention, as well as their methods of preparation, are particularly described in European application EP-A-0351 297. More specifically, the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes suitable for the compositions of the present invention correspond to the following formula:

Ri (Rl) ₃ Si -O - Si (RD ₂ J- O Si (R ^l ) ₃ ( ^Π )

in which the radicals R ¹ , which are identical or different, are chosen from the methyl and phenyl radicals, at least 60 mol% of the radicals R ¹ being methyl radicals, the radical R ² is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon alkylene chain comprising 2 to 18 carbon atoms, p is a number between 1 and 30 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 20 inclusive; and q is a number between 1 and 120 inclusive.

The hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxane useful in the present invention can be an alternating or random copolymer.

Among the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes which are particularly recommended for the present invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II) above in which:

R ² represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon alkylene chain, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and more particularly, a trimethylene chain: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or a methyl 2-trimethylene chain: -CH ₂ CH (CH3 ) CH ₂ -.

Among the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (I), it is preferred to use those whose number-average molar mass is between 600 and 10,000. Polyorganosiloxanes with a function hydroxyalkyl of formula (II) more particularly recommended are represented by the products of molar mass in number ranging between

1000 and 10000, for which p is between 1 and 5 and q is between 10 and 100. These hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (II) are known in the industry and can be prepared according to methods known in the art such as those described in French patent n ° 8516334 or European application EP-A-0 351 297.

Processes for the preparation of hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (H) are also described in detail in US-A-2,970,150 and 4,160,775.

It is particularly recommended to use in the present invention polyorganosiloxanes with γ-hydroxyalkyl function and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with γ-hydroxypropyl function. Such polydimethylsiloxane oils with a γ-hydroxypropyl function are also commercially available, in particular from the company Rhône Poulenc under the brand

SILBIONE.

The compositions according to the present invention contain, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, relative to the total weight of the composition, 6 to 30%, preferably 10 to 20% of silicone oil serving as a glossing agent.

The cationic cellulose ethers used as foaming agent in the compositions of the present invention are known and are described as well as their methods of preparation in European application EP-0189 935.

In the formula (I) defined above, A is an anion, including mixtures of anions.

Among the anions A which are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the chloride, bromide, iodide, sulphate, methyl sulphate, sulphonate, nitrate, phosphate and acetate anions. Monovalent anions, in particular halogens, and more particularly chloride, are recommended.

The preferred compounds are those in which R represents the lauryl radical. The number of recurring cellulose units, defined by n in the formula (I) is usually between 50 and 20,000 approximately, preferably between 100 and 6000 and better still between 250 and 4000. The corresponding molar masses of the cationic cellulose polyether are generally between several thousands and several millions. . The etherification rate due to the oxyethylene substituents, as defined by x in formula (I), varies from 0 to 6, i.e. x is an integer from 0 to 6.

The total etherification rate is defined as the average number of moles supplied by the etherification agent per mole of recurring cellulose unit. The total etherification rate, as defined, is usually greater than 0, preferably from about 1.2 to about 4.5 and more preferably from about 1.8 to about 3.6.

The number of quaternary nitrogen atoms per substituent, defined by y in formula (I), is between 0 and 3, and preferably between 0 and 2. The rate of quaternization (or cationic substitution), CS, is defined as the molar average of the quaternary nitrogen atoms per mole of recurring cellulose unit. The cation substitution rate is greater than 0, preferably less than 1 and better between 0.01 and 0.6. For more detail as to the cationic cellulose ethers suitable in the present invention and to their methods of preparation, reference is made to European patent EP-A-0189

935.

A particularly recommended cationic cellulose ether is a hydroxyethylcellulose ether corresponding to formula (I) for which the radical R is the lauryl radical and the anion is Cl ^" . Such a recommended cationic cellulose ether is commercially available by the company UNION CARBIDE under the brand QUATRISOFT LM 200. The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention contain, with respect to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 1% of ether of cationic cellulose corresponding to formula (I).

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the silicone and the cationic cellulose ether defined above, a thickener. Can be used as thickening agent in the compositions of the present invention, cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum or its derivatives, polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, crosslinked or not, copolymers ethylene / maleic anhydride, crosslinked copolymers of methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, xanthan gum, and scleroglucans. The composition can also be thickened by using the product resulting from the ionic interaction of a cationic polymer constituted by a cellulose copolymer or a cellulose derivative grafted with a salt of water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and a polymer anionic carboxylic having an absolute capillary viscosity in dimethylformamide or methanol, at a concentration of 5% and at 30 ° C, less than or equal to 30 10 " ³ Pa, as described more particularly in French Patent No. 2,598,611 Polymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, in particular polyacrylic acid, for example the product sold by the company SIGMA under the name SYNTHALEN K® and ethyl acrylate terpolymers, are particularly recommended as thickening agents. / methacrylic acid / oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate and more particularly the product sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the name A CRYSOL® ICS- 1CG.

The concentration of thickening agent in the compositions of the invention varies between 0.1 and 5%, preferably 0.2 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can be constituted by water or by a mixture of water and alcohol. The alcohols suitable in the compositions of the present invention are the lower alcohols in - C ₄ and preferably ethyl alcohol. Also preferably, the alcohol is present in the composition according to the invention in proportions of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of these compositions is generally close to neutral and is adjusted using conventional basifying or acidifying agents, usually used in the cosmetic field. The compositions according to the present invention can also comprise adjuvants such as perfumes, preservatives and conditioning agents such as optionally quaternized proteins, maintenance polymers which may be mentioned among them, without limitation, pol y vinylpyrrolidone and its vinyl acetate copolymer, the non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, the vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylarninoethyl methacrylate copolymer, vinylmethyl ether / maleic anhydride monoesterified copolymer of butanol vinyl acetate on polyethylene glycol and cationic agents such as for example: cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides and oleocetyldimethyl hydroxyethylammonium chlorides and cetyldimethyl-hydroxyethylammonium hydrogen phosphate. In a recommended embodiment, the gloss cosmetic hair compositions according to the present invention are in the form of aerosol foams and additionally comprise a propellant, to form a foam at the time of expulsion.

