US3191601A - Foundation garment - Google Patents

Description

June 29, 1965 c. K. WANISH 3,

FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed July 1, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVEN TOR.

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3,191,601 FOUNDATION GARMENT Charles K. Wanish, Cortland, N.Y., assignor to Cortland Corset Company, Inc., Cortland, N.Y., a corporation of New York Filed July 1, 1963, Ser. No. 291,818 2 Claims. (Cl. 128-436) This invention relates generally to foundation garments and more particularly to a new and useful improvement in a corset.

A principal object of the present invention is to provide a corset which will permit the natural movements of the body as in sitting, walking, stooping, bending over, etc, without disturbing or changing the position of the garment. With corsets as heretofore constructed, there was a tendency for the back and front to slip as the body assumed various attitudes as sitting or stooping, and at the same time there would be a pulling strain due to elongation of the body and a pushing strain due to shortening, with the result that upon assuming another position, the friction of the body would cause the corset to shift from its previous position. There was also a tendency with these corsets when bending over or sitting, for the upper back edge to draw away and protrude from the body. This was uncomfortable and unsightly, particularly where the wrinkles and protrusions of the shifted corset might show through a tight-fitting or thin gown. In order to readjust the corset it was necessary for the wearer to pull and twist it into its proper position.

It is proposed in the present invention to provide a garment having upper and lower parts, preferably overlapped for telescoping movement with respect to each other, and which will cling independently to upper and lower parts of the body so that the natural elongation and shortening of the body in assuming various postures shifts the corset parts relatively to each other, but will not cause them to shift on the body or to protrude so that the wearer may comfortably assume any natural attitude, without strain on or resistance from the garment, and the same will at all times be in its properly disposed position.

It has been found that the sides of the body in the region of the waistline have a relatively small area which may be referred to as a neutral axis point or sphere which remains in a fixed relation while other parts of the body move with respect to it.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a garment in which the front and back relatively movable portions are directly connected and movable with respect to a common vertical line at each side coinciding with this neutral axis point or sphere, to the end that in assuming different postures the relatively movable upper and lower parts of the front and back sections will have free telescoping movement relatively to said neutral spheres without the restriction of intervening non-telescoping portions.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment of this character including a body-surrounding brassiere section comprising the upper parts of the front and back portions, and which constitutes a continuous supporting band about the upper part of the body in which the front and back portions have complementary pivotal movement about the neutral axis points or sphehes at the sides of the body, so that in assuming a sitting or bending-over position the telescopic action of the back portion will be relatively unrestricted and assisted by the action of the front portion, while at the same time the front portion will have free telescoping action without crowding or compressional strains upon the front portions of the body, this being brought about by the structure wherein the telescoping parts of both the front and back portions are freely 3,191,601 Patented June 29, 1965 ice movable with respect to each other from the same vertical line of the neutral axis point or sphere.

Still another object is to provide a garment in which the lower part of the front portion will provide a complete and substantial support for the abdomen and diaphragm without crowding of compressive pressures. It is a further object to provide a garment which will permit free movement of the body between various postures Without appreciable wrinkling or twisting of any portions of the garment, the relative movement of the body with respect to the garment resulting from lengthening or shortening of parts of the back and front lines of the body in assuming different postures being permitted to take place with a free sliding action, due to the fact that all parts of the garment may swing freely in a vertical direction, with respect to the common vertical lines of the neutral axis points to which all of the relatively movable parts are attached.

For further comprehension of the invention, and of the objects and advantages thereof, reference will be had to the following description and accompanying drawings, and to the appended claims in which the various novel features of the invention are more particularly set forth.

In the accompanying drawings forming a material part of this disclosure:

' FIG. 1 is a front elevational view of a corset embodying one form of my invention, shown worn by a person. standing erect.

' FIG. 2 is a rear perspective view of the corset shown worn by a person standing erect.

FIG. 3 is a rear perspective view of the corset shown in FIG. 1, parts being broken away.

FIG. 4 is a view similar to FIG. 2 but showing the person in stooped-over position.

FIG. 5 is a rear perspective view of the top of the garment, parts being shown broken away.

FIG. 6 is a view similar to 'FIG. 2 but showing a garment embodying a modified form of the inventionbeing worn.

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary front elevational view of the garment shown in FIG. 6.

FIG. 8 is a front elevational view of a garment embodying another modified form of the invention being shown worn.

