WO1989008410A1

WO1989008410A1 - Automatic belt loop inserter

Info

Publication number: WO1989008410A1
Application number: PCT/AU1989/000080
Authority: WO
Inventors: Paul Charles Wong
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1988-03-07
Filing date: 1989-03-02
Publication date: 1989-09-21
Anticipated expiration: 1990-09-07

Abstract

A device for the semi-automatic or automatic metering, cutting, fault detection, and placement and sewing of belt loops on-the-move, into correct positions as stored in a control computer program, varied by matching to garment features, as the waistband is sewn onto a garment comprising means to meter and cut a fixed but adjustable loop length, means to detect less or more than the optimum belt loop thickness, means to eject the faulty loops, means to deliver and fold the loop to the correct position on the waistband on-the-move as determined by data stored in the control means, and means to cause a variation to the theoretical loop position where required, in order to match the loop to some feature on the garment which is detected by a sensor means.

Description

AUTOMATIC BELT LOOP INSERTER

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

This invention relates to an apparatus for the semi automatic and automatic attachment of component pieces to the body of a garment, using sensory devices to locate the said pieces relatively to the position of other features on the body of the garment. More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention is applicable to increasing the automation and easing the manual task of attachment of trouser belt bands and belt loops onto the trouser body in a single operation.

The current practice in workclothes design for trouser bands and belt loops is shown in Fig 1. The waist band is formed from two strips of fabric, an outer waistband strip 1 , and an inner waistband strip, 2, each is hemmed on both edges and facing inwards towards each other. Trapped between the lower edges of the two hemmed strips, 1 & 2, is the trouser panel, 3. Belt loops, 4, are distributed along the waist band, and inserted at various intervals between the strips, 1 & 2, in a manner where the top of the loop, 4, is trapped between the outer and inner band strips, 1 & 2, respectively, and the bottom of the loop, 4, is trapped between the outer waistband strip, 1 , and the trouser panel, 3. This operation is now performed by a specially designed set of folders mounted on a twin needle sewing machine as shown in Fig 2. The inwards hemming of the outer and inner waistband strips, 1 & 2, are performed by special folders, 5

& 6, respectively, which are mounted above and below the sewing platform, 7. The outer and inner waistband strips, 1 & 2, are normally presented as continuous rolls, 8 & 9. As the sewing head, 10, is operated it will pull the waistband strips, 1 & 2, through the folders, 5 & 6, which will hem each side of the two waistband strips, 1 & 2, so that the hems will face together and funnel together to meet under the twin needles, 1 1, of a sewing head, 10. The trouser panel, 3, is inserted between the hemmed bands, 1 &.2, just before their confluence, so that the assembly of two waistbands and the trouser panel are sewn together. When it is necessary to insert a belt loop, 4. the sewing machine is stopped, a belt loop folded around the top waistband, 1 , by hand at its entry to the folder 5, and sewing is resumed until the next belt loop position, where this loop insertion process is repeated The position of each belt loop, 4, must be remembered by the operator for every style and size of trouser. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is the object of this invention to overcome the need for the operator to stop and start the sewing machine for the placement of each belt loop, and to remove the need for the operator to know the position of each belt loop for each trouser design style and size.

A further object of this invention concerns an automatic system that will meter out, cut, and reject faulty belt loops from continuous strips, and insert and position the belt loops on the run for the sewing operator while she performs only the guiding function of the trouser panel into the sewing head. The number and position of each belt loop for every garment style and size is stored in the control computer memory so that the operator simply selects on the control panel the relevant style and size of the particular bundle of trouser she is sewing; the operation is completely de-skilied.

A further object of the invention is that, because the trouser panels may not be accurately and repeatably assembled, the placement of the belt loops by accurate positioning may not give the most attractive finish to the assembled trouser, therefore it is preferred that some of the belt loops are placed in some desired relationship to trouser features such as seams, darts, and other prominent features. Although the present invention is described in context of its application to the semi-automatic assembly of worktrouser waistband and loops, it is equally applicable, although in a form different in detail to that described herewithin, to other forms of attachment of belt loops, for example to the waistband on jeans, where the belt loops are attached externally by bartacks to the outer waistband. In this variant, the pair of jeans already with waistband attached will be automatically indexed so that the waistband will stop under the bartacking needles at each belt loop position, for the placement and sewing of the loop. As in the foregoing example, the number and positions of the loops will be stored in the control computer, so that once recalled for that style and size of jeans, all the loops will be automatically positioned, and where necessary adjusted from their theoretical position to match a seam or other salient feature. Waistband sensors will ensure that the waistband is in the correct transverse position to receive the belt loop. Such an automatic belt loop attachment machine will enable the operator to operate multiple machines, requiring only to load and unload the garments. This example is described in concept only, as it can be readily implemented by someone skilled in the art. Another trouser application is for fashion and suit trousers, in which the belt loops are generally attached in a manner midway between that used for worktrousers and jeans. The top of these belt loops are normally bartacked to the outer waistband and the bottom of the belt loop inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel. An implementation for this application is very similar to that described above for use with worktrousers and using a similar loop delivery mechanism, with the difference that only the bottom of the belt loop need to be inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel, the top of the belt loop is left free for bartack attachment afterwards. To achieve the insertion of only the bottom end of the belt loops, the metered, cut, and quality-passed loops would be inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel, face down, from the leg side of the waistband and sewn trapped between the two. The loop positioning is again performed automatically on-the-run by the control computer, with the positions varied where required to align with trouser features such as seams, darts, and pockets.

