Hair Cosmetic
Technical Field
The présent invention reiates to hair styling mousse products. In particular it relates to non-aerosol hair styling mousse products which provide optimum foaming, hair setting, hair feel and hair conditioning characteristics while reducing stickiness and being easily spreadable on the hair.
Backαround of the Invention
The désire to hâve hair retain a particular shape or configuration is one that is widely held. It is possible to alter the shape of the hair either permanently or temporarily. Permanent altération invoives the use of chemical agents to react with the hair in order to achieve the desired effect. This process can be carried out at either room or elevated température.
The temporary set given to hair is, as the term indicates, a temporary arrangement which can be removed by water or by shampooing. The materials used to provide the set hâve generally been resins or gums. The temporary set compositions hâve taken the form of gels, lotions and sprays as well as others. The compositions are applied most often to hair dampened with water, combed or by other means spread through the hair and let dry. The set given will vary depending on the materials used.
In récent years a form of a temporary set has been achieved by means of an aérosol foam - a mousse. The gênerai appeal of mousses can be largely attributed to the ease of application and controlled amount of product which are possible from mousse formulations. Mousse formulations can easily be
worked through the hair and can provide a set comparable to that given by a gel or a lotion. Thèse products are generally applied to the user's hand and worked through the hair.
The conventional hair styling mousse generally utilizes a water soluble polymer, water, possibly a conditioning agent, an emulsifier, aesthetic agents and the propellant. More recently, however, due to an increasing public awareness of the effects of volatile orgaπic compounds, such as aérosol propellants, on the enviroπment, hair styling mousse products hâve been formulated without a propellant and dispensed from a manually-actuable container so as to be of the non-aerosol type. Unfortunately, however, there are a number of problems associated with non-aerosol products. In particular they provide mousses which are of poor foam quality and stability and which are undesirably sticky. Moreover, many of thèse formulations are lacking in hair holding, hair feel or hair conditioning characteristics.
It would be désirable to provide a non-aerosol, hair styling mousse product which provides a high quality mousse with the desired combination of good initial foam formation, foam breakdown under shear, non-soapiness and easy spreadability, while at the same time not being too sticky. It would also be désirable to provide a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product with improved foaming quality together with good hold, hair feel and conditioning.
It has πow been fouπd that by iπcluding an amphoteric surfactant and a water- soluble cationic surfactant in a πoπ-aerosol mousse composition containiπg certain polymer resins, a mousse is provided which possesses the desired characteristics of good quality foaming, easy spreadability, non-stickiness, hold, feel and conditioning.
Accordingly it is an object of the présent invention to provide a superior non- aerosol hair styling mousse product by incorporating therein a selected mixture of amphoteric surfactant, water-soluble cationic surfactant and polymer resins.
AH percentages and ratios used herein are by weight unless otherwise specified.
Summary of the Invention
According to one aspect of the présent invention there is provided a hair styling mousse product comprising a manually-actuable, non-aerosol dispenser equipped with a réservoir, spray head and liquid/air mixing means, wherein the réservoir contains a hair-styling mousse composition comprising:
(i) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a nonionic, amphoteric or anionic hair setting polymer resin, and/or
(ii) from about 0.5 % to about 10 % by weight of composition of a polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin,
(iii) from about 0.1 % to about 3 % by weight of composition of an . amphoteric surfactant,
(iv) from about 0.01 % to about 1 % by weight of composition of a water-soluble cationic surfactant, and
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(v) water or a water/solvent mixture.
Highly preferred herein are amphoteric surfactants having the formula (I)
R2
R1 [ CONH ( CH2 ) n ] χN ( + ) — CH2 (R4 ) mZ ( - )
R3
wherein R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyl radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally interupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety, R2 and R3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, 4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphoπate or sulphate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or 1.
Detailed Description of the Invention
In accordance with one aspect of the présent invention a non-aerosol hair styling mousse product is formed comprising a manually-actuable dispenser containing a réservoir, dispensing head, and liquid/air mixing means, the réservoir comprising a hair styling mousse composition. The présent invention also relates to the mousse composition itself and to use thereof in a manually- actuable dispenser.
The hair styling mousse composition of the présent invention comprises a nonionic, anionic or amphoteric hair setting polymer resin, and/or a cationic
5 hair conditioning polymer resin, an amphoteric surfactant, a water-soluble cationinc surfactant and water or a water/solvent mixture.
The hair setting polymer resin is preferabiy présent in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, more preferabiy from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. Hair setting resins suitable for use herein include any resin soluble or colloidally dispersible in the aqueous phase (if water is the only solvent in the aqueous phase, the resin should be soluble or dispersible in water; if an optional cosolvent such as ethanol is présent the resin should be soluble or dispersible in the combined solvent System). Solubility/dispersibility is determined at ambient conditions of température and pressure (25°C at 1 At). Resins for use in the compositions of the présent invention include anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric resins. Spécifie resins for use herein include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and methylmethacrylate, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate, polyvinyl alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrène sulfonate, polyvinylpyrrolidone/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferred resins for use in the compositions of the présent invention include polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acétate, and mixtures thereof. Such resins are available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM), a most preferred resin being Luviskol VA64 (PVA/VA 60/40). The mass average molecular weight of the hair setting polymer resin is generally in the range from about 2.000 to about 2,000,000.