FIG. 9 is a view similar to FIG. 2 showing the garment of FIG. 8 being Worn.

Referring particularly to FIGS. 1 to 4 of the drawings, a garment foundation of a corset type embodying one form of the invention is illustrated and designated generally by the reference numeral 10. The garment 10 comprises a back section having a lower back part 12 and an upper back part 14. The back part 14 overlaps at its lower edge portion the upper edge portion of the lower back part 12, the side edges of the upper and lower back parts 12 and 14 being disposed along substantially vertically continuous lines 18, 18 at each side, and which extend from the top to the bottom of the garment. These vertical lines intersect the axis of the body engaging parts of the garment which when worn overlie the areas of the body at each side in the region of the waistline, and toward the back, which may be termed neutral axis points, and which constitute areas or spheres about which the other parts of the body move as a center in assuming different postures. The ends of the overlapped edges of the back sections 12 and 14 where thel attach to the lines 18, 18 are within these axis areas or spheres.

Elastic side portions 20, 20, which are stretchable both vertically and laterally, are secured at their rearward edges to the lines 18, 18 and extend at their lower ends to the bottom of the lower back part 12. To the forward edges of the portions 20, 20 there are secured along seams 18, 18 the vertical side edges of the lower front portion 24.

The upper edge 26 of the lower front portion 24 continues in an upwardly curving relationship from the upper edges of the elastic side portions 211, 21 and the lower edge 30 of the lower front portion 24 is continued in upwardly curved relation from the lower edges of the elastic side portions 2a to the bottom end of the center panel 31 of the front portion 24. The portion 24 which constitutes the main part of the front of the garment is of such length :as to overlie the abdomen and diaphragm of the wearer, and the side portions 2t 20 which are vertically coextensive with this portion 24 constitute composite end or side parts thereof.

There are also secured to the lines 18, 18, the side edges of the upper brassiere portion fite, the upper edge of this portion continuing in upwardly curved relation from the upper edge of the upper back part 14, and the lower edge being connected to the lines 18, 18 at points intermediate the upper edge of the lower back part 12, and the lower edge of the upper back portion 14 where these edges connect to the lines 18, 1S, and which points are also within the neutral axis areas or spheres.

The lower part of the brassiere portion 35 overlaps the upper part of the main front portion 24 and the side portions 20, 20 in overlying relation, and the concave curvature of the lower edge of the brassiere portion is such that pulling strains from the ends will tend to draw the overlapping portion of the brassiere section into close conforming relation with the lower main front portion 24.

The back section of the garment, with which the present invention is concerned, comprises generally the lower part 12 and the upper part 14. The lower back part 12 is preferably constructed of a center panel 411 and two side panels 42 and 44 of nonelastic material, stitched together along vertical seams 16, 4-6, preferably substantially midway the back center line of the garment and the side edges of the back part 12, these seams being stiffened substant-ially throughout their lengths by stays 48 preferably secured in pairs to the inner side of the seams by covering ta es.

The upper back part 14- consists of a panel 52 of nonelastic material. The side edges of the panel extend from the upper edge of the garment to points along the seam lines 18 intermediate the upper and lower edges of th back part 14. A triangular horizontally elastic gusset insert 53 is provided at the upper edge of the panel 52 so that lateral yieldability is imparted to the upper part 14 of the garment.

The lower edge of the panel 52 extends for a short distance at each side of the center of the lower end of the panel 52 and constitutes an intermediate inelastic portion of the lower upwardly arched edge 55 of the back part 14, and is then angularly extended as at 57 to the lower ends of the side edges. Stays 6t 61) are secured across the panel 52. Elastic panels 112, 62 of generally triangular shape, complete the upper back part, their upper angular edges being secured to the angular lower edge portions of the panel 52, their straight side edges being secured along the seam lines 18, 18 to the back edges of the side sections as, and their lower concavely arched edges constituting elastic portions of the arched lower edge of the back part at each side of the intermediate nonelastic portion formed by the lower edge portion of the panel 52. It will be seen from FIG. 2 that the lower arched edge of the upper back part 14 is below the waistline indicated by the line W and above the hip line indicated by the line H, its anchored ends being slightly above the hip line, and said lower edge being free of attachment to the other parts of the garment between its anchored ends.