Beyond the applications as described by way of example to the waistbanding of trousers, the invention is applicable to other similar tasks where articles must be placed in a determinate manner onto another body, and where the positions of the said articles may need to be varied to match to features on that said body. The invention provides means for storage and recall of a large number of data points representing the positions of belt loops for a large number of trouser styles and sizes, and in addition, the coding of which loops must be positioned by measurement and which ones by sensors. It also provides means for the metering, cutting, and fault-sensing of the belt loop, and for its delivery and insertion for assembly and sewing to the body of the trouser.

Hereinafter, a preferred embodiment will be described in detail by way of example, of the concept of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

A preferred embodiment of the invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective sketch of the waistband and belt loop construction typical of workwear.

Figure 2 is a perspective sketch of the outer and inner waistband folders attached to a sewing head, normally used for the contruction of the waistband and belt loops shown in Figure 1. Figure 3 shows a perspective sketch of the mechanism preferred for the insertion and folding of the belt loop around the outer waistband.

Figure 4 shows the belt loop in various stages of folding as it travels through the outer waistband folder.

Figure 5 shows a diagram of a preferred loop metering, cutting, and delivery system.

Figure 6 shows the seam sensor position in relation to the belt loop arresting finger position.

DESCRI PTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

For the particular embodiment for the assembly of workwear trouser to be decribed hereinafter, Figures 1 & 2 shows the construction of the trouser and the folders used in the manual process. The description of the trouser elements and the parts of the machinery used has already been described in the Background to the Invention.

This embodiment of the invention automatically meters, cuts, fault-senses, and delivers the belt loop to an insertion mechanism that folds the loop around the outer waistband, all on-the-move, and performs this operation positioning the requisite number of belt loops as defined by the trouser style and size, and varies these belt loop positions where required for match to some trouser feature.

Fig 3 shows how the belt loops are inserted onto the top waistband, and as the waistband is hemmed, the loops are folded. The belt loop, 1 1 , is delivered on top of the moving outer waistband 12 through the chute 13, a low surface friction clamp plate 14 with arresting fingers 15, is activated to clamp the delivered belt loop 1 1 to the top surface of the outer waistband 12. This clamping action makes the belt loop 1 1 adhere to the outer waistband 12 and move forward with it until it is arrested by the fingers 15; the arresting action also straightens the belt loop 1 1 , if it happens to be delivered out of alignment. When the belt loop 1 1 is held under the arresting fingers 15, its is also under the pressure plate 16, so that when the clamp plate 14 and arresting fingers 15 are lifted, the belt loop 1 1 continues its movement in contact with the outer waistband 12, through the remainder of the folder 17, becoming folded along with the outer waistband in the process. When the waistband and belt loop exits the folder 17, it enters immediately under the sewing foot, of the sewing machine. Fig 4 shows the stages of folding experienced by the belt loop 1 1 as it leaves the arresting fingers 15 and proceeds through the waistband folder 17 .

Fig 5 shows a preferred belt loop metering , cutting, and delivery system. Belt loop strips in a continous roll 18 ( or

"Z" folded in a box ) is indexed at a fixed and adjustable pitch off the roll through a guide rail 19, by a ratchet type indexer pawl 20 ( alternatively an indexing wheel driven and controlled by the various known means can be employed). The indexing pawl 20 engages with the belt loop strip 21 by pins 22, the pawl which is attached to a reciprocating means, 23, is designed to engage the belt loop strip 21 only in the forward direction. To detect, both the lack of belt loop thickness or any overthickness, as found on a lapped join, the belt loop strip 21 is fed in between a pair of counteracting wheels 24 & 25; where one of the wheels, 25, is linked by a magnifying lever 26 to a movement sensor means 27, such as a microswitch. If a faulty belt loop is detected, the computer controller will discard that loop and feed and cut another. Beyond the fault sensor, the belt loop strip 21 is fed into a cutting means, such as a powered scissors 28 for cutting to length after positioning over the outer waistband strip 29. The clamp plate and arresting fingers means described beforehand is shown as part 30. Operationally the sequence is as follows. The loop metering pawl 20 feeds a fixed but adjustable loop length, which passes between the join detector wheels 24, 25 and

through the cutter 28, out into position over the top waistband strip 29 and is cut. The loop feeder clamp 30 comes down to press the cut loop 31 onto the moving top waistband strip 29. The timing of the lifting of the loop feeder clamp 30 is determined by the distance the waistband has moved as metered by stitch count or a rotary encoder running in contact with the outer waistband strip.