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The polycationic hair conditioning polymer resin is preferabiy présent in an amount of from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, preferabiy from about 1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. As an essential aspect, the hair conditioning resins hereof must comprise monomers of a cationic character. For convenience in describing the polymers hereof, monomeric units présent in the polymers may be referred to as the monomers from which they can be derived. The cationic monomers can be derived from polymerizable cationic starting monomers, or from polymerizable nonionic monomers which are modified subséquent to polymerization to be of cationic character.
Examples of the cationic monomers include:
(i) monomers derived from acrylic acid or methacryiic acid, which is referred to hereinafter collectively as (meth)acryiic acid, and a quaternarized epihalohydrin product of a trialkyl aminé having 1 to 5 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as (methy)acryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and (meth)acryioxypropyltriethylammonium bromide;
(ii) aminé derivatives of (meth)acrylic acid or aminé derivatives of
(meth)acrylamide derived from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide and a dialkylalkanolamiπe hâve C-1-C4 alkyl groups such as dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylamiπopropyl (meth)acrylate. or dimethylamiπopropyl (meth)acrylamide; and
(iii) derivatives of the products of the group (ii) above by (1) neutralization with an acid such as hydrochloric acid, or lactic acid, (2) modification
with a halogenated alkyl, such as methyl chloride, ethyl chloride, methyl bromide, or ethyl iodide, (3) modification with a halogenated fatty acid ester such as ethyi monochloroacetate, or methyl monochloropropionate, and (4) modification with a dialkyl sulfate such as dimethyl sulfate, or diethyl sulfate.
Furthermore, the cationic unsaturated monomers include aminé derivatives of allyl compounds such as diallyidimethylammonium chloride and the like as weil as vinylimidazolium quatemary ammonium monomers.
Thèse cationic unsaturated monomers can be polymerized in cationic form, or as an alternative they can be polymerized in the form of their precursors, which are then modified to be cationic, for example, by a quaternizing agent (eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.).
Preferred cationic monomers include dimethylamiπoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium quatemary ammonium monomers and mixtures thereof.
The hair conditioning polymers hereof should contain at least about 1%, by weight, cationic monomer, preferabiy at least about 2%, more preferabiy at least about 5%.The cationic resins hereof can also contain nonionic monomers includiπg, both high polarity monomers and low polarity monomers. The cationic resins hereof will generally comprise from about 1% to 100% cationic monomers and from 0% to about 99% nonionic monomers, preferabiy from about 2% to about 75% cationic monomers and from about 25% to about 98%
S nonionic monomers, more preferabiy from about 5% to about 50% cationic monomers and from about 50% to about 95% nonionic monomers.
Représentative examples nonionic moπomers are acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of C-1-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol,
1-butanol, 2-methyl-1-propanol, 1-peπtanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl- 1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-l-pentanol, 2- methyi-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol, t-butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1- butanol, 3-heptanol, beπzyl alcohol, 2-octanol, S-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1- hexaπol, 3,5-dimethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-l-hexaπol, 1-decanol, 1- dodecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, and the like, the alcohols having from about 1-24 preferabiy from about 4-18, more preferabiy from about 4-12 carbon atoms; styrène; chiorostyrene; vinyl esters such as vinyl acétate; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; acrylonitrile; alpha-methylstyrene; t-butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyl toluène; alkoxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, such as methoxy ethyl (meth)acrylate and butoxyethyl (meth)acrylate; and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic monomers include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, 1,3-butyleneglycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, diacetonacrylamide, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, and the like.
Preferred nonionic monomers include π-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyihexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, t-butylacrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
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Représentative polar nonionic monomers include acrylamide, N,N- dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, methacryionitrile, acrylamide, acrylate alcohols (eg. C2-C6 acrylate alcohols such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hdroxyproxyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lactones and vinyl pyridine, allyl alcohols, vinyl alcohols and vinyl caprolactam.