The main lower front portion 24 is preferably formed of three vertically arranged panels of nonelastic material, there being a center panel 64, and two side panels 66 and 68, the center and side panels being secured together along vertically extending seams '70 and 72. In the center of the center panel 64, there is an opening '74 extending from a point adjacent the bottom end of the panel to the top end of the panel. The opening is provided with a zipper type fastening device 76, this opening also being preferably provided with hooks '78 and eyes 81) at the respective sides, for preliminarily closing the opening prior to operation of the zipper fastening device. A pair of gussets 82, 82 is interposed between the bottom of the center panel 64 and the bottoms of the side panels 66 and 68.

The upper brassiere portion 36 comprises a central panel .84 and side panels 86 and 88, the side panel 88 being secured to the center panel 84 along taped seams 911. The upper edges of panels 86 and 88 are arcuately formed and have cup formations 92, 92. Lace panels 94, M are secured above the cup formations by stitching. The bras siere portion may be opened by unfastening the hook and eye fastenings.

Shoulder straps as are connected between the upper back part 14 and the lacepanels 94, 94 of the brassiere portions, and hose supporters 98 are secured to the lower edge of the garment.

additional lateral stretchability to the upperback part 14.

Referring now to the foundation garment 10 shown in F163. 8 and 9, this garment is in the form of a girdle, and comprises a front section consisting of a central panel 101 of nonelastic material. The side edges of the front sec- 1 tion are continuous and the forward edges of horizontal elastic front sections 102, 102 are secured thereto along seam lines 104*, 1114, the rearward edges of the sections 1G2, 102 being secured along seam lines 106, 106 to the back section 1118 of the garment. The central panel 101) is i provided with an elastic gusset 1119 centrally thereof at its bottom end. The central panel is also provided with an opening 111 extending downwardly from its upper edge to a point remote from the bottom edge. The opening is provided along its edges with the respective cooperative parts of a zipper fastener 112.

The back section 108 of the garment, with which the present invention is particularly concerned, comprises generally a lower part 114, and an upper part 116 overlapping at its lower portion the upper portion of the lower part 114. The overlapping parts 114, 116 are secured at their side edges along the seam lines 106, 106 to the hori zontally elastic sections 102, 102, and the upper portions of these seams are given vertical stability by means of staps 118.

The upper back part 116 consists of a panel of nonelastic material. The side edges of the panel 120 extend from the upper edge of the garment to points along the seam lines 10s, 1% intermediate the upper and lower edges of the back part 116. A triangular horizontally elastic gusset insert 119 is provided at the upper edge of of the center panel 120 so that lateral yieldability is imparted to the upper part 116 of the garment. The lower edges of the panel 120 extend for a short distance at each side of the center of the lower end of the panel 120 and constitute an intermediate inelastic portion of the lower upwardly arched edge 122 of the back part 116, and are then angularly extended as at 124 to the lower ends of the side edges. Stays 125, 125 are secured across the panel 120. Elastic panels 126, 126 of generally triangular shape, complete the upper back part, their upper angular edges being secured to the angular lower edge portions of the panel 12%, their straight side edges being secured along the seam lines 1%, 1% to the back edges of the sections 1112, 102, and their lower concavely arched edges constituting elastic portions of the arched lower edge of the back part at each side of the intermediate horizontal nonelastic portion formed by the lower edge portion of the panel 120.

It will be seen from FIG. 9 that the lower arched edge of the upper back part 116 is substantially below the waistline indicated by the line W and above the hip line indicated by the line H, its anchored ends are at or in proximity to the hip line, said lower edge is free of attachment to the other parts of the garment between its anchored ends.

The lower back part 114 consists of a center panel portion 132 extending the full length of the lower back part and having side edges secured along seam lines 134, 134 to intermediate panels 136, 136, extending parallel to center panel portion 132, the full length of the lower back part.

While I have illustrated and described the preferred embodiments of my invention, it is to be understood that I do not limit myself to the precise constructions herein disclosed and that various changes and modifications may be made within the scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims. 7

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. A foundation garment'comprising front and side sections, and a back section secured at its side edges to said side sections along substantially vertical side seams arranged to overlie the body of the wearer at each side along lines extending from points substantially above the waistline to points substantially below the hip line, said back section comprising upper and lower parts telescopically overlapped in the region of the waistline with the lower portion of said upper part slidably overlying the upper portion of said lower part, said upper part adapted to engage the body above the hip line and at the waistline and having its lower edge free of attach ment between its ends, said ends being anchored to said seam lines at points substantially coincident to the hip line with the lower edge midway its ends spaced a substantial distance above the waistline, said upper part having a central elastic panel and a nonelastic panel on each side thereof, said central panel extending from the top edge to the bottom edge of the upper part, whereby said upper part is adapted to lengthen as relative telescopic expansion movement takes I place between said upper and lower parts and is adapted to shorten as relative telescopic contraction movement takes place between said upper and lower parts.