The next loop is fed to await its released into the next loop position as determined by the control computer.

To initiate the first loop, the operator signals to the control computer by pressing a reset button at a salient position on the trouser panel, such as the fly leading edge position. Once the computer knows this reference position the positions of all the belt loops can be determined.

Where a belt loop is to be positioned to a feature such as a seam on the trouser, the dead reckoned position is over riden by an input from a seam sensor means, such as a sensor that will sense the presence of a seam by its multiple thickness of fabric. Fig 6 shows the position of the seam sensor 32 relative to the position of the arresting fingers 33. The seam sensor must be no closer to the sewing needle than the arc of the arresting fingers 33, so that as soon as the seam sensor 32 detects a seam, it signals the arresting fingers 33 to immediately release the belt loop, 34

The concept has been described by way of example using specific mechanical elements, of course, each of these functions can be performed in many alternative ways by those skilled in the art.

Claims

THE CLAIMS DEFINING THE INVENTION ARE AS FOLLOWS

1. A device for the semi-automatic or automatic metering, cutting, fault detection, and placement and sewing of belt loops on-the-move, into correct positions as stored in a control computer program, varied by matching to garment features, as the waist band is sewn onto a garment, comprising means to meter and cut a fixed but adjustable loop length, means to detect less or more than the optimum belt loop thickness, means to eject the faulty loops, means to deliver the loop to the correct position on the waistband on-the-move as determined by data stored in the control means, and means to cause a variation to the theoretical loop position where required, in order to match the loop to some feature on the garment which is detected by a sensor means.

2. A device for the semi-automatic or automatic metering, cutting, fault detection, and placement and sewing of belt loops onto the waistband of garments where the belt loop is bartacked to the exterior of the waistband, comprising means to index the trouser waistband to defined positions for attachment of the belt loops, which are fed by means that meter, cut, fault-detect and fold/deliver the belt loop to the bar tacking position, and which can vary the theoretical position to match the loop to some feature of the garment which is detected by sensor means, and means whereby the indexing of the trouser waistband is controlled by sensors so that the transverse positioning of the belt loop is correct.

3. The apparatus of Claim 1 , wherein the belt when metered, cut, fault sensed and delivered , is held in a position of readiness to be inserted into the trouser banding assembly upon a control signal, by means where the waiting belt loop is physically held out of contact with the moving waistband, or lightly in contact with the waistband so that relative slippage occurs, and then upon the signal to release the belt loop to do so by means utilising the relatively high friction coefficient between the belt loop and the waistband, or by means that will transport the belt loop to the sewing needle, such as under a synchronized timing belt or by a belt loop gripping and delivery mechanism as noe found on existing semi automatic jeans belt loop bartackers.

4. The apparatus of Claims 1 & 3, wherein the belt loop folding means comprises a low surface friction clamp plate with arresting fingers, which when actuated, presses the fed belt loop onto the moving waistband causing the belt loop to flow with the waistband until stopped and straightened against the arresting fingers, while transferring to beneath another pressure plate attached to the outer waistband hemming folder, such that when the first clamp plate is lifted, the belt loop flows into the hemming folder in intimate contact with the waist band such that the belt loop folds as one with the waistband before entering under the sewing machine foot.

5. The apparatus in Claim 4, whereby the timing of the release of the belt loop to move with the waistband is determined by its positioning on the waistband as referenced to a start point on the trouser, and where the release positions for each style and size of garment is stored or calculated by the control computer, and where the required data is recalled by the operator by selecting the garment style and size by the control console.

6. The apparatus in Claim 5, in which the theoretical positions of the belt loops can be varied by sensor means which can detect garment features such as seams, darts, or pockets, and re-position the belt loops accordingly in some position relative to the garment feature.

7. The apparatus in Claims 6 wherein the belt loop is fed from the trouser leg side of the waistband, to effect the variant of the invention for the positioning and attachment of only the bottom of the belt loop inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panels, by means similar to that outlined in Claim 4, except that the face down belt loop is awaiting release to the trouser assembly over the moving trouser panel with one end extending under the outer waistband footprint, rather than over the top of the moving outer waistband, such that after sewing, the belt loop is in position by metering or sensor, and is trapped only at its bottom end with its top end hanging free.