Preferred polycationic polymer resins for use herein include cationic polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, especiaily from alkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkyleπe imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines, vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quatemary ammonium copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Of thèse, preferred cationic polymers are cationic guar gums, for example, hydroxyproxyltrimethylammonium guar gum, quaternized cellulose ethers such as copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose with diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride or with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, homopolymers of lower alkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers (e.g. dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate) and copolymers thereof with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or with alkyl methacrylates such as methyl , ethyl, abietyl and oleyl methacrylates and mixtures therof and/or with alkyl acrylates such as methyl and butyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, homopolymers of
/02115
10 dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, vinylimidazolium/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
By way of exemplification, cationic polymers preferred for use herein include hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium guar gum (d.s. of from 0.11 to 0.22) available commercially under the trade names Jaguar C-17(RTM), and also Jaguar C-16(RTM), which contains hydroxypropyl substituents (d.s. of from 0.8-1.1) in addition to the above-specified cationic groups, quaternized cellulose ethers available commercially under the trade names Ucare Polymer JR and Celquat (e.g. Celquat L200), homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride available commercially under the trade name Merquat 100, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide available copolymers commercially under the trade name Merquat 550 and Merquat S, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidoπe/alkylamiπoacrylate or methacrylate copolymers commercially under the trade name Gafquat (RTM), and methylvinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quatemary ammonium copolymers commercially available under the tradename Luviquat(RTM).
The amphoteric surfactant is présent at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 3 %, preferabiy from about 0.3 % to about 2 % by weight of composition. Suitable amphoteric surfactants for use herein hâve the gênerai formula (l)
R'
R1[CONH(CH2)n] )—CH2(R4)mZ(-)
wherein R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl. or hydroxyalkyl radical of from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, optionally interupted with up to about 10 ethylene oxide
1 1 moieties and/or 1 glyceryl moiety, R2 and R3 are individually selected from alkyl and monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms, R4 is alkylene, or hydroxyalkylene of from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, Z is a radical selected from carboxylate, sulphonate or sulphate, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 6, and m is 0 or . Preferabiy, x is 0 or 1 , n is from about 1 to about 3, Z is carboxylate, and R1 is an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms. When Z is carboxylate, the formula (I) covers a class of compounds known generally as betaines.
Examples of betaines useful herein include the high alkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma- carboxypropyi betaine, and lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Preferred betaines for use in the présent compositions are coco amidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, and oleyl betaine. A most preferred betaine is coco amidopropyl betaine.
Other suitable amphoteric surfactants for use in the compositions of the invention include:
(a) imidazolinium surfactants of formula (II)
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wherein R-| is C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, R2 is hydrogen or CH2Z, each Z is independently CO2M or CH2CO2M, and M is H, alkali métal, alkaline earth métal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; and/or ammonium derivatives of formula (III)
R2
wherein R-* , R2 and Z are as defined above;
(b) aminoalkanoates of formula (IV)
R-( NH(CH2)nCθ2M
and iminodialkanoates of formula (V)
Rl N[(CH2) CO2M]2
wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R-| and M are independently selected from the groups specified above; and
(c) mixtures thereof.
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Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are marketed under the trade name Miranol (RTM) and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species. Traditionally, the Miranols hâve been described as having the gênerai formula II, although the CTFA Cosmetic Ingrédient Dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure III. In practice, a complex mixture of cyclic and non-cyclic species is likely to exist and both définitions are given hère for sake of completeness. Preferred for use herein, however, are the non-cyclic species.
Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) include compounds of formula II and/or III in which R-| is CgH-(7 (especially iso-capryl), CgH-jg and
C-| 1 H23 alkyl. Especially preferred are the compounds in which R-| is CgH-jg,
Z is CO2M and R2 is H; the compounds in which R-| is C-| 1 H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is CH2CO2M; and the compounds in which R-| is C-* 1 H23, Z is CO2M and R2 is H.
In CTFA nomenclature, materials preferred for use in the présent invention include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxy propionic acid, and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (otherwise referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate). Spécifie commercial products include those sold under the trade names of Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60 (Albright & Wilson), Miranol C2M Conc. N.P., Miranol C2M Conc. O.P., Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CM Spécial (Miranol, Inc.); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries); Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher Chemicals).
Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino
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14 propionic acid and N-lauryl-imiπo-dipropionic acid. Such materials are sold under the trade name Deriphat by General Mills and Mirataiπe by Miranol Inc. Amphoterics preferred for use herein, however, are those of formula II and/or
Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the présent invention are water- soluble and contain amino or quatemary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the présent invention. Preferabiy the cationic surfactant has a critical micelle concentration for the pure material (CMC) of greater than 200 ppm measured at 30°C in distilled water. Literature values are taken where possible, especially surface tension or conductimetric values - see Critical Micelle Concentrations of Aqueous Surfactant Systems, P. Mukerjee and K.J. Mysels, NSRDS-NBS 36, (1971). Cationic surfactants materials among those useful herein are disclosed in the following documents: M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon's, Détergents & Emulsifiers, (North American édition 1979); Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Iπterscience Publishers, 1949; U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,591 , Hiifer, issued Nov. 3, 1964; U.S. Pat No. 3,929,678, Laughlin, et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975; U.S. Pat No. 3,959,461 , Bailey, et al., issed May 25, 1976; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090, Bolich, Jr., issued June 7, 1983.
Among the quatemary ammonium-coπtainiπg cationic surfactant materials useful herein are those of the gênerai formula (VI):
?2
R: N ( + ) — R2 χ ( - )
R2