2. In a foundation garment, comprising front and side sections, and a back section secured at its side edges to said side sections along substantially vertical side seams arranged to overlie the body of the wearer at each side along lines extending from points substantially above the waistline to points substantially below the hip line, said back section comprising upper and lower parts, each having upper and lower edges and a pair of side edges, said upper and lower parts being telescopically overlapped in the region of the waistline with the lower portion of said upper part slidably overlying the upper portion of said lower part, said upper part adapted to engage the body above the hip line and having its lower edge free of attachment between its ends, said ends being anchored to said seam lines at points substantially coincident to the hip line with the lower edge midway its ends spaced a substantial distance above the waistline, said lower part adapted to engage the back and hips below the waistline; the improvement wherein said upper part comprises an elastic central panel, a nonelastic panel extending between the side seams and said central panel, the upper edges of said panels, with its upper edge defining the upper edge of said upper part, side edges extending downwardly from the respective ends of said upper edge and partially defining the side edges of said upper part, and central lower edge portions partially defining the lower edge of said upper part, and angularly disposed lower edge portions extending from the respective ends of said centrally disposed lower edge portion to the respective lower ends of said side edges, a pair of elastic triangular-shaped panels having angular upper edges respectively coextensive with and secured to said angular lower edge portions of said nonelastic panel, side edges extending downwardly from the respective lower ends of said side edges of said nonelastic panels and defining therewith the side edges of said upper part.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,836,382 12/31 Mead l28436 2,131,707 9/38 Leonard 128436 2,160,078 5/39 Mayer 128444 2,366,026 12/44 Hawes 128436 2,569,379 9/51 Hollar 128440 2,861,575 11/58 Hollar 128436 ADELE M. EAGER, Primary Exnm'z'ner.

Claims (1)

1. A FOUNDATION GARMENT COMPRISING FRONT AND SIDE SECTIONS, AND A BACK SECTION SECURED AT ITS SIDE EDGES TO SAID SIDE SECTION ALONG SUBSTANTIALLY VERTICAL SIDE SEAMS ARRANGED TO OVERLIE THE BODY OF THE WEARER AT EACH SIDE ALONG LINES EXTENDING FROM POINTS SUBSTANTIALLY ABOVE THE WAISTLINE TO POINTS SUBSTANTIALLY BELOW THE HIP LINE, SAID BACK, SECTION COMPRISING UPPER AND LOWER PARTS TELESCOPICALLY OVERLAPPED IN THE REGION OF THE WAISTLINE WITH THE LOWER PORTION OF SAID UPPER PART SLIDABLY OVERLING THE UPPER PORTION OF SAID LOWER PART, SAID UPPER PART ADAPTED TO ENGAGE THE BODY ABOVE THE HIP LINE AND AT THE WAISTLINE AND HAVING ITS LOWER EDGE FREE OF ATTACHMENT BETWEEN ITS ENDS, SAID ENDS BEING ANCHORED TO SAID SEAM LINES AT POINTS SUBSTANTIALLY COINCIDENT TO THE HIP LINE WITH THE LOWER EDGE MIDWAY ITS, ENDS SPACED A SUBSTANTIAL DISTANCE ABOVE THE WAISTLINE, SAID UPPER PART HAVING A CENTRAL ELASTIC PANEL AND A NONELASTIC PANEL ON EACH SIDE THEREOF, SAID CENTRAL PANEL EXTENDING FROM THE TOP EDGE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE UPPER PART, WHEREBY SAID UPPER PART IS ADAPTED TO LENGTHEN AS RELATIVE TELESCOPIC EXPANSION MOVEMENT TAKES PLACE BETWEEN SAID UPPER AND LOWER PARTS AND IS ADAPTED TO SHORTEN AS RELATIVE TELESCOPIC CONTRACTION MOVEMENT TAKES PLACE BETWEEN SAID UPPER AND LOWER PARTS.

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