Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form

Definitions

• the present invention relates to an improved process for the treatment of keratinous fibres, preferably human keratinous fibres and especially hair, for the purpose of obtaining a non-permanent reshaping and/or restoration of shape of the fibres, especially in the form of a setting.
• the process of the invention is usable in the field of professional hairdressing, beauty and cosmetic salons, and the like. It relates still more specifically to a process employing water vapour and special treatment substances.
• the term "setting” is known to denote the simple operation which consists of giving the hair an non-permanent and temporary set (generally wavy, such as ringlets, curls and the like) which vanishes instantaneously when the hair is wetted again, especially when the latter is subjected to the action of washing with water or with shampoos.
• the "setting” process differs from a so-called permanent reshaping operation, during which genuine chemical treatments and/or conversions (reduction/oxidation) have to be carried out on the keratinous fibres, the final shape imposed on the hair becoming no longer sensitive (or remaining only very Slightly sensitive) to the above-mentioned external agents.
• the most common technique for carrying out setting (or non-permanent reshaping) of hair consists in first placing previously wetted or still wet hair under tension (with traditional supports of the setting curler or roller type, and the like), in then drying the hair thus placed under tension under a salon hair dryer heating to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C. for a time which can vary from 20 to 60 minutes depending on the bulk of the hair to be dried, in thereafter removing the means for placing under tension used above from the hair thus dried, and lastly in putting the finishing touches to the hair with a comb in order to obtain the hairstyle with the desired final shape.
• Another, less common, process consists of using the old so-called curling tongs or styling tongs technique (lock of wet hair coiled around a metal core and taken by the latter to more than 100° C. for at least 20 seconds); this latter technique is little used nowadays by professional hairdressers, since it achieves results which are considered on the whole to be unsatisfactory and uneven owing to the fact, in particular, that the hair is subjected to widely differing temperatures according to whether it is in actual contact with the heating core or, on the contrary, some distance away from the latter.
• the aim of the present invention is, in particular, to solve the above problems.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a new treatment process suitable for the non-permanent reshaping of keratinous fibres, preferably human keratinous fibres, and especially hair, which makes it possible to obtain curling of high quality.
• Another object of the present invention is to provide a process as above which enables, in addition, this curling to be preserved on a long-lasting basis (retention).
• Yet another object of the invention is to provide a process as above that makes it possible to obtain keratinous fibres which are reshaped non-permanently while displaying exceptional cosmetic properties of softness and smoothness.
• the present invention thus provides a new process suitable for the non-permanent reshaping and/or restoration of shape of keratinous fibres, preferably human keratinous fibres, and especially hair.
• This process comprises the steps of (a) contacting said fibres, said fibres being maintained under mechanical tension (rollers, curlers or the like) and having had applied thereto a composition containing at least one oil, with a gas containing water vapour, said gas having a temperature of at least 75° C., for a time not exceeding 2 minutes to non-permanently reshape said fibres, (b) cooling said fibres after said contacting step, and (c) removing the mechanical tension which was applied to said fibres.
• the process according to the invention is preferably applicable to any human keratinous substance in general, in particular eyelashes, moustaches, and hairs generally, as well as to non-human keratinous fibres, for example, the hair of show dogs.
• the gas used in the process of the present invention preferably contains at least 1% by volume of water vapour.
• the carrier gas can contain solvent vapour, as well as gases such as oxygen or nitrogen, mixtures of gases such as air or alternatively other vapourizable compounds.
• solvents which can advantageously be used for the production of vapour water/solvent mixtures
• cosmetically acceptable organic solvents such as, for example, alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol and its monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and also alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
• alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol
• glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol and its monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and also alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.
• the gas preferably consists either exclusively or chiefly of water vapour, or of a mixture of water and air.
• the temperature of the gas is preferably above or equal to 85° C., and more preferably ranges from 85° C. to 150° C., approximately. The temperature can also range from 75° C. to less than 100° C.
• the time of contact between the hot treatment gas and the fibre should be brief, and should preferably not exceed 2 minutes.
• the gas is brought into contact with the fibre for a time ranging from 0.01 second to 30 seconds, more preferably from 1 to 20 seconds, and still more preferably from 1 to 10 seconds.
• the application of the gas may be repeated several times on the same fibre, each operation being carried out on the basis of a time as stated above.
• a preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention consists in first applying to the hair a composition consisting partly or completely of oil, it being possible for this application to be carried out before, during or after the customary operation of placing the locks of hair under tension in a shape corresponding to the final shape desired for these latter, e.g., ringlets.
• This operation may be carried out by any suitable means known per se, in particular a mechanical means, for maintaining hair under tension, such as, for example, tubular bodies, rollers, curlers and the like.
• the locks thus impregnated with oil are then subjected briefly to the action of water vapour according to the conditions mentioned above, and are then cooled, preferably rapidly, for example by passing a stream of air at room temperature over or through them and/or by drawing a stream of ambient air through the coiled locks.
• the mechanical means which maintained the locks under tension and in the desired shape throughout the whole treatment is removed from the hair, resulting in locks or a head of hair displaying, for example, attractive, even and soft ringlets.
• the hair is put under mechanical tension as described above and a composition consisting partly or completely of oil is applied to the hair simultaneously with a gas containing water vapour, as described above.