Any known propellant can be used as propellant, such as, more particularly, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, compressed air, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, hydrocarbon mixtures such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, with chlorofluorinated hydrocarbons. Preferably, the alkanes and their mixtures will be used as propellant in proportions not exceeding 80% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic treatment process using the compositions according to the invention essentially consists in applying, without this application being followed by rinsing, the composition according to the invention in the form of a foam on the hair, and in particular on dry hair, in order to improve its shine, while giving them a light and swelling appearance, without greasy effect.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1

Preparing a hair mousse having the following composition

Polydimethylsiloxane with γ-hydroxypropyl function sold under the name SILBIONE® Oil 71.615 V500 by the company Rhône Poulenc 15 g

Quatrisoft® LM 200 sold by the company UNION CARBIDE 0.5 g

-Te acrylolymer of ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid / oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate (55/35/10) in aqueous solution at 30% sold by the company Rohm and Haas under the name Acrysol® ICS-lCG 0.3 g MA

2-amino-2-methyl-propanol-1 qs pH: 8

Perfume, color, preservative qs

Demineralized water qs 100 g

Aerosol packaging Composition above 90

Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55% - propane sold by the company ELF- AQUITAINE under the name AEROGAZ® 3.2 N 10 g

The mousse is applied to wet or dry hair, preferably dry. The hair is shiny and light and without oily appearance. EXAMPLE 2

A hair mousse having the following composition is prepared:

Polydimethyldiphenyl siloxane sold under the name SILBIONE® Oil 70641 V 200 by the company Rhône Poulenc 10 g

Quatrisoft® LM 200 sold by Union

Carbide 0.4 g

Ethyl acrylate / methacrylic acid / oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate (55/35/10) in aqueous solution at 30% sold by the company Rohm and Haas under the name Acrysol® ICS-1CG 0.4 g MA

2-amino-2-methyl-propanol-1 qs pH: 8

Perfume, color, preservative qs

Demineralized water qs 100 g

Aerosol packaging: Composition above 90 g

Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55% -propane 10 g sold by the company ELF- AQUITAINE under the name AEROGAZ® 3.2 N

This foam is applied to wet or dry hair, preferably dry. The hair is shiny, light and without oily appearance. EXAMPLE 3

Preparing a hair mousse having the following composition

Polydimethylsiloxane with γ-hydroxypropyl function sold under the name SILBIONE® oil 71,615 V 500 by the company Rhône Poulenc 30 g

Quatrisoft® LM 200 sold by the company UNION

CARBID 3 g

Polyacrylic acid sold by SIGMA under the name SYNTHALEN® K 0.2 g

Triethanolamine qs pH: 7.5

Perfume, color, preservative qs

Ethyl alcohol 8.5 g

Demineralized water qs 100 £

Aerosol packaging: Composition above 90 g

Ternary mixture: butane-isobutane> 55% -propane sold by the company ELF- AQUITAINE under the name AEROGAZ® 3.2 N 10

The mousse is applied to wet or dry hair, preferably dry. The hair is shiny, light and without oily appearance.

Claims

1. Hair gloss cosmetic composition, in foam form, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium: - At least one silicone oil chosen from polyalkylaryl¬ siloxanes and polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function; - at least one foaming agent for silicone oil chosen from cationic cellulose ethers corresponding to the formula

in which R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 carbon atoms, A ^" is an anion or a mixture of anions, v is equal to the valence of A, n is an integer between 50 and 20,000 approximately, x is an integer of 0 and 6 and, y is an integer of 0 to 3, preferably 0 to 2, provided that the rate of cationic substitution, CS, is greater than 0, the weight ratio between the oil of silicone and the cationic cellulose ether being between 8 and 100. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that in the compounds of formula (I) R represents an alkyl radical containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, A ^" is a halide , n is an integer between 100 and 6000 and preferably between 250 and 4000. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen from polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes and polyphenylmethylsiloxanes. 4. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function correspond to the formula Ri (Rl) ₃ Si -f-0- Si lL _θ - _S i (Rl) T ₂ J- 0 Si (Rl) ₃ (H) R ^J PI OH 0 in which the radicals R ¹ , which are identical or different, are chosen from the methyl and phenyl radicals, at least 60 mol% of the radicals R ¹ being methyl radicals, the radical R ² is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon alkylene chain 5, having 2 to 18 carbon atoms; p is a number between 1 and 30 inclusive, preferably 1 to 20 inclusive; and q is a number between 1 and 120 inclusive. 0 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that R ² is a divalent hydrocarbon alkylene chain having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that R ² is tCH ^ or -CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ -. 5 CT 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it also contains a thickening agent. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen Among the cellulose derivatives, guar gum and its derivatives, xanthan gum, scleroglucans, ethylene / maleic anhydride copolymers, crosslinked methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polymers and copolymers ~ E of acrylic acid, crosslinked or not. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of silicone oil to cationic cellulose ether is between 15 and 50. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, 6 to 30%, preferably 10 to 20%, of silicone oil and 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.2 to 1% of cationic cellulose ether. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of 0.1 to 5% and preferably of 0.2 to 1% of agent thickening. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically suitable aqueous medium comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 0 to 20% alcohol. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises adjuvants chosen from perfumes, preservatives and conditioning agents. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in the form of an aerosol in the presence of a propellant, to form a foam at the time of expulsion. 15. Cosmetic hair treatment method, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to it, without this application being followed by rinsing.