• the locks of hair thus treated are then cooled, preferably rapidly, by a method as set forth above, and finally, the mechanical means which maintained the locks under tension and in the desired shape throughout the whole treatment is removed from the hair, resulting here also in locks or a head of hair displaying, for example, attractive, even and soft ringlets.
• a hot gas comprising water vapour can be done using any apparatus known per se and designed for this purpose.
• an apparatus such as the one described in French Patent Application FR-A-2,273,492, and in U.S. Pat. No. 4,166,473, the disclosures of which were incorporated by reference above, or any other equivalent apparatus, which is, in effect, particularly suitable in the present case as it provides steady and homogeneous selective treatment of the fibres without risk of overheating and with integrated post-treatment cooling.
• oil is understood here to mean any fat which is liquid at room temperature and insoluble in water and which has hydrophobic character, having a mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin. Further, as defined herein, oil does not include silicone oil.
• isoparaffins such as, for example, those corresponding to the formula: ##STR1## where n ranges from 2 to 16. These isoparaffins may be used alone or mixed with other isoparaffins of higher molecular weights, especially those of the formula above and for which n is greater than or equal to 18, and preferably ranges from 18 to 40.
• esters such as ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanoate,
• fatty acids and triglycerides of fatty acids such as triglycerides of octanoic and decanoic acids, cetyl ricinoleate, stearyl octanoate, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid,
• fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol
• fluorinated oils such as perfluoro polyethers and the fluorohydrocarbon oils described, in particular, in Patent Application WO 93/11103, the entire disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference,
• hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, liquid paraffin (such as that sold under the name MARCOL 82 by the company ESSO), paraffin oils and isohexadecane may be mentioned in particular.
• Liquid paraffin and paraffin oils can be the same oils, but their viscosities may be different.
• oils Among animal oils, squalane and whale, seal, menhaden, halibut-liver, cod-liver, tuna, tallow, ox, horse, sheep, mink, turtle and otter oils may be mentioned in particular.
• oils of vegetable origin almond, groundnut, wheat-germ, linseed, apricot-kernel, nut, palm, pistachio, sesame, poppy-seed, pine, castor, soya-bean, avocado, safflower, coconut, hazelnut, olive, grape-pip, blackcurrent-pip, sunflower, rapeseed, cade, maize-germ, peach-kernel, coffee, jojoba, argan, evening-primrose, borage, cotton-seed, shea, shorea and macadamia oils and essential oils may be mentioned as examples.
• Preferred oils according to the invention are mineral oils, especially liquid paraffin (paraffin oil), and synthetic oils, especially isoparaffins.
• the oils may be employed on their own, but it is preferable to use compositions containing such oils in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
• the oils can thus be either solubilized or made into dispersions or (micro)emulsions in aqueous media or organic media or alternatively aqueous-organic media.
• suitable organic solvents monohydric alcohols or polyols (ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, glycols), acetone, polyol ethers, hydrocarbons, esters, dimethoxymethane or alternatively volatile silicones may be mentioned in particular.
• the content of oil(s) in the compositions can vary within very wide limits, and can range, for example, from 0.01% to 50%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, by weight relative to the whole of the composition.
• compositions can take any form customarily used in the field of hair-care compositions for topical use, such as, for example, more or less thickened or gelled liquid, cream, mousse, lotion, gel, paste, emulsion, aerosol or any other suitable form.
• the oil-based compositions can thus, and generally speaking, contain all the various traditional additives which are used in the field of the preparation of hair-care compositions for topical use, and can be chosen, for example, from UV screening agents, thickening agents, penetrating agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, buffers, surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants such as alkyl polyglycosides, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, solubilizing agents, emollients, colorants, perfumes and preservatives.
• the oil-based compositions used in the context of the present invention which are hence intended for application to hair, preferably have a pH ranging from 3 to 11. If necessary, this pH may be adjusted to the desired value by adding, as appropriate, either standard alkalinizing agents or standard acidifying agents which are known to be cosmetically acceptable.
• This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml doses per spraying.
• the initial length L 0 (in cm) of the lock of hair was first measured before the vapour treatment (length measured between the roots and the ends on the vertically suspended lock); in the same way, the length L 1 of this same lock was measured immediately after the treatment had ended; and lastly the length L 2 of this lock was measured 48 hours after the treatment.
• This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml doses per spraying.
• This composition was packaged in a pump bottle dispensing 0.15 ml doses per spraying.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Thermal Sciences (AREA)
• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Peptides Or Proteins (AREA)
• Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
• Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=9454248

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (12)

Cited By (11)

Families Citing this family (4)

Citations (10)

• 1993
  • 1993-12-22 FR FR9315477A patent/FR2713920B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1994
  • 1994-11-07 ES ES94402515T patent/ES2134914T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1994-11-07 EP EP94402515A patent/EP0659395B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1994-11-07 AT AT94402515T patent/ATE180964T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1994-11-07 DE DE69418980T patent/DE69418980T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1994-12-12 CA CA002137900A patent/CA2137900C/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1994-12-16 US US08/357,030 patent/US5551453A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1994-12-20 PL PL94306406A patent/PL306406A1/xx unknown
  • 1994-12-20 BR BR9405068A patent/BR9405068A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1994-12-21 JP JP6318874A patent/JP2549993B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1994-12-21 RU RU94044526/14A patent/RU94044526A/ru unknown
  • 1994-12-22 HU HU9403741A patent/HUT71389A/hu unknown

Patent Citations (12)

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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